Revisiting Two Seductive 2020s from De Toren Private Cellar – Tasting their Book XVII Cape Bordeaux Blend and Patronus Malbec… 

With a bottle of 2021 Book XVII from De Toren winery waiting to be tasted and reviewed, I thought I’d revisit a couple of their 2020 releases to recalibrate my palate. The Book XVII Cape Bordeaux Blend was born from a pursuit of excellence blended with a passion for craftsmanship, isolating the very best that nature has to offer, commencing with the maiden 2010 vintage release. The name Book XVII was inspired by one of the first pieces of literature dedicated solely to wine and extreme viticulture methods written over two millennia ago by Roman philosopher, Pliny the Elder. 15 years later, the Book XVII blend has become an integral part of the De Toren icon wine range, with this unique super premium red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec born from a desire to craft a wine that could stand confidently amongst some of the greatest premium red wines in the world. The result of this devotion to precision is an incredibly limited production of a mere 6 barrels and an irresistible, lush red blend with a hedonistic depth and impressive purity and complexity. 

Book XVII is the result of 20 years’ exhaustive recording and analysis of countless vineyard variables in the Polkadraai Hills, from soil composition and weather conditions to oceanographic influences. With modern viticulture methods, bold experimental winemaking, and masterful use of various Bordeaux barriques, Book XVII now ranks among the top Cape Bordeaux Blend expressions produced in the Cape winelands. Unashamedly luxurious, ripe and hedonistic in style, this wine has never looked to mimic anything else produced in the Cape, and as a result, has comfortably cultivated a loyal consumer following both at home and internationally. 

De Toren Book XVII 2020 Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 15.15% Abv.

2.7g/l RS | 5.4g/l TA | 3.59pH

It is always fascinating cracking another vintage of one of De Toren’s icon wines as I have seen, in person, the attention to detail that is performed both in the vineyards and in the winery to capture the purest essence of quality from their exceptional Polkadraai Hills vineyards in Stellenbosch. The 2020 release is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, and 19% Cabernet Franc that was aged for 22 months in 100% new 225 litre French oak barrels. This impressive 2020 Bordeaux Blend is another opulent and generously constructed red with alluring aromatics of dusty crushed granite, freshly shaved cedar wood spice, wet tobacco leaves over hints of dried violets, black currant herbal tea, black cherry and a spicy capsicum note. Surprisingly mineral and restrained on the nose, the palate is a little more upfront and fleshier but with all components of fruit, acid and tannin so meticulously integrated so as to present a wonderfully synergistic red blend with a seamless transition between the sweet inky black berry fruits, the spicy cedar and tobacco complexity, and a fine-grained mineral-laden dry tannin finish. Incredibly youthful still and deserving of further time in the cellar, this is nevertheless a very impressive premium red wine honed for the most sophisticated of global connoisseurs. Drink now after a decant and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW) 

Two of De Toren’s three ultra-premium wines along with their Black Lion Syrah.

De Toren Patronus Malbec 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Created to try and craft one of the most exceptional expressions of this grape cultivar in the Cape winelands, this bold hedonistic ultra-premium red is made from decades-old Malbec vines in the Polkadraai Hills, with individual bunches hand-picked and then individual berries selected. Three distinct vessels were used for whole berry fermentation, each chosen to highlight the opulence, purity and typicity of premium Malbec. Predominantly matured in new French oak barrels, the results on the 2020 are suitably impressive. The aromatics resonate with plush, ripe, intense notes of blue berry and black berry fruits, sappy mulberries, and black plum with delicate undertones of vanilla pod spice, complex cedar oak and exotic Christmas spices. The palate shows the accessible opulence of the 2020 vintage, broad, deep, and powerful under a creamy, concentrated fleshy textured veil of velvety tannins and soft, integrated acids. Opulent and hedonistic in every sense of the word, this is an incredibly impressive expression of Malbec, the grape that is currently having a massive love affair with the Cape’s terroir. Drink now on release or cellar for 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Polkadraai Hills On the Rise – Another Impressive De Toren Edition Z Release from the 2019 Vintage…

Many producers said that rain and cooler conditions in some South African regions at the end of February and early March 2019 might have hampered some later ripening red grape varieties, but for earlier ripening Merlot based wines, quality was excellent and the finished bottled wines at De Toren are really starting to shine. The cool daytime conditions (and especially nights) of December and January meant that the earlier varieties ripened with lovely vital acidities and great fruit freshness, mostly at lower alcohol levels. But as always, the precision viticulture at De Toren delivered excellent quality fruit with very consistent results.

