The Sonop farm in Koelenhof, Stellenbosch has been in the du Bois family since 1931 and of the 140 hectares under vine around 20 of those hectares are planted to Old Vine Chenin Blanc, some of which have in the past been bought by wineries such as Alheit Family Vineyards, where Gabriel worked with Chris Alheit from 2020 to 2024, as well as by Bellingham who use the fruit in their famous Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc.
Over the years, I have been persuaded by winemaker Ian Naude to do multiple wine lectures at the Elsenburg College in Stellenbosch and have built up a bit of a soft spot for the incredibly talented young students I have encountered there. Fourth-generation Gabriel du Bois also studied at Elsenburg, and this new wine is his first release under the du Bois family label, sourced from two Old Vine Chenin Blanc blocks planted in 1982 and 1986, which were whole bunch pressed, spontaneously fermented and then matured for 11 months on their fine lees in used 400 litre oak barrels. The wine was aged for an extra 6 months in bottle prior to release.
The two single vineyards behind this wine were planted on the northeastern slopes of Sonop hill in 1982 and 1986. These old heritage certified bush vines, rising above Koelenhof at 240 to 280 metres, lie on red and blue shale with fractured clay beneath, allowing deep root penetration, steady moisture uptake, and a natural fruit lift. The 2024 growing season brought heavy rain in early spring, followed by persistent, fierce False Bay breezes that dried out the topsoil and kept vigour in check. The resulting low yields delivered berries with concentration, brightness, and vivid flavour.
Du Bois Vineyards Sonop Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.
This Old Vine Chenin Blanc offers up beautifully classical aromatics of warm rain on granite, dried straw, fynbos and lemon blossoms over more seductive white peach, fresh stem ginger and green apple fruit nuances. Initially very nervy, slightly reductive and tight fisted on opening as you would expect with a young 2024 wine, the perfume and fruit slowly unfurl, offering up something extra each time you nose the glass. The steely tension and linearity initially shape the palate but given a few hours to unwind, the wine shows the vintage’s archetypal effortless concentration and seamless glycerol texture with classical restraint. Deliciously saline with mouthwatering acids, the wine remains taut, racy and incredibly precise with a long, persistent honey and pear laden finish. Still embryonic, so lock this Chenin Blanc up in the cellar and revisit with interest in 2 to 3 years’ time. A phenomenal maiden release, Gabriel du Bois is definitely an exciting new young talent to watch very closely. Drink from 2027 to 2038+.
After spending several weeks in December tasting the 2024 Burgundies in barrel with premium UK specialist importer Musigny Wines and their owner Andrew Pavli, including visiting and tasting at several of Musigny Wines’s key UK exclusive agencies such as Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot, Kei Shiogai and Domaine Koji Nakada et Jae Hwa, it became evident during the final tasting with Koji Nakada that he happened to be good friends with Cécile Tremblay, another iconic Burgundy producer that I had not yet had the privilege to visit. But as they say, it’s not what you know, it’s who you know, and after some kind introductions by Koji, Cécile Tremblay graciously agreed to host us for a tasting of a selection of her new 2024 wines.
Tasting some icon wines of Burgundy at La Lune restaurant – Domaine Tremblay, Kei Shiogai and Koji Nakada.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay is considered one of the most exciting rising stars in Burgundy at the moment and is recognized for producing wines that beautifully capture the true essence of the Côte de Nuits terroir as seen through the lens of utmost purity, elegance, and weightless concentration – a style I often refer to as “the new Burgundy.” Cécile Tremblay also happens to be the great-niece of legendary Burgundy producer Henri Jayer and has made a name for herself with wines that are crafted with a focus on organic and biodynamic practices.
Winemaker Cecile Tremblay
The domaine’s vineyards, spread across some of the finest terroirs in Burgundy, are meticulously tended to ensure that the grapes express the true character of the land. Tremblay’s wines are celebrated for their purity, finesse, and ability to age gracefully, making them highly sought-after by collectors and connoisseurs alike. Whether it’s her delicately fragrant Chambolle-Musigny or her more robust, muscular Nuits-Saint-Georges, each wine in the Domaine Cécile Tremblay portfolio is a testament to the artistry and dedication of her winemaking skills. “Since I started about ten plus years ago, my aim has been to care for the land, its subsoil, and all the species that live there. Therefore, I chose to work using organic and biodynamic farming methods on the four hectares of vines I cultivate, a large part of which comes from family land” Cécile explains.
Morey vineyards next to the Domaine Tremblay winery.
The slowly growing Domaine Cécile Tremblay range now includes a Bourgogne Cote d’Or Rouge “La Croix Blanche” and village wines from Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard, Chambolle-Musigny “Les Cabottes”, Vosne-Romanée “Vieilles Vignes” and Nuits-Saint-Georges “Albuca”. Her more ‘elevated’ vineyard sites include Premier Cru parcels from Chambolle-Musigny “Feusselottes”, Vosne-Romanée “Les Rouges du Dessus”, Vosne-Romanée “Les Beaumonts” and Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Murgers”. Finally, Cécile also cultivates parcels of Grand Cru vines from some of the most sought-after vineyards in Burgundy including Chapelle-Chambertin, Echezeaux “du Dessus”, and from the 2024 vintage, a new parcel of famed Griotte-Chambertin.
But Cécile’s success has been earned through hard work, starting out as a young female winemaker in 2003 and only managing to build her cellar in 2012, with further building work completed in 2021. All the vineyards she cultivates lie between Nuits-Saint-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin, farming organically since 2005 and biodynamically since 2016, thought she has chosen not to burden herself with the paperwork and bureaucracy of certification, rather preferring to let her wines do the talking. Though almost all the 2024 fruit harvested was 100% destemmed (tiny whole bunch fractions were included in the 2024 Grand Cru fermentations), the winemaking at the domaine often involves the use of a portion of stems during vinification, which takes place in wooden vats for up to a month, with some delicate punching down but very little pumping over. The tanks are then pressed at the end of fermentation with a small vertical press, and the wines are then raised in Burgundy barrels with between 33% and 66% new oak, for 15 to 18 months without racking. Cécile’s favoured cooper is Chassin, who works closely with her to select specific types of barrels and toasts of wood to suit her individual wine styles.
