The 2018 vintage in the Western Cape was certainly marked by one of the worst droughts on record and presented some significant challenges for all vine growers and winemakers. With water resources at an all time low and strict rationing in effect, reduced water availability for irrigation led to reduced vine vigour and reduced canopy sizes.
Some unseasonable rains and low temperatures in October and November disrupted fruit set and further reduced the number and size of berries on grape clusters. For many wineries, yields ended up being around -25% lower than the fairly generous 2017 crop, however, quality was high overall with intense inky colours, piercing concentration and striking fruit richness across cultivars.
Van Biljon Cinq Cape Bordeaux Blend 2018, WO Stellenbsoch, 14.5% Abv.
2.3g/l RS | 5.60g/l TA | 3.59pH
Always small and always boutique, this singular Cape Bordeaux blend Cinq from Van Biljon has always been about top quality as well as expressing the premium terroir of the Polkadraai Hills in Stellenbosch. The 2018 is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 9% Malbec, all aged in French oak barrels for 18 months after fermentation. Following on from a very influential, high flying 2017 vintage, the challenge for winemaker Chris Keet and the Van Biljon team was always going to be about strict grape selection to allow the very best fruit to enter the production process. 2018 was a more challenging year but with most premium examples on the market already, the vintage has slowly but surely carved out its own niche among connoisseurs and consumers, with wines of generosity, intensity, acid structure, but also elegance and finesse that can be approached over the short to medium term. This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine is initially quite savoury, dark and broody on opening but within a short amount of time, starts to reveal lifted perfumed notes of earthy red flowers, violets, and pressed rose petals together with pure black currant, black plum and mulberry hints. There is that unmistakable earthy, peaty note of freshly tilled damp earth that is so typical of Stellenbosch Bordeaux blends, which lends a familiar, comforting charm. On the palate, the expression is one of elegance, sleek focus and freshness, with a soft seductive savoury mineral tannin vein, earthy red and black currant fruits, but also a silky finesse undoubtedly encouraged by the high Cabernet Franc component. This is a delightful expression that may well be more approachable now than either of the block buster 2015 or 2017 Cinq editions but is certainly a wine that will comfortably slumber and mature with benefit for another 10+ years in your cellar.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Van Biljon wines are imported into the UK by Woodwinters UK and retail for circa £48 per bottle from fine wine merchants.
