As prices for Burgundy’s marquee names climb beyond the reach of all but the deepest pocketed cellars, discerning collectors are looking beyond the overtly famous labels for estates that deliver the same terroir pedigree without the accompanying pricing frenzy. Few fit that brief better than Domaine Bruno Desaunay-Bissey’s wines. Based in Flagey-Echézeaux, the heart of Burgundy’s Grand Cru country, Bruno built his domaine through a patchwork of purchases and family successions, most notably with his father-in-law, Daniel Bissey. The result is a compact estate of around six hectares spread across five communes of the Côte de Nuits – a domaine that is small, personal and entirely hands-on.

The portfolio reads like a roll call of the appellations collectors prize, including Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveaux, Vosne-Romanée Premiers Crus such as Les Beaux-Monts and Les Rouges, Vieilles Vignes Echezeaux Grand Cru, and at the summit, a Vieilles Vignes Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru. Several parcels are old vines rooted in clay-limestone soils, farmed without pesticides or herbicides since 2007. So why does the estate remain a bit of a secret? Predictably, the production is tiny, there is no marketing machine, and Bruno, in his lifetime, never courted the spotlight. His wines are now discovered by word of mouth, passed between growers, merchants and devoted Burgundy lovers who make their pilgrimage to their cellar door.
For the collector, within that relative obscurity lies the true opportunity. These are wines from some of the world’s most coveted vineyard sites, made with incredible care that are still very reasonably priced, sitting well below their more fashionable neighbours. In a market increasingly defined by hype, Desaunay-Bissey offers true authenticity and, for the time being, amazing relative value, quality considered.
I recently got the opportunity to revisit two of Desaunay-Bissey’s great cuvées, one Premier Cru and one Grand Cru. Both exceptional, youthful and utterly spellbinding Burgundies.
Domaine Bruno Desaunay-Bissey Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts 2018, 14% Abv.
Sourced from an 80+ year old vines, this wine shows pure class and allows its pedigree to shine through in this serious expression of Vosne Romanee. One of the most respected 1er Cru vineyards delivers quality in bucket loads in 2018 with even more perfume, lift and intricacy than the village wine. The aromatics display a splendid array of crunchy wild strawberries, red and black cherries, subtle dried herbs and alluring Vosne spice. The palate reveals incredible depth and breath with piercing mouth-watering concentration, fine-grained tannins like polished marble and a tart, bright maritime salinity on the finish that retains a seductive kiss of pink rock candy. This is a very serious effort indeed. An utterly seductive Pinot. Drink now to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Bruno Desaunay-Bissey Echezeaux Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2014, 13.5% Abv.
Made from old vines planted in 1902, 1940 and 1945, this Grand Cru red shows a classically broody demeanour to begin with before opening up to reveal a complex array of red and black berry fruits on the nose, seamlessly integrated oak and a subtle freshly tilled earth savoury note. Broad, suave and texturally plush, this is a wine to savour, to lose yourself in and to allow the more intricate finery to reveal itself slowly over time in the glass. The texture is dense, compact, almost creamy, with fine maturing tannins, layers of bright blueberry, cassis and Fraises des Bois notes that linger for an age on the finish. Grand Cru Burgundy is not just about more dialled up volume, it’s about intricacy and complexity of rhythm, more drum, more base and an altogether more melodic crescendo. Drink now to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The wines of Domaine Bruno Desaunay-Bissey are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew to request the current availability.
Andrew@musigny.wine















































































