The Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative is comprised of 56 families and 100+ hectares of solely Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6th of the vineyards of the appellation. Produttori del Barbaresco’s mission is clear – “Excellence in Simplicity” – and if there is one wine that encapsulates everything this incredible co-op stands for, then it must be their Langhe Nebbiolo.
The 2023 vintage in Piedmont was considered tricky as conditions were seldom steady, but overall, some good wines were made. The growing season began with a mild but wet spring. While the mild temperatures were conducive for budbreak, the intermittent rain elevated the risk of disease. However, in a break from the rain, a sudden cold snap brought frosts which damaged some of the vines.
Although the damp conditions continued into the first month of summer, the rains finally dried up only to be replaced by a series of heatwaves. At their peak, temperatures were hitting 40 degrees C. The upside of these hot conditions, however, was that it cut the threat of disease, and the grapes that did survive were well-placed to reach full phenolic ripeness. As the harvest drew to a close, the heat of the season dissipated and a slight chill took hold, even delivering a rain shower or two. For Nebbiolo, the cooler temperatures, particularly at night, brought a welcome respite while preserving vital acidity and aromatics. The majority of grapes were picked in mostly favourable conditions, and whilst not an easy vintage, some very good wines were made.
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2023, 14% Abv.
A very light translucent ruby red colour belies a wine that shows an intensely rich, ripe, fragrant fruit driven aromatics packed full of red plum jam, red cherry, Pink Lady red apples, and cranberry notes over earthy aniseed, fennel root spice and subtle cinchona quinine bark nuances. The palate entry is intense yet majestically soft and seamless with polished stony tannins that melt into a tangy, bright mouthwatering red cherry acidity. The finish is energetic and pithy, delicately phenolic with red apple spice, a delicate sapidity and a long juicy finely textured finish. Always a top class wine that overdelivers vintage after vintage, the 2023 release carries on this tradition. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Produttori del Barbaresco wines are imported and distributed in the UK by Astrum Wines.
In a vintage shaping up globally to be one of the most sought-after in almost a decade (with perhaps the unfortunate exception of Bordeaux), the wines of 2021 continue to impress and woo the critics internationally, and the incredible new releases from the appellation of Barbaresco are certainly no exception.
This Piedmont region enjoyed another mild winter with plenty of rain and some snow, which turned out to be essential over the course of the rest of a vintage where rainfall was at its lowest level in recent years, finishing hot and fast with heat continuing well into September. The wines from 2021 are incredibly energetic, fresh and texturally exciting with the vintage already being tipped by local vignerons to be one of the truly great years with wines showing pristine fruit purity, piercing intensity, together with a majestic, classical Nebbiolo structure.
While much of Barolo has succumb to the pressures of a buoyant, thirsty international fine wine market over the past few years, Barbaresco defies the odds and remains incredibly well priced but also very much Barolos equal in terms of quality, complexity, age ability and simple winemaking precision. I recently tasted a pre-release sample of probably THE greatest value for money Barbaresco on the market from Produttori del Barbaresco, and needless to say, I was not left disappointed!
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2021, Barbaresco DOCG, 14.5% Abv.
Showing a super bright piercing aromatics of pressed red cherry, saline black berries and tart cranberry fruit complexity with fragrant undertones of polished mahogany, damp earth and a delicately herbal, floral potpourri spice melange. The palate is sleek, fulsome and absolutely brimming with tart juicy red and black Nebbiolo fruits that support an incredibly tight, fine grained tannin structure, with notes of cherry cola and pink rock candy, finishing with a sleek, sumptuous, supple sappy mineral persistence. This cooler vintage has delivered a Produttori del Barbaresco expression that surpasses possibly even some of the previous non-declared / declassified Cru Barbaresco expressions where all nine Crus were blended together into the Barbaresco normale. A simply spectacular, mouth watering wine once again.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Produttori del Barbaresco wines are imported exclusively into the UK and are available to trade from Astrum Wines.
The Burlotto family winery was established in Verduno, one of the most historic communes in Barolo, 174 years ago and today the winery produces classical Barolos with one eye firmly on tradition and the other on modernity, focusing on making wines with a real soul and an incredible sense of place. It is undoubtedly this unwavering classicism, a resolute focus on premium quality and attention to detail that has helped elevate Burlotto into the ranks of one of the most sought-after cult Barolo producers, comfortably rubbing shoulders with other iconic names likes Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno and Guisseppe Rinaldi – all of which are now desperately difficult to buy at first release prices.
