Cracking open a bottle of 13-year-old white Burgundy these days is probably slightly less risky than it was a few years ago when white Burgundy was mired in its very own premature oxidation crisis. But what about an aged South African Chardonnay? Firstly, many (or even most) examples are not really made for long-term ageing but of course there are a handful of premium expressions from top producers such as Hamilton Russell Vineyards that can improve with plenty of bottle age. While their estate’s Chardonnay quality is exceptional every year, some cooler, more structured vintages are certainly capable of ageing incredibly well. I recently pulled a bottle of their 2013 from my cellar and was pleasantly surprised by its youthful vigour. This was a wine critically appraised on release by numerous commentators at 93-94/100 points.
2013 was a standout vintage in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley with rich, generous, sumptuous wines displaying great depth of fruit and structure. The reds in particular benefited from the 2013 harvest conditions, with dark, complex fruit at moderate alcohol levels. A cold winter was followed by a cold wet spring almost up to flowering, while cool strong Southeasters with some rain during flowering and berry-set contributed to very low yields. In general bud-break was later than usual and for the first time Sauvignon Blanc ripened before Pinot noir and Chardonnay. A drier, breezy December and January contributed to healthy disease-free ripening. The average of the maximum temperatures for December, January, February and March was, at 25.33 Centigrade, a touch higher than the long-term average of 25 Centigrade – warmer than 2012, 2010 and 2009, but cooler than 2011.
As far as I remember, this 2013 would have been vinified by Hannes Storm, Hamilton Russell’s winemaker until the 2014 vintage, after which current winemaker, Emul Ross, took over.
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2013, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
This 2013 Chardonnay displays a stunning old yellow gold colour in the glass. Crisp, clear and bright, the aromatics are exotic and complex but incredibly measured and pinpoint pointing to the clarity and precision of a cooler vintage. Open and fragrant from first pour, the nose boasts honied herbal tea and lemon cordial, dried mango, salted dried pistachios, toasted almond flakes and hints of salted creme caramel. On the palate the oak is seamlessly integrated, adding a delicately pithy note of phenolic grip along side taut crystallised citrus peel, candied fig, crisp linear acids and a long saline oyster shell finish. A superb expression from a cooler Hemel-en-Aarde Valley vintage. Drink now and over the next 5+ years.
It has become practically a tradition for Caroline Martin from Creation Wines to travel to London to present the new vintages of their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to the who’s who of the UK wine media circle with husband JC Martin normally on a Zoom video link from the cellar in Cape Town. However, this year we were in for a treat with both JC and Caroline in attendance to present the new releases along side a spectacular vertical of back vintages.
Originally hailing from Switzerland, JC Martin together with his South African wife Carolyn (nee Finlayson), bought their original 22 hectares of virgin land in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge and completed their impressive cellar in time for their 2007 harvest. Their Walker Bay estate now encompasses 50-plus hectares of vines planted with over 11 cultivars, but focusing primarily on premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
JC Martin and Caroline Martin in London.
I have spoken for many years about the quality glass ceilings in the South African wine industry. For a long time, Chardonnay tried but just couldn’t quite break through until possibly five years ago, when the industry saw some incredible new releases find a new lease of energy to raise the quality stakes and break the glass ceiling that had been in place for so long. Among these producers were Richard Kershaw, Leeu Passant, Paul Cluver, Uva Mira, Hamilton Russell, Newton Johnson and of course Creation Wines. While Pinot Noir still has a little more work to do to make examples comparable to the very best of Burgundy, I feel confidant, based on my tasting of Creation’s new releases that big fireworks are just around the corner and over the horizon.
Creation Chardonnay Vertical:
The Creation Chardonnay grapes are whole bunch pressed, inoculated with neutral Champagne yeasts to emphasise purity and encourage a quick and efficient fermentation process. The Glenn’s Chardonnay grapes come from the same vineyard as the Art of Chardonnay but use only wild yeasts for the fermentation process which also helps with a little more natural struck flint reduction character in the finished wine. The Art of Chardonnay cuvee is normally a combination of wild and inoculated yeast portions that are ultimately blended together before bottling.
