The cult Japanese micro-negociant Kei Shiogai continues to confound mainstream wine critics on the rare occasion they get to taste his incredibly sought after wines. But of course, rarity does indeed not necessarily equal quality. What does result in quality is precision wine making, attention to detail, and a general obsession with quality, style and substance over hype and rumour.

I have visited Kei’s tiny micro winery on his industrial estate several times and on my last visit in January I got to taste his exciting new Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022 straight from the barrel and was simply bowled over, scoring it a potential 96-97/100. In August, I was graciously invited to taste a finished bottled expression of the 2022 at a dinner with his importer. The wine was equally as impressive as tasted from the barrel.

Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne 2022 a great addition to the appelation.

Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022, Burgundy

Aged in new oak barrels, this delightful 2022 Charlemagne Grand Cru shows intricate aromatics of salted limes, torn lemon peel, buttered white toast, tart white pear with a hint of pink musk and peach rock candy confectionary dusted in sherbet. The palate is wonderfully taut, crystalline and pure with the texture of polished Lalique glass, with spicy lemon pith, limes, salted pistachios and toasted oak nuances. Beautifully pristine and pure, this is a classy, seamless masterpiece and another truly profound expression of Corton-Charlemagne. Drink on release and over 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Burgundy wines of Kei Shiogai are imported exclusively into the UK by http://www.Musigny.wine and are tightly allocated on release.