Fine Wine

The New Raats Family Wines High Density Eden Single Vineyard 2023 Wines Rated and Reviewed…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Eden range was originally held up as statement wines by Bruwer Raats and others as perfect examples of what the Cape’s best terroirs could yield with relatively young vines if they are planted on the correct sites, with the correct rootstocks at the correct density. ‘Quality by design’ was and remains Bruwer’s mantra as well as his answer to the Old Vine movement, which, however admirable the cause, started to steal all the limelight and all the wine critic column inches away from top producers “planting the old vines of the future” as Bruwer put it so succinctly. 

With first vintages released with the 2014 vintage, we roll the clock forward now to mark the release of the 2023 vintage, and they’re another cracking set of wines that are sure to sell out immediately on release both locally and internationally yet again.

Bruwer in London launching the Eden 2023 vintages.

Eden High-Density Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Polkadraai Hills, 12.5% Abv.

They don’t call Bruwer Raats the Chenin King for nothing! This incredible high-density Chenin Blanc comes from a small 0.6-hectare block planted in 2009 and was matured 60% in concrete egg and 40% in new oak. The aromatics are beautifully detailed with top notes of white peach, honeysuckle, white blossoms and dusty granitic minerality with subtle hints of wet straw, yellow apples and a leesy biscuit nuance. In the mouth, this majestic Chenin Blanc is broad and mouth coating, filling the palate with yellow stone fruits, peach and green apples, pithy phenolics and a classic Polkadraai Hills wet stone minerality on the long, lingering finish. This is another phenomenal Chenin Blanc release from Bruwer Raats, that comfortably sits amongst the country’s top examples. Drink on release and over the next 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Eden vineyard at sunrise in July 2025 with the chickens keeping the vineyard pest free and fertilised.

Eden High-Density Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2023, WO Polkadraai Hills, 13% Abv.

The 10th vintage of this incredible single vineyard Cabernet Franc can leave no doubts in any critics’ mind that this wine ranks among the finest Cabernet Franc reds produced anywhere in the world. Sourced from a tiny 0.2-hectare vineyard in the Polkadraai Hills, the fermentation sees a small amount of whole bunch fermentation before being matured in one new barrel for circa 10 months before a further passage of time in older used barrels. The aromatics are beautifully intense and seductive with fragrant perfumed notes of violets, cherry blossoms, lavender, and incense before a cornucopia of red and black berry fruits, pink musk, potpourri, and cranberry emerge. In the mouth, the full power and majesty of this impressive wine are laid bare for all to see, with a piercing small berry fruit concentration that’s tightly wrapped in a fresh, bright tangy acidity. Incredible focus and precision on display with subtle earthy hints of tilled earth, porcini mushrooms, led pencil, blood orange and ruby grapefruit nuances on the long velvety finish. A more sophisticated and polished Cabernet Franc you simply will not find. Drink on release and over the next 15 to 20 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Raats Vlag Vineyard Selection Polkadraai Hills Cabernet Franc 2023, WO Polkadraai Hills, 13.5% Abv.

The Raats maiden release Vlag 2022 Cabernet Franc cuvee took the market a little by surprise last year, but fairly swiftly, this wine gained a solid momentum and sold out very quickly. The grapes come from two Vlaeberg vineyards in the Polkadraai Hills, close to the Raats Family winery. One third was matured in concrete egg, one third in foudre and one third in oak barrels with a small percentage of new oak. The aromatics are fabulously lifted and perfumed, packed full of violets and rose petals, fresh pencil shavings, and dried herbs over notes of red currants, black currants, black cherry, and spicy cedar. The palate is tightly interwoven, the fruit, acid, and tannin balance simply seamless, boasting an impressive concentration and density that’s fine boned, incredibly detailed, and precise. This striking 2023 feels more integrated and ‘complete’ compared to the 2022 at the same moment in time, suggesting a very successful future lies ahead. Drink this beauty on release and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Raats Eden wines are imported into the UK by Alliance Wines and offered pre-release to private clients by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.

