Santorini

ALS Wines Release Another Exceptional Extreme Terroir Santorini Assyrtiko 2020…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

ALS is the exceptional terroir driven dry white wine creation from three young Greek winemaking talents in Yiannis Papaoikonomou, Ilias Roussakis and Alexis Kolovos. Yiannis Papaoikonomou studied oenology in Athens before coming to Santorini in 2009 to work at Domaine Sigalas, where he worked as a vineyard manager (under the guidance of a consultant) and as an assistant winemaker. In 2013, Yiannis left Santorini to go to Chile (Vina Maquis), New Zealand (Oyster Bay) and France (Chapoutier) for further work experience and in 2015 he finally returned to Santorini to literally help build the Vassaltis Winery from scratch with Ilias Roussakis.

After working the 2023 harvest in South Africa, Yiannis returned back to Santorini to focus on his various projects including the magnificent ALS extreme terroir white wine. What makes this wine special is the way it retains all the characteristics that have made Santorini Assyrtiko great and certainly world famous – Salinity, acidity, nervy freshness, volcanic minerality, and its maritime influences both on the nose and palate. Top Santorini Assyrtiko whites are expensive wines to buy these days, but I can’t help feel than so many of the top names have struggled to reach the heights of quality seen in exceptional vintages like the 2017s. Nowadays, the wines just seem fatter, riper, oilier, less fresh, less mineral, less nervy, less saline and generally less volcanic… all the features that should set these great wines apart from other Greek white wines, especially the ones from the mainland. But then you taste wines like the ALS, and you realise that some producers are still making wines that resonate with quality!

The ALS 2020 was produced from a manually picked cluster selection in the vineyards on 24th August 2020. Harvested very early in the morning, the fruit from Santorini was then transported to Syros in a refrigerated truck where it underwent direct pressing with racking after 12 hours. After fermentation, the wine saw bâtonnage for four months and then lay “Sur Lie” for 13 months. The 2020 was bottled on the 10th February 2022. Production is very small, only circa 1,300 bottles, so you’ll need to be very quick if you are going to successfully buy a bottle.

ALS Extreme Terroir Assyrtiko 2020, Santorini, 13% Abv.

6.8g/l TA | 3.08pH | 0.3g/l VA

The 2020 dry white Assyrtiko from Yiannis Papaoikonomou and the Absinthos LP project is an incredibly vivid wine release that simply oozes volcanic terroir. A translucent pale straw yellow in the glass, the aromatics span the full array of mineral, herbal, and fruit notes all tightly wound under a magnificent maritime sea breeze veil. Wonderfully pure and precise, the wine reveals layer upon layer of briney salinity, basaltic rocks, roasted almonds, white toast, yellow plum, white peach, yellow citrus and green pear with a light dusting of dried green herbs. The palate too is packed full of flavour fireworks, conveying a real sense of seashore complexity, crashing waves, and volcanic beaches. This 2020 offers stunning fruit purity and a bright, salty, piercing acidity that is so integral to premium Santorini Assyrtiko. With a little more time in the glass, delightful hints of nectarine, oyster shell and hazelnuts develop, all intertwined with a delicious wet river stone basaltic minerality on the finish. Sublime balance, invigorating acids and a mouth-watering salinity make this one of the most impressive Assyrtiko’s produced from Santorini. Drink now and over the next 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

http://www.als-wine.com

It’s All Greek to Me! The South African Flirtation with Greece’s Assyrtiko Grape Continues Unabated…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The first Assyrtiko white I tasted from South Africa was Eben Sadie’s Sadie Family Assyrtiko 2015 produced from bunches picked from his two-year-old vines planted around his winery, coming in at 12% alcohol with a bone dry 1.4 g/l RS, a vibrant 5.9 g/l TA and a lowish pH of 3.28. The wine was astonishing and had all the salinity, mouth watering tartness and savoury fleshiness you would hope for on a delicious example. Almost all the wine made from this small crop was consumed at Cape Wine 2015 during the “alternative varieties” seminar presented by Eben Sadie and Rosa Kruger. A superb tasting that was standing room only… and also featured Sadie Family experimental wines from Verdelho, Mencia and Agiorgitiko, Newton Johnson’s maiden 2014 Albarino and Bosman’s maiden Nero d’Avola 2014.

While Eben may have pulled up all these early vines and replanted them with better vine material, he continues to make an Assyrtiko from grapes from a secret vineyard on limestone soils up the west coast near St Helena Bay. The exact location is apparently a closely guarded secret. I saw a concrete egg of the 2022 vintage in October last year at the farm but was unable to taste it as it had just been topped up by winemaker Paul Jordaan. Apparently it is destined to be blended away in the Palladius. But it was the Mullineuxs, Eben’s Swartland neighbours, who succeeded in bottling the first commercial Assyrtiko along with Stellenbosch producer Gary Jordan. The Mullineux Assyrtiko was planted at their Roundstone farm along with Macabeo, Verdelho, Vermentino and a few others cultivars while Gary had already put in two large blocks of Assyrtiko and is planning a third.

