And just like that, Sassicaia 100 pointers seem to be like London buses, nothing for 31 years after the legendary 1985 and then finally, the monumental 2016 release which garnered a perfect score from almost every global critic who tasted it, with the 2021 and 2023 following closely behind. Attending the London-based global launch of the Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023 release, I couldn’t help wondering out aloud if this phenomenon was a case of the market and critics finally catching up with the true Sassicaia style or had the wines really improved / changed markedly over the years?
Anyone who has drunk multiple back vintages of Sassicaia going back to the 1980s and 1990s will know that Tenuta San Guido has forged somewhat of a reputation for making memorable wines in less than memorable Tuscan vintages – a mind-blowing bottle of 1993 Sassicaia drunk a couple of years ago with friends a perfect case in point. I have very fortunately had the opportunity to taste the epic 1985 Sassicaia from bottle and magnum and it undoubtedly remains one of the great 100-point wines of perfection in modern winemaking history. Now, I just need to find a bottle of the infamous 1988 to taste, a wine that was fabled to be even better than the 1985!
Pricilla Incisa della Rocchetta, owner of Sassicaia.
The 2023 vintage in Bolgheri was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by severe outbreaks of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing Tenuta San Guido into a brutal fruit selection regime that resulted in a -20% reduction in yields overall. Only wineries willing to make these ruthless viticultural sorting sacrifices succeeded in 2023. But they say it in Bordeaux and Burgundy almost every vintage now – that there are great wines produced in almost every vintage, good and bad, and that the best wines can often rank highly amongst the most compelling fine wines. This seems to be the case with Sassicaia in 2023, a vintage that will be remembered for “fruit, salinity and length,” said Tenuta San Guido’s General Manager Carlo Paoli.
As usual, the Sassicaia 2023 vintage was tasted alongside the new releases of Tenuta San Guido’s Le Difese and Guidalberto 2024.
Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2024, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.
The 2024 Le Difese is a blend of 75% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and reveals a cool, dark fruited, broody aromatics with a delicately seductive perfume of violets, cherry blossom, black currants, and damson plum with a subtle dusting of vanilla pod spice and aniseed root. The palate is crystalline and pure, fine boned, fresh, and supple with sleek sinewy red berry fruits, red cherry, cranberry and Victoria plum. The acids are linear and bright, the tannins silky soft and pinpoint with a delicate mineral grip on the finish. Once again, almost more Pinot Noir in character and elegance but incredibly seductive. Drink now to 2034+. (375,000 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2024, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.
A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot, the Guidalberto 2024 shows a noticeably more lifted, perfumed, intense aromatics than its big brother Sassicaia, with fragrant rose petals, pressed violets, and wild jasmine overlayed with red and black berry fruits, black cherry and a br?l?ed savoury brown breakfast toast nuance. The palate is sleek, fresh, and piercing, deliciously bright and mouth-wateringly tart with red cherry rock candy, cranberry, dried herbs, mint leaf, and suave tight grained chalky tannins on the finish. A delightfully exotic, elegant, stylish Guidalberto with weightless concentration and a finessed intensity. Drink from 2027 to 2040+. (400,000 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023, Sassicaia-Bolgheri DOC, 14% Abv.
This 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc blend is fabulous bright in the glass with translucent cherry ruby red. The aromatics are slightly subdued and broody with hints of lavender and violets, tobacco leaf, and tilled earth. There is a real melange of red and black berry fruits with a leafy musk undertone. The palate is brighter and more accessible than the nose – generous, vibrant, and forthcoming with deliciously fine-grained chalky tannins, layers of mineral limestone intertwined with tart red cherry, red currant and sour plum. Plenty of stuffing and dry extract but made all the more overt and mouthwatering by the cool, crisp crystalline acids. This is a very polished, harmonious Sassicaia, supremely balanced and substantial, harmonious yet majestically elegant. Drink from 2028 to 2045+. (280,000 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Tenuta San Guido wines are imported into the UK by Armit Wines. Sassicaia 2023 was released at £1,250 per 6 Underbond.
For the past few years, Bordeaux negociants have been supplementing their wine businesses by offering their distribution expertise acquired globally over many decades, to distribute alternative premium fine wines from around the world. CVBG have been one of the largest proponents of the “Beyond Bordeaux” wine category and accordingly, host an impressive fine wine tasting for the trade in London annually. Below are a selection of my scores from the 2025 offerings.
The impressive tasting of Beyond Bordeaux hosted in London by Negociant CVBG Dourthe.
Massetino 2023, IGT Toscana, 15% Abv.
Plush, exotic and lifted with aromatics of cherry kirsch liquor, cassis, sour plum and subtle brûléed vanilla nuances. Super sleek polished texture showing overt stony mineral tannins with a picante, grippy extract on the finish. Plenty of tension belies the 15% alcohol.
Deep dark broody aromatics full of macerated black berries, damson plum and black cherry compote with a dusting of brûléed vanilla pod spice. Fleshy and silky soft, fulsome but also very characterful with a classical weightless concentration and elegance. A very polished expression.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Marques de Riscal Tapias 2022, Rioja DOC, 15% Abv.
