From the Fine Wine Safari Cellar – Part 8: Alheit Vineyards Radio Lazarus 2012 Versus Radio Lazarus 2017…

In today’s archive cellar examination, we look at not one but two iconic unicorn Chenin Blanc expressions from Chris Alheit, both tasted in December 2025 – the maiden release 2012 Radio Lazarus and then Chris Alheit’s last release. The 2017 represents the final release of Radio Lazarus made from two hilltop sites with stony shale soils: one planted in 1978 at 400m, and the other in 1971 at 450m. Due to the 2015-2019 Cape drought, these old vines finally reached the end of their lifespan and were simply no longer commercially viable. Radio Lazarus is unique in that it is fermented in large clay pots of 600 litres each, made from clay collected from the bottom of the same hill.

Renowned South African Wine journalist Tim James recently wrote a fitting homage to Radio Lazarus in June 2025, commenting… “I’ve previously had bottles of the 2012 Radio Lazarus at ten years that also showed remarkable youthfulness of flavour and freshness, while having the harmony, suavity, deep complexity, and texture of maturity. A great advertisement for the longevity and development potential of fine local Chenin Blanc.”

Tim continued… “The 2012 was the maiden vintage, and the one that preceded the 2014, as all the 2013 grapes went towards the blend for that year’s Cartology. Which means, in fact, that there were only two released vintages of Radio Lazarus that came from a single vineyard on the Bottelary Hills. From 2015 to 2017, there was a contribution from a second, nearby, high-lying Chenin Blanc vineyard (a little higher, a little older, on a hill bristling with even more of the radio masts that gave the wine half of its name).”

Tim concludes, somewhat sombrely… “It wasn’t just the cruel dryness and heat that finished it off; hungry buck, confronted by barren veld, had come like never before to eat what green shoots there were.” Eight final crates of 2018 grapes were picked that year off the other, original vineyard, but no wine was commercially released. In their release notes that year, the Alheits wrote of the glimmering of pleasure in knowing that “both vineyards were on death row, due to be ripped up, and yet they lived on a few more years to make some of the loveliest wines we’ve ever had the chance to work with.”

Alheit Vineyards Radio Lazarus 2012, WO Stellenbosch

This is a truly impressive bottle of Old Vine Chenin Blanc revealing complex regal aromatics of honey and biscuity leesy nuances and a subtle reductive vein before biscuit, quince jelly and buttered white toast. But this wine just keeps on offering up more and more… camomile tea, bees wax, burnt orange peel, apple puree, and oyster shell sea breeze hints. The palate is no less impressive, densely textured, unctuous, and creamy with quince, pineapple puree, more burnt orange, beautifully glycerol and full supported by fresh tangy acids that create a vibrant energy, sweet and sour yellow plum and a kelpy, maritime finish. Wow. A true unicorn wine that’s still firing on all cylinders. Drink now but certainly no rush.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Alheit Vineyards Radio Lazarus 2017, WO Stellenbosch

This vintage keeps going up in everyone’s estimation for both reds and whites and this beautiful drought vintage expression shows complex notes of salted liquorice, pristine refreshing saline nuances, earthy savoury peaches, yellow orchard stone fruits together with hints of wet straw, wet grey slate and green apple puree nuances. The palate is seductively silky and soft yet full and glycerol in the mouth with lovely harmonious chamomile, honey, and white peach notes on the long, characterful silky finish. Beautifully youthful and vibrant still, this wine should continue to put on extra weight and increase in complexity as it ages further. A fitting swansong vintage for this Old Vine vineyard.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Judgement of Wimbledon Blind Grenache Tasting Celebrates Its Historic 10th Anniversary Tasting in London…

And just like that, what started out 10 years ago as a serious but fun effort by a group of passionate wine trade professionals and wine collectors to taste and benchmark some of the best Grenache wines in the world has evolved into one of the most respected annual blind Grenache assessments organised anywhere in the world. Year by year, more and more effort has been channelled into sourcing the rarest, the finest and the purest terroir expressions of Grenache produced. Much of this positive momentum and passion must be attributed to the Judgement of Wimbledon’s Convenor of Judges, Riaan Potgieter.

A Historic 10th Anniversary Tasting

Year after year, Riaan has painstakingly scoured the new releases and global reviews with the sole mission of tracking down any new fine Grenache expressions whether produced in the USA, South Africa, Australia or Spain. So, it seems only fitting that Riaan’s efforts and considerable financial outlay annually, are acknowledged and recognised. As soon as one Judgement tasting ends, Riaan can be seen planning the next line-up by tracking down and tasting numerous new pretenders as well as organising multiple preliminary blind tasting rounds to whittle down the final selection.

67 Pall Mall – the 2026 tasting venue.

In its 10th year, the Judgement of Wimbledon 2026 departed slightly from previous editions by assembling an array of wines mostly from producers who had performed well in previous years, but this time using vintages with some additional bottle age. The New World participants were chosen primarily from the 2019 vintage and the Old World producers from the 2018 vintage, allowing for some wines to shed their youthful reductive veil and show their true terroir and pedigree as their winemakers intended.

The 18 wine blind Grenache line-up.

The final 18 wine line-up for the 2026 Judgement of Wimbledon blind tasting featured 3 wines from Australia, 3 wines from South Africa, 11 wines from Spain (1 x Aragon, 1 x Costers del Segre, 3 x Gredos, 2 x Montsant, 3 x Priorat and 1 x Rioja) and 1 from the USA. Due to the older vintage categories chosen, this naturally excluded some newer start-ups such as Dylan Grigg from the Barossa Valley in Australia as his first Vinya Vella Old Vine Grenache vintage was only produced in 2021. The other notable change to the format was moving the venue from Wimbledon to the mecca of London fine wine, 67 Pall Mall, where a professional team of sommeliers could organise optimal glassware and perfect pouring temperatures.

With guest judge Dominik Huber from Terroir Al Limit in Priorat.
With last year’s winner, Juanan Martin from Rico Nuevo in Gredos.

