Naude Family Wines Releases Their Most Eye-Catching Chenin Blanc Yet – Tasting the Harmonious But Intense Old Vine Stellenbosch 2021…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The more wines I taste from 2021 in the Cape, the more I believe that this is truly one of the greatest vintages in South Africa’s modern history. For so many producers from so many diverse regions, from the Swartland to Stellenbosch, Elgin to the Hemel-en-Aarde, Paarl to the Klein Karoo, simply everyone seems to have made some exceptional white and red wines in this vintage. But the real clincher is when you talk to the winemakers themselves, whether they are the owners of their businesses and brands or merely working a day job, they all tell you that they don’t think they will make another vintage quite like 2021s in their careers, then you know that they certainly feel the conditions were not only unusual but also exceptional.

For Ian Naude, known to switch between Old Vine vineyards from year to year, he unusually decided to make not only his 2020 Chenin Blanc from this Old Vine Stellenbosch vineyard near the Blaauklippen Estate, but also decided to use this vineyard to make his 2021 vintage in this unusually cool growing season that saw a cold and wet climate with winter rainfall from May to June consistently above average. Cooler conditions significantly impacted the ripening process by slowing down the first half of the harvest before warmer conditions returned towards the end of harvest. In general, ripening was delayed by around 10 to 14 days compared to 2020, most notably among white cultivars, which displayed exceptionally low pH levels and high, bracing acids combined with low alcohols – a Naude wine lovers dream vintage?

With so much recent attention focused on Ian’s escapades up the Wes Kus with his Old Vine Langpad Colombard and his exceptional new Soutbos Old Vine Chenin Blanc / Colombard white blend, one can be forgiven for forgetting that Ian cemented much of his eminent white wine reputation with his maiden Naude Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2013, which still remains to this day, an iconic wine in the annals of Cape winemaking history. This phenomenal new 2021 could very well equal or surpass the heights of the 2013 given half a chance.

Naude Family Wines Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 12% Abv.

1.82g/l RS | 6.03g/l TA | 3.39pH

Few new wine releases from Ian Naude have created as much excitement as the new Old Vine Chenin Blanc from the 2021 vintage. Already being lauded as one of the most exceptional white and red wine vintages in South Africa in the past 20+ years, this delicious new white does not compromise this notion in any way. First tasted pre-release in March 2023, the wine was a little shy and retiring, giving mere hints of its ultra fine purity, tightly wound structure, its taut acid tension and glimmers of its incredibly harmonious, crystalline fruit concentration. This unusually cool and long vintage has allowed the vines to produce some pristine Chenin Blanc fruit that is undoubtedly sprinkled with more than a pinch of magic dust, boasting incredibly attractive aromatics of pear puree, white peach, crunchy Granny Smith apples, with dried hay, delicate dried baking herbs and an undeniable wet granite minerality. But it is on the palate where the true fireworks ignite, being packed full of piercing tart yellow peach, sour plum, quince and zesty green apple fruit concentration, all wrapped up in a tightly wound but subtle, nervy core of energy so powerful and intense it could be mainlined directly into the Cape Town power grid! Like all truly great wines, the 2021 achieves all its intensity and commanding focus with a supremely unobtrusive elegance, crystalline purity and harmonious synchronicity making this one of Ian’s greatest Chenin Blanc releases to date. Drink now and over the next 15 to 20 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

De Toren Wines Releases Their Patronus Malbec 2021 That Rivals Many of the World’s Greatest Malbec Reds…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Born from a desire to craft one of the finest ultra-premium Malbec wines in the world, comes the distinct De Toren Patronus made from several decade old Malbec vineyards in the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch. A super premium expression priced at R3,666 per bottle cellar door (£160), this wine unashamedly puts its trust in precision viticulture to challenge, head on, some of the most famous benchmark premium Malbec’s produced primarily by wineries in Mendoza, Argentina.

Some may think that South Africa has no right to muscle in on yet another international variety and produce expressions that annoyingly, clearly rival some of the world’s other great examples. But South Africa has a knack of doing this… with Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand & Loire), Chenin Blanc (Loire Valley), Syrah (Rhone), Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux and Napa Valley), Cabernet Franc (Loire Valley), and now Malbec (Mendoza and Cahors). All these examples go a long way to illustrate how exceptional and versatile the multiple vineyard terroirs in the Cape truly are. After tasting the Patronus 2021, you may now also have to add Malbec to your long South African shopping list!

