As one of the most important quality white wine categories globally, Chardonnay can also be one of the most controversial and divisive varieties for a multitude of reasons. From topics like Premox in White Burgundy to prices of White Burgundy, to whether anyone other than the Chablisienne should even contemplate trying to produce premium unoaked Chardonnay or not, much of the dialogue seems to pivot on the divide between what Burgundy and France produces and then what everyone else does.
But what the big New World versus Burgundy Blind Chardonnay Challenge taste off revealed… (link below)
… was that some New World countries are certainly producing some incredibly profound premium quality Chardonnay in styles that can easily challenge the greats of the Côte d’Or. Among the best of these are probably New Zealand, Australia and of course California (with South Africa still narrowly off the pace of the top runners but improving incredibly quickly).
The evolution in Californian Chardonnay has certainly been profound with top quality producers favouring freshness, elegance, focus, acidity and structure over stereotypical aspects of fruit sweetness, heavy oak and higher alcohols. Certainly none of the later traits were present when Californian wine legends David Ramey and Jim Clendenen rolled into London to present a joint Chardonnay masterclass with a selection of their older vintages.
Ramey Wine Cellars Chardonnay Flight:
Ramey Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2014, 14.5 Abv.
Around 30% new oak, crystalline and bright fruited showing piercing lemon cordial, yellow grapefruit zest and pineapple pastille with the most subtle, integrated kiss of vanilla oak spice. Lush and concentrated, this beauty show piercing lemon confit intensity, wonderful breadth and power but packed with the most delicious harmony and complexity. Very impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ramey Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, 14.5 Abv.
Lovely Burgundian nose of pithy limestone, wet chalk, pineapple pastille, lemon rock candy and creamy butterscotch. Lovely fleshy weight, super relaxed balance texture, green apple zip, vanilla pod spice and finely punctuated with bright lemony acids and flinty, chalky mineral frame. A very attractive proposition at the moment, but no rush.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ramey Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2007, 14.5 Abv.
From a cooler, leaner, pithy vintage, this archive release is a tantalising wine that offers hints of tertiary honied complexity but also retains youthful lemon and lime pithy freshness. Lovey lemon cordial, lemon crumble, buttered pastries sprinkled with grapefruit marmalade. Intense core structure, vibrant acids, smokey pithy oak spice and a delicious greengage, smoky truffle tinged finish. Really profound and a consistently very solid performer.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
David Ramey in full flow…
Ramey Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2005, 14.5 Abv.
About 2/3rd aged in new oak, after sitting in the glass for over 30 minutes, this 2005 remains aromatically restrained, positively shy. A few rigorous swirls coax out notes of lemon confit, shiitake mushrooms, earthy bruised yellow orchard fruits and dusty, chalky mineral pithy yellow grapefruit. Full, intense and mouth coating, there is wonderful concentration that is accentuated by softer acids, a fleshy glycerol texture and spicy vanilla pod limestone mineral finish. Very harmonious offering drinking impressively now.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Flight:
Au Bon Climate Bien Nacido Hillside Chardonnay 2015, 13.5 Abv.
Youthful opulence with some exuberance but still aromatically primary revealing green apple, banana bon bons, yellow rock candy, quince and green pear purée. The palate is more Burgundian with the most delicious lemon cordial, apple sweets, honeydew melon and subtle creamy oak spice. This is a baby that will benefit from at least another 2 years in the cellar to open its shoulders.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Au Bon Climate Bien Nacido Hillside Chardonnay 2010, 13.5 Abv.
Super tight, mineral and restrained, this is a surprisingly mineral, taut effort that plays its cards very close to its chest. Hints of green lime peel, limestone and wet chalk follow to an incredible tart, fresh, limey pastille and lemon cordial palate brimming with energy, vibrancy, concentration and character. Incredibly youthful, this is a real eye-opener. Wow!
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Au Bon Climate Bien Nacido Hillside Chardonnay 2007, 13.5 Abv.
Complex nose of old lemons, bruised yellow orchard fruits and honied apple purée. Very savoury, more evolved with an oxidative complexity, honied lemons, butterscotch, toffee apple and sweet lemon cordial. Oxidative lift starts to blow off leaving a beautifully nuanced food friendly expression.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Au Bon Climate Bien Nacido Hillside Chardonnay 2005, 13.5 Abv.
Super complex expression, with lovely waxy apple purée, wet chalk, sour plum, wet chalk, greengage, and lovely honied green citrus. Plenty of flinty, earthy complexity, wonderfully fleshy and full, great palate breadth, finishing with real punch and intensity, concentration and depth. Lovely food wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ramey Wine Cellars and Au Bon Climat are distributed to trade in the UK by Fields, Morris & Verdin.
Greg Sherwood MW 
Greg, I’m a big fan of both of these winemakers. Love the Pinot Gris from Au Bon too.
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