The Avignonesi Estate – A Beacon of Quality Wine in Tuscany’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Appellation…

December 24, 2024December 24, 2024 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The revolution in premium wine quality that has occurred in Italy over the past three decades must surely count as one of the wider wine success stories on a continent that has generally witnessed decreasing consumption. From Piedmont to Tuscany to Puglia, no region was left untouched by the wave of new quality wine production. Tuscany certainly grabbed its fair share of the wine headlines with Chianti Classico, Bolgheri and Montalcino leading the charge. But another great homeland of Sangiovese somehow seemed to miss out on a similar amount of fame, namely Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – and no estate in the region is more famous for their winemaking achievements over the past 15+ years than the Avignonesi Estate.

Situated in the hills of Tuscany on the edge of Montepulciano near Cortona, Avignonesi became synonymous with quality wine making as far back as the 1970s, but it was only when the estate passed into the hands of the Belgian industrialist Virginie Saverys in 2008 that the developments we now see in the estate’s vineyards and in the Avignonesi wines themselves became clear. Much of this change has focused on the vineyards, with conversion to biodynamic agriculture and organic production being the spearhead that has allowed the wines to not only soar in quality, but in a way that is true to the vineyards and terroir from which the grapes are sourced.

Avignonesi is now considered a Sangiovese specialist, but they have also dedicated much effort to promote other native red and white indigenous varieties from the region, in many instances as a quality assurance in the face of global climate change. With the organic and biodynamic vineyard practices carried into the winery, owner Virginie has sought to not only allow the wines to benefit qualitatively but also the wider Avignonesi worker community.

My last visit to the estate was way back in May 2018, when I spent several days walking the vineyards, visiting and tasting at the winery and soaking up the wider Tuscan culture of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Similarly, Virginie Saverys’ journey to winery ownership began when she visited Tuscany and fell in love with the place and its wines. In 2007, she purchased 20% of Avignonesi (established in 1974) and in 2009, the two brothers who owned the winery, sold it to her in its entirety. Virginie Saverys came to winery ownership first and foremost as a wine consumer, not as a winemaker, but she did spend two years in Bordeaux immersed in vineyards and winemaking to prepare herself for winery ownership. Her background is in law and Virginie brings her lawyerly attention to every detail at Avignonesi.

Under Virginie’s tenure, Avignonesi has eliminated the use of all herbicides and pesticides in the vineyards which were certified Organic in 2016 and Biodynamic in 2019. Of the 174 hectares under vine, 99 hectares are planted to Sangiovese and fermentations only use naturally occurring yeasts, with Avignonesi’s wines now also Vegan certified. There is a genuine and meaningful commitment to the land and local natural environment and accordingly to my knowledge, Avignonesi remains the largest fully biodynamic certified estate in Europe.

I recently caught up with their brand ambassador in London and took the opportunity to refresh my Avignonesi tasting notes with a selection of their current releases, all available in the UK through Andrew Johnson at Woodwinters.

Avignonesi Da.Di Bianco 2023, IGT Toscana Bianco, 13.5% Abv.

A honey bronze yellow colour, this 2023 blend is circa 50% Orpicchio, 19% Grechetto, 12% Vermentino, and a co-fermentation of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Rich and juicy on the nose, the aromatics are full of yellow orchard fruits, melted honey on toast, with complexing hints of lychee, potpourri, and lemon herbal tea nuances. The palate is medium to full bodied, beautifully vibrant and tangy with zesty acids, a concentrated lemon and herbal white peach depth, finishing with a pithy, mouthwatering Golden Delicious appley length. Drink now to 2028+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Da.Di Rosso Biologico 2022, IGT Toscana, 13% Abv.