After the death of their founder, Giovan Battista, the winery passed into the hands of his son Francesco, and then again, after Francesco died prematurely, to his grandson Ignazio. Courageous and far-sighted, Ignazio found himself alone at the helm of the company navigating through the most challenging periods of time during world war II. He was the only vintner of the region who continued to produce varietal Pelaverga wines, growing grapes on his own and buying small quantities from neighbouring farmers.
Ignazio Burlotto passed away in 1968, the year in which the winery passed to his daughter Marina, then only seventeen years of age. Marina, with her husband Giuseppe Alessandria, and their children Fabio and Cristina, represent the fourth and fifth generations at the helm of this historic company. With the 2020 Barolos due to arrive on the market soon, I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to have a closer look at the last three vintages of Burlotto’s Barolo ‘normale’ seeing as these are the wines people are most likely to have in their cellars rather than the super delicious – but super rare – Barolo Monvigliero cru.
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2017, 14.5% Abv.
The 2017 is an elegant expression of Nebbiolo with fragrant aromatics of polished mahogany, sweet red cherry, black berry, tar, roses and aniseed root. The palate texture is elegant and silky with fine powdery dry tannins supporting a medium to light weighted palate density where the spicy tannins and peppery herbal notes dominate a delicately translucent red and black fruited concentration. Certainly a beautiful interpretation of Barolo from a so called ‘lesser’ vintage but perhaps lacks the opulence and intensity of a riper vintage like 2016 or the accessibility of 2018. Drink now or hold comfortably for another 5 to 8+ years. But best enjoy the 2017s while the fruit is still in its ascendancy.
(Wins Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2018, 14.5% Abv.
The 2018 Burlotto Barolo is not only a classical beauty, but at its core, it possesses a wonderfully sweet, fleshy elegance and a delicious accessibility with aromatics packed full of ripe red cherry, rose petals, orange peel and vermouth spices with a hint of candied cherry bon bons. On the palate, there is a softer, less tannic spiciness than the 2017 expression, accompanied by a sweet fruited fleshy core with a notable elegance and genteel silky opulence. Fabulous balance is the order of the day, and this is certainly a wine that is incredibly pleasurable to drink now and over the next 8 to 10+ years, so bury a few bottles away in your cellar.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2019, 14% Abv.
The 2019 Barolo is made from fruit sourced from a vineyard with southern exposures at lower elevations bordering on the famous Monvigliero cru. While still noticeably youthful and taut, the aromatics offer up perfumed notes of rose petals, vibrant red cherries, ruby grapefruit, iron filings and sweet cardamon pod herbal nuances. There is a fabulous translucent clarity and an orange peel-tinged fruit purity to the wine together with tight grained powdery tannins and a chalky drying mouthfeel. Never short of freshness, even in warmer, riper vintages, the balance and equilibrium on this wine is astonishing, with a tight knit core of Verduno fruit power expertly interwoven into a complex minerality and a weightless intensity. A reassuringly classical vintage that impresses with its structural precision and polish. Drink on release if you must, but the 2019 vintage will certainly benefit from further cellaring.
Gaja’s Barbaresco red is often seen as the flagship wine of the Gaja estate considering their three Crus are not produced every vintage. Indeed, it is the consistency of quality of this wine that has helped give the entire Barbaresco appellation the reputation it now holds today. The 2020 offering is blended from 14 vineyards situated in the municipality of Barbaresco which covers around 21.4 hectares and the vines have an average age of 45 years old, with each vineyard lot fermented and aged separately for one year before the final blend is made.
The 2020 vintage was characterized by frequent rainfalls that for various reasons can be defined as atypical. Rains were overall above average (the total annual average has been 900 mm in the Barbaresco area compared to the usual 800mm), and the distribution instead of being in winter and spring, was concentrated in the summer months; and surprisingly, despite the very frequent summer thunderstorms, for the first time in many years, none of the vineyards were damaged by hail storms.
Giovanni Gaja presenting the 2020 vintage.
The heat spikes in mid-August and in September from the 10th to the 18th helped with grape maturation and the reaching of final ripeness. Significant temperature variations characterized the rest of September and October, favouring colour and aroma development as well as the overall health of the grapes. The harvest of the Nebbiolo grapes started on September 18th and ended on October 8th.
Gaja Barbaresco 2020 DOCG, Piedmont, 14% Abv.
