Torero

I reviewed Fernando Rueda’s first Rueda Family Wines Carignan in December 2021 and the review garnered a lot of interest as one of the very few single varietal Carignan cultivar wines produced in South Africa. The second release from the 23-year-old Wellington vineyard is now joined by a sumptuous Syrah produced from Stellenbosch fruit on Karibib. Both wines are produced with minimal intervention in a more artisanal style but shouldn’t be view as ‘natural wines.’ Not yet available in the UK, but do track them down if you are in the Cape.

Torero And Pasiphae 2022 Syrah, WO Stellenbosch, 14.37% Abv.

1.02g/l RS | 4.75g/l TA | 3.81pH

This 2022 Syrah displays a wonderfully exotic aromatics that combines intricately fragrant notes of Parma violets, purple rock candy, grape soda, raspberry confit, melted black liquorice and piquant black cherry with more subtle hints of smoked meats, black pepper corns and graphite spice developing in the glass. The palate is beautifully full, plush and fleshy with sweet creamy tannins, tangy acids and a seductive peppery layer of blue berries, creme de cassis and mulberry nuances. An impressively intense, powerful expression of Syrah that shows its obvious ripeness without compromising either its fruit purity or its mineral focus. A very well-honed expression of Stellenbosch Syrah! Drink now and over the next 5 to 8+ years. (1,292 bottles and 28 magnums produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Torero And the Suit of Lights Carignan 2022, WO Wellington, 14.86% Abv.

2.19g/l RS | 5.36g/l TA | 3.61pH

The maiden release of the Torero Carignan 2021 was an impressively tight, taut, slightly reductive creation that led with a stony mineral precision. The 2022 is an altogether riper, richer, more densely fruited example that boasts a flamboyant bruleed black fruited aromatics of black currant confit, plum spice and black cherry over black olive tapenade, iron filings and a subtle roasted vanilla pod nuance. Where the 2021 was a cool, slightly lean 12.5% Abv., the 2022 is a riper, more opulent 14.86% Abv. which lends a massive amount of extra glycerol depth and breadth to the palate. Carignan can quite often be quite a meaty, rustic variety, but this impressive Torero tames the wild side of Carignan, offering up pure, plush blue and black berry fruits with creamy soft sweet tannins and a long, spicy, densely fruited cola tinged finish. This is surely one of the finest single cultivar examples in the country!? Drink on release and over the next 5 to 8+ years. (856 bottles and 12 magnums produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Carignan is a red grape variety of Spanish origin that is more commonly found in French wine but is widely planted throughout the western Mediterranean in the Languedoc-Roussillon, Sardinia, and Catalonia. Carignan (also known as Mazuelo, Cariñena, Carinyena, Samsó, Carignane, and Carignano) is believed to have originated in Carinena, Aragon, Spain and was later transplanted to Sardinia, elsewhere in Italy, France, Algeria, and much of the New World. Carignan is a late budding and ripening grape which requires a warm climate in order to achieve full physiological ripeness making countries like South Africa suitable bedfellows for quality grape growing.

The fruit for this small boutique wine is sourced from 22-year-old Carignan vines nestled in a picturesque valley in Wellington, Western Cape. The wine was made with a minimal intervention philosophy employing a light cap management and eight to ten days of skin maceration with manual punch downs and pump overs. Thereafter, the wine spent eight months in old oak barrels and was bottled in September 2021 using only small amounts of sulphur. Total production was a mere 800 bottles.

Rueda Family Wines Torero and the Suit of Lights Carignan 2021, WO Wellington. 12.5% Abv.

1.94g/l RS | 6.89g/l TA | 3.43pH

A very individual expression of Carignan that shows a touch of spicy, flinty reduction over sea breeze, dried kelp, salty cassis, sour black plum and exotic complexing layers of graphite and crushed granite minerality. The palate is cool, penetrating but impressively punchy with zippy intense glassy acids, more sour black plum, tart spiced cranberry notes and a linear mouthfeel of intelligently early picked fruit. An accomplished, well-made wine that is ready to drink now after a short decant or good to cellar for another 5 to 8+ years. This is artisanal winemaking done very well. If you are a lover of Rhone varieties, snap up a case of this new release with confidence.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)