Chenin Blanc

Another Incredibly Eye-catching Chenin Blanc from Sakkie Mouton – Tasting the New Release Revenge of the Crayfish 2023…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

With every new vintage release from Sakkie Mouton, you just never know what to expect other than that the boundaries of quality, texture and complexity will once again be pushed a little further as he learns from every consecutive vintage put in bottle. Undoubtedly, the Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin Blanc from Koekenaap, which in 2018 was his first wine produced, is now in 2023 nearing a point where the vision for his individual Weskus terroir style is starting to be cemented into something quite substantial and lasting. I probably say it every vintage, but this 2023 for me represents the finest and most grown-up expression of the Crayfish cuvee produced to date.

The 2023 Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin blanc was harvested on two separate dates, the 9th of February and the 16th of February, as the vineyard in Koekenaap ripens in two distinctive stages. Grapes were hand harvested early in the morning, then taken to a cold room and cooled down for one night. The next day the grapes were whole bunch pressed in a membrane press, with the juice being taken to a stainless steel tank for natural cold settling and no enzymes were added except for a little sulphur. Clear juice was racked off the next day into a stainless steel tank and some 500 litre barrels for natural Fermentation to start. Fermentation took about 40 days to complete. Afterwards, all the finished wine was moved to old 500 litre barrels to age for a further 10 months on their gross lees before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. No malolactic fermentation took place.

Sakkie Mouton Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Koekenaap, 13.2% Abv.

3.4g/l RS | 7.3g/l TA | 3.16pH

Already in its sixth vintage, this new Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin Blanc 2023 once again pushes the boundaries of intensity, clarity, and purity of characterful Weskus Chenin Blanc fruit sourced from the unique Koekenaap coastal vineyards located about five kilometres from the cold Atlantic ocean on well drained Sandstone soils. This latest release shows a wonderfully complex aromatics of taut lime peel, freshly grated green apple, white blossom, apricot pip, fresh fennel leaf, and a subtle hint of under ripe green pears. The evolution of the Crayfish style is most evident in the way Sakkie has learnt to tame the Weskus briney maritime rock salt salinity and integrate it into a more complete, classy, layered expression while retaining plenty of liquid minerality and the kelpy, nori seaweed nuances. The larger format 500 litre oak barrels also seem to bring out the very best characteristics of the Chenin Blanc fruit, exposing a more glycerol, textured mid-palate packed full of pithy lime peel, white peaches, and savoury apple notes. This wine is not only one of Sakkie’s finest whites bottled to date, but also one of the most delicious and mouthwatering whites I have drunk all year. My admiration for this young winemaker grows with every subsequent vintage release! Well done Sakkie. Drink on release and over the next 8 to 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Sakkie Mouton wines are imported into the UK by South African fine wine specialist Museum Wines and are available strictly subject to allocation for circa £39 per bottle.

Another Exceptional Benchmark Old Vine Chenin Blanc from Sakkie Mouton – Revisiting His Fifth Release of the Revenge of the Crayfish 2022…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 4 Comments

With all eyes on Sakkie Mouton Family Wines again as he prepares to launch his fabled 2023 Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin Blanc, I thought I would recalibrate my taste buds in preparation with a bottle of his excellent 2022 release. Like all intuitive winemakers, Sakkie has slowly been evolving his winemaking style with every passing vintage, tweaking the oak regime, varying the amount of skin contact, experimenting with more or less lees stirring during elevage, etc… all in the quest to make more complex and exciting wines.

With the 2022 vintage, we see a number of these factors coming together to reveal themselves in the form of a very serious, mature minded expression of Wes Kus Chenin Blanc from Koekenaap.

Sakkie Mouton Family Wines Revenge of the Crayfish 2022 Chenin Blanc, WO Koekenaap, 13.84% Abv.

