France

Ten Years On – Tasting the Iconic Wines from the 2016 Bordeaux Vintage…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was nothing short of dramatic. For those tending the vines, it was a growing season shaped by an extraordinary mix of weather patterns which produced wines of remarkable balance and complexity. At the time, the oenologists echoed what many were feeling: “Bordeaux, by some miracle compared to many French wine regions, is preparing for an exceptional vintage.” Within the context of this historical pronouncement, and a surfeit of high critical scores dished out at En-primeur time, the only thing that can settle the status of this vintage once and for all is a “10 years on” tasting of bottled wines. Many thanks to Bordeaux Index for the opportunity to assess a phenomenal selection of top Chateaux wines.

A wet and cold winter set the stage for the 2016 vintage, with rainfall in the first six months of the growing season matching that of the entire previous year. Then, from mid-June to mid-August, the weather shifted dramatically, bringing a long, hot, and dry summer, followed by just 20mm of rain in early September. For many winemakers, that combination was a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the dry heat during July and August was a worry – especially on gravelly soils or younger vines which struggled with water stress.

On the other hand, the soils that had stored the winter’s water, especially clay and limestone plots, proved their worth and sustained the vines throughout the drought. Then came a timely and gentle revival: light rains in mid-September, followed by a long Indian-summer stretch – warm days, cool nights, and slowed-down ripening.

Christian Seely from Pichon Baron and Veronique Sanders from Haut Bailly.

As a result, many of the top estates found themselves harvesting remarkably late, often stretching far into October, allowing grapes the time they needed for full phenolic maturity: deep colour, rich tannins, well concentrated flavours, but without excess alcohol or overripe jammy fruit. As Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin noted, it was the first time in the estate’s history that harvest didn’t begin until October. Overall, the vintage was characterised by a balance of fruit and high (but supremely ripe) tannins with fresh acidity and pleasingly moderate alcohol levels.

Many thanks to Bordeaux Index for the opportunity to assess a phenomenal selection of top Chateaux wines.

The 2016 Bordeaux Selection:

Chateau Cheval Blanc 2016, Saint Emilion 

Lifted and perfumed. Silky and utterly sophisticated.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Ausone 2016, St Emilion 

Dark tight and broody. More black berry intensity.  Chiselled and fresh. Precise.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Red fruit, cedar, black berry. Earthy, Xmas spice. Class.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Rich, broad expansive aromatics. Black currant and graphite. Incredible depth. Very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 99+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Margaux 2016, Margaux

Fragrant cassis and saline black fruits. Silky, precise and fine grained.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2016, Pauillac

More savoury and brûléed. Dense and powerful with beautifully chalky tannins. A classic Mouton.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2016, Pauillac

Red and black berry fruits, exotic lifted perfume. Silky soft, pristine and very persistent.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Latour 2016, Pauillac

Complex salty cassis, oyster shell, graphite with a dense seamless palate, impressive power with phenomenal finesse. Bold wine. As close to perfection as possible.

(Wine Safari Score: 100/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Le Pin 2016, Pomerol

Mint chocolate chip, black berry and damson plum. Sweet fruited, generous palate and beautifully exotic.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Lafleur 2016, Pomerol

Beautifully exotic and complex, but also intricate. Brûléed, dark berries, salted cassis with a long luxurious creamy finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Petrus 2016, Pomerol

Dense, creamy and delicately lactic with chocolate praline notes, pithy graphite tannins and a cool finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Angelus 2016, Saint Emilion

Deep dense ripe black fruits, cassis, sapidity, full and powerful. Opulent and accessible.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Belair Monange 2016, Saint Emilion

Smoky chalky nose, graphite and black currant compote. Dense and compact power. Very smart.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Canon 2016, Saint Emilion

Graphite, black currant, sleek, silky, sophisticated. Superb.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Canon La Gafaliere 2016, Saint Emilion

Dark, spicy, picante intense fruit, raisined cherries and a chalky finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Figeac 2016, Saint Emilion

Fabulous oak – fruit integration. Complex and classy. Very silky and complete. Sensational.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Clos Fourtet 2016, Saint Emilion

Deep, dark and broody. Spicy mineral tannins, graphite hints and plenty of limestone grip.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau L’IF 2016, Saint Emilion

Touch stewed, raisined black berries. Fleshy, ripe expression. Exuberant.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau La Gaffeliere 2016, Saint Emilion

Rich and textured. Plenty of ripeness and power. Black fruits are slightly raisined on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau La Mondotte 2016, Saint Emilion

Warm toasty aromatics, plush and creamy, full throttle but beautifully fresh. A great success.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Pavie 2016, Saint Emilion

Dense and dark, packed with blue and black berry fruits. Chewy tannins, dry grippy limestone length. Serious.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Pavie Macquin 2016, Saint Emilion

Dusty limestone, liquor and creme de cassis. Cool and supple, elegant and vibrant. This is classy.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Quintus 2016, Saint Emilion

Earthy savoury black fruits. Polished but slightly baked black berry compote style on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Troplong Mondot, Saint Emilion, 15.5% Abv.

Broody black fruited nose, the palate silky, tangy and super vibrant. Very seductive.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Valandraud 2016, Saint Emilion

Earthy savoury black fruits. Dense, mineral grip. Slightly austere on the finish. But classical power.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau La Conseillante 2016, Pomerol

Brûléed, exotic enticing nose. Creamy and cool, packed with blue and purple fruits. Simply sensational.

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau L’Evangile 2016, Pomerol

Silky, opulent and utterly seductive! Very polished example.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Lafleur-Gazin 2016, Pomerol

Ripe savoury black berry fruits, pithy, ripe. Chiselled tannins.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Hosanna 2016, Pomerol

Salty, picante black berry fruits. Oyster shell, cassis and a long creamy finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2016, Pomerol

Graphite, wood smoke and creasote on the nose. Broad creamy palate with polished tannins, silky drying finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Trotanoy 2016, Pomerol

Broody black currant fruits, creamy and mineral. Power packed. Wow.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau La Violette 2016, Pomerol

Blue black fruits, effortless concentration, light and airy but still substantial.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Clinet 2016, Pomerol

Silky, complex, very complete wine. Cool and mineral. Textured but such class!

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol, 14.5% Abv.

Juicy red and black berry fruits, graphite, limestone and mineral lift. Dense, creamy and very classy.

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Haut-Bailly 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Lovely melange of savoury earth and black berry. Compact, dense, silky but plenty of power.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Intricate, perfumed and exotic, very enticing. Compact but sleek. Silky tannins, fresh and elegant. True class.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Savoury, truffle, exotic and complex. Creamy and intense. 

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Domaine de Chevalier 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Ripe red berry fruits, graphite and limestone, densely textured, compact and true class. Wow.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion 2016, Pessac-Leognan

Earth, truffle, savoury black fruits. Fabulous creamy depth, intricate acids, and true class.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Clarence de Chateau Haut Brion, 13.5% Abv.

Supple, silky and soft, plenty of earthy minerality, with a taut grippy finish. Punches way above its price point.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau D’Issan 2016, Margaux

Plenty of brûléed black fruit, creamy tannins and earthy black currant compote finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Palmer 2016, Margaux

Cool, pure black fruits, impressive intensity and length. Very elegant with underlying power.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Leoville Barton 2016, Saint Julien

A dense, compact wine with impressive depth and power, tantalisingly structured for the long haul. Yes please!

