David and Nadia Sadie’s assistant winemaker André Bruyns is really starting to make his own mark in the wider world of fine wine. Yes, I’m sure being referred to as ‘the assistant winemaker’ is a moniker that will eventually start to get annoying for André, but hey, there are certainly worse places to cut your winemaking teeth than working with the gentle giant David Sadie!
André wants his wines to be specific to their site and soil type with his white grapes coming from 35 year old dryland vineyards in the Paardeberg Mountain, planted mainly with Chenin Blanc. Farmed sustainably with some organic and biodynamic practices used, the granitic soils enhance the ‘liquid minerality ’ of the grapes leading to a more focused, taut, linear style of wines.
André kicked off the City on a Hill project with his fabulous 2015 white blend made from 85% Chenin Blanc, but he now also makes a 100% Chenin Blanc white using a selection of his best barrels that reflect the restraint and linearity of the unique Paardeberg style of Chenin Blanc. I recently got my hands on a bottle of the 2017 and true to form, André has produced another cracking wine! This is a great little project to watch closely!
City On A Hill Chenin Blanc 2017, WO Swartland, 12.5 Abv.
This is a fascinating expression of Chenin Blanc created by André Bruyns. It’s the liquid equivalent of an enigma wrapped in a mystery that’s wrapped in a conundrum. The aromatics show crystalline white peach and yellow citrus, early season crunchy yellow orchard fruits but also pronounced salty, briney oxidative saline sea breeze notes. Underneath it all is this profound sense of liquid granitic minerality that pervades the wine. On the palate the tug of war continues, being taut but rich, salty but peachy, stony and thoroughly citric. Delicious oxidative notes of brine and dry roasted nuts rub shoulders with crisp bright acids, yet more overt minerality and an ample fleshy Chenin palate that retains a tight, crisp tension-laden finish. Intellectually, this wine is exhausting; hedonistically, it possesses the palate excitement of an eight year old child’s birthday and Christmas rolled into one! Still super youthful so drink a few bottles now but be sure to cellar at least a few for revisiting over 8-15+ years. A deliciously intriguing white!
One of my life long mantras has always been that nice people make nice wines. After 11 years hard graft at Adoro Wines, in 2018 Ian finally followed his dreams and branched out with his own venture, launching Naude Family Wines. Focusing primarily on his old vine parcels of Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Cinsault and Grenache, Ian has also been teaching old dogs new tricks experimenting with some younger vine parcels of Swartland Chenin Blanc, Koekenaap Colombard and Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon.
The world’s most respected wine critic, Neal Martin, recently featured the Naude Family Wines Old Vine Series Chenin Blanc 2013, describing Ian as one of South Africa’s great unsung heroes of the Cape wine industry. For those that have been following Ian’s exceptional wines, they will know all too well of his incredible talent for bottling a vineyard’s unique terroir signature like capturing a liquid photograph.
Naude Family Wines A Naude Egg Chenin Blanc 2018, WO Western Cape, 13 Abv.
Sourced from a prime vineyard in the Swartland, this more accessibly priced baby Chenin Blanc from younger vines was naturally fermented with wild yeasts in a concrete egg without any additions whatsoever. The resulting wine is wonderfully balanced and bristles with energy and vivacity by way of a fine line of acidity. True to its Swartland origins, this impressive Chenin Blanc is understated and classical with a fine linear textural focus that builds in the mouth to reveal layers of pineapple pastille fruits, yellow orchard fruits, morning dew on fresh bales of hay, crunchy green apples and a complex stony granitic minerality on the finish. A truly versatile wine for all cuisines and all occasions, you can drink this baby Chenin on release or cellar for another 3 to 5+ years for added complexity.
By now we all know the tragedy that befell Samantha O’Keefe at her Greyton winery in 2019 when wild bushfires destroyed her winery and homestead together with her entire 2019 vintage. Fortunately, her 2018s were stored at another location and survived.
Samantha is thankfully back up and running in temporary cellar space and with the help of many in the SA wine industry, has produced wines from the superb 2020 vintage. With the 2018 vintages arriving in the UK in March, escaping the shackles of the South African export lockdown, I thought it was the perfect time to post this stellar review.
