A Volcanic Voyage of Wine Discovery: Part 3/3 – Tasting some DOC Etna Contrada Archive Wines from the Benanti Winery…

August 13, 2026August 13, 2026 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Etna Rosso wines, built primarily around Nerello Mascalese with a splash of Nerello Cappuccio, ages more like Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir than a typical southern Italian red. Its pale colour and firm tannin-acid backbone are deceptive – the wines have real structure beneath a fragile-looking surface. Young Etna Rosso shows red cherry, wild strawberry, and volcanic basaltic minerality, often with a smoky, ashy edge from the soil. Over 8–15 years, the fruit shifts toward dried cherry, orange peel, and forest floor, while tannins soften and the wine gains a translucent, garnet hue. High-altitude vineyards and old, ungrafted vines (many over a century old, planted on their own volcanic roots) tend to produce the most age-worthy examples, with the acidity of the terrain acting as a natural preservative.

Etna Bianco, dominated by Carricante, is one of Italy’s most underrated ageable whites. Young versions can seem austere, showing citrus, green apple, and saline minerality, but within 5 to 10 years, they develop a honeyed, waxy, almost Chablis-like complexity, retaining remarkable freshness thanks to their high natural acidity and elevation-driven diurnal swings. This ability to age gracefully sets Etna Bianco apart from most Sicilian whites, which are typically made for early drinking.

Salvino doing a vintage masterclass in London.

The Benanti Winery, one of the estates most responsible for reviving Etna’s reputation in the 1990s, makes a strong case study for this longevity. Their single-vineyard wines: Rovittello and Serra della Contessa for Rosso, and Pietramarina for Bianco – are built specifically with cellaring in mind. Pietramarina in particular is renowned for improving for well over a decade, its Carricante freshness gaining an added texture and nutty depth while never losing its volcanic edge. Tasting older Benanti vintages reveals wines that don’t just survive time but are transformed by it, proof that Etna’s mountain terroir, more than any winemaking trickery, is the true source of its ageability.

Benanti Archive Vintage Notes:

Benanti Etna Bianco 2020, 12% Abv.

Bold and taut with an expressive maritime salinity, savoury flor style salty aromatics, crunchy green pears and yellow apples. The palate show lovely concentration and richness, piquant basaltic spice and herby sweet sour intensity. Lovely depth with a long, seductively white peach finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Bianco 2019, 12% Abv.

Quite a taut, mineral aromatic profile with citrus peel, white blossom and maritime sea breeze salinity. The palate is bright, crisp and steamy, erring on the leaner, more linear style of Carricante.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Bianco 2017, 12.5% Abv.

Fragrant lifted, perfumed nose with bold notes of crunchy green pear, green apple pastille, chamomile tea and flinty, mineral, white peach notes. The creamy textured palate has bright acidity, pithy tart green apple and unripe orange peel spice notes. Lovely balance with a fine mellow mineral complexity.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Rinazzo’ 2022 Etna Bianco Superiore, 12% Abv.

From bush trained Carricante vines planted at 800 metres. Fermentation and ageing all in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts. The aromatics are sweet fruited and piercing, boasting honey suckle, Wriggleys bubblegum, green apple, yellow stone fruits and hints of wet straw. The palate is dry and pithy, the acidity bright and steely, structured, taut and beautifully linear and saline with hints of oyster shell and basalt. The finish is crystalline and pure, beautifully balanced and harmonious with focus and intensity.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Contrada Rinazzo 2021 Etna Bianco Superiore, 12.5% Abv.

Lovely savoury aromatics with hints of wet basalt, oat meal, lemon pith, oyster shell, crushed gravel, dried kelp and sea breeze nuances. Vibrant, mineral and rasping, there’s a brightness, freshness and energy over a restrained, briney wet stone, mineral bitter lemon, quinine persistence that leads you to a long, maritime-tinged finish. Classical and classy.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Contrada Rinazzo 2018 Etna Bianco Superiore, 12% Abv.

From the village of Milo, which allows it the Superiore designation, this is made in stainless steel fermented with propagated indigenous yeasts from their vineyards, left on lees for 12 months with stirring followed by an additional 6 months in bottle. The nose displays notes of yellow orchard fruits, an oxidative leesy salinity and a honey suckle, “sun wine” savoury character. More breath and textural depth of restrained fruit weight too than the straight Bianco but finished bone dry with a twang of rock salt. Very young but should develop beautifully.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vertical tasting of Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Pietra Marina’:

Wines from the unique site of Milo located on the eastern slopes of Etna at 800 metres of altitude.

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Pietra Marina’ 2020, 12.5% Abv.

A beautifully aromatic white with intricate notes of white flowers, freshly sliced pear, delicately savoury lees, lemon biscuits and plenty of the discreet, telltale saline basaltic minerality. Spending circa 30 months on lees, the palate is weightless and pure, intense and saline with subtle bitter lemon, sea breeze and an oyster shell finish. A quietly spoken wine that really shows an understated authority and intensity. Superb finesse.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Pietra Marina’ 2019, 12.5% Abv.

More pithy, lifted and citrus driven with an incredibly harmonious aromatic array of yellow grape fruit, leesy biscuit, basalt, white pear and sea breeze nuances. Such elegance and poise, this is a truly complex and intricate white with plenty of interest, minerality but also intense pithy citrus, bitter lemon intensity. Beautifully volcanic, salty and stony, but with a balancing dry fruit extract. Simply astonishing how complete and characterful this wine is. A seafood paring dream.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Pietra Marina’ 2015, 12.5% Abv.

First vintage produced was 1990. The wine spends 24 months on its fine lees in stainless steel followed by 12 month ageing in bottle. Grapes are sourced from the best and oldest vines in the commune of Milo and forms part of the tiny quantity of Superiore Blanco produced on Etna.

Wonderfully complex nose of crushed basalt, struck match and reductive smokey mineral notes. There are underlying notes of sweet pear, lemon herbal tea and boxwood spice and rock salt. Palate is steely and taught, bright and tart with complexing notes of fresh fennel, white peach, and citrus blossom, finishing with a most intense rocky, liquid minerality and maritime salinity. Very young but shows immense potential.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Pietra Marina’ 2011, 12.5% Abv.

With just a bit of tertiary age characters, the bouquet shows lovely notes of bruised white peaches, old honey, leesy spice, chamomile tea, white citrus, pomace stone and hints of diesel-fuel. The savoury note carries to the palate buoyed by intense liquid minerality, pear purée, bruised waxy apples and a sensation of sucking on wet river pebbles. The finish remains tart and fresh with a pronounced maritime influence.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Pietra Marina’ 2001, 13% Abv.

Golden pale honey yellow, the nose show rich oxidative tertiary development with nuances of bruised peaches, meal biscuits, savoury white citrus and piquant aged, Riesling-like characters of diesel rag. The palate retains its bright acidity and liquid mineral mouthfeel with brine, resinous sappy spice and yellow apples on the finish. Earthy, volcanic and savoury, this is a complex mouthful.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Cavaliere’ 2022 Etna Bianco, 12% Abv.

Made from 100% Carricante, the aromatics show a sophisticated mix of white flowers, yellow citrus and white pear fruits with a pronounced undertone of basaltic volcanic minerality. The fruits are saline and pithy with herbal wet river stone minerality, green apple and delicate herb infused pear drop fruit nuances. Sleek crystalline texture, delicate weightless concentration and a salty maritime finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Red Archive Vintages:

Benanti Nerello Cappuccio ‘Contrada Cavaliere’ 2016, 13.5% Abv.

A fine pure rendition of this rare Sicilian variety. Bottled unblended as an IGT label, it shows an attractive stainless steel expression with deliciously pure aromatics of bramble berry, black currant, sappy flinty spice and earthy reductive complexity. Tightly wound, there are juicy berry flavours of stewed strawberry, creamy mineral tannins and supple notes of liquorice, salty black cherry and graphite on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso 2016, 13.5% Abv.

A traditional blend of Nerello Mascalese sand Nerello Cappuccio, the nose is perfumed and penetrating with sweet Fraisse des Bois, bramble berries and savoury red plum. Finely poised, creamy dry mineral tannins and a harmonious, bright, fresh red berry and basalt rock finish. Lovely concentration and length.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Contrada Monte Serra’ 2016, 14.5% Abv.

Another fine Etna blend, the aromatics show more depth, power, minerality and also potpourri and red strawberry and red cherry fruit concentration. The palate is supple and fleshy with a deliciously alluring flavour spectrum of saline cassis fruit twinned with bright acids and linear, savoury tart plum and a red bramble berry finish. Really complex and already deliciously accessible but with age worthy aspirations.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Cavaliere’ 2017 Etna Rosso, 14.5% Abv.

100% Nerello Mascalese from 50 year old vines (permitted by the DOC since 2012) shows an intense, perfumed, savoury tinged aromatics of sun dried cranberries, ripe red cherry, and almost Nebbiolo like aromatics of tar and roses. Palate is cool and creamy with pronounced crushed stone minerality, cherry skins, sandy tannins and a long bramble berry finish with attractive botanical vermouth notes.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Cavaliere’ 2021 Etna Rosso, 14.5% Abv.

Intense and fragrant in the glass, the aromatics show richer, riper notes of red and black bramble berry fruits, strawberry compote, orange rind and subtle sweet vermouth botanical spices. On the palate the extra flesh and weight is evident, coating the mouth with sweet pithy red plum, red currant and spicy basaltic mineral tannins. Deliciously accessible and sweet fruited, the structure is preserved with vibrant acids and a drying stony minerality on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vertical tasting of Benanti Etna Rosso Cru ‘Rovittello’: (single vineyard)

Rovittello is the name of the vineyard on the northern slopes of Etna comprising of a natural field blend of 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Capuccio.