Taaibosch Releases It’s Highly Anticipated Crescendo 2021 Cape Bordeaux Blend…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

I’ve already gone on record for saying I truly believe that the top Cabernet Sauvignons, Cabernet Francs and Cape Bordeaux blends from the 2021 vintage will in future be recognised as some of the best wines produced by the Cape industry to date, surpassing the heights of even 1995, 2009, 2015 and possibly even 2017.

Many mainstream global wine critics who merely did a bit of a “cut and paste” operation on the 2021 scores will , I predict, eventually see the error of their ways and seek contrition, finally acknowledging that perhaps they got it wrong and under rated the vintage and its top wines. 

Taaibosch looking towards False Bay, July 2025.

It’s still early days but the highly acclaimed Taaibosch Crescendo 2021 Bordeaux blend is about to be released in the local South African market and in the UK in September. While some local South African critics have rated the wine already and described it as lacking some “profundity” and being too “tentative”, I think, once again, they have fallen into the trap of missing the wine’s innate delicacy, freshness, classism and elegance with subtle intensity and weightless concentration. Raw horse power and muscle does not necessarily make a wine great. The 2021s are most definitely not muscle men, but perhaps more well toned, well proportioned, lithe athletic gymnasts to use an alternative analogy.

Tasting with the Taaibosch team in July 2025.

Only time will tell. But when the winemaker tells you that the 2021 could be the finest wine they’ve ever produced, you need to take them at their word, especially when they tell you this while releasing their previous vintage (the 2020)! So not just a case of “my latest vintage is my greatest” because that’s what I need to sell! A true conviction.

Tasting the 2025 Taaibosch components from barrel.

Taaibosch Crescendo 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

A sleek, sophisticated blend of 62% Cabernet Franc, 28% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from Taaibosch yields up notes of earthy black currant, cedar spice, wet tobacco, tree bark, sun raisined red currant, dried herbs and subtle fynbos nuances. But it’s on the palate that the true pedigree of this classy blend reveals itself, where incredibly tight grained mineral tannins marry with bright, fresh, taut blue and black berry fruits, saline creme de cassis, sappy currants, damson plums and a mouth coating creamy mineral grip on the finish. Beautifully compact with pin point precise tannins balanced with a real sense of effortless harmony and purity. A simply astounding expression. Drink from 2026 to 2045+. (68,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Also tasted at Taaibosch…

Le Chant Red Blend 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

A delicious blend of 38% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah and token amounts of alternative cultivars like Sangiovese. Beautifully brambly and spicy showing earthy red currant notes. Slightly wild and savoury with hints of Christmas spices, raisined black cherries and a peppery creamy mineral finish. Beautifully balanced and already deliciously accessible. 

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Le Chant Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

Also from a vineyard in the Polkadraai Hills ward of Stellenbosch that has just turned 35 years old making it official “Old Vine”. The wine displays a creamy, ripe beautifully intense aromatics bursting with white peaches and cream, zesty green apples, pear and honeycomb. Plenty of yellow orchard fruit depth, mid palate fleshiness and granitic mineral intensity on the finish. A real delight. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Taaibosch and Le Chant wines are imported into the UK by Dreyfus Ashby. Contact Richard Kelley MW for trade allocations.

richard@dreyfus-ashby.co.uk

Boutique Winery Bruwer Vintners Reaches New Quality Heights with Their 2024 Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

In celebration of their Bruwer family heritage, cousins Bruwer Raats and Gavin Bruwer Slabbert created Bruwer Vintners in 2014.  Their guiding mission was to master South Africa’s heritage varietals, namely Pinotage, Cinsault and Chenin Blanc / Semillon blends to express their heritage and terroir in a modern interpretation.

The Bruwer Vintners’ white and red releases have been incredibly solid, well made, classical expressions from the very beginning, but from the 2024 vintage we see a notable, and quite frankly, unexpected step up in quality, focus and intensity. I visited the winery in July 2025 to taste but sadly Gavin wasn’t available for me to quiz him on how exactly he’s managed to dial up the quality of his entire range. But the quality shift is undeniable. But don’t just take my word for it, seek out these new releases and discover some incredibly exciting new wines. 