Another exciting expression from the Avignonesi estate that circumvents the use of stainless steel and oak barrels in favour of Tuscan clay amphorae, hence the name Da-Di was chosen, meaning “earth, soil” in Chinese. Vinified in 13 terracotta vessels made in Tuscany – 8 manufactured by Artenova in Impruneta, and 5 were manufactured by Laboratorio San Rocco in Torrita di Siena using clay from the famous Mount Amiata. An exotic blend of indigenous Tuscan varieties including 28,04% Canaiolo, 27,08% Sangiovese, 23,51% Mammolo, 15,67% Alicante, and 5,7% Ciliegiolo, the 2022 is initially slightly broody and closed on the nose as is common with Amphorae wines, but after a little air, the wine simply blossoms into an energetic expression showing bright perfumed aromatics of violets and star anise, red currants and crushed raspberries with an intricate basaltic minerality interwoven into the fabric of the wine. The texture is medium bodied but deliciously inviting, layered with chalky mineral tannins, red and black berry fruits, hints of dried baking spices and raspberry coulis, finishing with an energetically fresh, tangy bright acidity that makes the palate salivate and invites another sip. A pretty style of wine that trades on subtlety, elegance and freshness instead of overt power. Drink on release and over 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vintage Release 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

Produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes sourced from bush vine vineyards planted between 1995 and 2017, the wine was aged for 18 months in mainly Slavonian oak casks as well as some French oak barriques and tonneaux. From a warm dry vintage, the nose reveals a seductive fragrance of ripe red cherries, sun raisined cranberries and ripe pomegranate with delicate hints of sweet sandal wood and vanilla pod spice. The palate is incredibly harmonious and inviting, with sweet fleshy Sangiovese red and black berry fruit notes coating the palate with yet more red cherry, plum compote, and subtle earthy red currant nuances. The wine shows beautifully supple tannins that are fine grained and gently mineral and drying, supported by incredibly well integrated tangy, vibrant acids. This is a wine that displays the most friendly and attractive personality of Sangiovese from Montepulciano with accessibility, precision, and elegance. Simply delicious. Drink on release and over 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vintage Release 2014, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

As always, a 100% Sangiovese cuvee from Vino Nobile coming from a more challenging vintage, this archive release was introduced to market just as it was starting to reach its prime drinking window. A cool, subtle vintage handled with great care, the aromatics show a delicate tertiary complexity of soft black liquorice, sun raisined black berry, tilled earth, sweet Christmas spices and subtle herbal wood spice notions. Beautifully sleek and supple in the mouth, the palate reveals macerated black plums, salty liquorice, and earthy black currant wrapped in super fine-grained tannins with a sleek integrated acidity. Maturing beautifully so far, this wine might just be a sommelier’s dream ticket with its beautiful approachability. Drink now and over the next 5-8 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

Another terrific pure Sangiovese that shows a deliciously expressive aromatics of warm black berry compote, earthy red currants, mulberries, melted tar, and damson plum. Broody and dark fruited, on the palate the wine comes alive boasting a silky, spicy black fruited depth, sour plum, pithy black cherry and hoisin plum sauce nuances. Silky, soft and fleshy, there is a great approachability and generosity to the fruit but also a fine, noble mineral restraint. This is a top-drawer Vino Nobile with fruit harmony, a spicy complexity and great persistence on the finish. This is exactly what consumers want from this famous region!

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Desiderio Merlot 2020, IGT Toscana, 14.5% Abv.

Pure Merlot’s premium reputation in Tuscany precedes it with multiple distinguished examples earning a lot of friends around the world. While some can be rather sweet and plummy, this pretty Avignonesi expression shows an attractive aromatics of black cherries, black currant, and inky blue berries with delicate notions of salted caramel and vanilla pod oak spice. The texture is taut and chiselled, with a defined linearity and steely acid frame adding to a fine boned mineral skeletal frame that support the ample stewed black berry, black plum and mulberry fruits. This is a serious, stern, contemplative, age worthy Merlot expression with a wonderfully stony minerality, pronounced graphite nuances, and a polished pithy blueberry finish. Drink from now until 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi & Capannelle 50&50 2019, IGT Toscana, 14% Abv.