Light ruby coloured with a brilliant translucence, the 2020 is sleek, powerful, linear and brightly fruited with powdery fine grained mineral tannins over potent peppery red berry aromatics, Asian spices, red cherry and pithy wild strawberry. Medium bodied, ultra-pure and magnificently floral with tantalising salty red liquorice nuances make this an incredibly pretty but substantial expression of Nebbiolo that finishes with creamy, drying stony tannins, a crushed limestone minerality before a final reprise of tangy red cherry pastille. A very impressive Gaja Barbaresco vintage that will drink well from release due to its incredible finesse and elegance but will of course be exponentially better in 4 to 5 years’ time. Yet again, Gaja produces a class act!
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Gaja wines are imported exclusively into the UK for trade by Hatch Mansfield and are available retail from specialist fine wine merchants like Museum Wines. http://www.museumwines.co.uk
Poderi e Cantine Oddero was established in the late 18th century by the Oddero family, who have lived in La Morra since the first half of that century. In the 1890s, Giovanni Battista Oddero began vinifying grapes, which lead to the winery’s establishment. Later, his sons, Lorenzo and Luigi followed in his footsteps. It was the first Giacomo Oddero, who started selling wine in bottles. However, it was the second Giacomo Oddero, who renovated the ancient farm and began elevating the quality and prestige of the region’s wine. Today, his legacy lives on through his daughter, Mariacristina, and his grandchildren, Isabella and Pietro, who represent the seventh generation of vinicultural tradition.
Early reports of the 2019 Piedmont vintage described it as a classic year. A cold wet spring slowed vine growth and the persistent rain made rot and disease a threat. However, despite the added risks, the rains gave the soils the much-needed water to survive the warm summer months. June then delivered a fantastic summer with the hot, dry days lasting through to August when a hailstorm broke loose. Good conditions swiftly picked up again and idyllic weather continued into September. Many of the grapes, particularly Nebbiolo, benefitted from the warm days and juxtaposing cool evenings.
Oddero is one of a handful of producers in Barolo who own tracts of the famous and highly sought after Cru Vigna Rionda.
However, a significant thunderstorm, as a final threat to the growing season, struck in early September followed by a nasty hailstorm which, depending on the vineyard, cut yields significantly particularly in Barbaresco. Good conditions allowed the harvest to begin early in September and picking began for both white grape varieties and early-ripening red varieties in the first week, while later-ripening varieties were picked towards the end of the month and into October. The resulting wines reached good phenolic ripeness forecasting good things to come with wines likely to have good fruit character, impressive structure and balancing acidity.
ODDERO LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2020
A taut, fairly reserved aromatics leading with earthy aniseed root, earthy red cherry, tilled earth, chalk dust and red apple skins. Palate is sleek and structured, tight yet generous with hints of tarragon spice, red peppercorns, red cherry and tangy bitter blood orange peel on the finish. A serious effort, with a stern frame, soft but fresh acids and a long harmonious finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BARBARESCO CRU GALLINA 2020
Wonderfully elegant and perfumed styling to this pretty Cru Gallina that shows rose petals, potpourri, red cherry and raspberry herbal tea. The palate shows incredible focus and precision, pristine purity and a fine grained texture bursting with red cherry, cranberry and tart red currant. Fabulously polished marble tannins frame this beautifully harmonious Barbaresco. Very impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO 2018
A blend of Crus including among others Bricco del Fiasco, Villero, Capelot, Rocca di Castiglione, Monvigleiro, Bussia, etc. This wine is lovely and expressive, exotic and complex with deep, rich, sweet red and black cherry notes, kirsch liquor, blood orange, vermouth, subtle reductive saline cassis notes and hints of tar and black liquorice. The palate is beautifully polished, silky yet potent, with creamy powdery tannins, an opulently plump mid-palette and multiple textural layers of red strawberry and black cherry, kirsch and aniseed spice under a veil of smoky minerality. The pedigree of a top producer shines in this pure fruited benchmark estate blend. Bravo!
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Pietro Oddero describing the 2019 vintage at an exclusive UK pre-release tasting.