In Cecile’s impressive cellars.
The incredibly difficult 2024 vintage has been well document by now with some of the worst flowering and yields seen in decades. While even just setting foot through the hallowed doors of Cécile’s cellar in Morey Saint Denis is considered a highly coveted privilege, this year Cécile took the decision not to taste several of her smaller production wines with any journalists or critics due to the tiny quantities produced and also not wanting to potentially compromise the wines in barrel with repeated opening and closing. For Cécile, the harvest started on September 19th 2024, with vines cropped at between 5 and 25 hl / ha depending on the specific vineyard. The Bourgogne and village level wines were particularly harshly impacted in 2024, more so than the Grand Cru sites.
The Tremblay winery in Morey Saint Denis.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay – Purity and Elegance Shine in 2024:
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Bourgogne Côte d’Or 2024
Racked one week prior before being tasted in January 2026, this is an extraordinarily beautifully fragrant wine showing seductive aromatics, lifted and oh so pretty, bursting with pink musk, black cherry, and saline black berries with a delicate dusting of limestone minerality. The energy and freshness on the palate are palpable, pulsing with energy and intensity, a soft under belly of fine-grained mineral tannins bolstering the elegant, finessed texture. Really very, very pretty indeed. Drink 2026 to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 90-92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Morey Saint Denis Tres Girard 2024
A low yielding vintage at around 7 or 8 hl/ha, this is another beautiful wine displaying layers of blue and black berry fruits, and black cherry notes that intermingle with fragrant violets and a delicate sapidity. The palate is rich and concentrated, weightlessly intense with sweet black currants, savoury black cherry with a delicately minty nuance on the finish. With an earthy savoury undertone, this wine packs a lot of depth and complexity with a beautifully spicy finish. A truly enticing offering. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.
Made from grapes sourced from the Aux Commune and Les Jacquines lieu dits sites, this 2024 displays an incredibly intense perfumed aromatics brimming with violets and white blossoms over savoury dark black berry fruits, damson plum, black currant, and blue berries with subtle hints of earthy loam and subtle Asian spices. The palate depth is impressive, creamy, and almost lactic in texture, the tannins sweet and chocolatey with a picante cocoa spicy finish. Full and chalky, this wine is deceptively broad with notable extract and a real understated power. Drink 2027 to 2044+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93-94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 2024
The aromatics are intense and striking, piercingly fragrance and intensity, with layers of saline black berry and oyster shell intertwined with violets, red currants, wild strawberry and a hint of tart plum. Beautifully elegant in the mouth, this wine shows a tenderness, a seductive elegance and an understated weightless intensity, finishing with a gently brûléed, velvety oak kissed finish. Impressive intensity and candied, musk-laden complexity. A beautiful expression. Drink 2027 to 2044+.
(Fine Wine Safari: 93-94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Rouges 2024
Always a fresher cooler site facing northeast, this 2024 shows a bright, lifted, extroverted perfumed aromatics full of pink flowers, violets, musk, and delicately sappy notes over pronounced chalky limestone minerality and peppery spice. The fruit sits on the palate with a gentle glycerol weight, coating the mouth with a weightless intensity, more waves of spice and stony minerality, finishing with delicately tart, bright, savoury red and black berry fruits. Texturally linear and incredibly polished and precise, this wine harbours some real understated power and pedigree. Drink 2027 to 2044+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93-95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Rouges 2023
When we finished the 2024 En-primeur barrel tasting, Cécile very kindly opened a ‘bottled’ 2023 Les Rouges for comparison. The aromatics are delightfully youthful, complex and broody recalling small, dark, saline black berried fruits, wild strawberry, and savoury bramble berry notes. The tannins are firm yet incredibly polished and precise, framing this elegantly pure cuvee handsomely, the mouthfeel beautifully harmonious and the fruit concentration supple, crystalline and intensely pure. Not the most common 1er Cru vineyard in Vosne Romanee but fast becoming one of my favourites! Drink from 2026 to 2042+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Later in the evening, I shared a phenomenal dinner with importer Musigny Wines’ owner Andrew Pavli at La Lune restaurant in Beaune with another Burgundy sensation, Kei Shiogai, who Musigny Wines import exclusively into the UK, and who also happens to be a massive fan of Cécile’s delicious fine wines. With a short but well-chosen selection of wines on the La Lune list, we sniffed out another two delightful 2021 wines from the Domaine Tremblay lineup which we enjoyed over dinner and who’s notes are included below.
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Chambolle Musigny Les Cabottes 2021, 13% Abv.
This crisp fresh low yielding vintage shares a lot in common with the 2024 styling at many domaines. The delicious Cabottes 2021 is beautifully complex showing cardamom, red currant, wild strawberry and earthy brambly fruits. This wine is all about freshness, precision and energy which really shines on the palate with a bristling acidity, tart nervy red and black berry fruits and taut polished linear tannins. But don’t be fooled, despite the tension, there is plenty of flesh on the bone. Stunning purity, focus and intensity. Drink 2026 to 2042+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Domaine Cecile Tremblay Morey Saint Denis Tres Gerard 2021, 13% Abv.
This is a thoroughly classic Morey with intense notes of blue and black berry fruits, violets, black cherry and subtle lactic nuances. On the palate, the tension and acidity slightly mask the fruit depth, but given time in the glass, the power, weightless concentration and fruit power really shine without defeating Cecile’s philosophical mission of finesse and elegance with terroir character. A really impressive wine showing beautifully already. Drink now to 2044+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Many thanks to Andrew Pavli at Musigny Wines for unlocking the cellar doors of some of Burgundy’s most sought-after producers for me to review. Contact Musigny Wines to learn about new release allocations from some of Burgundies most iconic growers.