I tasted the 2018 Reserve Syrah for the first time in October 2019 and kept a second bottle until May 2020 to watch it settle further. This wine is a towering achievement and in one glassful, summarises the greatness being achieved with all the wines at Lismore, especially the Reserve ranges made from Greyton estate fruit, but also makes the pain of losing the entire 2019 production that much more heartfelt and tragic.
If you can get your hands of some of this wine, you absolutely must!
Lismore Reserve Syrah 2018, WO Greyton, 12.5 Abv.
This suave, sophisticated Syrah offering made from 100% Greyton estate fruit used 50% of whole bunches in the fermentation before being aged in both 500 and 700 litre French oak barrels with roughly a third of new oak. After following this wine from its maiden release, the 2018 towers above anything that has come before. The bouquet is mesmerising, lifted, intricate, showing perfumed violets and fragrant dried lavender with striking notes of pink musk, dusty limestone minerality, grilled winter chestnuts, bonfire cinders and an attractive savoury, earthy black berry, black cherry complexity. The palate is so incredibly lithe and elegant, pure, fresh and linear with fabulous luminosity and brightness of fruit. Wonderfully intense and focused yet simultaneously light on its feet, this stellar release is a dead ringer for the finest, most elegant Cote Roties from the Northern Rhône. A truly epic, spellbinding creation from Samantha O’Keefe. Drink on release or cellar for 10+ years.
The new annual releases of Lukas Van Loggerenberg have certainly evolved into a highly anticipated occasion watched very closely by merchants and consumers alike. Undoubtedly, Lukas is one of the most talented winemakers to come out of South Africa in the last few years, producing wines with incredible focus and tension, purity and liquid minerality that lays bare the terroir characteristics of his various selected vineyards.
I caught up with Lukas recently and tasted through all his 2019 new releases, from a vintage that shows many passing resemblances to the taut, mineral 2017s. Indeed, the minerality and subtle austere restraint that is evident throughout the entire range, made for an interesting topic of conversation. Together with the fresh acidities and low alcohol levels, Lukas’s latest releases are yet again an exercise in precision and restraint. Bag your allocations asap as production levels are small but highly sought after.
Lukas Van Loggerenberg Break A Leg Rose 2019, 12.3 Abv.
Fourth vintage of this sophisticated Rose but the first use of this 27 year old Helderberg located vineyard planted on soft sandy decomposed granite just above the Craven Cinsault vineyard owned by Pieter Bredell. Three pickings make up the final wine which is fermented in old oak which removes the New World tooty fruity Rose character to expose the more grown up serious side of the wine a la Provençal Rose wines. The nose if loaded with wet slate, rain on granite, sun dried strawberries and pithy red cherry with a dusting of dried herbs. Cool, textured and quite glycerol in the mouth, this wine has lovely poise, precision and purity and a full mouthfeel more associated with higher alcohol wines…but all delivered at just over 12 Abv. A fabulous gastronomic Rose wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Lukas Van Loggerenberg Trust Your Gut Chenin Blanc 2019, 12.75 Abv.
This wine is 73% Paardeberg from 40 year old Chenin Blanc vines with 27% from a 34 year old Polkadraai vineyard. The bouquet shows lovely caramelised yellow orchard fruits with white peach, honey on buttered white toast and a lemon herb crushed granite liquid minerality. Palate shows impressive concentration and intensity, peach pastille and pineapple cordial mixed with granitic herbal notes. Beautiful harmonious balance, texturally very polished and pure. Super impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Lukas Van Loggerenberg Kameraderie Chenin Blanc 2019, 13.03 Abv.
From an old vine Chenin Blanc vineyard planted in 1960 that yielded a meagre 1200 bottles in 2019 thanks to the drought, baboons and the age of the vines. The vineyard delivers incredible concentration with an almost Champagne-like pH of 3.2. This shows similar characters to the Trust Your Gut but with an even more pronounced crush granite minerality, slate dust and sweet grilled herbs intermixed with pithy yellow orchard fruits, green pistachio and piquant crunchy pineapple pastille with great salinity. A super serious Chenin expression that is maybe showing more of its austere Loire’ish DNA at the moment. Drop dead gorgeous and also age worthy.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Lukas Van Loggerenberg Geronimo Cinsault 2019, WO Stellenbosch, 12.3 Abv.
