During lockdown, I was kindly delivered this interesting wine by hand and popped it in the fridge. But as the Covid pandemic took grip, I forgot to crack this bottle until more recently.

Made from a north-east facing trellised vineyard at 300 metres altitude planted in Bokkeveld shale with a high clay content in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, this wine piqued my interest immediately as I’d already tasted Berene Saul’s delicious 2019 Ridge Chardonnay that had reminded me so much of a steely Chablis 1er Cru expression.

The Onskuld Chardonnay was whole bunch pressed with only the free run juice portion used. After settling, the must was allowed to naturally ferment in 300 litre and 225 litre French oak barrels, 30% of which were new. The wine was matured on its fine lees for 10 months prior to bottling unfiltered.

Draaiboek Wines Onskuld Chardonnay 2019, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

This is classic Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge cool climate Chardonnay fruit that bristles with a crystalline steeliness more reminiscent of classy cool climate Chablis. The aromatics are lean and stony, flushed with sinuous tones of white citrus, lime peel pith, dried herbs and delicate nutty, leesy, biscuit notes. The palate is linear and taut with a glassy pure acidity, wet river pebble liquid minerality and a spicy, zesty, slightly phenolic finish of green melons, crunchy Granny Smith apples and greengage plums. A fabulous old world leaning expression of Chardonnay that is sure to find an instant following. Drink now or cellar for 3 to 8 years. (1,300 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

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