Creation Reserve Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
Bronzed golden colour, the aromatics speaks with an exotic accent, full of plush ripe yellow fruits, passionfruit, pineapple, and hints of dried guava roll. The entry is crystalline and juicy and vibrant with an expressive natural acidity, tangy orange peel, passionfruit and naartjie fruit concentration. An impressive vintage with heart stopping fruit intensity, a delicate minerality and fabulous length. Drink now to 2034.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
Pale gold in the glass, the Glenn’s Chardonnay reveals flinty, slightly reductive aromatics with hints of limestone, lemon and lime peel, dried herbs, wet straw, tinned pineapple and savoury leesy biscuit nuances. Strikingly taut and linear on the palate, the acids are tangy and mouthwatering showing a finely balanced texture and concentration but certainly not lacking any generosity. A steely fresh finish leaves you ready for another sip. A really beautiful expression of premium cool climate Chardonnay.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
A beautifully precise expression with aromatics brimming with sweet passionfruit, pineapple, dried herbs, thyme, and tangerine peel. The focus and precision is impressive with a tangy bright acidity, a piercing mouthwatering yellow citrus fruit concentration with a delightful spicy, vanilla pod and granadilla finish. A wine with such presence and pedigree.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
The aromatics show a pronounced flinty reductive note over wet stone minerality, crushed limestone, white citrus pith and green pear. There is a real energy and vivacity magnified by a piercing salinity that raises the perception of the tart acidity and linearity. There is a fine mid palate concentration and polished phenolics, making for a taut, focused tightly wound wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2018, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
Hints of reduction with subtle tertiary notes revealing fennel root, lanolin, curry leaf, vanilla pod and wet straw bales. There are layers of waxy citrus, pineapple, waxy green apples, and pear with savoury notes, a crystalline freshness, acid linearity, and a very fine tension that’s holding the palate together very nicely.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Pinot Noir Vertical:
A very natural expression with only the whole bunch portion manipulated during extraction. 100% Whole bunch used in 2021, 60% in 2022 and 50% in 2023. The higher the portion, the lower the floral aromatics on the wines tend to be according to JC.
Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
A young embryonic Pinot Noir packed full of cinnamon and clove aromatics over bramble berry, wild strawberry and smoky graphite spice. The palate shows pithy rasping tension, salinity and limestone minerality, phenolic spice, dried herbs, over red cranberry, red currant and red apple spice. A wine looking forward to 10+ years of age ability.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
The find expression showing delicious spicy bramble berry aromatics with wild strawberry, damson plum over savoury cured meat nuances. The whole bunch portion is evident, flaunting its spicy sapidity but well balanced by a red and black berry fruit length. Ready to go now… or drink over the next 5 to 8 years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
With a 100% wholebunch used, the spicy sapidity is surprisingly well integrated already with red and black berry fruits, earthy red currant and spicy fig and quince nuances. The palate shows spice and tension, a mineral texture and fine grained mineral stony tannins delicately balanced by savoury red and black fruits and a real whole bunch complexity.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Flight 1:
Creation Ridge Chardonnay 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge
The Ridge used to be called the Reserve range. Fermented with DV10 Champagne yeasts, using 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel adding elegance and texture with no batonnage. The aromatics are beautifully floral and perfumed with white blossom, honeysuckle and lemon verbena. Texturally very fine and creamy but with zippy nervy underlying acids with bright lemon and lime peel notes and a very gentle fleshy finish with a distinct vein of stony minerality raising its head. Drink now to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge
Oldest block that is over 22 years old now. Aiming for a very steady, consistent stylistic steer, the 2024 Art show slightly more restraint and classism, white blossom, crushed granite, sweet green baking herbs and lemon herbal tea nuances. The palate is gently smoky and mineral with subtle savoury leesy hints over green apple, lemon and yellow grapefruit concentration before a real kick of wet stone minerality on the dry, rasping fresh finish. Beautiful tension and restraint that will slowly unfurl over the coming years. Drink 2026 to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge
Sourced from the same block of grapes as the Art of Chardonnay, this wild ferment expression really shines in a cool, taut mineral driven vintage like 2024. The aromatics show a little more honied richness with honeysuckle, lemon blossom, oatmeal and lemon biscuit notes that combined with green herbs and a subtle bay leaf spice. The wine shows a beautiful texture, full and fleshy mouthfeel with crisp sour mouthwatering acids and a creamy, honied savoury finish. A wine with superb complexity. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
Pale gold in the glass, the Glenn’s Chardonnay reveals flinty, slightly reductive aromatics with hints of limestone, lemon and lime peel, dried herbs, wet straw, tinned pineapple and savoury leesy biscuit nuances. Strikingly taut and linear on the palate, the acids are tangy and mouthwatering showing a finely balanced texture and concentration but certainly not lacking any generosity. A steely fresh finish leaves you ready for another sip. A really beautiful expression of premium cool climate Chardonnay.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
Shows a very complex nose with earthy, savoury slightly wild aromatics with hints of root veg, dried herbs, fennel root, waxy lemon, grapefruit marmalade. The palate shows impressive depth and breadth, an incredibly creamy gently oaky salted caramel length that never overwhelms but simply lingers on the palate. Still an inner tension in the wine but drinking beautifully now.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
The aromatics show complex savoury leesy notes that melt away into white blossom, waxy lemon peel, sweet herbs green apples and subtle stony mineral nuances. The palate is sleek, dense and fleshy, the acids fresh but incredibly well integrated, balanced with the citrus fruit flesh and concentration. Powerful, harmonious but intense and tangy. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2020, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.