Benanti Etna Rosso Cru ‘Rovittello’ 2014, 13.5% Abv.

28 to 24 months in large oak barrels with at least 12 months ageing in bottle. Already beautifully perfumed and expressive, with violets, cherry blossom, saline cassis, sappy spice and dusty red cherry and graphite spice. The purity of the fruit shines on the palate with crystalline notes of sweet cherry, forest fruits, Pinot Noir nuances, mineral herbal grip and sappy, stalky Dujac’esque complexity. Bright pure acids, deliciously concentrated fruits and tantalising macerated strawberry finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso Cru ‘Rovittello’ 2011, 14% Abv.

Slightly darker, bloodier nose with layers of black salty licorice, salty cassis, sweet red bramble berries and savoury macerated strawberries. The palate is soft, plump and harmonious, quite mellow and spicy but with dusty powdery tannins, dry chalky grip, layered with sweet cherry fruits, tart bramble berries and a graphite and liquid mineral tension on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso Cru ‘Rovittello’ 2001, 14% Abv.

A fine garnet red colour, the nose shows pronounced tertiary savoury notes of wood spice, tannery leather, polished mahogany and sweet orange wine punch. Cool, spicy creamy textured palate, there is super juicy acids, bright tart sweet / sour cherry fruit notes, an element of linearity and a salty, dry, graphitey, grippy red liquorice finish. Delicious.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vertical tasting of Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Serra della Contessa’:

(Single vineyard old vine plot in Monte Serra)

90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio from 110 year old ungrafted vines on the south eastern slopes of Etna. Matured for 18 to 24 months in large oak barrels, none new, from France and Slavonia. Stays 12 months in bottle before release. First vintage was 1998.

Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Serra della Contessa’ 2014, 13.5% Abv.

Bright tart lifted, energetic nose with intense notes of red cherry, dried rose petals, potpourri, saline cassis and sweet red apples. Palate shows a marvellous Burgundy meets Piedmont character with linear, taut black berry fruits, sweet forestry red berry intensity and a concentrated, plush, powerful, velvet in a silk glove approach. Deliciously fine and regal.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Serra della Contessa’ 2011, 14% Abv.

A couple of years extra bottle age lend this Cuvee a real aromatic boost with less of the pretty roses and violet perfume and more savoury blood orange, earthy pomegranate and dried leather complexity. The palate is plush, fleshy and grippy with sweet orange peel, tangerine and sweet savoury red berry earthy notes. Drinking beautifully with a fine balance between fruit freshness and tertiary forestry complexity. Lovely.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Serra della Contessa’ 2001, 14% Abv.

An earthy, forestry expression with nuanced tertiary aromas of basalt, sweet grilled herbs, dried orange peel, stewed strawberries, sweet tannery leather. The palate follows with more fleshy sweet herby forest berry fruits, stewed red plums, rosemary and savoury aniseed root complexity. Plenty of power and grip, this is really delicious as it reaches its maturity zenith.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Rovittello Particella No.341 Etna Rosso Riserva Alberello Centenario 2018, Etna Rosso Riserva DOC, 14.5% Abv.

A beautifully aromatic complexity expressed through volcanic, basaltic notes of limestone, soap stone, gravel and dried flowers with potpourri, sun dried cranberry and cherry fruit hints. Always described as possessing a character that transects Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, this wine certainly has the spicy, mineral texture of Piemonte with liquorice and tar, roses and dried orange peel, with a voluptuous glycerol old vine depth that goes on and on and on. Wow, this has got to be one of the top 3 wines I’ve ever tasted from Etna. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Next Benanti Press Tasting:

Benanti Brut Carricante 2021 Metodo Classico Spumante, IGT Terre Siciliane, 12% Abv.

24 month Metodo Classico using pure Carricante, made under consultation with a Francia Corta specialist. The aromatics are dusty and stony with a basaltic minerality, notes of pithy pear, peach blossom and honeysuckle. The salinity kicks in on the palate with a briney salty kick, delicious pear and white peach with tart green apple acidity and a pity, phenolic mineral grip. Mouthwatering, delicately sappy, decidedly maritime in feel but also beautifully accomplished with a creamy, explosive mousse. Very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Cavaliere’ 2022 Etna Bianco, 12% Abv.

Released in April 2024. Made from 100% Carricante, the aromatics show a sophisticated mix of white flowers, yellow citrus and white pear fruits with a pronounced undertone of basaltic volcanic minerality. The fruits are saline and pithy with herbal wet river stone minerality, green apple and delicate herb infused pear drop fruit nuances. Sleek crystalline texture, delicate weightless concentration and a salty maritime finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Rinazzo’ 2022 Etna Bianco Superiore, 12% Abv.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

(Some Carricante were planted in 2020 and released in 2024)

Benanti ‘Contrada Monte Serra’ Etna Rosso 2022, 14% Abv.

A harmonious offering with a uniquely complex mix of basaltic minerality, dried herbs and delicate pithy, stony notes of red cherry and cranberry spice. Taut, tight and mineral, layered with subtle pithy red berry fruits, fine grained tannins and a long, classical, maritime-tinged finish with just a hint of warmth.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Contrada Monte Serra’ 2021, 14.5% Abv. (Magnum)

Deliciously earthy brambly fragrant aromatics showing notes of succulent sweet cranberries, red plum, pomegranate and blood orange with a delicate sweet 5 spice dusting. The palate is medium bodied and beautifully polished and harmonious with a stony fine grained texture, invigorating red berry acids and a savoury, brambly earthy intensity on the finish with a comforting warmth.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso Riserva Particella No.587 ‘Serra della Contessa’ 2017, Alberella Centenario, 13.5% Abv.

The pure, pristine aromatics are majestically fragrant and perfumed, packed full of candied red cherry, bramble berries, cranberry and delicately dusty, smoky, basaltic, mineral notes. Medium bodied but tight grained and concentrated, the palate complexity is enticingly salty and mineral with a powdery, creamy mid-palate, chalky drying tannins, finishing with real purity and bright intensity.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso ‘Contrada Dafara Galluzzo’ 2022, 14.5% Abv.

Deep dark broody smoky aromatics, made from younger vine 100% Nerello Mascalese, aged for 12 months in French Tonneau. The aromatics are dense, dark fruited and fully loaded with phenolic red and black berries, dried flowers, plum confit, liquid minerality and tarry, tangy, black cherry confit note on the finish. Plenty of intense fruit concentration, smoky mineral black berries and a delicately chewy, drying grippy saline finish. Powerful, complex but mouth watering.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Etna Rosso Riserva Particella No.341 ‘Rovittello’ 2017, Alberella Centenario, 14% Abv. (Magnum)

A taut, linear expression boasting aromatic layers of perfumed white blossom, pink musk, red berries, saline black currant and black liquorice stick. The palate texture is taut but beautifully polished, tight grained and mineral but with an airy, ethereal crystalline weight and purity, finishing with a picante, mineral, basaltic persistence. This has the weightless concentration of young Grand Cru Burgundy with a taut, wound spring tension that ties it all together beautifully.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Calderara Sottana’ 2021 Etna Rosso, 14.5% Abv. (Magnum)

An incredibly complex and intricate aromatics in the glass bursting with cranberries, sweet red plum crystallised red cherry and red apple. The basaltic minerality vein runs comfortably through the palate showing incredibly sleek, silky stony tannins, wet stone minerality and a pithy, red cherry and cranberry finish. All the complicated volcanic minerality distilled into a superb, accessible package. Really very fine.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Monte Serra’ Etna Rosso 2020, 13.5% Abv.

A complex aromatics of bramble berry notes over strawberry, cranberry and defined hints of truffle and mushrooms. The palate is crystalline, pure and incredibly focused and precise with chalky, basaltic red cherry, cranberry and sour red plum. Really classy, mineral and harmonious.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti ‘Contrada Serra della Contessa’ Etna Rosso Riserva 2017, 14% Abv.

This is an incredibly rich, intense powerful wine with seductive, expressive aromatics of sweet liquorice, tar, saline black plum, and pithy black cherry. The palate is silky and seamless but also beautifully chalky and textured with dry extract, glycerol black cherry, fleshy jammy black berry and a delicately spicy, kelpy, compote saline finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Benanti Nerello Cappuccio (Contrada Cavaliere) 2020, IGT Terre Siciliane Rosso, 13.5% Abv.

A pure rendition of this rare Sicilian variety. Bottled unblended under an IGT label at Etna Rosso is reserved for Nerello Mascalese, it shows an attractive stainless steel purity with notes of savoury black berries, sappy bramble fruits, milk chocolate and raspberry compote. Bright and crunchy in the mouth, there’s a lifted cedar spice, led pencil peppery note with chalky mineral grippy tannins, a medium bodied weighting and a cool, cherry cola tinged finish kissed with a resinous nuance. Subtle rusticity done very well.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Benanti Wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Woodwinters. Contact: Andrew@woodwinters.com for pricing and allocations.

A Volcanic Voyage of Wine Discovery: Part 2/3 – The DOC Etna Contrada Wines of the Benanti Winery Tasted and Reviewed…

July 23, 2026 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Benanti Viticoltori is one of the founding estates and market leaders of modern winemaking on Mount Etna, based in Viagrande on the volcano’s southeastern slope since 1988, when founder Giuseppe Benanti set out to prove the region’s unique volcanic terroir potential. Today the family estate, now run by sons Antonio and Salvino, is widely credited with putting DOC Etna on the world fine wine map.