Shows dense layers of black berry, damson plum and ripe wild strawberry. Ripe tight core with muscle but also precision. The oak is still dominant now but should integrate further and age gracefully.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
F. ALGUEIRA Dolio 2021, Ribera Sacra, 13% Abv.
Layered aromatics with dark bramble berry fruits, a graphite dusting, crushed stones and a hint of smoky reduction. Sleek and precise with a savoury plummy sweet – sour ripeness neatly tucked between bright linear acids and fine chalky tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Cheval Blanc Petit Cheval Bordeaux Blanc 2023, 13.5% Abv.
A 73% Sauvignon Blanc and 17% Semillon blend, this new release shows a juicy opulent crystalline aromatics full of vibrant yellow grapefruit citrus, fresh fennel, ripe gooseberries and lemon grass spice. Deliciously full with a harmonious texture that’s mouth coating, almost creamy, finishing with a delicious purity and clarity. Superb.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Cheval des Andes 2022, Mendoza, 14%Abv.
Cool integrated perfumed aromatics offering a classy balance and purity of blueberry, cassis and damson plum. Beautifully fine grained displaying a polished texture. A true class act with superb balance.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Errazuriz Sena 2023, Valle de Aconcagua, 13.5% Abv.
Beautifully aromatic perfumed fragrance of violets, white blossom and hints of saline cassis, black cherry and ripe blueberries. Seamless and silky, but also delightfully vibrant and fresh with a piercing black fruit concentration while remaining classically light on its feet. Very classy expression.
Enticingly fresh aromatics with delightful tertiary hints of freshly brewed tea and sous bois, bold orange and pomegranate nuances. Sleek, soft and very pure, this balances savoury red berry fruits and a bramble berry intensity with citrus, orange vermouth spices and blood orange notes on a very sleek polished finish. Wow. Impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tasting with Ernie Loosen.
Dr Loosen Wines:
From 130 year old seven hectare plots of Riesling from Ernie Loosen’s Great Grandfather (out of a total 40 hectares in Wehlener Sonnenuhr) Being the 2nd biggest holdings after JJ Prum.
Riesling Dry 2019, 12.5% – 95+/100
Riesling Kabinett 2019, 9.5% – 97/100
Riesling Auslese 2019, 9.5% – 98/100
L’Aventure Optimus 2022 Red Blend – 95/100
L’Aventure Cote A Cote 2022 – 95+/100
L’Aventure Estate Reserve 2022 – 97+/100
Verite La Muse 2022, Sonoma County, 14.5% Abv.
Mostly Merlot, wood spice, black berry, plum pip, with smoky graphite and crushed gravel. Super sleek and polished, seamless, showing sappy leafy black fruits, cedar spice, black tea and a spicy grippy finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Verite La Joie 2022, Sonoma County, 14.5% Abv.
Tightly packed with cedar, spice, chai tea, graphite and real mineral presence. Fruits are dark, taut and full of tension, acids are crisp but with a marble like polish. Tight, classical and serious.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Verite Le Desir 2022, Sonoma County, 14.5% Abv.
Tight dark and broody, this is a classy, tight black fruited expression, offering up hints of aromatic complexity. Red berries, sweet cedar and red currant fruits with a lurking leafy, red cherry intensity. Sublime balance and harmony.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Cardinale Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Beautiful blend of Cabernet vineyards from Spring Mountain with 3% Merlot for extra interest. Delicious black currant, black forest gateau, plums and blueberry compote. Lovely balance with impressive balance and fleshy generosity.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Inglenook Blancaneaux 2023, Napa Valley, 13.7% Abv.
40% Viognier with Roussanne and Marsanne. Lovely cool precision, stony minerality with smoky flinty reduction, spice and dried herbs. Mouth coating, intense but good freshness.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Napa Valley, 14.1% Abv.
Small warmer vintage with slightly higher yields than 2021, showing blue and black berries, cassis, dried herbs and sweet cedar spice. A harmonious palate showing restraint with intensity and concentration, silky balance and a blueberry, black currant finish. Classical but impressive intensity.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Inglenook Rubicon 2022, 14.3% Abv.
85% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot – Sweet herbs, sappy cedar, saline black currant, with black and blueberry, liquorice and creamy, graphite tannins. Full, powerful, incredibly complete.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Coonawarra, 13.5% Abv.
Quite an ethereal, musky, dusty Cabernet aromatics with blueberry, cassies, black cherry and black berry rock candy. Sublime balance, silky soft tannins with a creamy velvety mouthfeel, tangy acids and a salty black berry fruited finish. The oak is almost imperceptible. Very classy.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2023, 12.5% Abv.
Lovely lemon and lime intensity spiced up by a complexing, well judged smoky reduction. Crisp, crystalline, deliciously lean. This is a truly delicious, grown up fine wine Chardonnay.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2022, 14.5% Abv.
Restrained subdued aromatics, with hints of liquorice, blue and black berry and a spicy, granitic, mineral grippy finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Penfolds RWT Bin 789 Barossa Shiraz 2023, 14.5% Abv.
Sweet and exotic aromatics full of black berry, hoisin plum sauce, sweet Christmas spices and a smoky savoury depth with very dry, mineral grippy tannins. Very serious.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Penfolds Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% Abv.