2.3g/l RS | 7.2g/l TA | 3.15pH

The most recent vintages from Sakkie Mouton have shown his growing winemaking prowess and confidence and this new 2022 Chenin Blanc is no exception. The aromatics are loaded with poached pears, green apple, freshly squeezed lime peel, tangerine over deliciously saline, maritime notes of nori seaweed, kelp, rock salt and crunchy white peach. As always, the palate is fabulously taut and nervy with layer upon layer of liquid minerality, sea breeze, brine, white citrus and Granny Smith apples. But it has been Sakkie Mouton’s ability to conjure up greater mid-palate flesh and textural depth through his evolving handling of skin and lees contact which acts to broaden the mouthfeel and remove any more harder malic edges associated with earlier picked fruit. This new release is a absolute triumph of west coast winemaking! Drink on release after a decent decanting and enjoy comfortably over the next 10 to 12+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Sakkie Mouton Family Wines are available in the UK on allocation from South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.

The Beginning of a New Era for Lievland Vineyards – Tasting and Assessing Some of their Latest Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The previous Lievland Wine Estate can certainly be counted as one of the grand old Cape brands of the 1980s and 1990s and I can confirm that I certainly drank my fair share of their famous value red blend, the Lievlander, as well as plenty of their Shiraz and their delicious DVB Cape Bordeaux Blend. In 2017, it was announced that MAN Family Wines had acquired the 110 hectare estate with ambitious plans to build a new cellar facility and also slowly replant some of the 60 hectares under vine.

Lying on much respected Simonsberg Stellenbosch terroir, immediate neighbours are Natte Valleij, Warwick, the old Uitkyk, Kanonkop and Le Bonheur. I recently caught up in London with their head winemaker, Riaan Möller, to taste through a current selection of the Lievland Vineyards wines.

Lievland Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2022, WO Elgin, 13% Abv.

Deliciously exotic aromatics with peach skins, apricot, gooseberry, melon and green apple pastille. 100% stainless steel fermented with several inoculated yeast strains. From Sandstone soil vineyards, south facing, the grapes yield deliciously cool crystalline fruits boasting white peach, green pear, white pepper, rocket leaf and hints of lychee. Sleek, vibrant and wonderfully energetic with a really youthful vivacity and a delicate tropical kiss on the finish. A delicious cool climate expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lievland Vineyards Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Paarl, 13% Abv.

Made from a Certified Heritage Vineyard planted between 1977 and 1987 from Agter-Paarl with the use of up to 30% barrel fermented portion. The aromatics show a fruity candied opulence with notes of smoky straw, fynbos, peach rock candy and hints of green pear. The palate is rich and expressive with mouth watering layers of spicy white peach, greengage, green apple and hints of fig preserve on the long, persistent, textured finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lievland Vineyards Liefkoos Shiraz / Mourvedre / Cinsault Rose 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 12.5% Abv.

An attractive pale salmon colour, the wine shows bright dusty chalky aromatics packed full of pear drops, crushed granite, crushed red cherry and crunchy wild strawberry fruits. The palate is cool, sleek and very precise with a delicious weightless concentration, lovely purity, mineral pithiness and impressive length. One for the lovers of Provençal Rose.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lievland Vineyards Bush Vine Pinotage 2021, WO Paarl, 13.5% Abv.

From a vineyard on the westerly slopes of Paarl mountain planted in 2000/1 with a small 5% addition of Grenache. Only a small amount of new large oak is used (15%) and mostly multi-passage 225 and 300 litre used barrels. Packed full of vibrancy and freshness with notes of bramble berry, forest fruits, tilled earth, black plum and hints of red apple. Super polished and sleek, the texture is silky, elegant and delicately exotic with lovely purple rock candy, Parma violets and a mouthwatering Fanta Grape-flavoured allure. The finish is bone dry, spicy and mineral with real balance and length. A very individual expression of Pinotage, but undoubtedly delicious.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lievland Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Cape Coast, 14% Abv.