First created in 1988 as a joint venture between friends, this 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot blend speaks of the friendship and enjoyment that sharing great bottles of wine brings into peoples’ lives. The aromatics are enticingly deep and broody, tightly packed with layers of red and black berry fruits, sweet earthy black currant, hints of mulberry and an attractive freshly baked black cherry pie nuance. The palate shows a precise, linear, mouth-watering acidity that lends extra structural ballast to the polished marble tannins, that are draped in ripe savoury blue and black berry fruits with hints of stewed winter plums, sweet balsamic reduction, and dried baking spices. A confident wine that is effortlessly balanced yet harbours a deceptively powerful depth and breadth. Enjoy this punchy, concentrated expression now and over the next 5 to 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

A Brunello di Montalcino Vintage of Freshness and Finesse – Tasting the 2018 Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta New Releases…

March 30, 2023March 30, 2023 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta is one of Angelo Gaja’s two Tuscan properties, on the site of an old church, Santa Restituta, which dates back to the 4th century. As is the family’s style, theirs is a fusion of modern and traditional winemaking. Gaja also owns land on the Buonconvento Northern side of Montalcino and some prestigious lands in the South, a stone’s throw from Sesti in Argiano. The Northern sites normally all go into the Brunello di Montalcino ‘normale’ with Sugarille and Rennina, located around the winery on the Southern side of the town, being bottled individually as Crus. These three Brunellos from one of the finest names in Italian wine are always impeccably crafted and full of character and finesse.

In 2019, Gaja bought a five-hectare vineyard in the southwestern area of Montalcino at a higher altitude of 400 meters above sea level in the area of Bolsignano, followed in 2020 by an additional five-hectare plot of land acquired near the so-called Passo del Lume Spento at 630 meters in elevation in an attempt to mitigate potential global warming problems in the future. Drinkers and critics alike look forward to seeing how these new parcels will be incorporated into the wine range and what changes they may make to the current wine style and quality.

For now, we get to enjoy the new releases from the 2018 vintage, which considering it was a warm and dry year in Montalcino, has produced wines noted for their freshness, bright fruits and textural finesse. The 2018 Gaja Brunello is made up from a selection of grapes from the Rennina and Sugarille vineyards that are blended with those from Torrenieri, in the northeastern area of Montalcino. While the soil in Rennina and Sugarille is clay-calcareous with high amounts of galestro (the rocky, schistous clay soil), the ground in Torrenieri is a mixture of clay, silt, and sand. The grapes from the different vineyards were then fermented and macerated separately for around three weeks. After 24 months of ageing in oak, the wines were blended and then aged for another six months in concrete vats before bottling.

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino 2018 DOP, 14.5% Abv.

The 2018 vintage is certainly noted for its freshness, finesse and linearity and among the best producers, there was a small but tantalising array of top-class wines produced. This characterful Gaja Brunello di Montalcino displays an impressive aromatic complexity, textural elegance and savoury depth of fruit on the palate. On the nose the wine reveals expressive notes of crushed blueberries, savoury cured meats, freshly cut bresaola, chargrilled charcuterie, grilled herbs and roasted chestnuts over pithy red cherry, sun raisined cranberry and red liquorice nuances. The palate is initially taut, broody and slightly introspective but once given air starts to open up, fanning its peacock tail of flavours. The elegance and freshness on the palate eventually give way to more assertive characteristics of sweet black cherries, rosemary and thyme herbal hints, ripe black orchard stone fruits, an alluring salinity and gentle hints of balsamic and vanilla pod spice on the finish. This is an altogether cooler, more herbal, mineral expression that will undoubtedly enjoy an eager following among Brunello lovers and collectors. Drink now or cellar for another 8 to 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Releases One of the Stand-Out Brunello di Montalcino Wines of the 2016 Vintage…

February 24, 2021February 25, 2021 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta is one of Angelo Gaja’s two Tuscan properties, on the site of an old church, Santa Restituta, which dates back to the 4th century. As is the family’s style, their’s is a fusion of modern and traditional winemaking. They too own land on the Buonconvento Northern side of Montalcino and some prestigious lands in the South, a stone’s throw from Sesti. The Northern sites normally go into the Brunello di Montalcino with Sugarille and Rennina located around the winery on the Southern side of the town being bottled individually as Crus. These three Brunellos from one of the finest names in Italian wine are impeccably crafted and full of character, finesse and age ability.