De Toren Edition Z 2019, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

This big bold De Toren Edition Z is another opulent, fleshy expression very much in the style of an expressive, generous Right Bank Merlot based blend. The aromatics are rich and powerful, packed full of sweet perfumed violets, stewed black plums, warm blueberry pie, salty cassis and melted black liquorice thoughtfully complimented by hints of sweet cedary oak and a vanilla pod dusting. The medium to full-bodied wine coats the palate with an intensity and concentration of dark berry fruits, dried thyme, black cherry confit, and subtle tarry, black currant notes that linger on the creamy, softly tannic persistent finish. This is a beautifully accomplished Cape Bordeaux red blend that offers seductive drinking now and the power and poise to age beneficially for at least 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren Wines are imported into the UK by The Wine Treasury and Edition Z retails for circa £42pb.

De Toren Wines Releases Their Patronus Malbec 2021 That Rivals Many of the World’s Greatest Malbec Reds…

Born from a desire to craft one of the finest ultra-premium Malbec wines in the world, comes the distinct De Toren Patronus made from several decade old Malbec vineyards in the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch. A super premium expression priced at R3,666 per bottle cellar door (£160), this wine unashamedly puts its trust in precision viticulture to challenge, head on, some of the most famous benchmark premium Malbec’s produced primarily by wineries in Mendoza, Argentina.

Some may think that South Africa has no right to muscle in on yet another international variety and produce expressions that annoyingly, clearly rival some of the world’s other great examples. But South Africa has a knack of doing this… with Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand & Loire), Chenin Blanc (Loire Valley), Syrah (Rhone), Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux and Napa Valley), Cabernet Franc (Loire Valley), and now Malbec (Mendoza and Cahors). All these examples go a long way to illustrate how exceptional and versatile the multiple vineyard terroirs in the Cape truly are. After tasting the Patronus 2021, you may now also have to add Malbec to your long South African shopping list!

De Toren Patronus Malbec 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This 2021 Malbec from De Toren is one of the few superstar expressions of premium Malbec produced in South Africa where you get to witness the true majesty and opulence of this cultivar delivered with full impact concentration and kaleidoscopic aromatics. Beautifully seductive in its youth, the nose boasts a broad array of floral magic… pressed violets and rose petal perfume accompanied by smoky layers of cigar ash, cocoa powder, crushed granite minerality, and spicy cedar oak nuances all supported by plush, sumptuous raspberry, sappy black currant and sweet cherry tobacco hints. The medium-bodied palate is soft, supple and powdery with sweet fine-grained creamy tannins that melt into layer upon layer of sweet mulberry, black berry compote and pomegranate fruits, all wonderfully framed and shaped by refreshing, lively energetic acids. This is an exceptionally well balance expression of Malbec that follows a path of elegance and precision and delivers a beautifully long, vibrant, expressive finish. Drink this beauty on release after an hours decant and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren wines are imported into the UK by The Wine Treasury and are available from specialist merchants like Museum Wines.

Another Flagship Block Buster Blend Released By De Toren – Tasting and Reviewing the Fusion V 2020…

There may be a lot of attention drawn to the delicious super premium releases of De Toren Black Lion Shiraz, Book XVII Bordeaux Blend and the Patronus Malbec, but in reality, it’s the ever-consistent De Toren Fusion V and Edition Z cuvees that keep on delivering vintage after vintage and offering up some of the most sumptuous Cape Bordeaux Blends produced in South Africa.

