Holden Manz is often described as “the hedonistic heart of Franschhoek.” Lying in the top corner of the Franschhoek Valley, Holden Manz Wine Estate continues to establish itself as a benchmark producer of unashamedly plush, opulent, hedonistic wines. Embraced by dramatic mountain peaks and nurtured by the valley’s rich loam soils, this unique microclimate yields fruit of notable depth, ripeness and structural refinement.
While the estate is justly famous for its muscular Bordeaux blends, it is perhaps their Syrah and Semillon that truly showcase the diverse capabilities of this multi-layered terroir. Their Syrah, in particular, is always opulent, ripe and highly expressive, with multiple releases showing plush layers of sweet violet perfume, black plum compote, roasted coffee beans and brûléed oak spice characteristics. But in a very much juxtaposing, slightly atypical Holden Manz style, their Semillon delivers a wonderfully cool, fresh, and crystalline personality loaded with pithy lemon peel, white blossoms, and a vibrant, tangy mouthwatering acidity that keeps the palate energetically alive. Two diametrically opposing styles showing that this estate should not be pigeon holed.
Holden Manz Semillon 2023, WO Franschhoek, 12.5% Abv.
This 2023 is a fabulously bright, crystalline pale gold yellow that simply bristles with energy. Coming from the Franschhoek Valley, one of the Cape’s true Semillon homelands, this wine shines with taut, mineral aromatics showing delicate tart white citrus, honeysuckle, fresh lawn cuttings, saline briney notes together with crushed oystershell and delicately herbal green leaf nuances. The delicately prickly aromatics follow to a cool, steely, intense palate with a pronounced wet stone minerality, tart yellow plums, green apple skins, and a lovely pronounced line of acidity on the linear finish. This is a top drawer Semillon expression that can confidently stand tall amongst the finest examples in the Valley. Drink now and over the next 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW
Holden Manz Reserve Syrah 2020, WO Franschhoek, 15% Abv.
While the aromatics and ripeness on this opulent Reserve Syrah suggest a warmer vintage, on the contrary, 2020 in Franschhoek was not considered a warm dry harvest with the growing season widely celebrated as a cooler, wetter, and highly favourable vintage that marked a welcome relief from the severe, multi-year drought that plagued the Western Cape between 2015 and 2018. On this impressive reserve wine we see lush, plush, bold aromatics of savoury black plum, blueberry compote, salty black liquorice and delicate burnt sugar and molasses nuances. The palate deceptively screams Southern Rhone, showing a creamy blue and black berry fruit concentration, savoury hints of cured deli meats, chargrilled charcuterie and a creamy lactic oak kissed concentration on the bold, hedonistic finish. The earthy Chateauneuf-du-Pape’esque character will certainly appeal to many connoisseurs who like their Syrahs with a little more ‘meat on the bone’. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Holden Manz wines are imported into the UK by Vindependents and are widely available retail from South African specialist merchant Museum Wines and Wood Winters in Scotland.
Welcome to Benvenuto Brunello, the celebrated international wine tasting premiere that is held annually in the heart of Montalcino. In 2026, Benvenuto Brunello arrived in London! So, as we look toward to the 2021 vintage, the event marks a historic milestone: the debut of a year that critics are already calling a “vertical masterpiece.” While Benvenuto Brunello 2021 (the event) originally introduced the resilient 2017s, the 2021 vintage itself – now hitting the world stage in 2026 – is the new crown jewel of the appellation and looks to be a vintage getting global critics very excited.
The 2021 vintage was born from a year of dramatic contrasts, beginning with a sharp spring frost that naturally thinned yields, followed by a warm, stable summer. The resulting wines are defined by their “al dente” structure – vibrant, deep, and remarkably precise. Unlike the solar warmth of 2020 or the operatic power of 2019, the 2021s offer a refreshing return to aromatic transparency, mineral classicism, and nervous energy.
At this year’s exciting London preview, tasters found Sangiovese in its most elegant form: floral, savoury, and built for decades of cellar ageing. For collectors and enthusiasts, Benvenuto Brunello remains the essential early compass for navigating these releases, celebrating a vintage that perfectly balances Montalcino’s rugged Mediterranean soul with sophisticated, modern finesse.
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Rich plummy nose packed with berry fruits. Fleshy, soft and deliciously full in the mouth.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Delicately reductive with saline cassis, black cherry and wood smoke. Sleek mineral tannins, supple, pure and precise with a beautiful balance.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosili 2021
Richer, broader savoury black berry aromatics. Delicately sappy, showing wood spice, black berries, balsamic and a plummy depth with a telltale salinity. A very complete wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Bright and lifted with fragrant candied red cherry fruits. Good depth and fleshy concentration, soft acids and an accessible, generous opulence.
(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Smoky spicy black cherry notes with hints of violets, wild herbs and wood spice. Finely poised, cool, creamy and elegant with a superb fruit – acidity balance and sufficient creamy tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa 2021
Deep, dark and broody, showing balsamic, black cherry and botte barrel wood spice. Plush, ripe and concentrated, layered with black berries and liquorice over a more prominent structure.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Argiano Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Bright, vibrant lifted aromatics, violets, red cherry and a delightful raisined cranberry fragrance. Sweet, plush and slightly reductive and saline, this is a very smart, polished expression.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2021
A very expressive aromatics, perfumed, precise and full of pink musk and candied red cherry fruits. Lovely concentration, fleshy mid-palate and a long finish with stony grippy mineral tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo 2021
Aromatics of fragrant pressed violets, lavender and savoury red cherry fruits aged for 24 months in large oak. Intense and focused, tightly textured with powdery tannins and a long, spicy, freshness on this limestone site. Very impressive..