The best 2016 Brunellos are truly complex and captivating wines characterised by deep ruby colours, pure and vivid aromas, with many showing powerful structures but also finesse and grace with lively freshness and ripe, muscular mineral tannins.

The 2016 season started slowly, with cool temperatures and frequent rains until June. The summer was mostly warm and dry (average temperature of 35 °C), a unique heavy and refreshing rainfall occurred in August. Strong diurnal temperature exchanges during the ripening period contributed, together with appropriate agronomical techniques, to a slow and even ripening of the grapes. The harvest (with an average temperature of 30 °C) started on September 14th and finished on October 6 th.

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino 2016 DOCG, 14% Abv.

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino normale is a fabulously plush, concentrated and intense expression of Brunello and represents probably the estate’s best vintage to date. The aromatics are perfumed and detailed showing cherry blossom, violets, vanilla oak spice and ripe dark layers of red and black berries, sweet cherry tobacco, cola and subtle red liquorice notes with just the faintest spearmint menthol top note. On the palate, the tannins are ripe but powerful with broad mouth-coating grip supported by pure cherry and cranberry fruit concentration, hints of balsamic, crystalline fresh acids and a wonderfully long harmonious finish. Distinguished and refined, but showing tremendous breadth, depth and structural power making this a perfect wine for medium to long-term cellaring. Drink from 2024 to 2036+

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fine Wine Safari Brunello di Montalcino 2015 Vintage Series: Part 4 – Valdicava…

April 27, 2020April 27, 2020 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The 2015 vintage is a historical year for Brunello di Montalcino that nobody should miss. The wines show impressive precision of vivid fruit, fine tannins and freshness in acidity despite their ripeness and richness which makes them some of the most exciting releases since 2010.

Winemakers in Montalcino were never better prepared to produce outstanding wines in a year like 2015 with their exactness in their vineyards and cellars from fine-tuned canopy management and crop thinning to optical sorting and soft fermentations. So many wine producers in Montalcino made excellent wines in 2015.

Tasting in very jovial circumstances with the Valdicava team.

A small handful of the wines I tasted are a little bit closed at this early stage, and these will benefit from more cellar ageing. However, the majority of the samples tasted showed softly textured, generous and accessible characteristics that make them beautiful to drink straight out of the gate or with very little aging required. Bottles from the versatile 2015 vintage can go into your cellar for safekeeping or onto your dinner table for near- to medium-term consumption. The choice is yours, and that’s one of the top selling points of 2015 Brunello reds.

The Riserva version of the Valdicava Brunello.

Valdicava – The Valdicava estate dates back to 1953 when Bramante Abbruzzese was offered the opportunity to return to the property in Montalcino where his ancestors were sharecroppers centuries before. From that time, Abbruzzese started the family vision to cultivate Sangiovese Grosso and to eventually bottle under the family name. In 1967 Bramante founded the Consorzio di Brunello. The Valdicava property lies on a high plane close to Montalcino. Wines from this area have as their signature characteristics a great balance between body and perfume.

Valdicava is the actual name of the valley in which the greatest single-vineyard wines of Brunello are produced. In the middle of this valley sits the grand Madonna del Piano vineyard along with the Valdicava estate. In 1987, the grandson of Bramante, Vincenzo Abbruzzese began to work in the vineyards and the cellar and has since transformed Valdicava into one of the most collectible and sought-after Brunello di Montalcinos in existence today. All Valdicava grapes are organically grown and no chemical pesticides or fertilizers are used in the vineyards.

Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Valdicava 2015, 14 Abv.

