Granite

Mullineux Wines Releases Another Classical Lineup of Their Swartland Single Terroir Wines – Part 2: Tasting the New Release Syrah 2022 Reds…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Following the atypically long and cool 2021 vintage which made for some iconic red wines, the Swartland weather seems to have returned to its more usual pattern of hot and dry growing conditions for 2022. The region saw good winter rains and then the return of some heat spikes during verasion from January to March… “intermittent spikes more than heat waves” Chris Mullineux explained, followed by cooler evenings which helped mitigate some of the earlier daytime heat. Generally picked later than average – late February compared to early February due to the later start – the vintage is widely regarded as a great success in the Swartland.

All wines were tasted from Zalto Bordeaux glasses and reviewed over the course of three days.

Mullineux Granite Jakkalsfontein Syrah 2022, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

2.2g/l RS | 5.5g/l TA | 3.67pH

The fruit for the 2022 GRANITE Syrah hails from bush vines planted in the decomposed Granitic soils of the Paardeberg and this wine has become the Single Terroir red most synonymous with gorgeously perfumed aromatics, freshness and length. These characteristics are mainly driven by each vine having to work intensely hard to get to the water source seated deep within the GRANITE soil structure. The GRANITE Syrah was hand-harvested on 21st and 22nd of February 2022 with yields of five tons/ha, which translated to 28HL/ha. In the cellar, the whole bunches benefitted from the protection of a cool early morning picking and were put into 500L French oak open top fermenters. Once crushed by foot, the indigenous fermentation process started, and very gentle extraction was achieved by doing punch-downs by hand. To accentuate the refined tannin structure of its GRANITE terroir origin, the wine was given skin contact for 28 days before being gravitationally drained and then pressed back into the same vessels for malolactic fermentation and further maturation. The 2022 was matured for 12 months in French oak 500L barrels of which 50% was new, followed by 10 months in 2000L Foudre. Once bottled, the wine was aged for another eight months before it was released.

Made with fruit from a warmer vintage, Chris Mullineux says it was a ripe year but certainly nothing unusual for the Swartland – certainly more normal than the 2021 vintage conditions. On these deeper granitic soils, the vines grow larger, and the canopies are bigger and wider, shading the fruit, resulting in a more perfumed offering. The aromatics are certainly wonderfully fragrant and lifted with exotic notes of violets, lavender, and potpourri spice with a lovely melange of red and black berry fruits, pink musk, red peppercorns, and subtle orange rind hints. The palate is sleek and super elegant, pithy even, with plenty of dry extract, a chalky tannin grip and a harmoniously intense finish. Plenty of richness and creamy elegance but perhaps a little less taut, severe, and mineral than this vineyard normally presents in youth. Another very pretty expression. (405 cases produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Kasteelsig Syrah 2022, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

1.6g/l RS | 5.1g/l TA | 3.82pH

Grown on the IRON soils of the rolling red hills surrounding Malmesbury, this organic vineyard is well-established on the clay and gravel-rich Koffieklip soils that are good at holding water. The soil-bed becomes generous during primary growth in the spring, but then around veraison time the clay in the soils stops releasing moisture and the vine compensates during this quick ripening phase by making the smallest grapes of the three terroirs. This factor, combined with the lush canopy and medium-thick skins of the berries play a very important role in the natural construct of a Syrah with round tannins, an incredible complex palate and deep fragrance. The grapes were hand-harvested on 8th of February 2022 while the morning was still cool and yielded 4.5 tons/ha, which translated to 22HL/ha. In order to accentuate the IRON terroir, the grapes were foot-stomped as 100% whole- clusters into open top 500L barrels where hand punch downs took place to encourage natural and very gentle extraction. The fermentation cycles completed with indigenous yeast and after a further four weeks of maceration, the wines were racked and pressed to these original vessels for its maturation period. This wine was aged for 12 months in French oak 500L barrels, of which 50% was new, followed by another 10 months in 2000L Foudre and eight months of aging in bottle before its release.

The first thing I noticed about this wine is the incredibly small production volume, a mere 210 cases in 2022, which Chris confirms is the smallest production volume to date. Much of this was due to very strict grape selection as well as the vineyard still struggling in general to come to terms with the hangover and long-term effects of years of drought. Like the Granite Syrah, this cuvee shows a slight departure from is normal broody, earthy, meaty, bloody Northern Rhone style. Instead the aromatics are gracefully peppery with layers of damson plums, black berries, violets, lavender, and red bramble berry notes. Finally, after time in the glass, a slight undertone of blood and iron emerges, but they are by no means as dominant as normal, with the palate decidedly round and fleshy, layered with blue and black berry fruits, sleek integrated acids, and delightfully firm, polished tight grained tannins. The finish shows hints of salty liquorice, coffee bean, a subtle sapidity, and chargrilled charcuterie nuances. A rather riper, more elegant expression of the Iron cuvee that retains a critical amount of its archetypal old-world charm.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2022, WO Swartland, 14% Abv.

1.8g/l RS | 5.2g/l TA | 3.80pH

These very special and characterful grapes grown on the Schisty slopes of the Kasteelberg or “Castle Mountain”, showcase the Mullineux’s estate Roundstone, and its tremendous ability to define Syrah grown on SCHIST soils. These rocky soils limit vine size and so the clusters and individual grapes in turn remain smaller with a higher skin to juice ratio, offering denser, more brooding tannins. The grapes were hand-harvested between 14th and 15thof February 2022 with a yield of 4.3 tons/ha, which translated to 26HL/ha. Safeguarded from the high-summer Swartland sun in February, the SCHIST Syrah was picked during the cool morning and the 100% whole bunches were immediately foot-crushed into 500L barrels. Only natural yeasts took the wine through its fermentations and only hand plunging were performed for completely gentle extraction – just enough to keep the cap wet. After four weeks it was racked and pressed back to the same open top barrels. This completed the tannin development and allowed its dark perfume to flourish. The SCHIST Syrah 2022 spent 12 months in 50% new and 50% 4th fill 500L French oak barrels and then another 10 months in 2000L Foudre before being bottled unfiltered.

The production quantity of the Schist 2022 was closer to the long-term average with 482 cases produced. The aromatics are wonderfully seductive and sophisticated, showing complex red and black berry fruit notes, violets, rose petals, fynbos, white pepper, before subtle hints of salted caramel, black berry compote and vanilla pod spice. Often a wine that is very showy in its youth, this 2022 has a certain purity, elegance, and classicism to it, but as Chris points out, also “a certain appealing Rhoney wildness that you don’t always find on the Schist”. An incredibly balanced and complete wine, there are complex notes of fynbos, garrigue, dried herbs, black berries, cured meats, and black peppercorns tempered with a seductively generous vanilla pod spice. This wine is a pyramid of elegance, power, and precision, with its massive textural stone construction blocks just slotting into one another that little bit more tightly and more precisely than with the Granite or Iron cuvees, revealing an architecturally detailed wine with a very impressive fruit-acid balance, flavour purity, and a notable palate intensity. A very serious and accomplished benchmark effort for the vintage.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Wines are imported into the UK by Liberty Wines and are available retail on request from specialist South African merchant Museum Wines.