A beautifully elegant wine that is showing incredibly well, as it should as the Platter White Wine of the Year. Gently smoky and savoury and complex with crushed gravel and smoky reductive flinty notes. The palate is raspingly mineral and stony, underpinned by pithy lemon and grapefruit nuances with a restrained, herby, dry finish. Super taut, compact and seriously youthful. Astonishing wine. Drink now to 2035.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Flight 2: Pinot Noirs
Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13% Abv.
From a Southeast facing block, 50-60% whole bunches are used on the Art with a gentle wetting of the cap once or twice a day. Malolactic in barrel, 30% new, released after approximately 2 years. The aromatics shows incredible intensity with piercing aromatics of black cherry, black berry and wild strawberry. The fruit berry purity follows to the palate but is tempered by a fresh, pure mineral palate with real precision and stony length. Superb fine grained texture, harmonious texture with a weightless concentration on the finish. Drink now to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Emma’s Pinot Noir 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13% Abv.
A selection from a different block more West facing than the Art of Pinot Noir, that’s also more tannic so only 30% whole bunch is used. The aromatics are luxurious and deep, slightly less exotic and perfumed than the Art, which JC puts down to the lower whole bunch portion. The palate shows creamy chalky depth, black cherry, black raspberry, salty kelp notes and a deep, tense, broody power packed depth laced with incredibly stony minerality on the finish. Simply stunning and super serious expression. Drink 2026 to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Creation Wines are imported into the UK by Hallgarten Wines.
Tasting the new releases of Restless River’s Estate wines, it is fascinating to witness the slow and calculated evolution of this beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde winery. The exploratory, experimental “pushing the boundaries” mood music has shifted subtly to a far more confident, serious, assured market positioning. Correspondingly, in the wider market place, both locally in South Africa and internationally, Restless River has entered a new phase of consolidating the quality and reputational branding Craig and Anne have worked so hard and conscientiously to establish since their maiden releases over a decade ago.
The new Restless River Estate releases.
Part of this new phase of range consolidation has seen a change of distribution in the UK market as well as the launch of two “entry level” Restless River Estate cuvées to help introduce a new segment of wine consumers to the vinous wonders of the larger Restless River brand ethos.
Craig Wessels pouring his new releases in London in May 2025.
In true Craig Wessels style, no corners have been cut with these two new wines, both of which continue the authentic style and quality you’d expect from a premium estate and should rank among the most exciting new releases for consumers from the Cape Winelands in recent years. Watch out for a third new “entry level” red wine, a younger vine Cabernet Sauvignon that will be hitting the market later in the year.
Restless River Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
It’s incredibly difficult to engage completely unbiasedly in a first tasting of this new ‘young vine’ Restless River estate wine when I am such a huge fan and admirer of everything Craig Wessels has achieved on his picturesque estate in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. But looking strictly at the wine in the glass, it possesses a twinkling crystalline canary yellow gold hue with aromatics that are delicately expressive but sophisticatedly restrained all at once, with a bouquet of white blossoms, granitic mineral spice, lemons in brine, pithy white citrus, and subtle hints of dry hay. The palate is wonderfully taut, crisp, and vibrantly fresh but let’s its serious demeanour slip a little with overt, showy pockets of sweet lemon and lime pastille fruit concentration, sweet baking herbs, and delicate vanilla pod spices. The acids are deliciously tangy and the textural structure fresh, vibrant, and accessible suggesting that this 2023 is certainly ready to drink now ahead of its more serious sibling, the Ava Marie Chardonnay. I love what Craig has managed to create with this new, more accessible style without losing any of the steely essence and intensity that makes Restless River’s Chardonnays so special. Drink now to 2035.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Pinot Noir 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
The second new wine in the Restless River range alongside the estate Chardonnay is this exciting young vine Pinot Noir, created as a support wine to the denser and more structured Le Luc Pinot Noir. Once again, Craig has nailed the style offering an accessible, bright juicy Pinot Noir with perfumed aromatics of violets, strawberry compote, blood oranges and red cherry fruits that intermingle with hints of polished mahogany, pomegranates, and sweet Christmas spices. On the palate, the wine is sleek, supple, and silky smooth showing a beautifully balanced mid-weight fruit concentration of red currants, strawberries, and cherries together with bright tangy acids and fine grained, savoury mineral tannins, all assembled in a pleasingly sophisticated manner. This is a delightfully accessible Pinot Noir packed full of energy and mouthwatering freshness that’s ready to drink on release.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14.1% Abv.