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2022
Lovely vital, savoury, perfumed aromatics with hints of red berries, cured meats and grilled herbs. Beautiful breadth and depth with an extra bit of bottle complexity and textural sophistication. Compact, powerful with a good mineral back bone.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Intricate aromatics with red and black berry fruits, red liquorice and delicate notes of tar and dried herbs. Compact and textured, there is impressive depth, elegance and understated power. A very serious expression.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Famiglia Maté Brunello di Montalcino 2021
A deep broody aromatics show sweet Christmas spices, tar, liquorice, balsamic and botte oak spice notes. Silky soft and precise, there is impressive focus and freshness, a supple fleshy concentration and a cool, harmonious finish with good persistence. Really beautiful wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Famiglia Maté Brunello do Montalcino Veltha 2021
The complex aromatics reveal Christmas spices, wood bark, quinine, and bramble berry nuances. Plush and mouth coating, the concentration is impressive, the balance and harmony rich, intense and focused. Packs a lot of punch with elegance and sophistication. A real beaut.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Famiglia Maté Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020
Complex aromatics show plenty of sapidity and botte wood spice, black liquorice, aniseed root and bramble berry nuances. Plush and compact on the palate, revealing notes of balsamic, cured meats and savoury raisined red cherry notes. Power packed and full of mineral grip with a fabulously intricate texture. Truly superb.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Frescobaldi Castel Gioconda Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Broad broody aromatics show black cherries, wood smoke, liquorice, and subtle earthy notes. Full and punchy on the palate, but texturally polished and very precise, layered with spicy cherry, limestone minerality and complex Christmas spices.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo Vigna Ripe al Convento Riserva 2020
The nose reveals broody, tarry, smoky black cherry fruits following to a plush, creamy palate with well integrated acids and a deliciously concentrated tertiary fruit finish. A lot going on here, making for a very notable Reserva style.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino 2023
Rich, ripe and lifted with layered aromatics of raspberry ripple, confected red cherry and a delicate sapidity. Quite restrained on the palate, mineral and spicy but showing a well polished red fruited core beneath.
(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Aged three years in large oak, the wine shows delicately reductive aromatics packed full of gun smoke, wood embers, tar, black cherry and kelpy salinity. Compact, tight knit and creamy, there’s a real focus and concentration, textural density and a long, tangy finish. Superb.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020
From a 62 year old single vineyard that’s aged for four years in large oak. Plush, complex and intense being full of liquorice, bresaola, cured meats and a creamy, textural, black cherry fruit finish. Dense, powerful and kissed with sweet baking herbs and dried mint leaf nuances on the finish. True class.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2021
A delicately reductive nose shows earthy savoury aromatics embellished with delicate pink musk, raisined red cherries and perfumed potpourri spice. Full, plush and creamy, this carries concentration and weight of fruit, finely balanced by a well-integrated acidity.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello do Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2021
First produced in 1981 but not made every year. Aged one year in French oak then transferred to Slavonian oak for a further two years. Deep, broody, brambly aromatics with a savoury earthy depth and raisined cherries. Plush, sweet fruited and quite expansive in the mouth, this has deliciously ripe berry fruits, a notable concentration but also a beautifully tangy acidity on the long finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020
An extra year of oak, normally around three to three and a half years but with an emphasis on elegance and finesse. Beautifully mineral and tight knit, this is quite a serious Brunello expression allowing a fine stony mineral vein to shine through. Impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Quite a plush, creamy lactic expression with classical red cherry, cranberry and limestone mineral notes. The minerality is also notable on the palate, framed with grippy tannins, a plush fruit concentration and a delightful black stone fruit finish with impressive power.
The Skurfberg Mountain is part of the Citrusdal mountain area and the word Skurfberg (Rugged Mountain in Afrikaans) mainly refers to the edgy and rough appearance of the mountain. The soil is mainly decomposed Table Mountain sandstone formations and tends to be very sandy. It is regarded as a truly great site for Chenin Blanc, and it is most unusual that such a warm and dry area still produces wines with this enormous texture and balancing freshness.
Together, the three low-yielding parcels Sadie Family Wines uses represent the possibilities of the area, each offering something unique to the complexity of the final blend. The one site has huge aromatic fruit concentration; the second offers an earthy character and overt minerality, and the third (the highest, and closest to the Atlantic Ocean) retains amazing acidity and freshness. The three parcels of fruit are vinified separately.
Winemaking: The grapes are picked in small 20kg picking crates and then placed in a cooling room to reduce the temperature. Eben Sadie considers this an essential step in the Swartland where temperatures are often 35 degrees C and more during harvest time; and pressing warm grapes comes with a series of potential challenges. The cooling process is followed up by whole bunch pressing. The process takes about three hours and during this time there is a margin of settling of the juice in the collecting tank. The juice is then transferred to two older foudre where it is left undisturbed until natural fermentation starts. The fermentation process can sometimes take up to 10 or more days to initiate and can last anything from 1 to 6 months, sometimes only finishing during the next spring, by which time the malolactic fermentation would often have come to completion as well. The wine is left in cask on the fermentation lees for 12 months and bottled directly off the lees. They add about 50ppm of sulphur 2 weeks prior to bottling and bottle directly from the cask.
2017 Producer Note:“Skurfberg fruit came in fully ripe in 2017 and produced a very serious wine in the Chenin arena. The aromatics are very spicy, white pepper with some flinty tones that then cross over into again the stone fruit aromas of apples and pear skin. There is also a minerality that is running throughout the wine and not only on the aromatics, but it carries through to the palate. This wine needs a serious plate of food.” ~ Eben Sadie.
Sadie Family Wines Skurfberg Chenin Blanc 2017, WO Olifants Rivier, 14% Abv.
A more creamy expression on the nose, quite leesy and biscuity. Also a bit of delicious pear fruit. Juicy and tangy on the palate, delicately pithy, deceptively grippy but finishes with a cool, vibrant precision. No real rush but keep an eye on it. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
2018 Producer Note:“The Skurfberg up in the Clanwilliam mountains was definitely the area most affected by the drought. Not only did these vineyards receive less rain, but with half the normal rainfall and the extremely well-drained, decomposed Table Mountain sandstone soils the combination was just suicidal. We only managed to pick 30% of the grapes we collect in a normal year. The wine is unbelievably harmonious and poised and it actually does not show much of the drought other than a slightly lower alcohol level and a higher acidity than normal – we picked earlier to try and save as much of the vine reserves as we could. Drinking this wine is the closest we’ll probably get to walking on crystal.” ~ Eben Sadie.
Sadie Family Wines Skurfberg Chenin Blanc 2018, WO Olifants Rivier, 13.5% Abv.
A very saline, tangy expression of Chenin full of white peach, pear and green apple aromatics. Full and mouthwatering on the palate, packed with pear and peach fruits but essentially a very vibrant expressive and pure focused Skurfberg. Impressive concentration and really no rush if you have in your cellar. Drink now to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
2019 Producer Note:“Following the trajectory to the northern territories of the Citrusdal Mountain area the Skurfberg yields, just like those of the Soldaat, were suicidally low and we managed to bottle only a third of our usual production. The 2019 displays amazingly concentrated stone fruit and quince flavours with a pronounced mineral note, very good acidity and freshness. In many ways this is one of the purest forms of Chenin we have had in the tank to date.” ~ Eben Sadie.
Sadie Family Wines Skurfberg Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Olifants Rivier ,14% Abv.