Mullineux Wines Releases Another Classical Line-up of Their Swartland Single Terroir Wines – Part 1: Tasting the New Release Chenin Blanc 2023 Whites…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

After the atypical vintage conditions of 2021, the Swartland seems to have returned to its more usual pattern of hot and dry growing seasons for 2022 and 2023. In 2022, the region saw good winter rains and then the return of some heat spikes during verasion from January to March… “spikes more than heat waves” as Chris Mullineux explained, followed by cool spells which helped mitigate the earlier heat. Generally picked later compared to average, late February compared to early February due to the later start. But as Chris points out, “Chenin Blanc, and to a certain degree Syrah as well, are more drought avoiding cultivars rather than drought resistant, being able to ripen their fruit earlier and quicker as opposed to just coping well with a long, dry hot harvest.”

The 2023 season also saw good winter rains above average and the season started pretty late, leading to a warm, dry vintage. From Veraison, the days were mostly over 30c, and every day was warm, but the evenings were cooler. A classic Swartland vintage. All reds were picked long before the storms hit the Cape when some Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek producers still had some late ripening red varieties hanging on the vines.

Tasting with Chris Mullineux

All wines were tasted from Zalto Bordeaux glasses and reviewed over the course of three days after opening.

Mullineux Granite Eikelaan Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Swartland, 14% Abv.

1.8g/l RS | 6.5g/l TA | 3.3pH

Hailing from a 47-year-old dry land bush vine vineyard named Eikelaan (“lane of Oak trees”), the GRANITE Chenin Blanc, is the Mullineux’s highest altitude Granite soil vineyard on the Paardeberg. Due to its root formations being able to travel quite deep in the decomposed granite terroir, the canopies remain full and provide cool shade to both the fruit and the vines, thus safeguarding them from temperature fluctuations and sun. This in turn culminates in a Swartland Chenin Blanc with great elevated freshness, retention of perfume and linear ageing. The grapes were harvested on the 16th of February 2023 with a yield of 4 tons/ha, which translated to 24HL/ha. Grapes were harvested by hand in the cool early morning hours, the grapes were then whole bunch pressed to barrel and the juice handled oxidatively, ensuring longevity of the wine once in bottle. Primary and secondary fermentation completed its natural respective cycles without any interference, after which minimal SO2 was added and, in line with their ethos, no further additions were made. The wine was left on the lees in its respective barrels until spring, then racked and blended just before the 2024 vintage and bottled unfiltered. The GRANITE Chenin Blanc wine was matured for 10 months in 225L French oak barrels.

This beautiful 1976 old vine Chenin Blanc serves up a wonderful array of flavours in this “classic Swartland vintage” in 2023. Normally lean, reductive and incredibly tight grained and mineral, this year’s expression of the Granite Chenin Blanc boasts a wealth of rich yellow stone fruits and plenty of white flowers, fynbos, sour plum, peach and yellow citrus perfume. There is definitely more density, palate breadth and depth while retaining its telltale linear, taut, mineral demeanour. Despite being a turbo charged expression, the 2023 Granite Chenin Blanc still has the highest acidity of the three single terroir wines, finely balancing intense bruised yellow orchard fruit and orange marmalade notes on the palate. The finish is super pure and concentrated, deliciously tangy and superbly balanced. A real beauty to drink now and over the next 10 to 15+ years. (469 cases produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Rondomskrik Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.

1.9g/l RS | 5.6g/l TA | 3.4pH

The ripening phase of the IRON Chenin Blanc bush vine vineyard is always ahead of their other single terroir Chenin Blancs and the 2023 vintage was no exception, producing the steadfast natural extract, balanced acidity, and alluring texture that they’ve grown accustomed to receiving from the Koffieklip soils where these vines live. This very special vineyard, now exclusively farmed for the IRON Chenin Blanc by the Mullineux team, is situated on the rolling hills outside of Malmesbury, enjoys cool nights and mild days during the growing season, which further contributes to the small and concentrated grapes of this Chenin Blanc. The grapes were hand-harvested on 2nd and 3rd of February 2023 with a yield of 4 tons/ha, which translated to 24HL/ha. This vintage being only the third ever release of the IRON Chenin Blanc, was managed in the cellar with the same attention to detail and careful handling of the delicate and tiny yield, as all our other wines. Both the primary and secondary fermentations spontaneously started and finished with indigenous yeast and a very small amount of Sulphur was added once the natural settling of the wine had completed. The wine was matured for 21 months in 225L French oak barrels.

Only the third vintage of the Iron single terroir Chenin Blanc produced (with the Quartz vineyard still going into the Old Vine White blend), this vineyard grown on a little knowl or hill, with persistent winds making for naturally small berries with a notable richness and ripeness, and also making this the earliest ripening of all the single vineyard sites. The aromatics are once again loaded with plenty of stone fruit complexity, beautifully perfumed with fragrant white flowers, honeydew melon, waxy orange peel, pineapple rock candy and a seductive soap stone minerality. A very confident wine showing great palate symmetry, a tight core of yellow fruits and hints of savoury lees, finishing with a lovely cool, lime lemon peel pith on the tangy fresh finish. A vibrant, harmonious wine that once again shows the highest levels of dry extract. Drink on release and over the next 10+ years. (506 cases produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Swartland, 14% Abv.

1.9g/l RS | 6.3g/l TA | 3.35pH

The home of Mullineux, Roundstone Farm, has become synonymous with their SCHIST soils, where these Chenin Blanc bush vines flourish due to the well-suited appellation, as well as being consistently sustainably farmed by the Mullineuxs. The rocky soils limit vine size and so the clusters and individual grapes in turn remain smaller with a higher skin to juice ratio. This contributes to the structure of this wine, and with each vintage, mirrors the freshness and pure sunshine that define their SCHIST Chenin Blanc. The grapes were hand-harvested between 7th and 8th of February 2023 with a yield of 5 tons/ha, which translated to 30HL/ha. Carefully picked during the cool daybreak, the fruit was whole bunched pressed into barrel where fermentation started spontaneously. Once all the natural yeasts and microbes completed their predestined purpose, the wine was left to voluntarily settle on its own. This Chenin Blanc spent seven months on its lees in barrel, ensued by racking, blending and unfiltered bottling to further showcase its Swartland SCHIST characteristics. The wine was matured for 21 months in 225L French oak barrels.