But of course it has been the entire Polkadraai Hills ward situated on deep decomposed granite soils that has risen to fame over the past years, and as Bruwer Raats, De Toren’s neighbour elaborates, people laughed at him when he suggested that these ancient soils with their incredible minerality could produce the best wines in the country. Well, that was then, and this is now… and of course he has been proved correct. De Toren Fusion V can sometimes fly a little bit below the radar, so if you have not discovered this noble wine yet, the 2020 offers the perfect opportunity to do so.

De Toren Fusion V 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Once again, the Fusion V 2020 reveals itself as one of the leading Cape Bordeaux Blends in South Africa featuring 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. The aromatics are bold and spicy with a fairly classically array of perfumed violets, sweet cherry tobacco, cigar box, dried herbs, graphite and sweet cedar wood spice over plush earthy black currant and black plum fruit nuances. In its youth, there are some overt oak notes evident, but they whisper quality and precision all the way, melting away into a cornucopia of textured palate layers with crème de cassis, salty black liquorice, plum spice, and pithy black cherry on the finish. The tannins are supple but tight grained and the acids soft, fresh and harmonious, keeping the luscious black fruit concentration in check. Unashamedly modern and generous, this Stellenbosch beauty from the Polkadraai Hills will drink well on release and cellar beneficially for a decade or more.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren wines are available to the trade in the UK from The Wine Treasury and for retail from South African specialist merchants like Museum Wines at circa £50pb.

Tasting De Toren Black Lion Shiraz 2020 – A Testament to Modern Precision Viticulture…

One of the most luxurious 100% Shiraz produced in South Africa, the Black Lion is a finely crafted wine cultivated from specially selected vines that are nurtured by special ‘hand manicuring’ and individual attention to produce grapes for a truly modern premium international wine, positioned to stand proudly amongst its global peers. A mere 1000 – 1300 individually numbered bottles are produced annually with the maiden vintage being the 2012, when only 608 bottles were produced.

I remember visiting the De Toren Stellenbosch winery in the Polkadraai Hills when the maiden Book XVII Bordeaux blend 2010 had just been released and the maiden 2012 Black Lion Shiraz was still ageing in barrel, made up of components of pure Shiraz grown on three different vineyard sites including the Swartland and the Helderberg, but importantly, made using the same extreme precision viticulture as the Book XVII Series, albeit with less barrel rotation and slightly different barrel cooperage. The 2020 Black Lion edition is made from fruit from one site in the Swartland and one site in Stellenbosch.

With the new 2020 release hitting the market, it was time to put this extraordinary Shiraz through its paces. Using 200% new oak ageing, there is always going to be a certain overt opulence to the wine, a hedonistic indulgence, but with stylistic perfection always front and foremost in the cellar master Charles Williams’ mind, the end product is always going to be eye-catching. More Napa Valley than Rhone Valley undoubtedly, but certainly a unique expression of premium luxury South African Shiraz.

De Toren Private Cellar Black Lion Shiraz 2020, WO Coastal Region, 15.5% Abv.

Three things strike you when you nose and taste this premium wine for the first time… firstly that it’s incredibly youthful as you’d expect from a 2020 vintage, secondly, the integration of the new oak on such a young wine is simply exceptional, and lastly, the all round creamy, dense intensity, harmony and balance of fruit and structure points to something very serious in the bottle. Without any obfuscation of oak, the aromatics are laid out regally like crown jewels on display, showing a deliciously rich black berry, blue berry and mulberry complexity, with hints of grilled herbs, sweet roasted peppercorns, sweet tobacco leaf and seductive notes of cured bresaola. Texturally, this wine is faultless, revealing a suave, opulent, richly layered palate that leaves little to the imagination. Sleek, fine grained, broad in the mouth, the palate shows black cherry and liquorice, black currant and black stewed plums with sweet savoury herbs, vanilla pod spice and a seductively long finish. Perhaps a little modern in style for hemp shirt wearing Syrah traditionalists, but for everyone else, this iconic red is the product of modern precision viticulture at its very best. A truly extraordinary wine. Drink from 2024 to 2038+. (Only 1,215 bottles produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren wines are imported into the UK by The Wine Treasury and retails for circa £250 per bottle.