Last year I paid an excellent visit to see Chris Keet, the winemaker at the Van Biljon winery in Stellenbosch in the Polkadraai Hills, situated just behind the Raats Family Winery. I was fortunate enough to taste a selection of lovely back vintages including the Cinq maiden release Van Biljon as well as their yet unreleased 2021. But with their 2020 blend only hitting the market now, I thought I would take another look at this exciting new release from what was quite a complicated Cape vintage.
In general, it is always difficult to generalise about Polkadraai Hills vintages as so often they depart from the Stellenbosch norm with their cool, south facing vineyards overlooking False Bay, benefiting from cooling breezes off the cold Atlantic Ocean. In 2020, good winter rains in 2019 laid the foundation for a “good, solid” vintage. Fortunately, the grapes were harvested and in the cellar by the end of March before Covid-19 started a mad scurry in the wider Cape winelands. Overall, the growing season was moderate to cool with timely in-season rainfall which laid the foundations for yet another high-quality vintage. A beautifully composed wine, the Cinq 2020 draws on the best elements of each cultivar in the blend and delivers a really distinguished expression that must surely rank among the top Cape Bordeaux blend examples of the vintage. Known for its high scoring consistency, the Van Biljon Cinq is slowly becoming a Stellenbosch phenomenon, and 2020 looks to continue this trend.
Van Biljon Cinq 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
The 2020 Cinq cuvee is a majestic blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, the wine shows an enticingly fragrant, lifted, exuberant aromatics marked with sweet violets, piquant cedar spice, wet tobacco leaf, black currant and pronounced graphite lead pencil nuances. Lifted and airy, the palate is intricate and multi-dimensional revealing an energetic, vivacious character with the most seductive fine grained velvety tannins, cool spicy black currant and black cherry fruit notes, and a most agreeably fulsome and harmoniously textured balance on the spicy finish. It is surely this wine’s classical balance, effortless intensity and elegant concentration that makes it yet another incredibly attractive Cape Bordeaux blend offering. Drink now to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Van Biljon wines are available to trade in the UK from specialist importer Woodwinters, and to consumers from reputable merchants like Museum Wines.
The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was nothing short of dramatic. For those tending the vines, it was a growing season shaped by an extraordinary mix of weather patterns which produced wines of remarkable balance and complexity. At the time, the oenologists echoed what many were feeling: “Bordeaux, by some miracle compared to many French wine regions, is preparing for an exceptional vintage.” Within the context of this historical pronouncement, and a surfeit of high critical scores dished out at En-primeur time, the only thing that can settle the status of this vintage once and for all is a “10 years on” tasting of bottled wines. Many thanks to Bordeaux Index for the opportunity to assess a phenomenal selection of top Chateaux wines.
A wet and cold winter set the stage for the 2016 vintage, with rainfall in the first six months of the growing season matching that of the entire previous year. Then, from mid-June to mid-August, the weather shifted dramatically, bringing a long, hot, and dry summer, followed by just 20mm of rain in early September. For many winemakers, that combination was a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the dry heat during July and August was a worry – especially on gravelly soils or younger vines which struggled with water stress.
On the other hand, the soils that had stored the winter’s water, especially clay and limestone plots, proved their worth and sustained the vines throughout the drought. Then came a timely and gentle revival: light rains in mid-September, followed by a long Indian-summer stretch – warm days, cool nights, and slowed-down ripening.
Christian Seely from Pichon Baron and Veronique Sanders from Haut Bailly.
As a result, many of the top estates found themselves harvesting remarkably late, often stretching far into October, allowing grapes the time they needed for full phenolic maturity: deep colour, rich tannins, well concentrated flavours, but without excess alcohol or overripe jammy fruit. As Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin noted, it was the first time in the estate’s history that harvest didn’t begin until October. Overall, the vintage was characterised by a balance of fruit and high (but supremely ripe) tannins with fresh acidity and pleasingly moderate alcohol levels.
Many thanks to Bordeaux Index for the opportunity to assess a phenomenal selection of top Chateaux wines.
The 2016 Bordeaux Selection:
Chateau Cheval Blanc 2016, Saint Emilion
Lifted and perfumed. Silky and utterly sophisticated.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Ausone 2016, St Emilion
Dark tight and broody. More black berry intensity. Chiselled and fresh. Precise.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Red fruit, cedar, black berry. Earthy, Xmas spice. Class.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Rich, broad expansive aromatics. Black currant and graphite. Incredible depth. Very impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 99+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Margaux 2016, Margaux
Fragrant cassis and saline black fruits. Silky, precise and fine grained.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2016, Pauillac
More savoury and brûléed. Dense and powerful with beautifully chalky tannins. A classic Mouton.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2016, Pauillac
Red and black berry fruits, exotic lifted perfume. Silky soft, pristine and very persistent.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Latour 2016, Pauillac
Complex salty cassis, oyster shell, graphite with a dense seamless palate, impressive power with phenomenal finesse. Bold wine. As close to perfection as possible.