Craig and Anne Wessels finally release their highly anticipated 2021 Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon, named as such after their two oldest blocks planted in 1998 in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The 2021 was aged in 225 litre French oak barriques for 24 months, 25% of which were new. The aromatics are deep, dark and slightly broody on opening, before offering up succulent cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon notes of violets and white blossoms, freshly cut sandalwood, sappy cedar spice, macerated red cherries and crème de cassis before delicate hints of black olive tapenade, graphite, bay leaf and black currant herbal tea. The palate is wonderfully sensual and silky, texturally fine boned yet vibrant with an underlying mouthwatering tangy acidity that’s masterfully integrated with silky powdery tannins. With more time in the glass, the tart red cherry notes become more accentuated, mingling with savoury herbal notes, cola, and blueberry rock candy nuances. This is a wonderfully accomplished expression of elegant Cabernet Sauvignon that wears its own unique cool climate Hemel-en-Aarde Valley character with pride. Allow this excellent 2021 vintage to integrate and flesh out further before drinking from 2026 to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Le Luc Pinot Noir 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
Pinot Noir is a challenging grape to grow in South Africa, but it has undoubtedly found a home from home in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley of Walker Bay. The Le Luc Single Vineyard Pinot Noir from Craig Wessels seems to get better and better every year and with the 2022 vitnage, you see an accomplished wine made from vines planted in 2013. The wine was fermented using 10% whole bunches before being matured in 228 litre barrels for 12 months, 30% of which were new. The aromatics are loaded with toasty, bruleed notes of chargrilled meats, bramble berries, macerated ripe strawberries and earthy red currants before notes of rose petals, leafy black currant, porcini mushrooms and sweet Asian spices. The palate is spicy and sleek, tight knit, but silky and very polished with a medium bodied weight of earthy, brambly fruits and plums in liquor followed by a long, peppery red and black berry fruited finish that’s caressed by sweet soft tannins and bright tangy acids. Enjoy this classy expression on release and over its first 5 to 8 years in bottle.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 12.78% Abv.
While Craig Wessels has overseen a multitude of new plantings around his winery, the Chardonnay grapes for the Ava Marie are among the oldest in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley having been planted in 1999. The resulting wine was matured for 12 months in mostly 500 litre barrels of which 10% were new, together with portions aged in terracotta amphorae and stainless-steel barrels. Pale gold and star bright in the glass, this 2022 has a youthfully alluring aromatics showing citrus blossom, white flowers, lemon oil, and tangerine peel as well as lemon biscuits, oatmeal, and delicate savoury, leesy nuances. There is a hint of smoky struck flint reduction but perhaps far less than on some previous vintages at this same youthful stage. On the palate the precision is enhanced by a notable purity and crystallinity and a linear laser sharp texture, with layers of lemon citrus, yellow grapefruit pith, toffee apples and a vanilla pod dusting. The acidity is vibrant and intense but also beautifully integrated with the medium bodied fruit concentration. This is undoubtedly a very complete wine with a seamless textural demeanour, a majestic balance, and a long pithy wet granite minerality on the polished finish. Drink this beauty on release and over the next 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Restless River wines are imported into the UK market by Liberty Wines.
The Cape is blessed with a plethora of dynamic historical wineries. But unlike many wine regions around the world, there is a constant evolution of wines, wineries and winemaking that keep the South African wine scene exciting, cutting edge and vital. The Thamnus winery in the Overberg Region is just one such new up and coming wine farm. Founded in 2019, the winery’s first vintages were produced from the 2020 harvest using Chardonnay, many from the CY95, CY76, CY96 clones. Traditionally, winemaker P.J.Geyer makes two different styles from each clone which are then evaluated and potentially blended.
Thamnus cultivate 10 tons of fruit for themselves and currently bottle only circa five tons of this fruit. The estate’s total production is currently 90 tons of which they sell off 60 tons of fruit and keep a mere 30 tons, vinifying 10 tons, keeping 5 tons and selling off 5 tons in bulk wine. Approximately 75% of the vineyards are 10 years old and 25% were planted in 2015.
Thamnus Chardonnay 2021, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
Aged in new, second fill and 4th fill French oak barrels. The 2021 is surprisingly rich, creamy and leesy, super concentrated, almost unctuous with a big piercing lemon and lime depth, biscuit, grapefruit preserve, with a generous lick of vanilla pod and savoury oak spice. A very impressive expression from a great vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thamnus Chardonnay 2022, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
Aged in a mix of old and new French oak with fruit from a warmer year. The 2022 is more reserved and mineral, classical and restrained, showing hints of spicy lemon, white pepper, pithy lime peel and yellow grapefruit. Incredibly sleek and refined, mineral laden, pure and compact. Currently showing lovely youthful wound spring tension but also great cellaring potential. Ironically, I’d probably pick this wine as a 2021 if tasted blind.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The rugged Overberg Region.
Thamnus Chardonnay 2023, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
Aged in 1st, 2nd,3rd and 4th fill French oak barrels with the fruit coming from a wetter year in the Overberg. This 2023 vintage is embryonically youthful and vibrant with more opulent high tone fruit notes of fresh green honeydew melon, green apple, white pear, and a stony mineral limestone complexity. The palate reveals a sleek, harmonious elegance together with a glycerol fleshy elegance and a long, focused, spicy finish. This wine should evolve beautifully and possibly merit an even higher score in the future.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Winemaker P.J. Geyer.