In 2024, the judging panel was joined by Vinous.com lead critic Neal Martin, and in 2025, the panel was positively thrilled to have world renowned wine critic and Grenache / Garnacha specialist Luis Gutierrez from The Wine Advocate join proceedings. For the 10th anniversary, two top producers were invited to join the Judgement panel, namely Dominik Huber from Terroir Al Limit in Priorat and Juanan Martin, who’s own wine Rico Nuevo La Quebra 2021 won the Judgement tasting in 2025. In all, there were 14 judges this year and two bottles of each wine were poured blind.

The 2026 pouring order of wines.

As is customary, below you can find my personal BLIND tasting notes and scores.

Typing up my blind tasting notes.

Judgement of Wimbledon 2026 Blind Tasting Notes:

Wine 1: Alvaro Palacios Quinon de Valmira 2018, Rioja, Spain

Sweet and sour red and black fruits on the nose with clear savoury hints, stewed red plums, dried baking herbs and bramble berry spice. The palate is sleek and taut, fine grained, mineral yet delicately sappy with bramble berry fruits, silky soft compact tannins and a spicy, stony mineral finish with a delicate kiss of dried thyme on the finish. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 2: Torres Mas de la Rosa 2018, Priorat, Spain

Deeper, darker broodier aromatics with notions of sweet damson plum, black cherry, cinnamon and clove spice with a hint of mixed dry baking herbs and mint leaf. On the palate this is a real Peter Pan wine packed full of blue and black berry fruits, pithy cherry and saline cassis on the dense, compact finish. Wonderful composure, balance and harmony on this young, vibrant, fruit forward expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 3: Sadie Family Wines Old Vine Series Soldaat 2019, Swartland, South Africa

A tighter, fresher, mineral driven aromatics with hints of crushed granite, bay leaf and whole bunch red berry spice. The palate is subtle and understated, compact and pithy with hints of vermouth spice, Seville orange peel and pithy black cherry persistence. A more classically framed, Old World leaning expression that you expect would have been reductive in its youth but that is now finally drawing the curtains and letting in the light. A very pretty, stony, terroir driven expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 4: Frontonio El Jardín de Las Iguales Garnacha 2018, Aragon, Spain

A more lifted, exotic aromatics with notes of cherry cola and stewed strawberry but also some subtle early tertiary notes of bramble berries, tannery leather and strawberry compote. The colour shows some age and development, the palate too is equally sweet and sour, slightly evolved and showing savoury cured Serrano ham notes over pithy stewed red berry hints. An intriguing expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)*

*It should be noted that some tasters who know the Frontonio well thought that the 2018 bottles might have suffered some heat damage or poor storage. While the wine still performed relatively well, judges wanted it noted for the record that the bottles may not have shown at their best.

Wine 5: Rico Nuevo La Quebra 2018, Gredos, Spain

A darker fruit profile is dominant in the glass with a dusty, stony minerality and some smoky, spicy wood smoke and blueberry fruit opulence. The youthful depth and blueberry opulence follows to the palate that shows chalky grippy tannins, a fabulous piercing black cherry and black fruited intensity with a searing saline oystershell maritime edge to the finish. Very impressive indeed. 

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 6: Lagravera Ciclic Negre 2019, Costers del Segre, Spain

A richer, riper aromatics with notes of cola syrup, red cherry candy and caramelised brown sugar. The palate is cool and sleek, slightly understated but retaining the cola candy mouth coating “dry” sweetness. Plenty of glycerol weight, the tannins are stony and slightly rasping, the finish drying, picante and slightly curtailed at the moment.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 7: Mas Martinet Els Escurcons 2018, Priorat, Spain

Exotic aromatics suggests pink musk, rock candy and Wrigley’s chewing gum. Underneath, there are herby spicy notes with subtle medicinal medicine chest nuances. The palate is fleshy and generous, cool and chalky with a certain harmonious accessibility and chalky, candied approachability. Silky tannins, beautiful finesse and a fine youthful freshness on the finish. 

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 8: Alkina Polygon No. 5 Grenache 2019, Barossa Valley, Australia

A taut, tight, broody aromatics with defined notes of granitic tension and dusty minerality over sappy red fruits and pink musk. Compact yet fleshy, there is good glycerol weight, savoury broody, earthy red and black fruits and a fine-grained chalky limestone mineral finish. Tight, youthful overall impression but certainly not lacking any class. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 9: Terroir Sense Fronteres Guix Vermell 2018, Montsant, Spain

The aromatics are stand alone with unique hints of caramelised brown sugar, wood smoke, roasted caramelised nuts and cola syrup hints. Tight grained, chalky and deliciously mineral on the palate, there is that invigorating salinity that raises its head, with creamy talcum tannins, tight grained tension and a real pedigree on display here. True class. 

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 10: Venus la Universal Venus de La Figuera 2018, Montsant, Spain

The aromatics show a unique mix of baking herbs, cinnamon and clove spice over notes of cola, pithy red cherry and delicate reductive black currant nuances. The palate is a little looser knit than some examples, with savoury strains, clove and vermouth spices, dried herbs and pithy red and black cherry spices over cured meats on the chalky mineral finish that coats your palate with energetic grippy tannins. An enticing expression of Grenache.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 11: Terroir al Limit Les Manyes 2018, Priorat, Spain

This shows hints of tertiary complexity before notes of cinnamon and cedar oak spice, bramble berries, cola and top notes of thyme. The picante, spicy, lipstick lift continues to the palate that is incredibly tight grained, chalky and mineral, with a fascinating texture. The acids are fresh and lift the wine on its long finish. Another wine with a real terroir feel.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 12: Comando G Tumba del Rey Moro, Gredos, Spain (Magnum)

A complex expression that combines aromatics of musk, talc and dried herbs with notes of dried cherries, potpourri and pressed violets over a subtle granitic undertone. The vermouth spices and red liquorice notes rise on the palate with more pink musky fruits, red cherry, and the ever present drying chalky granitic spice from some formidable tannins. Despite its age, this is an infant in nappies, promising a phenomenal future of fine wine drinking.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 13: Naude Wines Grenache 2019, Western Cape (Swartland), South Africa