The New 2019 Releases
ODDERO BAROLO 2019
Another cracking vintage delivers impressive depth and complexity on the nose and palate. The aromatics are expressive and perfumed with rich layers of pressed rose petals, red and black cherry, saline reductive black currant leaf, salty liquorice and subtle caramelised strawberry hints. The palate shows an impressive harmony and an opulent fleshy mouth-filling depth of fruit while retaining sufficient muscle, structure and shape. Vibrant and mouth-wateringly juicy, this is truly an unmissable Barolo normale that will thrill serious Nebbiolo lovers. Drink from 2024 and over the next 10 to 15+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO CRU BRUNATE 2018
A pretty wine with a certain amount of lift and overt perfume already. But still tightly knit and taut aromatics with hints of glacé cherry, red plum, aniseed and vermouth macerated oranges. The palate has purity and precision yet lacks nothing in the power department. Wonderfully sleek, mineral and spicy, you feel the power, the assertiveness and most definitely the precision of polished tight grained tannins. I’m always a fan of top Cru Brunate and this beauty definitely impresses again. Most certainly youthful but undoubtedly there’s a super seductive essence to this wine. I’m totally sold!
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO CRU BRUNATE 2019
Always an impressive Cru in great vintages, this is a rich, perfumed potent Brunate with aromatics of red cherry, dried herbs, tea leaf and a complex spearmint and cinamon lift. The palate shows a generous volume of red and black berry fruits, a plush fleshy mid-palate depth and delicious stony mineral layers that melt seamlessly into a juicy red cherry and spicy, earthy cranberry length. Pin point Barolo perfection. Simply superb!
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO CRU ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE 2019
A lovely individual expression of Nebbiolo that reveals rich earthy, savoury red and black bramble berry fruits, sun dried cherry, aniseed stick and dried fennel seeds. The palate is broad and muscular with a fine grained mouth coating mineral tannin, spicy sweet baking herbs and a broody, fleshy finish with subdued berry fruits. Bury this beauty in the cellar for at least 5 to 8 years and your patience will be rewarded.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO CRU VILLERO 2019
This shows a darker fruited expression than the Brunate but still with plenty of overt appeal, tar and roses, smokey reductive saline cassis and sweet earthy black cherry nuances. The palate boasts a generous, fleshy, fruit forward opulence with seductive showy red and black berry concentration, sweet fleshy tannins and a long, creamy, mouth-coating candied finish. Fabulous depth, plenty of fire power and undeniable class.
A much bolder, riper, deeper red expression with lush, broody, opulent aromatic layers of black cherry, liquorice, caramelised red cherry, vanilla pod and a broody, exotic earthy blood orange depth. Super plump, dense, focused yet deliciously spicy, taut and linear with frame and tension. Certainly enough extract and stuffing on the palate to allow this to age for quite a few more years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO CRU BUSSIA VIGNA MONDOCA 2017
Another potent, focused, powerful expression of Nebbiolo with piercing aromatics of black cherry, kirsch, melted black liquorice, polish mahogany and smoky hot tarmac. The complexity follows to the palate, showing a surprisingly silky, spicy, accessible elegance, a delicately fleshy savoury red and black berry fruit concentration, caramelised vanilla pod hints and a long, plush, finessed finish. A real beauty and an absolute triumph for the vintage! Ready to go now.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
ODDERO BAROLO CRU VIGNA RIONDA RISERVA 2016
This is one of the most coveted Crus of Serralunga d’Alba, an exceptional place where Barolo and Nebbiolo expresses itself in a truly unique way. The 2016 shows a complex set of aromatics in the glass revealing layers of earthy truffle, savoury red fruits, smoky cured meats, bresaola, salty liquorice, tar and roses and a subtle smoky hint of reduction. There’s a savoury, earthy red fruited ethereal power veiled under extreme textural elegance, salty concentration and focused mineral length. Vigna Rionda’s mystery lies in the sum of its characteristics and is manifested perfectly in a wonderful 5 star vintage like 2016. A true wine for connoisseurs and collectors alike. Make space in your cellar!!
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Oddero wines are available to UK trade from their exclusive importer Astrum Wines.
This famed co-operative in Piedmont dates back to 1894; forced to close in the 1920s because of fascist economic rules, it was regenerated and revived in 1958 by the village priest of Barbaresco who recognized that the only way the small properties could survive long term was by joining forces and combining their efforts.
Today the cooperative is comprised of 50 families and 100+ hectares of solely Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6th of the vineyards of the appellation. With village Barbaresco and the crus pushing such high prices, attention once again has reverted to some of the great Co-ops who traditionally produce some of the regions best value for money wines. Produttori del Barbaresco’s mission is clear – “Excellence in Simplicity”.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2021, 14% Abv.