A more honied, opulent aromatics with notes of bees wax and melted wax candles. Rich and punchy, this is a block buster from the outset – broad but also fresh and intense but super long on the finish. Wow! A big, big, big vintage. Drink now to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
2020 Producer Note: “This 2020 vintage of Skurfberg was a very limited production as yields again dwindled down, the drought in the Cederberg Mountains continued and we opted to reduce the yield in order to save reserves. This 2020 is an incredibly compact and viscus expression of Chenin Blanc and the stone fruit and peach skin aromas are followed up by a very mineral expression and some tropical aromas in the background. The tannins are smooth and the acidity is perfectly nestled in between the fruit and the tannin. Please give wine the time in the bottle.” ~ Eben Sadie.
Sadie Family Wines Skurfberg Chenin Blanc 2020, WO Olifants Rivier, 14% Abv.
Wow, what a beautifully fragrant Skurfberg with hints of yellow peach, honey, and buttered white toast. Full, fresh, and fleshy on the palate, this is a powerful, dense expression. Really amazing, this tops the line-up with its structured, balanced by power. A really sophisticated age worthy success for a vintage that often leans to the earlier drinking side. No rush here however. Drink now to 2036+.
Last year I paid an excellent visit to see Chris Keet, the winemaker at the Van Biljon winery in Stellenbosch in the Polkadraai Hills, situated just behind the Raats Family Winery. I was fortunate enough to taste a selection of lovely back vintages including the Cinq maiden release Van Biljon as well as their yet unreleased 2021. But with their 2020 blend only hitting the market now, I thought I would take another look at this exciting new release from what was quite a complicated Cape vintage.
In general, it is always difficult to generalise about Polkadraai Hills vintages as so often they depart from the Stellenbosch norm with their cool, south facing vineyards overlooking False Bay, benefiting from cooling breezes off the cold Atlantic Ocean. In 2020, good winter rains in 2019 laid the foundation for a “good, solid” vintage. Fortunately, the grapes were harvested and in the cellar by the end of March before Covid-19 started a mad scurry in the wider Cape winelands. Overall, the growing season was moderate to cool with timely in-season rainfall which laid the foundations for yet another high-quality vintage. A beautifully composed wine, the Cinq 2020 draws on the best elements of each cultivar in the blend and delivers a really distinguished expression that must surely rank among the top Cape Bordeaux blend examples of the vintage. Known for its high scoring consistency, the Van Biljon Cinq is slowly becoming a Stellenbosch phenomenon, and 2020 looks to continue this trend.
Van Biljon Cinq 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
The 2020 Cinq cuvee is a majestic blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, the wine shows an enticingly fragrant, lifted, exuberant aromatics marked with sweet violets, piquant cedar spice, wet tobacco leaf, black currant and pronounced graphite lead pencil nuances. Lifted and airy, the palate is intricate and multi-dimensional revealing an energetic, vivacious character with the most seductive fine grained velvety tannins, cool spicy black currant and black cherry fruit notes, and a most agreeably fulsome and harmoniously textured balance on the spicy finish. It is surely this wine’s classical balance, effortless intensity and elegant concentration that makes it yet another incredibly attractive Cape Bordeaux blend offering. Drink now to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Van Biljon wines are available to trade in the UK from specialist importer Woodwinters, and to consumers from reputable merchants like Museum Wines.
My last trip to Burgundy in 2025 was slightly later than usual, in early December instead of the usual early to mid-November. This actually worked exceptionally well as all the growers had recovered from the bravado of the Hospice de Beaune Auction events as well as the tsunami of global wine merchants and critics that descend upon Burgundy every year around this time ahead of the En-primeur campaign. Arriving later was a masterstroke as not only were the winemakers feeling a lot more relaxed, but so too were their wines… in this case the 2024 whites and reds from one of the smallest and most difficult harvests on record.
Unfortunately, the slightly later schedule meant that we (myself and Domaine Bizot’s exclusive UK importer) would miss seeing Jean-Yves Bizot at his cellar in Vosne-Romanee when we went to taste the meagre quantities of 2024s from barrel as he would already be in Asia on tour attending events in China and Korea. But fear not, we were expertly guided through the sublime barrel tasting by Jean-Yves’s right-hand man, Victor Mignardot, who would also be in London the following week to help tutor two sensational private client collector tasting dinners featuring some of Jean-Yves’s finest wines.
Victor Mignardot in the Bizot cellar.
With access to the Domaine Bizot cellar incredibly limited, I feel blessed every time I am able to visit to taste these unbelievable wines from barrel at the domaine, where their perfection, precision and true brilliance is laid bare in all their glory. Jean-Yves’s Burgundies do fortunately travel very well, but there is certainly nothing like tasting the new vintages from barrel to experience their purity and finesse which is amplified by Jean-Yves’s lack of sulphur use during the winemaking and elevage process, preferring a more modest, considered sulphuring of his wines before bottling. For the exceptional 2024 releases, demand will be incrementally greater due to their excellent quality, but tiny quantities of wine produced. To compensate UK buyers and loyal followers of Jean-Yves’s wines, two incredible dinners were arranged in London to which I was graciously invited.
Chez Bruce private tasting room.Tasting the 2024 vintages.
The first of these two incredible events in mid-December featured mostly new release “in-bottle” vintages of Domaine Bizot’s 2023 wines alongside a small array of slightly older vintages. Expertly matched with some incredible food pairings at one of London’s top Michelin Starred restaurants, Chez Bruce, Victor and Andrew Pavli from Musigny Wines, Bizot’s exclusive UK importer, guided the guests through a delectable line up of wines that started with two phenomenal whites.
The Domaine Bizot Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc 2022 was a rich, broad, expansive expression that showed beautifully expressive aromatics and fruit power. Layered with leesy lemon and saline, briney maritime notes, and delicate wood spice complexity. The intensity and piercing tangy acids were classic Bizot with a little extra horsepower from this punchy vintage. A really exceptional wine. (95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
This was followed by the Domaine Bizot Bourgogne La Violette Blanc 2023, an incredibly elegant expression with plenty of textural finesse and effortless intensity. Sweet savoury lemon aromatics, lime peel and a wet stone minerality carry the palate with a beautiful harmony, tight grained phenolics and finely integrated acids. Showing simply sublime balance and finesse. (94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Clos de la Bidaude Monopole just above Clos des Lambrays.
The next four wines, poured in two flights, excitingly featured a wine that I rated as one of my top Burgundies tasted in 2025… the Domaine Bizot Clos de la Bidaude Monopole 2023. From one of Jean-Yves’s newer vineyard purchases, the maiden vintage was only produced in 2021 with no 2022 released, upping the pressure and expectations from collectors for the follow up. Thankfully, the Bidaude 2023 is a knockout expression, the concentration, depth, elegance and sublime precision simply staggering. This is certainly a wine I am happy to highlight individually in more detail as one of my true favourites of 2025.
Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Clos de la Bidaude Monopole 2023
A wine that is simply mesmerizingly intense with piercing aromatics of violets, saline crème de cassis, oyster shell, and sloe berries with a tightly knit complexity of smoky sapidity, crushed limestone and chalky spice. Piercing and powerful, the purity and intensity of fruit is awesome, the precision, polish, and concentration simply majestic. The perfect marriage of intelligent winemaking harnessing super fruit purity and perfect hillside terroir. A really super impressive success for the vintage. Drink from 2028 to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
With minuscule amounts of the Clos de la Bidaude 2024 produced, all eyes will certainly return to this wine for the potential 2025 release. This is a wine that you just feel Jean-Yves believes can match and even perhaps surpass, with time and further viticultural and winemaking tweaking, his iconic Vosne Romanee les Jachees and his Echezeaux Grand Cru. I myself, having tasted all bottled expressions, have no doubts whatsoever. So, with the 2023 Clos de la Bidaude upping the temperature on this cold wintery December evening in London, the follow up wines proved equally impressive.
Next up, the eye-wateringly delicious Domaine Bizot Vosne Romanee 2020 village, a wine with profound lifted aromatics, a savoury red and black berry fruit intensity, and a beguiling whole bunch sapidity that simply added the perfect ‘salt and pepper’ to this fine wine recipe. Youthful but drinking so incredibly well already, this wine, with the ripeness of the 2020 vintage, was one of the crowds’ absolute favourites on the night. (96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The last pair featured the well-priced Domaine Bizot Le Chapitre Rouge 2020 and the Grand Vin of Jean-Yves’s range, his Echezeaux Grand Cru. The Chapitre 2020 shared many similarities with the delightful Vosne Romanee 2020 without being quite as powerful and intense but perhaps, slightly more perfumed and ethereal. What this pair of 2020 reds certainly proved was how well they were drinking on the eve of their 6th anniversary. Certainly no rush, but a beautifully elegant wine. (95/100 Greg Sherwood MW).
Last but not least, the Echezeaux Grand Cru, one of the wines that has helped put Jean Yves on the global “most collectable” Burgundy map. As per my barrel tasting last year, a uniquely impressive expression but perhaps just 5% behind the Bidaude 2023 in both aromatic power and fruit intensity. But the brooding depth might make this the dark horse of the vintage for a late resurgence. (97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
While Jean-Yves might not have been there to share some of his own vinous treats, the evening nevertheless ended with one of his favourite sweet wines, the Vin de Constance 2017, a wine I tasted again earlier in the year with winemaker Matt Day at Klein Constantia during a vertical tasting. This is a bright, intense, seductive sweet wine that wears its greatness with effortless ease. A delicious end to a memorable evening of fine food and wine. (97/100 Greg Sherwood MW).
The wines of Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact them to request an allocation.
This is the story behind South Africa’s first bottled single varietal Merlot. Upon discovering the Merlot vines he planted in 1973 were infected with leafroll virus, Braam van Velden set out to find healthy virus-free vines. After an extensive search, new Italian clone Merlot vines were obtained and planted in 1979.
Braam explained … “Our first vintage from this block was in 1982. The wine was so impressive that we deemed it worthy to be bottled on its own. This also prompted us to extend the wine’s time in the small oak barrels to nine months, which was a long time in those days.”
When the Merlot was bottled in 1983, it was the first single varietal South African Merlot on the market. There were many raised eyebrows: “I remember being asked why we were bottling a blending wine on its own” Braam van Velden would exclaim.
David van Velden
The Overgaauw estate, like many of South Africa’s famous historic wineries, has seen its fair share of ups and downs and financial challenges as the family generations have transitioned, but successor David van Velden, in recent times, has put in a proper shift to help return the business to the glory days of the past. The latest three releases to return to the UK market suggest the future is indeed bright for this historic Stellenbosch wine brand.
Overgaauw Estate Merlot 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
They say Merlot can be one of the most temperamental of all the Bordeaux red cultivars. But this juicy expression is as classical as they come, plush, soft textured with red and black berry fruits, ripe black plums and spicy undertones of coffee beans and wet tobacco leaf. The palate is plush and approachable, medium bodied with a juicy, tangy plumy acidity shrouded by fine powdery tannins and a core of black berry fruits with a notable red cherry kiss on the finish. The has all the balance and polish you would hope for from a textbook Merlot. Drink now to 2030+.
(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Overgaauw Estate Reserve Merlot 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
As the first Estate bottled Merlot in South Africa, the burden of expectation rests heavily on the shoulders of the Overgaauw winery. Where the Estate Merlot is sleek, modestly complex, and textbook supple and elegant, the Estate Reserve opens more avenues of complexity and intricacy. Remaining classical and elegantly restrained in a true Stellenbosch style, the Reserve reveals complex aromatics of freshly tilled earth, fleshy plum and black currants, hints of mulberry and sweet tannery leather. On the palate, the sweet sappy cedary oak spice melts seamlessly into layers of fleshy plummy black fruits, black chai tea, delicately herbaceous dried baking herbs, graphite, and crushed granite minerality underpinned by dense creamy soft tannins. Undoubtedly a wine with substance and depth that will appeal to drinkers looking for something substantial but also slightly less challenging than Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Overgaauw Estate Tria corda Cape Bordeaux Blend 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 15% Abv.
A classical blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, this 2020 shows overt creamy blue and black berry fruits, crème de cassis, sappy cedar, graphite, and gentle hints of brûléed coffee beans and moist pipe tobacco. The palate is impressively compact, dense and concentrated with savoury black currants and black cherry notes, sweet velvety tannins, and bright tangy acids that lend great palate energy and vibrancy. A well-balanced Cape Bordeaux blend that has a real feel of class and pedigree to it remaining unhindered by its 15% abv. Drink now and over the next 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The wines of Overgaauw Estate are imported into the UK by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.
La Croizille is a wonderfully situated Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé Chateau that was acquired by the Belgian De Schepper – De Mour family in 1996 and whose wines are sold mostly in the Benelux. The 5 hectares of vines belonging to the Château benefit from the same remarkable soils, on the borders of the clay-limestone plateau of Saint-Emilion in the commune of Saint-Laurent des Combes, as famous chateaux such as Tetre Roteboeuf, Rocheyron and Troplong Mondot.
After 1996, the De Schepper family commenced on a large investment spree, bringing the estate into the modern winemaking era, combining its sought-after terroir with high-end technology and traditional know-how to create a wine with great opulence, finesse, modernity, and personality under the watchful eye of highly respected head winemaker and technical director, Jean-Michel Garcion.