This feels a leaner, tighter, more mineral expression on the nose with an earlier picked translucent, mineral brightness to the bramble berry and wild strawberry fruits. The palate is vibrant and plucky, fresh, light on its feet but certainly lacking no intensity, as the acids reverberate across the mouth, the cranberry and red apple fruits lingering for extra effect on the finish. A pristine, focused, classical expression of note.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 14: Thistledown Sands of Time 2019, McLaren Vale, Australia

A rich, expressive aromatics boasts notes of caramelised sugar, toffee apples, red currants and bramble berry spice with a hint of cherry cola. The exotic aromatics translate into a delightfully approachable expression on the palate with generosity and opulence, tangy acids with crystalline red cherry and red plum fruits and an altogether more serious length and power on the saline finish. Very long, intense and piercing! Wow.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 15: Momento Grenache Noir 2019, Swartland, South Africa

Another complex, broody example with slight cola-tinged red cherry hints over delicate wild strawberry spiced fruits. The palate is a little wild and bloody, like fresh game birds bleeding on the chopping board as they are dusted with herbs and spices. With plenty of minerality on the finish, this is yet another artisanal Grenache that speaks of its terroir.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 16: Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019, McLaren Vale, Australia

This shows a compact, dense black fruited aromatics with youthful complexity, black plum layers, and blueberry and mint leaf nuances. If the nose was fanning the proverbial peacock’s tail, the palate is positively in full dance mode, plush, fresh, compact and youthful with rich and intense black berry fruits that remain restrained and never err on the side of vulgar sweetness, always carefully ringfenced by chalky mineral tannins with just the most delicate vermouth herbal nuance on the finish. 

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 17: Clendenen Rancho La Cuna Grenache 2019, Santa Maria Valley, USA

An exotic, overt aromatics showing a slightly more medicinal, herbal array of spice and macerated red berry fruits over barley sugar and molasses hints. While the medicinal notes dissipate, the slightly caramelised molasses black stewed fruits persist long on the palate, giving this wine a feel of ripeness, some early development and a warmer climate feel. The finish is intense, long and decidedly savoury.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wine 18: 4 Monos Viticultores La Isilla 2018, Gredos, Spain

A beautifully lifted aromatics displays notes of talc and pink musk, red cherry, strawberry candy and fresh pink bubble gum nuances. The tension and linearity on the palate are palpable, strict, focused and rasping with chalky limestone tannins, tart piercing tangy acids and a fine-grained texture that is so beautifully polished. Very impressive, mineral expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Judgement of Wimbledon Blind Scoring Procedure:

All judges are required to offer their final rankings from their favourite to least favourite, numbered from 1 to 18, with the largest score tally going to the top ranked wines which are then all added together to get a final 1 to 18 group ranking by “preference points”. So, a slightly different dynamic to that of the judges’ favourite to least favourite choices by score alone, which of course could easily see 3, 4 or even 5 different wines sitting on the same score of 94 or 95 points etc. However, judges are then required to retaste the matching scored wines and order them in a subjective preference to complete a final 1 to 18 without actually being required to change the wines final blind score. This method can sometimes lead to wines scored slightly higher, perhaps on 96.9/100, ranking lower than a wine on 96.3/100, because of judges final “preference points” tally.

Riaan Potgieter, Convenor of Judges for the Judgement of Wimbledon.

Judgement of Wimbledon Convenor of Judges 2026 Executive Summary – By Riaan Potgieter

The 10th anniversary always had to be something special, and while I knew we wanted to open some back vintages, selecting the right vintage(s) was far from straightforward. These wines are typically made in small quantities, and with many producers still relatively new, sourcing bottles was always going to be a challenge. Naturally, the further back I looked, the fewer options were available. In the end, I settled on 2018/19: old enough for the wines to be drinking beautifully, yet recent enough to ensure a compelling lineup from two excellent vintages.

Dominik Huber deep in thought mid tasting.

Armed with a selection of wines ready to drink, we were all exhilarated by the prospect of experiencing them a bit closer to their peak. What we didn’t anticipate was just how challenging that would make the tasting. Given we normally use wines from the latest vintage release, judges are used to wines being closed off initially but continuing to evolve over the course of a tasting session, but this time the wines took “evolution” to an entirely new level. They were playful and unpredictable in the best possible way. Every sip brought something new and exciting, and returning for another pour often felt like encountering a completely different wine.

Trying to rank the wines in any sort of order was equal parts delight and agony. Each wine demanded your full attention, yet the ticking clock kept dragging us back to reality and the serious business of attempting to record something remotely coherent on our tasting sheets. One thing is certain: I’ve never seen Judgement of Wimbledon judges so quiet, and for so long, before finally erupting into the inevitable excited post wine tasting chatter.

The final results revealed.

We would also like to extend a huge thank you to Juanan Martin of Rico Nuevo and Dominik Huber of Terroir al Limit for joining us at this year’s event. It felt only right to share the 10th anniversary with some of the people who made it possible and who continue to bring us so much vinous joy. It was a true honour to have them both with us for the occasion. We did, of course, do our best to persuade them to have a guess which wine was their own, but they steadfastly rebuffed even our most determined efforts.

In the end, these wines more than delivered on the brief — doing so in a way that goes far beyond anything a simple 100-point score could ever capture. The 2026 Judgement of Wimbledon provided an experience that will resonate for a very long time, far exceeding even our wildest expectations when we took our first tentative steps into this new world of light, edgy Grenache way back in 2017.

The Judgement of Wimbledon 2026: Group Blind Ranking Results

All judges were required to submit their final rankings, from favourite to least favourite, numbered from 1 to 18. Points were allocated accordingly, with higher-ranked wines receiving more points. These scores were then aggregated to produce a final group ranking from 1 to 18 based on total preference points. Under this format, first place was awarded to Terroir al Límit Les Manyes—an old favourite and a first-time winner—which secured the largest winning margin in the history of the Judgement of Wimbledon. Second place went to Marelise Niemann’s Momento Grenache, improving slightly on last year’s maiden entry and finishing in the top three for the second consecutive year. Rico Nuevo rounded out the top three with his maiden vintage of La Quebra, another strong performance following his win at last year’s event with the 2021 vintage.

