Klein Constantia, established in 1685, is renowned as one of the world’s most beautiful wine estates, nestled on the upper foothills of the Constantiaberg with views across False Bay. Originally part of Constantia, the 146-hectare estate, it boasts decomposed granite soils and cool ocean breezes, ideal for producing premium South African wines, including the celebrated natural sweet wine, Vin de Constance. Historically favoured by notable figures such as Napoleon, Baudelaire, European royalty, and global presidents, Vin de Constance continues to captivate discerning palates worldwide with its unwavering commitment to quality.
The 2022 vintage stood out for its intensity and precision, shaped by a late start and a condensed harvest window. Warm, dry conditions dominated the season, with minimal rainfall and increased sun exposure contributing to excellent ripening. The growing season brought some pressure due to wind and heat, but balanced canopy growth and careful vineyard management delivered fruit of exceptional quality. Temperatures remained steady throughout harvest, avoiding the intense heat spikes often seen in late summer in the Cape.
Tasting with head winemaker Matt Day.
I recently joined head winemaker and cellar master Matt Day at Klein Constantia to taste not only the phenomenal new release 2022 Vin de Constance, but also to run through a number of impressive back vintages.
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2014, WO Constantia
Deliciously fresh and vibrant, the wine saw a two-week maceration on skins before 36 months in barrel. The aromatics are packed with peaches, apricot, dried orchard fruits, freshly baked fruit pastries, and marmalade jam nuances. The palate is delightfully fresh and zippy, beautifully balancing sweetness and a tangy acid freshness. Lovey focus showing a delicate toffee apple sweetness and a seductive, salty, tarte tatin finish. A wine of beauty that is maturing exceptionally well. Drink now to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Klein Constantia fermentation cellar.
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2017, WO Constantia
Cool and elegant with the aromatics displaying a pithy, citrusy freshness with hints of toffee apples, dried apricots, and peach puree notes. The palate is full and glycerol, dense, enticingly sweet and peachy with a creamy, opulent finish. Great weight and sweetness but very well balanced. Drink now to 2045+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2021, WO Constantia
An incredibly accomplished Vin de Constance, the 2021 is impressively taut, bright, and nervy, showing pithy citrus and a crunchy white peach freshness. There is incredible tension and an acid frame of note with underlying hints of passionfruit, peach, guava, and marmalade depth. An astounding density and freshness with balance, focus and length. Power packed but oh so elegant. A true classic. Drink now to 2060+.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2022, WO Constantia, 13.5% Abv.
Coming from a warmer shorter season, the final wine was blended from 18 batches (normally around 25). The 2022 Vin de Constance shows aromatics of freshly melted honey, barley sugar, boiled sweets, passionfruit confit, quince, a gentle sapidity and apple puree nuances with hints of savoury freshly baked apple strudel notes on the nose. The palate is incredibly dense, compact, and tight knit, quite weighty and full bodied in texture, but also incredibly creamy and picante, sweet and plush after an incredible 36 months in 4,200 litre wooden foudre, boasting notes of dried mango, nectarine, lychee, and white peach. This is an impactful Vin de Constance that displays both power and intensity alongside a regal elegance and freshness that bestows the wine with an incredible harmony and balance. Drink on release and over the next 40+ years.
The Van Biljon boutique winery owned by Anton and Julia Van Biljon lies on a small farm situated in the Polkadraai Hills ward of the Stellenbosch region, neighbouring other highly esteemed producers such as Reyneke Wines, Raats Family Wines and De Toren Private Cellar. The region is well known for its deep, fertile and well drained decomposed granite soils and the moderating cool sea breezes that blow in off False Bay, lying directly to the South of the winery. Meticulous viticultural practices yield pristine grapes with intense colour, concentrated fruit flavours and firm structured tannins.