Bruwer Vintners Haarlem to Hope 2024, WO Polkadraai Hills, 13% Abv. 

A white blend of 75% Chenin Blanc and 25% Semillon, with a portion of the Chenin Blanc fermented and aged in concrete, differentiating the 2024 from previous vintages. The wine is incredibly mineral and smoky on the nose, full of crushed granite, dried herbs, fynbos, tangerine peel and crunchy green apples. In the mouth, this blend is delightfully cool, pure and precise on the palate with a real sense of confidence and harmony, a wine fully at ease with itself. Super tangy, fresh and bright, the crystallinity resonates in the wine with such purity, streamlined tension and focus. This is an incredibly accomplished white blend that benefits from its new maturation tweaking. Drink now to 2035+.  

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW) 

Bruwer Vintners Lone Wolf Cinsault 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 12% Abv. 

Old vine Cinsault from the 1953 Bellevue vineyard, this wine is always a star performer in the Bruwer Vintners range. Aged in two 500 litre barrels for 10 to 12 months, the 2024 is already incredibly perfumed and precise, bursting with violets and rose petals, potpourri, Turkish delight, blood orange and juicy ripe cranberries with an intricate undertone of granitic mineral spice. The oaking is very much an afterthought, the palate deliciously fresh, pure and vibrant with an incredible intensity and concentration that all melts together so seamlessly into a wonderfully complete wine. This 2024 rises to new levels of vibrancy, energy, and vivacity, showing off the very best components of this heritage Cinsault block. Drink now and over the new next 10 to 15+ years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bruwer Vintners Liberte Pinotage 2023, WO Polkadraai Hills, 13% Abv.

This new expression saw a reduction of the whole bunch portion to circa 15% with longer ageing in older barrels, with 18 months maturation allowing the wine to integrate and find a better balance. The results of these small stylistic tweaks reveal themselves on the nose and palate, the aromatics boasting an extra dimension of freshness and bright red berry fruit with hints of cranberry and succulent red cherry, red plums and red currants. Delicious brightness and energy, youthful vivacity and purity that truly champions this modern fruit forward styling of premium Pinotage. Drink on release and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bruwer Vintners Lone Wolf Syrah 2024, WO Polkadraai Hills, 13% Abv.

The 2024 sees a 100% whole bunch styling, fermented in open top fermenters before being aged in older 300 litre barrels for 12 months. This Karibib block yields and incredibly pure and intense expression of Syrah with dense black berry fruits, sweet black peppercorns, black olive tapenade and savoury, meaty bruleed oak spice notes. The palate is beautifully fresh and vibrant, creamy and mineral with such a beautiful weightless concentration, a deliciously chalky, creamy minerality that melts away into a sweet, savoury, red and black berry fruit concentration with gentle hints of maritime salinity and seashore kelp. The aromatics definitely trade on intense perfume and purity rather than savoury, smoky bruleed notes, which keeps the wine incredibly fresh, vibrant and energetic. A really mouth watering expression of Syrah from Bruwer Vintners that takes the quality up another notch. Drink now and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Bruwer Vintners wines are imported into the UK by Alliance Wines.

Sakkie Mouton Family Wines Dawn of the Salty Tongues Syrah 2024 Rated and Reviewed…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

This is the third red release from Sakkie Mouton, one of the Cape’s most exciting winemaking talents who seems to keep going from strength to strength. With a now well-established quality track record for his crisp, complex, saline white wines from the Weskus, his wines have become incredibly sought after including his red wines.

Simply speaking, you can sell a cultish brand once, maybe twice, but if it doesn’t deliver the quality collectors and connoisseurs expect that’s where it will break down. Sakkie’s followers are however true converts, buying and drinking his wines vintage after vintage, standing as a true testament to the authentic character and ever-increasing quality of his wines.