Thamnus Pinot Noir 2021, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
The 2021 Pinot Noir displays a classic earthy, brambly, red and black berry fruited aromatics with hints of cranberry, crunchy wild strawberry before a smoky, burnt wood ember nuance. There is a classical sapidity evident on the entry with a chalky, stony, stalky spice complexity melting into a very sleek, polished tannin texture enlivened by crisp linear acids. A fine representation from a cooler, fresher, more linear vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thamnus Pinot Noir 2022, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
The 2022 Pinot Noir is at first quite smoky and stony with hints of graphite, struck match and charcoal embers over sour red plum, black berry, curry leaf and bruised ripe strawberry fruits. There is a fullness and ripeness on the palate with a feel of density and extract from the sunshine while remaining stony, flinty and attractively smoky. While there are suggestions of exoticism on the palate, the wine remains unwaveringly elegant, light touch and beautifully focused. Should be at its best in 3 to 5 years time.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Thamnus Wines are currently seeking representation in the UK.
The Wessels family have been living on the 20 ha Klein Hemel farm in the Upper-Hemel-en-Aarde for 20 years now, making Restless River wines. Named after the nearby Onrus River (Afrikaans for Restless) that has flooded three times this year and lived up to its name, they’ve been making single-site Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and, interestingly, Cabernet Sauvignon in an area known almost exclusively for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Having inherited the Cabernet vines from the previous owner, they are officially the oldest surviving vines in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde, and thus something Craig Wessels feels chose him rather than vice versa.
I recently caught up with Craig in London to taste through his new releases, including the fabulous Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 and his now iconic Ava Marie Chardonnay 2021. Restless River is now firmly established as one of the most sought-after premium wineries in South Africa and the wines are definitely worth seeking out.
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2021, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 12.6% Abv.
Another exceptional expression of cool climate Chardonnay from the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, which was aged in 500 litre Burgundy barrels, 90% third fill with a 10% new oak portion, together with 10% of the wine aged in 450 litre terracotta amphorae from Florence, Italy. The wine was aged for 12 months in barrel, sur lie, and then for a further three months in stainless steel tanks, followed by 18 months in bottle. On opening, the wine displays top notes of dusty chalk and limestone, honeysuckle, lemon biscuits, freshly baked brioche, lime peel and subtle savoury leesy nuances. Steely and taut, the palate is wonderfully cool, linear and tightly wound while simultaneously offering up an exotic, creamy generosity with a tightly packed core of fresh citrus, waxy lemon rind, and Seville oranges before slightly flinty, reductive mineral hints. A beautifully poised, crystalline expression of Chardonnay with great purity, depth of flavour and classicism. Drink from 2024 to 2034+.
(96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14% Abv.
Craig Wessels’s Cabernet Sauvignon has now become one of the most sought-after expressions produced in the Cape, despite coming from a region that was not supposed to be suitable for this cultivar. Yet year on year, Craig produces a magical red wine and the 2020 is no exception, aged for 22 months in 20% new 225-litre barrels, the wine is brimming with perfumed aromatics of violets, rose petals, incense, crushed black currants, tilled earth, cocoa, black tea, and melted milk chocolate. Fabulously pure and precise, there is an ethereal quality to the wine that really shines on the palate with a layered complexity of saline crème de cassis, oyster shell, mulberries, black cherry and sweet tobacco nuances. Such vibrancy, freshness and weightless intensity, this really is a superb mouthwatering example with sublime purity and depth, making this another masterful and unique expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from Restless River. Drink now and over the next 15+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Restless River wines are available to UK trade from exclusive importer Swig Wines and to consumers from specialist South African merchant Museum Wines.
Having just celebrated international Pinot Noir day recently, it seems an appropriate time to recognise the truly excellent quality of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in the Walker Bay region. One of the most respected quality focused producers in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge ward is of course the Creation winery.
Originally from Switzerland, JC Martin together with his South African wife Carolyn (nee Finlayson), bought their original 22 hectares of virgin land in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge and completed their cellar in time for their 2007 harvest. Their Walker Bay estate now encompasses 50-plus hectares planted with over 11 varieties, but focusing mainly on premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Carolyn Martin was recently in London with Cape Wine Master Winnie Bowman to present a wonderful multi-flight tasting of Creation’s top cuvees of Art of Chardonnay, Art of Pinot Noir, Glenn’s Chardonnay and Emma’s Pinot Noir, the latter two wines made by their respective son and daughter. The tasting was presented at wine mecca 67 Pall Mall in London with JC joining by Zoom from South Africa.