(Wine Safari Score: 100/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Le Pin 2016, Pomerol
Mint chocolate chip, black berry and damson plum. Sweet fruited, generous palate and beautifully exotic.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Lafleur 2016, Pomerol
Beautifully exotic and complex, but also intricate. Brûléed, dark berries, salted cassis with a long luxurious creamy finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Petrus 2016, Pomerol
Dense, creamy and delicately lactic with chocolate praline notes, pithy graphite tannins and a cool finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Angelus 2016, Saint Emilion
Deep dense ripe black fruits, cassis, sapidity, full and powerful. Opulent and accessible.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Belair Monange 2016, Saint Emilion
Smoky chalky nose, graphite and black currant compote. Dense and compact power. Very smart.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Canon 2016, Saint Emilion
Graphite, black currant, sleek, silky, sophisticated. Superb.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Canon La Gafaliere 2016, Saint Emilion
Dark, spicy, picante intense fruit, raisined cherries and a chalky finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Figeac 2016, Saint Emilion
Fabulous oak – fruit integration. Complex and classy. Very silky and complete. Sensational.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Clos Fourtet 2016, Saint Emilion
Deep, dark and broody. Spicy mineral tannins, graphite hints and plenty of limestone grip.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau L’IF 2016, Saint Emilion
Touch stewed, raisined black berries. Fleshy, ripe expression. Exuberant.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Gaffeliere 2016, Saint Emilion
Rich and textured. Plenty of ripeness and power. Black fruits are slightly raisined on the finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Mondotte 2016, Saint Emilion
Warm toasty aromatics, plush and creamy, full throttle but beautifully fresh. A great success.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Pavie 2016, Saint Emilion
Dense and dark, packed with blue and black berry fruits. Chewy tannins, dry grippy limestone length. Serious.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Pavie Macquin 2016, Saint Emilion
Dusty limestone, liquor and creme de cassis. Cool and supple, elegant and vibrant. This is classy.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Quintus 2016, Saint Emilion
Earthy savoury black fruits. Polished but slightly baked black berry compote style on the finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Troplong Mondot, Saint Emilion, 15.5% Abv.
Broody black fruited nose, the palate silky, tangy and super vibrant. Very seductive.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Valandraud 2016, Saint Emilion
Earthy savoury black fruits. Dense, mineral grip. Slightly austere on the finish. But classical power.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Conseillante 2016, Pomerol
Brûléed, exotic enticing nose. Creamy and cool, packed with blue and purple fruits. Simply sensational.
(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau L’Evangile 2016, Pomerol
Silky, opulent and utterly seductive! Very polished example.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Lafleur-Gazin 2016, Pomerol
Ripe savoury black berry fruits, pithy, ripe. Chiselled tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Hosanna 2016, Pomerol
Salty, picante black berry fruits. Oyster shell, cassis and a long creamy finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2016, Pomerol
Graphite, wood smoke and creasote on the nose. Broad creamy palate with polished tannins, silky drying finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Trotanoy 2016, Pomerol
Broody black currant fruits, creamy and mineral. Power packed. Wow.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau La Violette 2016, Pomerol
Blue black fruits, effortless concentration, light and airy but still substantial.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Clinet 2016, Pomerol
Silky, complex, very complete wine. Cool and mineral. Textured but such class!
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol, 14.5% Abv.
Juicy red and black berry fruits, graphite, limestone and mineral lift. Dense, creamy and very classy.
(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Haut-Bailly 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Lovely melange of savoury earth and black berry. Compact, dense, silky but plenty of power.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Intricate, perfumed and exotic, very enticing. Compact but sleek. Silky tannins, fresh and elegant. True class.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Savoury, truffle, exotic and complex. Creamy and intense.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Domaine de Chevalier 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Ripe red berry fruits, graphite and limestone, densely textured, compact and true class. Wow.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan
Earth, truffle, savoury black fruits. Fabulous creamy depth, intricate acids, and true class.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Clarence de Chateau Haut Brion, 13.5% Abv.
Supple, silky and soft, plenty of earthy minerality, with a taut grippy finish. Punches way above its price point.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau D’Issan 2016, Margaux
Plenty of brûléed black fruit, creamy tannins and earthy black currant compote finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Palmer 2016, Margaux
Cool, pure black fruits, impressive intensity and length. Very elegant with underlying power.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Leoville Barton 2016, Saint Julien
A dense, compact wine with impressive depth and power, tantalisingly structured for the long haul. Yes please!
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Pontet-Canet 2016, Pauillac
This is super juicy, vibrant and textured with a tangy acidity, fabulous saline crème de cassis depth. Really lovely opulence.
(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Les Forts de Latour 2016, Pauillac
Complex layered wine with tilled earth, black berries and wet tobacco. Super serious.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Carruades de Lafite 2016, Pauillac
Medium weight, elegant and silky with black currant, damson plum and black cherry depth.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Le Petit Mouton 2016, Pauillac
Creamy black fruited depth, graphite, tilled earth with delicate mint and milk chocolate nuances.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau Pichon Baron 2016, Pauillac
Dense, compact, powerful expression full of earthy black berry fruit, sweet tannins. graphite and cedar spice. Plenty of stuffing for the long haul.
The Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard selection was an annual release chosen from three of the best Malbec wines of each harvest produced by Trapiche’s head winemaker Daniel Pi. Changing every year, some vineyard selections eventually started to reappear over time, proving the vineyards’ exceptional terroir and quality potential. The wines were made to communicate the extraordinary potential of Argentina’s vast array of terroirs and their effect on their flagship cultivar – Malbec.
This 2008 selection, which I thought was the best of the three single vineyard releases at the time, was sourced from the Jorge Miralles vineyard. Jorge was born in Chivilcoy, a province of Buenos Aires, and came to Mendoza when he was 8 years old. His father was a wine broker and in 1960, he decided to invest all his savings into an estate in La Consulta. Jorge subsequently inherited the estate and four years later he sold it to invest in a bigger vineyard also located in La Consulta. 68-year-old Jorge (in 2008) dedicated a great deal of his life to working this vineyard located at 970 metres altitude.
Trapiche Malbec Vina Jorge Miralles Malbec 2008 Single Vineyard La Consulta, Mendoza, 15% Abv.
This is a phenomenal Malbec expression that at 18 years old is simply singing. Spending 18 months in new French oak barrels, this “Jorge Miralles” vineyard was only 10 years old when harvested in 2008 and offers up some incredibly expressive aromatics with a youthful perfume and fruit profile you would think is no more than 5 years old if tasted blind. The nose is full of deep, dark, blue, and black berry fruits, damson plums, blueberries, black cherries, and a defined vein of melted salty black liquorice. While this wine used to have a broad spectrum of dusty cocoa and mocha chocolate powder characters on release, now, this character has tightened up and turned into a picante black bitter chocolate note. On the palate, the colour is still dense, opaque, and impenetrable with a cool fleshy entry on first taste, the tannins incredibly sweet and creamy, supported by plush, juicy, black berry fruits, mulberry and black currant compote. While obviously made in a ripe style, the alcohol is imperceptible and the balance super cool, sleek and harmonious. I loved this wine on release and knew it had enough stuffing for the long haul, but I would never have expected it to age this well. What a beauty! At 18 years old, there is no rush to drink this outstanding 2008 Malbec which should still age gracefully for another decade or more.