Produced from grapes grown in a vineyard just below the Mullineux’s main house on the Roundstone property on shallow rocky soils, with much smaller “bonsai-style” bush vines yielding small grapes loaded with extra phenolics and more exposure to the sunlight. The aromatics are rich, exotic, and intense, packed full of white and orange citrus, fynbos, nectarine, honey, white peaches, and juicy honeydew melon nuances. As Chris says, you can definitely taste the sunshine on the grapes with this 2023 Schist. The palate is equally intense and concentrated, boasting layer upon layer of peach, tangerine, and sour yellow plum fruit before a zesty, vibrant acidity kicks in to add freshness and extra frame to the mouthfeel. Finishing with a subtle leesy, buttered white toast complexity, this is definitely a very special premium Chenin Blanc release from the Mullineuxs. Drink on release and over the next 10 to 15+ years. (361 cases produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Wines are imported into the UK by Liberty Wines and are available retail on request from specialist South African merchant Museum Wines.

Mullineux Wines Release a Trio of 2021 Single Terroir Syrahs That Could Redefine a New Level of Quality in the Swartland…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Mullineux Wines run by Chris and Andrea Mullineux is one of the most respected quality producers in South Africa as further evidenced by their recent inclusion in the Top 5 Wineries of South Africa poll conducted by Winemag.co.za. With their Signature red and white range only released onto the market as recently as 2008, and their Single Terroir Series wines first released in 2010, they have wasted little time in elevating their wines to some of the most sought-after in the Swartland and the Western Cape.

With Andrea Mullineux in London recently, I caught up with her over lunch to taste what she considers are her finest expressions of Mullineux Syrahs to date. With the Swartland experiencing a very long, cool, atypical vintage, I was intrigued to see what all the hype was about.

Mullineux Single Terroir Syrah 2021s:

Mullineux Granite Jakkalsfontein Syrah 2021, 13.5% Abv.

2.2g/l RS | 5.7g/l TA | 3.70pH

Beautifully taut and tight knit with pinpoint aromatics of crushed granite, gravel, delicate violet and lily perfume, juniper berries and subtle broody black berry fruit notes. The minerality and sappy herbal spices bristle in the glass with an incredibly fine-grained palate with delicately drying, chalky, satin textured tannins that will ultimately come to define this incredible vintage and its astounding weightless focus, dry extract power, cool freshness and seductive finesse. This is a truly exceptional, awe inspiring creation that pushes new quality boundaries for tannin management and palate precision. Drink from 2024 to 2044+.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2021, 13.5% Abv.

2.5g/l RS | 5.5g/l TA | 3.78pH

This beautiful Schist vintage is a real stunner, a gorgeous head turner that oozes quality, confidence and class. Deep, dark and multi-layered, the aromatics boasts complex notes of pressed pink blossoms, Parma violet candies, creme de cassis and saline black berry with delicate notes of cigar ash, graphite, and a concertinaed liquid mineral spice. Fabulously deep, tightly wound, and tight knit at its core but still incredibly, displays its own stylish opulence, expressive character and generosity without compromising the delicately dry tannin extract intensity on the finish. A beautifully spellbinding, seductive expression of Syrah that is sure to take on new dimensions of textural and flavour complexity with extra time in bottle. Drink from 2024 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Kasteelsig Syrah 2021, 13.5% Abv.

1.8g/l RS | 5.5g/l TA | 3.80pH

Another incredibly intense, densely textured, finely crafted wine displaying a uniquely individual terroir personality of damp earth and iron from the koffeeklip soils, black liquorice and black olive tapenade with saline cassis and black berry, graphite and oyster shell nuances. The beauty and precision on the palate is spectacular and this is where you really get to witness the compact, dry extract density of the Iron vineyard combined with the cool, intense, highly finessed tannin structure of the 2021 vintage. This is a simply sublime composition of classical terroir-driven Syrah that really stops you in your tracts with its utter majesty and poise. Possibly the finest Iron Syrah produced since 2010. Drink from 2024 until 2044+.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Mullineux wines are imported into the UK by Liberty Wines and available retail from South African fine wine specialist Museum Wines.

Assessing the New Releases from Mullineux Wines – Part 2: Tasting the Single Terroir 2020 Syrah Reds…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 4 Comments

The Mullineuxs have put an immense amount of blood, sweat and tears into creating their Mullineux Old Vine White Blend and their Mullineux Syrah. With the latest releases in 2022, we see both wines rising to unseen level of quality and the 2021 Old Vine White is definitely their most distinguished creation to date. But these wines only tell half the story. Much of the rise in quality of these larger production “estate” wines from a blend of vineyard sites can be attributed to the knowledge and expertise acquired over the past decade of producing the more niche Mullineux Single Terroir wines.

With the 2020 red Syrah releases, the Mullineuxs have been granted permission from all farmers and vineyard owners involved to use the actual farm names on all the labels for the first time across the range. Previously, only the Mullineux Schist wines carried the Roundstone designation on the front labels. With all the experience and expertise has also come an extra confidence for the Mullineuxs to trumpet the site-specific origin of these wines, all of which now show noticeably specific vineyard traits and similarities from their terroirs year after year. I caught up with the Swartland power couple Chris and Andrea Mullineux recently and tasted through their new range of wines together.

The Single Terroir Reds:

Granite Syrah Jakkalsfontein (100% of a set block from the Jakkalsfontein farm recently bought by Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst)

Schist Syrah Roundstone (the Mullineuxs own farm vineyard)

Iron Syrah Kasteelsig (Using same 18 rows that have been contracted since 2008)

The 2020 vintage had more warm spells with a roughly one week later picking start date than usual with more warmth than 2021, but which still saw very even ripening across all vineyards with absolutely no pressure to pick according to Andrea Mullineux.

Mullineux Granite Jakkalsfontein Syrah 2020, WO Swartland, 13.86% Abv.

1.8 g/l RS | 5.5 g/l TA | 3.67 pH

The deep GRANITE soils on this Jakkalsfontein farm allow for deep root growth and a larger natural canopy. This is incredible for allowing the grapes to retain acidity and purity which ultimately leads to tight, yet fresh tannins and a more lifted perfume. Like all 3 Single Terroir Syrahs, this wine is 100% foot-crushed, whole cluster, barrel fermented. Only natural yeasts take the wine through its fermentations and only hand plunging / gentle punch downs are performed for gentle extraction, just to keep the cap wet. After 4 weeks the wine was pressed back to the same barrels (the barrel sits on its bottom head for fermentation with the top head out, then it is replaced for maturation. The wine spends 11 months in 500L barrels and 1 year in 2000L foudres before it is bottled. This allows the tannins to develop, which are very long when Syrah is grown on Granite, one of the prime distinguishing characteristics of the soil type, and then lets the natural fresh and fragrant perfumes develop, and amazing blossoming of soil type-derived personality.