De Toren Patronus Malbec 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This 2021 Malbec from De Toren is one of the few superstar expressions of premium Malbec produced in South Africa where you get to witness the true majesty and opulence of this cultivar delivered with full impact concentration and kaleidoscopic aromatics. Beautifully seductive in its youth, the nose boasts a broad array of floral magic… pressed violets and rose petal perfume accompanied by smoky layers of cigar ash, cocoa powder, crushed granite minerality, and spicy cedar oak nuances all supported by plush, sumptuous raspberry, sappy black currant and sweet cherry tobacco hints. The medium-bodied palate is soft, supple and powdery with sweet fine-grained creamy tannins that melt into layer upon layer of sweet mulberry, black berry compote and pomegranate fruits, all wonderfully framed and shaped by refreshing, lively energetic acids. This is an exceptionally well balance expression of Malbec that follows a path of elegance and precision and delivers a beautifully long, vibrant, expressive finish. Drink this beauty on release after an hours decant and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren wines are imported into the UK by The Wine Treasury and are available from specialist merchants like Museum Wines.

ALS Wines Release Another Exceptional Extreme Terroir Santorini Assyrtiko 2020…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

ALS is the exceptional terroir driven dry white wine creation from three young Greek winemaking talents in Yiannis Papaoikonomou, Ilias Roussakis and Alexis Kolovos. Yiannis Papaoikonomou studied oenology in Athens before coming to Santorini in 2009 to work at Domaine Sigalas, where he worked as a vineyard manager (under the guidance of a consultant) and as an assistant winemaker. In 2013, Yiannis left Santorini to go to Chile (Vina Maquis), New Zealand (Oyster Bay) and France (Chapoutier) for further work experience and in 2015 he finally returned to Santorini to literally help build the Vassaltis Winery from scratch with Ilias Roussakis.

After working the 2023 harvest in South Africa, Yiannis returned back to Santorini to focus on his various projects including the magnificent ALS extreme terroir white wine. What makes this wine special is the way it retains all the characteristics that have made Santorini Assyrtiko great and certainly world famous – Salinity, acidity, nervy freshness, volcanic minerality, and its maritime influences both on the nose and palate. Top Santorini Assyrtiko whites are expensive wines to buy these days, but I can’t help feel than so many of the top names have struggled to reach the heights of quality seen in exceptional vintages like the 2017s. Nowadays, the wines just seem fatter, riper, oilier, less fresh, less mineral, less nervy, less saline and generally less volcanic… all the features that should set these great wines apart from other Greek white wines, especially the ones from the mainland. But then you taste wines like the ALS, and you realise that some producers are still making wines that resonate with quality!

The ALS 2020 was produced from a manually picked cluster selection in the vineyards on 24th August 2020. Harvested very early in the morning, the fruit from Santorini was then transported to Syros in a refrigerated truck where it underwent direct pressing with racking after 12 hours. After fermentation, the wine saw bâtonnage for four months and then lay “Sur Lie” for 13 months. The 2020 was bottled on the 10th February 2022. Production is very small, only circa 1,300 bottles, so you’ll need to be very quick if you are going to successfully buy a bottle.

ALS Extreme Terroir Assyrtiko 2020, Santorini, 13% Abv.

6.8g/l TA | 3.08pH | 0.3g/l VA

The 2020 dry white Assyrtiko from Yiannis Papaoikonomou and the Absinthos LP project is an incredibly vivid wine release that simply oozes volcanic terroir. A translucent pale straw yellow in the glass, the aromatics span the full array of mineral, herbal, and fruit notes all tightly wound under a magnificent maritime sea breeze veil. Wonderfully pure and precise, the wine reveals layer upon layer of briney salinity, basaltic rocks, roasted almonds, white toast, yellow plum, white peach, yellow citrus and green pear with a light dusting of dried green herbs. The palate too is packed full of flavour fireworks, conveying a real sense of seashore complexity, crashing waves, and volcanic beaches. This 2020 offers stunning fruit purity and a bright, salty, piercing acidity that is so integral to premium Santorini Assyrtiko. With a little more time in the glass, delightful hints of nectarine, oyster shell and hazelnuts develop, all intertwined with a delicious wet river stone basaltic minerality on the finish. Sublime balance, invigorating acids and a mouth-watering salinity make this one of the most impressive Assyrtiko’s produced from Santorini. Drink now and over the next 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

http://www.als-wine.com

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Release Their Finest Premium Red Wine Yet – Tasting the Rabelais Cape Bordeaux Blend 2021…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Thelema Rabelais red blend originally started out as the prestigious Thelema Cape Winemakers Guild blend before evolving into the Rabelais label with the 2007 vintage, being produced originally from only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. From 2009, Petit Verdot started to replace the Merlot portion and now the blend appears fairly settled at approximately a 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot mix. The Rabelais represents the very best Bordeaux components from the Thelema range where the wines clearly show concentration, polished ripe tannins and undeniable refinement.