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Pontet-Canet 2016, Pauillac

This is super juicy, vibrant and textured with a tangy acidity, fabulous saline crème de cassis depth. Really lovely opulence.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Les Forts de Latour 2016, Pauillac

Complex layered wine with tilled earth, black berries and wet tobacco. Super serious.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Carruades de Lafite 2016, Pauillac

Medium weight, elegant and silky with black currant, damson plum and black cherry depth.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Le Petit Mouton 2016, Pauillac

Creamy black fruited depth, graphite, tilled earth with delicate mint and milk chocolate nuances.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Pichon Comtesse Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 13.32% Abv.

A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. This 2016 offers a subtle power with elegance, floral and lifted showing violets, bramble berry fruits, wild black currants and raspberry. A very pure, complete expression, definitely Pauillac at its best. 

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chateau Pichon Baron 2016, Pauillac

Dense, compact, powerful expression full of earthy black berry fruit, sweet tannins. graphite and cedar spice. Plenty of stuffing for the long haul.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

FOR MORE INFORMATION… contact Bordeaux Index Private Client Sales: Ellie.Roberts@bordeauxindex.com

Reviewing One of the Most Coveted New Producers in Burgundy – Tasting Through the Full Kei Shiogai 2023 Range of Wines…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Travelling to Burgundy to taste the previous vintage’s creations can be a somewhat tricky affair especially when producers across the region, in the Cotes de Nuits, Cotes de Beaune and the Maconnais all experienced such incredibly difficult vintage conditions in 2024. So, perhaps tasting through their more plentiful 2023 range serves as a timely distraction for a producer. I was very fortunate to be introduced to Japanese young gun Kei Shiogai several years ago and have gratefully been granted access to taste his wines every year from barrel and bottle since his maiden 2020 commercial releases. A relative newcomer to the Burgundy region, Kei is understandably quite protective about his winemaking philosophy, his pristine cellar and his overall privacy. Quite rightly, he prefers to let his wines do the talking.

In complete contrast to 2024, the 2023 harvest will be remembered for a plentiful, abundant harvest with generous yields, ample ripeness, and notable concentration usually commensurate with the quality of the wines’ individual terroir and level of appellation classification. While 2022 saw easy conditions for vignerons across the board, the weather circumstances in 2023 perhaps posed a few more questions, but ultimately yielding energetic, crystalline Chardonnays with a notable minerality and freshness alongside the fruit ripeness, and Pinot Noirs with delightfully sweet strawberry and red cherry-laced berry fruits that display plenty of clarity, a bright translucent purity together with linear fresh acids. Overall, the across-the-board vintage quality for red and white wines was incredibly consistent across villages with excellent balance, moderate alcohols, and elegant fruit purity.

While the 2023 vintage was neither cool and wet like 2021 or hot and dry like 2022, the season was marked by an initial warm, dry winter with a meagre amount of sunshine. The rains returned in March while the months of April and May were bright and sunny but relatively cool. Excellent flowering in May and June with perfect conditions, sealed the requirements for a potentially very generous crop. If June was warm, unseasonally cooler conditions in July and August prolonged the ripening somewhat before several heat spikes arrived in late August and early September to bring the fruit to full ripeness. Some are calling 2023 another solar vintage, or années solaires, but this description perhaps simplifies conditions unnecessarily. 

The Charmots 1er Cru has been in new oak barrels for 25 months when I tasted it again in December 2025. This wine will be bottled and released in 2026. Not to be missed. Could possibly be one of the most exciting red Burgundy releases of 2026?

The general wine merchant consensus is that 2023 is a very generous, fruit forward vintage with joyfully fresh whites that will even appeal to the classicists, and reds that range from lighter-bodied, fresh, and remarkably drinkable examples already through to more structured, riper, denser wines where producers clearly made a conscious effort to coax a little more structure and tension from their wines in light of the potential dangers of dilution from higher yields. 

Being one of the most sought after and collectable producers in Burgundy at the moment undoubtedly carries with it a few added headaches for Kei – from endless new requests for primary first release allocations in new and historical markets to highly inflated secondary market prices that always seem to benefit speculators rather than the producers themself. Nevertheless, fame at this level understandably always comes at a price, but so far, Kei is keeping his head down and focusing (or more like obsessing!) over the purity, precision and focus of his incredibly ethereal, elegant “new style” Burgundies that have captivated the global market.

Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin Village 2023

An enticingly perfumed aromatics bursting with violets and lilac, luscious red berry fruits, red plum, red cherry, pink musk and sweet strawberry confit. Silky, wonderfully fine boned and supple with incredible purity and precision with soft powdery tannins and a crystalline red berry purity, this is signature Kei Shiogai that finishes with a hint of sapidity and spice.  A very pretty wine indeed. Drink from 2025 to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin “Baraques” 2023

The Baraques cuvee shows a deeper, darker, bolder black plum colour in the glass with a broodier aromatics of black cherry, ripe strawberry, and black plum. Inviting notes of saline creme cassis and pink musk follow to the palate that shows a regal finesse and clarity as well as all Kei’s hallmark purity and pinpoint precision. Spectacular translucent fruit purity, weightless silky tannins and a long, intense brambly finish. Quite sublime. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Pommard Poisot 2023

A sleeping giant of a wine packed with dark broody purple and black berry fruits, black cherry, strawberry and saline creme de cassis. Taut and stony on the palate, this shows the power and tension of Pommard with a vein of graphite and limestone minerality, yielding tight grained polished marble tannins, pithy black berry fruits and a chalky dry extract grip on the finish.  A classic “iron fist in a velvet glove” expression. Youthful but already magnificent. Drink from 2026 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes 2023

An intricate floral aromatics with fabulous poise and precision, boasting violets and cherry blossom, creme de cassis, wild strawberry, graphite and piquant mineral spices. The clarity and purity are mesmerising, the light touch intensity and focus simply astounding. No shortage of piercing red and black berry 1er Cru power here, with notable concentration and creamy mouth coating tannins. True Gevrey class on display. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Echezeaux Grand Cru 2023

A broody beast of a wine offering an aromatic depth of Asian spices, graphite, violets, wild strawberry, earthy cured meats and savoury Christmas spices. Full, broad and fully loaded in the mouth, the concentration is rich, glycerol and intricately textural but supremely powerful, distinguished, yet beautifully precise. The Kei Shiogai signature style applied with classical winemaking. Surely a true unicorn wine of the future. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc “Les Famelottes” 2023, 13% Abv.