Same block has been bought for over 10 years from 21+ year old vines growing on deep sandy decomposed granite soils with a hint of clay. The aromatics reveal a lovely spicy, floral array with an expressive lavender lift intertwined with sweet black peppercorns, red currants, black cherries and a dusty dry straw and fynbos herbal complexity. On the palate, the incredibly powerful but very fine-grained, drying mineral tannins lend a real classicism to the wine’s mouthfeel and finish. The red and black berry fruits are subtle and restrained showing real precision, purity and focused finesse. While it is probably more of an illusion created by the tannins and the fresh acids, the lasting impression of the wine is its incredible minerality and old world restraint. The sour cherry picante finish just puts the final finishing touches to a very classical and classy expression of Syrah. This is one for collectors and connoisseurs, drinkers who want to age their wines and then sip them slowly in lengthy contemplation. World class Syrah in every sense of the word. Drink from 2024 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2020, WO Swartland, 13.34% Abv.

1.8 g/l RS | 5.1 g/l TA | 3.81 pH

These very special and characterful grapes grown on the brown schisty Kasteelberg showcase the Mullineux’s own estate, Roundstone, and its ability to define Syrah grown on SCHIST Soils. These rocky soils limit vine size and so the clusters and individual grapes, in turn remain smaller with a higher skin to juice ratio, offering denser, more brooding tannins. Like all three Single Terroir Syrahs, this wine is 100% foot-crushed, whole cluster, barrel fermented. Only natural yeasts take the wine through its fermentations and only hand plunging / gentle punch downs are performed for completely gentle extraction, just to keep the cap wet. After 4 weeks it was pressed back to the same barrels (the barrel sits on its bottom head for fermentation with the top head out, then it is replaced for maturation. The wine spends 11 months in 500L barrels and 1 year in 2000L foudres before it is bottled.

While a higher skin to juice ratio offers a denser, broodier tannic complexity, this wine is always very suave and plush, generous and alluring with complex layers of delicious black berry fruits. The aromatics show hints of lavender and violets, blueberry and black cherries, sweet grilled herbs and fynbos spice and a subtle black olive tapenade nuance. On the palate there is plenty of fleshy weight and texture with a balancing acid freshness and natural fruit concentration boasting vermouth spices, salty nori seaweed, blood oranges and an opulent, rich, meaty finish. A lot of premium wines have sex appeal and allure, it’s just that the Schist Syrah really knows how to flaunt it. A wine that is appealing to drink on release but will age gracefully for 15 to 20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Kasteelsig Syrah 2020, WO Swartland, 12.66% Abv.

2.0 g/l RS | 5.2 g/l TA | 3.77 pH

Grown on the IRON soils on the rolling red hills that surround Malmesbury, this organic vineyard grows on the clay and gravel rich Koffieklip that is very good at holding water and very generous during primary growth in the sprint, but then around verasion, the clay in the soil stops releasing moisture and the vine compensates during this quick ripening phase by making the smallest grapes out of all the three single terroirs, but because of the canopy, the skins are not too thick. This gives us wines that are rich and round, with gravely but plush tannins, and yet for some reason, always the lowest alcohol conversions for similar sugars across the Single Terroir range (they are all picked at the same ripeness). Like all 3 Single Terroir Syrahs, this wine is 100% foot-crushed, whole cluster, barrel fermented. Only natural yeasts take the wine through its fermentations and only hand plunging / gentle punch downs are performed for completely gentle extraction, just to keep the cap wet. After 4 weeks it was pressed back to the same barrels (the barrel sits on its bottom head for fermentation with the top head out, then it is replaced for maturation. The wine spends 11 months in 500L barrels and 1 year in 2000L foudres before it is bottled.

The Mullineuxs have been working with this specific vineyard for 18 vintages making it one of their most well know sites (this includes several years prior for Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards). On the nose there are pronounced notes of scorched earth, tapenade, broody black berry and black cherry fruits together with some red fruit brightness. The slightly reductive palate boasts a great depth of fruit with rich round tannins leading the way structurally. A wine that always has the highest natural extract but like this 2020 release, shows itself with the most generosity, harmony and balance. In common with both the Granite and the Schist Syrah expressions, this wine definitely has its own very unique personality derived from its terroir and typified by its very Northern Rhone physique, its savoury cured meat and irony complexity, the bright fresh acids and the suave powdery tannins. Tasted over three days, this is the wine that unfurled and fanned its peacock tail the most. Another very age worthy expression that is a true testament to the Mullineux’s winemaking prowess. Drink from 2024 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wines available to the wine trade in the UK from the Mullineux Wines importer Liberty Wines and in the USA from Skurnik Wines. RRP in the UK circa £49pb for whites and £78pb for the reds. In South Africa, R1,175pb for the reds and R630pb for the whites cellar door.

Assessing the New Releases from Mullineux Wines – Part 1: Tasting the Single Terroir 2021 Chenin Blanc Whites…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Mullineuxs have put an immense amount of blood, sweat and tears into creating their Mullineux Old Vine White Blend and their Mullineux Syrah. With the latest releases in 2022, we see both wines rising to unseen levels of quality and the 2021 Old Vine White is definitely their most distinguished creation to date. A wine not to be missed. But these wines only tell half the story. Much of the rise in quality of these larger production wines from a blend of vineyard sites can be attributed to the knowledge and expertise acquired over the past decade of producing the more niche Mullineux Single Terroir wines.

With the 2021 whites and 2020 red releases, the Mullineuxs have been granted permission from all farmers and vineyard owners involved to use the actual farm names on all the labels for the first time across the range. Previously, only the Mullineux Schist wines carried the Roundstone designation on the front labels. With all the experience and expertise has also come an extra confidence for the Mullineuxs to trumpet the site-specific origin of these wines, all of which now show noticeably specific vineyard traits and similarities from their terroirs year after year. I caught up with the power couple Chris and Andrea Mullineux recently and tasted through their new range of wines with them.

The Single Terroir Whites:

Wines were tasted from Zalto Bordeaux glasses and reviewed over the course of three days.

Mullineux Granite Eikelaan Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland, 13.98% Abv.

