The De Schepper family owns five wine estates in Bordeaux as well as the De Mour negociant firm that is tasked with distributing their wines, more often than not, direct to international merchants and retailers. In my experience of tasting and reviewing their wines for the past decade, this is a firm that prides itself on its values, based on human expertise passed down through generations, technical mastery of all stages in the winemaking process, as well as upmarket product ranges developed via exclusive partnerships.
Within their product range, the special pure Cabernet Sauvignon cuvée of Château Haut Breton Larigaudière was created and named “Le Createur”, a literal translation of the family name of the owners “De Schepper”, a name of Flemish origin, in honor of Emile De Schepper, who bought the estate in 1964 and started the extensive renovation of the château. “Le Créateur” is an endless and tireless search tor the perfection of the personality of a specific vintage. I recently cracked a bottle of their 2015 vintage to assess how this pure Cabernet Sauvignon is looking after 10 years from vintage.
Chateau Haut Breton Larigaudiere Le Createur 2015, Margaux, 13.5% Abv.
This pure 100% Cabernet Sauvignon shows a beautifully complex and intricate aromatics of fresh violets, black cherry, dried bay leaf spice, red currants and black plum with hints of tilled earth, black tea and fresh tannery leather. The palate displays a beautiful crunchy freshness and definition with powerful linear tannins and a stony minerality supported by layers of creme de cassis and black berry fruits, a delicate wood spice, freshly brewed tea and delicate herbal notes on the long creamy finish. Drink this classy wine now and over the next 10+ years.
The viticultural scene of Bordeaux is an ever-evolving landscape with new boutique chateaux blossoming out of older historical sites, many within appellations that are slowly but surely rising in prominence as greater technology and knowhow is applied in new and unique ways to differing terroirs that are now being rediscovered, being capable of producing some exceptional classical Bordeaux reds and whites. One such boutique winery is Chateau de Malherbes, located in the Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux appellation that was historically incorporated into the Bordeaux Cotes group of appellations under the Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux regional umbrella.
Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux is now climbing in prestige and significance as quality focused pioneering boutique chateaux like Chateau de Malherbes slowly but surely focus on growing exceptional quality Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc on the varied soils of the plateau that rises up from the Garonne River, offering a variety of favourable terroirs situated on gravelly or calcareous terrain where clay predominates, making the vineyard sites perfectly suited to growing premium Merlot grapes.
The spacious modern tasting room at the chateau.
More uniquely, Chateau de Malherbes is a leader in redefining the wider “Bordeaux wine experience” producing not only exciting premium wines but also offering visitors, customers, and merchants a unique winery experience involving not only approachable immersive wine tourism but also a more educational involvement, something Bordeaux chateaux have long been criticised for neglecting in the past.
The ultra modern winery in Bordeaux.
With the Chateau de Malherbes winery project only coming to fruition as recently as 2014, co-owner Julia Lindholm Bereshchanskaya has focused on reshaping the winery’s brand image, wine tourism offering, gastronomy, and vision of excellence, while wine director Christophe Bedouet, who has been involved with the project since its inception in 2014, focuses on managing a skilled team of viticultural and oenological staff to produce a vibrant, quality focused range of chateau wines. Having worked in the USA for many years, Christophe brings a modern, forward-looking outlook to this boutique chateau where the winemaking team focuses on producing quality wines that showcase the finest elements of the estate’s terroir.
The fermentation cellarA view into the barrel maturation cellar.
I first visited this impressive modern winery in September 2023 just as the harvest was starting to come in and was seriously impressed by not only the high-tech cellar and its beautiful surrounding vineyard scenery, but also by the quality of wines being produced from this less internationally lauded region. I recently took the opportunity to retaste several of the chateau’s current releases available to the market and was suitably impressed by what I tasted.
Chateau de Malherbes 2018, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 14% Abv.