Benanti’s whites are all made from 100% Carricante, Etna’s indigenous white grape, that are vinified in stainless steel and never aged in oak to protect their terroir expression. Grapes come from vineyards on the eastern and southern slopes, primarily Contrada Cavaliere and Contrada Rinazzo, prized for their high elevation and abundant light, with vines aged between 20 to 60 years old, some trained as traditional Alberello bush vines. The results are pale, mineral-driven wines with maritime salinity, pithy citrus, and green apple characters, of course epitomized by their flagship Pietra Marina Bianco, a Carricante Superiore from ancient vines near Milo considered one of Italy’s most age-worthy whites.

The reds centre on Nerello Mascalese, either bottled as a mono-varietal or blended with a small amount of Nerello Cappuccio, grown in volcanic, mineral-rich soils across Etna’s different Contrade vineyard sites. These wines range from the everyday drinking DOC Etna Rosso to prestigious single-vineyard Riserva bottlings like Rovittello and Serra della Contessa, prized for their elegance, red fruit character, structure and clear volcanic minerality. Together, Benanti’s reds and whites showcase the remarkable diversity of Etna’s terroir.

On the second day of my DOC Etna visit, I was hosted by Antonio and Salvino Benanti at the Benanti Winery tasting room in Viagrande, next to the Contrada Monte Serra vineyards, where I was shown their full line-up of red and white wines as well as several back vintages for extra context. My full notes are below. Benanti only use local yeast strains that were isolated and selected since 2005 from four different remote Carricante and Nerello Mascalese vineyards far from any commercial wineries. Only these four selected yeasts are used today.

1 Benanti Noblesse Brut Carricante 2018 Metodo Classico, IGT Terre Siciliane, 12% Abv.

Sourced from Eastern slope vineyards of Etna, bottled spring 2019 and disgorged 14th Feb 2023. Aged 48 months on its lees with zero use of oak. Produced since 2002, the 2018 shows complex notes of sweet sappy honeysuckle, leesy biscuit, stony basaltic notes with hints of dried wild herbs and briney nuances. The palate is enticingly nutty and savoury, layered with pithy citrus peel, salted brioche and a subtle maritime salinity. Beautiful freshness and balance, delightfully flavourful and really quite delicious. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

2 Benanti Etna Bianco 2025, DOC Etna Bianco, 12% Abv.

This Etna Bianco displays an incredibly expressive aromatics packed full of Sicilian lemons, brine, maritime salinity and dried baking herbs over hints of peach skins and a stony basaltic minerality. The palate shows a cool elegance, delicately supple and sleek with soft integrated acids, a crystalline briney concentration with a light to medium body, finishing with salted pears and a hint of white peach. Very attractive and approachable with a refreshing accessibility. Drink now to 2034+. (100,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

3 Benanti Contrada Cavaliere 2024, DOC Etna Bianco, 12% Abv.

Made from 100% Carricante grapes that spend 12 months in stainless steel tanks post fermentation. The aromatics show a subtle dusty, flinty reduction with layers of white blossom, basaltic mineral spice, white pepper, crunchy pear, and dried herbal nuances. The palate reveals a fine concentration, delicately fleshy and pure with a crystalline fruit clarity, green pear and salty, pithy green apple with a delightfully tart, intense, characterful finish. Drink now to 2034+. (Circa 7-8,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

4 Benanti Contrada Monte Serra 2024, DOC Etna Bianco, 12% Abv.

Made from around 1.2 hectares of Carricante grown on very light, sandy soils, the aromatics are contrasting to the Contrada Cavaliere Bianco being more delicate, sappy, and leafy with green fruits, dried herbs and savoury, pithy bruised yellow orchard fruit notes. The underlying saline, briney, sappy character carries to a cool, sleek, elegant palate which shows subtlety, textural harmony, and a stony, basaltic maritime salinity on the tangy finish. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

5 Benanti Contrada Rinazzo 2022, DOC Etna Bianco Superiore, 12% Abv.

From the unique Bianco Superiore village of Milo, this single site Contrada wine shows an incredibly intense, saline aromatics with a pronounced kerosene like pungency with a dusting of sweet baking herbs, lime peel, leafy sapidity and oystershell nuances. The volcanic basaltic minerality lurks ever present, the concentration notably punchy, profound and intense, layered with greengage, white peach and subtle green apple notes with yet more salinity and maritime characters on the long, persistent finish. An astonishing volcanic white expression drinking beautifully now. Drink now to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

6 Benanti Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore 2021, 12% Abv.

The highest, most sandy vineyard in Rinazzo is generally used for Pietra Marina, although the exact designation is drawn from various “higher” eastern facing slopes. All aged in stainless steel, this 2021 shows a notable richness, aromatic density and intense maritime depth, with a chiselled complexity of almond skins, tangerines, orange peel pith, white peach and wet basaltic minerality. Full, plush and compact on the palate, there is a defined depth and density, an unctuous weight that is elevated by an astonishing salinity, a honied peachiness, and a superbly well integrated acid freshness. Undoubtedly one of the great white island wines of the world. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

7 Benanti Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore 2020, 12.5% Abv.

Considered a more ‘regular’ vintage on Etna compared to the hotter, more solar vintage characters across Italy and the Mediterranean. The nose reveals delightful aromatics with defined notes of briney salinity, hints of honey and kerosene, sapidity, and savoury, dried baking herb mealy nuances over yellow orchard fruits. The palate is impressively saline and pithy, heavily mineral laden with a wet stone intensity, but quite harmonious and balanced with an effortless concentration and balance. This wine is sitting in a beautiful sweet spot at the moment. Drink now to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

8 Benanti Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore 2016, 12% Abv.

This 2016 is only just starting to show an inkling of tertiary development while remaining essentially fresh and mineral. Beautifully complex, the aromatics reveal notes of kerosene, diesel rag, lime peel, dry honey, white toast, waxy bergamot and chamomile tea nuances. Fabulously cool, harmonious and ‘complete’ on the palate, the crystalline purity shines, enlivened by the maritime salinity, basaltic stony minerality and a delicately savoury, briney finish. Gently evolving, this wine shows this vineyard’s true ageing credentials at 10 years old. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

9 Benanti Nerello Cappuccio 2024, IGT Terre Siciliane Rosso, 13.5% Abv.

The opulent aromatics show beautifully lifted, perfumed aromatics of wild bramble berries, sweet pithy strawberry, saline black currant and undertones of sapidity, cherry pipe tobacco and dried cigar wrapper. Soft, vibrant and plush in the mouth, the ripeness coats the palate showing none of the rusticity this grape is known for. The palate is medium to full bodied, compact and dense, yet effortlessly concentrated with pithy red and black berry fruits, a sturdy Basaltic mineral tannin backbone and a well-integrated, tangy brightness on the finish. A wonderfully unique and characterful wine. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

10 Benanti DOC Etna Rosso 2024, 14% Abv.

Since 2011, Etna Rosso was not required to be blended anymore by DOC regulations. But Benanti Etna Rosso remains a blend to this day, using varying quantities of between 10% and 15% of Nerello Cappuccio in the final cuvee. The aromatics are beautifully perfumed and lifted, showing the vintages concentration and intensity of red and black berries, red cherries, sweet cranberry and a delicate wild bramble berry spice. The palate is cool, silky and pinpoint pure, effortlessly elegant with silky stony tannins, a complexing minerality, and a delicate, succulent, spicy berry fruited finish. Such a classy, refined expression of Etna Rosso making it one of the benchmarks of the region. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

11 Benanti Contrada Monte Serra 2022, DOC Etna Rosso, 14% Abv.

This unique volcanic site shows a pronounced minty, perfumed, black berry aromatics with pithy strawberry, thyme and dried baking herbs over the ever present basaltic minerality. Soft, cool and supple in the mouth, the texture is fine grained but exceptionally elegant, fresh and pithy, beaming with a stony, volcanic minerality. Perhaps a little softer and more supple than some other Contrada, this Monte Serra is accessible, generous and a genuinely delicious crowd pleaser. Drink now to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

12 Benanti Contrada Dafara Galluzzo 2024, DOC Etna Rosso, 14.5% Abv.

This beautiful Nerello Mascalese shows a deeper, darker, broodier black cherry and black berry aromatics with a pronounced salty maritime character, hints of black liquorice, basaltic minerality, dried flowers, wild strawberry and a delicate kelpy nuance. The palate texture is quite strict, framed by vibrant acids and a chalky, stony mineral tannin frame that keeps the wine restrained, pure, and quite firm and fine. Very impressive precision and focus with a chiselled intensity. Serious and seriously delicious. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

13 Benanti Contrada Dafara Galluzzo 2022, DOC Etna Rosso, 14.5% Abv.

A ripe, intense expression that shows piercing aromatics of salted black liquorice, dried flowers, potpourri, pink musk and sweet exotic baking herbs. The palate is dark fruited, intensely saline and supple with a light to medium bodied weight, a sleek stony mineral vein and an effortlessly accessible character that makes this wine so delicious and inviting. The length is fabulously long, the black berry compote and black salty liquorice notes lingering on the concentrated finish. A very serious wine, but in many ways, quite a crowd pleaser as well. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