Travelling to Burgundy to taste the previous vintage’s creations can be a somewhat tricky affair especially when producers across the region, in the Cotes de Nuits, Cotes de Beaune and the Maconnais all experienced such incredibly difficult vintage conditions in 2024. So, perhaps tasting through their more plentiful 2023 range serves as a timely distraction for a producer. I was very fortunate to be introduced to Japanese young gun Kei Shiogai several years ago and have gratefully been granted access to taste his wines every year from barrel and bottle since his maiden 2020 commercial releases. A relative newcomer to the Burgundy region, Kei is understandably quite protective about his winemaking philosophy, his pristine cellar and his overall privacy. Quite rightly, he prefers to let his wines do the talking.
In complete contrast to 2024, the 2023 harvest will be remembered for a plentiful, abundant harvest with generous yields, ample ripeness, and notable concentration usually commensurate with the quality of the wines’ individual terroir and level of appellation classification. While 2022 saw easy conditions for vignerons across the board, the weather circumstances in 2023 perhaps posed a few more questions, but ultimately yielding energetic, crystalline Chardonnays with a notable minerality and freshness alongside the fruit ripeness, and Pinot Noirs with delightfully sweet strawberry and red cherry-laced berry fruits that display plenty of clarity, a bright translucent purity together with linear fresh acids. Overall, the across-the-board vintage quality for red and white wines was incredibly consistent across villages with excellent balance, moderate alcohols, and elegant fruit purity.
While the 2023 vintage was neither cool and wet like 2021 or hot and dry like 2022, the season was marked by an initial warm, dry winter with a meagre amount of sunshine. The rains returned in March while the months of April and May were bright and sunny but relatively cool. Excellent flowering in May and June with perfect conditions, sealed the requirements for a potentially very generous crop. If June was warm, unseasonally cooler conditions in July and August prolonged the ripening somewhat before several heat spikes arrived in late August and early September to bring the fruit to full ripeness. Some are calling 2023 another solar vintage, or années solaires, but this description perhaps simplifies conditions unnecessarily.
The Charmots 1er Cru has been in new oak barrels for 25 months when I tasted it again in December 2025. This wine will be bottled and released in 2026. Not to be missed. Could possibly be one of the most exciting red Burgundy releases of 2026?
The general wine merchant consensus is that 2023 is a very generous, fruit forward vintage with joyfully fresh whites that will even appeal to the classicists, and reds that range from lighter-bodied, fresh, and remarkably drinkable examples already through to more structured, riper, denser wines where producers clearly made a conscious effort to coax a little more structure and tension from their wines in light of the potential dangers of dilution from higher yields.
Being one of the most sought after and collectable producers in Burgundy at the moment undoubtedly carries with it a few added headaches for Kei – from endless new requests for primary first release allocations in new and historical markets to highly inflated secondary market prices that always seem to benefit speculators rather than the producers themself. Nevertheless, fame at this level understandably always comes at a price, but so far, Kei is keeping his head down and focusing (or more like obsessing!) over the purity, precision and focus of his incredibly ethereal, elegant “new style” Burgundies that have captivated the global market.
Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin Village 2023
An enticingly perfumed aromatics bursting with violets and lilac, luscious red berry fruits, red plum, red cherry, pink musk and sweet strawberry confit. Silky, wonderfully fine boned and supple with incredible purity and precision with soft powdery tannins and a crystalline red berry purity, this is signature Kei Shiogai that finishes with a hint of sapidity and spice. A very pretty wine indeed. Drink from 2025 to 2035.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin “Baraques” 2023
The Baraques cuvee shows a deeper, darker, bolder black plum colour in the glass with a broodier aromatics of black cherry, ripe strawberry, and black plum. Inviting notes of saline creme cassis and pink musk follow to the palate that shows a regal finesse and clarity as well as all Kei’s hallmark purity and pinpoint precision. Spectacular translucent fruit purity, weightless silky tannins and a long, intense brambly finish. Quite sublime. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Pommard Poisot 2023
A sleeping giant of a wine packed with dark broody purple and black berry fruits, black cherry, strawberry and saline creme de cassis. Taut and stony on the palate, this shows the power and tension of Pommard with a vein of graphite and limestone minerality, yielding tight grained polished marble tannins, pithy black berry fruits and a chalky dry extract grip on the finish. A classic “iron fist in a velvet glove” expression. Youthful but already magnificent. Drink from 2026 to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes 2023
An intricate floral aromatics with fabulous poise and precision, boasting violets and cherry blossom, creme de cassis, wild strawberry, graphite and piquant mineral spices. The clarity and purity are mesmerising, the light touch intensity and focus simply astounding. No shortage of piercing red and black berry 1er Cru power here, with notable concentration and creamy mouth coating tannins. True Gevrey class on display. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Echezeaux Grand Cru 2023
A broody beast of a wine offering an aromatic depth of Asian spices, graphite, violets, wild strawberry, earthy cured meats and savoury Christmas spices. Full, broad and fully loaded in the mouth, the concentration is rich, glycerol and intricately textural but supremely powerful, distinguished, yet beautifully precise. The Kei Shiogai signature style applied with classical winemaking. Surely a true unicorn wine of the future. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.