Subtle aromatics of black berry, dried mint leaf, chocolate peppermint crisp and sweet dried herbs. Full and creamy, powdery chalky tannins, a cool tangy acidity and a long, focused finish. Very precise.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, 14.5% Abv.
Sweeter black fruits, mulberry and damson plum, over tilled earth, graphite and chai tea. Dense, complex and textural, pinpoint, focused and tight grained. Dusty chalky tannins, liquid minerals and a picante, pithy finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Penfolds Grange 2021, 14.5% Abv.
Beautiful aromatics of incense, plum sauce, black cherry, and sweet Christmas spices with a kiss of salty black liquorice. Full in the mouth with a textured, grippy tannin frame, plenty of chalky minerality and an unctuous, fleshy, grippy finish. Plenty of premium winemaking on display here.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Cloudburst Chardonnay 2023, Margaret River
Fabulous lemon lime intensity with an intricate smoky reductive vein. Wet stones, lemon grass and fabulous depth. Cool classy and restrained, this is top drawer cool climate Chardonnay.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Margaret River
A vibrant, distinctive terroir driven expression that oozes terroir… wet stone minerality, tea leaf, graphite, black currant leaf, tobacco and kelp. Deliciously maritime, saline and focused with amazing energy and inner character. Wow!
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Yalumba Florita Riesling 2015, Clare Valley, 12.3% Abv.
Lemon cordial, lime confit, white flowers and hints of butter, ginger and passion fruit crunch. Dry, pristine, very classy!
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Jim Barry The Armagh 2022, Clare Valley, 14% Abv.
An incredibly fragrant aromatics, fully perfumed with rose petal, incense, rose hip, tangerine peel, pink musk, talc, red peppercorns and vibrant red berry fruits. Incredibly cool sleek and silky, this is Armagh elegance at the next level. Fabulous purity, weightless concentration and spectacular elegance. Wow!
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2020, Barossa Valley, 14.5% Abv.
Dark broody black and blue berry fruits, beautifully complex, integrated aromatics of black currant, liquorice and salted caramel. Incredibly harmonious and balanced, this is a sublime Barossa expression.
Tenuta San Guido’s Guidalberto Tuscan red blend has historically been overshadowed by its more famous sibling Sassicaia, a wine that usually steals all the fine wine headlines. But this scenario is surely going to be challenged and the distinction between the two wines further emphasised when Guidalberto’s new bespoke winery is finally completed in the summer of 2025 with the 2026 harvest earmarked to be the first complete vintage produced in the new facility, built on an old brick works site on the Tenuta San Guido estate in Bolgheri.
The bigger sibling, Sassicaia, is normally a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc in the 2022 blend) that is aged for almost two years in predominantly French oak barriques. Guidalberto on the other hand, is usually a Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend (55% and 45% in 2023) which is aged for around 12 months in barrel. Apart from the blend, Guidalberto stuck out from Sassicaia’s blend when the wines were shown to the press alongside each other with Guidalberto always coming from a vintage one year younger, and very often was actually a barrel sample rather than a finished bottled wine like Sassicaia.
Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta presenting the 2023 Guidalberto in London.
Owner, Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta and Sales Director Guido Baldeschi, explained at the recent Sassicaia 2022 launch that the number of bottles of Sassicaia produced is to drop by about 10% from 290 to 300,000 bottles per year to circa 250,000. Likewise, Guidalberto will have its output reduced to circa 280,000 bottles per year (in 2019 there were 430,000 bottles produced), while Tenuta San Guido’s Le Difese blend will settle at around 300 to 320,000 bottles per year. Guidalberto will also spend 4 to 6 months longer in oak barrels and Le Difese 1 to 2 months more.
The big brother … Sassicaia
Guidalberto is now launched at its own dedicated release tasting event and in mid-March 2025, the Guidalberto 2023 was profiled, coming from a ‘more challenging’ growing season with downy mildew affecting flowering and fruit set after a very wet May, which resulted in a -5% production loss, although further damage was avoided by the dedicated actions of the 120 Tenuta San Guido vineyard workers. There is nothing challenging about the 2023 wine however, which ably represents the ever-rising quality of this prestige Tuscan label.
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2023, IGT Toscana, 13.65% Abv.
6.12 TA | 3.44pH
A classical blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot from 18-year-old vines, the 2023 displays a deep dark opaque colour suggesting a broody aromatics which is indeed tightly packed with red and black berry fruits, damson plum and sun-dried black cherry laced with sweet baking herbs and subtle hoisin plum sauce nuances. The energy on the palate is notable, the acids bright and tangy, combing with sweet savoury berry fruits, creamy tannins, and a spicy, mineral-tinged length. Beautiful mid-palate weight with a long, intense, potent finish. This is another serious release indeed! Drink from 2026 to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Guidalberto 2023 and the wines of Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia are imported and sold in the UK through Armit Wines.
Castello della Sala, considered one of the most extraordinary examples of medieval architecture in Italy, is located in Umbria, a short distance from the Tuscan border – about 11 miles from the historic city of Orvieto. The estate’s 229 hectares (565 acres) are planted with traditional varieties such as Procanico and Grechetto, but also with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sèmillon, Pinot Bianco, Viognier, and a small percentage of Traminer and Riesling.