Jordan’s first Assyrtiko block pictured in youth in February 2020.

With Assyrtiko famous for making vibrantly fresh white wine styles even at elevated alcohol levels, and being very drought and heat resistant, it looks set to become one of South Africa’s most popular “cult” varieties in the years ahead. For now, the Jordan Winery and the Mullineuxs are producing two exemplary examples and I recently popped the corks and tasted these two new release 2022 Assyrtikos head-to-head.

Jordan Assyrtiko 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

An expressive, dusty, mineral expression that shows an almost granitic Chenin-like fruit core with plenty of maritime salinity, white flower perfume, rock salt, freshly cut fennel and crunchy white pear. But from young vines, this is a very impressively constructed wine with a cool fleshy core, tangy acids and a peachy, green apple rock candy and piquant bite on the finish. A truly wonderful expression that may still lack some of the true volcanic “island feel” of the greatest Santorini white Assyrtiko wines, but it is nevertheless an incredible interpretation of this variety considering the age of the vines. Keep a very close watch on future releases of this wine that is sure to become a South African cult collectable. 

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Family Wines Assyrtiko 2022, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.

This beautiful Swartland expression shows a dense, mineral smoky aromatics with complex notes of crushed granite, dried kelp, clementine peel and sea breeze. The palate shows intricate textural layers, ample structure and deliciously complex stone fruit nuances with a definite liquid minerality undertone. A really impressive creation that blossoms in the glass showing tangerine and pithy lemon pastille. Like all the wines in the Mullineux range, this is yet another classy, polished varietal expression. Drink now and over the next 4 to 6 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Wines are imported into the UK by Liberty Wines and Jordan Wines are represented exclusively by Awin Barret Siegel Wine Agencies (ABS).

Revisiting a Ground-breaking Cape White Wine – Tasting the Naude Family Wines Langpad 2021 Old Vine Colombard…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The sun may be shining here in London but there is most certainly a crisp Autumnal note in the air as another phenomenally warm and sunny summer across Europe starts to fade into a mere memory. And what a summer it was! But Autumn for me is always a time of reflection and when it comes to fine wine, there were certainly a few splendid examples that have helped define the past year. One of these important wines was undoubtedly the second release of the Langpad Colombard from Old Vine maestro Ian Naude.

Almost everything Ian does seems to be ground-breaking, whether it was championing Old Vine Cinsault, helping with the Cape revival of Old Vine Semillon or redefining elegance and finesse in Provencal-style Grenache. So many producers follow in Ian’s footsteps that it sometimes becomes hard to even remember where all the excitement started. With Ian Naude’s Old Vine Langpad Colombard 2020, South Africa witnessed the birth of the first boutique production Old Vine Certified heritage wine from this traditional ‘work horse’ variety. Which is probably a good time to remind readers that South Africa also had another under appreciated work horse variety a few years ago – Chenin Blanc – which is now regarded as one of South Africa’s Grand Cru white offerings.

As I look ahead to visiting the Cape again in October 2022, I can confidently look back at my recent visit there in March when I met up with Ian Naude and tasted his new 2022 Langpad Colombard from tank before bottling. Another riveting example that is sure to continue in the footsteps of the maiden 2020 and the phenomenal 2021, which was awarded 5 Stars in the Platter’s South African Wine Guide and also, more importantly, Platter’s Wine of the Year.

I tasted and reviewed the 2021 almost a year ago, and after hearing that it was now sold out in South Africa, with the last remaining stocks heading to the thirsty UK market, it seemed the perfect time to retaste this benchmark white wine again and sing its praises for any wine collectors and connoisseurs that have not discovered its joys yet.

Naude Family Wines Old Vines Langpad Colombard 2021, WO Western Cape, 12% Abv.

1.3 g/l RS | 6.1 g/l TA | 3.3 pH

This second vintage of Naude’s Old Vine Colombard is certainly something very special. The aromatics are lifted and expressive with rich intense notes of green apple pastille, white peaches, green pear, dried herbs, sea breeze and a seductive rich seam of crushed stone minerality. On the palate there is even more concentration and mouth coating flavour intensity than maiden 2020 with enchanting layers of crunchy white peach, seductive hints of ripe guava, pear, green mango and an underlying basaltic stony minerality that combines with a pronounced maritime rock salt character and a tangy, bright acid freshness. After over a year in bottle, the wine has shed the subtle rock candy and cream soda puppy fat hints and swopped these for additional layers of salinity, minerality and mouth-watering fruit purity. Often regaled as reminding drinkers of premium Assyrtiko from Santorini, with time in bottle the similarities simply become more and more pronounced. But whatever comparisons are made, this wine never loses its crystalline Cape West Coast maritime terroir nuances that help make it so distinct and so utterly delicious. Enjoy its complexity now or fill your cellar for drinking over the next 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Last allocations of this wine are available in the UK and EU from Museum Wines for £29.99pb.

https://www.museumwines.co.uk/product/naude-wines-langpad-colombard-vredendal-south-africa-2021/

Vassaltis Vineyards Breaking the Mould with Their Experimental Reds – Tasting the New Kalupi 2020 Red Blend…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

If it’s not South African wines international wine critics are raving about these days then there’s a very good chance they will be writing about all the exciting new wines coming out of both the Greek mainland and its many idyllic Mediterranean islands. But that’s not where the similarities end.

