The Burlotto family winery was established in Verduno, one of the most historic communes in Barolo, 174 years ago and today the winery produces classical Barolos with one eye firmly on tradition and the other on modernity, focusing on making wines with a real soul and an incredible sense of place. It is undoubtedly this unwavering classicism, a resolute focus on premium quality and attention to detail that has helped elevate Burlotto into the ranks of one of the most sought-after cult Barolo producers, comfortably rubbing shoulders with other iconic names likes Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno and Guisseppe Rinaldi – all of which are now desperately difficult to buy at first release prices.
After the death of their founder, Giovan Battista, the winery passed into the hands of his son Francesco, and then again, after Francesco died prematurely, to his grandson Ignazio. Courageous and far-sighted, Ignazio found himself alone at the helm of the company navigating through the most challenging periods of time during world war II. He was the only vintner of the region who continued to produce varietal Pelaverga wines, growing grapes on his own and buying small quantities from neighbouring farmers.
Ignazio Burlotto passed away in 1968, the year in which the winery passed to his daughter Marina, then only seventeen years of age. Marina, with her husband Giuseppe Alessandria, and their children Fabio and Cristina, represent the fourth and fifth generations at the helm of this historic company. With the 2020 Barolos due to arrive on the market soon, I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to have a closer look at the last three vintages of Burlotto’s Barolo ‘normale’ seeing as these are the wines people are most likely to have in their cellars rather than the super delicious – but super rare – Barolo Monvigliero cru.
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2017, 14.5% Abv.
The 2017 is an elegant expression of Nebbiolo with fragrant aromatics of polished mahogany, sweet red cherry, black berry, tar, roses and aniseed root. The palate texture is elegant and silky with fine powdery dry tannins supporting a medium to light weighted palate density where the spicy tannins and peppery herbal notes dominate a delicately translucent red and black fruited concentration. Certainly a beautiful interpretation of Barolo from a so called ‘lesser’ vintage but perhaps lacks the opulence and intensity of a riper vintage like 2016 or the accessibility of 2018. Drink now or hold comfortably for another 5 to 8+ years. But best enjoy the 2017s while the fruit is still in its ascendancy.
(Wins Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2018, 14.5% Abv.
The 2018 Burlotto Barolo is not only a classical beauty, but at its core, it possesses a wonderfully sweet, fleshy elegance and a delicious accessibility with aromatics packed full of ripe red cherry, rose petals, orange peel and vermouth spices with a hint of candied cherry bon bons. On the palate, there is a softer, less tannic spiciness than the 2017 expression, accompanied by a sweet fruited fleshy core with a notable elegance and genteel silky opulence. Fabulous balance is the order of the day, and this is certainly a wine that is incredibly pleasurable to drink now and over the next 8 to 10+ years, so bury a few bottles away in your cellar.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2019, 14% Abv.
The 2019 Barolo is made from fruit sourced from a vineyard with southern exposures at lower elevations bordering on the famous Monvigliero cru. While still noticeably youthful and taut, the aromatics offer up perfumed notes of rose petals, vibrant red cherries, ruby grapefruit, iron filings and sweet cardamon pod herbal nuances. There is a fabulous translucent clarity and an orange peel-tinged fruit purity to the wine together with tight grained powdery tannins and a chalky drying mouthfeel. Never short of freshness, even in warmer, riper vintages, the balance and equilibrium on this wine is astonishing, with a tight knit core of Verduno fruit power expertly interwoven into a complex minerality and a weightless intensity. A reassuringly classical vintage that impresses with its structural precision and polish. Drink on release if you must, but the 2019 vintage will certainly benefit from further cellaring.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