Technical Director Jean Michel Garcion
I have been following their wines since I was introduced to the chateau in 2014 when I travelled to Bordeaux to run the 30th Bordeaux Marathon, and I can confirm that all the hard work and focus applied by Jean Michel and his team has paid off handsomely with both Chateau La Croizille and the neighbouring property, Chateau Tour Baladoz, also owned by the De Schepper family, being upgraded from Saint Emilion Grand Cru status up to the Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé classification commencing with the 2022 vintage. A hard earned and well-deserved recognition of the continuity of excellence at these two high quality Chateaux.
The Chateau La Croizille on the limestone cote.
So to celebrate this momentous reclassification, I have updated my vertical tasting notes for La Croizille to include not only all the bottles I retasted at the Chateau in September 2023, but also fittingly, to include the latest 2023 Grand Cru Classé vintage release that will be bottled next year. These are wines to seek out, drink and add to your cellar collection while they still offer excellent value for money in the context of the region’s premium Saint Emilion reds.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2007, 13% Abv.
The vineyards on the clay-limestone plateau yielded a spectacularly good offering in 2007. Notes of polished mahogany, earth, tannery leather, cherry kirsch liqueur and black current rise out of the glass. Wonderful berry concentration, elegance and subtle evolution are hallmarks on this expertly crafted wine. It will be hard not to finish the bottle once you open this beauty. Drink now to 2030+.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle December 2017.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010, 13% Abv.
From this epic vintage, notes of polished mahogany, boot polish, black cherry kirsch liquer and black current confit rise imperiously out of the glass. Wonderful concentration, elegance and freshness are all wrapped together with a most expertly integrated lick of new French oak. This is everything you would want from an iconic vintage and a real testament to winemaker Jean-Michel’s true skills. Drink now to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle December 2017.
A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, like the 2012, this is another impressive vintage showing fabulous depth and complexity with time in the glass albeit from one of the greatest ever vintages bestowed upon Bordeaux! Dense, dark and opaque in the glass, the aromatics boast exotic notes of cherry kirsch liquor, molasses, demerara sugar and black plum. This is, as expected, a very complex, sophisticated expression, with ripeness and plenty of dry extract, chalky mineral tannins and great underlying power whilst retaining a seductive, spicy, seductive finesse. You’d really want to have some of this in your cellar.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle September 2023.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2011, 13% Abv.
The 2011 shows attractive floral perfume aromatics, polished oak, cherry confit, cherry liquer and saline black current leaf intensity. Superb concentration, sleek textured elegance and freshness and a smattering of the most attractive French oak vanilla spice notes. A noble and impressive follow up to the 2010 and a wine that will happily grace the tables of the most discerning connoisseurs. Drink now to 2029+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle December 2017.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2012, 13% Abv.
A dark cherry black opaque colour greets the drinker. Initially, the nose is broody and closed. But a little glass swirling and coaxing starts to elicit some of the more classical elements of the bouquet… black berry, black cherry pith, cassis, dusty limestone minerality, hints of graphite and a gloss of buttered brown toast. The oaking is almost imperceptible, revealing a very restrained and quite classical expression from this “drinking” Bordeaux vintage. The palate has all the sleekness, suppleness, and accessibility that you’d expect from a 2012. A soft fine-grained texture with polished powdery tannins, chalky grip and spicy, plummy, peppery black cherry and black berry fruit. It’s all packed into a very classical, medium bodied parcel, that delivers pleasure now but also suggest it is structured enough to be holding back a few surprises in reserve for drinkers in 5 to 8 years’ time.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle December 2017.
Another great vintage from the Chateau, this 2012 shows seductive aromatics of damson plum, juniper and black cherry with hints of liquorice and melted tar. The palate offers the friendly face of generous, opulent, succulent Merlot while retaining a tight knit textural elegance and focus. With just a hint of nutty, savoury tertiary development on the finish, this is undoubtedly a wine that is standing the test of time and defying its age. Great to drink now but certainly no rush.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2014, 13% Abv.
This wine is ripe and rich with beautifully plush classical right bank allure and a soft textured, elegant cassis pastille fruit concentration. A complex wine already in its youth, the layers of mocha, cocoa powder spice and sweet damson plum coat the tongue and thrill the palate. This wine has real depth of fruit, vibrant freshness, and superb length. A class act from some of the best terroir in St Emilion.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2015, 13% Abv.
The neighbour of Francois Mitjavile’s Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf, La Croizille is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. True to the vintage, this wine has a spectacularly profound quality, and indeed the 2015 La Croizille could be among their greatest ever vintages produced. Certainly on par with the epic 2005, 2009 and 2010, the 2015 has a nose that is seductively perfumed, lifted out of the ordinary by cherry blossoms and an exotic undertone of cherry kirsch liqueur. The caramelized oak notes tease like sprinkles on a chocolate cake! The palate too is dark, dense, powerful, and packed full of opulent exotic flavours of Chinese plum sauce, tart cherry confit, sweet cassis and vanilla pod spice. The balance is exceptional, spreading broad and wide across the palate. This is right bank Bordeaux at its seductive, classical best. Plump yet fresh, dense, sweet fruited and gravelly, yet never losing focus. Oh, and the finish goes on and on like a Duracell bunny! What an impressive wine.
From another warm ripe harvest, 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon blend shows impressive classicism and restraint with dark broody notes of juniper and ripe sloe berries, black cherry, and cassis with a pronounced maritime, kelpy salinity. The palate is generously soft textured and elegant, supremely supple yet fresh, showing that this wine is in a very happy place at the moment. Slightly reined in again on the finish, it’s an impressive creation that will appeal to a broad church of Bordeaux lovers.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2016, 14% Abv.
The 2016 Château La Croizille has a dense, opulent profuse blueberry fruited nose, high-toned and showy, with all the mineral limestone complexity of its prestigious neighbours such as Tertre Roteboeuf, Troplong Mondot and Rocheyron. The palate is showing some elegant restraint and class with sweet ripe tannins, surly brambly red and black fruits, and an earthy, foresty, rather masculine, slightly introspective finish. So seductive and noble, this wine speaks of great St Emilion terroir with very intelligent winemaking. A superb effort.
(Wine Safari Score: 93-95/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasting of barrel sample at En-primeur April 2017.
This is of course a great vintage and on great terroir, iconic wines are produced. This 2016 speaks with a quiet confidence, fabulously focused and intense. On the nose there is a clearly defined purity, clarity, and precision that combines ripeness and restraint, fruit intensity and minerality. A superbly precise wine with pinpoint tannins, a silky finesse, pithy black currant, and black cherry fruits framed by a smoky, chalky mineral tannin veil on the finish. Very impressive indeed.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in bottle September 2023.