High altitude fruit from the Helderberg and Agter-Paarl, makes for a very classy Cabernet Sauvignon with a sneaky 5% Cinsault, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc blended in. The aromatics show sweet red berry, red plum, red currant, raisined cranberries, cassis, tilled earth and delicate notes of sweet tobacco and tannery leather. On the palate the soft, seductive silky layers dominate, revealing a very fine textured, compact mouthfeel. A very impressive wine with great complexity, lovely granitic minerality and a delicate salinity on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lievland Vineyards Heart’s Ease Syrah 2019, WO Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

Fruit from original vineyards on the farm planted 2001. 86% Syrah and 14% Mourvedre with 20% whole bunches, were fermented and aged 100% for 16 months in mostly used neutral 225 litre barrels with a 15% new French oak portion. The aromatics are lush and seductive with blueberry, black cherry, tart plum and subtle hints of dried herbs, cumin and peppercorns. Wonderfully pure, delicate and elegantly fresh, this is a very classy, considered, light touch Syrah made with real attention to detail. The finish is intense and focused with a fine weightless concentration.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Lievland Vineyard wines are imported into the UK by Berkmann Wines.

Another Two Exceptional Alheit Vineyards Wines Released – Tasting the Cartology and Hereafer Here Chenin Blanc 2022s…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Since the maiden vintage of the Alheit’s Cartology white blend in 2011, the Alheit’s philosophy of old vines and special pockets of Cape terroir has seen them produce ever more critically acclaimed wines from all around the Cape. With the 2022 vintage of the Hereafter Here 100% Chenin Blanc from notable parcels in the Swartland, Upper Blaauwklippen, Polkadraai, and Paardeberg, and the Cartology 92% Chenin Blanc, 8% Sémillon blend from old vine Chenin vineyards from the Skurfberg, Malmesbury, Perdeberg, Bottelary, Upper Blaauwklippen, False Bay, Tygerberg, and the third oldest Sémillon block in South Africa, La Colline in Franschhoek, planted in 1936 (two older blocks being planted 1902 at Eikehof and 1905 at Landau du Val).

These two wines offer up some of the most critically acclaimed South African white wines from arguably one of the most celebrated South African winemakers after Eben Sadie (though Chris and Suzanne Alheit only trail him by a few years age wise). They have since made their home on the farm, Hemelrand (Heaven’s Edge) on the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge and have mentored some of SA’s top winemaking talent in the form of Franco Lourens, previously assistant winemaker and now full-time winemaker and owner of Lourens Family Wines.

While collectors and connoisseurs have long since chased allocations of Chris’s top single site Chenin Blanc wines like Magnetic North and Huilkrans, the heightened quality, focus and precision on the Cartology vineyard blend specifically has been notable in recent years. Both the Cartology and Hereafter Here cuvees are now almost as tightly allocated as the single vineyard cuvees, so drinkers and collectors should definitely not overlook these wines when buying benchmark Chenin Blanc whites from South Africa.

Alheit Vineyards Hereafter Here Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Western Cape, 13% Abv.

Made from a mixture of young and older vines aged between 5 and 40 years old, after 18 months of elevage with 66% aged on its fine lees, the complex aromatics reveal a rich leesy, savoury yellow fruited nose with pithy white citrus, peach stone, bitter almonds, dried herbs, orange blossom and hints of lemon oil. Rich but not too overtly “fruity”, the palate is plush, harmonious and textural with hints of honeydew melon, lemon pastille, white peach and savoury leesy biscuit hints. Really quite serious, and seriously delicious! Drink now and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Alheit Vineyards Cartology 2022, WO Western Cape, 13% Abv.

This flagship blend from Chris Alheit is made from 92% Chenin Blanc and 8% Semillon grapes sourced from eight disparate old vine vineyards of between 40 and 60 years old. The youthful aromatics display a melange of granitic minerality over notes of peach, tangerine, orange oil and wet hay nuances. The 2022 is beautifully cool, harmonious and overtly mineral-led with dusty dried herbs, white peach, green pear and yellow stone fruits. The acids are gentle, soft spoken but deliciously tangy and the finish creamy, leesy and delightfully mouth-coating with and impressively persistent length. Yet another superb Cartology release from Chris ‘Butch’ Alheit. Drink now and over the next 10 to 12+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Cartology 2022 is priced at circa £34.99 and the Hereafter Here 2022 at £26.99 inc. Both wines are available from specialist South African merchant Museum Wines.