Flight 1
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2020
Bright and crystalline, there is fabulous lift here with expressive aromatics of white citrus, limestone minerality, lemon and lime peel, with subtle leesy biscuit notes and a well integrated vanilla pod spice over delicately reductive struck flint nuances. The palate is crisp and taut with a brilliance of citrus fruit purity draped over a structured mineral frame. Subtle, incredibly Old World and Burgundian in style but ultimately defined by its freshness and restraint.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2021
A rich, opulent, expressive vintage that shows extra layers of fruit intensity, leesy complexity and oak spice notes. There are wonderful hints of biscuit and grapefruit preserve, oak spice and sweet lemon peel. This is a textural masterpiece with supreme balance and finesse, with creamy sleek pithy citrus and green apple layers. Very classy but certainly more extroverted and showier than the 2020 vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tasting with Carolyn Martin at 67 Pall Mall in London.
Creation Art of Chardonnay 2022
Deliciously youthful and exotic nose of green apple purée, honeydew melon, yeasty beer and hop nuances over tangy Granny Smit apple and a crystallised lime peel complexity. Embryonic brilliance but shows all the class you’d hope for from a new Creation release.
(Wine Safari Score: 95-96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Flight 2
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2020
Very similar to the Art of Creation 2020 but with a subtle, undefinable extra exoticism undoubtedly from the 100% wild yeast fermentation. The aromatics are wild and leesy with nutty savoury notes of salted pistachios and grilled almonds. The palate is impressively full and mouthfilling with a soft creamy and an notably fleshy core of lemon citrus and lemon biscuit, finishing with a long, stony, gravelly liquid mineral finish. Really quite a thrilling wine indeed.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2021
The 2021 shows an aromatic breadth and flamboyance underpinned by sweet white and yellow citrus fruits, lemon pastille, lime cordial and subtle leesy, nutty undertones. The texture is full and fleshy, streamlined, silky and incredibly polished with tangy acids adding zip and energy to the long, concentrated, well defined finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2022
A very animated, classy expression that layers pithy stone fruits over lemon cordial, wet slate, green apple and fragrant yellow pear. Texturally very fine, focused and sleek with a silky, creamy palate and a long, savoury, tangy fresh finish. A really beautiful wine that will surely improve with further time in bottle.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Flight 3
Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2021, 13.1% Abv.
80% whole bunches used. Delicately spicy chalky nose with a lifted perfume of violets, rose petals and a definite sapidity. The intensity is impressive, the mouth-watering complexity really quite profound. Built around a fine acid frame, this is really something special, drinking well now but showing all the classicism, precision and elegance for potential further development. Mineral, sappy, and very seductive.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2022, 13.6% Abv.
A little sweeter and fleshier, the aromatics are opulent and forthright, showing red plum, sour red cherry, tart strawberry and a subtle chalky sapidity. Texturally very fine, silky, soft and harmonious with a generosity that never over steps the boundaries of ripeness of restraint. This is a fabulous new Pinot Noir coming down the tracks. A release not to be missed.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Flight 4
Creation Emma’s Pinot Noir 2022
Opulent and fresh fruited on the nose showing red currant, raspberry, pomegranate and subtle notes of blood orange. There is a real purpose, drive and intensity, but also a classicism and an inner beauty to the Emma cuvées, and this 2022 promises a fine medium term age worthiness.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Emma’s Pinot Noir 2019, 13.5% Abv.
Quite dark and broody on the nose, there is an earthy, brambly, stewed strawberry depth before notes of cranberry, pomegranate, sour red plum and intense chalky mineral nuances reveal themself. Possesses a really beautiful texture, being classical and poised, making for a serious expression of Pinot Noir.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Creation Emma’s Pinot Noir 2017
A dark fruited expression with incredibly Burgundian styled aromatics of bramble berries, wild strawberry and hints of forest floor. Sleek, vibrant and still incredibly youthful, the vibrancy, minerality, and chalky black fruits really impress. Ready to go now but certainly no rush.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Creation wines are imported into the UK by Bibendum Wines.
There are a lot of very decent South African Chardonnays on the market, but only a few exceptional examples as many producers do seem to be using either fruit from areas that are perhaps just a little bit too warm, are using grapes from vines planted on the wrong terroir, or perhaps some winemakers have simply hit a bit of a glass ceiling of knowledge when it comes to pushing the boundaries of quality and complexity for this generic grape that is so easily shaped by its terroir but also the hand of the winemaker. In reality, I suspect most of the stumbling blocks in trying to reach ever higher quality relate to vineyard terroir, micro-climates and how much insight a specific winemaker intrinsically has into the Chardonnay grape itself within a Burgundian or a New World style context.