Rich opulent expressive nose with plenty of ripe exotic aromatics of sweet cherry, kirsch cherry liquor, crème de cassis and sweet cherry rock candy. Palate is ripe, creamy and supple with unusually sweet fleshy fine grained tannins, massive depth of fruit, electric freshness and incredible elegance, balance and harmony. Very impressive already with clear age ability potential but also unusually for Valdicava, a beautiful approachability right now.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fine Wine Safari Brunello di Montalcino 2015 Vintage Series: Part 3 – Sesti…

April 20, 2020 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 4 Comments

Sesti – Without doubt one of the leading producers in Brunello di Montalcino: an estate of 9 hectares under vine which is run by astrologer Giuseppe Sesti and his daughter Elisa. In the vineyard, everything is kept as natural as possible with zero use of herbicides, pesticides, chemical fertiliser and even outside sourced yeasts. The study of astronomy and lunar cycles has also influenced Giuseppe’s approach in the winery – he follows the phases of the moon when it comes to winemaking techniques; only racking wines during a waning of the moon. Ageing of the wines takes place in larger Slavonian oak casks because, according to Sesti, if he is happy with the fruit, the tannins and the overall growing season, then there is no need to mask the wine, but rather preserve the inherent qualities that Sangiovese Grosso draws from these meticulously farmed vineyards.

Castello di Argiano, Sesti’s medieval castle.

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino 2015, 14 Abv.

On the nose this attractive 2015 Brunello shows wonderfully elegant, fragrant notes of wild strawberries, fresh roses and violets that mix with exotic notes of cinnamon, baking cloves and black chocolate spices. Full and generous in the mouth, there is plenty of juicy cherry and red currant fruit intensity that melts in to a complex mélange of liquorice, sweet tobacco, cola and black plum confit. Focused and persistent, this wine has all the building blocks to improve over 8 to 10 years as it mellows in bottle after 39 months ageing in big barrels.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fine Wine Safari Brunello di Montalcino 2015 Vintage Series: Part 2 – Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta…

April 16, 2020April 17, 2020 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 3 Comments

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta – One of Angelo Gaja’s two Tuscan properties, on the site of an old church, Santa Restituta, that dates back to the 4th century. As is the family’s style, theirs is a fusion of modern and traditional winemaking. They also own land on the Buonconvento Northern side of Montalcino and some prestigious lands in the South, a stone’s throw from Sesti. The Northern sites normally go into the Brunello di Montalcino with Sugarille and Rennina located around the winery on the Southern side of the town being bottled individually as Crus. These three Brunellos, from one of the finest names in Italian wine, are impeccably crafted and full of character, polished finesse and age ability.

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino 2015, 14 Abv.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino normale is a riper and more expressive creation, quite darkly fruited but ultimately much less introverted than the bigger Brunello Crus of Rennina and Sugarille. Packed full of dark wild cherries, black plums, sweet cherry tobacco, cherry cola, liquorice, botanical spices and menthol nuances all wrapped around a substantial frame of sweet polished tannins. Ideally this wine needs another few years in bottle, but it is always difficult to resist this wine’s inviting sense of opulence, poise and harmony on release. Another fantastic release for the Gaja fine wine empire.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fine Wine Safari Brunello di Montalcino 2015 Vintage Series: Part 1 – Salicutti Sorgente 2015…

April 10, 2020April 10, 2020 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

A small handful of the wines I tasted are a little bit closed at this early stage, and these will benefit from more cellar ageing. However, the majority of the samples tasted showed softly textured, abundant and accessible characteristics that make them beautiful to drink straight out of the gate or with very little aging required. Bottles from the versatile 2015 vintage can go into your cellar for safekeeping or onto your dinner table for near- to medium-term consumption. The choice is yours, and that’s one of the top selling points of 2015.

Podere Salicutti – It’s been in the works for a few years now, but the ownership switch at Salicutti is now complete. Previous proprietor and founder Francesco Leanza has left his beautiful farmhouse in Montalcino and has now taken up residence in the nearby city of Siena. The new German owners Felix and Sabine Eichbauer have taken over, and their names are now listed on the back labels of the bottles.

In terms of winemaking, nothing has changed, and indeed these two vintages were completed under Francesco’s watch. His style represents purity and a non-interventionist’s approach. His simple, hands-off winemaking always works best in the great vintages and the 2015 is an absolutely terrific creation. In fact, the new releases are some of the best wines we have ever tasted from Salicutti, one of our favourite estates in the appellation. A new gravity flow winery was built and completed in June 2019 and as no 2014 Brunello di Montalcino was produced, this is the first Brunello to be released to the market since their stellar 2013.