The 2021 vintage in the Cape was, by most accounts, extremely good. The growing season began with a cooler than average winter, which saw some heavy rains, which helped restore some of the water tables ravaged by the severe drought between 2015 and 2019. The cool weather continued into the spring, delaying budburst, while the rains raised the risk of rot and disease. Frost also struck surprisingly several times, damaging new vine growth, however, the vines were able to bounce back reasonably well and flowering was largely a success. Summer was benign, albeit cooler than normal, and grapes were slow to reach phenolic ripeness – although their aromatics and acidity were perfectly preserved – and the harvest was delayed beneficially by several weeks. Despite the delay, good conditions prevailed, and the harvest was a massive success. Some even suggest that this is the best vintage in the Cape in the past two decades.

Thelema Rabelais Red Blend 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

Another tantalisingly seductive 2021 vintage wine meets you in the form of the Rabelais 2021. Now generally regarded as one of the top Cape Bordeaux Blends produced in the Western Cape, this new vintage made from 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot typifies the cool, taut, linear tension and weightless purity of the vintage. But as elegant and sleek as it is, it is not simply a 2017 lookalike, showing an equal or greater fruit concentration, ripe intense resolved tannins that are assertive but incredibly fine grained, and a piecing crystalline freshness. The aromatics burst with black cherry, tart saline cassis, damson plum, sweet rose petals, earthy balsamic and pickled walnut nuances, with subtle earthy bruleed charcoal hints, stewed blueberries and a deliciously solid core of black berry fruits. This is an incredibly impressive, structured, fine wine of note that imbues class, pedigree and sublime balance to the entire Cape Bordeaux Blend category. In my reconning, this is the very best Rabelais produced to date. Drink now and over the next 20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vilafonte Release a Truly Exceptional Series C Cape Bordeaux Blend from the Uniquely Cool and Classical 2021 Vintage…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

We all know that exceptional vintages have the ability to yield exceptional wines. Just think of 2000, 2005, 2009 and especially 2010 in Bordeaux, and perhaps 2004, 2009, 2015, and 2017 in the Cape. Without doubt, 2021 was another extraordinary vintage with ample winter rains followed by an unusually cold and wet spring and early summer. In an era of global warming and extreme weather events, getting a vintage like 2021 in the Cape must surely be a winemaker’s dream. So many I have talked to have described making wines that they feel they may never get the opportunity to make again due to the unusually cool, slow ripening conditions.

At Vilafonte in Paarl, flowering was largely even with good fruit-set, boding well for not only a healthy crop but also an ample crop. Early season growing temperatures were cool to moderate, warming gradually towards ripening, with a lack of February / March heatwaves a very noteworthy feature of the vintage. Berries were supple-skinned, bursting with flavour, showing a vibrant freshness and bold tannin structures. Harvest began on February 11th under mild weather conditions that continued for the remainder of the season. The resulting wines show a piercingly perfumed intensity, deep inky colours, sophistication and poise. The Series C is scheduled for a 1st November 2023 global release.

Vilfonte Series C 2021, WO Paarl, 14.5% Abv.

The Series C 2021 is another sumptuous Cape Bordeaux Blend made up of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 10% Malbec and 7% Cabernet Franc that was aged for 22 months in 81% new French oak 225 litre barriques, with the balance aged in used French oak barrels. Winemaker Chris de Vries was very excited by the berry flavour complexity at harvest time and when you pull the cork on this wine, the 2021 vintage displays an incredibly vivid, overt, beautifully lifted, piercing array of perfumed sweet violets, iris, cherry blossom, potpourri and incense with a delicate dusting of cocoa powder and vanilla pod spice. With the cool fruited aromatic ebb and flow, delicious notes of saline black currant, black cherry, crème de cassis, sandalwood, cigar wrapper, and cinnamon spice slowly develop, all pristinely pure and fabulously intense. Medium bodied, tightly wound and layered, the sleek supple mouthfeel truly typifies the very finest premium reds produced in this classically cooler vintage. Indeed, I cannot quite recall another vintage in the past two decades quite like it, with such sweet well-rounded tannins, fresh piercing acidities and magnificently weightless, crystalline tart red and black berry fruits on the velvety, seamless palate. The jury is out on whether this is the greatest Series C produced by Vilafonte to date simply because the astounding 2016 was such a uniquely brilliant creation. Needless to say, a wine of this beauty and precision will undoubtedly be counted as one of the finest reds of the vintage. Drink on release and enjoy over the next 20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Vilafonte wines are imported into the UK by John E Fells and are available retail from South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.