The 2018 Malherbes is a seductive blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc that was aged in a selection of new and older French oak barrels for 12 months. In the glass, this youthful blend is deep, dark, and opaque retaining a garnet-purple hue. One sniff of the perfumed aromatics suggests this is indeed a serious effort, with an expressive bouquet of pressed violets, sweet oak spices, cinnamon stick, plum liquor, crème de cassis, black cherry compote and subtle hints of mulberry, crushed rocks and a delicate but alluring vanilla pod dusting. The palate is ripe yet beautifully poised, tight grained but reassuringly giving after some time in the glass, where more textured layers of earthy black currant, tilled earth, salty black liquorice and baked black berries resonate across a long, fresh tangy finish. Powerful in essence, but also impressively supple and textured offering well managed creamy tannins that combine with impressive oak integration. Tasted seven years from vintage, this wine is still approaching its peak and whilst offering a depth of drinking pleasure now, this wine will reward another 5 to 6+ years of further cellaring.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau de Malherbes 2016, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 14.5% Abv.
The reputation of this vintage precedes any wine release and this impressive 2016 is a blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, with the components aged in new and aged French oak barriques for 12 months. Sourced from the best fruit of this 12-hectare estate on gravel and clay limestone soils, the aromatics burst out the glass with a rich, ripe expressive array of black berry, black plums, and savoury black cherry notes before hints of chargrilled meats, tilled earth, graphite and charcoal embers add to the complexity. True to the characterful and established quality of the vintage, the concentration is notable with rich intense black berry compote nuances that combine with black liquorice, toasted oak, crème de cassis and a long, textured savoury length embellished by hints of sweet cherry tobacco and vanilla pod spice. A dense, compact wine with plenty of dry extract, creamy soft spicy tannins but also an energetic freshness and polished mouthfeel. A serious wine that really does open up with decanting to reveal a quite compelling personality. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau de Malherbes Grand Vin 2015, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 14.5% Abv.
This impressive Grand Vin from the Chateau de Malherbes is a blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc that was aged for 18 months in specially selected new oak barrels from premium coopers Radoux and Seguin Moreau. On the nose, this opulent 2015 shows an impressively lifted and intricately perfumed aromatics brimming with violets and white blossom, black cherries, ripe blueberries and black currant nuances. The palate weight is sleek and sophisticated, supple, and elegant with a weightless concentration of black and blueberry fruits, earthy red currants, and tangy fresh mulberry notes. The classy oaking is beautifully integrated, melting into the concentrated berry fruits before hints of graphite, bitter cocoa, and pithy black berry compote shine on the finish. A beautifully classy wine that really shows the true pedigree of this boutique estate’s terroir. Drink now to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Chateau de Malherbes wines are available to merchants direct from the Chateau. Please contact Christophe Bedouet for current vintage availability and ex-cellar pricing.
The Van Biljon boutique winery owned by Anton and Julia Van Biljon lies on a small farm situated in the Polkadraai Hills ward of the Stellenbosch region, neighbouring other highly esteemed producers such as Reyneke Wines, Raats Family Wines and De Toren Private Cellar. The region is well known for its deep, fertile and well drained decomposed granite soils and the moderating cool sea breezes that blow in off False Bay, lying directly to the South of the winery. Meticulous viticultural practices yield pristine grapes with intense colour, concentrated fruit flavours and firm structured tannins.
I have been tasting and reviewing the impressive Van Biljon wines, made by famed winemaker Chris Keet, since the 2013 vintage. But the 2015 Cinq Blend always remained a blank spot in my tasting knowledge as the entire vintage had been rumoured to have been sold to a Gulf State airline for their first class menu after the wine received the coveted 5 Star Platters Award as well as the overall Platters Red Blend of the Year 2020 award in the Cape Bordeaux Blend category.
Tasting with winemaker Chris Keet at the Van Biljon cellar.
But finally, after almost 10 years since vintage, a small parcel of the famed 2015 vintage has arrived in the UK and I was lucky enough to get a sneak peek of this wine.
Vineyards just above the Van Biljon winery.
The 2015 vintage saw a mild start to the season evolve into a hot and dry ripening period in February and March. Judicious irrigation was implemented to try reduce stress levels in the vines and extend the overall ripening period. The cool daily sea breezes from the False Bay ocean played a pivotal role in maintaining lower stress levels in the vines, allowing top quality fruit to be harvest.
Van Biljon Cinq 2015, WO Stellenbosch, 15% Abv.