Tasting a South African Unicorn Wine for Christmas – Reviewing the Maiden Release Sadie Family Wines Mrs Kirsten 2006 Old Vine Series Chenin Blanc…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Few white wines produced in South Africa evoke as much emotion and mystery as the Sadie Family Wines maiden release Old Vine Series Mrs Kirsten 2006 Chenin Blanc, made from the oldest surviving Chenin Blanc vineyard still in the ground in South Africa, located in the Jonkershoek Valley in Stellenbosch.

The story of how this very special Sadie wine joined the range is best explained by the man himself, Eben Sadie…

”One day I was visiting a friend of mine in Stellenbosch, Carlo Suter, who is a farmer, oenologist and cabinet maker. And also someone practising bio – dynamic viticulture. During the visit we went for a walk on the property and we walked past this block of very old and very neglected Chenin Blanc. On asking him about the parcel of vines , he told us that it belonged to a Mrs. Kirsten, aged about 85 and that she was not farming the vines anymore.”

Eben Sadie overseeing his new cellar construction.

“The reality was a lot of very obvious potential in the parcel, for one, the very fact that the block was older than Mrs. Kirsten… and secondly, it having been planted on a very special site. Then the idea came to mind to approach her and ask if we may lease the vineyard and take care of it. From there onwards, we have been taking very special care of this vineyard, firstly by pruning out all the dead arms of the vines (years of them), and secondly by ploughing the soils and converting the vineyard back to organic farming.”

A modern vintage of the Mev. Kirsten Chenin Blanc (Afrikaans for Mrs Kirsten)

“Since 2006 we have been producing about 300 bottles annually out of one hectare of vines, which relates back to a very uneconomical 3 hl/ha yield, but the concept of such a project is rather to finance a vineyard in a world driven by profitability and return. It is a vineyard that has given more to us than numbers and has resulted in the production of a uniquely different and individual wine.”

Vinification involves the sorting of each individual berry for the entire production in small “strawberry” cases. The grapes are de-stemmed and fermented on their skins for about two days at low temperatures and then pressed in an old basket press and the juice run off directly into barrel without settling. Natural fermentation continues in tight grained French oak, the oldest barrel at any stage in the cellar being at least 10 years of age, insuring they impart zero oak influence to the taste.

The aging takes place for 12 months on the lees and then the wine was racked. An additional six months of aging on the fine lees took place afterwards. Total time spent in oak was 18 months. Total production for 2006 was a meagre 283 bottles.

Sadie Family Wines Mrs Kirsten Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2006, 13.65% Abv.

1.8g/l RS | 6.2g/l TA | 3.45pH

A beautifully rich old gold, old honey Sauternes-style copper / bronze colour. A slight disconnect between colour and taste, this bottle is in perfect condition with the aromatics tightly concertina’ed, slowly unwinding to reveal aromatics of apricot compote, nutty yellow orchard fruits, nectarine, salted toffee, crystallised ginger, caramelised fig and savoury notes of damp leaves and wet moss. You get a sense that this wine has a lot to offer, with a slow reveal in play. The palate is intricately spicy and pithy with layers of peach stone fruits, quince and savoury notes of mealy warm peach crumble with hints of vanilla pod spice. A beautifully textured wine with fine grained, phenolic, spicy tannins and a cool, pithy, spicy ginger infused yellow fruited length with an enticing salinity on the finish. A fascinating expression of Chenin Blanc and undoubtedly an iconic unicorn wine of note!

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Alheit Vineyards Huilkrans Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022 Shows All the Markings of a Legendary Wine in the Making…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

In the fine wine world, it is certainly very rare for any new producer to achieve cult status almost immediately, but Chris and Suzaan Alheit’s first vintage of Cartology in 2011 brought them unexpected fame almost over night after Neal Martin bestowed this now legendary wine with a 96/100 point score. Ever since this maiden release, Alheit Vineyards has continued to become one of the most tightly allocated and highly sought-after South African wine names on the international market.

