Paris Digalas

OENO P was founded by Paris Sigalas in the old wine cave (canava) of his family on the island of Santorini in the Greek Cycladic Islands, after he sold his long-established winery brand Domaine Sigalas. This new venture is located right next to the sea, in the area of the Kolumbo volcano, in Baxedes-Oia.

The focus of Paris Sigalas and his new OENO P winery is on small production (up to 20,000 bottles per year) of very high-quality boutique wines, with each vineyard being vinified in separate amphorae. A pioneer of modern Santorini winemaking, Paris continues to push the boundaries of what is possible by producing premium landmark Santorini white wines for ‘educated Assyrtiko connoisseurs.’

After several very hot and dry vintages on Santorini, culminating in a very challenging 2021 harvest, the high quality 2022 vintage finally brings some well needed respite for wineries and growers that have been confronted in many instances by rising costs and falling quality – a less-than-ideal scenario for wineries looking to build premium brands in the global market. The wines of OENO P are decidedly premium in price, but equally, they are among the finest premium Assyrtiko whites I have tasted from Santorini.

OENO P Tria Ampelia 2022, PDO Santorini, Greece, 14.5% Abv.

This is certainly one of the most ambitious Assyrtikos from Santorini that I’ve tasted in a long time. The grapes come from three different vineyards all over 60 years old, in Fira, Akrotiri and Megalochori. The wine was fermented and matured in 750 litre and 1,600 litre clay amphorae for 16 months and then left on its fine lees with no oak usage. The aromatics are strikingly rich and exotic but always showing some telltale stony, mineral hints from the amphorae, over complex notes of grapefruit marmalade, white peach, fig preserve, lemon rind, lemon tart, honeysuckle, oystershell and subtle talc nuances. The full-bodied palate has all the Paris Sigalas hallmark richness and ripeness, intricately interwoven freshness and notes of oatmeal dough, wet basalt, white peaches, honeycomb and a savoury leesy intensity. The concentration is such that the intensity of fruit almost resembles a dry botrytis wine, layered, textural and wonderfully glycerol in the mouth. This is undoubtedly a wine for Assyrtiko connoisseurs. Drink now or allow it to age gracefully for 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

OENO P Akulumbo’ Nykteri Assyrtiko 2022, PDO Santorini, Greece, 15% Abv.

This Nykteri Assyrtiko, in its most extreme form, perfectly expresses the uniqueness of Santorini’s volcanic terroir, inspired by the underwater volcano known as Kolumbo, which the locals of Oia used to call “Akulumbo”. This cuvee is a full bodied, hedonistic white wine made from 100% Assyrtiko grapes from an “overripe harvest”, picked mid-September, or around a month after the regular Assyrtiko harvest. The grapes were then fermented and matured on their fine lees in a 1600-litre amphorae for 24 months. The result is a uniquely local Santorini expression of Assyrtiko, characterized by an exceptionally rich body, long aftertaste, and a higher alcohol content. This “Akulumbo” 2022 certainly boast a heady, opulent aromatics of wet basalt and petrol over complex notes of grapefruit preserve, ripe peaches, crystallised lemon slices, apple crumble, honeysuckle and grated tangerine peel. The 2022 vintage expresses an exceptional breadth and depth, assembled with the most impressive harmony and balance, with the extra ripeness and richness perfectly balanced by refreshingly tangy acids, leaving the higher alcohol almost imperceptible. Despite the 24 months ageing on its lees in amphorae, the purity of fruit is extraordinary, emphasizing just how great the 2022 vintage really was. Power, balance and intensity in perfect synergy. Drink now and over the next 8 to 10+ years. (1,800 bottles produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

OENO P Tria Ampelia Pithari II 2022, PDO Santorini, Greece, 14.5% Abv.

Pithari II is one of the amphorae used for the Tria Ampelia 2022 blend made by Paris Sigalas’ new winery OENO P, originating from a single vineyard in the village of Akrotiri. Fermented with native yeasts, leaving some residual sugars, and matured sur lie for 18 months. Inspired by the distinguished nuances emanating from its complexity and subtle RS, the wine was bottled unfiltered from amphorae, in a very limited production run, designed to represent, as Paris explains, “a weird and stimulating Santorini expression aimed at mainly friends of Santorini’s various Assyrtiko styles.” On the nose, the aromatics are indeed incredibly precise and focused, delivering a tight-knit assemblage of crushed basaltic minerality, pithy grapefruit, lime peel, white blossom, warm buttered white toast, green Rooibos tea, and delicate peach fruit nuances. The palate is sleek and suave, boasting a massive dry extract concentration underpinned by zippy, well-integrated bright acids and a sophisticated level of wound-spring textural tension. But above all, it’s the elegance and pristine harmony of the overall wine that leaves the greatest lasting impression. Undoubtedly, one of the finest premium expressions of Assyrtiko I have ever tasted from Santorini. Drink now and over the next 8-10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)