Located in the commune of Puligny Montrachet, the Les Famelottes shows a beautiful melange of wet limestone, yellow stone fruits, pear and green apple, roasted nuts with delicate dried herb nuances. So supple, soft, and fleshy in the mouth with a generous depth and subtle balance. Really very impressive and also truly delicious making this a good introduction to Kei’s precise winemaking style. Drink from 2025 to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2023

Cool, taut mineral aromatics reveal the true class and majesty of this great appellation. The aromatics are full of pithy lemon peel, pear, waxy green apples and a pronounced limestone mineral vein. The balance and textural precision are second to none, crystalline and beautifully focused, showing purity with immeasurable intensity and effortless elegance. Truly sublime. A great expression of this 1er Cru terroir. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet Village 2023

Taut and broody, this is 100% new oak expression shows no overt oak characters on the nose but merely the faintest complexing hints of dried herbs, lemon grass and lemon herbal tea before more classical notes of grilled nuts, salted pistachios, and dusty limestone minerality. Power packed and pithy, but also quite a taut, classical Puligny expression. Drink from 2025 to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeux 2023

Fabulously cool, pure, and crystalline, this barrel sample reveals incredible wound spring tension, a stony limestone core, lemon rind, lemon grass, and toasted almonds. Precision personified on the palate, the concentration is weightless and harmonious, the finish long, glycerol and delicately savoury and nutty. Wow! Another stunner from Kei. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Chassagne Montrachet Village 2023

This Chassagne shows beautifully attractive aromatics of lemon cordial, wild herbs, pithy wet limestone, and yellow stone fruits. Plenty of “gras” or weight on the mid-palate but still deliciously fresh, creamy, and harmonious. This is another delicious addition to the repertoire of great Chassagne whites! Drink from 2025 to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet Les Petit Grands Champs 2023

This lieu dit Puligny shows an intense, lemon and lime saline intensity with tangy bright acids. Beautiful balance and harmonious mouthfeel. Also great length with just a kiss of white toast and freshly baked brioche on the long, persistent finish. Drink from 2025 to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023

This fabulous terroir really shines in Kei’s hands, showing liquid minerals, wet limestone, lemon grass, sweet baking herbs, and warm buttered white toast. Plush textured and densely layered with notable dry extract but also a seamlessly creamy texture and an incredibly harmonious, balanced equilibrium on the palate. A decidedly more terroir driven, linear, minerally infused expression of Corton-Charlemagne than some of the more unctuous, buttery examples produced. Undeniably a profound wine and simply drop dead gorgeous. Drink from 2025 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The wines of Kei Shiogai are imported into the UK exclusively by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli to request an allocation.

andrew@musigny.wine

The Age of Bourgogne Aligote: Part 10 – Domaine Jerome Galeyrand Aligote Les Cailloux 2024…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Jerome Galeyrand has been listed as one of the most exiting producers in Burgundy over the past few years, topping many wine critics’ lists of “winemakers to watch” in Burgundy in the past 5 years. His winemaking style, that is all about purity, precision and focus, has elevated both his whites and reds into the highly collectable ranks. But 2025 saw yet more seismic change when Jerome moved into his newly built winery in Gevrey Chambertin, just next to Brochon.

Jerome has also been a well recognized and highly influential member of Les Aligoteurs, the local grouping promoting everything that’s great about this often under appreciated Burgundian white cultivar. With my long running “Age of Bourgogne Aligote” series running a bit dry lately, it was suddenly revived when I tasted one of the finest expressions of Aligote in a very long time… just unfortunately from, A) a tiny production 2024 vintage, and B) from a vineyard that has now been replanted to Chardonnay. Nevertheless, this is an incredibly exciting, noteworthy example worth seeking out in the up coming Burgundy En-primeur 2024 campaign.

Domaine Jerome Galeyrand Bourgogne Aligote Les Cailloux 2024

The 2024 Bourgogne Aligote Les Cailloux was actually sourced from an old vine vineyard in the Rully appellation that has since been uprooted and replanted with Chardonnay making this Jerome’s first and last creation. But boy, it’s as if that vineyard wanted to go out with a bang as this 2024 is one of the most profound Aligote offerings I’ve tasted in quite some time. Showing impressively intricate aromatics, the nose reveals complex layers of savoury leesy citrus, white blossoms, white peach, and a briney salinity before crushed limestone and lemon peel nuances. Super concentrated, this wine has a punchy, fleshy depth with a palate weight and power more akin to a top terroir driven mineral-laden Chardonnay. Wow, this really is phenomenal wine worth seeking out! Drink from 2026 to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The wines of Jerome Galeyrand are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli for an allocation.

Andrew@musigny.wine

Ending 2025 with a Big Burgundy Bang – Two Epic Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Tastings in London: Part 2 – China Tang at the Dorchester…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Always one of the absolute highlights of visiting Burgundy, tasting at the Domaine Bizot cellar is undoubtedly one of the most coveted appointments a wine professional can attend. Unfortunately, the slightly later December visit schedule this year did mean that I would miss seeing Jean-Yves Bizot in person at his cellar in Vosne-Romanee when tasting the 2024 wines from barrel as he would already be in Asia on tour. We were expertly guided through the sublime barrel tasting by Jean-Yves’s right-hand man, Victor Mignardot, who would also be in London the following week to help tutor two sensational private client collector tasting dinners featuring some of Jean-Yves’s finest wines. The first of these tastings was in the private room at Chez Bruce, one of London’s most famous Michelin stared restaurants. The second tasting dinner took place in one of my favourite restaurants in the whole of London, China Tang at the Dorchester Hotel on Park Lane.

Originally owned by Sir David Tang until his passing, this Chinese restaurant has come to exemplify top quality food and service over the years. Knowing Jean-Yves own personal penchant for Asian culture and cuisine, it was a fitting venue for the second Domaine Bizot private client tasting dinner. After preparing our palates with a couple of glasses of Champagne Petit & Bajan Promise Brut Grand Cru, a seductive blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir with a 4g/l RS dosage based around the 2019 vintage, we kicked the dinner off in proper style tasting the revelatory maiden release Le Charlemagne 2022 Grand Cru white. For any Domaine Bizot follower, this is certainly a wine that needs no introduction, representing the absolute pinnacle of white Burgundy quality. If I took the liberty to highlight one of my top reds of the year in Part 1, namely the Domaine Bizot Clos de la Bidaude 2023 red, then I would be remiss for not pointing the spotlight on this incredible white that was without doubt my favourite white wine of 2025, having tasted it from barrel and then from bottle three more times.

Domaine Jean Yves Bizot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022

The two specific single vineyards of En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne make up half of this famous appellation, while white grapes grown in seven other vineyards may also be sold as Corton-Charlemagne. As a result there can be a wide divergence in styles between earlier picked south-facing locations and cooler, later picked western slopes around Pernand-Vergelesses. Jean-Yves’s 0.14 hectares of vines are only located in the prestigious Le Charlemagne vineyard and in 2022 produced a meagre two new French oak barrels, or 600 bottles, of this golden Grand Cru nectar. A wonderfully sophisticated wine, it reveals a rich vinous tapestry tightly packed with savoury aromatics of leesy yellow citrus, fresh rain on limestone, wet straw, baking herbs and glacé lemon rind. The concentration on the palate is astonishing – glycerol, piercing, fresh and beautifully crystalline and saline with intense layers of lemon and lime cordial, green apple pastille over an electric laser-like acidity with just a subtle kiss of lemon butter and vanilla pod spice on the finish. An astounding wine of incredible power, focus and precision.

(Wine Safari Score: 100/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Le Charlemagne 2022 was mind blowing the first time I tasted it from barrel and continues to impress with each subsequent tasting. The 2023 vintage was another exceptional wine from a slightly more generous vintage that yielded three barrels. Sadly, just as this astonishing benchmark white Burgundy is gaining its own global cult following, the volumes have cruelly been restricted to only a single barrel in both 2024 and 2025 due to low yields and obsessive fruit selection. 

The dinner tasting line up.