The Judgement of Wimbledon 2026 Final results (by judges’ preferences).

When the results were recalculated using a straight score ranking—by averaging all judges’ 100‑point scores—the order shifted slightly, with a tighter distribution among the top wines. Les Manyes remained firmly in first place, while second and third positions were taken by Álvaro Palacios Quiñón de Valmira and Sadie Family Soldaat, respectively.

Final results by straight averaged judges’ scores.

Final Conclusions…

The 2026 tasting line-up featured an incredible array of mature Grenache wines, all representing the finest expression of terroir and winemaking from around the world. Also, it cannot be overstated that many preliminary tasting rounds took place during the course of the year with view to choosing the final line-up of wines. Merely having your wine selected for the final Judgement of Wimbledon tasting line-up should be regarded as a massive accolade in itself. 

The 2026 Grenache line-up.

For the 2027 Judgement of Wimbledon Blind Grenache Tasting, the younger 2023 vintage will be assessed. If you would like to potentially have your wines included in the tasting, please message me directly through the A Fine Wine Safari contacts page. Until next year, keep drinking Grenache!!

Fine organisation by the sommeliers at 67 Pall Mall Private Members Club.

Another Exciting New Young Gun Producer from the Breedekloof Releases Their Maiden Vintage – Tasting the Van Blommestein Colombar 2025…

I recently rated and reviewed the excellent Old Vine Chenin Blanc from Gabriel Du Bois, an ex-Elsenburg wine college student I had very briefly lectured to on the international fine wine market. Well, yet another ex-Elsenburg student I briefly lectured to has risen from the retired textbooks of university academia and finally released his own first wine – Joshua Van Blommestein. Bottled under the eponymous Van Blommestein Wines label, this is a brand Joshua established in 2023, and his first release is a highly accomplished Old Vine Colombar white from the Breedekloof.

The Elsenburg Agricultural Training Institute, to use its full name, has become world famous for cultivating highly skilled, ‘hit-the-ground-running’ kind of students who have the ability to dive straight into the complex and challenging commercial world of agriculture… and winemaking in particular. Based on what I tasted with this exciting new 2025 Colombar release, Joshua is yet another bright talent for the wine industry to keep a very close eye on. I feel honoured to be one of the first international critics to review his wine. 

Van Blommestein Wines Klipdans Colombar 2025, WO Breedekloof, 11.39% Abv.

2.2 g/l RS | 5/7 gL TA.

Most of the best Colombar expressions in the Cape come from Old Vines and this Klipdans Colombar 2025 from Joshua Van Blommestein is made from a 42-year-old heritage certified vineyard in the Breedekloof grown on rocky sandy soils. Picked in the early morning to retain freshness before being basket pressed, the juice is then settled for 24 hours and racked straight into 400 litre old oak barrels for a natural fermentation. With an 11.39% alcohol, the wine is unsurprisingly crisp, taut, and crystalline with pronounced aromatic notes of white blossoms, pear drop, green apple and cream soda alongside a well-defined stony mineral thread. The oak interplay is delicately spicy and restrained offering up subtle hints of dried herbs and cinnamon spice that follow to the palate where the wine shows an impressive glycerol mouthfeel despite its low abv. with notes of white peach, crunchy green pear and wet stone liquid minerality. Tasted over several days, any initial youthful suggestions of flinty struck match reduction blow off very quickly to reveal a beautifully pure, naked terroir expression of Colombar. The palate concentration and textural weight suggest this maiden release will drink well over 3 to 5+ years but I suggest enjoying its vibrancy and mouthwatering freshness over the next 2 to 3+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

For trade enquiries, please contact Joshua at: joshua@vbwines.co.za

Premium South African Producers Descend on London for the Liberty Wines Portfolio Tasting…

The first quarter of the year always sees the Liberty Wines Portfolio tasting at the Oval in Vauxhall, London, which features an incredible array of wines from around the world. This year I decided to focus on tasting the exciting crop of new and current release wines from South Africa in their range. Many in the UK will be aware that several key South African premium producers have recently moved over to the Liberty Wines portfolio, making it now one of the most exciting line-ups with any importer in the UK. As always, it was fantastic to catch up with the producers in person like John Seccombe, Marelise Niemann, Craig Wessels, Peter-Allan Finlayson, Chris Mullineux and others.

The Restless River New Releases from Craig Wessels will be featured in a separate write-up on A Fine Wine Safari coming very soon.

Dr Jamie Goode tasting with John Seccombe.

Thorne & Daughters:

Thorne & Daughters Paper Kite 2024, 13% Abv.

Semillon planted in 1963 on Granite soils. Rich leesy aromatics with lemon and herbs, lanoline and buttered white toast. Crisp, fleshy but beautifully saline and textured on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

John Seccombe

Thorne & Daughters Rocking Horse White Blend 2023, 13.5% Abv.

Rich and waxy with lemon and peaches, lactic leesy hints and some marzipan nuances. Fleshy, and pithy, packing a nice bit of power on the long finish. Impressive as always.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Thorne & Daughters Snakes & Ladders Sauvignon Blanc 2024, 14% Abv.

This Skurfberg vineyard delivers a pithy, waxy yellow orchard fruit characters that balance the slightly oily notes of the Sauvignon Blanc phenolics. The palate is chiselled and fresh with a vibrant saline acidity and a cool, pithy, mineral finish. Classy grown up Sauvignon!

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Thorne & Daughters Wanderers Heart 2022, 13.5% Abv.

A Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre blend. Shows exotic sweet spices, layers of red fruits and bramble berries. Acids are crisp and saline, the minerality adding extra crunch, definition and tension. Lovely textured red Rhone blend with weightless concentration.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Momento Wines:

Momento Chenin Blanc / Verdelho 2022, 13% Abv.

Complex leesy, herby, savoury aromatics before a more fleshy palate packed with granitic minerality and a yellow orchard fruit complexity. Serious effort as usual.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Momento Grenache Blanc 2023, 13.5% Abv. 

Pithy, dusty aromatics with grated apple skins, pear drops and granitic minerality. Beautifully balanced, the palate shows freshness, citrus pithiness, dried herbs and a crystalline wet river pebble finish. Top class example. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Myself and Marelise Niemann

Momento Grenache Gris 2023, 13% Abv.