The wines have been produced by Bordeaux Blend specialist winemaker Chris Keet since 2011 and during my recent trip to the Cape, I popped in to taste and was treated to a rare bottle of the maiden vintage alongside the current release 2019. Also, knowing my intense fascination with the atypical, cool, 2021 vintage conditions, I managed to persuade Anton van Biljon to dig a bottle out of storage to let me get a sneak peek at what could be Chris’s most accomplished Van Biljon Cinq cuvee to date. With plenty of chatter on the wines of Stellenbosch and specifically the stand apart premium styling of Polkadraai Hills wines in particular, I perhaps made a sturdy case for Van Biljon to include this designation on their front or back label in future, as all five components of fruit are only sourced strictly from the Polkadraai Hills Ward.
With Chris Keet at the winery in July 2025.
As one of the few “single wine wineries” in the Cape, Van Biljon’s Cinq cuvee is definitely a wine classical Bordeaux lovers should seek out. Aside from its affordable pricing under £50 per bottle, the wine must also have one of the most consistent scoring track records in Stellenbosch, with the Cinq blend usually cracking the magical 95 point mark time and time again.
Van Biljon Cinq 2011 Cape Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
The maiden 2011 Cinq is a blend of majority Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with supporting components of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The wine is incredibly pure and spicy with a mineral integrity, showing layers of dried herbs, thyme, mint leaf, and wet stone minerality over black berries, black cherry and black plum notes. The palate is unbelievably energetic and fresh, vibrant and supremely classy, ageing incredibly well from a vintage that was taut, linear and possibly slightly understated on release. Still showing impressive palate depth, power and stony mineral graphite tannins that are maturing and resolving beautifully, coming together to make a very impressive blend. Drink now to 2030+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Van Biljon Cinq 2019 Cape Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
The 2019 is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Malbec. 2019 was a more mixed vintage, cooler than 2018 but quite a muscular vintage making picking dates and extraction timings very important. There is incredible power and broody depth with aromatics full of black berry fruits, damson plums, black currant, white pepper and delicate bay leaf and sage herbal spice notes. The palate is fabulously polished, piercing and structured with a stony tannin frame, classical styling, and a finish kissed with mint leaf and chocolate peppermint crisp nuances. Really majestically power packed, compact and distinguished! Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The micro Van Biljon Cinq production in the cellar.
Van Biljon Cinq 2021 Cape Bordeaux Blend, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
On the eve of the Van Biljon Cinq 2020 release, I sat down with winemaker Chris Keet and persuaded him to allow me to also taste a very early pre-release sample of the 2021 Cinq blend. In keeping with this cooler, slower ripening year, the aromatics show a delicately fragrant perfume of violets and rose petals, sweet cedar, black cherry, saline creme de cassis and a pronounced undertone of graphite and granitic minerality. The oaking is already very well integrated allowing the cool, taut, linear black berry fruits to shine through on the palate. Delicately stony, this 2021 shows all the classical restraint and structure you’d expect from this cooler, slower ripening vintage, with a sinewy mid-palate tension and a tightly wound weightless concentration that seems certain to flesh out further ahead of its official release in perhaps 2026 or 2027. The Cinq 2021 is a wonderful representation of this unique Polkadraai Hills Stellenbosch vintage and definitely one to watch out for in future. I look forward to tasting this wine again on its official release.
(Wine Safari Score: 94-96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Van Biljon wines are imported into the UK by Woodwinters. Contact: andrew@woodwinters.com
While noise around the Swartland region and its many cult wines seems to be subsiding somewhat, as long as rock star producers like Eben Sadie, Adi Badenhorst, David & Nadia and Chris and Andrea Mullineux keep releasing high scoring whites and reds, wine critics will remain fixated on this versatile region.
But not everyone making iconic wines in the Swartland attempts to steal the wine headlines at every opportunity. One such talent is Jasper Wickens, who along with his wife Franziskia, is creating some of the most profound wines from fruit grown on their Waterval farm in the Paardeberg, next door to both Eben and Adi. With Jasper’s new 2023 vintages landing on my doorstep today, I thought I’d set the scene for my upcoming 2023 vintage reviews of Tiernes and Wolwekop with a compilations of some unreleased back vintage notes.
Jasper in one of his Chenin Blanc Vineyards at Waterval farm.