Cervaro archive vertical 2005-2013
This famous Antinori family estate started producing innovative wines from the non-traditional grape varieties of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc back in the 1980s under the direction of Marchese Piero Antinori, son of Niccolò, along with Renzo Cotarella, Castello della Sala’s enologist at that time.
Castello della Sala, Umbria
The Umbrian estate has always posed – and still continues to pose – a continuous challenge for Marchesi Antinori who has dedicated years of research and experimentation in viticulture and oenology to maximize the potential of indigenous varieties and also to determine how the area’s microclimates contribute to the production of contemporary wines.
Chardonnay vineyards at Castello della Sala
Bramito della Sala is the estate’s 100% Chardonnay cuvee that was first produced in 1994. The grapes are from younger Chardonnay vines on the estate, sitting on soils rich in fossil deposits with veins of clay that give this wine minerality and elegance. The juice is only part barrel fermented, with malolactic fermentation lending a luscious creamy texture and flavour to the wine.
Masterclass with Allegra Antinori
The estate’s flagship wine, Cervaro della Sala, was one of the first Italian white wines to employ malolactic fermentation and ageing taking place in French oak barriques. The name Cervaro comes from the noble family who owned Castello della Sala during the 14th century: the Monaldeschi della Cervara. A blend of Chardonnay grapes and a small quantity of Grechetto (normally around 10%) make a wine that can age well over time and represents the elegance and complexity of this unique estate. After several failed attempts in the early 1980’s, the first official release was heralded in 1985 with a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Grechetto to add an Italian twist to the wine.
Archive stock sealed under cork and heavy wax.
“There is a subliminal tension between the Chardonnay and Grechetto and you kind of feel while they agree to cohabit together, they will never truly shake hands and be the best of friends. For Cervaro, this is perhaps the secret recipe, allowing the wines to retain a tension, tautness, nerve, and vigour.” ~ Allegra Antinori
Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2005, Umbria, 13% Abv.
85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto – Beautiful deep straw yellow, the 2005 has an alluring nose of crushed mint leaf, baking herbs, wet hay, burnt sugar, toffee apples and spicy, dusty, slatey minerality. The palate shows great subtlety, creamy harmony and sumptuous tertiary earthy, lemony depth. Impressive gravitas, great breadth and a beautifully complex finish of honey, camomile tea and caramelised lemons. A pleasure to drink.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2006, Umbria, 13% Abv.
85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto – The most complex of aromatics with brioche, caramel, Coche-Dury’esque struck match flinty notes, lemon pith and proviteroll richness. Incredible green gauge intensity, yellow citrus, basalt minerality, mint leaf, and honeyed camomile tea. Wonderful to see a wine finally revealing its heart and soul to the drinker after 18+ years of bottles captivity.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2009, Umbria, 13% Abv.
85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto – A beautifully complex nose that marries creamy lemon pastille and white peach confit with struck match Burgundian flinty reduction. Everything is in such superb balance, with great synergy between wood spice, minerality, and vibrant acidity. Intense and mineral, this wine reveals the true pedigree of Cervaro!
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2011, Umbria, 13.5% Abv.
90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto – Still taut, restrained mineral nose with hints of truffle, wet chalk, lemon pastille, and bruised yellow orchard fruits peppered with a delicious struck match reduction. The palate is soft, broad and sumptuous, seamlessly intense and saline backed by a wonderful backbone of pithy citrus and dusty, gravelly, minerality. Wonderful harmonious peachy, vibrant finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Marchesi Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2013, Umbria, 12.5% Abv.
90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto – Rich toasty nose brimming with buttered toast, lemon blossom, caramelised apples, and vanilla pod spice lift. The palate shows great tension, flinty minerality and piquant spicy skin and wood tannins that are beautifully integrated with yellow orchard fruits, pithy citrus and spicy lemon crumble. Taut, young, and very impressive.
The Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative is comprised of 56 families and 100+ hectares of solely Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6th of the vineyards of the appellation. Produttori del Barbaresco’s mission is clear – “Excellence in Simplicity” – and if there is one wine that encapsulates everything this incredible co-op stands for, then it must be their Langhe Nebbiolo.
The 2023 vintage in Piedmont was considered tricky as conditions were seldom steady, but overall, some good wines were made. The growing season began with a mild but wet spring. While the mild temperatures were conducive for budbreak, the intermittent rain elevated the risk of disease. However, in a break from the rain, a sudden cold snap brought frosts which damaged some of the vines.
Although the damp conditions continued into the first month of summer, the rains finally dried up only to be replaced by a series of heatwaves. At their peak, temperatures were hitting 40 degrees C. The upside of these hot conditions, however, was that it cut the threat of disease, and the grapes that did survive were well-placed to reach full phenolic ripeness. As the harvest drew to a close, the heat of the season dissipated and a slight chill took hold, even delivering a rain shower or two. For Nebbiolo, the cooler temperatures, particularly at night, brought a welcome respite while preserving vital acidity and aromatics. The majority of grapes were picked in mostly favourable conditions, and whilst not an easy vintage, some very good wines were made.