Waxy green apple cordial and wet grey slate aromatics. Lovely intensity on the palate, a pronounced salinity and a cool, crystalline, mineral finish. Impressive! 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Momento Paardeberg Grenache Noir 2023, 13% Abv.

Distinct bramble berry fruit aromatics, delicately perfumed with potpourri and rose petals. Beautifully cool, mineral and restrained in the palate, taut, crystalline and pure with crunchy saline chalky red berry notes on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Peter-Allan Finlayson

Crystallum and Gabrielskloof Wines:

Crystallum The Agnes Chardonnay 2025, 13.5% Abv.

Embryonic, pithy and fresh with white citrus, green melon and delicate fruit salad and cream notes. Lovely concentration, flinty stony reductive hint with a wet river stone finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Crystallum Clay Shales Chardonnay 2025, 13% Abv.

A little more citrus, peaches and cream with leesy hints and buttered brioche nuances. Dense, compact and textured, the concentration is punchy, the toasty melon and citrus fruits intense and long.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Gabrielskloof Elodie Chenin Blanc 2024, 13% Abv.

From 40- and 45-year-old Swartland Chenin Blanc vineyards. Taut stony mineral expression with apple, peach and pear drop aromatics. There’s impressively delicate weightless green apple notes, with a cool, crystalline, easy drinking finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Crystallum Peter Max 2024, 13.5% Abv.

Beautifully aromatic nose laced with potpourri, violets, and bramble berry spice. Incredibly intense and vibrant with piercing red berry fruits, cherry and a salty finish. Wow!

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Gabrielskloof Syrah Whole Bunch 2024, 13% Abv.

A deliciously brambly, earthy peppery aromatics ps led full of smoky black berries, tar and burnt wood embers. Palate is soft and supple, cool, elegant and vibrant with crunchy acids and a long finish full of Christmas spices.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Gabrielskloof Cabernet Franc Landscape Series 2022, 14% Abv.

Beautifully expressive aromatics of sweet cedar, liquorice, tar and salty black currant. The elegance and salinity follows to a juicy, vibrant palate, finishing with graphite minerality and herbal spice.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Wines:

Mullineux Old Vine White 2024, 13.5% Abv.

Still circa 70% Chenin Blanc with some Quartz vineyard but mostly low yielding Paardeberg Chenin Blanc. Aromatics are full of sweet herbs, crushed Granite and white peach with a weightless concentration, delicately pithy fruits and a yellow orchard fruit concentration on the finish. Punch and impressive for the vintage.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Terroir Series Granite Chenin Blanc 2024, 13.5% Abv.

Lovely tangerine and white peach notes with hints of green apple, deep veins of liquid minerality and concentrated apple and white citrus on the finish. Layered, fleshy and intense, this packs a real punch.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Chris Mullineux

Mullineux Syrah 2023, 13% Abv.

A very pretty fragrant aromatics with red and black berry fruits, violets, lavander and sweet herbs. The tannins are cool and stony, pithy and mineral with notes of saline black currant, black liquorice and Granitic spice. Tangy, fresh and beautifully intense.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Mullineux Terroir Series Schist Syrah 2023, 13.5% Abv.

A beautifully fragrant and exotic aromatics showing violets, lavander, musk and stony minerality. The delicately perfumed nose gives way to a power packed palate, dense, savoury and spicy, packed full of black pepper, cured meats and smoky wood embers. A substantial wine indeed.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Leeu Passant Wines:

Leeu Passant Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, 14% Abv.

Intricate aromatics of sweet cedar, lead pencil, graphite, sweet Chai tea over black currant fruits. Silky and sleek in the mouth, cool, mineral and classically framed, this is really elegant and restrained for old world wine lovers.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Leeu Passant Chardonnay 2023, 14% Abv. 

Exotic aromatics of perfumed peach and apricot, honeydew melon, green apple and buttered white toast. Massive concentration on the palate with candied citrus, lime cordial and a fleshy green apple finish. Wow, this has a lot of stuffing.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Adi Badenhorst, a new agency for Liberty Wines.

Also on taste:  Restless River from Craig Wessels, AA Badenhorst Family Wines who’s sample bottles were mostly finished before I could taste them due to popular demand, the Bosberaad Wines from Paul Jordaan and Pauline Roux which I recently reviewed on A Fine Wine Safari, as well as a selection of Fairview Wines and Spice Route Wines. 

Pauline Roux, partner in Bosberaad Wines.

Premium Bolgheri Producer Tenuta San Guido Releases Its Highly Anticipated Sassicaia 2023…

Sassicaia 2023

And just like that, Sassicaia 100 pointers seem to be like London buses, nothing for 31 years after the legendary 1985 and then finally, the monumental 2016 release which garnered a perfect score from almost every global critic who tasted it, with the 2021 and 2023 following closely behind. Attending the London-based global launch of the Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023 release, I couldn’t help wondering out aloud if this phenomenon was a case of the market and critics finally catching up with the true Sassicaia style or had the wines really improved / changed markedly over the years?

Anyone who has drunk multiple back vintages of Sassicaia going back to the 1980s and 1990s will know that Tenuta San Guido has forged somewhat of a reputation for making memorable wines in less than memorable Tuscan vintages – a mind-blowing bottle of 1993 Sassicaia drunk a couple of years ago with friends a perfect case in point. I have very fortunately had the opportunity to taste the epic 1985 Sassicaia from bottle and magnum and it undoubtedly remains one of the great 100-point wines of perfection in modern winemaking history. Now, I just need to find a bottle of the infamous 1988 to taste, a wine that was fabled to be even better than the 1985!

Pricilla Incisa della Rocchetta, owner of Sassicaia.

The 2023 vintage in Bolgheri was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by severe outbreaks of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing Tenuta San Guido into a brutal fruit selection regime that resulted in a -20% reduction in yields overall. Only wineries willing to make these ruthless viticultural sorting sacrifices succeeded in 2023. But they say it in Bordeaux and Burgundy almost every vintage now – that there are great wines produced in almost every vintage, good and bad, and that the best wines can often rank highly amongst the most compelling fine wines. This seems to be the case with Sassicaia in 2023, a vintage that will be remembered for “fruit, salinity and length,” said Tenuta San Guido’s General Manager Carlo Paoli. 