JC Wickens Swerwer Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.
After the long, cool harvest of 2021, 2022 reverted back to more “normal” conditions with several heatwaves taking place during the early season in the Swartland forcing some wineries to harvest grapes perhaps a little sooner than they normally would have in order to preserve acidity. The Chenin Blanc grapes in this 2022 are all grown on deep decomposed Granite soils and offer up classical Swartland notes of wet hay, wet stone minerality, dried baking herbs, white peaches, orange blossom and pithy white citrus and pear fruit characteristics. With its impressively low, cool alcohol level of only 12.5%, the palate displays a light touch balance and elegance with cool, savoury peach notes, quince, and tangy apple puree. The acids are soft, well integrated, but bright and pithy and the finish stony and mineral with a certain degree of phenolic grip. A delicious wine with purity and precision that is ready to drink on release and over the next 6 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
JC Wickens Swerwer Shiraz 2022, WO Swartland, 14% Abv.
A seductively dark purple black plum colour in the glass, this attractive Syrah is made from Paardeberg grapes from the Wickens Waterval Farm grown on 100% decomposed Granite soils. 100% whole-bunch fermented, the aromatics on the 2022 are perfumed and lifted showing red and black berries, violets, lavender, hints of cranberry and pomegranate with delicately complexing notes of fynbos, crushed gravel and kalamata olives. In the mouth the wine is medium bodied but beautifully sleek, soft, and harmonious with silky fine grained chalky tannins, mouthwatering tangy acids and a long, succulent berry fruited finish. So enjoyable to drink in its youth with its fabulous generosity of fruit, vibrancy, and accessible structure. Drink on release to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tiernes Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc planted in 1982.
JC Wickens Tiernes Single Vineyard Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.
The Tiernes vineyard planted in 1982 is very special indeed, overlooking the whole Waterval Farm of Francisca and Jasper Wickens from the top of the hill. With the vines grown on some of the deepest decomposed granite soils on the farm, the old vine Chenin Blanc grapes yield an incredibly complex and intense wine with aromatics packed with crushed rocks minerality, rain on granite boulders, lemon grass, grated lemon and lime peel, and delicate quince jelly notes. The palate is wonderfully intense and crystalline with real verve and vigour, a fruit purity of note with a chiselled mouthfeel of tart limes, fresh fennel, white peach, and yellow grapefruit pith. The concentration is slightly lighter and more ethereal than the 2021 but the purity and refinement are unmatched. The single vineyard Tiernes is undoubtedly one of the most profound Chenin Blanc expressions produced in the Swartland and a wine every fine wine collector should follow and buy. Drink on release and over the next 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
JC Wickens Wolwekop Single Vineyard Old Vine Semillon 2021, WO Swartland, 12.5% Abv.
The back label of the Wolwekop simply states… “a pure expression of Semillon, Granite and Nature.” Well, if you didn’t have time to read a full tasting note, this would succinctly sum up the exceptional quality of this delicious terroir driven Old Vine Semillon sourced from a majestic Swartland vineyard planted in 1963. The long, cool, atypical 2021 vintage needs no introduction, already being well regarded and widely lauded as one of the best vintages in the Cape in the past decade. From a Zalto Universal glass the aromatics are notably lean, mineral and overtly stony, revealing a relatively shy bouquet, but once transferred to a bigger Burgundy bowl glass, the wine explodes into life offering up fragrant notes of savoury waxy lemon peel, lanolin, fennel root, lemon herbal tea and subtle beeswax notes before a pronounced wave of crushed gravel and dusty granitic minerality follow. The palate is equally complex and beguiling, featuring a bold spicy mineral laden glycerol palate with wet stone minerality, bergamot, green melon, yellow apples, and tart yellow quince that’s beautifully framed by bright, searing crystalline acids before a dried herb laden finish with a delicately nutty, almond skin nuance. Packed with energy, focus and drive, this must surely be a wine Jasper is very proud of. Drink now on releases and over the next 10 to 12+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
JC Wickens Wolwekop Single Vineyard Old Vine Semillon 2022, WO Swartland, 13% Abv.