De Toren Continue to Make Some of South Africa’s Best Cape Bordeaux Blends – Tasting the De Toren Z 2018…

As I penned the finishing touches to my tasting notes on the De Toren Z 2018, an email from the estate fortuitously popped into my inbox announcing that the highly rated De Toren Z 2017 vintage was about to run out! But fear not! The 2017 might have been the highest rated Z vintage to date, but the 2018 is a more than worthy follow up expression.

The 2018 vintage was much smaller than average. Extreme drought, which some considered the worst in a hundred years, made the growing season particularly difficult. A cold winter saw bouts of damaging frost which reduced yields early in the season. When the summer did come bringing the usual heat, it also brought the drought and water shortages. Although, one advantage of the dry weather was that it helped prevent the spread of vineyard diseases. However, despite the tough conditions and hugely reduced harvest, some very good wines like the De Toren Z were made.

De Toren Z 2018, WO Stellenbosch, 14.72% Abv.

2.5 g/l RS | 5.1 g/l TA | 3.55 pH

A blend of Merlot: 54%, Cabernet Franc: 17%, Cabernet Sauvignon: 12%, Malbec: 12% and Petit Verdot: 5%. Always an expressive and more opulent blend, this De Toren Z 2018 combines the rich, fleshy, exotic plummy characters of Merlot with the more structured, black fruited nuances of prime Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine displays lofty aromatics of raisined black cherries, wet tobacco, damson plums and dusty graphite with a sweet sandalwood kiss. The palate is rich and generous with a well honed balance, a full and broad mouthfeel and seductive notes of mocha-laced blueberry, graphite and vanilla pod spice. This characteristically dark horse will undoubtedly challenge the established thinking that Cabernet Sauvignon must lead. The Merlot driven De Toren Z blend is certainly one of the great revelations of the past decade of South African premium red winemaking delivering pure hedonistic palate pleasure with a right bank Bordeaux philosophy. Drink from release and over the next 8-10+ years. (RRP In UK circa £39pb.)

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The De Toren Z Cape Bordeaux Blend Becoming a Real Force to be Reckoned With – Tasting and Assessing the Iconic New Z 2017 Release…

The focus of the De Toren estate has always been centred around the iconic Fusion V Cape Bordeaux blend made in a Left Bank leaning expression with a dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon. But the De Toren Z has slowly but surely started to catch the attention of wine critics and connoisseurs around the world with on-trade buyers and sommeliers taking a particular fancy to this blend.

While the debate continues as to whether this Merlot based Right Bank blend was born out of the quality Fusion V off-cuts or whether it was individually designed around specific varieties and terroirs on the Polkadraai estate, one thing is certain – the De Toren Z Cape Bordeaux blend is a premium wine to be reckoned with and taken seriously as it enters a small select group of top red blends coming out of South Africa.

With the 2016 Z currently selling great guns in South Africa and around the world, I thought I’d take a sneak peek at the highly anticipated 2017 that looks set to take the world by storm.

De Toren Estate Z 2017, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This wine personifies the De Toren journey of initially making one premium wine that ultimately heralded two iconic wines due to the estate’s attention to detail, terroir and focus on quality. This Merlot based blend is another absolute blinder revealing a rich, intense, brûléed aromatic array of saline cassis, nori seaweed, pithy black cherry, savoury black plum, roasted coffee beans and hints of open fire grilled winter chestnuts. The palate is super sleek and beautifully silky and suave bolstered by the most opulent, plump, hedonistic black fruit concentration, brûléed wood spice nuances and a long, mouth coating, vibrant finish. This wine speaks of the vintage with its weightless concentration and seamless balance and will appeal to Right Bank Bordeaux lovers who especially enjoy the iconic vintages. This wine is certainly right up there with the sensational 2015 De Toren Z and must surely rate as one of the best vintages of Z produced from the estate to date. Drink from 2022 to 2036+

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Watch out for the launch of this 2017 beauty in SA around the end of 1st Quarter 2021.