Podere Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Sorgente 2015, 14 Abv.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino displays an authentic, classically pure personality that is characterized by dark cherry fruits, botanical spices, sweet leather, cherry cola and grilled herbs. The wine has a fabulously intricate level of beguiling complexity that you often see with the best organic fruit and winemaking. This Brunello wine is classically solid in frame but also generous and precise showing a wonderfully balanced acidity and a zesty, energetic intensity. Always age worthy, this Cuvee is sure to be one of the most sought after wines of the vintage yet again.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

A Decade of Seeking Maremma Perfection – Tasting the Immaculate 10th Vintage of Val di Toro…

May 31, 2019June 1, 2019 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

I recently tasted the delicious Val di Toro X Vendemmia 2015 red from Anna Maria Cruciata and Hugh Maxwell, owners of the dynamic Val di Toro estate in the Maremma that lies between Grosseto and Scansano. Wow, I thought, has it really been ten years since I first tasted their maiden release red? A decade of growth and a decade of fine tuning has now resulted in one of their greatest red creations to date.

The 2015 vintage was an incredible year in the Maremma and also a year Hugh and Anna decided to put their organically grown Sangiovese grapes into large new Slavonian oak botte where it was aged for 24 months before being bottled. The results have been captured immaculately in bottle and represent the pinnacle of the Val di Toro journey to quality.

Val di Toro 2015 X Vendemmia Maremma Toscana Sangiovese, 14.5 Abv.

Always a dense, concentrated red wine, Val di Toro has never lacked intensity or depth. But what the 2015 reveals is definitely a vinous revelation and a notable step up in quality. The aromatics portray a picture of beauty, seductive perfume, sweet red cherry, sandalwood, resinous sappy oak spice, vanilla pod, aniseed root and a bold lashing of caramelised red cranberries. The palate is regal and broad, incredibly fine grained and suave with a fine balance and ambitious textural harmony. Who knew Sangiovese tannins could be so sweet and sensual? Still very youthful, there are no edges to speak of and elegance and finesse are the words that inspire a palate built around intensity, sublime balance and succulent length. In many ways, the addition of the botte ageing has added an almost “Brunello’esque” gravitas to the wine and an intriguing extra level of complexity and allure. This is surely a wine that will age and improve for a good 10 to 15 years but also a vinous delicacy that is so delicious to drink in its vibrant halo of youth.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Gaja Highlights Their New Tuscan Releases at a High Profile Masterclass in London…

March 18, 2019 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

In 2019, as Angelo Gaja reaches 78 years old, he has for the first time all his children, Gaia, Roxanna and Giovanni all working together representing the family’s multiple estates. So it was perhaps extra fitting that today Angelo Gaja was awarded the prestigious Institute of Masters of Wines’s Winemakers’ Winemaker Award at Prowein in Dusseldorf.

However, for this tasting in London, Gaia and Giovanni started by profiling the family’s most recent Gaja winery acquisition in 1996, running through the full range of Ca’Marcanda wines produced in Bolgheri, coastal Tuscany, home of legendary neighbours Guado al Tasso, Ornellaia and Sassicaia.

Ca’Marcanda is also the Gaja winery that has seen the most marked increase in quality over the past 5 years as new plantings age and the family slowly learns the true potential of the estate’s terroir that includes 27 different soil types.

Tasting with Gaia Gaja and Giovanni Gaja at the Lanesborough in London.

75 hectares were bought in Bolgheri in 1996 with another 50 hectares subsequently acquired near Bibbona, outside the DOC Bolgheri appellation, for fruit that goes into the Vistamare white and Sangiovese grapes for some of their non-DOC reds.

Ca’Marcanda Vistamare 2018, 14 Abv.

A blend of Vermentino and Viognier, the wine shows vibrant pithy aromatics loaded with white citrus, salty maritime notes, green apple, ripe pear, sweet blossom and chalky, stony notes. Despite the vintage’s rain, there is a fine stony green apple fruit concentration, rasping white citrus and a delicious fleshy texture.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Giovanni, Gaia and UK agent, Patrick McGrath MW from Hatch Mansfield.

