Patronus

With a bottle of 2021 Book XVII from De Toren winery waiting to be tasted and reviewed, I thought I’d revisit a couple of their 2020 releases to recalibrate my palate. The Book XVII Cape Bordeaux Blend was born from a pursuit of excellence blended with a passion for craftsmanship, isolating the very best that nature has to offer, commencing with the maiden 2010 vintage release. The name Book XVII was inspired by one of the first pieces of literature dedicated solely to wine and extreme viticulture methods written over two millennia ago by Roman philosopher, Pliny the Elder. 15 years later, the Book XVII blend has become an integral part of the De Toren icon wine range, with this unique super premium red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec born from a desire to craft a wine that could stand confidently amongst some of the greatest premium red wines in the world. The result of this devotion to precision is an incredibly limited production of a mere 6 barrels and an irresistible, lush red blend with a hedonistic depth and impressive purity and complexity.

Book XVII is the result of 20 years’ exhaustive recording and analysis of countless vineyard variables in the Polkadraai Hills, from soil composition and weather conditions to oceanographic influences. With modern viticulture methods, bold experimental winemaking, and masterful use of various Bordeaux barriques, Book XVII now ranks among the top Cape Bordeaux Blend expressions produced in the Cape winelands. Unashamedly luxurious, ripe and hedonistic in style, this wine has never looked to mimic anything else produced in the Cape, and as a result, has comfortably cultivated a loyal consumer following both at home and internationally.

De Toren Book XVII 2020 Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 15.15% Abv.

2.7g/l RS | 5.4g/l TA | 3.59pH

It is always fascinating cracking another vintage of one of De Toren’s icon wines as I have seen, in person, the attention to detail that is performed both in the vineyards and in the winery to capture the purest essence of quality from their exceptional Polkadraai Hills vineyards in Stellenbosch. The 2020 release is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, and 19% Cabernet Franc that was aged for 22 months in 100% new 225 litre French oak barrels. This impressive 2020 Bordeaux Blend is another opulent and generously constructed red with alluring aromatics of dusty crushed granite, freshly shaved cedar wood spice, wet tobacco leaves over hints of dried violets, black currant herbal tea, black cherry and a spicy capsicum note. Surprisingly mineral and restrained on the nose, the palate is a little more upfront and fleshier but with all components of fruit, acid and tannin so meticulously integrated so as to present a wonderfully synergistic red blend with a seamless transition between the sweet inky black berry fruits, the spicy cedar and tobacco complexity, and a fine-grained mineral-laden dry tannin finish. Incredibly youthful still and deserving of further time in the cellar, this is nevertheless a very impressive premium red wine honed for the most sophisticated of global connoisseurs. Drink now after a decant and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Two of De Toren’s three ultra-premium wines along with their Black Lion Syrah.

De Toren Patronus Malbec 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Created to try and craft one of the most exceptional expressions of this grape cultivar in the Cape winelands, this bold hedonistic ultra-premium red is made from decades-old Malbec vines in the Polkadraai Hills, with individual bunches hand-picked and then individual berries selected. Three distinct vessels were used for whole berry fermentation, each chosen to highlight the opulence, purity and typicity of premium Malbec. Predominantly matured in new French oak barrels, the results on the 2020 are suitably impressive. The aromatics resonate with plush, ripe, intense notes of blue berry and black berry fruits, sappy mulberries, and black plum with delicate undertones of vanilla pod spice, complex cedar oak and exotic Christmas spices. The palate shows the accessible opulence of the 2020 vintage, broad, deep, and powerful under a creamy, concentrated fleshy textured veil of velvety tannins and soft, integrated acids. Opulent and hedonistic in every sense of the word, this is an incredibly impressive expression of Malbec, the grape that is currently having a massive love affair with the Cape’s terroir. Drink now on release or cellar for 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Born from a desire to craft one of the finest ultra-premium Malbec wines in the world, comes the distinct De Toren Patronus made from several decade old Malbec vineyards in the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch. A super premium expression priced at R3,666 per bottle cellar door (£160), this wine unashamedly puts its trust in precision viticulture to challenge, head on, some of the most famous benchmark premium Malbec’s produced primarily by wineries in Mendoza, Argentina.

Some may think that South Africa has no right to muscle in on yet another international variety and produce expressions that annoyingly, clearly rival some of the world’s other great examples. But South Africa has a knack of doing this… with Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand & Loire), Chenin Blanc (Loire Valley), Syrah (Rhone), Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux and Napa Valley), Cabernet Franc (Loire Valley), and now Malbec (Mendoza and Cahors). All these examples go a long way to illustrate how exceptional and versatile the multiple vineyard terroirs in the Cape truly are. After tasting the Patronus 2021, you may now also have to add Malbec to your long South African shopping list!

De Toren Patronus Malbec 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This 2021 Malbec from De Toren is one of the few superstar expressions of premium Malbec produced in South Africa where you get to witness the true majesty and opulence of this cultivar delivered with full impact concentration and kaleidoscopic aromatics. Beautifully seductive in its youth, the nose boasts a broad array of floral magic… pressed violets and rose petal perfume accompanied by smoky layers of cigar ash, cocoa powder, crushed granite minerality, and spicy cedar oak nuances all supported by plush, sumptuous raspberry, sappy black currant and sweet cherry tobacco hints. The medium-bodied palate is soft, supple and powdery with sweet fine-grained creamy tannins that melt into layer upon layer of sweet mulberry, black berry compote and pomegranate fruits, all wonderfully framed and shaped by refreshing, lively energetic acids. This is an exceptionally well balance expression of Malbec that follows a path of elegance and precision and delivers a beautifully long, vibrant, expressive finish. Drink this beauty on release after an hours decant and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)