Chateau La Croizille Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2018, 14.5% Abv.
Wonderfully complex aromatics of stewed black cherries, black orchard fruit compote, with hints of liquorice, wood smoke and graphite. The palate is opulent and densely fruited with a pronounced air of ripeness, warmth and sweet fruit, impressively layered in the mouth. On the finish, the flamboyance is reined in, retaining a seamlessly creamy texture but without and obtrusive sweetness. Drink now to 2035+.
Chateau La Croizille 2019 Saint Emilion Grand Cru (Barrel Sample)
Plush, broadly aromatic but beautifully soft toned with dulcet notes pink musk, purple rock candy and black currant with a fabulously generous glycerol concentration, harmonious breadth and depth and a subtle, vanilla dusted, brûléed blueberry muffin finish. Delicious expression. Power with elegance.
Chateau La Croizille 2020, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 14.5% Abv.
The 2020 vintage comes from another warm ripe solar harvest year, and this wine shows impressive depth and breadth of texture, with dark broody notes of cherry kirsch liquor, juniper and ripe sloe berries, rose petals, black cherries, blueberries, and black currant with a signature limestone maritime salinity. The palate is generously soft textured, broad but elegant, supremely supple yet impressively fresh with exotic layers of black currant and salty black liquorice. A remarkably elegant, pure and accessible expression with real gravitas that shows a true sense of Saint Emilion limestone terroir. Drink now to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Croizille 2021, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe, 13.5% Abv.
A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 Bordeaux vintage has been pulled up by some critics for producing wines on the left bank offering lighter, more elegant accessible wines, many patently for earlier drinking. But on the right bank, and especially on top of the limestone Côte in Saint Emilion, some exceptional expressions were produced. With illustrious neighbours Troplong Mondot and Le Tertre Roteboeuf making noteworthy wines, La Croizille joins the party with another seriously delicious wine, the last vintage produced before being reclassified as an illustrious Grand Cru Classé. Dark and opaque in the glass, the rim is vibrant and bright, with aromatics packed with black plums, earthy black currants and macerated black cherries, intermingling with floral hints of violets, lilac, sweet Asian spices, vanilla pod and hoisin plum sauce. The texture is fabulously luxurious and sleek, medium bodied and beautifully polished with soft silky sumptuous tannins underpinned by well-integrated tangy acids. This is a majestic Saint Emilion that offers an abundance of finesse, elegance, and accessible class in keeping with a finer boned, classical vintage. Many consumers, however, will look at the 2021s as a welcomed return to greater vintage restraint and classism. Drink now and over the next 15+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Croizille 2022, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 14.5% Abv.
The 2022 vintage in Bordeaux is now recognized as a truly great year comparable with the quality heights of 2016 and 2019. This attractive wine shows an intense and expressive aromatics of fragrant violets, ripe plums, blue and black berry fruits, salty black liquorice and delicate brown breakfast toast notes. The palate is impressively ripe and fleshy with the black currant and mulberry fruits caressed by fine grained limestone mineral tannins with hints of cocoa powder and blue berry compote on the long, creamy finish. Power and concentration with a measured elegance. Drink now to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle May 2026.
Chateau La Croizille 2023, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé (Barrel Sample)
Rich, dark and broody with aromatics of purple rock candy, violets, creme de cassis and black cherry confit. The palate is bold and dense, packed full of fleshy, textured fruit extract, dry velvety tannins, and tangy acids, all intelligently coaxed and caressed into a seriously powerful right bank expression that immediately shows its terroir pedigree.
Chateau La Croizille 2023, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2023
This beautiful Saint Emilion displays an enticing creamy, lactic, blueberry fruit intensity on the aromatics combined with subtle brûléed black berries, sweet cedar wood spice, and undertones of dusty limestone minerality. With a couple of years in bottle, the palate has become incredibly elegant and accessible with a seamless, silky texture, a finely integrated acidity, and a delicately stony, linear, tart finish. Not the most lauded vintage on the Right Bank but this wine is certainly one of the true stunners of 2023 and most definitely lives up to its new Grand Cru Classé elevation. Drink now to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW) – Tasted in Bottle June 2026.
Chateau La Croizille 2024, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, 14.5% Abv. (Barrel Sample)
A beautifully dark, dense, and seductively opaque in the glass, this 2024 Saint Emilion reveals a deep black berry fruited aromatic underbelly with notes of violets, sweet cigar box, cedar spice, graphite, and blueberry compote with a subtle dusting of vanilla pod oak spice. Notably restrained on the nose, the palate shifts into a higher gear to reveal a plush, silky, harmonious palate with soft supple tannins, seamlessly integrated acids, and soft-toned black and blueberry fruits in the mouth. The extraction has been incredibly gentle, coaxing only the purest and finest characters from this reduced grape harvest. This is undoubtedly a phoenix rising from the ashes of the 2024 vintage weather chaos. A truly standout, classically restrained expression from Saint Emilion’s limestone cote.
The Glenelly Estate is a beautiful winery buried in a little corner of the Idas Valley in Stellenbosch. The property was famously bought in 2003 by Madame May de Lencquesaing of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande fame in Pauillac, Bordeaux, with a vision to transform the property into one of the preeminent fine wine producers in Stellenbosch. With vineyards planted on near virgin granitic rich soils, Glenelly Estate had the opportunity to map out a varietal path that completely suited the style of wines they were looking to make.
With May Lencquesaing celebrating her 100 birthday in 2025, I thought it would be a good time to pay another visit to the winery. With previous cellar master Luke O’Cuinneagain now settled in at Vergelegen Estate in the Helderberg after taking over from a retiring Andre van Rensberg, the mantle was passed to the talented winemaker Dirk van Zyl to pick up where Luke left off and take the Glenelly Estate into a new decade of premium wine production. Along with the below Lady May mini-vertical, Dirk also kindly let me taste through multiple barrels of the phenomenal quality 2025 vintage to plant the seed for the exciting wines to come.
Glenelly Estate Lady May Vertical: 2017 to 2021
Glenelly Estate Lady May 2017, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The aromatics are incredibly pure and precise with finely integrated notes of herbal spice, graphite, black currant and hints of chocolate and spearmint complexity. The palate is tight and restrained, silky, focused and very tight grained, with incredible fruit concentration, a light touch mineral intensity and a notable harmony. An incredibly accomplished wine still in its shell, that’s hardly evolved in the past two years. One for the cellar!