2.7g/l RS | 5.8g/l TA | 3.57pH
The 2015 Van Biljon Cinq is a classical Cape Bordeaux Blend consisting of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 17 Malbec, 12% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. This is an incredibly famed vintage in the Cape for good reason, forging some of the most notable wines in South Africa’s modern vinous history. The aromatics speak of a ripe, opulent harvest revealing notes of black currant compote, freshly tilled earth, sweet baking herbs, black cherry preserve, sweet black chai tea, cherry tobacco and fresh tannery leather. In the glass, the wine slowly unfurls, layer upon layer, playing a slow seduction game with creamy crème de cassis, savoury black plum, bruleed coffee beans, hints of milk chocolate and condensed milk nuances. The texture is wonderfully fine grained and harmonious, yet equally substantial, showing dry chalky mineral tannins, a super fresh vitally, and a corresponding density and concentration commensurate with this highly acclaimed vintage. Ten years on, many in the Cape still consider the 2015 vintage without equal, and this majestic Cape Bordeaux Blend from Van Biljon simply adds further credence to this vintage’s legendary status. Drink now or cellar for a further 8 to 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Van Biljon Wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Wood Winters wine merchants. Contact: andrew@woodwinters.com
2015 was another wonderful year all across European winelands, producing some truly exceptional wines in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Spain, Germany, and of course Italy. While longer aged Brunello’s and Barolo’s are still some way off being released, 2018 is the year for a whole long awaited tranche of 2015 Tuscan gems from Sassicaia to Ornellaia, Tignanello to Solaia.
The release of the 2015 vintage of Sassicaia from Tenuta San Guido captures the essence of this truly unique vine growing terroir, showcasing generous, refined black fruit aromas, power and balance, together with beautiful freshness and elegance.
There has been much excitement about 2015 in Tuscany which the estate of Tenuta San Guido confidently compares to the very famous 1985 vintage. Both shared similar climatic conditions – a mild winter that was followed by heavy rains in the spring and a hot summer, with higher than average temperatures in June and July, resulting in very healthy vineyards and excellent ripening across all varietals.
Tenuta San Guido has created what James Suckling calls “potentially one of the best Sassicaia’s in decades”, awarding it 98/100 points in his most recent tasting report. Antonio Galloni’s early Bolgheri reports for Vinous, confirms that the “warm, dry growing season produced generous, highly expressive wines.” Collectors and connoisseurs of Italian Super Tuscan blends are in for a very big treat this vintage.
The Wines
Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2016, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.
Made up of its usual blend of 30% Sangiovese and 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is Sassicaia’s answer to an earlier drinking wine. Deliciously bright and inviting, the nose is intensely aromatic with spring violets, cherry blossom, dried rose petals and a wonderful melange of raspberry, crushed red cherries and salty red liquorice. Crunchy and crystalline, the palate shows velvety soft chalky tannins, mouth wateringly fresh acids, beautiful purity and a corresponding amount of verve and vigour. One wonders what else you could possible hope for from a classy little wine like this. Drink from release and for 10+ years if well cellared.
(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2016, IGT Toscana, 14% Abv.
Officially the second wine of Sassicaia created in 2000, this 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot blend is always one of the wineries most sought after wines due to its exceptionally high quality, outstanding value for money on release and its impressive ability to age. The aromatics tip their hat to big brother Sassicaia, with a dense core of Cabernet Sauvignon cedar spice, violets, cassis, earthy black berries and subtle mineral graphite notes. There is an abundance of opulence, expressive plummy flesh, leafy black currant spice and the most seamless, polished mineral tannins imaginable. A structural reprise on the finish reveals juicy tart red berry and cranberry fruit notes which combine with chalky grippy tannins, ensuring a long, distinguished finish brimming with power, elegance and superb textural balance. Drink from 2020 until 2035+
Always exciting to taste this icon wine on release, none more so than in block buster quality years like 2015. First bottled commercially in 1968, this 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc blend comes from vineyards at 100 to 400 metres altitude, planted in soils rich in limestone and clay. The aromatics are instantly noticeable for their deeper, darker, riper, broodier fruit profile. Fairly closed and tight on opening, the perfume is a little shy but you can sense the depth and complexity waiting to emerge from beneath. So many notes of pithy black cherries, black currant, leafy black plum and a sappy, resinous fragrance from the Cabernet Franc component. The oaking is almost imperceptible, allowing the fruit and mineral terroir notes to take centre stage. The palate shows beautiful poise, elegance and harmonious balance, framing the red and black berry fruits with incredibly dense, creamy, velvety tannins. The acids are fresh and vibrant, embroidering the palate and keeping it crystalline and vital. Beautifully complex at this youthful stage, it remains imposing yet light on its feet, concentrated but energetic and pure. With such depth of fruit, intense structure and graphite minerality, this vintage looks set for a very long and distinguished road of evolution. A really outstanding effort. Drink from 2022 to 2045+
It’s vintage Port time again and while I have already done extensive commentary on the Niepoort 2015s, there have of course been some epic declarations from both the Symingtons (Warres, Dows, Graham, Cockburn) and the Fladgate Partnership (Taylor’s and Fonseca).