1.9 g/l RS | 6.5 g/l TA | 3.27 pH

These grapes grown on the Paardeberg showcase everything the Mullineuxs are looking for in wines that hail from Granite Soils. The roots grow deep, so the canopy remains very full, protecting it from sun and temperature fluctuations. The grapes then retain more freshness and perfume. At the winery, the grapes are whole bunch pressed and the juice is handled oxidatively to protect it later in its life. All of the juice is racked to barrel (0% new because they want all of the elements of this wine’s terroir to show through so consumers are tasting the soil and not the barrel, but older wood is still desired because of the positive micro-oxygenation effect it naturally has on the wine) where it undergoes natural primary and secondary fermentation and lives on the lees, un-stirred (the texture is coming from the South African Sun and Old Vines) until racking out of barrel to prepare for bottling after 11 months. Andrea leave’s the barrels full as long as possible because a full barrel is a happy barrel. The wine is bottled unfiltered to further showcase the Swartland Granite terroir.

The 2021 vintage in the Swartland was late because it was such a slow, cool and balanced vintage which shows in the wines, especially with the Granite Chenin Blanc due to longer hang times adding extra texture and mouthfeel to compliment the Granite’s racy acidity and linear tension. Across the range, the ripening of the Iron vineyard came first, followed by the Schist vineyard, ending with the Granite vineyard, picked over a 10-day period of time differentiation with no heatwaves. With the two weeks of extra hangtime, the wine displays more alluring yellow orchard fruit notes together with aromatic layers of tangerine, greengage plums and yellow citrus nuances. While there may be ample exotic fruit notes on the nose, all the intense granitic liquid minerality that is so typical for this wine are clear to be seen on the palate, supported by a zippy but tangy fresh acidity, an impressively sleek, sumptuous palate texture and the most delicious mouth-watering intensity on the finish. A super fine expression of how a taut, linear Chenin Blanc can also be so incredibly multi-dimensional in a top vintage. Simply a majestic drop of wine to drink now and over the next 20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland, 13.95% Abv.

1.7 g/l RS | 5.8 g/l TA | 3.40 pH

These very special and characterful grapes grown on Kasteelberg showcase the essence of the Mullineux estate, Roundstone, and its ability to define Chenin Blanc grown on Schist soils. These rocky soils limit vine size and so the clusters and individual grapes, in turn remain smaller with a higher skin to juice ratio, offering positive white-wine tannins and texture. At the winery the grapes are whole bunch pressed and the juice is handled oxidatively to protect it later in its life. All of the juice is racked to barrel (0% new because Andrea wants all of the elements of this wine’s terroir to show through so drinkers are tasting the soil and not the barrel, but older wood is still desired because of the positive micro-oxygenation effect it naturally has on the wine) where it undergoes natural primary and secondary fermentation and lives on the lees, un-stirred until racking out of barrel to prepare for bottling after 11 months.

Coming from fruit from a young vineyard of seven years old which was picked almost two to three weeks later than normal. The shallower, rockier soils of the Roundstone vineyard traditionally yield more stone fruit aromatic nuances with the 2021 expression also boasting multiple layers of white and green citrus, pear puree, golden delicious apples and complex white peach notes intertwined with savoury dried herbs and subtle struck flint reductive hints. On the palate the wine is full and expansive but wonderfully precise and seamless, gliding over the palate with hints of honey of white toast, quince, white peach puree and an incredible concentration before melting away slowly to leave a dry, picante, phenolic tinged impression on the finish. A wine with striking depth, concentration and generosity. Drink now and over the next 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Rondomskrik Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland, 12.65% Abv.

1.5 g/l RS | 5.7 g/l TA | 3.49 pH

Grown on the Iron soils on the rolling red hills that surround Malmesbury, these vineyards grow on the clay and gravel rich Koffieklip that is very good at holding water and very generous during primary growth in the sprint, but then around verasion, the clay in the soil stops releasing moisture and the vine compensates during this quick ripening phase by making the smallest of grapes, but because of the canopy, the skins are not too thick. This gives us wines that are rich and round, yet for some reason, always the lowest alcohol conversions for similar sugars across the Single Terroir Range (they are all picked at the same ripeness). At the winery the grapes are whole bunch pressed and the juice is handled oxidatively to protect it later in its evolution. All of the juice is then racked into used oak barrels (older wood is still desired because of the positive micro-oxygenation effect it naturally has on the wine) where it undergoes natural primary and secondary fermentation and lives on the lees, un-stirred until racking out of barrel to prepare for bottling after 11 months.

Only the second white single terroir expression produced from this white vineyard, the aromatics boast and incredibly reductive character with notes of struck flint, wet river stones and wet hay. Always a wine that tends toward reduction making it a real characteristic of the vineyard, even with oxidative handling. The palate is smoky and chalky, thoroughly mineral driven at the moment but with big mid-palate weight and concentration from a high dry extract. There is plenty of inherent detail and precision, an incredibly fine line of acidity supporting distinct notes of quince, chamomile, green herbs, savoury bruised yellow orchard fruits and a dried mint leaf nuance on the long intense finish. This is a wine that will need some extra time in bottle to show at its best but should be a stunner when it approaches its peak maturity. Drink from 2024 to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wines available to the wine trade in the UK from their importer Liberty Wines and in the USA from Skurnik Wines. RRP in the UK circa £49pb for whites and £78pb for the reds. In South Africa, R1175pb for the reds and R630pb for the whites cellar door.

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines – Tasting Their New White Single Terroir 2020 Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 1 Comment

There cannot be many more meticulous producers in the Cape than Chris and Andrea Mullineux who, over the past decade, have established one of the most authoritative fine wine brands in South Africa. With unrelenting attention to detail, painstaking precision and ruthless selection, the Mullineux’s have stuck unerringly to their grand vision to create a Swartland first growth estate producing wines that can confidently rub shoulders with the greatest fine wine names globally.

While the Mullineux’s have triumphed year after year with their superb red wines, it has undoubtedly been the high quality of their single terroir Chenin Blancs that has helped them ride the Swartland wave over the past decade. Now established as one of South Africa’s most sought-after brands, fine wine buyers the world over are realising that these are indeed wines that they not only want to have but need to have in their extensive collections.

I recently caught up with Chris Mullineux in London to taste through their impressive Single Terroir new releases.

Mullineux Granite Chenin Blanc 2020, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

RS 1.9 g/l | TA 6.0 g/l | pH 3.40

The grapes for the 2020 Granite Chenin Blanc were harvested from a 44-year-old parcel of dry farmed bush vines planted in the decomposed Granite soils of the Paardeberg. These very deep decomposed Granite soils from higher altitude vineyards tend to produce wines with great acidity and a flinty, stony aromatic profile with notes of blossom, sea salt and brine. The grapes for the 2020 were picked at 4 tons/Ha (24 Hl/Ha) and were whole bunch pressed before settling and then racked into barrel for fermentation with indigenous yeasts which lasts around 4 weeks. The wine was then left in barrels, on its lees, until spring, during which time malolactic fermentation was completed. The barrels were racked and blended just before the following vintage and bottled unfiltered. Total maturation was 11 months in 3rd and 4th fill French oak barrels.