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2023, 14% Abv.
A very light translucent ruby red colour belies a wine that shows an intensely rich, ripe, fragrant fruit driven aromatics packed full of red plum jam, red cherry, Pink Lady red apples, and cranberry notes over earthy aniseed, fennel root spice and subtle cinchona quinine bark nuances. The palate entry is intense yet majestically soft and seamless with polished stony tannins that melt into a tangy, bright mouthwatering red cherry acidity. The finish is energetic and pithy, delicately phenolic with red apple spice, a delicate sapidity and a long juicy finely textured finish. Always a top class wine that overdelivers vintage after vintage, the 2023 release carries on this tradition. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Produttori del Barbaresco wines are imported and distributed in the UK by Astrum Wines.
The revolution in premium wine quality that has occurred in Italy over the past three decades must surely count as one of the wider wine success stories on a continent that has generally witnessed decreasing consumption. From Piedmont to Tuscany to Puglia, no region was left untouched by the wave of new quality wine production. Tuscany certainly grabbed its fair share of the wine headlines with Chianti Classico, Bolgheri and Montalcino leading the charge. But another great homeland of Sangiovese somehow seemed to miss out on a similar amount of fame, namely Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – and no estate in the region is more famous for their winemaking achievements over the past 15+ years than the Avignonesi Estate.
Situated in the hills of Tuscany on the edge of Montepulciano near Cortona, Avignonesi became synonymous with quality wine making as far back as the 1970s, but it was only when the estate passed into the hands of the Belgian industrialist Virginie Saverys in 2008 that the developments we now see in the estate’s vineyards and in the Avignonesi wines themselves became clear. Much of this change has focused on the vineyards, with conversion to biodynamic agriculture and organic production being the spearhead that has allowed the wines to not only soar in quality, but in a way that is true to the vineyards and terroir from which the grapes are sourced.
Owner Virginie Saverys at Avignonesi
Avignonesi is now considered a Sangiovese specialist, but they have also dedicated much effort to promote other native red and white indigenous varieties from the region, in many instances as a quality assurance in the face of global climate change. With the organic and biodynamic vineyard practices carried into the winery, owner Virginie has sought to not only allow the wines to benefit qualitatively but also the wider Avignonesi worker community.
Walking the Avignonesi vineyards.
My last visit to the estate was way back in May 2018, when I spent several days walking the vineyards, visiting and tasting at the winery and soaking up the wider Tuscan culture of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Similarly, Virginie Saverys’ journey to winery ownership began when she visited Tuscany and fell in love with the place and its wines. In 2007, she purchased 20% of Avignonesi (established in 1974) and in 2009, the two brothers who owned the winery, sold it to her in its entirety. Virginie Saverys came to winery ownership first and foremost as a wine consumer, not as a winemaker, but she did spend two years in Bordeaux immersed in vineyards and winemaking to prepare herself for winery ownership. Her background is in law and Virginie brings her lawyerly attention to every detail at Avignonesi.
Under Virginie’s tenure, Avignonesi has eliminated the use of all herbicides and pesticides in the vineyards which were certified Organic in 2016 and Biodynamic in 2019. Of the 174 hectares under vine, 99 hectares are planted to Sangiovese and fermentations only use naturally occurring yeasts, with Avignonesi’s wines now also Vegan certified. There is a genuine and meaningful commitment to the land and local natural environment and accordingly to my knowledge, Avignonesi remains the largest fully biodynamic certified estate in Europe.
Avignonesi Vin Santo cellar.
I recently caught up with their brand ambassador in London and took the opportunity to refresh my Avignonesi tasting notes with a selection of their current releases, all available in the UK through Andrew Johnson at Woodwinters.
A honey bronze yellow colour, this 2023 blend is circa 50% Orpicchio, 19% Grechetto, 12% Vermentino, and a co-fermentation of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Rich and juicy on the nose, the aromatics are full of yellow orchard fruits, melted honey on toast, with complexing hints of lychee, potpourri, and lemon herbal tea nuances. The palate is medium to full bodied, beautifully vibrant and tangy with zesty acids, a concentrated lemon and herbal white peach depth, finishing with a pithy, mouthwatering Golden Delicious appley length. Drink now to 2028+.
Another exciting expression from the Avignonesi estate that circumvents the use of stainless steel and oak barrels in favour of Tuscan clay amphorae, hence the name Da-Di was chosen, meaning “earth, soil” in Chinese. Vinified in 13 terracotta vessels made in Tuscany – 8 manufactured by Artenova in Impruneta, and 5 were manufactured by Laboratorio San Rocco in Torrita di Siena using clay from the famous Mount Amiata. An exotic blend of indigenous Tuscan varieties including 28,04% Canaiolo, 27,08% Sangiovese, 23,51% Mammolo, 15,67% Alicante, and 5,7% Ciliegiolo, the 2022 is initially slightly broody and closed on the nose as is common with Amphorae wines, but after a little air, the wine simply blossoms into an energetic expression showing bright perfumed aromatics of violets and star anise, red currants and crushed raspberries with an intricate basaltic minerality interwoven into the fabric of the wine. The texture is medium bodied but deliciously inviting, layered with chalky mineral tannins, red and black berry fruits, hints of dried baking spices and raspberry coulis, finishing with an energetically fresh, tangy bright acidity that makes the palate salivate and invites another sip. A pretty style of wine that trades on subtlety, elegance and freshness instead of overt power. Drink on release and over 3 to 5+ years.
Produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes sourced from bush vine vineyards planted between 1995 and 2017, the wine was aged for 18 months in mainly Slavonian oak casks as well as some French oak barriques and tonneaux. From a warm dry vintage, the nose reveals a seductive fragrance of ripe red cherries, sun raisined cranberries and ripe pomegranate with delicate hints of sweet sandal wood and vanilla pod spice. The palate is incredibly harmonious and inviting, with sweet fleshy Sangiovese red and black berry fruit notes coating the palate with yet more red cherry, plum compote, and subtle earthy red currant nuances. The wine shows beautifully supple tannins that are fine grained and gently mineral and drying, supported by incredibly well integrated tangy, vibrant acids. This is a wine that displays the most friendly and attractive personality of Sangiovese from Montepulciano with accessibility, precision, and elegance. Simply delicious. Drink on release and over 8 to 10 years.
As always, a 100% Sangiovese cuvee from Vino Nobile coming from a more challenging vintage, this archive release was introduced to market just as it was starting to reach its prime drinking window. A cool, subtle vintage handled with great care, the aromatics show a delicate tertiary complexity of soft black liquorice, sun raisined black berry, tilled earth, sweet Christmas spices and subtle herbal wood spice notions. Beautifully sleek and supple in the mouth, the palate reveals macerated black plums, salty liquorice, and earthy black currant wrapped in super fine-grained tannins with a sleek integrated acidity. Maturing beautifully so far, this wine might just be a sommelier’s dream ticket with its beautiful approachability. Drink now and over the next 5-8 years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.
Another terrific pure Sangiovese that shows a deliciously expressive aromatics of warm black berry compote, earthy red currants, mulberries, melted tar, and damson plum. Broody and dark fruited, on the palate the wine comes alive boasting a silky, spicy black fruited depth, sour plum, pithy black cherry and hoisin plum sauce nuances. Silky, soft and fleshy, there is a great approachability and generosity to the fruit but also a fine, noble mineral restraint. This is a top-drawer Vino Nobile with fruit harmony, a spicy complexity and great persistence on the finish. This is exactly what consumers want from this famous region!
Pure Merlot’s premium reputation in Tuscany precedes it with multiple distinguished examples earning a lot of friends around the world. While some can be rather sweet and plummy, this pretty Avignonesi expression shows an attractive aromatics of black cherries, black currant, and inky blue berries with delicate notions of salted caramel and vanilla pod oak spice. The texture is taut and chiselled, with a defined linearity and steely acid frame adding to a fine boned mineral skeletal frame that support the ample stewed black berry, black plum and mulberry fruits. This is a serious, stern, contemplative, age worthy Merlot expression with a wonderfully stony minerality, pronounced graphite nuances, and a polished pithy blueberry finish. Drink from now until 2034+.
First created in 1988 as a joint venture between friends, this 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot blend speaks of the friendship and enjoyment that sharing great bottles of wine brings into peoples’ lives. The aromatics are enticingly deep and broody, tightly packed with layers of red and black berry fruits, sweet earthy black currant, hints of mulberry and an attractive freshly baked black cherry pie nuance. The palate shows a precise, linear, mouth-watering acidity that lends extra structural ballast to the polished marble tannins, that are draped in ripe savoury blue and black berry fruits with hints of stewed winter plums, sweet balsamic reduction, and dried baking spices. A confident wine that is effortlessly balanced yet harbours a deceptively powerful depth and breadth. Enjoy this punchy, concentrated expression now and over the next 5 to 10+ years.
In a vintage shaping up globally to be one of the most sought-after in almost a decade (with perhaps the unfortunate exception of Bordeaux), the wines of 2021 continue to impress and woo the critics internationally, and the incredible new releases from the appellation of Barbaresco are certainly no exception.
This Piedmont region enjoyed another mild winter with plenty of rain and some snow, which turned out to be essential over the course of the rest of a vintage where rainfall was at its lowest level in recent years, finishing hot and fast with heat continuing well into September. The wines from 2021 are incredibly energetic, fresh and texturally exciting with the vintage already being tipped by local vignerons to be one of the truly great years with wines showing pristine fruit purity, piercing intensity, together with a majestic, classical Nebbiolo structure.
While much of Barolo has succumb to the pressures of a buoyant, thirsty international fine wine market over the past few years, Barbaresco defies the odds and remains incredibly well priced but also very much Barolos equal in terms of quality, complexity, age ability and simple winemaking precision. I recently tasted a pre-release sample of probably THE greatest value for money Barbaresco on the market from Produttori del Barbaresco, and needless to say, I was not left disappointed!
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2021, Barbaresco DOCG, 14.5% Abv.