Located in the commune of Puligny Montrachet, the Les Famelottes shows a beautiful melange of wet limestone, yellow stone fruits, pear and green apple, roasted nuts with delicate dried herb nuances. So supple, soft, and fleshy in the mouth with a generous depth and subtle balance. Really very impressive and also truly delicious making this a good introduction to Kei’s precise winemaking style. Drink from 2025 to 2032+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2023
Cool, taut mineral aromatics reveal the true class and majesty of this great appellation. The aromatics are full of pithy lemon peel, pear, waxy green apples and a pronounced limestone mineral vein. The balance and textural precision are second to none, crystalline and beautifully focused, showing purity with immeasurable intensity and effortless elegance. Truly sublime. A great expression of this 1er Cru terroir. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet Village 2023
Taut and broody, this is 100% new oak expression shows no overt oak characters on the nose but merely the faintest complexing hints of dried herbs, lemon grass and lemon herbal tea before more classical notes of grilled nuts, salted pistachios, and dusty limestone minerality. Power packed and pithy, but also quite a taut, classical Puligny expression. Drink from 2025 to 2035.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeux 2023
Fabulously cool, pure, and crystalline, this barrel sample reveals incredible wound spring tension, a stony limestone core, lemon rind, lemon grass, and toasted almonds. Precision personified on the palate, the concentration is weightless and harmonious, the finish long, glycerol and delicately savoury and nutty. Wow! Another stunner from Kei. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Chassagne Montrachet Village 2023
This Chassagne shows beautifully attractive aromatics of lemon cordial, wild herbs, pithy wet limestone, and yellow stone fruits. Plenty of “gras” or weight on the mid-palate but still deliciously fresh, creamy, and harmonious. This is another delicious addition to the repertoire of great Chassagne whites! Drink from 2025 to 2035.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet Les Petit Grands Champs 2023
This lieu dit Puligny shows an intense, lemon and lime saline intensity with tangy bright acids. Beautiful balance and harmonious mouthfeel. Also great length with just a kiss of white toast and freshly baked brioche on the long, persistent finish. Drink from 2025 to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023
This fabulous terroir really shines in Kei’s hands, showing liquid minerals, wet limestone, lemon grass, sweet baking herbs, and warm buttered white toast. Plush textured and densely layered with notable dry extract but also a seamlessly creamy texture and an incredibly harmonious, balanced equilibrium on the palate. A decidedly more terroir driven, linear, minerally infused expression of Corton-Charlemagne than some of the more unctuous, buttery examples produced. Undeniably a profound wine and simply drop dead gorgeous. Drink from 2025 to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The wines of Kei Shiogai are imported into the UK exclusively by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli to request an allocation.
Jerome Galeyrand has been listed as one of the most exiting producers in Burgundy over the past few years, topping many wine critics’ lists of “winemakers to watch” in Burgundy in the past 5 years. His winemaking style, that is all about purity, precision and focus, has elevated both his whites and reds into the highly collectable ranks. But 2025 saw yet more seismic change when Jerome moved into his newly built winery in Gevrey Chambertin, just next to Brochon.
Jerome has also been a well recognized and highly influential member of Les Aligoteurs, the local grouping promoting everything that’s great about this often under appreciated Burgundian white cultivar. With my long running “Age of Bourgogne Aligote” series running a bit dry lately, it was suddenly revived when I tasted one of the finest expressions of Aligote in a very long time… just unfortunately from, A) a tiny production 2024 vintage, and B) from a vineyard that has now been replanted to Chardonnay. Nevertheless, this is an incredibly exciting, noteworthy example worth seeking out in the up coming Burgundy En-primeur 2024 campaign.
Domaine Jerome Galeyrand Bourgogne Aligote Les Cailloux 2024
The 2024 Bourgogne Aligote Les Cailloux was actually sourced from an old vine vineyard in the Rully appellation that has since been uprooted and replanted with Chardonnay making this Jerome’s first and last creation. But boy, it’s as if that vineyard wanted to go out with a bang as this 2024 is one of the most profound Aligote offerings I’ve tasted in quite some time. Showing impressively intricate aromatics, the nose reveals complex layers of savoury leesy citrus, white blossoms, white peach, and a briney salinity before crushed limestone and lemon peel nuances. Super concentrated, this wine has a punchy, fleshy depth with a palate weight and power more akin to a top terroir driven mineral-laden Chardonnay. Wow, this really is phenomenal wine worth seeking out! Drink from 2026 to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The wines of Jerome Galeyrand are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli for an allocation.
In South Africa, the Old Vine Project (OVP) exists to protect the heritage of old vines and to ensure that old vineyards continue to thrive. Old vines are living history. Wines made from them embody decades of care, skill, and dedication. In South Africa, the OVP affords producers the opportunity to certify their old vine vineyards and wines. That it can do so is largely thanks to the South African Wine Industry Information Systems (SAWIS) database, and its records dating back to 1900. This database enables the OVP to verify planting dates and gives South Africa a unique global advantage – traceability and credibility. Members of the OVP may apply for the Certified Heritage Vineyards seal that clearly states the planting date for wine made from vineyards of 35 years or older.
When consumers think of the majority of Old Vine wines, chances are they will reference Chenin Blanc or Colombard, cultivars planted on mass years ago mostly for distillation. However, when it comes to red cultivars, the diversity of Old Vine wines on offer is a little more restricted. But among the leaders of the pack has to be Cinsault and Pinotage, two work horse varietals in the South African wine landscape.
Fuselage Wines Staggerwing Old Vines Cinsault 2021, WO Paarl, 12.5% Abv.
Danie Morkel is the acclaimed winemaker for Roodekrantz who also happens to make wines under his own boutique label called Fuselage – his family owns the Diemerskraal airfield between Wellington and Malmesbury which obligingly lends Danie’s brand the aviation link. Planted in 1954, Danie finds beauty in the mundane workhorse of Cinsault that has stood the test of time, endearing it to its operatives and taking it to an elevated status, to one of a classic and collectable wine.