It just seems that granitic soils and Chenin Blanc are a match made in heaven! After several years of distinctly hot, dry growing seasons, 2020 experienced cooler evenings and more moderate temperatures together with adequate water supplies for the vines. The result is a deliciously cool, tight, nervy expression of racy Chenin Blanc boasting aromatics of green fruits, citrus blossom and yellow grapefruit peel intertwined with stony, flinty mineral notes and dusty, herby fynbos and dried hay nuances. The palate is crystalline and steely and decidedly more linear and nervy than either the Schist or Iron cuvees yet lacks nothing when it comes to intensity and concentration. Sleek and fabulously textured, this classy wine bristles with green apple, green citrus and hints of tangerine and liquid minerality on the long, focused finish. Undoubtedly a wine that you’d be well advised to bury in your cellar for 5 to 8 years before drinking. (990 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Chenin Blanc 2020, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

RS 1.7 g/l | TA 6.0 g/l | pH 3.43

Grown in the brown Schist soils on Roundstone Farm, the home of Mullineux wines, these sustainably farmed Chenin Blanc bush vines produce small clusters, tiny grapes, and thicker skins, which lend to the structure of this wine. The maiden 2013 Schist single terroir Chenin Blanc was sourced from the neighbouring Goldmine farm while the Mullineux’s planted their own vineyards. Planted on a contour to conserve soil integrity and ensure erosion control, this wine exudes the exact sunshine, freshness and phenolic balance that have come to define the Schist Chenin Blanc stylistically. The young vine harvests originally went into the Kloof Street Chenin Blanc before the grapes started to show real potential in 2019 when a component was bottled individually. 2020 is the first proper commercial release of the Schist since the 2013 vintage. The grapes were hand-harvested in the early morning fresh air and were oxidatively whole-bunch pressed into barrel where natural fermentation started. The wine was naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts and then left in barrel on its lees until spring, when it was racked and blended just before the following vintage and bottled unfiltered. The 2020 was matured for 11 months in 3rd and 4th fill 500L French oak barrels.

The brown schist soils of the Kasteelberg are renowned for yielding rich, creamy, fruit forward Syrahs and similarly with Chenin Blanc, these soils impart their unique character on the wine style. Full, rich and glycerol, this expression displays impressive textural breadth and depth that is accentuated by slightly softer acids and more noticeable phenolic pithiness from the grape’s thicker skins. The aromatics are packed with yellow pear, white peach, quince and candied lemon pastille fruits with more subtle mineral undertones. The palate shows wonderful purity and ripeness with rich, glycerol layers of unctuous green and yellow orchard fruits that are enlivened by a delicious sweet and sour tangy acidity, finishing with mouth watering notes of fresh fennel and naartjie. This wine performs from the minute the cork is pulled but grows in complexity and stature the longer it is open. A simply delicious, amiable style of Chenin Blanc. (2,220 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Grapes from the 2022 Iron Chenin Blanc harvest.

Mullineux Iron Chenin Blanc 2020, WO Swartland, 12.99% Abv.

RS 1.9 g/l | TA 6.3 g/l | pH 3.40

Hailing from the red rich, gravelly-clay Koffieklip soils on the rolling hills outside of Malmesbury, this dry land bush vine vineyard is always the first to ripen. In 2018 the Mullineux’s took over the whole parcel, allowing them to allocate rows that would truly show the natural texture, alluring extract and balanced acidity that these small and concentrated Chenin Blanc grapes grown on Iron soils contribute to the variety and final wine. The grapes were harvested on the 20th January 2020 with a yield of just below 3.7 tons/Ha (20 Hl/Ha). The Iron Chenin Blanc vineyard always has a low juice-to-berry ratio due to its adaptability to the soil in conjunction with its meso-climate, which is why the Mullineux’s are incredibly careful when hand-harvesting these minuscule quantities. After oxidative pressing to barrel, indigenous yeast took the must through primary fermentation and natural malolactic fermentation was not inhibited. Sulphur was only added after natural settling occurred, and the 2020 vintage was bottled after 11 months ageing in 3rd and 4th fill 500L French oak barrels.

A portion of these Chenin Blanc grapes from circa 30-year-old vines used to be blended into the Kloof Street Chenin Blanc with their lower alcohols and higher dry extract levels that are comparable to a red wine. This maiden release 2020 shows great power, freshness and vibrancy with aromatics bursting with yellow and orange citrus fruits, orange peel, tangerine and white peach with a notable struck flint, gun smoke character. The palate is equally complex and shows richness, density and power, the result of picking riper golden bunches together with some green bunches that lend notes of green citrus and a tantalisingly tangy freshness. What the Iron cuvee lacks in delicacy, racy acids and mineral bite, it more than makes up for with its concentration, foursquare savoury palate density and classic smoky Burgundian reduction. A fabulous new addition to the single terroir range that represents uncompromising fruit selection and quality. (1,560 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines Release a Trio of Benchmark 2018 Single Terroir Syrahs…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

With the allocation list opening for the Mullineux single terroir wines, casual drinkers, connoisseurs and collectors alike are going to be in for a big treat with the new 2018s. These three superb single terroir Syrah expressions have over the past eight years garnered almost every possible award available to South African producers reaffirming their exceptional quality but also the foresight, vision and attention to detail that has become a relentless crusade for Chris and Andrea Mullineux.

The five new single terroir releases.

I tasted these three unique single terroir expressions with Chris and Andrea recently and was very, very impressed by the consistently excellent quality of these 2018 Swartland Syrahs. So much hype and media attention has rightly centred around the 2017 vintage reds primarily thanks to the incredible Cabernets and Cabernet based blends from Stellenbosch. But 2018 represents something very special in the Swartland and finally we are able to see the results. So get on to the Mullineux allocation hotline pronto!

Mullineux Granite Syrah 2018, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

RS 2.1 g/l  – TA 5.1 g/l  – pH 3.672

Sourced from a single parcel of 24 year old dry land grown Syrah planted on decomposed granite in the Paardeberg, the grapes were foot trodden in 500 litre French oak barrels to break the berries and release the juices. After 4 days of macerating, the fermentation begun naturally with indigenous yeasts and lasted around 10 days. After fermentation, the wine saw a further 4 weeks of skin maceration before being pressed into barrel to complete malolactic fermentation. Pigeage was performed once a day before, during and after fermentation. In the Spring, the wine was racked after 21 months in barrel and was bottled unfiltered and unfined. The wine saw 12 months in French oak 500 litre barrels, 25% new, followed by 9 months in 2nd fill foudre. A final 9 months of ageing in bottle was carried out before release.