Three Exciting New Wines From Lokaia – Tasting the 2022 Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Few new winemaking projects reach the characterful quality heights and consumer cult status of Lokaia after only three vintages of production. But this is a very special collaboration between Craig McNaught of Stony Brook and Clayton Reabow of Môreson.

Certainly not a run of the mill style of winery, Lokaia is credited with producing some of the most exciting and individual wines in the Franschhoek Valley in recent years with their hallmarks being vibrant, fresh, early picked fruit fermented on their skins in amphorae in order to express their individual terroirs.

Lokaia produce exciting, innovative, nervy wines that are certainly very much ‘new wave’ in many respects but which also keep one eye firmly on a classical Old-World aesthetic.

Lokaia Pound of Flesh Semillon 2022, WO Franschhoek, 10.5% Abv.

The small production boutique Pound of Flesh Semillon made from Stony Brook vineyards in the Bo-Hoek area of Franschhoek has been one of the truly great new release white revelations of the past two to three years in South Africa. This cultivar is in its terroir home in the Franschhoek Valley and simply excels there, showing intense aromatics of white peaches, lime peel, lemon grass, freshly cut Granny Smith apples with complexing hints of white blossom, dried herbs, wet hay, lanolin and intricate mineral notes of crushed gravel. The palate is equally enticing, showing incredible fruit concentration as well as a piercing glassy acidity, all concertinaed into a very taut, tight, linear but explosive package. With the amphorae winemaking and early picked freshness and purity, the Pound of Flesh Semillon represents a sublime expression of nervy, crystalline white wine with an enviable vibrancy and precision. If you missed the earlier vintages, do not miss this inspiring 2022 release. Drink now and over the next 5 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lokaia Sandman Chardonnay 2022, WO Franschhoek, 12.5% Abv.

Another high-flying category in South Africa along with Semillon, Chardonnay also happens to be a cultivar that performs exceptionally well in the Franschhoek Valley and the grapes for this impressive 2022 Sandman Chardonnay are sourced from the vineyards of white wine focused Môreson winery where Lokaia co-owner Clayton Reabow is head winemaker. The previous vintages of this wine have been likened to drinking premium Premier Cru Chablis Chardonnay and this fabulous 2022 follows a similar stylistic aesthetic boasting a nutty, white citrus fruit laden aromatics with intricate nuances of dried herbs, wet chalk, waxy lemon peel, salted pistachios, melted honey and subtle salty oyster shell and granitic mineral spice layers over leesy savoury notes. On the palate, the acidity is fresh and pronounced, becoming another key foundation block of the harmoniously taut, classically structured, liquid mineral finish. Yet again, this is an incredibly striking expression of Chardonnay that will certainly delight the purists. Drink on release and over the next 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lokaia Call of the Void Cabernet Franc 2022, WO Franschhoek, 10% Abv.

Always electrically intense and bright, this is another benchmark expression of exceptional Cabernet Franc, with its pristine aromatics of purple flowers, violets, rock candy and sweet lily. In the modern world, this is an undoubtedly taut, tight expression of Cabernet Franc with the palate breadth and depth, expansive and profound, showing complex smoky cranberry and red cherry nuances. This incredibly mineral, ethereal expression is simple class, strutting its shoulders and plumping its chest while acknowledging the finer, fresher aspects of the wine. This is undoubtedly the finest expression of Lokaia Cabernet Franc to date and from first taste, and you know you are in for a profound taste adventure when you approach the 2022. Drink now and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Lokaia wines are imported into the UK by Museum Wines.

The End of the Cape Drought is Marked By the Release of An Exceptional Van Biljon Cinq 2018…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The 2018 vintage in the Western Cape was certainly marked by one of the worst droughts on record and presented some significant challenges for all vine growers and winemakers. With water resources at an all time low and strict rationing in effect, reduced water availability for irrigation led to reduced vine vigour and reduced canopy sizes.