Both countries have experienced a revolution in wine quality, South Africa in the early 2000s onwards and Greece more latterly. Both countries have also been quick out the blocks with their exceptional white wines, many in Greece based around the premium flagship varieties of Assyrtiko or Malagousia, just as Chenin Blanc was used in South Africa to lead the charge. For top quality red wines however, both countries have faced more of a challenge elevating wine quality across styles and varieties.

Visiting old vine vineyards in Vourvoulos, Santorini with owner Yannis Valambous and winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou.

South Africa is now reaping the benefits of two decades of experimentation, precision viticulture and striving for terroir driven wine quality. In Greece, the greater red wine project is still regarded as a work in progress, but there are top producers like Vassaltis making steady leaps in quality with new experimental reds like this Mavrotragano blend. As so often is the case, the answer to refinement and elegance lies in making wines where less is more, built around earlier picking times, fruit purity and natural acid freshness. The revolution in quality is well underway.

This new Red is a field blend of 30% Mandilaria, 30% Mavrotragano and 40% Assyrtiko, co-fermented with some semi-carbonic on the Mavrotragano, sun-drying on the Mandilaria and whole bunch on the Assyrtiko. Vassaltis used the Mavrotragano for the aromatics, fruit and structured tannis, the Mandilaria for the glycerol, alcohol and acidity and the Assyrtiko essentially for the part of the blend that brings all these elements together to give the wine a characteristic balance and roundness. The wine saw no oak ageing.

100 to 120 year old vine Assyrtiko in the kouloura training system in Vourvoulos.

Vassaltis Vineyards Kalupi Red Blend 2020, Santorini, 14% Abv.

Made very much in the less is more philosophy, the aromatics are initially dark, mineral, basaltic and spicy before layers of sappy black berries, crushed gravel, dried herbs and notes of forest bramble berries and sun raisined cranberries. Texturally, this has more in common with the Loire, Burgundy or dare I say it, the Swartland, with a tight knit fruit density displayed with effortless elegance, weightless fruit concentration and vibrantly fresh, energetic acids. If I tasted this wine blind, Greece would be among my last possible options indicating what a paradigm shifting, well honed quality Red this wine really is. With its underlying basaltic terroir, the wine finishes with an impressively elegant, restrained classicism draped in a delicately mineral tannin veil. There is a hint of warmth on the end of the finish but is not enough to detract from the overall impression of excellence that this wine offers. Drink it slightly chilled, but certainly decanted, and the pleasure will follow. (250 bottles produced in 2018 and 1,250 in the follow up 2022.)

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tasting the New Release of Santorini’s Vassaltis Winery’s Assyrtiko 2019 – The Pocket Vintage…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The 2019 vintage in Santorini was described as the “pocket vintage” with circa 1,000 tons of grapes harvested on the island compared to the normal 3,000 tons. Fortunately, quality was high and new boutique producers like Vassaltis Winery, who have already established a very high quality track record, were able to source sufficient quantities of high quality old vine Assyrtiko.

For the vintage, owner and proprietor Yiannis Valambous stated that “our source vineyards in Vourvoulos yielded approximately 50% less than they did in 2018. Yields were approximately 6 hl/ha. It is scary, but it is what it is… on the upside, quality seems to be outstanding.” I recently tasted a bottle of the Vassaltis Black Label “estate” Assyrtiko and was suitably impressed.

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2019, PDO Santorini, 14% Abv.

Summer is in the air and this new 2019 Assyrtiko from Yiannis Valambous is another serious benchmark Santorini white. With the island’s unique volcanic terroir and old vines, you always know there will be freshness combined with a concentration of flavour and minerality. This classical rendition speaks of Santorini’s maritime terroir with a fabulously complex nose of dusty basaltic minerality, crushed gravel, salted almonds, lemon bon bons and dried summer grasses. On the palate there is impressive purity and precision, a hallmark of all the Vassaltis wines that combine a palate tingling intensity of salty, briney zest, deliciously tangy acids and a remarkable palate breath that leaves a long lasting impression. Drink now and over 3-5 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Revisiting the Exceptional Gramina Single Vineyard Assyrtiko 2018 from the Vassaltis Winery…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Greek wines, but more specifically the white Assyrtiko wines of the volcanic Cyclade island of Santorini, are continuing to see an ongoing collector renaissance not witnessed in classical Western wine markets since the mid-2000’s when now iconic producers such as the late Haridimos Hatzidakis burst onto the United Kingdom wine scene with profound unoaked old vine Assyrtiko whites from this small volcanic oasis in the Southern Aegean Archipelago.