14 Benanti Contrada Calderara Sottana 2024, DOC Etna Rosso, 14% Abv.

The newest Contrada in the Benanti range, the first official vintage was 2020 with increased volumes produced in 2021. The whole vineyard is 0.8 hectares of Nerello Mascalese, produced on dark, rich, sandy, stony volcanic soils that yield powerful aromatics of black plum, saline black currant, pithy black cherry and stony, mineral basaltic notes. The texture is silky and incredibly fine grained, almost powdery, with pinpoint pure mineral tannins, supple integrated acids, massive density and a long, harmonious, concentrated savoury finish. This is a wine that really surprises you with its power, precision, and regal depth. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

15 Benanti Serra della Contessa Particella No.587 Alberello Centenario 2020, DOC Etna Rosso Riserva, 13.5% Abv.

DOC Riservas can’t be released before four years from harvest requiring at least 12 months ageing in barrel. This wine spends between 24 to 30 months in large oak before bottling, being aged another year or more in bottle before release. The vines were planted in early 1900s on their own rootstocks, producing a wine of profound depth and intensity. The aromatic breadth and depth are notable, the extra barrel ageing adding a complexing wood spice that combines with deep, broody black berry notes, pithy black cherry and salty black liquorice, finishing with chalky, drying stony tannins, saline black currant fruits and delicate graphite hints. This is a contemplative wine, regal and powerful, bold and confident, demanding your attention without too much exuberance. Wow, really something special. Drink now to 2045+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

16 Benanti Serra della Contessa Particella No.587 Alberello Centenario 2016, DOC Etna Rosso Riserva, 14% Abv.

Now 10 years old, this distinguished old bush vine cuvee is showing an attractive depth and complexity, brimming with deliciously inviting aromatics of raisined black cherries, black currants, and salted liquorice with a delicately sappy, leafy undertone. The fruit character is bold and plush on the palate, the acids softening, allowing the texture to coat the mouth with notes of stewed black plums, molasses, and black cherry compote. 2016 stands as a supremely harmonious, balanced vintage with real accessibility, balance and developing tertiary complexity. Drink now to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

17 Benanti Rovittello Particella No.341 Alberello Centenario 2020, DOC Etna Rosso Riserva, 13.5% Abv.

The old vine parcel within the Contrada Dafara Galluzzo vineyards, the Rovittello 2020 is a supremely complex, intense expression displaying a pronounced saline, kelpy, black currant intensity over black berry, black cherry and delicately reductive, graphite nuances. The palate texture is fresh, lithe but intense and supple, the tannins loosening up to release the real salty black liquorice and black currant fruit intensity of these old vines. Impressively powerful and imposing, but also effortlessly sleek, classy, and accessible without shouting too loudly. This is a profound expression that redefines the essence of old vine Etna Nerello Mascalese. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

18 Benanti Rovittello Particella No.341 Alberello Centenario 2016, DOC Etna Rosso Riserva, 14% Abv.

This is simply a sublime expression from old vine Nerello Mascalese even though it is technically a field blend with a few Nerello Cappuccio vines co-planted. But this 2016 simple hits a new high, an aromatic Zenith of red and black fruited perfume, a delicately leafy sapidity, cherry pipe tobacco, and tightly interwoven basaltic mineral undertones. The balance and purity here is next level, the sweet tannins displayed boldly with no over ripe flavours to obscure the Northern Etna terroir minerality, the saline liquorice nuances and the black cherry fruit persistence. A profound wine on any global fine wine yardstick. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The wines of Benanti are imported exclusively into the UK by wine merchant Woodwinters. Contact Andrew@woodwinters.com to request allocations and trade pricing.

A Volcanic Voyage of Wine Discovery: Part 1/3 – The Contrade of Etna and the Fine Wine Terroirs of the Benanti Winery…

July 15, 2026July 15, 2026 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest and most active volcano, is also home to one of Italy’s most distinctive wine appellations. Established in 1968 as Sicily’s first Denominazione di Origine Controllata, DOC Etna occupies a semi-circular band on the volcano’s slopes, with vineyards ranging from roughly 450 to over 1,000 metres above sea level. What makes Etna extraordinary is not simply its altitude or its volcanic soils, but the astonishing fragmentation of its terroir.

*The formidable active volcano of Mount Etna.*

Within this single appellation, the mountain is divided into named districts called Contrade, a system now formally recognized, with over 140 individually mapped zones based on historic lava flows, property boundaries, and family holdings dating back generations. Wine writers frequently compare this regional structure to Burgundy’s climats, since each Contrada represents a discrete parcel whose soils, exposure, and microclimate can differ meaningfully from its neighbour just a few hundred metres away, even though both may fall under the same broad DOC rules governing grape varieties and yields.

*The soils around Etna are classified by the age of the lava flows. This is a recent 2002 eruption that destroyed a hotel and ski resort.*

The Contrada system exists because Etna’s geology is not uniform. The volcano has erupted repeatedly over thousands of years, and each eruption deposited a distinct sciara, or lava flow, that weathered over time into its own particular soil structure, sometimes sandy and free – draining, sometimes dense with clay, sometimes strewn with porous lava stone.

*The vegetation is also denser on the older lava flows, it normally taking 60 to 100 years before small trees are able to grow on the decomposing lava. The above soils are from the 1865 eruption.*

Combined with the mountain’s four differing slopes, each with its own rainfall patterns, sun exposure, and proximity to the Ionian Sea, the result is a patchwork of microzones capable of producing wines with dramatically different character even when made from the same two principal grapes: Nerello Mascalese and, to a lesser degree, Nerello Cappuccio for red wines, and Carricante for the appellation’s whites.

*Northern vineyards in Contrada Calderara Sottana near Randazzo looking South to the volcano, planted to mostly Nerello Mascalese.*

*Benanti Winery is one of the island’s leaders in recording and analysing temperature, wind, and precipitation data across their vineyards through multiple mini weather stations.*

High altitude Nerello Mascalese vineyards in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo near the town of Rovittello, east of Randazzo. Here you will also find Benanti’s Alberello Centenario vines that go into their iconic Rovittello Etna Rosso Riserva.

The northern slope, generally considered the historic core of quality winemaking, tends to produce structured, tannic, mineral-driven reds from older, more decomposed lava soils. The eastern slope, cooled by sea breezes and higher rainfall, is Carricante’s traditional home, particularly around the commune of Milo, the only zone permitted to use the elevated Etna Bianco Superiore designation. The southern slopes, both southeast and southwest, offer warmer, sunnier exposures on comparatively younger volcanic soils, yielding wines that often show softer fruit and earlier approachability.

White Carricante vineyards in the Eastern Contrada Rinazzo, near the village of Milo, over looking the sea. This is the only Contrada that qualifies as Etna Bianco Superiore and is also home to the famous ‘Pietra Marina’ blocks on the highest slopes.

*Looking west up to the volcano from the Contrada Rinazzo Carricante vineyards.*

No producer illustrates this diversity more completely than Benanti, as I discovered on my recent trip to Sicily in mid-June 2026. Founded in 1988 by businessman Giuseppe Benanti under the original name Tenuta di Castiglione, the estate is today widely credited as the modern pioneer of fine winemaking on Etna, and it remains the only winery farming vineyards on every slope of the DOC zone. Rather than blending fruit from scattered plots into a single generic Etna Rosso or Bianco, Benanti has built its identity around vinifying individual Contrade separately, treating each site as a distinct expression of the mountain, an approach that mirrors, quite deliberately, the single-vineyard philosophy of Burgundy.

*Vineyards in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo near the village of Rovittello.*

In the north, Benanti’s holdings center on Contrada Dafara Galluzzo, in the district of Rovittello near Castiglione di Sicilia, at roughly 750 metres of elevation. This site sits on some of the oldest, most decomposed lava on the mountain, part of the geological layer locals call Mongibello antico. The vineyard is planted exclusively to Nerello Mascalese, including a small parcel of pre-phylloxera, ungrafted centenarian vines. This is the source of Rovittello, Benanti’s founding red wine and one of the estate’s flagship labels, along with the more recent Rovittello Riserva.

Wines from this northern site are typically described as aristocratic and austere, marked by firm tannins, deep earthy notes, and possess considerable aging potential, qualities widely associated with the northern slope’s cooler, higher-altitude character and older soil substrate.

*Co-owner Salvino Benanti explaining the Contrada wines on the northern slopes.*

On the eastern slopes, Benanti farms Contrada Rinazzo in the commune (and town) of Milo, a steep vineyard of small stone-walled terraces facing the Ionian Sea just a few miles away. Because Milo is the only area within the DOC permitted to produce Etna Bianco Superiore, this site is planted entirely to Carricante, trained in the traditional alberello, or head-trained bush vine, method. The area’s rainfall, humidity, and fine-grained volcanic soils encourage excellent water retention, producing whites of notable saline minerality and structure. From the higher, less sandy terraces here comes Pietra Marina, Benanti’s celebrated single-vineyard Etna Bianco Superiore and the wine that helped establish Carricante’s international reputation; the remainder of the site yields the more approachable Contrada Rinazzo bottling.

*Terraced vineyards around the winery in the Contrada Monte Serra near the town of ViaGrande.*

*Old Alberello Centenario Nerello Mascalese vines in Contrada Monte Serra, that are used for the Serra Della Contessa Etna Rosso Riserva.*

To the south, Benanti’s story becomes slightly more complex, since the estate actually holds sites on both the southeastern and southwestern flanks of the volcano. The historic heart of the winery is Contrada Monte Serra in Viagrande, on the southeastern slope, where the family has grown grapes since the late nineteenth century and where the estate’s headquarters now sits amid extinct volcanic cones and red pumice soils known locally as ripiddu. This is a mixed-variety site, home to Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and some Carricante, and it produces both an Etna Rosso and an Etna Bianco under the Contrada Monte Serra label, as well as Serra della Contessa, a Riserva sourced from a tiny plot of centenarian, pre-phylloxera vines at the estate’s highest point.