Showing a super bright piercing aromatics of pressed red cherry, saline black berries and tart cranberry fruit complexity with fragrant undertones of polished mahogany, damp earth and a delicately herbal, floral potpourri spice melange. The palate is sleek, fulsome and absolutely brimming with tart juicy red and black Nebbiolo fruits that support an incredibly tight, fine grained tannin structure, with notes of cherry cola and pink rock candy, finishing with a sleek, sumptuous, supple sappy mineral persistence. This cooler vintage has delivered a Produttori del Barbaresco expression that surpasses possibly even some of the previous non-declared / declassified Cru Barbaresco expressions where all nine Crus were blended together into the Barbaresco normale. A simply spectacular, mouth watering wine once again.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Produttori del Barbaresco wines are imported exclusively into the UK and are available to trade from Astrum Wines.
The Burlotto family winery was established in Verduno, one of the most historic communes in Barolo, 174 years ago and today the winery produces classical Barolos with one eye firmly on tradition and the other on modernity, focusing on making wines with a real soul and an incredible sense of place. It is undoubtedly this unwavering classicism, a resolute focus on premium quality and attention to detail that has helped elevate Burlotto into the ranks of one of the most sought-after cult Barolo producers, comfortably rubbing shoulders with other iconic names likes Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno and Guisseppe Rinaldi – all of which are now desperately difficult to buy at first release prices.
After the death of their founder, Giovan Battista, the winery passed into the hands of his son Francesco, and then again, after Francesco died prematurely, to his grandson Ignazio. Courageous and far-sighted, Ignazio found himself alone at the helm of the company navigating through the most challenging periods of time during world war II. He was the only vintner of the region who continued to produce varietal Pelaverga wines, growing grapes on his own and buying small quantities from neighbouring farmers.
Ignazio Burlotto passed away in 1968, the year in which the winery passed to his daughter Marina, then only seventeen years of age. Marina, with her husband Giuseppe Alessandria, and their children Fabio and Cristina, represent the fourth and fifth generations at the helm of this historic company. With the 2020 Barolos due to arrive on the market soon, I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to have a closer look at the last three vintages of Burlotto’s Barolo ‘normale’ seeing as these are the wines people are most likely to have in their cellars rather than the super delicious – but super rare – Barolo Monvigliero cru.
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2017, 14.5% Abv.
The 2017 is an elegant expression of Nebbiolo with fragrant aromatics of polished mahogany, sweet red cherry, black berry, tar, roses and aniseed root. The palate texture is elegant and silky with fine powdery dry tannins supporting a medium to light weighted palate density where the spicy tannins and peppery herbal notes dominate a delicately translucent red and black fruited concentration. Certainly a beautiful interpretation of Barolo from a so called ‘lesser’ vintage but perhaps lacks the opulence and intensity of a riper vintage like 2016 or the accessibility of 2018. Drink now or hold comfortably for another 5 to 8+ years. But best enjoy the 2017s while the fruit is still in its ascendancy.
(Wins Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2018, 14.5% Abv.
The 2018 Burlotto Barolo is not only a classical beauty, but at its core, it possesses a wonderfully sweet, fleshy elegance and a delicious accessibility with aromatics packed full of ripe red cherry, rose petals, orange peel and vermouth spices with a hint of candied cherry bon bons. On the palate, there is a softer, less tannic spiciness than the 2017 expression, accompanied by a sweet fruited fleshy core with a notable elegance and genteel silky opulence. Fabulous balance is the order of the day, and this is certainly a wine that is incredibly pleasurable to drink now and over the next 8 to 10+ years, so bury a few bottles away in your cellar.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2019, 14% Abv.
The 2019 Barolo is made from fruit sourced from a vineyard with southern exposures at lower elevations bordering on the famous Monvigliero cru. While still noticeably youthful and taut, the aromatics offer up perfumed notes of rose petals, vibrant red cherries, ruby grapefruit, iron filings and sweet cardamon pod herbal nuances. There is a fabulous translucent clarity and an orange peel-tinged fruit purity to the wine together with tight grained powdery tannins and a chalky drying mouthfeel. Never short of freshness, even in warmer, riper vintages, the balance and equilibrium on this wine is astonishing, with a tight knit core of Verduno fruit power expertly interwoven into a complex minerality and a weightless intensity. A reassuringly classical vintage that impresses with its structural precision and polish. Drink on release if you must, but the 2019 vintage will certainly benefit from further cellaring.
Guidalberto was always known as the official second wine of Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia even though it was a slightly different blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot compared to Sassicaia’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc cuvee. First released in 2000 to mark the Millenium, it was originally conceived to be more approachable earlier than its bigger sibling Sassicaia but still retain an impressive age worthiness if cellared.
As time has passed, the Guidalberto cuvee has taken on a more individual identity to the point where it is now regarded by Tenuta San Guido as its own wine and no longer a notional second wine of Sassicaia. As such, construction commenced in 2022/3 to build Guidalberto its own dedicated winery and this is expected to be completed in late 2025 or early 2026.
Tenuta San Guido’s director of winemaking, Carlo Paoli, is on record for saying that he thought the Guidalberto 2021 was the finest vintage ever produced. So after tasting and reviewing the newly released Sassicaia 2021 recently, I decided to pull a bottle of the Guidalberto 2021 out the cellar and see how it’s looking after an extra year in bottle. With stocks still available on the open market at affordable prices, this wine seems a particularly wise buy for circa £220-£250 IB per 6 compared to Sassicaia 2021’s rather punchy £1,250 IB per 6 new release price.