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tasting with Dirk van Zyl, Glenelly head winemaker and cellar master.
Glenelly Estate Lady May 2018, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
“Simply the true essence of Bordeaux in a glass…”
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Merlot. Incredibly restrained aromatics with intense notes of graphite, cedar spice, delicate black currant, sweet black cherry, creme de cassis complexity. So incredibly fine grained texture, pin point focus with a fantastic mineral vein. Fabulous velvety tannins but held in place by a bright steely framing acidity. This is probably one of the most accomplished reds produced in the entire 2018 vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Glenelly barrel maturation cellar.
Glenelly Estate Lady May 2019, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. This shows a more classical Stellenbosch feel with layers of black currant fruits, black fruit, tilled earth, sweet tannery leather and black tea. The palate is sleek, cool, focused, quite muscular but steely and stony, with a notable underlying power and intensity but with polished corners, a creamy velvety chalky tannin grip and a well integrated acid freshness. Tangy and bright on the finish, this is a beautifully focused wine that just needs a few more years in the cellar.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Glenelly Estate Lady May 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
A blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. From a relatively warm early vintage yielding ripe, accessible, forward wines that many winemakers feel has been forgotten as the covid year. An intricate wine that offers accessibility with structure, allowing the wine to age for many years. The aromatics are intense and fresh, loaded with creme de cassis, black cherry and blueberry hints, with dried mint leaves, baking herbs, and curry leaf spice complexity. The elegance is very clear and apparent, the silky finesse and accessibility complimented by effortless tannins. This should be good to drink on release but comfortably age worthy for 15-20+ years. (32,000 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Glenelly Estate Lady May 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot aged for 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Dense dark and opaque in the glass with incredibly potent and pure fruited aromatics of creme de cassis, saline black currant, cherry tobacco, grilled herbs and subtle vanilla pod spice nuances. The palate embraces power and density showing fine chalky tannins, a real black and blue fruited intensity with just the most classically restrained, harmonious and elegant finish. This is a phenomenal red wine that registers quality wise in the highest of echelons of Cape Bordeaux Blends.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tasting the 2025 vintage barrels with cellar master Dirk van Zyl.
Six months on gross lees in stainless steel tank. Shows lovely clarity and purity, earthy waxy citrus, hints of lime peel, peach and grapefruit pulp. Delicious crystalline expression.
(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Glenelly Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 12.5% Abv.
A portion of the wines was settled in tank but a portion went straight into barrel. 22% new French oak, on the lees in barrel for 10 months. 18% underwent malolactic fermentation. Shows a classy creamy lemon butter character, complex green herbs, fresh fennel, yellow grapefruit and tangy lemon cordial nuances. Very impressive purity and poise with a delightful kiss of passion fruit on the finish. Very nice.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Fermentation cellar at Glenelly
Glenelly Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13.1% Abv.
Six months in barrel of which 12% was new oak. Bottled beginning 2024. Aromaticly lifted with green dried baking herbs, sapidity and hints of white peach. The wine shows a fine texture and a light weight buttery citrus fruit character, with plenty of elegance and a long subtle finish. Fine boned but very classy.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Glenelly Estate Le Rose de May Rose 2025, WO Stellenbosch, 12.5% Abv.
Delightfully sappy and fragrant showing strawberry fruit notes with hints of red currant and red cherry fruits. The Syrah lends a linearity, focus and purity with a cool, polish finished. Lovely freshness and a finessed accessibility. Top drawer Rose.
(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The 2021 Lady May will be released in May 2026. The Glenelly wines are imported into the UK and distributed to trade by Seckford Agencies. Contact: pippa@seckfordagencies.co.uk
With a bottle of 2021 Book XVII from De Toren winery waiting to be tasted and reviewed, I thought I’d revisit a couple of their 2020 releases to recalibrate my palate. The Book XVII Cape Bordeaux Blend was born from a pursuit of excellence blended with a passion for craftsmanship, isolating the very best that nature has to offer, commencing with the maiden 2010 vintage release. The name Book XVII was inspired by one of the first pieces of literature dedicated solely to wine and extreme viticulture methods written over two millennia ago by Roman philosopher, Pliny the Elder. 15 years later, the Book XVII blend has become an integral part of the De Toren icon wine range, with this unique super premium red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec born from a desire to craft a wine that could stand confidently amongst some of the greatest premium red wines in the world. The result of this devotion to precision is an incredibly limited production of a mere 6 barrels and an irresistible, lush red blend with a hedonistic depth and impressive purity and complexity.
Book XVII is the result of 20 years’ exhaustive recording and analysis of countless vineyard variables in the Polkadraai Hills, from soil composition and weather conditions to oceanographic influences. With modern viticulture methods, bold experimental winemaking, and masterful use of various Bordeaux barriques, Book XVII now ranks among the top Cape Bordeaux Blend expressions produced in the Cape winelands. Unashamedly luxurious, ripe and hedonistic in style, this wine has never looked to mimic anything else produced in the Cape, and as a result, has comfortably cultivated a loyal consumer following both at home and internationally.
De Toren Book XVII 2020 Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 15.15% Abv.
2.7g/l RS | 5.4g/l TA | 3.59pH
It is always fascinating cracking another vintage of one of De Toren’s icon wines as I have seen, in person, the attention to detail that is performed both in the vineyards and in the winery to capture the purest essence of quality from their exceptional Polkadraai Hills vineyards in Stellenbosch. The 2020 release is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, and 19% Cabernet Franc that was aged for 22 months in 100% new 225 litre French oak barrels. This impressive 2020 Bordeaux Blend is another opulent and generously constructed red with alluring aromatics of dusty crushed granite, freshly shaved cedar wood spice, wet tobacco leaves over hints of dried violets, black currant herbal tea, black cherry and a spicy capsicum note. Surprisingly mineral and restrained on the nose, the palate is a little more upfront and fleshier but with all components of fruit, acid and tannin so meticulously integrated so as to present a wonderfully synergistic red blend with a seamless transition between the sweet inky black berry fruits, the spicy cedar and tobacco complexity, and a fine-grained mineral-laden dry tannin finish. Incredibly youthful still and deserving of further time in the cellar, this is nevertheless a very impressive premium red wine honed for the most sophisticated of global connoisseurs. Drink now after a decant and over the next 10 to 15+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Two of De Toren’s three ultra-premium wines along with their Black Lion Syrah.