Situated 5 hours drive from their own cellar in the Hemel-en-Aarde, the dry farmed old bushvines growing on red sand over red clay produce wines marked by bristling acidity and clarity of flavour, earthy minerality and natural power. “Every vintage reaffirms the extraordinary properties of this landscape,” says Chris Alheit. The Skurfberg vineyard area is now cemented as one of the Cape’s most extraordinary winegrowing areas and Chris works with two farms here: The ungrafted Chenin Blanc bushvines growing at 540 metres above sea-level on Arbeidseind farm producing the wine called Magnetic North. The Oudam farm is close by, a little lower down at 450 metres above sea-level, and produces Huilkrans. Both farms also contribute Chenin Blanc grapes to Alheit’s Cartology white blend.

Alheit Vineyards Huilkrans Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Citrusdal Mountain, Olifants Rivier, 13% Abv.

Made from 35 to 55 year old vines planted on deep orange sand over gravel and clay yields a profound expression of Chenin Blanc displaying complex notes of wet slate minerality, salted nectarines, white peach, dried herbs, fresh hay and smoky fynbos hints. This is a very serious white wine with an imposing presence, where the glycerol palate whispers sublime class. The palate depth and breadth is simply astounding, reassuringly rich and tangy with all the freshness and tension you’d expect with a beguiling intensity and length of pear purée and Poire William nuances. Tantalisingly austere and saline with fruit reserve, a mineral focus with a spicy, wet river pebble liquid minerality, the texture is dream-like, silky, sultry, and elegantly persistent. A Grand Cru wine in every sense of the word! A real stunner. Drink from release and over the next 20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Alheit Vineyard wines are imported into the UK by merchant Dreyfus Ashby, where the wines are available on strict allocations to trade.

Mullineux Wines Release a Trio of 2021 Single Terroir Syrahs That Could Redefine a New Level of Quality in the Swartland…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Mullineux Wines run by Chris and Andrea Mullineux is one of the most respected quality producers in South Africa as further evidenced by their recent inclusion in the Top 5 Wineries of South Africa poll conducted by Winemag.co.za. With their Signature red and white range only released onto the market as recently as 2008, and their Single Terroir Series wines first released in 2010, they have wasted little time in elevating their wines to some of the most sought-after in the Swartland and the Western Cape.

With Andrea Mullineux in London recently, I caught up with her over lunch to taste what she considers are her finest expressions of Mullineux Syrahs to date. With the Swartland experiencing a very long, cool, atypical vintage, I was intrigued to see what all the hype was about.

Mullineux Single Terroir Syrah 2021s:

Mullineux Granite Jakkalsfontein Syrah 2021, 13.5% Abv.

2.2g/l RS | 5.7g/l TA | 3.70pH

Beautifully taut and tight knit with pinpoint aromatics of crushed granite, gravel, delicate violet and lily perfume, juniper berries and subtle broody black berry fruit notes. The minerality and sappy herbal spices bristle in the glass with an incredibly fine-grained palate with delicately drying, chalky, satin textured tannins that will ultimately come to define this incredible vintage and its astounding weightless focus, dry extract power, cool freshness and seductive finesse. This is a truly exceptional, awe inspiring creation that pushes new quality boundaries for tannin management and palate precision. Drink from 2024 to 2044+.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2021, 13.5% Abv.

2.5g/l RS | 5.5g/l TA | 3.78pH

This beautiful Schist vintage is a real stunner, a gorgeous head turner that oozes quality, confidence and class. Deep, dark and multi-layered, the aromatics boasts complex notes of pressed pink blossoms, Parma violet candies, creme de cassis and saline black berry with delicate notes of cigar ash, graphite, and a concertinaed liquid mineral spice. Fabulously deep, tightly wound, and tight knit at its core but still incredibly, displays its own stylish opulence, expressive character and generosity without compromising the delicately dry tannin extract intensity on the finish. A beautifully spellbinding, seductive expression of Syrah that is sure to take on new dimensions of textural and flavour complexity with extra time in bottle. Drink from 2024 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Kasteelsig Syrah 2021, 13.5% Abv.