After a brief interlude, the red flights started to be poured by the China Tang sommelier team. As a special treat, Jean-Yves’s Le Clos des Fées ‘100 Phrases Pour Eventails’ Pinot Noir 2023, the fourth release from this IGP Cotes Catalanes project, was poured to illustrate the fluidity and flexibility of Jean-Yves’s winemaking brilliance. From a riper vintage than 2024, the 2023 was sumptuous and generous, fleshy but incredibly silky, pure and precise, finishing with a brambly, damson plum and black berry intensity with a subtle sapidity. (95/100 GSMW) This is a fascinating project in Southwest France and one that is well worth keeping a close eye on if the new 2024 I tasted at the cellar is anything to go by!

For anyone that drinks Jean-Yves’s wines regularly will know, the mantra of “less is more” sits comfortably when tasting both his Domaine Bizot Marsannay Clos du Roy 2023 and his Domaine Bizot Le Chapitre 2022. While the Clos de Roy vineyard was renowned for its quality potential, Jean-Yves has brought his winemaking magic to this appellation and, perhaps with a little help from global warming, has helped elevate this vineyard to a quality level making wines only ever previously seen in the Grand Cru vineyards of the Côte de Nuits.

Myself, Victor Mignardot and China Tang’s Head Sommelier and Wine Buyer Igor Sotric.

Le Chapitre is a regional appellation site, squeezed in between high buildings in the middle of Chenôve whilst Clos du Roy, despite being located in the commune of Chenôve, is a village appellation Marsannay and is the northern continuation of the vineyards around the village of Marsannay. Compared with the lieux-dits sites considered for Premier Cru status in Marsannay, Le Chapitre is just a small 5.5 hectares in size owned by around ten growers including illustrious names like Sylvain Pataille, Laurent Fournier, Domaine Gagey and Drouhin. Always one of my favourites in the Bizot range, the Clos du Roy 2023 is an incredible success for the vintage with a perfumed lift, a textural fluidity, and the most crystalline, finessed finish imaginable (96/100 GSMW). The Le Chapitre too is all about elegance and subtlety, effortless concentration with an earthy, brambly finish – the power of the 2022 vintage making itself felt on the palate (94+/100 GSMW).

For the next flight, we moved back down to Vosne Romanee and Morey St Denis where Domaine Bizot produces several village appellation cuvees. At the first Chez Bruce dinner, Jean-Yves’s Vosne Romanee 2020 proved one of the stars of the night. This time, we were treated to the delightful Domaine Bizot Vosne Romanee Village 2023 vintage, with its pristine and impactful aromatics, lashings of black cherry and raspberry fruits and its beguiling Asian five spice complexity. A benchmark wine within Jean Yves’s range (95+/100 GSMW). Accompanying the Vosne Romanee, we were treated to a repeat showing of the incredible Clos de la Bidaude 2023 Monopole red that continues to seduce collectors globally with its intensity, majestic concentration and fruit purity (98/100 GSMW).

For the grand finale, a surprise Domaine Bizot Echezeaux Grand Cru 2015 was slipped into the lineup to accompany the outstanding Echezeaux 2023. This was quite simply a Grand Cru pairing made in heaven. The 2015 showed incredible depth, power and concentration, fruit ripeness without being overbearing or disrespectful to the appellation’s terroir complexity. Incredibly youthful and harmonious, this wine was indeed a real highlight, showcasing the effortless purity, intensity and precision Jean-Yves has so masterfully perfected (97+/100 GSMW). The Echezeaux 2023 was all charm and elegance, packed with complex red and black berry fruits, whole bunch sapidity and phenolic dry extract, finishing with an alluring minerality on the finish. Another true Bizot star in the making (96+/100 GSMW).

This sensational lineup of iconic Domaine Bizot wines certainly reminded all the private client attendees why they love and covet the red and white Burgundy’s of Jean Yves so much. With last desserts accompanied by the obligatory Jean-Yves sweet wine favourite, the Vin de Constance 2017 from South Africa, the second Domaine Bizot tasting dinner was brought to a close with a few words of thanks from Victor Mignardot and Domaine Bizot’s exclusive UK importer, Andrew Pavli from Musigny Wines.

The Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli to request an allocation.

Andrew@musigny.wine

Ending 2025 with a Big Burgundy Bang – Two Epic Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Tastings in London: Part 1 – Chez Bruce…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

My last trip to Burgundy in 2025 was slightly later than usual, in early December instead of the usual early to mid-November. This actually worked exceptionally well as all the growers had recovered from the bravado of the Hospice de Beaune Auction events as well as the tsunami of global wine merchants and critics that descend upon Burgundy every year around this time ahead of the En-primeur campaign. Arriving later was a masterstroke as not only were the winemakers feeling a lot more relaxed, but so too were their wines… in this case the 2024 whites and reds from one of the smallest and most difficult harvests on record.

Unfortunately, the slightly later schedule meant that we (myself and Domaine Bizot’s exclusive UK importer) would miss seeing Jean-Yves Bizot at his cellar in Vosne-Romanee when we went to taste the meagre quantities of 2024s from barrel as he would already be in Asia on tour attending events in China and Korea. But fear not, we were expertly guided through the sublime barrel tasting by Jean-Yves’s right-hand man, Victor Mignardot, who would also be in London the following week to help tutor two sensational private client collector tasting dinners featuring some of Jean-Yves’s finest wines.

Victor Mignardot in the Bizot cellar.

With access to the Domaine Bizot cellar incredibly limited, I feel blessed every time I am able to visit to taste these unbelievable wines from barrel at the domaine, where their perfection, precision and true brilliance is laid bare in all their glory. Jean-Yves’s Burgundies do fortunately travel very well, but there is certainly nothing like tasting the new vintages from barrel to experience their purity and finesse which is amplified by Jean-Yves’s lack of sulphur use during the winemaking and elevage process, preferring a more modest, considered sulphuring of his wines before bottling. For the exceptional 2024 releases, demand will be incrementally greater due to their excellent quality, but tiny quantities of wine produced. To compensate UK buyers and loyal followers of Jean-Yves’s wines, two incredible dinners were arranged in London to which I was graciously invited. 

Chez Bruce private tasting room.
Tasting the 2024 vintages.

The first of these two incredible events in mid-December featured mostly new release “in-bottle” vintages of Domaine Bizot’s 2023 wines alongside a small array of slightly older vintages. Expertly matched with some incredible food pairings at one of London’s top Michelin Starred restaurants, Chez Bruce, Victor and Andrew Pavli from Musigny Wines, Bizot’s exclusive UK importer, guided the guests through a delectable line up of wines that started with two phenomenal whites.

The Domaine Bizot Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc 2022 was a rich, broad, expansive expression that showed beautifully expressive aromatics and fruit power. Layered with leesy lemon and saline, briney maritime notes, and delicate wood spice complexity. The intensity and piercing tangy acids were classic Bizot with a little extra horsepower from this punchy vintage. A really exceptional wine. (95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

This was followed by the Domaine Bizot Bourgogne La Violette Blanc 2023, an incredibly elegant expression with plenty of textural finesse and effortless intensity. Sweet savoury lemon aromatics, lime peel and a wet stone minerality carry the palate with a beautiful harmony, tight grained phenolics and finely integrated acids. Showing simply sublime balance and finesse. (94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Clos de la Bidaude Monopole just above Clos des Lambrays.

The next four wines, poured in two flights, excitingly featured a wine that I rated as one of my top Burgundies tasted in 2025… the Domaine Bizot Clos de la Bidaude Monopole 2023. From one of Jean-Yves’s newer vineyard purchases, the maiden vintage was only produced in 2021 with no 2022 released, upping the pressure and expectations from collectors for the follow up. Thankfully, the Bidaude 2023 is a knockout expression, the concentration, depth, elegance and sublime precision simply staggering. This is certainly a wine I am happy to highlight individually in more detail as one of my true favourites of 2025.