The Dawn of the Salty Tongues label is a reference to the rise of the West Coast as a new wine region and showcases divers picking grapes under the ocean, which contributes to the “salty” taste of the palate. “Salty Tongues” also happens to be Weskus slang for the rather spicy language some of the local farmers and fishermen are known to use on a regular basis!

Sakkie Mouton Family Wines Dawn of the Salty Tongues Syrah 2024, WO Oliphants Rivier, 12.86% Abv.

2.6g/l RS | 6.1g/l TA | 3.40pH

The Salty Tongues Syrah 2024 is a 100% Syrah red made from grapes sourced from vineyards in Vredendal located 25 kilometres from the West Coast Atlantic Ocean that were picked early morning to preserve freshness before being destemmed, with 30% of whole bunches lining the bottom of the open top fermenters. After fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in 500 litre barrels before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. Planted in 1999, these 26-year-old vineyards are starting to yield some incredible quality with striking aromatics of pressed violets and lavender, bramble berries and pomegranate before hints of black cherry, blood oranges, nori seaweed and bloody raw meat develop. This 2024 shows more dry extract, more substance, and more depth of fruit and oak spice than either of the previous two vintages. With incredible elegance, vivacious tangy acids and a silky plush depth, the palate never loses its mouthwatering red and black berry Weskus salinity that gently melts away into a concentrated, intense, piercing finish. This is a beautifully crafted red wine from Sakkie. Drink on release and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Sakkie Mouton Wines are imported into the UK for retail and private clients by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines and for On-trade and Scotland by Wood Winters.

Naude Family Wines Releases the Fourth Vintage of Their Langpad Old Vine Colombard 2023…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

With the never-ending search for new and exciting cultivars in South Africa continuing unabated, presumably it was only a matter of time before the Cape’s vignerons discovered the versatile potential of Old Vine Colombard beyond acting merely as a suitable distillation grape. Being widely planted up the Weskus (West Coast), Ian Naude managed to source some of the most expressive Old Vine fruit planted in 1983 from vineyards near Vredendal. The rest, as they say, is history. 

Now releasing his fourth vintage of Langpad, meaning the ‘long road’, the 2023 from Ian Naude has had some extra time in bottle which is why, perhaps more so than any of the previous three releases, the Langpad bears a striking resemblance to Greece’s Assyrtiko wines with a pronounced phenolic minerality and maritime salinity… though perhaps more in the style of Nemea or mainland Greece’s Assyrtiko expressions rather than those from the volcanic island of Santorini. 

Naude Langpad Old Vine Colombard 2023, WO Cape West Coast, 11.5% Abv.

A vintage renown for its concentration and fruit intensity, the 2023 Langpad Old Vine Colombard is at first quite reticent on the nose, showing aromatics of crushed granite, white flowers, dried herbs, yellow citrus, and waxy yellow apples before more pronounced notes of maritime sea spray, dried kelp and oystershell emerge. The fleshy glycerol concentration is more evident on the palate, that’s cool, crisp, and resplendently pure and fresh with a mouthcoating tangy acidity and complex hints of honeydew melon, pithy green apple and quince jelly. Quite a phenolic and spicy expression of Colombard that finishes with a saline wet stone mineral austerity that makes this white perfect for food matching. Start drink now and over the next 3 to 5 years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Rudger van Wyk’s New Dawn 2024 Solo Project Reviewed – Tasting His Maiden Red Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

After an illustrious few years as head winemaker at Stark-Condé in the Jonkershoek Valley, which also involved launching the dynamic joint venture of Kara Tara, in partnership with Jose Condé, in 2023 Rudger decided it was time to spread his wings and fly off to new pastures.

Following a succinct appointment process with Doolhof Winery in Wellington, he is now settled in there producing some very exciting wines for both Doolhof as well as himself. I recently review Rudger’s highly accomplished New Dawn Chenin Blanc 2024 (96/100 GSMW) and now take a look at two of his newly released reds.

New Dawn Red Blend 2024, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv. 