When I was contacted by the owners of Draaibroek Wines, a new Hemel-en-Aarde brand a couple of years ago, and asked if I would be prepared to review their maiden release 2019, I have to say I did not expect much beyond the ordinary. However, as the provenance of the grapes became clearer and who their consulting winemaker was, it is fair to say my interest was substantially peaked. The maiden Chardonnay was made by accomplished winemaker Stephanie Wiid of Thistle and Weed fame, from grapes sourced in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge from the La Vierge farm. My full 92-point review from August 2020 can be read here… https://gregsherwoodmw.com/2020/08/19/an-exciting-new-release-from-the-hemel-en-aarde-ridge-tasting-the-onskuld-chardonnay-2019/
But this is a winery project in a hurry and not content to dabble with mediocrity as witnessed by the exceptional quality of only their second release. The 2020 was rated an impressive 95/100 points on the Fine Wine Safari and only narrowly missed out on 5 Stars (95/100 points and higher) in the South African Platter’s blind tastings. It was indeed a very accomplished wine that augured well for future releases. I then tasted the third vintage 2021 release at Cape Wine 2022 in October last year but did not manage to write a substantive tasting review until retasting this wine again recently. In the interim period, the wine has scored an impressive 96/100 points blind and been awarded 5 Stars in the annual Platter’s Guide.
Sourced from the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge ward in the Walker Bay wine region, the grapes are grown in a single 11-year-old North – East facing trellised vineyard at around 300 metres altitude consisting of clay-rich Bokkeveld shale soils. Made with a philosophy of minimalist intervention, the grapes were hand harvested on the 5th of March and whole bunch pressed before being fermented in French oak barrels, 30% of which were new, and matured on its fine lees for 11 months. A barrel selection was then made prior to blending and bottling.
Draaiboek Wines Onskuld Chardonnay 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde, 13.5% Abv.
2.30 g/l RS | 6.1g/l TA | 3.28 pH
The 2021 Chardonnay from Draaiboek Wines is certainly an impressive creation. Immediately lifted and expressive on the nose, the aromatics boast complex layers that slowly unfurl to reveal pristine notes of white flowers, freshly baked baguette, spicy green apples, white citrus, waxy lemon rind and subtle hints of nutmeg. The palate is beautifully weighted with a medium bodied palate breadth and tangy acids that show deliciously racy, saline notes of Seville oranges, tangerine, granny smith apples and warm apple strudel pastries. Such a mouth-watering, joyful expression from one of the best white wine vintages in South Africa in the past decade. Drink this now or cellar comfortably for added complexity for 3 to 8+ years. (3,670 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The wines are available in South Africa from www.draaiboek.wine and in the UK from Ben Prior at Vino SA www.vinosa.wine at circa £32pb.
Swig Wines represents one of the most exciting and dynamic set of international wine producers in the UK and recently they held their portfolio tasting in Soho, London. Of course, the South African contingent was well represented as usual with the likes of Duncan Savage, Alex Starey from Keermont and Pieter Walser from Blank Bottle. But there was one glaring omission, Craig Wessels from Restless River.
Unfortunately, Craig experienced a freak accident surfing and had broken his leg and was unable to travel with the SA brat pack and share a warm sleeping bag with Duncan Savage! 😉 So I was extra excited to hook up with him at Cape Wine 2022 in early October for a proper tasting and a good catch up. But you can imagine my surprise and joy to be contacted by Craig only a short time afterwards asking to hook up again in London to taste his new releases one-to-one. Restless River’s new offerings always represent one of the most exciting and high-demand South African fine wine releases of the calendar year and so getting a proper run down from Craig himself was an invaluable experience for me.
Craig bought the Restless River estate with 7ha planted planted in 1998 (one hectare pulled out subsequently). Plantings are now already up to 21 hectares. Craig’s first vintages released were the 2012 for the Ava Marie Chardonnay and the 2008 for the Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon with his Wunderlust label representing an experimentational range allowing him to express his creative juices, producing one-off wines that are never usually repeated.
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2020, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
The 2020 vintage has a little more apparent acidity than the 2019, combining the fruit and salinity with the fresh acids. The 2020 was all produced in 500 litre barrels followed by blending and ageing in stainless for 3 to 4 months, settling and stabilising on its fine lees before bottling for better integration. The wine already shows lovely Lemon butter and leesy aromatic complexity with hints of white toast, lemon rind, white citrus, melted wax and a mellow kiss of salted caramel. The palate is bright and fresh but also shows a generous mid-palate concentration and textural fleshy character. This is a fabulous terroir driven wine that is harvested over the period of a month allowing for individual parcels to be brought in to the winery to be blended into the perfect assemblage. Incredible balance and mid-palate weight make this a tantalising offering. Simply benchmark in terms of Chardonnay in South Africa. Very similar to the 2019 in many aspects with the same ‘inner profile’ but with a tad more acidity and minerality in the 2020. A true classic that is worthy of a place in any collector’s cellar … if you can get an allocation! (10,901 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Main Road Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14.01% Abv.