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Clos de la Bidaude Monopole 2023

A wine that is simply mesmerizingly intense with piercing aromatics of violets, saline crème de cassis, oyster shell, and sloe berries with a tightly knit complexity of smoky sapidity, crushed limestone and chalky spice. Piercing and powerful, the purity and intensity of fruit is awesome, the precision, polish, and concentration simply majestic. The perfect marriage of intelligent winemaking harnessing super fruit purity and perfect hillside terroir. A really super impressive success for the vintage. Drink from 2028 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

With minuscule amounts of the Clos de la Bidaude 2024 produced, all eyes will certainly return to this wine for the potential 2025 release. This is a wine that you just feel Jean-Yves believes can match and even perhaps surpass, with time and further viticultural and winemaking tweaking, his iconic Vosne Romanee les Jachees and his Echezeaux Grand Cru. I myself, having tasted all bottled expressions, have no doubts whatsoever. So, with the 2023 Clos de la Bidaude upping the temperature on this cold wintery December evening in London, the follow up wines proved equally impressive.

Next up, the eye-wateringly delicious Domaine Bizot Vosne Romanee 2020 village, a wine with profound lifted aromatics, a savoury red and black berry fruit intensity, and a beguiling whole bunch sapidity that simply added the perfect ‘salt and pepper’ to this fine wine recipe. Youthful but drinking so incredibly well already, this wine, with the ripeness of the 2020 vintage, was one of the crowds’ absolute favourites on the night. (96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The last pair featured the well-priced Domaine Bizot Le Chapitre Rouge 2020 and the Grand Vin of Jean-Yves’s range, his Echezeaux Grand Cru. The Chapitre 2020 shared many similarities with the delightful Vosne Romanee 2020 without being quite as powerful and intense but perhaps, slightly more perfumed and ethereal. What this pair of 2020 reds certainly proved was how well they were drinking on the eve of their 6th anniversary. Certainly no rush, but a beautifully elegant wine. (95/100 Greg Sherwood MW).

Last but not least, the Echezeaux Grand Cru, one of the wines that has helped put Jean Yves on the global “most collectable” Burgundy map. As per my barrel tasting last year, a uniquely impressive expression but perhaps just 5% behind the Bidaude 2023 in both aromatic power and fruit intensity. But the brooding depth might make this the dark horse of the vintage for a late resurgence. (97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

While Jean-Yves might not have been there to share some of his own vinous treats, the evening nevertheless ended with one of his favourite sweet wines, the Vin de Constance 2017, a wine I tasted again earlier in the year with winemaker Matt Day at Klein Constantia during a vertical tasting. This is a bright, intense, seductive sweet wine that wears its greatness with effortless ease. A delicious end to a memorable evening of fine food and wine. (97/100 Greg Sherwood MW).

The wines of Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact them to request an allocation.

Andrew@musigny.wine

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot’s Iconic New Burgundy Wines from the 2023 Vintage Tasted and Reviewed…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The phenomenal wines of Jean-Yves Bizot represent the pinnacle of wine quality in a region graced with some of the most sought-after labels in the world of fine wine. Jean-Yves’ strict and uncompromising standards in the vineyards and his enviable old vine parcels in Vosne Romanée combine to offer a stellar line-up of miniscule production red Burgundies built for ageing. 

The Bizot cellar in Vosne Romanee.

Jean-Yves is a respected professor of viticulture and oenology in Beaune and lives in Vosne across the road from Henri Jayer’s old residence. He is also a quiet, composed man, uninterested in publicity and completely devoted to his wine craft. In an age where branding often overshadows substance, it’s refreshing to see someone who has never followed the crowd continue to pursue what he loves most – the art of wine.

The wizard of premium Burgundy, Jean-Yves Bizot.

Jean-Yves has an uncanny ability to produce wines that are delicate, feminine, and deeply expressive – wines that stand out at any fine wine tasting. But the true magnificence of his entire range has now acquired a fervent collector and connoisseur following the world over, making his new vintage releases some of the most highly anticipated in the whole of Burgundy.

The modest Bizot house and cellar in Vosne Romanee.

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Vosne Romanee Village 2023

A pristine, impactful nose with intense aromatics of black raspberries, black cherry and polished mahogany with a delicate sapidity over sweet Asian spices, black berry compote and bramble berry complexity. Crystalline and texturally taut in the mouth, linear, energetic and bright with tangy acids, limestone mineral tannins and incredibly focused elegance and precision. A benchmark for the vintage. Drink from 2027 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94-95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Vosne Romanee Lieu Dit ‘Les Jachees’ 2023

Fabulously deep alluring aromatics with a broody black cherry, bramble berry and sweet mulberry complexity laced with exotic Christmas spices, Asian five spice, together with a pronounced limestone minerality. The palate clearly shows an extra gear on the village cuvée, with hints of savoury cured meats, subtle forest floor and earthy blueberry fruits with a wound spring tension, linearity, and bright acid precision. Beautiful clarity and steely purity. Supreme terroir driven class. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95-96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Clos de la Bidaude Monopole above Clos des Lambray Grand Cru. Vineyard.

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Clos de la Bidaude Monopole 2023

A wine that is simply mesmerizingly intense with piercing aromatics of violets, saline crème de cassis, oyster shells and sloe berries with a tightly knit complexity of smoky sapidity, crushed limestone and chalky spice. Piercing and powerful, the purity and intensity of fruit is awesome, the precision, polish, and concentration simply majestic. The perfect marriage of intelligent winemaking harnessing super fruit purity and perfect hillside terroir. A really super impressive success for the vintage. Drink from 2028 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97-98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Echezeaux Grand Cru 2023

This is a broad complex wine with broody, earthy black fruited aromatics laced with damp earth, savoury black berry, red cherry and a well-integrated sapidity with attractive bramble berry notes. The stony mineral grip is stark, the dry exact fabulously mouth coating and intense. This is a slightly more accessible, generous expression from the Domaine but retains all the allure, purity, and mineral precision of a profound Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Drink from 2028 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95-96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The “Les Jachees” lieu dit vineyard in Vosne Romanee.

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc 2023

A broody complex white with intricate aromatics of lemon grass, sweet herbs, pithy white citrus, and sweet lemon pastille before notes of honey on warm white toast and grapefruit confit. The flavours are bright and tangy with plentiful nuances of wet stone minerality, honied lemon peel, bon bon rock candy and a dusty, powdery savoury finish. The astonishing concentration an ever-present Bizot hallmark. Drink from 2026 to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93-94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Bourgogne Les Violetts Blanc 2023

This is an expressive white with delicious waxy citrus aromatics, dried herbs, lemon tea, wet slate and delicate leesy lanolin nuances. The intensity is piercing, the texture deliciously tangy, glycerol and concentrated with lemon and lime cordial hints, a crystalline purity and a long, stony, concentrated finish. An incredibly delicious white with plenty of legs to go 12-15+ years. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94-95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot wines are imported exclusively in the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli to request an allocation.