This rising global fame has indeed led to rising demand but has also seen the island’s key growers, who supply a large quantity of the premium old vine fruit, raise their prices year on year for the last 6 or 7 years, leading to a situation where affordability has become a big issue for many producers buying in grapes. One way to counteract this supply pressure has been for producers to make more focused, niche, premium Assyrtiko wines and there are none more niche and quality focused than the impressive Vassaltis Gramina single vineyard Assyrtiko made from grapes harvested from very old kouloura trained vines.

The Vassaltis winery on Santorini

On the eve of the release of the new 2019 Gramina, I took another look at the current release 2018 to see just how it’s performing three years from vintage.

The maiden 2017 release of Gramina scored 96+/100 from The Fine Wine Safari.

Vassaltis Gramina Cuvee des Vignerons Assyrtiko 2018 Single Vineyard, PDO Santorini, 14% Abv.

Like the maiden 2017 vintage of the Gramina, the 2018 is made from 100% Assyrtiko grapes that are harvested from an old vine single vineyard in Vourvoulos. The meagre crop of the 80 to 100+ year old vines is picked in the early hours of the morning in the autumnal dark and whole bunch pressed with around only 2 to 3 hours passing between the commencement of picking and the completion of pressing into stainless steel tanks, which miraculously has an enormous influence on the structure, style, clarity and purity of the resulting juice.

Compared to most upfront Santorini Assyrtiko whites, this sensational creation captures a profound granitic, basaltic, volcanic minerality in the bouquet, which is interwoven with intricate notes of dried oregano and thymus polytrichus or wild thyme herbs. Neither overtly fruity or showy, the nose and palate is nonetheless underpinned by the most mouth watering acidity that duals with sweet sour notes of green apple pastille, crunchy white peaches and intense saline notes of brine and sea breeze with complexing nuances of dried kelp, sushi nori, dry roasted hazelnuts and bitter lemon peel pith. While never straying far from its crystalline purity and intensity, the palate texture remains bold, fleshy and long with characteristic layers of Santorini liquid minerality and oyster shell distinctiveness. A true terroir driven beauty of a wine! Released in the UK in June 2020 with almost 9 months ageing in bottle, the Gramina has to rank among the most impressive whites produced anywhere in Greece, let alone on the Cycladic islands and is undoubtedly a worthy successor to the epic maiden 2017 release.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tasting the Super Santorini Ancestral Vines “Assyrtiko 34” from Artemis Karamolegos…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Artemis Karamolegos is one of the most dynamic wineries on the unique volcanic island of Santorini. Led by his grandfather, who started making wine and cultivating vines as a hobby in the 1950s, Artemis founded the winery in 2004. The local variety Assyrtiko, which has become the flag bearer for quality wine across the whole of Greece, is at the heart of the estate’s production.

They own just over 3ha of vineyards (some over 100 years old) from many of the best villages to grow Assyrtiko – Pyrgos, Megalorchori, Exo Gonia, Akrotiri and Fira. Long-term leases on another 5 hectares allows them to manage and work with an amazing range of aspects, altitudes and local varieties. Their hugely talented young winemaker Lefteris Anagnostou crafts a small range of cuvées ranging from premium single vineyard wines though to multi-site blends using a marriage of modern and ancient winemaking techniques.

Assyrtiko 34 is the name of one of the Karamolegos winery’s top old vine cuvées that pays tribute to the 34 centuries that Santorini has been re-inhabited after one of the most awesome volcanic eruptions in the history on mankind. Throughout these 34 centuries, viticulture has continued uninterrupted, cultivating among other varieties, the noble and indigenous grape of Assyrtiko. Grapes for this cuvée are sourced from specially selected very old vine vineyards of Assyrtiko mainly from around Pyrgos, Megalochori and Exo Gonia.

I recently held a fascinating tasting with the winemaker at Artemis Karamolegos winery, Lefteris Anagnostou, who expertly outlined the fascinating history of viticulture in Santorini and the philosophy behind the superb wines of the Karamolegos winery.

Artemis Karamolegos Santorini Ancestral Vines Assyrtiko 34 2018, PDO Santorini, 14% Abv.

This delicious Assyrtiko 2018 is a really masterful exercise in mouth watering wine pleasure delivery. Classic white wine vinification is employed with a percentage of pre-fermentation cold soak with only the free-run juice used, fermented in stainless steel tanks under controlled temperatures with the use of selected neutral yeast but also some wild yeasts for different tanks in order to express the pure varietal character of Assyrtiko. The Cuvée 34 shows a minimalistic approach in the winemaking process using maturation on total fine lees for at least five months with frequent stirring (bâtonnage). On the nose, this white screams Assyrtiko typicity, displaying all the liquid minerality and basaltic volcanic rock intensity you’d hope for together with rich concentrated notes of crunchy white peaches, tart green apple, chamomile tea, pear drop and a rasping saline, briney, leesy flavour of the sea. The palate also shows piercing, well defined acid freshness, a fleshy intense concentration but also ample dry extract and palate weight to make this wine into a truly exciting proposition. Fabulously long, the finish is pure liquid minerality with a hint of savoury, almond piquant spice. Drink now or keep for 2 to 3+ more years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Artemis Karamolegos wines are imported into the UK by WoodWinters Vintners.