This 2021 is a charming expressive Cinsault red displaying intricate aromatics of fragrant pink flowers and rose petals, tart cranberries and red cherries over a savoury, earthy base of wet loam. The palate is cool and well defined, the crisp acidity lending a fine frame over which sleek, crystalline, translucent red berry fruits are elegantly draped. The fruit sweetness is subtle and sophisticated allowing a wet stone pithy minerality to shine through on the finish. Elegant, delightfully easy drinking and utterly charming. Drink now to 2032+.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Welgegund Heritage Wines Old Vine Cinsault 2024, WO Wellington, 12.5% Abv.
Established in 1777 and lovingly restored by the Brimacombe family since 2014, Welgegund – a Dutch word meaning “well bestowed” – regards their Heritage range of wines as a key part of their legacy with their Certified Heritage Vineyards a source of great pride. Their Certified Heritage Vineyard that produces their Cinsault grapes was planted in 1974. It is a dryland, bush vine and low yielding vineyard that produces top quality fruit. This Southwest facing vineyard has ancient, decomposed granite soils that add to the minerality in the wine and the vines are packed with hay bales at their feet to retain moisture and as a natural way of keeping weeds at bay. The fruit is harvested by hand in the early morning and cool grapes are delivered to the winery where the grapes go to open top fermenters, in mostly whole bunch clusters with stalks intact, and are then aged for 12 months in 500 litre French oak barrels before being bottled unfiltered in June 2025. Only 1,400 bottles were produced.
Wellington is of course home to the oldest Cinsault vineyard in South Africa (Basson Vineyard), so unsurprisingly, this 1974 Old Vine expression also shows plenty of pedigree loaded with attractive aromatics of wild strawberries, mulberries, and Pink Lady apples with a delicate dusting of cracked pepper spice and Granitic minerality. On the palate, the wine is soft, supple and approachable with a harmoniously fleshy mid palate that reveals cool, well integrated acids, a hint of salinity, silky powdery tannins and a pithy, red cherry fruited finish. Open, generous and beautifully approachable. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Bellevue Heritage Pinotage 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
Bellevue Stellenbosch is the oldest commercial producer of Pinotage in South Africa having produced South Africa’s first bottled Pinotage. Bellevue’s story is one of bold decisions and forward thinking. When Pieter Krige (P.K.) Morkel couldn’t find Gamay vines in 1953, he embraced a pioneering South African cultivar: Pinotage. This decision not only shaped Bellevue’s identity but also contributed to the global recognition of Pinotage as a uniquely South African wine. Bellevue currently works with the oldest average vine age in Stellenbosch with their youngest block 25+ years old and their oldest 73 years old.
Bellevue winemaker Wilhelm Kritzinger.
This 2021 Pinotage is another special heritage wine with a profound sense of place from one of the oldest commercial Pinotage vineyards in the world. A registered single vineyard planted in 1953, this 1.85 hectare sustainably farmed old bush vine vineyard reveals an incredibly complex and exotic aromatics that’s multi-layered with red and black bramble berry fruits, hints of dark chocolate and peppermint crisp, and an infusion of sage and bay leaf dried herbs. The palate is full bodied but supple with a broad, creamy, luxurious opulence that is embellished with lashing of sweet black currant and mulberries, Christmas spice and a deliciously sweet and sour acidity that slowly melts away on the long concentrated finish. Deliciously accessible but super serious as well. Drink now to 2036+.
In South Africa, the Old Vine Project (OVP) exists to protect the heritage of old vines and to ensure that old vineyards continue to thrive. Old vines are living history. Wines made from them embody decades of care, skill, and dedication. In South Africa, the OVP affords producers the opportunity to certify their old vine vineyards and wines. That it can do so is largely thanks to the South African Wine Industry Information Systems (SAWIS) database, and its records dating back to 1900. This database enables the OVP to verify planting dates and gives South Africa a unique global advantage – traceability and credibility. Members of the OVP may apply for the Certified Heritage Vineyards seal that clearly states the planting date for wine made from vineyards of 35 years or older.
The OVP journey began in 2002 when ex-lawyer and vineyard manager Rosa Kruger started documenting old vines. In 2016, the Old Vine Project was formalised as an Non Profit Company. Since then, awareness and momentum have grown steadily. Today, with more than 5,000 hectares of old vines and over 350 Certified Heritage Vineyards wine bottled each year, the OVP has become a leader in both preservation and innovation. The OVP is committed not only to preserving existing old vines, but also to advancing research on old vines, developing the skills of those who care for them, and fostering climate-resilient practices; ensuring that today’s young vines have the opportunity to mature into the heritage vineyards of the future.
ACHIEVEMENTS
Achievements to date include:
Old vineyard hectarage in South Africa has increased from 2,952 ha in 2016 to 5,159 ha in 2024 — a 75% increase in eight years.
OVP membership has grown from 8 members in 2017 to over 130 members in 2025, with more than 350 Certified Heritage Vineyard wines per vintage.
The Certified Heritage Vineyards seal provides consumers and trade with proof of authenticity, quality, and traceability, increasingly required in international markets.
Launch of the Certified Heritage Vineyards Grape Trading Platform, connecting old vine growers with winemakers.
Development of the Old Vine Pruning Course with FELCO Africa, training pruners in specialised vineyard care.
Establishment of the Old Vine Academy, an online learning platform for the wine industry, trade, and media.
Partnership with Vititec since 2008 to develop clean plant material from old vines, resulting in ‘Heritage Selections’.
Collaboration with InterLoire confirming that some South African Chenin Blanc selections are extinct in France, and are now safeguarded in clonal gardens in France.
Research breakthroughs with various local and international research projects.
Recognition in international works such as The World Atlas of Wine.
Dedicated old vine wine sections in leading retailers and restaurants locally and internationally.
Recognition at leading wine competitions and wine guides.
At its 22nd General Assembly, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) adopted Resolution OIV-VITI 703-2024, formally recognising the work of initiatives such as the Old Vine Conference, Old Vine Project, Old Vine Registry, and Censimento Vecchie Vigne. The resolution defines an old grapevine as a documented vine at least 35 years old (with grafts undisturbed for the same period), and an old vineyard as a legally defined block where at least 85% of vines meet this definition.