Another Valiant Effort From De Toren – Tasting the Fusion V 2016 Bordeaux Blend…

We all know that 2016 in the Cape was the second consecutive warm, dry, challenging vintage for grape growing. Nevertheless, top producers like Meerlust, Kanonkop, Raats Family, Vilafonte and De Toren succeeded in producing seductive Cabernet Sauvignon led Bordeaux blend reds.

We are fortunate enough to still be drinking many top 2015s here in the UK market while the 2017s are already starting to seduce local drinkers in the home market. But 2016 should certainly not be written off as quality focused producers stood up to the challenge of the vintage and delivered the goods in many circumstances, producing wines for slightly earlier drinking.

De Toren 2016 Fusion V Bordeaux Blend, Stellenbosch, 14.5 Abv.

While the 2016 Stellenbosch reds don’t quite have the same fruit purity and aromatic precision as the 2015s or 2017s, many of the top examples like this De Toren Fusion V 2016 make for very attractive wines with wonderful opulence and plushness. A 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot blend matured in French and American oak, 50% new. The nose is full of black chai tea complexity, lead pencil, graphite, sweet cedar, black currant, desiccated black cherry and notes of savoury hoisin plum sauce. The palate is supple and fleshy with ample chalky grippy textured tannins, raisined black plum, sweet fig and a subtle earthy Christmas pudding and wintery dried prune note on the finish. An all round delicious Bordeaux blend exuding freshness, palate vigour and vinous excitement. Drink over the next 6 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

De Toren Z Blend 2016 ~ and the winner is…

In case you read my below write up of the De Toren Z blending session at 67 Pall Mall recently thinking it was a fun but slightly pointless affair… think again. 

The results are in, announced today and the vote of the people is final. Viva De Toren democracy….


Here is the official announcement released today:

Dear Greg

After months of meticulous crafting, duteous tweaking to the potential blends and the valued input from the tastings, the concluding results of the De Toren Z 2016 Blend Tastings are in…

As an honorary guest of De Toren at the recent De Toren Z 2016 Blend Tasting, we want to use this opportunity to personally inform you of the final results. 

We are proud to announce the outcome of the 2016 vintage of De Toren Z, for the very first time. The winner, i.e. the blend for the De Toren Z 2016 vintage is, blend number 7!

This blend scored exceptionally well in all three rounds of the Blend Tastings and stood out from the overall blend line-up with a stellar 8 more points and the least controversial comments or feedback.

Please see below the varietal breakdown of the De Toren Z 2016:

· Merlot 54%

· Cabernet Sauvignon 12%

· Malbec 12%

· Cabernet Franc 16%

· Petit Verdot 6%

Once again, we would like to thank you for being part of this integral process, in helping us define our De Toren Z blend for the 2016 vintage.

Your input and time are valued a great deal. We look forward to hearing your thoughts on the 2016 vintage, after some further ageing, when released in 2018. 

Kind Regards,
The De Toren Team

Read my write up of the blending tasting here:

Making and Marketing a Fine Wine ~ Attending the Inspirational De Toren Z Blending Session at 67 Pall Mall…

Making and Marketing a Fine Wine ~ Attending the Inspirational De Toren Z Blending Session at 67 Pall Mall…

Marketing and selling fine wine successfully nowadays is all about connecting with your customers in a unique and dynamic way. Whether your customers are wine buyers, agents or end consumers, producers need to be able to think outside the box and educate as well as inspire. 


Yesterday’s De Toren Z 2016 blending session certainly ticked all these boxes and was both highly enjoyable, inspiring and educational all at once. With 10 to 12 buyers, customers, agents and sommeliers in attendance, we tasted and selected our favourite blind Z blends from nine possible 2016 variations. 


Below are my tasting notes for these blind wines for which no further blend information was furnished until after we had all delivered our top three wine choices as well as our least favourite. 