*Benanti’s southwestern vineyards in Contrada Cavaliere, looking north towards Mount Etna. Here Benanti grow Carricante, Nerello Mascalese and a little Nerello Cappuccio.*

*Young Carricante peaberry grapes in Contrada Cavaliere in mid-June.*

*New Benanti vineyard plantings in Contrada Cavaliere.*

Further southwest, in Santa Maria di Licodia, Benanti also farms Contrada Cavaliere at around 900 metres, a partnership dating to the mid-1990s, where intense light and dramatic diurnal temperature swings on comparatively younger volcanic soils yield taut, high-altitude wines.

Taken together, Benanti’s five Contrade function almost as a working demonstration of Etna’s terroir diversity: northern structure and longevity, eastern saline precision, and southern warmth and earlier accessibility, all expressed through the same handful of native grape varieties. In this sense, Benanti’s portfolio is less a conventional producer lineup than a cartographic argument – proof, bottle by bottle, that the mountain is not simply one terroir but many great terroirs capable of producing some incredibly profound white and red wines.

(Watch out for Part 2 where I review Benanti’s full range of current wine releases, and then Part 3, where I highlight archive vintages from the winery, going back more than two decades.)

I travelled to DOC Etna in mid-June 2026 at the invitation of the Benanti winery, accompanied by their exclusive UK importer, Woodwinters. Contact Andrew@woodwinters.com for more information on allocations and trade pricing.

Benvenuto Brunello Arrives in London Profiling the Sensational New 2021 Vintage Releases…

June 13, 2026June 13, 2026 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Welcome to Benvenuto Brunello, the celebrated international wine tasting premiere that is held annually in the heart of Montalcino. In 2026, Benvenuto Brunello arrived in London! So, as we look toward to the 2021 vintage, the event marks a historic milestone: the debut of a year that critics are already calling a “vertical masterpiece.” While Benvenuto Brunello 2021 (the event) originally introduced the resilient 2017s, the 2021 vintage itself – now hitting the world stage in 2026 – is the new crown jewel of the appellation and looks to be a vintage getting global critics very excited.

The 2021 vintage was born from a year of dramatic contrasts, beginning with a sharp spring frost that naturally thinned yields, followed by a warm, stable summer. The resulting wines are defined by their “al dente” structure – vibrant, deep, and remarkably precise. Unlike the solar warmth of 2020 or the operatic power of 2019, the 2021s offer a refreshing return to aromatic transparency, mineral classicism, and nervous energy.

At this year’s exciting London preview, tasters found Sangiovese in its most elegant form: floral, savoury, and built for decades of cellar ageing. For collectors and enthusiasts, Benvenuto Brunello remains the essential early compass for navigating these releases, celebrating a vintage that perfectly balances Montalcino’s rugged Mediterranean soul with sophisticated, modern finesse.

Altesino Rosso di Montalcino 2024

Rich plummy nose packed with berry fruits. Fleshy, soft and deliciously full in the mouth.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Delicately reductive with saline cassis, black cherry and wood smoke. Sleek mineral tannins, supple, pure and precise with a beautiful balance.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosili 2021

Richer, broader savoury black berry aromatics. Delicately sappy, showing wood spice, black berries, balsamic and a plummy depth with a telltale salinity. A very complete wine.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino 2024

Bright and lifted with fragrant candied red cherry fruits. Good depth and fleshy concentration, soft acids and an accessible, generous opulence.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Smoky spicy black cherry notes with hints of violets, wild herbs and wood spice. Finely poised, cool, creamy and elegant with a superb fruit – acidity balance and sufficient creamy tannins.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa 2021

Deep, dark and broody, showing balsamic, black cherry and botte barrel wood spice. Plush, ripe and concentrated, layered with black berries and liquorice over a more prominent structure.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino 2024

Bright, vibrant lifted aromatics, violets, red cherry and a delightful raisined cranberry fragrance. Sweet, plush and slightly reductive and saline, this is a very smart, polished expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2021

A very expressive aromatics, perfumed, precise and full of pink musk and candied red cherry fruits. Lovely concentration, fleshy mid-palate and a long finish with stony grippy mineral tannins.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo 2021

Aromatics of fragrant pressed violets, lavender and savoury red cherry fruits aged for 24 months in large oak. Intense and focused, tightly textured with powdery tannins and a long, spicy, freshness on this limestone site. Very impressive..

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Lovely vital, savoury, perfumed aromatics with hints of red berries, cured meats and grilled herbs. Beautiful breadth and depth with an extra bit of bottle complexity and textural sophistication. Compact, powerful with a good mineral back bone.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Intricate aromatics with red and black berry fruits, red liquorice and delicate notes of tar and dried herbs. Compact and textured, there is impressive depth, elegance and understated power. A very serious expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Famiglia Maté Brunello di Montalcino 2021

A deep broody aromatics show sweet Christmas spices, tar, liquorice, balsamic and botte oak spice notes. Silky soft and precise, there is impressive focus and freshness, a supple fleshy concentration and a cool, harmonious finish with good persistence. Really beautiful wine.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Famiglia Maté Brunello do Montalcino Veltha 2021

The complex aromatics reveal Christmas spices, wood bark, quinine, and bramble berry nuances. Plush and mouth coating, the concentration is impressive, the balance and harmony rich, intense and focused. Packs a lot of punch with elegance and sophistication. A real beaut.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Famiglia Maté Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020

Complex aromatics show plenty of sapidity and botte wood spice, black liquorice, aniseed root and bramble berry nuances. Plush and compact on the palate, revealing notes of balsamic, cured meats and savoury raisined red cherry notes. Power packed and full of mineral grip with a fabulously intricate texture. Truly superb.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Frescobaldi Castel Gioconda Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Broad broody aromatics show black cherries, wood smoke, liquorice, and subtle earthy notes. Full and punchy on the palate, but texturally polished and very precise, layered with spicy cherry, limestone minerality and complex Christmas spices.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo Vigna Ripe al Convento Riserva 2020

The nose reveals broody, tarry, smoky black cherry fruits following to a plush, creamy palate with well integrated acids and a deliciously concentrated tertiary fruit finish. A lot going on here, making for a very notable Reserva style.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino 2023

Rich, ripe and lifted with layered aromatics of raspberry ripple, confected red cherry and a delicate sapidity. Quite restrained on the palate, mineral and spicy but showing a well polished red fruited core beneath.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Aged three years in large oak, the wine shows delicately reductive aromatics packed full of gun smoke, wood embers, tar, black cherry and kelpy salinity. Compact, tight knit and creamy, there’s a real focus and concentration, textural density and a long, tangy finish. Superb.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020

From a 62 year old single vineyard that’s aged for four years in large oak. Plush, complex and intense being full of liquorice, bresaola, cured meats and a creamy, textural, black cherry fruit finish. Dense, powerful and kissed with sweet baking herbs and dried mint leaf nuances on the finish. True class.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2021

A delicately reductive nose shows earthy savoury aromatics embellished with delicate pink musk, raisined red cherries and perfumed potpourri spice. Full, plush and creamy, this carries concentration and weight of fruit, finely balanced by a well-integrated acidity.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello do Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2021

First produced in 1981 but not made every year. Aged one year in French oak then transferred to Slavonian oak for a further two years. Deep, broody, brambly aromatics with a savoury earthy depth and raisined cherries. Plush, sweet fruited and quite expansive in the mouth, this has deliciously ripe berry fruits, a notable concentration but also a beautifully tangy acidity on the long finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020

An extra year of oak, normally around three to three and a half years but with an emphasis on elegance and finesse. Beautifully mineral and tight knit, this is quite a serious Brunello expression allowing a fine stony mineral vein to shine through. Impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Quite a plush, creamy lactic expression with classical red cherry, cranberry and limestone mineral notes. The minerality is also notable on the palate, framed with grippy tannins, a plush fruit concentration and a delightful black stone fruit finish with impressive power.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Premium Bolgheri Producer Tenuta San Guido Releases Its Highly Anticipated Sassicaia 2023…

February 10, 2026February 12, 2026 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

And just like that, Sassicaia 100 pointers seem to be like London buses, nothing for 31 years after the legendary 1985 and then finally, the monumental 2016 release which garnered a perfect score from almost every global critic who tasted it, with the 2021 and 2023 following closely behind. Attending the London-based global launch of the Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023 release, I couldn’t help wondering out aloud if this phenomenon was a case of the market and critics finally catching up with the true Sassicaia style or had the wines really improved / changed markedly over the years?

Anyone who has drunk multiple back vintages of Sassicaia going back to the 1980s and 1990s will know that Tenuta San Guido has forged somewhat of a reputation for making memorable wines in less than memorable Tuscan vintages – a mind-blowing bottle of 1993 Sassicaia drunk a couple of years ago with friends a perfect case in point. I have very fortunately had the opportunity to taste the epic 1985 Sassicaia from bottle and magnum and it undoubtedly remains one of the great 100-point wines of perfection in modern winemaking history. Now, I just need to find a bottle of the infamous 1988 to taste, a wine that was fabled to be even better than the 1985!

Pricilla Incisa della Rocchetta, owner of Sassicaia.

The 2023 vintage in Bolgheri was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by severe outbreaks of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing Tenuta San Guido into a brutal fruit selection regime that resulted in a -20% reduction in yields overall. Only wineries willing to make these ruthless viticultural sorting sacrifices succeeded in 2023. But they say it in Bordeaux and Burgundy almost every vintage now – that there are great wines produced in almost every vintage, good and bad, and that the best wines can often rank highly amongst the most compelling fine wines. This seems to be the case with Sassicaia in 2023, a vintage that will be remembered for “fruit, salinity and length,” said Tenuta San Guido’s General Manager Carlo Paoli.