1.8g/l RS | 5.5g/l TA | 3.80pH

Another incredibly intense, densely textured, finely crafted wine displaying a uniquely individual terroir personality of damp earth and iron from the koffeeklip soils, black liquorice and black olive tapenade with saline cassis and black berry, graphite and oyster shell nuances. The beauty and precision on the palate is spectacular and this is where you really get to witness the compact, dry extract density of the Iron vineyard combined with the cool, intense, highly finessed tannin structure of the 2021 vintage. This is a simply sublime composition of classical terroir-driven Syrah that really stops you in your tracts with its utter majesty and poise. Possibly the finest Iron Syrah produced since 2010. Drink from 2024 until 2044+.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Mullineux wines are imported into the UK by Liberty Wines and available retail from South African fine wine specialist Museum Wines.

Naude Family Wines Releases Their Most Eye-Catching Chenin Blanc Yet – Tasting the Harmonious But Intense Old Vine Stellenbosch 2021…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The more wines I taste from 2021 in the Cape, the more I believe that this is truly one of the greatest vintages in South Africa’s modern history. For so many producers from so many diverse regions, from the Swartland to Stellenbosch, Elgin to the Hemel-en-Aarde, Paarl to the Klein Karoo, simply everyone seems to have made some exceptional white and red wines in this vintage. But the real clincher is when you talk to the winemakers themselves, whether they are the owners of their businesses and brands or merely working a day job, they all tell you that they don’t think they will make another vintage quite like 2021s in their careers, then you know that they certainly feel the conditions were not only unusual but also exceptional.

For Ian Naude, known to switch between Old Vine vineyards from year to year, he unusually decided to make not only his 2020 Chenin Blanc from this Old Vine Stellenbosch vineyard near the Blaauklippen Estate, but also decided to use this vineyard to make his 2021 vintage in this unusually cool growing season that saw a cold and wet climate with winter rainfall from May to June consistently above average. Cooler conditions significantly impacted the ripening process by slowing down the first half of the harvest before warmer conditions returned towards the end of harvest. In general, ripening was delayed by around 10 to 14 days compared to 2020, most notably among white cultivars, which displayed exceptionally low pH levels and high, bracing acids combined with low alcohols – a Naude wine lovers dream vintage?

With so much recent attention focused on Ian’s escapades up the Wes Kus with his Old Vine Langpad Colombard and his exceptional new Soutbos Old Vine Chenin Blanc / Colombard white blend, one can be forgiven for forgetting that Ian cemented much of his eminent white wine reputation with his maiden Naude Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2013, which still remains to this day, an iconic wine in the annals of Cape winemaking history. This phenomenal new 2021 could very well equal or surpass the heights of the 2013 given half a chance.

Naude Family Wines Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 12% Abv.

1.82g/l RS | 6.03g/l TA | 3.39pH

Few new wine releases from Ian Naude have created as much excitement as the new Old Vine Chenin Blanc from the 2021 vintage. Already being lauded as one of the most exceptional white and red wine vintages in South Africa in the past 20+ years, this delicious new white does not compromise this notion in any way. First tasted pre-release in March 2023, the wine was a little shy and retiring, giving mere hints of its ultra fine purity, tightly wound structure, its taut acid tension and glimmers of its incredibly harmonious, crystalline fruit concentration. This unusually cool and long vintage has allowed the vines to produce some pristine Chenin Blanc fruit that is undoubtedly sprinkled with more than a pinch of magic dust, boasting incredibly attractive aromatics of pear puree, white peach, crunchy Granny Smith apples, with dried hay, delicate dried baking herbs and an undeniable wet granite minerality. But it is on the palate where the true fireworks ignite, being packed full of piercing tart yellow peach, sour plum, quince and zesty green apple fruit concentration, all wrapped up in a tightly wound but subtle, nervy core of energy so powerful and intense it could be mainlined directly into the Cape Town power grid! Like all truly great wines, the 2021 achieves all its intensity and commanding focus with a supremely unobtrusive elegance, crystalline purity and harmonious synchronicity making this one of Ian’s greatest Chenin Blanc releases to date. Drink now and over the next 15 to 20 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ian Naude Breaks New Ground With His First Old Vine White Blend Since 2010 – Tasting His Exciting New Soutbos 2023 White West Coast Blend…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

One could argue that Ian Naude is a sucker for punishment. Though, he would probably blame Rosa Kruger or perhaps his friend and fellow winemaker Sakkie Mouton for many of his recent wine adventures, but every time he is introduced to a new Old Vine vineyard, you can practically hear the cogs turning, the bells ringing and the whistles tweeting in his head. He swore he was done with white blends after his last expression was bottled in 2010. But sometimes, when you inadvertently discover an incredibly exciting synergy or harmonious partnership like the one that exits between Old Vine Chenin Blanc and Colombard, all bets are off.