Vassaltis Vineyards – The New Premium Rising Star From Santorini in the Southern Aegean Archipelago…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 4 Comments

Few wine producing countries globally are on the worldwide ascendancy quite like South Africa with its incredible diversity of grapes varieties, its broad array of wine styles produced, its new young energetic winemakers and the ever rising quality of the premium wines. But just before you think this popular success is confined solely to a New World nation, rest assured, one of the most ancient grape growing countries in the world is also riding the crest of an ever growing wave of popularity. Greek wines, but more specifically the white Assyrtiko wines of the Cyclade island of Santorini are currently seeing a renaissance not witnessed in classical Western wine markets since the mid-2000’s when now iconic producers like the late Haridimos Hatzidakis burst onto the United Kingdom wine scene with profound unoaked old vine Assyrtiko whites from this small volcanic oasis in the Southern Aegean Archipelago.

After reaching a notional pinnacle of commercial success towards the late 2000’s, the global crash and subsequent Greek financial crisis in 2010 served to relegate most of the up and coming Greek wines, including the hugely successful wines of Santorini, back to the touchlines of mainstream wine markets as consumers reluctantly battened down the hatches and anecdotally reverted back to buying the classics of France, Spain and Italy again.

With Winemaker Yiannis and owner Yiannis in the Vassaltis cellar.

It was around this time that Yiannis Valambous, the current day owner and visionary behind the Vassaltis winery,decided to leave his career in financial services in London and return to Santorini, a childhood holiday destination, with a plan to revive the family vineyards that he inherited from his late father in 2012 and build a modern, state of the art premium boutique winery. Along with oenologist Elias Roussakis and winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou, Yiannis created a team with a shared vision of producing the greatest wines on the island.

The new Vassaltis Winery in Vourvoulos

I recently travelled to the island of Santorini to visit the Vassaltis winery and vineyards to better acquaint myself with the realities of growing premium grapes on this barren volcanic island and to better understand the intricate politics of sourcing the best fruit from the numerous small, fractured mosaic of local growers on the island.

Vassaltis Winery Tasting Friday 19th October With Owner Yiannis Valambous and Winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou

Vassaltis Aidani Limited Bottling 2017, PGI Cyclades, 13.5 Abv.

Palate bright lime straw colour. Mouth watering aromas of white peach, cream soda, green apple purée, honey suckle. These big Aidani bunches with thick skins are considered a fine variety to communicate the vineyard’s terroir. With a full and fleshy entry, there is a bitter liquorice bite, pithy spice, a delicately waxy texture and noticeable floral, saline mineral green apple intensity. Soapy, peachy, peppery and opulent, this late ripener has its own fleshy gregarious personality. Considered in many ways the alter ego of Assyrtiko with a higher pH and lower acids.

(Wine Safari Score: 89/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vassaltis Nassitis Dry White Wine 2017, Protected Geographical Indication Cyclades, 13.5 Abv.

Nassitis was the word by which the Dorians, who lived on the island 4000 years ago, referred to someone originating from an island. Created to use the varieties Aidani and Athiri (as well as a few others) that are often grown in field blends with Assyrtiko. But without the Assyrtiko additions, the wines often lacked balance and a finish. Assyrtiko consisted of 10-15% in the maiden 2015 release but has subsequently increased to 47% in the 2017 release, often coming from a second selection of Assyrtiko that does not make the Vassaltis Grand Vin. The wine also includes 25% to 30% each of Aidani and Athiri with an RS below 2 g/l. The nose shows and exotic bouquet of honeysuckle, peach blossom, yellow orchard fruits and crunchy green apples and greengage fruit notes but with a pronounced vein of minerality never far away. Classical dusty minerality of pumice stone and basalt remind you of the volcanic origins of this wine. On the palate, there is a taut linear tension, stony liquid minerality and subtle piquant green peppery herby fruits, spicy white peach purée and subtle nuances of sappy, resinous white citrus oil. The finish is direct and foursquare in the mouth with salinity, and a pronounced maritime influence.

(Wine Safari Score: 90+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The black volcanic basalt found in the vineyards

Vassaltis Nassitis Dry White Wine 2016, Protected Geographical Indication Cyclades, 13.5 Abv.

Using 40% Assyrtiko and 30% each of Aidani and Athiri with an RS just over 5 g/l RS, the 2016 has an opulent, exotic nose of fresh vinyl, mechanics rag, salty green apple purée, brine and hints of oyster shell in an almost off-dry Alsace style. Full and fleshy, with the extra bottle age the Assyrtiko is starting to dominate the shorter aromatic profile of the Aidani. There are complex savoury fruit notes developing showing caramelised figs, bruised greengage plums and peach pastille on the long characterful finish. Drinking well now, it displays a friendly generosity in an accessible style. Delicious now.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vassaltis Vineyards Assyrtiko Vertical:

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2017, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 13.8 Abv.