As usual, the Sassicaia 2023 vintage was tasted alongside the new releases of Tenuta San Guido’s Le Difese and Guidalberto 2024.

Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2024, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

The 2024 Le Difese is a blend of 75% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and reveals a cool, dark fruited, broody aromatics with a delicately seductive perfume of violets, cherry blossom, black currants, and damson plum with a subtle dusting of vanilla pod spice and aniseed root. The palate is crystalline and pure, fine boned, fresh, and supple with sleek sinewy red berry fruits, red cherry, cranberry and Victoria plum. The acids are linear and bright, the tannins silky soft and pinpoint with a delicate mineral grip on the finish. Once again, almost more Pinot Noir in character and elegance but incredibly seductive. Drink now to 2034+. (375,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2024, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot, the Guidalberto 2024 shows a noticeably more lifted, perfumed, intense aromatics than its big brother Sassicaia, with fragrant rose petals, pressed violets, and wild jasmine overlayed with red and black berry fruits, black cherry and a br?l?ed savoury brown breakfast toast nuance. The palate is sleek, fresh, and piercing, deliciously bright and mouth-wateringly tart with red cherry rock candy, cranberry, dried herbs, mint leaf, and suave tight grained chalky tannins on the finish. A delightfully exotic, elegant, stylish Guidalberto with weightless concentration and a finessed intensity. Drink from 2027 to 2040+. (400,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023, Sassicaia-Bolgheri DOC, 14% Abv.

This 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc blend is fabulous bright in the glass with translucent cherry ruby red. The aromatics are slightly subdued and broody with hints of lavender and violets, tobacco leaf, and tilled earth. There is a real melange of red and black berry fruits with a leafy musk undertone. The palate is brighter and more accessible than the nose – generous, vibrant, and forthcoming with deliciously fine-grained chalky tannins, layers of mineral limestone intertwined with tart red cherry, red currant and sour plum. Plenty of stuffing and dry extract but made all the more overt and mouthwatering by the cool, crisp crystalline acids. This is a very polished, harmonious Sassicaia, supremely balanced and substantial, harmonious yet majestically elegant. Drink from 2028 to 2045+. (280,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Tenuta San Guido wines are imported into the UK by Armit Wines. Sassicaia 2023 was released at £1,250 per 6 Underbond.

Beyond Bordeaux – The 2025 Global Fine Wine Offering from La Place de Bordeaux…

October 15, 2025October 15, 2025 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

For the past few years, Bordeaux negociants have been supplementing their wine businesses by offering their distribution expertise acquired globally over many decades, to distribute alternative premium fine wines from around the world. CVBG have been one of the largest proponents of the “Beyond Bordeaux” wine category and accordingly, host an impressive fine wine tasting for the trade in London annually. Below are a selection of my scores from the 2025 offerings.

The impressive tasting of Beyond Bordeaux hosted in London by Negociant CVBG Dourthe.

Massetino 2023, IGT Toscana, 15% Abv.

Plush, exotic and lifted with aromatics of cherry kirsch liquor, cassis, sour plum and subtle brûléed vanilla nuances. Super sleek polished texture showing overt stony mineral tannins with a picante, grippy extract on the finish. Plenty of tension belies the 15% alcohol.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Marchesi Antinori Solaia 2022, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

Deep dark broody aromatics full of macerated black berries, damson plum and black cherry compote with a dusting of brûléed vanilla pod spice. Fleshy and silky soft, fulsome but also very characterful with a classical weightless concentration and elegance. A very polished expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Marques de Riscal Tapias 2022, Rioja DOC, 15% Abv.

Shows dense layers of black berry, damson plum and ripe wild strawberry. Ripe tight core with muscle but also precision. The oak is still dominant now but should integrate further and age gracefully.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

F. ALGUEIRA Dolio 2021, Ribera Sacra, 13% Abv.

Layered aromatics with dark bramble berry fruits, a graphite dusting, crushed stones and a hint of smoky reduction. Sleek and precise with a savoury plummy sweet – sour ripeness neatly tucked between bright linear acids and fine chalky tannins.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Cheval Blanc Petit Cheval Bordeaux Blanc 2023, 13.5% Abv.

A 73% Sauvignon Blanc and 17% Semillon blend, this new release shows a juicy opulent crystalline aromatics full of vibrant yellow grapefruit citrus, fresh fennel, ripe gooseberries and lemon grass spice. Deliciously full with a harmonious texture that’s mouth coating, almost creamy, finishing with a delicious purity and clarity. Superb.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Cheval des Andes 2022, Mendoza, 14% Abv.

Cool integrated perfumed aromatics offering a classy balance and purity of blueberry, cassis and damson plum. Beautifully fine grained displaying a polished texture. A true class act with superb balance.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Errazuriz Sena 2023, Valle de Aconcagua, 13.5% Abv.

Beautifully aromatic perfumed fragrance of violets, white blossom and hints of saline cassis, black cherry and ripe blueberries. Seamless and silky, but also delightfully vibrant and fresh with a piercing black fruit concentration while remaining classically light on its feet. Very classy expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Appassionata Pinot Noir 2014, Chehalem Mountains AVA, Oregon, 13% Abv.

Enticingly fresh aromatics with delightful tertiary hints of freshly brewed tea and sous bois, bold orange and pomegranate nuances. Sleek, soft and very pure, this balances savoury red berry fruits and a bramble berry intensity with citrus, orange vermouth spices and blood orange notes on a very sleek polished finish. Wow. Impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Dr Loosen Wines:

From 130 year old seven hectare plots of Riesling from Ernie Loosen’s Great Grandfather (out of a total 40 hectares in Wehlener Sonnenuhr) Being the 2nd biggest holdings after JJ Prum.

Riesling Dry 2019, 12.5% – 95+/100

Riesling Kabinett 2019, 9.5% – 97/100

Riesling Auslese 2019, 9.5% – 98/100

L’Aventure Optimus 2022 Red Blend – 95/100

L’Aventure Cote A Cote 2022 – 95+/100

L’Aventure Estate Reserve 2022 – 97+/100

Verite La Muse 2022, Sonoma County, 14.5% Abv.

Mostly Merlot, wood spice, black berry, plum pip, with smoky graphite and crushed gravel. Super sleek and polished, seamless, showing sappy leafy black fruits, cedar spice, black tea and a spicy grippy finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Verite La Joie 2022, Sonoma County, 14.5% Abv.

Tightly packed with cedar, spice, chai tea, graphite and real mineral presence. Fruits are dark, taut and full of tension, acids are crisp but with a marble like polish. Tight, classical and serious.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Verite Le Desir 2022, Sonoma County, 14.5% Abv.

Tight dark and broody, this is a classy, tight black fruited expression, offering up hints of aromatic complexity. Red berries, sweet cedar and red currant fruits with a lurking leafy, red cherry intensity. Sublime balance and harmony.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Cardinale Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Beautiful blend of Cabernet vineyards from Spring Mountain with 3% Merlot for extra interest. Delicious black currant, black forest gateau, plums and blueberry compote. Lovely balance with impressive balance and fleshy generosity.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Inglenook Blancaneaux 2023, Napa Valley, 13.7% Abv.

40% Viognier with Roussanne and Marsanne. Lovely cool precision, stony minerality with smoky flinty reduction, spice and dried herbs. Mouth coating, intense but good freshness.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Napa Valley, 14.1% Abv.

Small warmer vintage with slightly higher yields than 2021, showing blue and black berries, cassis, dried herbs and sweet cedar spice. A harmonious palate showing restraint with intensity and concentration, silky balance and a blueberry, black currant finish. Classical but impressive intensity.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Inglenook Rubicon 2022, 14.3% Abv.

85% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot – Sweet herbs, sappy cedar, saline black currant, with black and blueberry, liquorice and creamy, graphite tannins. Full, powerful, incredibly complete.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Coonawarra, 13.5% Abv.

Quite an ethereal, musky, dusty Cabernet aromatics with blueberry, cassies, black cherry and black berry rock candy. Sublime balance, silky soft tannins with a creamy velvety mouthfeel, tangy acids and a salty black berry fruited finish. The oak is almost imperceptible. Very classy.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2023, 12.5% Abv.

Lovely lemon and lime intensity spiced up by a complexing, well judged smoky reduction. Crisp, crystalline, deliciously lean. This is a truly delicious, grown up fine wine Chardonnay.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2022, 14.5% Abv.

Restrained subdued aromatics, with hints of liquorice, blue and black berry and a spicy, granitic, mineral grippy finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Penfolds RWT Bin 789 Barossa Shiraz 2023, 14.5% Abv.

Sweet and exotic aromatics full of black berry, hoisin plum sauce, sweet Christmas spices and a smoky savoury depth with very dry, mineral grippy tannins. Very serious.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Penfolds Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% Abv.

Subtle aromatics of black berry, dried mint leaf, chocolate peppermint crisp and sweet dried herbs. Full and creamy, powdery chalky tannins, a cool tangy acidity and a long, focused finish. Very precise.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, 14.5% Abv.

Sweeter black fruits, mulberry and damson plum, over tilled earth, graphite and chai tea. Dense, complex and textural, pinpoint, focused and tight grained. Dusty chalky tannins, liquid minerals and a picante, pithy finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Penfolds Grange 2021, 14.5% Abv.