An impressively substantial wine yet again from Aldo Vacca and this world famous red wine Co-operative. The wine has a real presence showing complex aromatic layers of wild herbs, dried blood orange, botanicals, vermouth spices over pink musk, red cherry and candied red berry fruits. The palate is sumptuously muscular, plump and fleshy, but beautifully mellow and harmonious with a massive red and black berry fruit concentration, spicy herby tannins and an incredibly bold, vibrant acidity that once again underpins the fabulous depth of fruit and fleshy opulence. This is the real deal, a substantial Nebbiolo that simply sings in the glass. Bravo Aldo! I don’t know how you do it, year in and year out, but the Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2021 is an absolute winner. Drink on release and over 10 to 12 plus years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2019, 14% Abv.
High expectations for this new release coming from such a highly lauded vintage, the 2019 does not disappoint. Bold and punchy from start to finish, the nose boasts a multi-layered melange of lavender, violets, ripe red and black cherries, botte oak spice, potpourri and perfumed bathroom soaps. Seductive and muscular, the palate is as bold as it gets with a rich vein of textured mineral tannins over dense, sweet pithy berry fruits before the finish is overwhelmed by a chalky, spicy, stony minerality. This is a very serious piece of kit with high aspirations and serious intent that is sure to seduce serious Piedmont Nebbiolo collectors.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wines available to the trade in the UK from Astrum Wines. Langhe Nebbiolo retails for circa £25-£26pb and the Barbaresco for circa £40pb Inc. Vat.
As the world gets back to normal after pandemic disruptions, new fine wine releases are also slowly getting back on track and becoming more frequent. Today I was privileged to join one of my favourite wine personalities, Gaia Gaja, for a true celebration of 20 years of Ca’ Marcanda including a tutored tasting and a preview of the fabulous new 2019 releases.
Magari is an Italian expression holding different meanings: “If only it was true…!” or “I wish…!” It is said to carry a sort of irony which usually leads people to smile, and I can tell you this Magari 2019 certainly made me smile with pleasure. Undoubtedly always one of my favourite cuvées in the range that includes the Promis and Ca’ Marcanda flagship Rosso, once again the superb Magari expression delivers something very special indeed.
The entrancing Gaia Gaja resplendent in the London Spring sunshine of Pall Mall.
Made from fruit grown on classic dark Bolgheri soils rich in limestone and clay, the three varieties were fermented and macerated separately for around 15 days before circa 12 months of oak barrel ageing. The maiden release was vintage 2000. Watch out for all the new, incredibly serious but seductive releases from Gaja Ca’ Marcanda Bolgheri.
The 2019 Magari is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. Showing taut broody aromatics in its youth, this is a very serious linear Magari that needs coaxing to come out and play. Wonderfully dark fruited with cool limestone minerality, lavender, graphite and subtle oak spice notes, the palate is incredibly fine and polished, super precise and harmonious with a five star balance and intensity. The finish is cool, creamy and beautifully pure with smoky creme de cassis and a pithy black cherry elegance that very slowly melts away on the long, persistent finish. Stern but seductive and very serious! Bravo Gaja! Drink from 2024 to 2044+.
This famed co-operative in Piedmont dates back to 1894; forced to close in the 1920s because of fascist economic rules, it was regenerated and revived in 1958 by the village priest of Barbaresco who recognized that the only way the small properties could survive long term was by joining forces and combining their efforts. Today the cooperative has 56 members and 100+ hectares of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6th of the vineyards of the appellation.
Their Langhe Nebbiolo in particular has long been one of the greatest and most profound value reds on the international wine market, recognised and lauded unanimously by critics far and wide. With the new 2020 releases, it will of course take some time before a more complete assessment of the vintage can be formed and final conclusions made about the potential quality of the embryonic Barbaresco and Barolo wines in barrel. But like much of Europe, Italy experienced a warmer than average growing season in 2020 which resulted in an earlier than usual harvest. Current evidence suggests that the earlier ripening varieties like Barbera were picked in great health, while the warm days and cool nights proved perfectly suited for the late-ripening Nebbiolo grapes.
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2020, 14% Abv.
Produttori del Barbaresco makes its Langhe Nebbiolo with declassified Barbaresco fruit (often from parcels on lower slopes) so production volumes are notably reduced in the better vintages when more of the prime fruit finds its way into their delicious village Barbaresco DOCG or indeed one of the classy nine Cru Riservas. This young 2020 Nebbiolo certainly shows great promise with an immediately attractive array of aromatics that boast dark cherry, damson plum, sweet herbs, blood orange and a slight menthol top note. Always wonderfully intense and potent, the palate displays a medium bodied weight of red and black berry fruits, macerated strawberries and sweet cherries with an underlying cool, suave elegance and a fresh acid vitality. The finish is creamy and plush with soft plump tannins, subtle piquant black liquorice notes and a pure, weightless length. Delightfully streamlined and accessible, this 2020 continues a fine run of vintages for Produttori del Barbaresco. Drink from release and over 5 to 8 years.