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2021, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.
There doesn’t seem to be complete agreement amongst growers as to whether 2021 in Bolgheri was an easy or difficult vintage. What certainly is in agreement is that this cooler Tuscan vintage yielded some incredibly taut, intense, vibrant wines. Aged in 85% French and 15% American oak 225 litre barrels, 40% new, for 15 months, this beautiful Guidalberto 2021 boasts fabulously piercing aromatics of violets, black cherries, blackberry compote and seductive dark plum over sweet exotic Christmas spices and stony graphite notes. The oak and vanilla wood spice is still busy integrating with the super taut, tight palate fruit intensity, perhaps at a slightly slower pace than in a riper, warmer vintage. But it’s the palate’s chiselled focus and linearity that marks this vintage as a true stand out expression amongst more recent dryer, warmer years. The texture is laser focused but also wonderfully transparent showing the true mineral terroir characteristics of Bolgheri together with a wonderfully fresh, tart, glassy acidity supported by sleek, polished marble tannins on a pithy cherry cola packed finish. A vintage to be truly celebrated but also one best to bury in the cellar for an another 8 to 10+ years.
Few wine estates have captured the collective imagination of the wine trade and fine wine consumers in recent years quite like Sassicaia has, making every new vintage release a notable event in the annual fine wine calendar. “Each vintage is a small but determinant step in preserving our unique heritage and creating a long-lasting legacy. We feel a profound responsibility in offering to the world not simply a wine, but a symbol of virtuous coexistence of man and nature”, states Sassicaia General Manager Carlo Paoli.
On the 2,500-hectare estate, 115 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines are cultivated on the estate-owned plots of Castiglioncello, Aia Nuova, Cerreta, Sassicaia di Sopra and San Martino. Planted on limestone rich soils, the vineyards are located at an average altitude of between 100 and 300 meters above sea level, with exposure to the West / Southwest.
With the perfect terroir, all that is needed for an exceptional vintage of Sassicaia is an optimal vintage, and this is exactly what the estate experienced during the lead up to the 2021 vintage. The autumn of 2020 was characterized by mild temperatures and alternating rainfall. From mid-October to the second half of December the rains were more frequent, and temperatures dropped below the seasonal norm. Except for the week of Christmas, the remaining winter period was rainy and intensely cold, conditions which favoured the resting vines after several consecutive hot, dry seasons.
Sassicaia barrel cellar
The situation changed drastically in the last week of February with a sharp rise in daytime temperatures, almost spring-like, and sunny days. March was dry and generally sunny. In the very first days of April, temperatures were mild and from mid-April they began to drop dramatically again, approaching 0°C at night. Throughout the month of April and a good part of the month of May, sunny days and sporadic rains were alternating, sometimes even stormy, but with a continuation of fresh air and temperatures below the seasonal norm, especially in the early hours of the morning and at night. From the second ten days of May the weather situation changed with a substantial rise in temperatures and the definitive arrival of the beautiful season.
The vines were not affected by the strong heat of the summer months and the development of the vegetation continued regularly, although with smaller bunches and berries, suggesting a harvest of reduced quantity but also greater concentration of fruit. The progress of ripening at the end of August was stable and constant, favouring optimal phenolic ripening, and harvesting operations for the 52nd vintage of Sassicaia commenced on the 1st September under ideal weather conditions.
Sassicaia Le Difese 2022, IGT Toscana Rosso, 13.5% Abv.
0.32g/l RS| 5.60g/l TA | 3.50pH
This traditional Cabernet Sauvignon – Sangiovese blend is a super bright and crystalline offering, the aromatics subtle and sultry with a delicate smoky blackberry melange of cherry and juniper with a delicate black plum spice. In the mouth the wine is super sleek and elegant possessing ample fruit weight, silky creamy tannins and a picante, salty black currant persistence. Another wonderfully well honed, harmonious le Difese that is deliciously forward and ready to drink now and over the next 8 to 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2021, Bolgheri-Sassicaia DOCG, 14.10% Abv.
0.15g/l RS| 6.10g/l TA| 3.43pH
A truly wonderful vintage of freshness, elegance and purity, this super attractive 2021 release boasts seductive aromatics of roasted herbs, sweet sappy sandalwood spice, picante black cherry and bramble berry nuances intricately interwoven with hints of sweet, moist tobacco leaf, black cherry kirsch liquor, and a subtle crushed limestone minerality. The palate is silky and seamless, beautifully finessed into a weightless, perfectly formed fine wine with lacey tannins, a soft intricate intensity of fruit and an incredible red and black berry fruit concentration, all in perfect harmony. This wine certainly speaks of greatness and overt purity and precision that, in this cooler vintage, come together in perfect synergy. Undoubtedly ranked among Sassicaia’s greatest ever releases… and for me personally, a wine that absolutely personifies the cooler vintage affinity of this world class winery. Drink from 2025 to 2048+.
(Wine Safari Score: 99/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Tenuta San Guido wines are imported into the UK by Armit Wines and are available for retail on allocation from fine wine merchant Museum Wines.