This more accessible red blend from Rudger van Wyk is made up of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Shiraz, 27% Grenache, 11% Cinsault and 5% Carignan. While youthful and incredibly willing, the aromatics are forward, lifted and generous showing a medley of red berry fruits, sweet red cherry, strawberry compote and creamy raspberry nuances. Texturally supple and very elegant, the vivacious acidity combines with a crunchy red berry fruit intensity to make this wine seriously delicious, with purity of fruit and silky elegance its true highlights. Accessible and juicy, this wine is good to savour on release and over the next 5 to 6 years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

New Dawn by Rudger van Wyk Dark Leap Red Blend 2024, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv.

Rudger van Wyk’s maiden red release from his New Dawn project is a tantalising Southern Rhone-style red blend of 58% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 17% Grenache and 5% Cinsault. A vibrant bright cherry red in the glass, the aromatics are incredibly pure and bright showing a crystalline vitality and precision. Incredibly perfumed and lifted, the nose is tightly packed with notes of lavender and white flowers, glacé red cherries, cranberry, and saline hints of black currant. Medium bodied, concentrated and intricately structured, there is a real core of energy to the wine driven by a tangy fresh acidity and tart bright red cherry and red currant fruits with silky soft powdery tannins and long, mouthwatering finish. This wine shows serious winemaking prowess with its weightless intensity, harmonious elegance, and a piercing focused length. Unforced and effortless, this is a cracking new label debut from Rudger that’s worth tracking down. Drink now to 2034+. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The New Dawn wines are imported into the UK by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.

The Long Awaited Fox’s Lair Cape Bordeaux Blend 2022 Finally Released by Helderberg Icon Winery Uva Mira…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Uva Mira recently announced the exclusive maiden release of the Fox’s Lair red – a Cabernet Franc led Cape Bordeaux Blend that seems destined to become one of the Cape’s modern classics.

“At dawn’s first light on the Helderberg mountain vineyard slopes, fleeting glimpses of the elusive Cape fox—Vulpes chama, Africa’s only true fox—are sighted within the wild pockets of Cape fynbos. With its silver-grey coat and black-tipped ears, this agile creature became the inspiration for the name Fox’s Lair.” ~ Christian Coetzee, Winemaker at Uva Mira

The wine is also a testament to Uva Mira’s enduring commitment to conservation and sustainable farming in harmony with nature. Cabernet Franc, celebrated for its aromatic finesse and structural poise, thrives in the cool, high-altitude vineyards of Uva Mira at elevations of between 350m and 500m above sea level.

“The Fox’s Lair cuvee brings together Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in an impressively composed wine that shows floral lift, fine tannins, and a notable mineral precision” according to Christian Coetzee.

Described as a “baby OTV” by Christian Coetzee, winemaker at Uva Mira.

Uva Mira The Fox’s Lair 2022 Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv. 

The maiden release of the Fox’s Lair is a delightful wine that winemaker Christian Coetzee described as a “baby OTV” when I tasted this new release with him for the first time. The blend is Cabernet Franc led with a 52% portion that’s supported by 48% of Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged in 35% new French oak barrels for 18 months. The 2022 is deliciously opulent, offering up attractive perfumed aromatics of red cherry pastille, raspberries, blueberry rock candy, black licorice, pencil shavings and flower petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, mouth-wateringly supple, velvety palate that’s vibrant and intense, revealing yet more layers of blue and black berry fruit concentration that is framed by seamlessly integrated oaking, a vibrant acidity and silky mineral tannins. Texturally accessible and immediately generous, this new Cape Bordeaux blend over delivers. A really very, very delicious wine. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Uva Mira wines are imported into the UK by Museum Wines and the RSP for the Fox’s Lair is £38.99pb.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Reveal Two Exciting New Releases – Tasting their Sophisticated Reserve Merlot 2022 and Chardonnay 2023…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

In an age before the Young Guns and Swartland Rhone Rangers, the region of Stellenbosch was king apparent. Seen as the most premium of wine regions close to Cape Town, Stellenbosch was also the historical home of some of the earliest land grants and established wine estates once you moved beyond the limits of the Constantia Valley. While the fortunes of the Stellenbosch region and its top producers may have ebbed and flowed over the decades, the mid to late 1990’s definitely marked the last high-water mark for many of the region’s top producers. One name that was and still remains synonymous with top quality wine production is Thelema Mountain Vineyards, located next to Tokara Estate and just on the other side of the valley from Delaire-Graff.