I travelled up the West Coast with Ian Naude in October 2022, the beginning of the 2023 vintage, and saw some of the incredibly exciting Old Vine Chenin Blanc and Colombard vineyards that inspired Ian on his new white blend journey. Even I wanted to buy some of these grapes and start making wine again!

Old Vine Chenin Blanc in Vredendal

Very old, gracefully gnarled and outstandingly beautiful, the vineyards of Vredendal and Koekenaap are finally receiving the adoration they have missed out on for the past 30 years. Ian’s new white blend is yet another celebration of this incredibly characterful, austere, coastal terroir.

Naude Family Wines Soutbos White Blend 2023, WO Western Cape, 12% Abv.

1.76g/l RS | 6.07g/l TA | 3.44pH

This stunning new white blend from Naude Family Wines represents the culmination of many years of work Ian Naude has spent constructing and perfecting intricate, complex and age worthy white blends. More latterly, Ian has built an iconic reputation for some of the most eye-catching Old Vine Chenin Blancs produced in South Africa before moving his attention to championing Old Vine Colombard vineyards up the West Coast. This new white draws on all Ian’s experience and expertise to assemble an incredibly fresh, tight knit, minerally driven white wine. A blend of 83% Chenin Blanc from a vineyard planted in 1988 and 17% Colombard from a vineyard planted in 1985, has seen Ian create his first new white blend since 2010 from these two noble West Coast Vredendal vineyards.

Crystalline and fresh in the glass, the aromatics show incredibly subtle notes of lemon peel zest, grapefruit, white peach, honeydew melon and Granny Smith apples with underlying hints of dried guava roll, sweet herbs and cream soda rock candy. Fresh, intense and mouth coating, this is an intriguing white blend that combines the vibrancy and exuberance of Old Vine Colombard with the more herbal, mineral and textural aspects of Chenin Blanc. Undoubtedly, the standout features remain the incredible balance, seamless texture and maritime kelpy salinity. Like all of Ian’s red and white wines, his attention to detail is simply extraordinary, marking this white blend as one of the most exciting and thought-provoking new releases on the South African white wine landscape since possibly the launch of Eben Sadie’s Old Vine Skerpioen. Drink and enjoy its freshness on release and revisit over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Naudé Wines are imported into the UK exclusively by specialist South African merchant Museum Wines.

The Rising Greatness of the Brookdale Estate in Paarl is Amplified by their Impressive new Mason Road 2022 Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

They often say the true measure of the greatness of any winery is made by assessing how good their entry level wines are every year. The Brookdale Estate in Paarl is undoubtedly a grand venture and already owner Tim Rudd has spared no expense trying to elevate the estate’s wines to the highest level possible in the shortest amount of time possible. Ambitious indeed. However, with most of the original estate’s vines having been grubbed up after purchase out of necessity, the time scale for producing the full envisaged Brookdale Estate flagship wine range has inevitably been lengthened considerably.

But every cloud has a silver lining and in the case of all the younger vine fruit coming from the new plantings, Brookdale Estate have established a very impressive entry level range… (if you can call £15 – £16 wines entry level?). But with other similarly ambitious larger scale South African wine brands like Adi Badenhorst’s Secateurs range now hitting the shelves at a similar price level, the Mason Road range from Brookdale can only be viewed as well priced considering the plaudits the whites and reds have already garnered over the past 2 years. I recently tasted through the Mason Road 2022 new releases and was suitably impressed.

The 2022 vintage will be remembered as a cool season before harvest, followed by a sudden temperature spike from January. Good vineyard practices were followed, and canopies were managed well, which delivered exceptional grape analyses and wine quality. Temperatures rose sharply during early January and accelerated the early cultivars’ ripening dates, although Brookdale harvested more than a week later than in 2021. Frequent high temperatures during February further contributed to harvest dates shifting sooner and harvesting returned to normal timing by the end of February. Brookdale were fortunate not to experience any crop losses or mildew infections leading into harvest.