With around 1 g/l RS, this 100% Assyrtiko was fermented in stainless steel from fruit sourced 100% from the village vineyards of Vourvoulos and spent a varying time on its lees depending on when it was bottled, but usually between 6 and 11 months for the last bottling before the 2018 harvest. (This bottling is around 9 to 11 months). Classical Assyrtiko aromatics of crushed grey slate, basalt and dusty pumice stone with additional layers of saline maritime notes, oyster shell, crunchy green apples, apple pastille, musk, white citrus, leesy richness and sweet baking herbs. Intense and powerful, the palate shows impressive gravitas and depth, brimming with salty green fruits, crunchy white peach and smokey, dusty liquid mineral notes. Superbly crafted, there is a fabulous interplay between maritime salinity, terroir minerality and austere, taut, crystalline fruit purity. Really quite a profound expression of this noble variety.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/Greg Sherwood MW)

The famous old vine “kouloura” trained Assyrtiko vines

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2016, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 13.5 Abv.

Also 100% Assyrtiko from Vourvoulos, the 2016 saw 40% spontaneous fermentation and was aged on its lees for between 6 and 11 months, with this late bottling seeing 9 to 11 months. With a little extra bottle age, this 2016 shows extra complexity and exoticism. Massive aromatic depth and breadth is loaded with yellow plum, sea breeze, green apple purée, crunchy green pears, dried figs, white peach and a profound saline, maritime, fragrant honeysuckle liquid minerality. On the palate, there is a rich sour and savoury texture with impressive salinity, chalky gravel, wet river pebbles, piquant herbs and a tart sourdrop salty yellow plum acidity. So much going on that ones palate is almost overwhelmed. Delicious evolution and complex tertiary profile, this wine is drinking beautifully at the moment and is a mineral pleasure bomb. Beautiful!

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2015, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 13.5 Abv.

The first vintage vinified at the new Vassaltis winery, this wine still displays a crystalline, bright pale straw green lime brightness. On the nose there is fabulous complexity of lime peel, struck match, white citrus, yellow grapefruit, sour orange and then a savoury bass note of ripe artichoke earthiness. The dusty, stony mineral nuances are never far away, expressed as a more struck flint smokiness than the archetypal basalt and volcanic minerality we are so used to on Santorini Assyrtiko whites. The palate is super tart and fresh, linear and chalky, with a strict line of acidity and plenty of ‘dry Scheppes bitter lemon’ rasping intensity. The salinity and tart acidity loosens it grip right at the finish, unleashing a fresh wave of yellow grapefruit, brine and salted pear fruit. A wine drinking beautifully now but certainly will be equally enthralling in one or two years time. Very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

With the two Yiannis’s in their single vineyard in Vourvoulos.

Classic, barren, volcanic low potential soils of Santorini that are so suited to the Assyrtiko vines.

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2014, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 12.8 Abv.

This was first “unofficial” vintage produced from fruit from owner Yiannis’ own vineyards. Produced at the large Boutari winery in the south of the island, this wine just crept in with the legal limit of 75% Assyrtiko with the remainder being the rest of the field blend of Aidani and Athiri. Very rustic winemaking was employed in a big outdated 1980’s winery. The colour is instantaneously recognisable as different to the lime green 2015, showing a rich honied yellow gold. The nose is ripe and exotic with layers of bruised yellow orchard fruits, mechanics rag, caramelised fig, yellow peach purée and peach tea. Definitely savoury, earthy tertiary development on the nose while the palate somehow manages to retain a semblance of freshness balanced with a honied textured palate similar to aged Alsace or grand old Portuguese dry whites from the Dao. While this wine is not in the same quality league as the newer vintages produced at the Vassaltis winery, it remains an intriguing piece of vinous history in the ongoing journey of this new young premium winery.

(Wine Safar Score: 88/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2016 Barrel Aged, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 13.7 Abv.

This 100% Assyrtiko was fermented in stainless steel but aged in 500 litre second fill French oak with ample batonnage employed, remaining in barrel for around 4.5 months before being returned to stainless steel tanks on its fine lees for a further 7 months ageing. There is a lovely restrained nose of yellow citrus, yellow orchard fruits, petrichor, wet slate and basalt minerality. Oak influence is very subdued and the fruit expression also remains backward and shy, leaving the salty, stony mineral nuances to rule the roost at the moment. The most profound element of this wine is its explosive concentrated palate that displays such awesome gravitas and intensity with notes of pineapple pastille and white peach purée. At once texturally rich, broad and mouth coating while remaining bright, tart and deliciously saline. This is a wine that has left an impression on me since the very first day I tasted it. Some may scoff at the idea of ageing Assyrtiko in oak and thus adulterating the purest elements of its volcanic maritime terroir, but this 2016 wine is a towering winemaking effort with impressive gravitas, harmonious balance and imperious textural complexity. Drink now or over the next 5 to 8 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou in the cellar.

