I first encountered Gunter Schultz’s delicious Colombar at the Cape Wine Trade Fair 2022 where he was also pouring his impressive Baleia Wines. The Reisiger 2022 is made from 29-year-old Colombar bush vines grown by Danie “Dumpies” van der Merwe from Mostertshoek near Goudini in the Breedekloof.

Sold in previous years to the local co-operative winery, Gunter and Danie decided that these nearly old vine vineyards would be perfect for producing a premium dry Colombar, a style rising in popularity by the day, as championed by Colombar high disciples like Ian Naude with his Langpad, Sakkie Mouton with his Vloedvlak, and Tinus Kruger with the original Aspoestertjie Colombard made from a 40-year-old vineyard in Riebeeksrivier in the Swartland. For their first wine, only four rows were used in a one-off experimental production of just over 1000 bottles… and the results are remarkable.

Gunter Schultz Reisiger Colombar 2022, WO Western Cape, 11% Abv.

Like all the very best examples coming on to the market in South Africa, the Reisiger is impressively cool, clean and precise with a crystalline demeanour and mouth-watering aromatics of lime peel, fresh guava, wet hay, dried herbs, and freshly cut apple with underlying notes of crushed gravel and wet slate adding fabulous nuances of minerality. The palate is mouthwatering and steely, pure, crisp and bright with a tart tangy lemony acidity, notions of crunchy white peach, pithy lemon peel, lime cordial and a salty, stony liquid minerality on the finish. What elevates this wine in stature is not only its crystalline purity and laser-like focus,  but also the electric underlying acid tension and structure on the palate, not dissimilar to a premium flinty Pouilly Fumé from the Loire or a vibrant old vine Assyrtiko from Greece. A beautifully conceived wine that is deftly handled, fabulously pure and fresh, but never frivolous. A perfect summertime indulgence.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)