As usual, the Sassicaia 2023 vintage was tasted alongside the new releases of Tenuta San Guido’s Le Difese and Guidalberto 2024.

Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2024, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

The 2024 Le Difese is a blend of 75% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and reveals a cool, dark fruited, broody aromatics with a delicately seductive perfume of violets, cherry blossom, black currants, and damson plum with a subtle dusting of vanilla pod spice and aniseed root. The palate is crystalline and pure, fine boned, fresh, and supple with sleek sinewy red berry fruits, red cherry, cranberry and Victoria plum. The acids are linear and bright, the tannins silky soft and pinpoint with a delicate mineral grip on the finish. Once again, almost more Pinot Noir in character and elegance but incredibly seductive. Drink now to 2034+. (375,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2024, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.

A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot, the Guidalberto 2024 shows a noticeably more lifted, perfumed, intense aromatics than its big brother Sassicaia, with fragrant rose petals, pressed violets, and wild jasmine overlayed with red and black berry fruits, black cherry and a br?l?ed savoury brown breakfast toast nuance. The palate is sleek, fresh, and piercing, deliciously bright and mouth-wateringly tart with red cherry rock candy, cranberry, dried herbs, mint leaf, and suave tight grained chalky tannins on the finish. A delightfully exotic, elegant, stylish Guidalberto with weightless concentration and a finessed intensity. Drink from 2027 to 2040+. (400,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023, Sassicaia-Bolgheri DOC, 14% Abv.

This 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc blend is fabulous bright in the glass with translucent cherry ruby red. The aromatics are slightly subdued and broody with hints of lavender and violets, tobacco leaf, and tilled earth. There is a real melange of red and black berry fruits with a leafy musk undertone. The palate is brighter and more accessible than the nose – generous, vibrant, and forthcoming with deliciously fine-grained chalky tannins, layers of mineral limestone intertwined with tart red cherry, red currant and sour plum. Plenty of stuffing and dry extract but made all the more overt and mouthwatering by the cool, crisp crystalline acids. This is a very polished, harmonious Sassicaia, supremely balanced and substantial, harmonious yet majestically elegant. Drink from 2028 to 2045+. (280,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Tenuta San Guido wines are imported into the UK by Armit Wines. Sassicaia 2023 was released at £1,250 per 6 Underbond.

Gabriel Du Bois Making Waves with His Du Bois Vineyards Sonop Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2024 Maiden Release…

DuBois Vineyards

The Sonop farm in Koelenhof, Stellenbosch has been in the du Bois family since 1931 and of the 140 hectares under vine around 20 of those hectares are planted to Old Vine Chenin Blanc, some of which have in the past been bought by wineries such as Alheit Family Vineyards, where Gabriel worked with Chris Alheit from 2020 to 2024, as well as by Bellingham who use the fruit in their famous Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc. 

Over the years, I have been persuaded by winemaker Ian Naude to do multiple wine lectures at the Elsenburg College in Stellenbosch and have built up a bit of a soft spot for the incredibly talented young students I have encountered there. Fourth-generation Gabriel du Bois also studied at Elsenburg, and this new wine is his first release under the du Bois family label, sourced from two Old Vine Chenin Blanc blocks planted in 1982 and 1986, which were whole bunch pressed, spontaneously fermented and then matured for 11 months on their fine lees in used 400 litre oak barrels. The wine was aged for an extra 6 months in bottle prior to release.

The two single vineyards behind this wine were planted on the northeastern slopes of Sonop hill in 1982 and 1986. These old heritage certified bush vines, rising above Koelenhof at 240 to 280 metres, lie on red and blue shale with fractured clay beneath, allowing deep root penetration, steady moisture uptake, and a natural fruit lift. The 2024 growing season brought heavy rain in early spring, followed by persistent, fierce False Bay breezes that dried out the topsoil and kept vigour in check. The resulting low yields delivered berries with concentration, brightness, and vivid flavour.

Du Bois Vineyards Sonop Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

This Old Vine Chenin Blanc offers up beautifully classical aromatics of warm rain on granite, dried straw, fynbos and lemon blossoms over more seductive white peach, fresh stem ginger and green apple fruit nuances. Initially very nervy, slightly reductive and tight fisted on opening as you would expect with a young 2024 wine, the perfume and fruit slowly unfurl, offering up something extra each time you nose the glass. The steely tension and linearity initially shape the palate but given a few hours to unwind, the wine shows the vintage’s archetypal effortless concentration and seamless glycerol texture with classical restraint. Deliciously saline with mouthwatering acids, the wine remains taut, racy and incredibly precise with a long, persistent honey and pear laden finish. Still embryonic, so lock this Chenin Blanc up in the cellar and revisit with interest in 2 to 3 years’ time. A phenomenal maiden release, Gabriel du Bois is definitely an exciting new young talent to watch very closely. Drink from 2027 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

For more information, visit: http://www.duboisvineyards.com

 

Polkadraai Hills Delivers Another Sensational Van Biljon Winery Release – Tasting the Cinq 2020 Cape Bordeaux Blend…

Last year I paid an excellent visit to see Chris Keet, the winemaker at the Van Biljon winery in Stellenbosch in the Polkadraai Hills, situated just behind the Raats Family Winery. I was fortunate enough to taste a selection of lovely back vintages including the Cinq maiden release Van Biljon as well as their yet unreleased 2021. But with their 2020 blend only hitting the market now, I thought I would take another look at this exciting new release from what was quite a complicated Cape vintage.