The famed Thelema Merlot Reserve.

The past successes and established fame of Thelema might have been slightly overshadowed by the advent of the new wave of Young Gun producers, but looking at the estate today, the Thelema Estate is once again producing some of the best quality wines in Stellenbosch. With the global spotlight well and truly back on Stellenbosch internationally, now is the time for its producers to reassert the premium winemaking proposition the region is so blessed to possess.

The Thelema Chardonnay 2023 is one of the top Stellenbosch expressions on the market.

Many producers have put up their hand to lead the charge and Thelema is most definitely one of them. With several new red and white Thelema releases about to hit the market, I took a look at two of their true classics… their Chardonnay 2023 and their Merlot Reserve 2022. Reviews on the Rabelais 2022 and The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 to follow soon.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Chardonnay 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

Made from vines planted in 1989, 2000 and 2009 on decomposed granitic Hutton soils using clones CY3 and CY5, the wine was fermented and matured in 228 litre French oak barrels for 10 months, around 35% new oak with the balance all in multiple passage barrels. This crystalline 2023 Thelema Chardonnay simply shimmers in the glass with a canary yellow pale gold and just the faintest of green tinges on the rim. The aromatics are delightfully enticing, offering a deliciously complex bouquet of lemon blossom, lime peel, tangerine, pithy white citrus, green apple rock candy and delicately savoury biscuit notes that combine seamlessly with a stony granitic hint of reduction. On the palate, the incredibly pithy, mineral, bitter lemon and lime cordial character is seriously mouthwatering with an underlying wet stone minerality, a classically taut steely mouthfeel and a long, bracingly fresh drying finish. This is a seriously grown-up Burgundian-styled expression of Chardonnay showing pinpoint purity combined with a pronounced saline, mouth-watering persistence. I simply love it! Drink on release and over the next 5 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

5.1 g/l TA | 3.5pH

The Thelema Reserve Merlot is aged for 18 months in 55% new French oak barrels and always offers up that extra bit of complexity and depth that is so often lacking on Merlots in the Cape. The vines, planted in 1988 and 2000 are in the prime of their life and confidently offer up a perfumed aromatics of oregano and thyme herbs, potpourri, and mint leaf before richer, more opulent notes of freshly baked cherry crumble, caramelized red plums and earthy black currant emerge from the glass. Plenty of youthful energy abounds, with the sweet sappy cedar and delicately toasted vanilla pod oak spices leading your palate down a path of seduction, where fruit purity is paramount and the soft, silky, fine-grained mineral tannins are neatly hemmed in by bright, integrated, refined acids and tangy red cherry and macerated strawberry pastille fruits. This is a wine of balance and elegance with its own unique sense of supple, understated intensity and textural harmony. This is already an absolute joy to drink now but hold on to your hat as this ‘Reserve’ beauty will shift gears in 3 to 5 years’ time and offer up an altogether more succulent, complex expression. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Thelema wines are available to the trade in the UK from Enotria & Coe.

The Premium Boutique Winery DuMOL Focusing on Exceptional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Production in the Russian River Valley…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The DuMOL winery was founded in 1996 and is focused on crafting highly nuanced, vineyard-focused Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from distinctive sites in the cool-climate Russian River Valley. Winegrower and Partner Andy Smith leads a small and experienced team at DuMOL, where they craft wines with depth, clarity and elegance through attention to detail in the vineyards and vintage-specific winegrowing. 