From a blend of two Helderberg vineyards, one a 27 year old plot and the other a 42 year old plot. Similar to 2017, the 2019 fruit was exposed to warm days but cooler nights allowing the wine to retain a delicate perfume and intricate aromatics. There are fabulous crystalline red berry fruits, red cherry, cranberry and rose water nuances. The palate is taut and vibrant, crunchy and tart with a seductive sweet sour acidity, bright red cherry zest, savoury depth, pithy salinity and a long, spicy, Turkish delight finish. This is a very serious expression and a real flag bearer for the variety.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Lukas Van Loggerenberg Breton Cabernet Franc 2019, WO Stellenbosch, 13.1 Abv.
A blend of 3 vineyards all planted on granitic soils in the Polkadraai. Two out of three of the vineyards are whole bunch fermented adding to the aromatic spice and herbaceousness before being aged 10-11 months in old oak. The vintage has the classical wet gravel nose with all the archetypal notes of true Cabernet Franc. Plenty of plushness and weightless density with the lower yields but also shows lovely cedar and lead pencil sappy spice, graphite and a herby hedgerow perfume. Herbaceousness is in the DNA of Cabernet Franc and when cultivated correctly, can offer plushness of black fruit intensity together with the herby graphite lead pencil notes that set this variety apart. Lukas manages capture the classism without feeling forced or prickly. The texture and purity is super impressive and the plush creamy concentration mouth filling and expansive. This is benchmark classical Cabernet Franc and sits among the finest expressions produced in SA.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Lukas Van Loggerenberg Graft 2019, WO Polkadraai Hills, 13.1 Abv.
The second vintage that Lukas has gone pure Syrah dropping the Cinsault component used last in the 2017. From grapes are grown on classic granite soils, the fruit was whole bunch fermented in inert plastic tanks and then foot trodden with one of the fermenting must tanks foot trodden again once a day. Aged in French oak barrels, 30% new, for 11 months. This wine shows a deep, alluring savoury brûléed black berry depth with notes of olive tapenade, blueberry crumble, black currant, granitic herby spice and liquid mineral notes of dusty gravel, incense and a certain meaty Spanish tapas bar exoticism. Lavish and distinguished, this is a really beautiful wine that finishes with pinpoint chalky powdery fine mineral tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
(Wines are available to the trade on allocation in the UK from Richard Kelley at Dreyfus Ashby)
Amiral de Cadiot is produced by Château Tayet which has been owned by the de Schepper family since 1994, the former owner, Mr. Marc Raymond, was director at de Schepper’s Chateau Haut-Breton-Larigaudière until 1993, selling his own estate to his previous employer when he retired. Tayet has an excellent terroir in Macau, very close to the AOC Margaux, which has grown by the acquisition of further high quality plots with a high plant density and today consists of 10 hectares of vines.
The “Amiral de Cadiot” by Château Tayet is considered to be one of the best Bordeaux Superieur and is one of the few wines of this class that ages 12 months in 20% new and 50% second fill barriques. The vines for this particular selection are at least 25 years old.
The Château Tayet Cuvée Amiral de Cadiot offers a whole lot of red Bordeaux magic at a truly excellent price point, something often sorely missing in these days of over ambitious, stratospherically priced icon Cru Classe wines. Wines like this in many ways represent the true heart and soul of authentic, consumer orientated classical Bordeaux. In the post Covid-19 lockdown era, wines like this are going to take on a much greater significance in the market place.
Château Tayet Cuvée Amiral de Cadiot 2011, Bordeaux Superieur, 14 Abv.