Donkiesbaai Steen 2025, WO Piekenierskloof, 13.37% Abv.
Donkiesbaai is a brand that was started by Jean Engelbrecht, owner of Stellenbosch estate Rust en Vrede, with the name based on a familiar family holiday spot up the Cape West Coast. Made from Chenin Blanc (or Steen in Afrikaans) fruit from the Piekenierskloof from old vines planted in 1986 and 1988, 70% of the wine was barrel fermented and matured in 500 litre French oak barrels and 30% naturally fermented in concrete eggs on its fine lees with monthly batonnage to enhance the richness and texture of the wine.
On the nose, there is a complex melange of fragrant white lemon blossoms, Granitic stony minerality over white citrus fruits and crunchy pear with a delicate sprinkling of dried herbs and fynbos. Youthful and energetic, this wine really shows the power, clarity, and intensity of the superb 2025 vintage, with layers of crunchy pineapple, green apple, white peach, and lemon crumble nuances. There is so much energy with a juicy tangy acidity that makes this wine a true mouth-watering treat. Still very fruit forward and primary, I suspect with a little more time in bottle, this impressive Chenin Blanc will slowly reveal its true Weskus salinity and underlying maritime influence, offering evolving drinking pleasure from release and over the next 10 to 15+ years. A true testament to the quality potential and pedigree of Old Vine Chenin Blanc.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Roodekrantz Donkermaan Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 12.6% Abv.
Roodekrantz Wines focuses primarily on the production of single-vineyard, site-specific wines from certified old vineyards. Their vision is to understand and nurture the vineyards they work with, doing everything possible to preserve their longevity and keep them rooted in the soil. Simply put, their winemaking philosophy is to capture the essence of the vineyard in the bottle with minimal intervention. Working exclusively with old barrels, their Chenin Blancs often undergo spontaneous malolactic fermentation, adding further complexity and texture to the wines. The Donkermaan vineyard’s vines planted in 1984 are 42 years old and sit at an altitude of 250 meters above sea level. Located in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg area, the old bush vines are dry land farmed in soils of deep red clay, a mix of Sandstone and Granite with a high iron content formed through the weathering of the surrounding mountains.
The aromatics on this young Chenin Blanc show more lifted pear drop-style esters alongside exotic notes of honey drizzled peaches, lychees, guava and green apples. Lurking beneath the rock candy nuances are dusty, Granitic mineral hints, touches of wet straw and white peaches. The palate is intense and fresh yet moderately phenolic with the 2024 telltale effortless crystalline intensity that so many white wines possess. Super lithe and sleek textured, medium bodied and beautifully supple and fine, this is another very classy Chenin Blanc that thrives more on its ethereal qualities than mere brute force power. Earlier drinking than either the 2021s or 2023s, this delicious example is good to savour now and over the next 8 to 10 years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kaapzicht Kliprug Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.
The Kliprug vineyard was planted in 1982 on a stony ridge of decomposed granite in the Bottelary Hills, where tough, dryland conditions shape the character of the wine. These old bush vines, farmed sustainably and without irrigation, produce small, flavour-packed berries that yield naturally low crops of exceptional concentration. The soils are shallow and rocky, forcing the roots deep in search of moisture, while cooling afternoon breezes from False Bay preserve the grapes’ freshness and balance.
The aromatics on this Old Vine Chenin Blanc show lovely intensity and focus and are truly evocative of the sun-baked Cape winelands – complex and layered with pithy yellow citrus, green apples, honey and white peach fruits over an earthy, wet Granite minerality that mingles with herby fynbos nuances. In the mouth, this youthful white is vibrant and zippy with a well-defined acidity, a crystalline apricot fruit purity and an elegant, effortless intensity. The wine’s light, airy, weightless characters on the palate are juxtaposed with its flavour intensity from the Old Vine fruit. This is a wonderful introduction to archetypal Stellenbosch Old Vine Chenin Blanc. Drink now to 2032+.
I have been a big follower and fan of the Capensis Chardonnay wines since their maiden release in 2013. South African winemaker Graham Weerts, based in the USA for many years but now firmly back in Stellenbosch, is of course the driving force behind the label with undoubtedly a firm hand of support for many years from Jackson Family Wines US owner Barbara Banke.
On one of my last trips to the Cape winelands in 2025, I finally managed to catch up with Graham at the Capensis winery in the hills above Stellenbosch where we toured the vineyards around the tasting room and then shared a lovely sunset braai and several bottles of delicious Capensis Chardonnay – always one of my favourites in South Africa.
Myself, Michelin Star chef Roger Jones and Graham Weerts in the Capensis vineyards.The incredible views of Stellenbosch from the Capensis vineyards.
Other than a delicious bottle of Graham Beck Yin 2016 Cap Classique (the sibling of the Yang 2016 special release pair), we also enjoyed an impressively youthful bottle of the Capensis Chardonnay 2013 (94/100 GSMW) that somehow seemed to have shed much of its previous new oak character to reveal a more detailed citrus fruit purity. This 2013 was tasted alongside a current release Capensis Chardonnay 2021 (96/100 GSMW) that was taut, vibrant and coiled like a wound spring as you would expect from this excellent cooler vintage. Then we were treated to a real surprise – the first Stellenbosch red produced at Capensis from Helderberg fruit – Graham’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2023.
Capensis Silene Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
This first red release from Capensis is a classy and classical Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon from the Helderberg that is varietally labelled but also draws on the salt and pepper complexity of a 9% Merlot and a 6% Cabernet Franc addition that was matured in French oak, 30% new, for 14 months before bottling. Picked before the rains, this 2023 displays perfumed aromatics of violets and rose petals, sweet cedar and smoky Christmas spices, lead pencils, red and black berry fruits, and subtle notes of graphite and oystershell. In the mouth there is a deliciously fresh acidity that supports lush, supple sweet tannins and a medium weighted, concentrated black berry fruited finish that slowly recedes to reveal a stony, classically dry mineral finish. An excellent debut effort. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.