Ca’Marcanda Promis 2017, 13.5 Abv.

55% Merlot, 35% Syrah and 10% Sangiovese blend. An incredibly hot, dry year but not in the mould of 2003. The year started dry and hot so conditions were far more anticipated. Over ripeness has been avoided yielding a fine opulent example with plushness, sweet black berry fruited nose from tiny berries that embraces the subtle chocolatey mocha, nutty, oak notes and chalky, dusty mineral tannin on the finish. Very mineral and powerful, perfectly representing the small, thick skinned grapes vinified in this vintage.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ca’Marcanda Magari 2017, 14 Abv.

A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. The aromatics immediately show ample complex lifted perfume notes with layers of violets, lavender, coastal garrigue and sweet dark black bramble berries. Silky soft elegant texture, there is impressive freshness and generosity framed by chalky mineral graphite tannins, sweet blueberry and black cherry fruit concentration and a delicate concentrated cassis confit length. A wonderfully composed and orchestrated red blend with a lot of class.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda 2016, 14 Abv.

A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. The flagship Red comes from the “almost perfect” 2016 vintage where Gaia said everything was in perfect balance and harmony. Already very open and “friendly”, the Carmacanda shows dense dark black currant depth, sweet cassis, graphite spice and a very restrained, fresh, crunchy concentrated finish with real verve and nerve, tension and generosity. The 17 degree C diurnal temperature shift between day and night during vintage really shows its imprint through bright, linear, vibrant glassy acids framing the pure, precise black fruits. Sublime precision and pinpoint elegance with substantial power and drive. This wine has class and quality written all over it. Possibly the finest Camarcanda flagship expression produced to date.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Gaja Winery owns wine estates in Barbaresco (Piedmont), Pieve Santa Restituta winery in Montalcino (Tuscany) and Ca’ Marcanda winery in Castagneto Carducci (Tuscany). In 2017, the Gaja family undertook a joint venture with the Graci family. Together they purchased vineyard acreage on the southern slope of Sicily’s Mount Etna, where you can find Nerello Mascalese and Carricante varieties. Plans for the new Gaja winery are currently awaiting planning permission in Sicily.

Tasting the Casanova di Neri Flagship Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2012 with Giacomo Neri…

January 16, 2019January 17, 2019 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 1 Comment

The most famous vineyard sites produce the most famous wines and Montalcino is certainly no different. Casanova di Neri was founded by Giovanni Neri in 1971 and since his passing in 1991, his son Giacomo Neri has run the farm overseeing all vineyard and cellar activities personally where they produce six different wines.

The Cerretalto vineyard cuvee is however an exceptional flagship expression in the Casanova di Neri range producing extraordinary Brunello’s with a real concentration of fruit and minerality but are only bottled in the most expressive vintages. Of the total 8 hectares of the vineyard, only 4 hectares of vines lying on the red iron soils are used for this special cuvee.

The first Cerretalto vintage was 1981, followed by 1986, 1988, 1990, 1993, 1995, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010 and now finally 2012… a wine always released after 6 years aging in the cellar of which 28-30 months are in 300 and 500 litre French oak barrels and the remaining 30 months in bottle.

Tasting with Giacomo Neri, the current owner.

Casanova di Neri Cerretalto Brunello di Montalcino 2012, 15 Abv.

One of the most famous ferrous iron rich soil sites of Montalcino located east of the town continuously produces incredibly profound, potent wines with a very classical cool personality in the context of Brunello di Montalcino. The aromatics possess a wonderfully lifted perfumed fragrance laden with intense notes of dried rose petals, exotic baking spices, graphite, sun raisined cherries, Arabian prunes, iron filings, bresaola, liquorice and tar. On the palate, the flavours are bold and powerful with an incredible cherry fruit intensity layered with nuances of aniseed root, gravelly minerality and creamy sweet tannins that embrace the palate and then gently tail off slowly to leave a lasting imprint of sublime complexity, textural depth and superb elegance. This wine is a revelation and once again, top terroir trumps vintage conditions. Drink from 2020 to 2035+

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)