Syrah vines in the Granite vineyard.

Just as Andrea Mullineux always enthuses, this Granite Syrah is yet again just so exquisitely perfumed with fragrant lifted notes of lavender and lilac, hints of violets and subtle notes of cherry blossom. A veritable Rhoney Garden of Eden. There is a wonderous beauty to the wine that teases the senses with multiple complex aromatic layers of wet gravel, fresh black currants, sun baked strawberries and hints of savoury cured meats, subtle juniper berry notes and sweet red and black peppercorn nuances. Intricately crafted and sublimely expressive, the palate shows a very pure and focused precision with silky, powdery almost creamy tannins that combine with dense, concentrated, tight knit red and black berry fruits, red currant compote, pithy blood orange zest and a long, fine-grained lingering finish that leaves you feeling so utterly charmed. The purity of fruit and compact textural focus and concentration is almost faultless and suggest that this wine is going to evolve into one hell of a Syrah beauty if allowed to age 10 to 15 years for starters. While always fabulous on release, these wines are built to reward extended ageing and so 6 to 8 years should be considered the minimum ageing requisite if you really want to start seeing some of the extra hidden dimensions of this wine. (5,376 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2018, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.

RS 1.9g/l  – TA 4.9 g/l  – pH 3.72

The grapes for the 2018 Schist Syrah were sourced from 21 year old vines planted on stony shale and schist soils on the Roundstone farm where the Mullineux winery is based next door to the Kasteelberg. As with the Granite and Iron cuvees, the grapes were foot trodden in 500 litre French oak barrels to break the berries and release the juices. After 4 days of macerating, the fermentation begun naturally with indigenous yeasts and lasted around 10 days. After fermentation, the wine saw a further 4 weeks of skin maceration before being pressed into barrel to complete malolactic fermentation. Pigeage was performed once a day before, during and after fermentation. In the Spring, the wine was racked after 21 months in barrel and was bottled unfiltered and unfined. The wine saw 12 months in French oak 500 litre barrels, 25% new, followed by 9 months in 2nd fill foudre. A final 9 months of ageing in bottle was carried out before release.

The brown Schist soils of the Roundstone farm.

While the Mullineux’s are adamant that the Schist Syrah is always one of the most structured wines out of their single terroir reds range, the density and structure always seems to translate into extreme finesse, plush concentration and a seductive elegance, making this one of the most sought after cuvees by the “man in the street.” But like all great fine wines, when supreme quality is present, these wines can be drunk literally from the barrel with equal pleasure offered in youth as with bottle age. The 2018 Schist continues the vintage theme of mid-palate concentration and fruit density with an incredibly rich, plummy, fragrant aromatics laced with lavender and incense, savoury barbequed meats, charcoal embers, olive tapenade and earthy blackberry fruits. The palate is cool and velvety with a massive mouth coating concentration of red and black berry fruits, powdery dry tannins and all the depth and breath you’d expect from a wine of this pedigree. Decant and drink this beauty on release or bury away in your cellar for a good 10 to 15 years. (5,340 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Iron Syrah 2018, WO Swartland, 14% Abv.

RS 2.2 g/l  – TA 5.1 g/l  – pH 3.78

Grapes for the 2018 Iron Syrah were sourced from a single parcel of 19-year old organically farmed dry land bush vines on the rolling iron-rich soils west of Malmesbury. This parcel of Syrah gives one of the best expression of the “koffieklip” terroir – notably broadness and mid-palate concentration. As with the Granite and Schist cuvees, the grapes were foot trodden in 500 litre French oak barrels to break the berries and release the juices. After 4 days of macerating, the fermentation begun naturally with indigenous yeasts and lasted around 10 days. After fermentation, the wine saw a further 4 weeks of skin maceration before being pressed into barrel to complete malolactic fermentation. Pigeage was performed once a day before, during and after fermentation. In the Spring, the wine was racked after 21 months in barrel and was bottled unfiltered and unfined. The wine saw 12 months in French oak 500 litre barrels, 25% new, followed by 9 months in 2nd fill foudre. A final 9 months of ageing in bottle was carried out before release.

The dry grown Syrah vines of the Iron vineyard.

Often described as one of the most intellectually challenging wines in the Mullineux line up, the Iron Syrah also happens to be the most powerful, dense, concentrated and broody of the single terroir Syrah releases. Perhaps it is my love for the classical Northern Rhone Syrah expressions of France that make this wine so singularly and utterly seductive and beguiling. The aromatics are indistinguishable from a top Cote-Rotie Syrah with fabulous layers of sweet heady lavender perfume, rooibos, garrigue and savoury grilled herbs, barbequed meats and hints of iron and blood, iodine, bruleed earth and hedonistic notes of sweet oak spice, roasted coffee beans and a kiss of mocha complexity. So impressively compact, dense and concentrated, every component seems to add synergy to the seamless balance with the tannin management excelling yet again. This is truly a wine of impressive power and beauty within an international fine wine context. Drink from release after decanting or age for 15 to 20+ years. (2,628 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines Release Another Incredible Pair of Whites – Tasting the 2019 Quartz and Granite Single Terroir Chenin Blancs…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Always a highly anticipated white wine new release, the Single Terroir cuvees from Chris and Andrea Mullineux continue to generate a lot of excitement year after year. With just two white cuvees this year, the Mullineux Old Vine white becomes the lucky beneficiary of the Schist portion yet again.

With a lot of discussion surrounding the incredible quality of the 2019s, I asked Andrea if she saw any similarities with their 2017 releases. Both vintages showed general character traits of intense liquid minerality and tight wound-spring tension though Andrea pointed out that not only does the 2019 Granite have a noticeably higher acidity at 7.2 TA, it also possesses an incredibly concentrated and intense density of glycerol fruit at a meagre 13% Abv.

The 2019s are definitely going to impress collectors looking to buy wines to lay down. Look out for the SA release in mid-September through Méridien Wines or across Europe in the Autumn.

Mullineux Quartz Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.

RS 1.1 g/l  – TA 5.1 g/l  – pH 3.49

The grapes for the 2019 Quartz Chenin Blanc were sourced from a single parcel of sustainably farmed 38 years old vines planted in a quartz kloof on the Kasteelberg on the Leliefontein farm. This parcel of Chenin gives the best expression of the quartz terroir on the Kasteelberg, always displaying a fresh minerality and a lovely textural breadth. The grapes for the 2018 were whole-bunch pressed before settling and then racked into barrel for fermentation with indigenous yeasts which lasts around 4 weeks. The wine is then left in barrels, on its lees, until spring, during which time malolactic fermentation is completed. The barrels are racked and blended just before the following vintage and bottled unfiltered. Total maturation was 11 months in 3rd and 4th fill French oak barrels.