One of the oldest and most famous producers in Barbaresco, Giuseppe Cortese makes some of the regions most classically proportioned wines from their eight hectares of vineyards, over four of which are located in the iconic Cru of Rabaja. Producing wines according to traditional methods but using the latest modern winemaking technology, Azienda Agricola Cortese has managed to bridge the gap between high quality and affordability.
With new vintages recently released and on their way to the UK, today I tasted a snap shot of their new wines with one of their main importers, Wood Winters UK.
Giuseppe Cortese Langhe Bianco DOC Scapulin 2019, 12% Abv.
Using spontaneous Chardonnay fermentation in stainless steel before being divided into an amphora, a stainless steel and a large French old oak portion in roughly thirds for 9 to 10 months ageing before being blended. The nose shows hints of flinty stony reduction with almond skins, limestone, white citrus and dried herbs. The palate is sleek, polished and textural with leesy, pithy almond skins, wet river pebble stony nuances and a long, full, smokey finish with just a hint of marzipan. A lovely gastronomic expression of Chardonnay. Drink now to 2028+.
(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Giuseppe Cortese Morassina Barbera d’Alba 2016, 14.5% Abv.
Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques and large oak casks, the aromatics show lovely pure red and black berry notes with violets, cherry cola, red plums and earthy strawberries. On the palate the vibrancy and freshness shines through with a well balanced, integrated lick of oak, plenty of sweet spices, red liquorice and a fleshy full textured red fruited depth that is creamy and utterly seductive. Impressively balanced and harmonious, this is a whole lot of classy wine for the price.
(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Giuseppe Cortese DOCG Barbaresco 2018, 14.5% Abv.
Only produced since 2017, this second release shows a lovely translucent garnet ruby colour and an elegantly restrained nose of dried herbs, potpourri, red cherries, cola, blood orange and a hint of melted tar. The palate is cool and supple, texturally creamy and mineral with a lovely full mouthfeel, bright tart cherry acids, sweet red berry fruits and a fine stony mineral red fruited length. Very accessible now but retains enough stony fine grained mineral tannin tension to make this wine age worthy. Drink now to 2030+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Giuseppe Cortese DOCG Barbaresco Rabaja 2018, 14.5% Abv.
The is a darker, broodier expression of Nebbiolo with plenty of black berry fruits, liquorice, tar, sweet truffle oil and tilled earth nuances intertwined with complex cedar spice and sappy sandalwood notes. The palate is bold and powerful with silky but potent mineral tannins, graphite spice, salty black liquorice and a long stony, pithy black cherry finish. A delicious expression that is surprisingly seductive now but will age for a decade or more.
After a high quality 2015 vintage that produced ripe, well structured wines, the mesmerising 2016 vintage came along and took the global market for Barolo and Barbaresco by storm. Luscious, powerful and structured but with incredible balance, freshness and intensity, 2016 was certainly a vintage that was not going to be forgotten in a hurry.
With impossible expectations set for the 2017 Barolo releases, this hot, dry and much more challenging vintage was never going to be an easy sell to the mainstream collector market especially after so many customers had dug deep into their pockets to go long on the lauded 2016s. But great wineries are capable of producing accomplished wines even in the tricky vintages especially when the fruit comes from a high class vineyard site like the Cru Margheria in Serralunga.
Cantina Luigi Pira Barolo Margheria 2017, 14.5% Abv.
The Luigi Pira 2017 Barolo Cru Margheria is an exotically perfumed expression from this warmer, dryer vintage showing complex aromatics of purple flowers, violets, pink musk, hints of cherry cola, salty red liquorice, creme de cassis, tart blueberries and melted tar. The tannins are sweet and powdery, fine grained and mouth-coating, balanced by a wonderfully juicy, tangy tart red cherry acidity and a plush textured mineral grip. The 2017 is slightly more accessible and slimline than the block buster 2016 but no less seductive, elegant and alluring. Another very impressive and expressive Cru Barolo from Pira. Drink this now on release and over 10 to 12+ years.