Andrew@musigny.wine

A Deep Dive Into the Seductive Red Wines of the Southern Rhône’s Beaumes de Venise Appellation…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

There are few more beautiful regions in the southern Rhone Valley than Beaumes-de-Venise. This enchanting wine regions is towered over by the striking Dentelles de Montmirail peaks, limestone outcrops from the Jurassic era, the sloping vineyards of this tiny southern Rhône cru and its five picture postcard villages possessing a true classical beauty. With a mosaic of complex soils situated on slopes at altitudes as high as 600m, this region seems to tick all the correct boxes for a new generation of wine drinkers looking for quality, individuality, and affordability, all presented with a rich historically storied past.

Interestingly, Beaumes de Venise was one of the first French wine regions I visited on my return to Europe from South Africa in 2000. Coming five years before the appellation changes in 2005, the region was firmly dominated by sweet Muscat wines with red wines very much an afterthought – the red wines living in the shadow of more notable up and coming villages like Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau, Sablet, etc. I knew it was beautiful as a region and incredibly complex geologically, having hiked the Dentelle de Montmirail trails… which normally means it should be perfect red wine terroir as well.

Beaumes-de-Venise’s world-class Vins Doux Naturels (VDNs), sweet wines fortified to 15%, aka AOC Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, might be what the region is best known for, but as I discovered during a recent three day tasting trip to the region, there is so much more to discover and explore about this beautiful part of the southern Rhône Valley. 

While the regions Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise VDN sweet wines need no introduction, having been served at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, the Cru status for the reds wines was only conferred on Beaumes-de-Venise reds in 2005. These must be an assemblage of at least 50% Grenache and 25% Syrah, with other Rhône varieties permitted such as Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise.

White varietals like Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc can also be added but must make up no more than 10% of the blend. In practice, the majority of producers stick with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Currently, the INAO is still considering the AOC’s application in 2022 to include dry white wines under the same Cru designation.

The uniqueness of Beaumes-de-Venise’s terroir lies in its complex geological diversity, with four soil types: Triassic red earth, grey Jurassic earth, Cretaceous white earth and blond Miocene earth. The emergence of the Dentelles de Montmirail brought the Triassic deposits to the surface around the village of Suzette, whose soils are ideal for Syrah, providing richness, suppleness and longevity. Grey Jurassic earth is found north of the village of Lafare, being made up of silt, clay and sand which is perfect for Grenache. Cretaceous white earth around the village of La Roque-Alric, with its marly clay-limestone soil, is good for both Syrah and Grenache, which are grown on terraces, or ‘banquettes’, that boost groundwater retention. Blond Miocene earth’s clay-sand soils are best for Muscat, providing finesse, freshness and floral aromas. This blend of soil types gives Beaumes-de-Venise wines distinctive complexity and balance.

Beaumes de Venise celebrating 100 years – 80 years for sweet wines plus 20 for the red wine appellation.

For the UK market, there is definitely a significant opportunity for the red blends focusing on Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. Most interestingly for me, despite the 14 to 15 % alcohol levels on the wines, they all retained incredible purity, freshness and focus more in keeping with wines that are 13 or 13.5% abv. But the limestone soils and altitude definitely bring something special to the wines. In the wider wine market, there is undoubtedly plenty of interest in the UK for the £16.99 to £22.99 price point wines that should see consumers getting a very accomplished red wine showing fruit purity, concentration, and structure.

AOC Beaumes-de-Venise Red Tasting:

1 Domaine Sant Amant 2024

Enticing sweet herbs, Xmas spices and black berries with a dusty stony, mineral undertone. Fresh and crunchy, texture shows tension, acid frame and lovely red and black fruit clarity with a tangy finish. 

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

2 Domaine Pierre Rougon 2024

Full of dark broody black berry fruit aromatics with a dusty limestone minerality. Lovely pithy mineral tannins, restraint and grip but fine grained and full of energy with a saline liquorice kiss on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

3 Sarl Persephone Domaine Suzette 2024

Deep earthy black berry fruits with damson plum, black cherry and sweet bramble berry spices. The texture is fleshy and compact showing depth and breadth but also a creamy black fruited depth with plush powdery tannins and a saline intensity on the harmonious finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

4 Domaine Caroline Bonnefoy 2023

Intense perfumed aromatics packed full of sour plum, peach skins, violets and lavender fragrance. Bright and fruity, the palate is tangy and mouth watering with a sweet / sour acidity with soft fleshy layers of red and black berry fruit on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

5 Domaine de Fenouillet Terres Blanches 2023 

Dark broody nose with exotic black cherry and wild strawberry notes. The texture is sleek and polished, the tannins fine grained and powdery, finishing with chalky, grippy mineral tannins. A real terroir feel to this wine.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

6 Domaines des Bernardins 2023

The aromatics are dusty and savoury with sappy spicy notes, peppery black berries, and a smoky flinty hint. The palate is fruity and bright full of red and black berry fruits, tangy acids and a sappy brambly finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

7 Domaine des Garances Alazard 2023

A delicately perfumed aromatics showing musk, lavender, potpourri, black plums, red currants and black cherry. Palate shows crisp acids and notable delineation with wild strawberry and bramble berry fruits over a stony limestone minerality.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

8 Domaine du Grand Montmirail Terres Blondes 2023

Piercing and pure fruited with violets, lavender, red cherries and red berries. Crisp, pure and very focused with an impressive textural precision. Very impressive balance. Real class.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

9 Domaine La Ligiere Les Garennes 2023

Deep broody complex aromatics show herbs and spices, black berry fruits, musk and lavender. The palate is plush and ripe with a sweet sour acidity alongside plummy red and black fruits, bramble berries and hints of breakfast brown toast.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

10 Domaine Raboly Clement V 2023

Delightfully perfumed nose of dried violets, potpourri and lavender alongside red and black berry fruits. The palate is crisp, pure and taut, full of energy and tension, polished marble tannins, tangy acids and a sleek harmonious long finish showing class and pedigree. Wow!

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

11 Famille Petitjean Les Contreforts de Montmirail 2023

Bright fruity nose showing raspberry ripple, strawberry confit and sour red plum with a smoky mineral hint. Deliciously tangy and red fruited, the finish is long, characterful and delicately salty.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

12 Famille Petitjean Tradition 2023

Dark fruited aromatics showing damson plum, bramble berries and garrigue spice. There’s a focused precision on the palate, crisp acids and an accessible, long, fleshy finish with soft pliable tannins.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

13 Domaine Pierre Rougon Les Vins Pierre Rougon 2023

Attractive aromatics of damson plum, black currant, violets and salty cassis. The texture is polished and tight knit, sleek, balanced and fine grained with creamy red and black fruits and a harmonious blackberry fruited finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

13B Jean Pierre Cartier Rouge 2023

Shows a melange of perfume and lavender, musk and bathroom soaps with potpourri and garrigue spices. The palate is fleshy and creamy, full but accessible and deliciously chalky and tight grained with a powdery grippy mineral finish. A serious effort!