DuMOL believes the best fertilizer is the footsteps of the farmer and is dedicated to a portfolio of estate and grower-partner vineyards primarily within a 16-kilometre radius. Expanding upon twenty-five years of experience, DuMOL also grows and produces some small-lot Syrahs, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, and Mencía from some of the most impressive vineyards in Sonoma and Napa. The full DuMOL portfolio is released through allocations to the mailing list, with select wines distributed to top restaurants worldwide. In the UK, the wines are distributed to the on and off trade by Raeburn Fine Wines and I recently caught up with Andy Smith to taste through the spectacular current releases.

“The 2022s were lighter styled wines initially that really put on weight during elevage.” – Andy Smith

DuMOL Chardonnay Highland Divide 2022, Russian River Valley, 14% Abv.

A rich opulent and expressive aromatics generously offering sweet lemon cordial, toasted pistachios, pecan pie, honey and salted caramel notes. Full, broad and fleshy on the palate with immediate concentration intensity, smokey wet stone minerality, grilled nuts, yellow grapefruit confit and toasted vanilla pod spice on the finish. Impressively fresh, tangy and picante. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard Isobel 2022, Sonoma Coast, 13.5% Abv.

Rich expressive aromatics with a toasty, brûléed aromatics with sappy spicy oak, pithy lemon peel, gravelly minerality and dry roasted nuts. The palate is taut and tightly wound but still offers up notable depth and concentration, spicy lemon confit, vanilla pod spice, and dried herbs, finishing with elegance, harmony and poise. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard 2022, Carneros – Napa Valley, 13.5% Abv.

A very complex aromatics offering up complex notes of sweet tangy lemon, smoky yellow stone fruits, salted toffee, green tea and a delicate vanilla pod kiss. Beautiful weight of fruit greets the palate with a creamy, plush, harmonious breadth of glycerol fruit, lemon oil, white peach, crystallised green apples and salted pistachios. This is undoubtedly a profound, layered, complex glass of very fine cool climate Chardonnay that makes absolutely no effort to hide its obvious greatness. Simply superb. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Pinot Noir Highland Divide 2022, Russian River Valley, 13.5% Abv.

A beautifully seductive, perfumed Pinot Noir nose brimming with musk, rose petals and lilac fragrance alongside sweet earthy red currant berry fruit, red plum, bramble berries and blood orange. A seemless entry makes way for a broad, silky, sensual mouthfeel boasting saline red and tart black berry notes, raspberry herbal tea, pomegranate and vibrant yet harmonious ruby grapefruit depth that lingers on a cool, finessed finish. This has classy Pinot written all over it! Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Pinot Noir Macintyre Estate Vineyard 2022, Sonoma Coast, 13.5% Abv.

The aromatics display a beautifully elegant restrained intensity, offering up subtlety and delicacy. There are soft touch aromatics of sun dried cranberry, red cherry, bramble berries and pomegranate with a subtle savoury bresaola hint. The palate reveals a regal structure and power, stony mineral tannins over fine grained, taut, spicy black fruits, supported by the most seamlessly integrated acids. The start and finish are hard to define. Simply beautiful, serious Pinot Noir. Drink now to 2040.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Pinot Noir Bressay Estate Vineyard 2022, Sonoma Coast, 13.5% Abv. 

This cuvee shows a decidedly sweeter fruit aromatics full of red currant, earthy red plum, and ripe pomegranate notes. Fruit forward and opulent, the palate follows with pristinely pure red and black berry fruits, silky mineral tannins and a long, exotic Asian five spice finish. The ripe, slightly sappy red fruited aromatics marry well with a delicately smoky, stony textured palate with great persistence, elegance and length. Very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Pinot Noir Finn 2022, Russian River Valley, 13.5% Abv. 

The initial reaction to nosing this wine is its obvious restraint and classicism. The aromatics are deeper and darker with lovely savoury bramble berry fruits, cured meats, blood orange, citrus oil and subtle pomegranate nuances. The palate shows a fine tension and structure with a subtle line of salinity and a vibrantly tart underlying acidity. The palate balance is notable, the tannins tightly interwoven into a classically restrained broody savoury fruit profile. Plenty of depth on display here, making for a very serious expression. Drink 2026 to 2040.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

DuMOL Meteor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Coombsville, Napa Valley, 14.5% Abv.