In general, it is always difficult to generalise about Polkadraai Hills vintages as so often they depart from the Stellenbosch norm with their cool, south facing vineyards overlooking False Bay, benefiting from cooling breezes off the cold Atlantic Ocean. In 2020, good winter rains in 2019 laid the foundation for a “good, solid” vintage. Fortunately, the grapes were harvested and in the cellar by the end of March before Covid-19 started a mad scurry in the wider Cape winelands. Overall, the growing season was moderate to cool with timely in-season rainfall which laid the foundations for yet another high-quality vintage. A beautifully composed wine, the Cinq 2020 draws on the best elements of each cultivar in the blend and delivers a really distinguished expression that must surely rank among the top Cape Bordeaux blend examples of the vintage. Known for its high scoring consistency, the Van Biljon Cinq is slowly becoming a Stellenbosch phenomenon, and 2020 looks to continue this trend.

Van Biljon Cinq 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

The 2020 Cinq cuvee is a majestic blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, the wine shows an enticingly fragrant, lifted, exuberant aromatics marked with sweet violets, piquant cedar spice, wet tobacco leaf, black currant and pronounced graphite lead pencil nuances. Lifted and airy, the palate is intricate and multi-dimensional revealing an energetic, vivacious character with the most seductive fine grained velvety tannins, cool spicy black currant and black cherry fruit notes, and a most agreeably fulsome and harmoniously textured balance on the spicy finish. It is surely this wine’s classical balance, effortless intensity and elegant concentration that makes it yet another incredibly attractive Cape Bordeaux blend offering. Drink now to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Van Biljon wines are available to trade in the UK from specialist importer Woodwinters, and to consumers from reputable merchants like Museum Wines.

From the Fine Wine Safari Cellar – Part 6: Trapiche Vina Jorge Miralles Malbec 2008 Single Vineyard…

The Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard selection was an annual release chosen from three of the best Malbec wines of each harvest produced by Trapiche’s head winemaker Daniel Pi. Changing every year, some vineyard selections eventually started to reappear over time, proving the vineyards’ exceptional terroir and quality potential. The wines were made to communicate the extraordinary potential of Argentina’s vast array of terroirs and their effect on their flagship cultivar – Malbec. 

This 2008 selection, which I thought was the best of the three single vineyard releases at the time, was sourced from the Jorge Miralles vineyard. Jorge was born in Chivilcoy, a province of Buenos Aires, and came to Mendoza when he was 8 years old. His father was a wine broker and in 1960, he decided to invest all his savings into an estate in La Consulta. Jorge subsequently inherited the estate and four years later he sold it to invest in a bigger vineyard also located in La Consulta. 68-year-old Jorge (in 2008) dedicated a great deal of his life to working this vineyard located at 970 metres altitude. 

Trapiche Malbec Vina Jorge Miralles Malbec 2008 Single Vineyard La Consulta, Mendoza, 15% Abv.

This is a phenomenal Malbec expression that at 18 years old is simply singing. Spending 18 months in new French oak barrels, this “Jorge Miralles” vineyard was only 10 years old when harvested in 2008 and offers up some incredibly expressive aromatics with a youthful perfume and fruit profile you would think is no more than 5 years old if tasted blind. The nose is full of deep, dark, blue, and black berry fruits, damson plums, blueberries, black cherries, and a defined vein of melted salty black liquorice. While this wine used to have a broad spectrum of dusty cocoa and mocha chocolate powder characters on release, now, this character has tightened up and turned into a picante black bitter chocolate note. On the palate, the colour is still dense, opaque, and impenetrable with a cool fleshy entry on first taste, the tannins incredibly sweet and creamy, supported by plush, juicy, black berry fruits, mulberry and black currant compote. While obviously made in a ripe style, the alcohol is imperceptible and the balance super cool, sleek and harmonious. I loved this wine on release and knew it had enough stuffing for the long haul, but I would never have expected it to age this well. What a beauty! At 18 years old, there is no rush to drink this outstanding 2008 Malbec which should still age gracefully for another decade or more.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Old Vine Project A Decade On – Tasting a Selection of Heritage Certified New Release Wines: Part 1… 

In South Africa, the Old Vine Project (OVP) exists to protect the heritage of old vines and to ensure that old vineyards continue to thrive. Old vines are living history. Wines made from them embody decades of care, skill, and dedication. In South Africa, the OVP affords producers the opportunity to certify their old vine vineyards and wines. That it can do so is largely thanks to the South African Wine Industry Information Systems (SAWIS) database, and its records dating back to 1900. This database enables the OVP to verify planting dates and gives South Africa a unique global advantage – traceability and credibility. Members of the OVP may apply for the Certified Heritage Vineyards seal that clearly states the planting date for wine made from vineyards of 35 years or older.

The OVP journey began in 2002 when ex-lawyer and vineyard manager Rosa Kruger started documenting old vines. In 2016, the Old Vine Project was formalised as an Non Profit Company. Since then, awareness and momentum have grown steadily. Today, with more than 5,000 hectares of old vines and over 350 Certified Heritage Vineyards wine bottled each year, the OVP has become a leader in both preservation and innovation. The OVP is committed not only to preserving existing old vines, but also to advancing research on old vines, developing the skills of those who care for them, and fostering climate-resilient practices; ensuring that today’s young vines have the opportunity to mature into the heritage vineyards of the future.

ACHIEVEMENTS

Achievements to date include:

  • Old vineyard hectarage in South Africa has increased from 2,952 ha in 2016 to 5,159 ha in 2024 — a 75% increase in eight years.
  • OVP membership has grown from 8 members in 2017 to over 130 members in 2025, with more than 350 Certified Heritage Vineyard wines per vintage.
  • The Certified Heritage Vineyards seal provides consumers and trade with proof of authenticity, quality, and traceability, increasingly required in international markets.
  • Launch of the Certified Heritage Vineyards Grape Trading Platform, connecting old vine growers with winemakers.
  • Development of the Old Vine Pruning Course with FELCO Africa, training pruners in specialised vineyard care.
  • Establishment of the Old Vine Academy, an online learning platform for the wine industry, trade, and media.
  • Partnership with Vititec since 2008 to develop clean plant material from old vines, resulting in ‘Heritage Selections’.
  • Collaboration with InterLoire confirming that some South African Chenin Blanc selections are extinct in France, and are now safeguarded in clonal gardens in France.
  • Research breakthroughs with various local and international research projects.
  • Recognition in international works such as The World Atlas of Wine.
  • Dedicated old vine wine sections in leading retailers and restaurants locally and internationally.
  • Recognition at leading wine competitions and wine guides.
  • At its 22nd General Assembly, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) adopted Resolution OIV-VITI 703-2024, formally recognising the work of initiatives such as the Old Vine Conference, Old Vine Project, Old Vine Registry, and Censimento Vecchie Vigne. The resolution defines an old grapevine as a documented vine at least 35 years old (with grafts undisturbed for the same period), and an old vineyard as a legally defined block where at least 85% of vines meet this definition.