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

14 Vignerons des Dentelles Dom Venitia 2023

A dark fruited plummy smoky bramble fruited aromatics. The fruits are cool and compact, polished with fine grained tannins and gentle, soft integrated acids with a delicately toasty, brûléed finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

15 Domaine de Durban Vieilles Vignes 2022

Tight dark fruited aromatics. Sleek texture. Beautifully complex and polished.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

16 Domaine de la Pigeade Hurlevent 2022

A wine with impressive minerality and precision alongside aromatics of limestone, garrigue and spicy black berry. Impressive purity and precision on the palate, a definite winemaking focus and know how that elicits the best of this wine’s terroir. A polished, harmonious style with real minerality.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

17 Domaine des Garances Jas du Chene 2022, 14.5% Abv. 

50% Grenache and 50% Syrah aged in concrete and stainless steel vats. Exotic aromatics of cherry rock candy, red plum and sour cherry. Follows to a deliciously pure, crystalline palate with sleek silky tannins, glassy fresh crystalline acids and a beautifully harmonious finish with a delicate brûléed tasty twist. Very impressive finesse.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

18 Domaine Raboly Jean XXII 2022

Deep broody black fruited aromatics showing plum and black berry, musk and potpourri spice. Texture is cool, fleshy and pure, harmonious and balanced with silky tannins, a fleshy black berry core of fruit and a long, chalky finish. Very mineral and seriously classy!

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

19 Domaine Saint Amant Grangeneuve 2022

An intricate aromatics with raspberry and red currant top notes over deeper, broodier black currant and damson plum baritone fruit notes. Full and plush in the mouth, the acids are tangy and the tannins sweet, soft and accessible, finishing with a mellow sweet and sour complexity.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

20 Earl Saint Roch Cuvee des Sens 2022, 15% Abv.

60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. Smoky meaty savoury aromatics with hints of cherry rock candy, macerated blueberry fruits and musk hints. The palate shows a fleshy depth and concentration, accessible ripeness and generous depth with a long, plush, sweet black fruited finish. Packs a lot of punch and intensity.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

21 Earl Saint Roch Cuvee des Taus 2022

A delightfully fragrant aromatics boasting violets and potpourri, black cherries, musk and lavender. The fruits are tangy and bright in a red and black berry melange. Polished tight grained marble tannins are supported by a fresh acidity and a generous, harmonious fruit length.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

22 Vignerons des Dentelles Confidence 2022

The aromatics show dusty, herby garrigue spice with musk and cinnamon spice. Cool and compact on the palate, the tannins are fine grained, chalky, and soft with a drying mineral finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

23 Gaec de Benquillon Rene 2022

Perfumed aromatics with pink musk, talc, lavender and potpourri. The palate is bright and tangy, the acids crisp and the tannins chalky and mineral. Massive fruit concentration and intensity make this a very impressive wine.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

24 Famille Soard Domaine de Fenouillet Yvon Soard 2021

Deep dark notes of black cherry, liquorice and black berries. Stony mineral texture with linearity and chalky tannins. A more mineral, classically restrained expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

25 Domaine de Garances Le Pas de L’Aube 2021

75% Syrah and 25% Grenache from a single plot. Complex aromatics of black berry, saline cassis, liquorice and black olive. The texture is cool and tight knit, with polished stony tannins, a chalky minerality and a drying intense finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

26 Domaine Saint Amant Cuvee Nathalie 2020

20% new barriques with up to 8 year old barrels with a 3-4% Viognier portion blended and Co-fermented. Aromatics full of black cherry, kirsch liquor, and salty black liquorice. The black fruits are zippy and vibrant, the texture chalky and mineral with a long, tangy salty finish. Plenty of intensity here.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

27 Famille Petitjean Felibrige 2020

A more savoury meaty black fruited aromatics with cherry and cured meats. Palate is mineral and taut with stony tannins and a chalky finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

28 Vignerons de Dentelles Trias 2020

Deep broody aromatics boast black cherry, black berries and saline spice. A notable minerality belies the palate with fine grained chalky tannins and a fresh, bright acid finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Star performers from Domaine Raboly, a young premium micro-site boutique producer.

 

Domaine Parent Showcases Their New 2023 Burgundy Releases in London Alongside an Impressive Array of Back Vintages…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Domaine Parent has long been a leading producer of premium wines in Burgundy. Moving to the modern era, Domaine Parent is recognised as one of the first growers to sell their production in bottle rather than in bulk. Now run by 12th generation custodian Anne Parent, the domaine continues to produce some of the most eye-catching wines in Burgundy and specifically in Pommard as Anne prepares to hand over the reins of winemaking and marketing to the 13th generation – her niece Constance Fages-Parent.

The new 2023 Burgundy releases.

As Anne prepares for a slightly more sedate mentoring role in her semi-retirement, she recently returned to London with Constance to showcase the domaine’s new 2023 releases in bottle alongside a seductive array of back vintage wines for collectors and connoisseurs. Having tasted the 2023 releases last November in Burgundy at the domaine with Anne, it was fascinating tasting the full range again in bottle, after the wines have had extra time to harmonise, flesh out and integrate. While tasting the En-primeur samples, it immediately became apparent that the Parent 2023 wines were among the most serious expressions of the vintage, revealing depth, concentration and ample structure in this more accessible, charming Burgundy vintage.

Anne and Constance in London.

During her tenure, Anne Parent has been a trailblazer in biodynamics and a real force for strict vineyard management. Hence, the domaine has managed to stay very much at the top of the tree in the Burgundy quality hierarchy. Tasting the 2023 releases and a superb selection of back vintages in London merely served to reconfirm the domaine’s true “first growth” standing in Pommard.

The 2023 New Releases from Domaine Parent:

Domaine Parent Bourgogne 2023, 12.5% Abv.

A true introduction to the joys of the Parent wine range. Pure, bright and deliciously red fruited showing red currant, red cherry and wild strawberry nuances. The entry is zippy and fresh, the palate delicately chalky with powdery accessible tannins and deliciously tangy acids that lend a mouthwatering succulence. Silky, soft and ready to enjoy in its youth. Drink from 2025 to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 90+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Bourgogne Selection Pomone 2023, 12.5% Abv. 

This is a blend of lower slope Volnay and Pommard vines of over 50 years in age. Full of intricate black berry fruits, this wine displays depth and complexity, a delicate smoky limestone minerality and a spicy, mint-tinged salty cassis finish. Accessible but still very serious. Drink from 2026 to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard Les Noizons 2023, 13% Abv. 

The delightfully complex aromatics show a beautifully expressive side of red and black berry fruits, black cherry, pink musk and salty cassis. Impressively chalky tannins, seductively bright crystalline acids and a pithy, black fruited finish. Pure class with superb balance and persistence. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Croix Noires 2023, 13.5% Abv. 

Beautifully dense, dark smoky aromatics full of limestone dust, pithy cherry skins and earthy red berry fruits. The palate is restrained but fleshy with a glycerol opulence, silky powdery tannins and a long, focused, incredibly precise finish with polished marble tannins. A very complete wine. Drink from 2026 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins 2023, 13.5% Abv. 

The aromatics are dark and aromatic with notes of black cherry, salted liquorice, and creme de cassis. The fruits are taut and powerful, tight grained and mineral laden with an impressive core of concentration, a liquid minerality and a lovely long, compact length. Power packed and broody. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Argillieres 2023, 13.5% Abv.

The aromatics are laden with red berry fruits, red plum and earthy savoury notes. Delightfully fleshy and fresh on the palate backed by mouth watering acids, a glycerol mouthfeel and an accessible cherry fruited finish. Creamy, succulent precision with super purity and accessibility. Drink from 2026 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Chaponnieres 2023, 13.5% Abv. 