The rocky Quartz soils

Tasting the Quartz Chenin Blanc with the Mullineuxs recently, Chris described how their customers are finely divided by their preferences for either the tension and minerality of the Granite Chenin Blanc and the broader, richer, more texturally opulent Quartz Chenin Blanc which almost resembles a 1er Cru Meursault in character with overt flesh and opulence, a broad mouthfeel and a focused concentration of white citrus and green orchard fruits. The aromatics are certainly as expressive as the best wines out of the Swartland with clear, defined aromas of crunchy green apples, white pear pastille and a thrilling melange of orange peel and naartjie zest all under pinned by a chain gang dusty crushed rock minerality. The palate is fabulously crystalline and pure with a slightly saline green melon and granny smith apple concentration and a cool, fine focused finish that suggests plenty of textural generosity. Drink from release and over the next 8 to 10+ years. (2,880 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Granite Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Swartland, 13% Abv

RS 2.1 g/l  – TA 7,2 g/l  – pH 3.36

The grapes for the 2019 Granite Chenin Blanc were harvested from a 43 year old parcel of dry farmed bush vines planted in the decomposed Granite soils of the Paardeberg. These very deep decomposed Granite soils tend to produce wines with great acidity and a flinty, stony aromatic profile with notes of sea salt and brine. The grapes for the 2018 were whole-bunch pressed before settling and then racked into barrel for fermentation with indigenous yeasts which lasts around 4 weeks. The wine is then left in barrels, on its lees, until spring, during which time malolactic fermentation is completed. The barrels are racked and blended just before the following vintage and bottled unfiltered. Total maturation was 11 months in 3rd and 4th fill French oak barrels.

Traditional old vine Chenin Blanc bush vines in the decomposed Granite soils of the Paardeberg.

While yields in 2018 were decimated by the drought, down by up to -80%, the 2019 season also suffered a -30% reduction in yields resulting in another vintage with a dense glycerol texture, depth and intensity of fruit. The 2019 Granite is certainly classically proportioned displaying all the intense liquid minerality, crushed gravel and granitic spice that is so typical of the finest terroir wines grown on ancient decomposed granitic soils. With this minerality come layer upon layer of complex dried green herbs, green apple bon bon rock candy, crunchy white peach and salty, briney notes of a Cape west coast sea breeze. But unlike some previous vintages, this wine not only displays an incredibly piercing nervous acidity, picante white citrus and crunchy green fennel notes, it also impresses with an unbelievably expressive glycerol palate concentration with intricate notes of quince, greengage, rock salt and pear puree. With one of the highest total acidities yet registered for this cuvee, combined with its mind blowing depth of fruit, this is going to make Chenin collectors shiver with excitement. Drink from release and enjoy this wine’s evolution over 20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

David Sadie Makes His Annual Pilgrimage to London to Unveil His New 2018 Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Few white wines from South Africa have emerged from the vinous landscape to stake a greater claim to Grand Cru quality status than the single vineyard Chenin Blanc expressions from David and Nadia Sadie. With a formidable track record being established for the Hoe Steen and Skaliekop bottlings, these wines have found a strong following among collectors and connoisseurs and are now joined by the excellent Plat’Bos single vineyard cuvée.

These wines just seem to tick all the requisite boxes… exceptional quality, consistency, age ability, limited production, old vines, site specific and international critical acclaim… making these annual new releases an important feature of the South African fine wine landscape.

David & Nadia Skaliekop Chenin Blanc Single Vineyard 2018, WO Swartland, 13.5 Abv.

Single vineyard planted in 1985 on brown shale soils with a north west facing aspect. Picked in the last week of January over two or three passes through the vineyard. Instantly taut, restrained and mineral driven with gravel, green apple pastille, crunchy pear and dry bush veld spice nuances. Palate shows a sleek texture, fabulous intensity and balance, fresh electric acids, salinity and an impressively long, white peach and pear purée finish. Nice coiled tension and eminently age worthy without any doubt.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

David & Nadia Hoe Steen Chenin Blanc Single Vineyard 2018, WO Swartland, 13.5 Abv.

Planted in 1968 with a massale selection of grapes with at least two clones of Chenin Blanc. A south facing vineyard with little terraces, the soils are clay rich with lots of coffee klip. Aromatics are very dusty, spicy and gravelly with perhaps hints of the other aromatic varieties like False Pedro, Semillon, Palomino and Crouchen Blanc interplanted shining through. Fabulously spicy and saline with dried herbs, pear purée, apple pastille and crunchy pineapple. Incredible Grand Cru palate weight and breadth, coating concentration and length without ever losing poise and finesse. Wow, what a wine. The ultimate Grand Cru Chenin!

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

David & Nadia Plat’Bos Chenin Blanc Single Vineyard 2018, WO Swartland, 13 Abv.

Little bush vines planted in 1981 next to the Skaliekop vineyard but on 100% granitic soils. Nose shows a lovely balance between minerality, pithy spicy yellow orchard fruits, crushed granite and dry fynbos and thatch herbal spice. Cool, clean, crystalline, powerful and linear, this cuvée shows the classic tension of Chenin Blanc grown on granite soils, an entrancing saline crisp acidity and a sleek, polished marble textural harmony and finesse. Really quite impressive now but this is most certainly a wine for medium to long term cellaring. One for the collectors!?

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

David & Nadia wines are distributed to the trade in the UK by Justerini & Brooks.

Tasting the Soalheiro Granit Alvarinho – One of The Best Mineral Whites I’ve Ever Experienced…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

This could possibly be one of the most incredibly delicious mineral driven whites I have ever drunk. Created from vineyards planted above 250 metres altitude, this wine reveals a minerality and tension not seen on many wines anywhere in the world. Coming from vines grown on granitic soils from the Moncao e Melgaco terroir, the wine was further enriched with bâtonnage on the fine lees to create a profound Alvarinho mineral white expression.

Soalheiro Granit Mineral Selection 2017, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 13 Abv.

A most incredibly lifted, fragrant, mineral nose bursting with a wild array of peach blossom, tangerine peel, honeydew melon, Granny Smith apples and crunchy white peach pastille. A seductive, complex, opulent nose that combines wonderfully expressive fragrant, crystalline fruits with intense stony, dusty granitic minerality. The palate is texturally finely embroidered featuring incredible crystalline purity, impressive clarity and noteworthy attention to detail. But underlying it all is a profound sense of liquid minerality and textured precision. A small production wine so track it down if you can.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

(UK Agent: Raymond Reynolds)