Made from 23 year old vines, yielding 2 -2.5 tons per hectare. The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon had a very long hang time which gave it super smooth, ripe, dry fine grained tannins on the palate. Harvested from 10th March to 7th May, an almost unheard of length of picking spread for two small 1.59 hectare and 0.71 hectare vineyards, which are vinified separately by parcel within each vineyard, with each parcel matched to a different cooperage. Aged for 23 months in barrel and then almost another 24 months in bottle, the wine certainly hits the ground running in a most spectacular fashion. Such pristine purity and precision with beautiful purple and black berry fruits, creme de cassis, blue berry and an essence of watermelon making for a deliciously exotic, hedonistic wine. So incredibly lithe and fresh in the glass with tangy acids, a sleek but supremely intense concentration of blue and black berry fruits and a pronounced maritime salinity on the finish. But it’s undoubtedly the ‘wagyu-styled’ fine tannins that are massaged to perfection with an imperceptible mineral grip and a sleek velvety texture thanks to the longer hang times. So incredibly delicious. Wow! (8,124 bottles produced.)
Cabernet Sauvignon is not supposed to be this successful in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in the Walker Bay region. But like innovators before him, think Tim Hamilton-Russell, Craig Wessels has never been one to settle for conformity or pre-set industry parameters of quality with his wine styles. The track record is now so firmly established for the Restless River Cabernet Sauvignon that Craig certainly has no problem selling out of allocations of this exceptional expression.
Many of the 2017 reds reached heights of quality not seen for many years (2015 aside), so expectations for 2018 and the last drought vintages were understandably very high. This is a premium priced wine (circa £55 to £59pb retail) which consumers expect to reach certain quality heights every vintage. Craig Wessels has done a sterling job with the 2018 and while the main release in South Africa was already at the beginning of 2022, the wine is only now being offered seriously in the UK. If you have not tried this stunner, treat yourself. It’s a fascinatingly individual expression of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Restless River Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14.5% Abv.
A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from two single vineyards, namely Main Road (1.59 hectares) and Dignity (0.71 hectares) in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley matured for 23 months in 225 litre barriques with approximately 25% new oak. Located five kilometres from the Atlantic Ocean in the heart of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir country, this exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon red continues to confound the sceptics. Coming from the last of the proper drought vintages, Craig Wessels has captured a wonderfully opulent and heady expression of Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of exoticism and ripeness while never losing a certain feeling of classicism and elegance. Tasted over two days, the wine shows an impressive depth of black and blue berry fruits with initial notes of plum skins, pressed violets, wet leaves, sapidity and sweet cedar spice followed by tilled earth, salty black liquorice and cherry kirsch liquor nuances. On the palate the fruit depth is broad and plush with a dark cherry and black currant intensity, hints of graphite and iodine and finishing with a fine-grained mineral tannin grip and yet more salty liquorice notes. The 2018 vintage seems more Napa Valley than Stellenbosch / SA in style but certainly a very well honed, opulent expression. Drink this now and over the next 10 to 15 years. (7,765 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Available to the trade in the UK from SWIG wines. (www.swig.co.uk)
In 2006, Johann Rupert initiated the search for all vineyards in South Africa older than 35 years. Traditionally the South African wine industry depended on tonnage, meaning that the meagre yields of older vines often resulted in them being removed and replanted. What was left in the ground represented some pretty spectacular pockets of old vines tended by people who either kept them out of sentiment or foresight. Old vine fruit often guarantees extra intensity, texture while conveying a real sense of place.
Preserving these old vineyards is now regarded as an act of social responsibility toward South African wine and the people who invested in them despite the odds. In 2016, owner Johann Rupert agreed to sponsor the Old Vine Project and André Morgenthal and Jaco Engelbrecht were appointed after both having been informally involved with the project for some years.
Situated in the isolated Elandskloof Valley just North of Villiersdorp, Altima was purchased from the Overnstone Family in 2008. It is 5km wide and surrounded by a steep mountain range rising 1km from the valley floor. With a total average rainfall of 906mm per year, irrigation is generally unnecessary before the end of December. Coupled with the huge difference in temperatures between night and day, this continental climate is perfect for grapevine development. Good decomposed shale soils from the Malmesbury group are the predominant soils on the farm. With high water-retention, organic matter and usually no chemical limitation, it facilitates vigorous growth. Vineyards are planted from 600m above sea-level, with the highest vineyards planted at 878m. The steep topography causes the valley to receive less direct sunlight, making for a distinctly cooler climate.
Cape of Good Hope Sneeuwkrans Pinot Noir 2018, WO Elandskloof, 13% Abv.
Sourced from vineyards in the Elandskloof, an area renowned for producing premium Pinot Noir grapes, Anthonij Rupert Wines has created an exciting expression in 2018 from North-East and South-Western facing slopes consisting of decomposed shale at an altitude of 690 to 714 metres. The aromatics are suitably earthy and wild with hints of bramble berries, sweet herbs, sun raisined cranberries, red currant and strawberry compote. The palate is fleshy and plush with finely crafted tannins, a silky soft mouthfeel with plenty of finesse and textured elegance and a long, sweet fruited finish boasting notes of red cherry, red plum, blood oranges, sweet wood spice and earthy hints of cured meats on the finish. Complex and approachable now, you can enjoy this wine over the next 3 to 5 years.