After the high scoring 97/100 point benchmark Wolwekop 2021, Jasper Wickens has pulled a little more magic out the bag to produce yet another enticing Semillon offering in 2022. A golden yellow colour, the wine displays a complex aromatics of pithy lemon citrus, leesy lemon biscuits, buttered white toast, brewed green tea, lemon grass, honey and delicate green herb nuances. Full and fleshy in the mouth, there is a clear harmony and balance punctuated by a stony granitic minerality supported by well-integrated acids and a pithy, peach stone fruit strand with peppery, sappy, lanolin hints. Another Old Vine masterclass from Jasper. Drink now to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Jasper Wickens Swerwer wines are imported into the UK by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.
The Holden Manz Wine Estate is situated within an eclectic array of Franschhoek wine farms at the top of the Franschhoek Valley where the Holden Manz wine farm is dominated by the spectacular surrounding mountains which stand guard over some of the most scenic vineyards in the Cape. The wine farm lies between Franschhoek and the Stony Brook rivers, where this 22-hectare winery benefits from wonderfully fertile, dark loam soils and state-of-the-art winemaking.
The Franschhoek Valley is one of the main destinations in the world for fine wine tourists, with farms dotted around the beautiful and quaint Francophile village of Franschhoek. There are no fewer than forty stately wine farms that form an important part of the Cape’s elaborate wine landscape. Here, English owner Gerard Holden has carved out his own little piece of paradise making wines that have earned the brand a global fine wine following. Uniquely plush, opulent and ever so hedonistic in style, the Holden Manz Estate wines are unlike any in the valley, allowing them to establish their own individual brand personality – one that seems to resonate with consumers globally. In July 2025, I managed to taste a tidy selection of new releases from the estate.
Holden Manz Big G 2021, WO Franschhoek, 14.5% Abv.
The 2021 Big G displays lush layers of black currant compote and cherry kirsch liquor with intricate high tone notes of raisined cranberries. Luxurious, creamy and textured, the breadth and depth on the palate is impressive, the tart tangy black cherry fruits mouth coating and broad. The tannins are wonderfully powdery and creamy, the finish picante, glycerol and incredibly long. A suitably impressive follow up vintage to the lauded 2020. Drink on release and over 8 to 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Holden Manz Big G 2020, WO Franschhoek, 15% Abv.
The 2020 vintage was incredibly generous and opulent from the start and this Big G shows layers of ripe plum, sweet mulberries, and tilled earth with subtle red currant berry notes. Super sleek, plush, and silky in the mouth yet carries an impressive weight of fruit concentration, finishing with an intense saline creme de cassis twist. An incredibly seductive, polished red blend from Holden Manz. Drink now and over the next 5 to 8 years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Holden Manz Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Franschhoek, 14.5% Abv.
Rich bold and dark fruited, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has a multi-layered structure brimming with aromas of sweet damson plum, ripe black currant and macerated black cherries. Deliciously sweet fruited on the palate, there is a fine vein of bright acidity running beneath the ripe black berry fruits that harmoniously integrate with plush fleshy tannins and well-integrated, measured oaking. An accomplished wine from this noteworthy Cape vintage. Drink now to 2035+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Holden Manz Merlot Reserve 2022, WO Franschhoek, 14.5% Abv.
This Reserve Merlot shows a smoky, broody, black fruited nose with a distinctive granitic mineral spice before hints of damson plums, ripe black cherries and a delicate cedar oak spice. Impressively light on its feet, the palate is cool and classical, finely grippy yet delightfully fresh and bright with notes of black liquorice, salty black currant, and mint chocolate on the long finish. A very sophisticated and polished style with real presence that will undoubtedly impress Merlot lovers internationally. Drink on release and over the next 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Holden Manz wines are retailed in the UK by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.
I’ve already gone on record for saying I truly believe that the top Cabernet Sauvignons, Cabernet Francs and Cape Bordeaux blends from the 2021 vintage will in future be recognised as some of the best wines produced by the Cape industry to date, surpassing the heights of even 1995, 2009, 2015 and possibly even 2017.