Z Blend 1 ~

Dense dark opulent nose of plum confit, mocha and milk chocolate. Subtle notes of red liquorice, crushed leaves, and hedgerow spice. Palate is soft, plump, fleshy with soft acids, and creamy spicy black fruit. Finish maybe lacks a little cut and tension. 89+/100

Z Blend 2 ~

Rich creamy nose of bruleed black fruit, caramelised cassis and black cherry. Hints of blueberry pie, condensed milk, and Creme brûlée. Shows a lifted cedar oak spice note, lead pencils and suave, sleek tannins. Fine balance, crunchy acids and very fine grained tannin finish. 93+/100

Z Blend 3 ~

(A blind ringer, actually being last years bottled 2015 Z Blend)

More exotic nose with raisined cassis, liquorice, touch of molasses and creamy raspberry crumble. Less overt fragrance and perfume. Palate is fleshy, full bodied but slightly less complex, a little soft and broad with perhaps insufficient definition and tension at the moment. But a lovely blend nonetheless. 92+/100


Z Blend 4 ~

Rich exotic nose of kirsch liquor, cherry confit, liquorice and blueberry pie. Hints of creamy molasses, sweet plum and freshly chiselled granite. Palate is fleshy, creamy, opulent, with dry grippy granitic mineral tannins, in a powerful, structured four square style. 91+/100

Z Blend 5 ~

Dense, dark creamy black fruits, Molasses, and caramelised plum. Develops classical notes of gravel, spice and chalk. Good freshness and grip, but the components are slightly disparate at the moment. Nice tension on the finish. Shows a lot of potential. 92+/100


Z Blend 6 ~

Dusty creamy bruleed oak, black plum, dense core, cherry pith, and a spicy lift. Violets, tobacco spice and sweet plum. Nice harmony, balance, and breadth. Shows good fine wine potential. 93/100

Z Blend 7 ~
Rich creamy opulent nose showing plenty of blueberry, cassis and aniseed root, liquorice stick and leafy cherry spice. Pretty dusty mocha powdered lift. Palate entry is tart, crunchy, vibrant and fresh with sour plum, cassis, graphite, gravelly tannin grip and a steely textural precision with a hint of cedary oak spice complexity on the finish. Very smart, very fine, great pedigree. 94/100


Z Blend 8 ~

Creamy dense, spicy cherry, black currant, and damson plum. Hints of raisined plum and blueberry. Palate is soft, creamy, dense and crunchy, with powder mineral grip, light weight supple elegance, and a very elegant texture. Suave, harmonious wine with good mid palate tension and freshness. 93+/100

Z Blend 9 ~

Overt nose of black plum, black cherry, spicy cedar as vanilla pod spice. Palate is very fleshy, sweet fruited, opulent and plush, showing good minerality. Finish is a touch shorter than some of the other Cuvees and does not quite fan its tail. A little more mid-palate tension and this could have been excellent. 89/100


My Blend Results:

After this challenging exercise, I settled on a top three list of Wine 7, Wine 8 and Wine 2, with my “least favourite” being Wine 9. Though I should add that all the blends were very fine and impressive, with some just a little more balanced, precise and complete in my mind. For such young wines I look for that extra intensity, tension and wound spring energy. Getting the right fruit, acid and tannin balance among the component blends can certainly deliver this. 


Results: Z Blending 2016

Emil Den Dulk’s selection:

7, 5, 6 and least 1

Sommelier Caroline from 67 Pall Mall: 
2, 5, 3 and least 7

Pretoria Tasting Session Selection: 

6, 3, 9 and least 1

Average Result Selection:

7, 3, 9 and least a tie 6,5,2

We were then treated to a fantastic lunch where we were able to discuss the blends while drinking an impressive Fusion V 2008 – 93+/100, Z Blend 2008 – 92/100 and Z Blend 2012 – 93/100. 


While the above tasting event may all seen a little bit academic if you weren’t actually there to taste the different wines’ subtlety and nuances, it nevertheless stands as a wonderful marketing exercise that gives a fascinating insight into the blending of a complex fine wine.