An agreed vintage year normally requires a certain degree of homogeneous grape quality across the lower, middle, and upper Douro. In 2015, it’s safe to say that the the upper Douro was in a league of its own, producing some of the best Ports since 2011.
One of these wines, the Stone Terraces vineyard, which is comprised of three parcels in a narrow curving valley, all of which are immediately adjacent; one faces north, known as “Cardenhos”, whilst the other two, face each other across the Sibio brook. Most of the southerly facing Malvedos vineyard were subjected to trying conditions in 2015, and it was the Old Vine Stone Terraces portion that were shielded from excessive heat, thus producing exceptional fruit.
The schist soils on the cooler exposures ensured that the Stone Terraces Cuvee performed yet again, as it did in its maiden 2011 vintage. Fruit was picked at an ideal maturity of 13.75 baume, and trodden for four hours in the new Symington lagares at Malvedos. The wine was then fermented at low temperatures to enhance the warm climate aromatics.
The Stone Terraces 2015 has subsequently emerged as one of the very best Ports of the vintage along with Niepoort, Noval, and Vesuvio. Seek it out and buy with confidence.
The Symingtons explaining the complicated 2015 vintage. Graham’s The Stone Terraces Viintage Port 2015, 20% Abv., Douro
Only the second time produced, the anticipation waiting to taste this wine was intense. But this warm dry vintage in the upper Douro delivers yet again. There is a sweet opulent nose of raspberries and cream, bramble berry, strawberry confit, and mocha wood spice nuances. Beautifully rich and concentrated, this wine offers up damson plum, liquorice, salty cassis and the most seductive creamy sweet mineral tannins in a pristine, textural, harmonious package. Finely integrated acids with high quality spirit, seamless fruit concentration and a very long, lingering, pin point finish make for a very smart vintage port indeed.
Another superb highlight from lasts weeks Art of Chablis Tasting comes from a highly renowned producer but from a more modest appellation. The William Fevre Chablis really stood out on the “Village level” tasting table, and in fact was more impressive than many of the 1er Cru Chablis being shown.
Winemakers predicted a good vintage across France in 2015 despite some producers being hit with a hailstorm on the eve of harvest. The Chablis 2015 vintage started off well and it was soon apparent that an early wine harvest was on the cards after the vines flowered in early June, followed by a long, hot and dry July and August. But, dreams of a good vintage were jeopardised by a hailstorm that hit several producers in Chablis on the 1st September, just before the harvest.
There was a fear of a lack of acidity in 2015’s wines. While all have crystalline purity, some do lack an element of tension and vivacity. The 2015 vintage will however be remembered as a sunny, fruit forward, correct vintage producing very accessible, customer friendly wines.
Domaine William Fevre Chablis 2015
The 2015 village Chablis has a dusty, chalky, austere, wet granite nose with a wonderful crystalline purity and impressive saline notes. Finely poised, the palate is fresh and crisp with a respectable line of acidity framing lovely green apple crunchy fruits, lemongrass, wet straw, pineapple and lime peel nuances. Like all the best 2015s, there is a potent marine, sea breeze influence on the finish of this impressively seamless, harmonious, well balanced wine.