Other New Wines Tasted:

Vassaltis Assyrtiko Single Vineyard Vourvoulos 2017, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 14.3 Abv. (1,700 bottles produced)

A 1.5 hectare vineyard in Vourvoulos which has a small amount of Athiri that is picked separately at an earlier date to the Assyrtiko. Around 1.9 tons of Assyrtiko fruit are picked at night and whole bunch pressed with around only 2.5 hours between picking and pressing which the winery feels has a massive influence on the style, purity and integrity of the resulting wine. The wine is certainly aromatically massively restrained and backward, showing shy subtle nuances of dried green herbs, green apple bon bons, crystalline honeydew melon, white peach purée and an underlay of dusty, granitic, crushed basalt rock and grey slate minerality. On the palate the wine shows pin point piercing precision, incredible subtlety and elegance, nuanced maritime notes of brine, oyster shell and salted white citrus. It just never puts a foot out place, remaining fantastically true to the varietal characteristics of Assyrtiko, its terroir influences and its profound volcanic liquid minerality. Extra focus, extra intensity and a seemingly impossible step up yet again in quality compared to the wineries ‘regular’ Assyrtiko cuvée. Due for release in May 2019 with almost 9 months ageing in bottle, this could be one of the greatest expressions of pure Assyrtiko ever seen from Santorini in modern times.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

“This cuvee is like an orchestra seeking greater presence, where instead of trying to turn up the volume for overt impact, it has instead increased the number of musicians from 20 players to 100. The resulting sound is exponentially more profound and the added gravitas spellbinding.”

Vassaltis Assyrtiko Single Vineyard 2016, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 14.8 Abv.

A 100% Assyrtiko wine that is late harvested around two weeks after the main picking of Assyrtiko. A very small amount of grapes, too small for the pneumatic press, so only real free run juice was collected followed by spontaneous fermentation started in tank before being transferred to a 40 year old barrel which developed a layer of flor after being “seeded” from a flor sample created at the winemakers Yiannis’ home in a jar under more controlled humidity conditions but using some of the same wine. The flor layer collapsed into the wine after 2 months so the barrel was topped up with Vassaltis Santorini Assyrtiko 2016. This flor barrel was then blended with a portion of remaining free run juice from the same vineyard which was aged 3 months in a 100% new French oak 225 litre barriques. The blended wine stayed in stainless steel 6 months before bottling in 75cl and 150cl bottles.

The nose shows a wonderfully creamy, dusty, biscuity nose of lees, lemon peel, honey suckle, dried herbs, Japanese green tea and tell tale salty sherry flor salinity nuances. Subtle notes of dried mint leaf, bruised yellow orchard fruits, wet grey slate and wet basalt round out a thoroughly complex and intriguing bouquet. Texturally full and broad, this has an incredibly concentrated texture of salted lemons, tequila agave spice, bitter oranges, salty oyster shell, white peaches, grated pears, pine apple pastille, botanical herbs and an awesome, towering acidity. This wine combines savoury citrus fruits with salty maritime flor background notes punctuated by tart searing acids and a savoury, liquid mineral, leesy sweet / sour finish. One of the most exciting and profound wines I have tasted (from anywhere) in a very long time. One for the collectors!

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2017 Barrel Aged, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 13.8 Abv.

With the 2016 already being one of my favourite wines from Vassaltis, knowing that the 2017 vintage is a quite serious proposition, led to a lot of extra anticipation to taste this new wine. With 4 g/l RS, this wine remains taut and linear in feel, the bouquet showing attractive but subtle notes of salted caramel biscuits, savoury lemon peel, rock salt and crushed basalt and gravel minerality. Plenty of restraint and reserved liquid minerality, this wine suggests a serious proposition and the palate doesn’t disappoint. Jammed packed full of pineapple pastille and sweet crunchy green apple, there are deliciously vibrant acids with a serious wound sprung tension that is accentuated by the clarity of fruit purity and tart pithy peach fruit salinity. Similar to the 2016 in many ways in the way it absorbs the oak and barrel ageing and offers back nothing but the purest of Assyrtiko citrus fruits, subtle vanilla pod spice and layers of liquid minerality. This is benchmark delicious Santorini.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The very old vine vineyards in the south west of the island near Pyrgos producing some of the best Assyrtiko fruit on the island.

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2015 Barrel Aged, Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini, 13.5 Abv.