Some unseasonable rains and low temperatures in October and November disrupted fruit set and further reduced the number and size of berries on grape clusters. For many wineries, yields ended up being around -25% lower than the fairly generous 2017 crop, however, quality was high overall with intense inky colours, piercing concentration and striking fruit richness across cultivars.

Van Biljon Cinq Cape Bordeaux Blend 2018, WO Stellenbsoch, 14.5% Abv.

2.3g/l RS | 5.60g/l TA | 3.59pH

Always small and always boutique, this singular Cape Bordeaux blend Cinq from Van Biljon has always been about top quality as well as expressing the premium terroir of the Polkadraai Hills in Stellenbosch. The 2018 is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 9% Malbec, all aged in French oak barrels for 18 months after fermentation. Following on from a very influential, high flying 2017 vintage, the challenge for winemaker Chris Keet and the Van Biljon team was always going to be about strict grape selection to allow the very best fruit to enter the production process. 2018 was a more challenging year but with most premium examples on the market already, the vintage has slowly but surely carved out its own niche among connoisseurs and consumers, with wines of generosity, intensity, acid structure, but also elegance and finesse that can be approached over the short to medium term. This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine is initially quite savoury, dark and broody on opening but within a short amount of time, starts to reveal lifted perfumed notes of earthy red flowers, violets, and pressed rose petals together with pure black currant, black plum and mulberry hints. There is that unmistakable earthy, peaty note of freshly tilled damp earth that is so typical of Stellenbosch Bordeaux blends, which lends a familiar, comforting charm. On the palate, the expression is one of elegance, sleek focus and freshness, with a soft seductive savoury mineral tannin vein, earthy red and black currant fruits, but also a silky finesse undoubtedly encouraged by the high Cabernet Franc component. This is a delightful expression that may well be more approachable now than either of the block buster 2015 or 2017 Cinq editions but is certainly a wine that will comfortably slumber and mature with benefit for another 10+ years in your cellar.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Van Biljon wines are imported into the UK by Woodwinters UK and retail for circa £48 per bottle from fine wine merchants.

Louis Jadot Releases Another Stellar Ladoix Blanc from the Warm 2020 Vintage in Burgundy…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Louis Jadot seems to be on a bit of a run of form when it comes to top quality white vintages. This Covid-hit 2020 is a charming vintage delivering full, fleshy, concentrated wines with plenty of intensity, depth and textural mouthfeel while retaining moderate alcohols and low pH levels. 2020 was a warm, dry year and efforts were of course made to pick fruit a little earlier than normal to retain freshness and energy in the wines. In the cellar, foudres and 500 litre barrels complement the classic Burgundian 228 litre barrels as changes are made to the wines’ elevage in an attempt to adapt to climate change.

Louis Jadot Domaine Gagey Ladoix Le Clou d’Orge Blanc 2020, Burgundy, 13% Abv.

The 2019 vintage was widely regarded as one of Jadot’s best white vintages on record, so 2020 was always going to be up against it. But this juicy Domaine Gagey Ladoix Le Clou d’Orge 2020 Blanc is a wonderfully expressive creation showing the ripeness and exoticism of the vintage. The aromatics are intricate and expressive, boasting notes of peaches, lemon pastille, citrus oil, salted toffee and honey drizzled on warm pastries fresh out the oven. The palate reveals a lovely opulent core of fleshy yellow citrus fruits that coat the mouth, with ripe flavours lingering with impressive persistence. A wine with a pleasing balance, flavour intensity and soft bright acids rather than zippy, nervy, chiselled acids of a cooler, leaner year. Certainly a real class act in terms of white Burgundy quality, and most importantly, with a rare accessible price point still. Enjoy now and over the next 3 to 5 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW

Wines are available exclusively to the UK trade through importer Hatch Mansfield and retails for circa £35 per bottle.

Another Flagship Block Buster Blend Released By De Toren – Tasting and Reviewing the Fusion V 2020…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

There may be a lot of attention drawn to the delicious super premium releases of De Toren Black Lion Shiraz, Book XVII Bordeaux Blend and the Patronus Malbec, but in reality, it’s the ever-consistent De Toren Fusion V and Edition Z cuvees that keep on delivering vintage after vintage and offering up some of the most sumptuous Cape Bordeaux Blends produced in South Africa.