From 85-year-old Pinot Noir vines grown on brown and red clay soils that offers a more generous expression. Shows dark and alluring aromatics of black cherry, kirsch liquor and damson plum, liquorice and saline creme de cassis nuances. There’s a translucence to the fruit purity, crystalline acid brightness and a beautiful precision that shows some similarities to its neighbour Les Croix Noires. Massive concentration, opulence and depth. Very special site. Drink from 2026 to 2040.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2023, 13.5% Abv. 

The 2023 sees 40% whole bunches used with 40% new French oak from fruit grown on a lighter, finer grain of clay soils without much depth. The intricate aromatics show incredible precision and focus, power with elegance, with smoky limestone notes, satin soft tannins, and a generously long, concentrated finish. An utterly compelling offering. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes 2023, 13.5% Abv.

The complex aromatics shows red and black berry fruits, black orchard fruits, with high toned perfumed notes of kirsch cherry, purple rock candy, and blue berry nuances. The concentrated fruit envelops your palate, coating your mouth with silky powdery precision, before a long, persistent, focused classical finish. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Corton Grand Cru Blanc 2023

From Chardonnay vines grown on deep limestone soils on the hill of Corton, just above the Les Bressandes vineyard. The wine is rich and expressive, full of ripe citrus fruits, buttered toast, honeycomb and leesy biscuity nuances. Sleek and bold in the mouth, there is a polished accessibility, a classy light touch elegance, bright racy acids and a long, distinguished, concentrated finish. Quite tight at the moment so might need a few more years in the cellar. Drink from 2027 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

An impressive selection of Parent back vintages.

Domaine Parent Back Vintages:

Domaine Parent Pommard Les Croix Blanche 2019

A fabulous perfumed aromatics bristling with saline cassis and black cherry notes. The palate is pure silk, delightfully fine grained yet still powerful with great depth, intensity and length. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Croix Noires 2019

Beautifully intense aromatics are packed full of red and black cherry, black sweet plum and a delicate sappy note in the finish. There is a classical 2019 breadth and depth, with opulent red and black fruits, a tangy acids and the signature tight knit silky tannins. A wine with great presence and depth. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Argillieres 2019

A wine with clear opulence and fruit forward density, aromatically brimming with red and black cherry, wild strawberry over a delicate limestone minerality. The wine shows a beautifully supple depth and concentration, fabulous generosity, a fleshy, spicy peppery depth but with great length. Really quite superb. Drink now to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins 2018

This 2018 shows a slightly more earthy savoury black fruited aromatics with hints of gun smoke, sappy spice and peppery wild strawberries. The palate is incredibly polished, fairly strict and linear but beautifully polished with silky tannins and a soft, tangy generous acidity. A more ethereal expression. Drink now to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Chaponnieres 2018

An intricate aromatic melange of savoury red berry fruits, sous bois, tilled earth and subtle dusty limestone hints. There is incredible tension and precision on the palate with a very fine grained linear texture, savoury red orchard fruits, and a beautifully focused, harmonious finish. Plenty of class on display. Drink now to 2038.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2021

Beautiful intensity is written all over this wine, with aromatics of violets, red and black berries, black cherries and saline notes. The acid intensity matches the fruit focus and precision with piercing depth, a strict structure but also fabulous concentration. Wow. A real beauty. One for the cellar. Drink now to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Grand Cru Corton Les Renardes 2020

This reveals a classical Burgundy nose showing stewed wild strawberries, red cherries, salty red liquorice with an underlay of earthy, herby, spicy sapidity. The palate entry is deliciously sweet fruited with an enticing interplay between savoury red fruits, frais des bois, sweet creamy supple tannins and a peppery, spicy, gun smoke mineral finish. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Corton Grand Cru Blanc 2020 (Magnum)

This is a really impressive white full of pedigree and precision. The aromatics boast lemon and herb spice, sweet crystallised lemon peel and lemon Bon Bons. The delicate leesy notes follow to the palate that shows a notable freshness, well integrated tangy acids, and a long, long, dry honeycomb finish. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Archive vintages served alongside a delicious meal at Medlar, Chelsea.

The Domaine Parent wines are imported into the UK by Burgundy speciality merchant Musigny Wines. Contact: Andrew@musigny.wine to request an allocation of new 2023 releases and back vintages.

The De Schepper Family Innovates with Their Pure Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Cuvée “Le Createur”…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The De Schepper family owns five wine estates in Bordeaux as well as the De Mour negociant firm that is tasked with distributing their wines, more often than not, direct to international merchants and retailers. In my experience of tasting and reviewing their wines for the past decade, this is a firm that prides itself on its values, based on human expertise passed down through generations, technical mastery of all stages in the winemaking process, as well as upmarket product ranges developed via exclusive partnerships. 

Within their product range, the special pure Cabernet Sauvignon cuvée of Château Haut Breton Larigaudière was created and named “Le Createur”, a literal translation of the family name of the owners “De Schepper”, a name of Flemish origin, in honor of Emile De Schepper, who bought the estate in 1964 and started the extensive renovation of the château. “Le Créateur” is an endless and tireless search tor the perfection of the personality of a specific vintage. I recently cracked a bottle of their 2015 vintage to assess how this pure Cabernet Sauvignon is looking after 10 years from vintage.

Chateau Haut Breton Larigaudiere Le Createur 2015, Margaux, 13.5% Abv.

This pure 100% Cabernet Sauvignon shows a beautifully complex and intricate aromatics of fresh violets, black cherry, dried bay leaf spice, red currants and black plum with hints of tilled earth, black tea and fresh tannery leather. The palate displays a beautiful crunchy freshness and definition with powerful linear tannins and a stony minerality supported by layers of creme de cassis and black berry fruits, a delicate wood spice, freshly brewed tea and delicate herbal notes on the long creamy finish. Drink this classy wine now and over the next 10+ years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Stuns Burgundy Collectors with His Phenomenal New Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023 Release…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Burgundy is full of talented wine makers, but every now and then, a new name comes along almost out of the blue, with incredible flair – this is Kei Shiogai – a superstar in the making. Originally from Japan, Kei left Tokyo to travel to New Zealand as he was so interested in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. After a short spell there, he was strongly encouraged by locals to pursue his passion in the true home of these varieties – Burgundy – where studied viticulture and vinification in Beaune and Dijon.

Kei arrived in Burgundy and proceeded to work with several top producers including Philippe Pacalet, Domaine Rousseau and Domaine Roulot. Indeed, his earlier vintages in Beaune were produced while he was still working at Domaine Roulot. Even with his 2020 vintage, Kei started to turn heads and draw attention to his wines with their incredible elegance and purity of fruit produced from modest “village level” sites. But it is of course with fruit sourced from the more premium Grand Cru sites that Kei has really started to redefine his own stylistic talents. With limited stocks due to arrive in the UK shortly, it seemed the perfect moment to review his second Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru release. 

Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023, Burgundy

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Kei Shiogai is another exceptional expression with incredible attention to detail, showing aromas of limestone minerality, white flowers, pear fruits, lemon grass, sweet herbs, and buttered white toast nuances. On the palate the wine is taut yet elegantly textured and densely layered with a notable chalky dry extract but also seamlessly creamy, harmonious, and balanced. A decidedly more serious terroir driven, linear, minerally infused expression of Corton-Charlemagne than some of the more buttery mainstream examples on the market. Undeniably profound and a real high point in Kei’s 2023 white range. Drink from 2025 to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96-97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Kei Shiogai wine are available on allocation from his exclusive UK importer, Musigny Wines. Contact: Andrew@musigny.wine