Beautiful aromatics of incense, plum sauce, black cherry, and sweet Christmas spices with a kiss of salty black liquorice. Full in the mouth with a textured, grippy tannin frame, plenty of chalky minerality and an unctuous, fleshy, grippy finish. Plenty of premium winemaking on display here.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Cloudburst Chardonnay 2023, Margaret River

Fabulous lemon lime intensity with an intricate smoky reductive vein. Wet stones, lemon grass and fabulous depth. Cool classy and restrained, this is top drawer cool climate Chardonnay.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Margaret River

A vibrant, distinctive terroir driven expression that oozes terroir… wet stone minerality, tea leaf, graphite, black currant leaf, tobacco and kelp. Deliciously maritime, saline and focused with amazing energy and inner character. Wow!

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Yalumba Florita Riesling 2015, Clare Valley, 12.3% Abv.

Lemon cordial, lime confit, white flowers and hints of butter, ginger and passion fruit crunch. Dry, pristine, very classy!

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Jim Barry The Armagh 2022, Clare Valley, 14% Abv.

An incredibly fragrant aromatics, fully perfumed with rose petal, incense, rose hip, tangerine peel, pink musk, talc, red peppercorns and vibrant red berry fruits. Incredibly cool sleek and silky, this is Armagh elegance at the next level. Fabulous purity, weightless concentration and spectacular elegance. Wow!

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2020, Barossa Valley, 14.5% Abv.

Dark broody black and blue berry fruits, beautifully complex, integrated aromatics of black currant, liquorice and salted caramel. Incredibly harmonious and balanced, this is a sublime Barossa expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tenuta San Guido’s Exciting New Guidalberto 2023 Red Blend Carving Out Its Own Fine Wine Niche…

April 7, 2025April 7, 2025 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Tenuta San Guido’s Guidalberto Tuscan red blend has historically been overshadowed by its more famous sibling Sassicaia, a wine that usually steals all the fine wine headlines. But this scenario is surely going to be challenged and the distinction between the two wines further emphasised when Guidalberto’s new bespoke winery is finally completed in the summer of 2025 with the 2026 harvest earmarked to be the first complete vintage produced in the new facility, built on an old brick works site on the Tenuta San Guido estate in Bolgheri.

The bigger sibling, Sassicaia, is normally a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc in the 2022 blend) that is aged for almost two years in predominantly French oak barriques. Guidalberto on the other hand, is usually a Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend (55% and 45% in 2023) which is aged for around 12 months in barrel. Apart from the blend, Guidalberto stuck out from Sassicaia’s blend when the wines were shown to the press alongside each other with Guidalberto always coming from a vintage one year younger, and very often was actually a barrel sample rather than a finished bottled wine like Sassicaia.

Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta presenting the 2023 Guidalberto in London.

Owner, Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta and Sales Director Guido Baldeschi, explained at the recent Sassicaia 2022 launch that the number of bottles of Sassicaia produced is to drop by about 10% from 290 to 300,000 bottles per year to circa 250,000. Likewise, Guidalberto will have its output reduced to circa 280,000 bottles per year (in 2019 there were 430,000 bottles produced), while Tenuta San Guido’s Le Difese blend will settle at around 300 to 320,000 bottles per year. Guidalberto will also spend 4 to 6 months longer in oak barrels and Le Difese 1 to 2 months more.

Guidalberto is now launched at its own dedicated release tasting event and in mid-March 2025, the Guidalberto 2023 was profiled, coming from a ‘more challenging’ growing season with downy mildew affecting flowering and fruit set after a very wet May, which resulted in a -5% production loss, although further damage was avoided by the dedicated actions of the 120 Tenuta San Guido vineyard workers. There is nothing challenging about the 2023 wine however, which ably represents the ever-rising quality of this prestige Tuscan label.

Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2023, IGT Toscana, 13.65% Abv.

6.12 TA | 3.44pH

A classical blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot from 18-year-old vines, the 2023 displays a deep dark opaque colour suggesting a broody aromatics which is indeed tightly packed with red and black berry fruits, damson plum and sun-dried black cherry laced with sweet baking herbs and subtle hoisin plum sauce nuances. The energy on the palate is notable, the acids bright and tangy, combing with sweet savoury berry fruits, creamy tannins, and a spicy, mineral-tinged length. Beautiful mid-palate weight with a long, intense, potent finish. This is another serious release indeed! Drink from 2026 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Guidalberto 2023 and the wines of Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia are imported and sold in the UK through Armit Wines.

Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala Masterclass with Allegra Antinori – One of Italy’s Truly Great Icon White Wines…

March 26, 2025March 26, 2025 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Castello della Sala, considered one of the most extraordinary examples of medieval architecture in Italy, is located in Umbria, a short distance from the Tuscan border – about 11 miles from the historic city of Orvieto. The estate’s 229 hectares (565 acres) are planted with traditional varieties such as Procanico and Grechetto, but also with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sèmillon, Pinot Bianco, Viognier, and a small percentage of Traminer and Riesling.

This famous Antinori family estate started producing innovative wines from the non-traditional grape varieties of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc back in the 1980s under the direction of Marchese Piero Antinori, son of Niccolò, along with Renzo Cotarella, Castello della Sala’s enologist at that time.

The Umbrian estate has always posed – and still continues to pose – a continuous challenge for Marchesi Antinori who has dedicated years of research and experimentation in viticulture and oenology to maximize the potential of indigenous varieties and also to determine how the area’s microclimates contribute to the production of contemporary wines.

Chardonnay vineyards at Castello della Sala

Bramito della Sala is the estate’s 100% Chardonnay cuvee that was first produced in 1994. The grapes are from younger Chardonnay vines on the estate, sitting on soils rich in fossil deposits with veins of clay that give this wine minerality and elegance. The juice is only part barrel fermented, with malolactic fermentation lending a luscious creamy texture and flavour to the wine.

The estate’s flagship wine, Cervaro della Sala, was one of the first Italian white wines to employ malolactic fermentation and ageing taking place in French oak barriques. The name Cervaro comes from the noble family who owned Castello della Sala during the 14th century: the Monaldeschi della Cervara. A blend of Chardonnay grapes and a small quantity of Grechetto (normally around 10%) make a wine that can age well over time and represents the elegance and complexity of this unique estate. After several failed attempts in the early 1980’s, the first official release was heralded in 1985 with a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Grechetto to add an Italian twist to the wine.

Archive stock sealed under cork and heavy wax.

“There is a subliminal tension between the Chardonnay and Grechetto and you kind of feel while they agree to cohabit together, they will never truly shake hands and be the best of friends. For Cervaro, this is perhaps the secret recipe, allowing the wines to retain a tension, tautness, nerve, and vigour.” ~ Allegra Antinori

Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2005, Umbria, 13% Abv.

85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto – Beautiful deep straw yellow, the 2005 has an alluring nose of crushed mint leaf, baking herbs, wet hay, burnt sugar, toffee apples and spicy, dusty, slatey minerality. The palate shows great subtlety, creamy harmony and sumptuous tertiary earthy, lemony depth. Impressive gravitas, great breadth and a beautifully complex finish of honey, camomile tea and caramelised lemons. A pleasure to drink.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2006, Umbria, 13% Abv.

85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto – The most complex of aromatics with brioche, caramel, Coche-Dury’esque struck match flinty notes, lemon pith and proviteroll richness. Incredible green gauge intensity, yellow citrus, basalt minerality, mint leaf, and honeyed camomile tea. Wonderful to see a wine finally revealing its heart and soul to the drinker after 18+ years of bottles captivity.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2009, Umbria, 13% Abv.

85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto – A beautifully complex nose that marries creamy lemon pastille and white peach confit with struck match Burgundian flinty reduction. Everything is in such superb balance, with great synergy between wood spice, minerality, and vibrant acidity. Intense and mineral, this wine reveals the true pedigree of Cervaro!

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2011, Umbria, 13.5% Abv.

90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto – Still taut, restrained mineral nose with hints of truffle, wet chalk, lemon pastille, and bruised yellow orchard fruits peppered with a delicious struck match reduction. The palate is soft, broad and sumptuous, seamlessly intense and saline backed by a wonderful backbone of pithy citrus and dusty, gravelly, minerality. Wonderful harmonious peachy, vibrant finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2013, Umbria, 12.5% Abv.

90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto – Rich toasty nose brimming with buttered toast, lemon blossom, caramelised apples, and vanilla pod spice lift. The palate shows great tension, flinty minerality and piquant spicy skin and wood tannins that are beautifully integrated with yellow orchard fruits, pithy citrus and spicy lemon crumble. Taut, young, and very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tasting and Reviewing the Seductive New Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2023…

February 24, 2025February 24, 2025 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

The Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative is comprised of 56 families and 100+ hectares of solely Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6th of the vineyards of the appellation. Produttori del Barbaresco’s mission is clear – “Excellence in Simplicity” – and if there is one wine that encapsulates everything this incredible co-op stands for, then it must be their Langhe Nebbiolo.

The 2023 vintage in Piedmont was considered tricky as conditions were seldom steady, but overall, some good wines were made. The growing season began with a mild but wet spring. While the mild temperatures were conducive for budbreak, the intermittent rain elevated the risk of disease. However, in a break from the rain, a sudden cold snap brought frosts which damaged some of the vines.

