Usana

Over the past few years, brothers Pierre and John Philip (JP) Winshaw have released some impressive wines within their premium Winshaw Vineyards range, including two Cape Bordeaux blends, a single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and an impressive Malbec, all of which have sold incredibly well locally and internationally. The range is of course continuously evolving and being fine tuned and this year sees another very impressive range of more modest value for money “estate wines” released under their straight Winshaw label, previously known as Usana. On the whites, the range includes a Chenin Blanc, a Chardonnay and a delightful Pinot Gris. I recently cracked a bottle of their new 2024 release to see if it was something to get excited about.

Winshaw The Runaway Pinot Gris 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

Pinot Gris (or Grigio in Italy) can be a pretty innocuous grape making thin dilute cocktail wines. But this beauty from the Winshaw brothers is more in the premier league alongside top examples from Friuli, Alto Adige and of course Alsace in France. For starters, this sophisticated example was fermented in a combination of stainless steel and old oak barrels with extended ageing on its fine lees (fermentation yeast sediment) lending the wine more complex aromatics and an extra textural dimension.

The characterful nose is jam packed full of fragrant white blossoms, candied summer fruits, crunchy pineapple, white peach with a zesty twist of lime peel citrus. The palate is equally inviting, medium bodied but impressively fleshy, pithy and fresh revealing a delightful yellow orchard fruit phenolic grip, more white peach and tangy green apple fruits dusted with dried baking herbs. The bright acidity kicks in again on the finish, offering the wine a crystalline purity and a pithy yellow citrus energy. A dynamic, versatile white wine that ticks all the boxes – from stand alone quaffing to more intricate food and wine pairings. Drink now to 2028+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Winshaw Pinot Gris is available in the UK from South African specialist merchant Museum Wines at a modest £16.99 per bottle retail.

I first met brothers Pierre and John Philip (JP) Winshaw in 2018 when I was asked to co-chair the incredible Whole Bunch Tasting titled ‘The Wines That Raised Us’, just before the Cape Wine 2018 trade fair. The Winshaw brothers had pulled a number of incredibly rare old South African heritage bottles out of their grandfather, Bill Winshaw’s cellar, to present to the who’s who of the world’s wine trade. It was at this prestigious tasting that I rated my first South African wine 100 points – the Chateau Libertas 1957, now a legendary wine.

Today, the Winshaws combine traditional farming with grape growing on their Stellenbosch property Klein Welmoed, selling fruit to some of Stellenbosch’s most notable producers. But the brothers not only make their own wines under the Usana label, but they have also more recently, started making a premium range of Cape Bordeaux blends under the Winshaw Vineyards label. The line-up includes a delicious straight Malbec (which I recently rated 93/100) and two super cuvees, one based around Cabernet Sauvignon and one based around Cabernet Franc. The two red blends honour their great-grandfather Dr William Charles Winshaw, founder of Stellenbosch Farmers Winery (SFW), and the second their grandfather Bill, another key figure in the history of the SFW.

Ahead of my departure for Cape Wine 2022, I decided to get into the spirit of things by tasting and reviewing the Charles Winshaw Cuvee, their Cabernet Sauvignon based blend.

Winshaw Vineyards ‘Charles Winshaw Cuvee’ 2017, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

A serious blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec and 4% Merlot, I tasted this wine over the course of three days to assess its true fine wine potential. On opening, the aromatics showed classical Stellenbosch Cabernet notes of sweet tobacco, tannery leather, black currant, black plum, chai tea and freshly tilled earth notes. The palate was full and glycerol with creamy soft sweet tannins, layers of black and blue berry fruits with the classic 2017 vintage weightless concentration. Fabulously balanced with classical poise and harmony. But on day two and day three, the wine shed some of its initial sapidity and sweet tea leaf and tobacco notes to reveal an incredible purity, depth of blue and black berry fruits and a seamlessly vibrant cherry-laden tangy intensity on the finish. I am so pleased I gave this wine the time and space to really show its blue-blooded pedigree. As the cliché goes, the first glass was delicious, but the last glass was mind blowing. Track this beauty down if you can as the R300 local price tag (£16-£18) is ridiculously cheap. Drink now and over the next 12 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)