De Toren Patronus Malbec 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
Created to try and craft one of the most exceptional expressions of this grape cultivar in the Cape winelands, this bold hedonistic ultra-premium red is made from decades-old Malbec vines in the Polkadraai Hills, with individual bunches hand-picked and then individual berries selected. Three distinct vessels were used for whole berry fermentation, each chosen to highlight the opulence, purity and typicity of premium Malbec. Predominantly matured in new French oak barrels, the results on the 2020 are suitably impressive. The aromatics resonate with plush, ripe, intense notes of blue berry and black berry fruits, sappy mulberries, and black plum with delicate undertones of vanilla pod spice, complex cedar oak and exotic Christmas spices. The palate shows the accessible opulence of the 2020 vintage, broad, deep, and powerful under a creamy, concentrated fleshy textured veil of velvety tannins and soft, integrated acids. Opulent and hedonistic in every sense of the word, this is an incredibly impressive expression of Malbec, the grape that is currently having a massive love affair with the Cape’s terroir. Drink now on release or cellar for 10 to 15+ years.
In the early 18th century, the north of the Médoc peninsular offered exciting investment opportunities for the high society of the time, and Jean-François de Pontet figured prominently among the aristocrats of the day and among the high-ranking magistrates that shaped the vast horizons of the new Médoc vineyards. The Pontet-Canet vineyard, located in the commune of Pauillac right next door to famous neighbour Chateau Mouton Rothschild, covers 81 hectares (200 acres). It is made up of around one hundred plots and 800,000 vines looking out over the Gironde estuary. At the heart of the Pontet-Canet terroir known as the “plateau”, a gentle broad outcrop of Garonne gravel soil dating from the Günz era that sits on a bedrock of limestone – prime terroir for producing elegant yet robust Bordeaux reds.
Pontet Canet is located on prime Pauillac terroir next to some illustrious neighbours.
At Pontet Canet their biodynamic approach has, in the Tesseron’s view – the current owners – brought a new dimension to their wines. It has given them “greater depth while producing more precise and silky tannins. The length of flavour on the palate has also gained in minerality. Our wines are purer and more vibrant.”
So, as one of the top cult Cru Classe wines of the moment, I thought I’d compare and contrast four current vintages customers might be tempted to buy.
Vintage Highlights:
2020 Vintage
The winter was mild, continuing into spring, which was also very wet. There was dry and warm weather for the early flowering in the second half of May. This was followed by very warm and, importantly, arid conditions from 18th June to 11th August. There were then heavy, rapid thunderstorms, often overnight, which dropped huge volumes of water on the Left Bank, but less on the Right Bank. Harvest was dry and very warm, with only intermittent rain after 20th September. From early October, it turned very wet again. Now firmly remembered as an “années solaires.”
2021 Vintage
Bordeaux 2021 will be remembered as an extremely mixed vintage. The challenges faced by producers were very localised and much depended on each individual vigneron’s decisions at key moments. These challenges were: a warm spring; a very rainy spring and early summer; mildew; a cool July and early August; hail; rain in September; and, finally, rot. Yet, despite this litany of problems, many producers were much more positive than they had dared hope during the season. Of course, 2021 is not a warm and sunny (or hot) vintage in the vein of 2018, 2019 and 2020. The harvest was only possible towards the end of September and into October for the Cabernet Sauvignon. But the best wines seem to have captured a natural and classic freshness, elegance, and weightless finesse – for some palates, a welcome contrast to the power of the preceding years. However, the wines were probably still over priced at En-primeur.
2022 Vintage
The word was out early that the Bordelais felt they had something special in 2022, long before the world’s wine merchants arrived to make their own assessments at En-primeur. Heatwaves and drought are not usually parents to high-quality wines. However, the wines in barrel confounded merchants’ expectations, with most agreeing that the 2022 vintage was indeed a special one across Bordeaux. Despite the lack of water, the vines did not seem to suffer terribly, remaining in leaf and in good health right up to the harvest. The berries were small and so yields were restricted. All varieties were beautifully ripe, so much so that some properties felt no need to produce any second wines, many opting rather to increase the proportion of press wine in the final blend, such was its quality. Predictably, release prices were very high!
2023 Vintage
In Bordeaux as in many top wine producing regions of the world, it’s a recurring curse to be the vintage that follows a truly exceptional year like 2022. Consider 2001 and how it was overshadowed by 2000; or 2006 by 2005; or more recently, 2021 by 2020. Overlooked they may have been, but these vintages have since proven themselves to offer years of joyful drinking. It would be a great shame if 2023 sat undiscovered in the shadow of the superb 2022s, with early tastings at various top châteaux revealing it to be indeed a delightful, opulent, fruit laden vintage. While the vintage doesn’t quite have the density and power of the 2022’s, there are many examples of superb Cabernet Sauvignon on the Left Bank and wonderful Merlot, particularly from St Emilion’s limestone. The wines have purity and transparency, beautiful freshness, and a charming immediacy with more intensity than the 2021’s. Prices were more modest but were of course coming down from previous highs in 2022, which somewhat mitigated the markets enthusiasm to buy this charming vintage.
Chateau Pontet Canet 2020, Pauillac, 13.5% Abv.
Dense dark and plush, packed full of blue and black berry fruits, hints of cherry kirsch liquor and brown breakfast toast on the nose. Texture is plush and creamy, with a medium weight and a fine-grained tannin, finishing with a melange of black berry fruits, vanilla spice and delicate soft acids. Undoubtedly rich, opulent and ripe without being hedonistic. Drink now to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Pontet Canet 2021, Pauillac, 13% Abv.
A much tighter broodier aromatics with graphite and iodine, pithy black cherry and saline creme de cassis and a dusting of Pauillac gravel minerality. The texture is light, silky and delicate with dry sultry tannins and a very elegant, stony, black fruited finish with a kiss of cedar spice. Light touch, polished but still very seductive. Drink now until 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Pontet Canet 2022, Pauillac, 14.5% Abv.
From 2022 in a new bespoke branded lighter bottle that still looks the part. The nose shows plush blueberry crumble, black plum and black cherry confit with a kiss of vanilla pod spice. Sweet fruited with a fine powdery chalky tannin texture, the concentration is notable, the finish long, dry and mouth coating but certainly lacking no freshness. This is undoubtably a very impressive wine but priced accordingly! Drink now to 2045+.
A budding fresh barrel sample, interestingly, this bottle is a little further on its journey from examples tasted at En-primeur week. The fruits are dense and ripe, the aromatics unctuous, beautifully layered with black berry compote, salted caramel, warm blueberry crumble and hints of mocha and warm brown toast. The savoury, brûléed hint follows to the plush, dense, opulent palate that shows fine grained tannins, a weightless concentration and a pinpoint fine tannin structure. A bold, ripe Pauillac style expressing the opulence and hedonist nature of the 2023 vintage. Drink now to 2045+.