Donkiesbaai Steen 2025, WO Piekenierskloof, 13.37% Abv.

Donkiesbaai is a brand that was started by Jean Engelbrecht, owner of Stellenbosch estate Rust en Vrede, with the name based on a familiar family holiday spot up the Cape West Coast. Made from Chenin Blanc (or Steen in Afrikaans) fruit from the Piekenierskloof from old vines planted in 1986 and 1988, 70% of the wine was barrel fermented and matured in 500 litre French oak barrels and 30% naturally fermented in concrete eggs on its fine lees with monthly batonnage to enhance the richness and texture of the wine. 

On the nose, there is a complex melange of fragrant white lemon blossoms, Granitic stony minerality over white citrus fruits and crunchy pear with a delicate sprinkling of dried herbs and fynbos. Youthful and energetic, this wine really shows the power, clarity, and intensity of the superb 2025 vintage, with layers of crunchy pineapple, green apple, white peach, and lemon crumble nuances. There is so much energy with a juicy tangy acidity that makes this wine a true mouth-watering treat. Still very fruit forward and primary, I suspect with a little more time in bottle, this impressive Chenin Blanc will slowly reveal its true Weskus salinity and underlying maritime influence, offering evolving drinking pleasure from release and over the next 10 to 15+ years. A true testament to the quality potential and pedigree of Old Vine Chenin Blanc. 

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Roodekrantz Donkermaan Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 12.6% Abv.

Roodekrantz Wines focuses primarily on the production of single-vineyard, site-specific wines from certified old vineyards. Their vision is to understand and nurture the vineyards they work with, doing everything possible to preserve their longevity and keep them rooted in the soil. Simply put, their winemaking philosophy is to capture the essence of the vineyard in the bottle with minimal intervention. Working exclusively with old barrels, their Chenin Blancs often undergo spontaneous malolactic fermentation, adding further complexity and texture to the wines. The Donkermaan vineyard’s vines planted in 1984 are 42 years old and sit at an altitude of 250 meters above sea level. Located in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg area, the old bush vines are dry land farmed in soils of deep red clay, a mix of Sandstone and Granite with a high iron content formed through the weathering of the surrounding mountains.

The aromatics on this young Chenin Blanc show more lifted pear drop-style esters alongside exotic notes of honey drizzled peaches, lychees, guava and green apples. Lurking beneath the rock candy nuances are dusty, Granitic mineral hints, touches of wet straw and white peaches. The palate is intense and fresh yet moderately phenolic with the 2024 telltale effortless crystalline intensity that so many white wines possess. Super lithe and sleek textured, medium bodied and beautifully supple and fine, this is another very classy Chenin Blanc that thrives more on its ethereal qualities than mere brute force power. Earlier drinking than either the 2021s or 2023s, this delicious example is good to savour now and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kaapzicht Kliprug Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

The Kliprug vineyard was planted in 1982 on a stony ridge of decomposed granite in the Bottelary Hills, where tough, dryland conditions shape the character of the wine. These old bush vines, farmed sustainably and without irrigation, produce small, flavour-packed berries that yield naturally low crops of exceptional concentration. The soils are shallow and rocky, forcing the roots deep in search of moisture, while cooling afternoon breezes from False Bay preserve the grapes’ freshness and balance.

The aromatics on this Old Vine Chenin Blanc show lovely intensity and focus and are truly evocative of the sun-baked Cape winelands – complex and layered with pithy yellow citrus, green apples, honey and white peach fruits over an earthy, wet Granite minerality that mingles with herby fynbos nuances. In the mouth, this youthful white is vibrant and zippy with a well-defined acidity, a crystalline apricot fruit purity and an elegant, effortless intensity. The wine’s light, airy, weightless characters on the palate are juxtaposed with its flavour intensity from the Old Vine fruit. This is a wonderful introduction to archetypal Stellenbosch Old Vine Chenin Blanc. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Danie Steytler Jnr. in the Kaapzicht vineyards.

Tasting and Reviewing the Riebeek Valley Wine Co. Small Batch Boutique Raar 2024 Range of Wines from the Swartland – Part 3…

With the Riebeek Valley Wine Co. increasingly featuring on many collectors’ best value fine wine lists of late, each new vintage release from winemaker Sheree Nothnagel seems to command significant attention. The pithy Skin Contact Chenin Blanc is characterful and quirky, and the Grenache Blanc and Palomino whites are benchmark examples from the Swartland. But it is undoubtedly the Carbonic Maceration Shiraz and the Grenache Noir reds that have performed exceptionally well, with the former regularly scoring in the 94 to 95 point range in the Winemag.co.za Prescient Blind Shiraz Category Awards. In my final review from the Raar range, I look at their new 2024 Grenache Noir that is currently on sale in the market.

The Riebeek Cellar Wine Co. was established in 1941 and is today owned by 30 shareholders, with some 900 hectares of vineyard under cultivation. Under the watchful eye of Sheree Nothnagel, who was previously at Wildehurst Cellar, who moved across at the end of 2019 to head up the Riebeek Valley Wine Co.’s boutique cellar with the Raar range of wines being the small production “jewel in the crown” at this Swartland winery.

RAAR Grenache Noir 2024, WO Swartland, 14% Abv.

Light fresh ethereal aromatics reveal hints of cranberry, pomegranate, bramble berry and sour plum. The palate is deliciously fleshy, tangy and energetic, beautifully fresh and mouth wateringly intense. Overall, very impressive balance and restraint on the delicately herby, pithy, mineral laden finish. Another cracking wine from Sheree Nothnagel that represents incredible value for money. Drink now to 2030+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)