Although the damp conditions continued into the first month of summer, the rains finally dried up only to be replaced by a series of heatwaves. At their peak, temperatures were hitting 40 degrees C. The upside of these hot conditions, however, was that it cut the threat of disease, and the grapes that did survive were well-placed to reach full phenolic ripeness. As the harvest drew to a close, the heat of the season dissipated and a slight chill took hold, even delivering a rain shower or two. For Nebbiolo, the cooler temperatures, particularly at night, brought a welcome respite while preserving vital acidity and aromatics. The majority of grapes were picked in mostly favourable conditions, and whilst not an easy vintage, some very good wines were made.

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2023, 14% Abv.

A very light translucent ruby red colour belies a wine that shows an intensely rich, ripe, fragrant fruit driven aromatics packed full of red plum jam, red cherry, Pink Lady red apples, and cranberry notes over earthy aniseed, fennel root spice and subtle cinchona quinine bark nuances. The palate entry is intense yet majestically soft and seamless with polished stony tannins that melt into a tangy, bright mouthwatering red cherry acidity. The finish is energetic and pithy, delicately phenolic with red apple spice, a delicate sapidity and a long juicy finely textured finish. Always a top class wine that overdelivers vintage after vintage, the 2023 release carries on this tradition. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Produttori del Barbaresco wines are imported and distributed in the UK by Astrum Wines.

The Avignonesi Estate – A Beacon of Quality Wine in Tuscany’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Appellation…

December 24, 2024December 24, 2024 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The revolution in premium wine quality that has occurred in Italy over the past three decades must surely count as one of the wider wine success stories on a continent that has generally witnessed decreasing consumption. From Piedmont to Tuscany to Puglia, no region was left untouched by the wave of new quality wine production. Tuscany certainly grabbed its fair share of the wine headlines with Chianti Classico, Bolgheri and Montalcino leading the charge. But another great homeland of Sangiovese somehow seemed to miss out on a similar amount of fame, namely Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – and no estate in the region is more famous for their winemaking achievements over the past 15+ years than the Avignonesi Estate.

Situated in the hills of Tuscany on the edge of Montepulciano near Cortona, Avignonesi became synonymous with quality wine making as far back as the 1970s, but it was only when the estate passed into the hands of the Belgian industrialist Virginie Saverys in 2008 that the developments we now see in the estate’s vineyards and in the Avignonesi wines themselves became clear. Much of this change has focused on the vineyards, with conversion to biodynamic agriculture and organic production being the spearhead that has allowed the wines to not only soar in quality, but in a way that is true to the vineyards and terroir from which the grapes are sourced.

Avignonesi is now considered a Sangiovese specialist, but they have also dedicated much effort to promote other native red and white indigenous varieties from the region, in many instances as a quality assurance in the face of global climate change. With the organic and biodynamic vineyard practices carried into the winery, owner Virginie has sought to not only allow the wines to benefit qualitatively but also the wider Avignonesi worker community.

My last visit to the estate was way back in May 2018, when I spent several days walking the vineyards, visiting and tasting at the winery and soaking up the wider Tuscan culture of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Similarly, Virginie Saverys’ journey to winery ownership began when she visited Tuscany and fell in love with the place and its wines. In 2007, she purchased 20% of Avignonesi (established in 1974) and in 2009, the two brothers who owned the winery, sold it to her in its entirety. Virginie Saverys came to winery ownership first and foremost as a wine consumer, not as a winemaker, but she did spend two years in Bordeaux immersed in vineyards and winemaking to prepare herself for winery ownership. Her background is in law and Virginie brings her lawyerly attention to every detail at Avignonesi.

Under Virginie’s tenure, Avignonesi has eliminated the use of all herbicides and pesticides in the vineyards which were certified Organic in 2016 and Biodynamic in 2019. Of the 174 hectares under vine, 99 hectares are planted to Sangiovese and fermentations only use naturally occurring yeasts, with Avignonesi’s wines now also Vegan certified. There is a genuine and meaningful commitment to the land and local natural environment and accordingly to my knowledge, Avignonesi remains the largest fully biodynamic certified estate in Europe.

I recently caught up with their brand ambassador in London and took the opportunity to refresh my Avignonesi tasting notes with a selection of their current releases, all available in the UK through Andrew Johnson at Woodwinters.

Avignonesi Da.Di Bianco 2023, IGT Toscana Bianco, 13.5% Abv.

A honey bronze yellow colour, this 2023 blend is circa 50% Orpicchio, 19% Grechetto, 12% Vermentino, and a co-fermentation of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Rich and juicy on the nose, the aromatics are full of yellow orchard fruits, melted honey on toast, with complexing hints of lychee, potpourri, and lemon herbal tea nuances. The palate is medium to full bodied, beautifully vibrant and tangy with zesty acids, a concentrated lemon and herbal white peach depth, finishing with a pithy, mouthwatering Golden Delicious appley length. Drink now to 2028+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Da.Di Rosso Biologico 2022, IGT Toscana, 13% Abv.

Another exciting expression from the Avignonesi estate that circumvents the use of stainless steel and oak barrels in favour of Tuscan clay amphorae, hence the name Da-Di was chosen, meaning “earth, soil” in Chinese. Vinified in 13 terracotta vessels made in Tuscany – 8 manufactured by Artenova in Impruneta, and 5 were manufactured by Laboratorio San Rocco in Torrita di Siena using clay from the famous Mount Amiata. An exotic blend of indigenous Tuscan varieties including 28,04% Canaiolo, 27,08% Sangiovese, 23,51% Mammolo, 15,67% Alicante, and 5,7% Ciliegiolo, the 2022 is initially slightly broody and closed on the nose as is common with Amphorae wines, but after a little air, the wine simply blossoms into an energetic expression showing bright perfumed aromatics of violets and star anise, red currants and crushed raspberries with an intricate basaltic minerality interwoven into the fabric of the wine. The texture is medium bodied but deliciously inviting, layered with chalky mineral tannins, red and black berry fruits, hints of dried baking spices and raspberry coulis, finishing with an energetically fresh, tangy bright acidity that makes the palate salivate and invites another sip. A pretty style of wine that trades on subtlety, elegance and freshness instead of overt power. Drink on release and over 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vintage Release 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

Produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes sourced from bush vine vineyards planted between 1995 and 2017, the wine was aged for 18 months in mainly Slavonian oak casks as well as some French oak barriques and tonneaux. From a warm dry vintage, the nose reveals a seductive fragrance of ripe red cherries, sun raisined cranberries and ripe pomegranate with delicate hints of sweet sandal wood and vanilla pod spice. The palate is incredibly harmonious and inviting, with sweet fleshy Sangiovese red and black berry fruit notes coating the palate with yet more red cherry, plum compote, and subtle earthy red currant nuances. The wine shows beautifully supple tannins that are fine grained and gently mineral and drying, supported by incredibly well integrated tangy, vibrant acids. This is a wine that displays the most friendly and attractive personality of Sangiovese from Montepulciano with accessibility, precision, and elegance. Simply delicious. Drink on release and over 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vintage Release 2014, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

As always, a 100% Sangiovese cuvee from Vino Nobile coming from a more challenging vintage, this archive release was introduced to market just as it was starting to reach its prime drinking window. A cool, subtle vintage handled with great care, the aromatics show a delicate tertiary complexity of soft black liquorice, sun raisined black berry, tilled earth, sweet Christmas spices and subtle herbal wood spice notions. Beautifully sleek and supple in the mouth, the palate reveals macerated black plums, salty liquorice, and earthy black currant wrapped in super fine-grained tannins with a sleek integrated acidity. Maturing beautifully so far, this wine might just be a sommelier’s dream ticket with its beautiful approachability. Drink now and over the next 5-8 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

Another terrific pure Sangiovese that shows a deliciously expressive aromatics of warm black berry compote, earthy red currants, mulberries, melted tar, and damson plum. Broody and dark fruited, on the palate the wine comes alive boasting a silky, spicy black fruited depth, sour plum, pithy black cherry and hoisin plum sauce nuances. Silky, soft and fleshy, there is a great approachability and generosity to the fruit but also a fine, noble mineral restraint. This is a top-drawer Vino Nobile with fruit harmony, a spicy complexity and great persistence on the finish. This is exactly what consumers want from this famous region!

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Desiderio Merlot 2020, IGT Toscana, 14.5% Abv.

Pure Merlot’s premium reputation in Tuscany precedes it with multiple distinguished examples earning a lot of friends around the world. While some can be rather sweet and plummy, this pretty Avignonesi expression shows an attractive aromatics of black cherries, black currant, and inky blue berries with delicate notions of salted caramel and vanilla pod oak spice. The texture is taut and chiselled, with a defined linearity and steely acid frame adding to a fine boned mineral skeletal frame that support the ample stewed black berry, black plum and mulberry fruits. This is a serious, stern, contemplative, age worthy Merlot expression with a wonderfully stony minerality, pronounced graphite nuances, and a polished pithy blueberry finish. Drink from now until 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi & Capannelle 50&50 2019, IGT Toscana, 14% Abv.

First created in 1988 as a joint venture between friends, this 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot blend speaks of the friendship and enjoyment that sharing great bottles of wine brings into peoples’ lives. The aromatics are enticingly deep and broody, tightly packed with layers of red and black berry fruits, sweet earthy black currant, hints of mulberry and an attractive freshly baked black cherry pie nuance. The palate shows a precise, linear, mouth-watering acidity that lends extra structural ballast to the polished marble tannins, that are draped in ripe savoury blue and black berry fruits with hints of stewed winter plums, sweet balsamic reduction, and dried baking spices. A confident wine that is effortlessly balanced yet harbours a deceptively powerful depth and breadth. Enjoy this punchy, concentrated expression now and over the next 5 to 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Greg Sherwood MW

A FINE WINE SAFARI

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