This late release expression was held back in the winery and will be release in approximately 2020 with a free SO2 of approximately 60ppm versus the original release of 2015 that was around 35ppm. This is a big bold fleshy Assyrtiko that is capable of handling not only lengthy barrel ageing but also extended bottle ageing with the addition of extra SO2 added before the final bottling.The aromatics are fairly mineral and tight, dusty and gravelly with a pronounced chalky lemon purity, green bananas, greengage plum and a generally tauter, fresher, more youthful overall feel to the wine with a gentle kiss of vanilla oak spice. The palate comes across as slightly two speed and two dimensional versus the complex melange of yellow pastille fruits and vanilla spice that was served up the last time I tasted the maiden barrel aged 2015 version. Taut, softly textured, mellow yet vibrantly fresh and retrained, this wine suggests great potential but currently is reticent and unwilling to release its hidden secrets that one can sense are there in abundance. This is a great forward thinking endeavour that will help show consumers the history and evolution of some of Vassaltis’ older expressions but also present the wines in a mellow, youthful well preserved format. A very excitingprospect for the future.

(Wine Safari Score: 93-95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The view from the town of Thira towards Skaros Rock.

The General Classification System on Santorini:

1. PDO : Protected Designation of Origin Santorini

2. PGI : Protected Geographical Indication Cyclades

3. Varietal Classification

4. VdT : Vin de Table style

Another Epic White Assyrtiko Release From the Vassaltis Winery in Santorini…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Vassaltis Winery is the latest addition to Santorini’s booming wine culture, with construction completed in April 2016. Yiannis Valambous, together with oenologists Elias Roussakis and Yannis Papaeconomou, who complete the team, share the vision that Santorini can produce world class wines and that a new generation of Greek winemakers can deliver big results, given the opportunity.

Typically, in the winery, after the gentle pressing of whole bunch clusters, they allow the free run juice vinification to take place in stainless steel tanks under controlled temperature. The wine remains on its lees for 6 months in the tank before bottling.

Vassaltis Assyrtiko 2017, DO Santorini, 13.8 Abv.

The latest release from Yiannis Valambous’ Vassaltis Winery is another absolute cracker. Pale straw yellow, the aromatics show incredible intensity and complexity with layers of crunchy green pear, pithy apple, white citrus, almonds skins and a most captivating maritime note that wafts out the glass. An incredible mix of salty sea breeze, kelp beds, rain drenched concrete and crushed granite minerality mix with notes baking herbs, dried straw and yellow pithy orchard fruits. The palate shows an impressive grown up restraint and displays vibrant fleshy layers of yellow stone fruits, yellow grapefruit and white peach, all underpinned by a tantalising salty, briney twang and chiselled, crystalline fresh acids. A really profound white wine that serves as a flag-bearer for the island of Santorini and its iconic Assyrtiko variety. Drink now to 2028+

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

http://www.vassaltis.com

Vassaltis Vineyards Pushing The Boundries of Quality and Style – Revisiting the Maiden Santorini Assyrtiko Barrel Aged 2015 White…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Home to one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world, those lucky enough to have visited this jewel of the Cyclades will know that the same volcano that created Santorini’s dramatic caldera views, also created the volcanic soils that produce some of the world’s most exquisitely fresh and mineral white wines, from local grape Assyrtiko.

Representing the younger generation of winemaking at Vassaltis, Yannis Valambous has brought a passion and an energy to drive quality to the level of fine white Burgundies and Rhones that dominate the world stage. Working with his friend and now colleague Elias Roussakis, an extremely experienced oenologist, they work with their aegean eco system, using only indigenous grape varieties, utilising traditional viticultural practices.

Only last week I tasted the second release of the Vassaltis Barrel Aged Assyrtiko from 2016, a profound white wine that I scored 95 points, possibly my one of my highest ever scores for a Greek white wine. From those Assyrtiko lovers who have not tasted it, I did receive a subtle ridicule for “liking” an oak influenced Assyrtiko so much. To many, this is a grape truly expressive of its volcanic terroir and should not be adulterated or tampered with. But that’s semantics. Assyrtiko works harmoniously with oak if sensitively handled as well as Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc for example.

So, as a pre England v France 6 Nations 2018 rugby match warm up aperitif, I decided to revisit the maiden 2015 Barrel Aged Assyrtiko to put my 2016 note and score in proper context. 🌹🏉🍷

Vassaltis Vineyards Assyrtiko Barrel Aged 2015, Santorini, Greece, 13.5 Abv.

In the 2015 vintage, Vassaltis added a barrel aged Assyrtiko to their range, using low-toast and top-quality French oak to give beautifully well-integrated toasty spice notes and a creamy texture to Assyrtiko’s naturally intense minerality. With another year in bottle since I tasted this wine, the nose remains bold and unbridled, full of rich, pithy yellow orchard fruits, dusty volcanic minerality, sweet smokey tart pineapple pastille fruits and a very subtle, vanilla pod spice allure. On the palate, the Assyrtiko grape characters reign supreme, with vanillary creme brûlée oak notes very much a footnote. The wine retains its profound basalt mineral character, a dusty pithy yellow fruit intensity and a finely integrated, salty, briney finish underpinned by a precise fresh acidity. A vintage of a wine that’s still a stylistic work in progress, but nevertheless, delicious! Drink now to 2025+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)