There may be a lot of attention drawn to the delicious super premium releases of De Toren Black Lion Shiraz, Book XVII Bordeaux Blend and the Patronus Malbec, but in reality, it’s the ever-consistent De Toren Fusion V and Edition Z cuvees that keep on delivering vintage after vintage and offering up some of the most sumptuous Cape Bordeaux Blends produced in South Africa.
But of course it has been the entire Polkadraai Hills ward situated on deep decomposed granite soils that has risen to fame over the past years, and as Bruwer Raats, De Toren’s neighbour elaborates, people laughed at him when he suggested that these ancient soils with their incredible minerality could produce the best wines in the country. Well, that was then, and this is now… and of course he has been proved correct. De Toren Fusion V can sometimes fly a little bit below the radar, so if you have not discovered this noble wine yet, the 2020 offers the perfect opportunity to do so.
De Toren Fusion V 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
Once again, the Fusion V 2020 reveals itself as one of the leading Cape Bordeaux Blends in South Africa featuring 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. The aromatics are bold and spicy with a fairly classically array of perfumed violets, sweet cherry tobacco, cigar box, dried herbs, graphite and sweet cedar wood spice over plush earthy black currant and black plum fruit nuances. In its youth, there are some overt oak notes evident, but they whisper quality and precision all the way, melting away into a cornucopia of textured palate layers with crème de cassis, salty black liquorice, plum spice, and pithy black cherry on the finish. The tannins are supple but tight grained and the acids soft, fresh and harmonious, keeping the luscious black fruit concentration in check. Unashamedly modern and generous, this Stellenbosch beauty from the Polkadraai Hills will drink well on release and cellar beneficially for a decade or more.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The De Toren wines are available to the trade in the UK from The Wine Treasury and for retail from South African specialist merchants like Museum Wines at circa £50pb.