This is a classy Cabernet Sauvignon fully loaded with sweet tobacco, black chai tea, cocoa, black currant and black cherry kirsch nuances. The texture is full and mouth-filling, but also beautifully silky, supple and creamy revealing all the power, minerality and spice you’d hope for but all supported by a seamlessly harmonious red and black berry fruit intensity. A finely honed wine with balance, elegance and poise. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Parent Presents an Impressive Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots Vertical at Their Cellars…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Domaine Parent has long been a leading producer of premium wines in Burgundy. With a history going back many generations, Etienne Parent was rumoured to have sold wine to Thomas Jefferson back in 1787. Moving to the modern era, Domaine Parent is recognised as one of the first growers to sell their production in bottle rather than in bulk. Now run by 12th generation custodian Anne Parent, the domaine continues to produce some of the most eye catching wines in Burgundy and specifically in Pommard.

With the domaine’s vineyards certified organic and biodynamic, Domaine Parent aspires only to precisely express the balance between power and finesse and, of course, the unique essence of each vineyard. The result is wines that, due to their unique character, find a prominent place on the gastronomic tables of the world alongside other great Burgundy wines. During my last visit to the domaine in November 2024, Anne very kindly presented an incredible vertical of Premier Cru Les Epenots. Their Pommard 1er Cru “Les Epenots” comes from Domaine Parents own vineyard plot where old vines of 53 years of age rub shoulders with 26-year-old vines on a clay-limestone soil to reveal the true power and expression of Pommard Pinot Noir at its best.

Anne Parent

After manual harvesting carried out with the utmost care, the grapes are meticulously sorted on tables, one of which is a vibrating sorter. Subsequently, the bunches are destemmed and the berries macerated in a cold soak for three to five days. Temperature controlled fermentation, punching down and pumping over two to three times a day accompany the winemaking process. In total, the wine remains in the vat for 18 to 20 days. Then, the wines are aged for 16 to 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% to 50% of which are new, before being bottled at the estate.

Premier Cru Les Epenots 2017 to 2023 Vertical:

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2023

40% whole bunch, 50% new French oak. A fabulously fragrant expression bursting with life, packed full of perfumed violets, creme de cassis, black maraschino cherry and blueberry compote. The chalky candied pink musk nuances make this an incredible complex and compelling offering with seamless limestone tannins and a fantastically intense finish. A true classic for the vintage.

(Wine Safari Score: 93-94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2022

40% Whole bunch and 50% new French oak. Creamy, dense and plush with black cherry and damson plum spice. Full, harmonious, creamy and broad. A stunning expression. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2021

100% destemmed. Explosive aromatics! The perfume and lift is turbo charged, full of cherry blossom, cassis, oyster shell, and black berry. The texture is linear, taut and fresh with a seductive texture, pinpoint polished tannins and an incredibly fine grained, compact structure. Wow!

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2020

40% Whole bunch in 50% new French oak. Dense, dark and richly fruited with salty cassis, savoury plum and bramble berry fruits with a hint of tilled earth. The acids are soft, the tannins sweet and the texture open knit, fleshy and generous with a long, brûléed, creamy finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2019

50% Whole bunch. From a warm vintage, it’s very easy to taste. Tightens up a bit but still another very attractive wine with red and black fruits, chocolate, earth and savoury cured meats. Intense with subtle truffle nuances and a creamy generous concentration. An easy to appreciate expressive wine.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2018

Normal crop, but a more austere, classical vintage. Complex earthy nose full of gunsmoke, tilled earth and earthy red currant fruits with a subtle savoury tertiary complexity. Compact mid palate, supple acids, soft stony mineral tannins with a polished savoury, meaty finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2017

Beautifully bright and expressive with an earthy hint, savoury black currant, raspberry and tart tangy acids with impressive energy, vibrancy and an exotic high toned finish. Drinking beautifully now.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)