Brookdale Estate Mason Road Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Paarl, 13.56% Abv.

2.2g/l RS | 5.8g/l TA | 3.43pH

From a 30-year-old Chenin Blanc vineyard planted in 1993 that was picked in four separate batches at differing degrees of ripeness, has allowed winemaker Kiara Scott to create a wine with incredible depth and presence for the price. We can all name a few budget Chenin Blanc brands in South Africa, but the Mason Road has continued to impress from day one making it an incredibly savvy purchase. The 2022 shows complex aromatics of dusty dry stable hay, fynbos, pineapple pastille, lemon cordial, white citrus and a stony granitic crushed rock minerality. Classic old vine Paarl Chenin Blanc traditionally boasts rich exotic layers of peach and pineapple fruit on the palate and this vintage is positively brimming with a tangy sweet and sour concentration, bright mouth-watering acids and a long, intense, crystalline limey finish that is both salty and tart with a pleasing glycerol gloss. Simply put, this wine performs in a manner more akin to super premium expressions of Chenin Blanc from the Cape making it something very special indeed. Drink on release and over the 5 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Brookdale Estate Mason Road Serendipity Rosé 2022, WO Paarl, 12.91% Abv.

3.2g/l RS | 5/6g/l TA | 3.42pH

This is a delightful coppery salmon pink Provencal-styled Rosé made from Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah with exotic and enticing aromatics of fraise de bois wild strawberries, dried apricots, hibiscus and subtle watermelon nuances over dried herbs, fynbos and a delicate granitic minerality. The palate is cool, crisp and classical but fabulously intense and evocative with a vibrant tangy sweet-sour acidity of blood oranges, raspberries, lime cordial and sour cherries before an energetic but incredibly precise, pristine crystalline finish. An instantly attractive Rosé that looks set to continue building its growing cult following internationally. Drink on release and over 2 to 3 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Brookdale Estate Mason Road Syrah 2022, WO Paarl, 14.56% Abv.

2.6g/l RS | 5.1g/l TA | 3.66pH

This is another impressive Mason Road Syrah release that aims for the stars and comes pretty close to hitting the bullseye! With a small percentage of the Syrah grapes fermented whole bunch without destalking, the nose reveals a complex array of aromatics led by sweet cherry kirsch liquor notes, hints of sweet coriander laced with red peppercorns, cured meats, bresaola, sappy vanilla wood spice and an undertone of salty crème de cassis. The palate is delightfully supple and fleshy showing an impressive density and textural breadth, while always remaining incredibly harmonious and balanced. The juicy acids add a fine tangy, mouthwatering frame from which delicious layers of black berry, bramble berry and spicy plum fruits are proffered for your palate pleasure, before the savoury finishing finale. A simply wonderful expression of Syrah offering sophistication, value for money and incredible drinkability.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Brookdale Estate Mason Road GSM 2022, WO Paarl, 14.68% Abv.

2.4g/l RS | 5.0g/l TA | 3.60pH

Despite the cooler vintage conditions running into the pre-harvest period in January 2022, warmer temperatures from February onwards have ensured a deliciously ripe and opulent red boasting exotic aromatics of crushed sour cherries, Parma violets, burnt bushveld, ripe cranberries, salty red liquorice and a broader inviting melange of summer berries. This really is a fabulously complex maiden release focusing on Grenache and Syrah grapes that were separately whole bunch fermented before a short maceration and then further ageing in 500 and 300 litre barrels. The energy and vibrancy revealed on the nose follow succinctly to the palate that’s packed full of spicy, peppery black currant fruit, tart bright tangy acids and a silky soft fine-grained finish showing a subtle kiss of salted caramel. I’m not sure how much more wine drinking enjoyment you can pack into a bottle!? Drink on release and over the next 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Brookdale Estate and Mason Road ranges are imported exclusively into the UK by South African fine wine specialist merchant Museum Wines.

http://www.museumwines.co.uk