But of course it has been the entire Polkadraai Hills ward situated on deep decomposed granite soils that has risen to fame over the past years, and as Bruwer Raats, De Toren’s neighbour elaborates, people laughed at him when he suggested that these ancient soils with their incredible minerality could produce the best wines in the country. Well, that was then, and this is now… and of course he has been proved correct. De Toren Fusion V can sometimes fly a little bit below the radar, so if you have not discovered this noble wine yet, the 2020 offers the perfect opportunity to do so.

De Toren Fusion V 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Once again, the Fusion V 2020 reveals itself as one of the leading Cape Bordeaux Blends in South Africa featuring 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. The aromatics are bold and spicy with a fairly classically array of perfumed violets, sweet cherry tobacco, cigar box, dried herbs, graphite and sweet cedar wood spice over plush earthy black currant and black plum fruit nuances. In its youth, there are some overt oak notes evident, but they whisper quality and precision all the way, melting away into a cornucopia of textured palate layers with crème de cassis, salty black liquorice, plum spice, and pithy black cherry on the finish. The tannins are supple but tight grained and the acids soft, fresh and harmonious, keeping the luscious black fruit concentration in check. Unashamedly modern and generous, this Stellenbosch beauty from the Polkadraai Hills will drink well on release and cellar beneficially for a decade or more.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren wines are available to the trade in the UK from The Wine Treasury and for retail from South African specialist merchants like Museum Wines at circa £50pb.

Ian Naude Breaks New Ground With His First Old Vine White Blend Since 2010 – Tasting His Exciting New Soutbos 2023 White West Coast Blend…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

One could argue that Ian Naude is a sucker for punishment. Though, he would probably blame Rosa Kruger or perhaps his friend and fellow winemaker Sakkie Mouton for many of his recent wine adventures, but every time he is introduced to a new Old Vine vineyard, you can practically hear the cogs turning, the bells ringing and the whistles tweeting in his head. He swore he was done with white blends after his last expression was bottled in 2010. But sometimes, when you inadvertently discover an incredibly exciting synergy or harmonious partnership like the one that exits between Old Vine Chenin Blanc and Colombard, all bets are off.

I travelled up the West Coast with Ian Naude in October 2022, the beginning of the 2023 vintage, and saw some of the incredibly exciting Old Vine Chenin Blanc and Colombard vineyards that inspired Ian on his new white blend journey. Even I wanted to buy some of these grapes and start making wine again!

Old Vine Chenin Blanc in Vredendal

Very old, gracefully gnarled and outstandingly beautiful, the vineyards of Vredendal and Koekenaap are finally receiving the adoration they have missed out on for the past 30 years. Ian’s new white blend is yet another celebration of this incredibly characterful, austere, coastal terroir.

Naude Family Wines Soutbos White Blend 2023, WO Western Cape, 12% Abv.

1.76g/l RS | 6.07g/l TA | 3.44pH

This stunning new white blend from Naude Family Wines represents the culmination of many years of work Ian Naude has spent constructing and perfecting intricate, complex and age worthy white blends. More latterly, Ian has built an iconic reputation for some of the most eye-catching Old Vine Chenin Blancs produced in South Africa before moving his attention to championing Old Vine Colombard vineyards up the West Coast. This new white draws on all Ian’s experience and expertise to assemble an incredibly fresh, tight knit, minerally driven white wine. A blend of 83% Chenin Blanc from a vineyard planted in 1988 and 17% Colombard from a vineyard planted in 1985, has seen Ian create his first new white blend since 2010 from these two noble West Coast Vredendal vineyards.

Crystalline and fresh in the glass, the aromatics show incredibly subtle notes of lemon peel zest, grapefruit, white peach, honeydew melon and Granny Smith apples with underlying hints of dried guava roll, sweet herbs and cream soda rock candy. Fresh, intense and mouth coating, this is an intriguing white blend that combines the vibrancy and exuberance of Old Vine Colombard with the more herbal, mineral and textural aspects of Chenin Blanc. Undoubtedly, the standout features remain the incredible balance, seamless texture and maritime kelpy salinity. Like all of Ian’s red and white wines, his attention to detail is simply extraordinary, marking this white blend as one of the most exciting and thought-provoking new releases on the South African white wine landscape since possibly the launch of Eben Sadie’s Old Vine Skerpioen. Drink and enjoy its freshness on release and revisit over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Naudé Wines are imported into the UK exclusively by specialist South African merchant Museum Wines.