A wonderfully classical blend of 60% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, this wine has the most intricate textured layers of blueberry and cassis fruit, mocha, brown toast, vanilla pod spice and a supple, plush, sweet fruited core with bright refreshing acids, ripe fine grained tannins and complexing peripheral notes of tannery leather, cigar box and graphite spice. A whole lot of wine that will impress the staunchest of discerning wine connoisseurs. Drink now to 2024+
During all the Covid-19 lockdown madness around the world, it’s easy to forget that the world continues to turn, the vines of the Western Cape continue to grow and grapes continue to be harvested. There is certainly no “off button” when it comes to our flora and fauna.
I was lucky enough to spend almost two weeks in the Cape at harvest time in mid-February and witnessed a lot of very healthy fruit coming into various cellars. So while many in the wine trade are thinking about the impending new release whites and reds from 2019, it’s always valuable to reflect on the latest 2020 harvest, one that will undoubtedly be remembered in years to come as the “lockdown vintage”. In essence, bottled liquid memories.
Throughout the season the different grape varietals were picked between 7 and 10 days earlier than normal. Both the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were picked at lower sugar levels than the long-term average, which will result in wines with elegant structures and moderate alcohol levels.
The crop was only slightly bigger than the small 2019 harvest, but the overall small berry size will deliver wines with intense flavour and aromatic spectrums. Kanonkop obtained beautifully ripe tannins throughout the season, and they expect that the 2020 vintage will deliver elegant, classical wines with extended ageing potential.
“2020 has been super” Murray Barlow proclaims. The crop is up for most varietals and the vintage is around +15% larger than average so a welcome year as we recover from the drought years of the past four years.
Quality wise the Rustenberg grapes have superb acids and more moderate alcohols in the white wines and wonderful fruit concentration and intensity in the reds with good colour and again moderate alcohols.
“So 2020 is a good vintage by our estimations quality wise. Whether it is a great vintage will be seen in the coming months” winemaker Murray Barlow concluded.
The 2015 vintage is a historical year for Brunello di Montalcino that nobody should miss. The wines show impressive precision of vivid fruit, fine tannins and freshness in acidity despite their ripeness and richness which makes them some of the most exciting releases since 2010.
Winemakers in Montalcino were never better prepared to produce outstanding wines in a year like 2015 with their exactness in their vineyards and cellars from fine-tuned canopy management and crop thinning to optical sorting and soft fermentations. So many wine producers in Montalcino made excellent wines in 2015.
A small handful of the wines I tasted are a little bit closed at this early stage, and these will benefit from more cellar ageing. However, the majority of the samples tasted showed softly textured, generous and accessible characteristics that make them beautiful to drink straight out of the gate or with very little aging required. Bottles from the versatile 2015 vintage can go into your cellar for safekeeping or onto your dinner table for near- to medium-term consumption. The choice is yours, and that’s one of the top selling points of 2015 Brunello reds.
Valdicava – The Valdicava estate dates back to 1953 when Bramante Abbruzzese was offered the opportunity to return to the property in Montalcino where his ancestors were sharecroppers centuries before. From that time, Abbruzzese started the family vision to cultivate Sangiovese Grosso and to eventually bottle under the family name. In 1967 Bramante founded the Consorzio di Brunello. The Valdicava property lies on a high plane close to Montalcino. Wines from this area have as their signature characteristics a great balance between body and perfume.
Valdicava is the actual name of the valley in which the greatest single-vineyard wines of Brunello are produced. In the middle of this valley sits the grand Madonna del Piano vineyard along with the Valdicava estate. In 1987, the grandson of Bramante, Vincenzo Abbruzzese began to work in the vineyards and the cellar and has since transformed Valdicava into one of the most collectible and sought-after Brunello di Montalcinos in existence today. All Valdicava grapes are organically grown and no chemical pesticides or fertilizers are used in the vineyards.
Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Valdicava 2015, 14 Abv.
Rich opulent expressive nose with plenty of ripe exotic aromatics of sweet cherry, kirsch cherry liquor, crème de cassis and sweet cherry rock candy. Palate is ripe, creamy and supple with unusually sweet fleshy fine grained tannins, massive depth of fruit, electric freshness and incredible elegance, balance and harmony. Very impressive already with clear age ability potential but also unusually for Valdicava, a beautiful approachability right now.