Many mainstream global wine critics who merely did a bit of a “cut and paste” operation on the 2021 scores will , I predict, eventually see the error of their ways and seek contrition, finally acknowledging that perhaps they got it wrong and under rated the vintage and its top wines.
Taaibosch looking towards False Bay, July 2025.
It’s still early days but the highly acclaimed Taaibosch Crescendo 2021 Bordeaux blend is about to be released in the local South African market and in the UK in September. While some local South African critics have rated the wine already and described it as lacking some “profundity” and being too “tentative”, I think, once again, they have fallen into the trap of missing the wine’s innate delicacy, freshness, classism and elegance with subtle intensity and weightless concentration. Raw horse power and muscle does not necessarily make a wine great. The 2021s are most definitely not muscle men, but perhaps more well toned, well proportioned, lithe athletic gymnasts to use an alternative analogy.
Tasting with the Taaibosch team in July 2025.
Only time will tell. But when the winemaker tells you that the 2021 could be the finest wine they’ve ever produced, you need to take them at their word, especially when they tell you this while releasing their previous vintage (the 2020)! So not just a case of “my latest vintage is my greatest” because that’s what I need to sell! A true conviction.
Tasting the 2025 Taaibosch components from barrel.
Taaibosch Crescendo 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.
A sleek, sophisticated blend of 62% Cabernet Franc, 28% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from Taaibosch yields up notes of earthy black currant, cedar spice, wet tobacco, tree bark, sun raisined red currant, dried herbs and subtle fynbos nuances. But it’s on the palate that the true pedigree of this classy blend reveals itself, where incredibly tight grained mineral tannins marry with bright, fresh, taut blue and black berry fruits, saline creme de cassis, sappy currants, damson plums and a mouth coating creamy mineral grip on the finish. Beautifully compact with pin point precise tannins balanced with a real sense of effortless harmony and purity. A simply astounding expression. Drink from 2026 to 2045+. (68,000 bottles produced.)
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Also tasted at Taaibosch…
Le Chant Red Blend 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.
A delicious blend of 38% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah and token amounts of alternative cultivars like Sangiovese. Beautifully brambly and spicy showing earthy red currant notes. Slightly wild and savoury with hints of Christmas spices, raisined black cherries and a peppery creamy mineral finish. Beautifully balanced and already deliciously accessible.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Le Chant Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.
Also from a vineyard in the Polkadraai Hills ward of Stellenbosch that has just turned 35 years old making it official “Old Vine”. The wine displays a creamy, ripe beautifully intense aromatics bursting with white peaches and cream, zesty green apples, pear and honeycomb. Plenty of yellow orchard fruit depth, mid palate fleshiness and granitic mineral intensity on the finish. A real delight. Drink now to 2032+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Taaibosch and Le Chant wines are imported into the UK by Dreyfus Ashby. Contact Richard Kelley MW for trade allocations.
Tasting the new releases of Restless River’s Estate wines, it is fascinating to witness the slow and calculated evolution of this beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde winery. The exploratory, experimental “pushing the boundaries” mood music has shifted subtly to a far more confident, serious, assured market positioning. Correspondingly, in the wider market place, both locally in South Africa and internationally, Restless River has entered a new phase of consolidating the quality and reputational branding Craig and Anne have worked so hard and conscientiously to establish since their maiden releases over a decade ago.
The new Restless River Estate releases.
Part of this new phase of range consolidation has seen a change of distribution in the UK market as well as the launch of two “entry level” Restless River Estate cuvées to help introduce a new segment of wine consumers to the vinous wonders of the larger Restless River brand ethos.
Craig Wessels pouring his new releases in London in May 2025.
In true Craig Wessels style, no corners have been cut with these two new wines, both of which continue the authentic style and quality you’d expect from a premium estate and should rank among the most exciting new releases for consumers from the Cape Winelands in recent years. Watch out for a third new “entry level” red wine, a younger vine Cabernet Sauvignon that will be hitting the market later in the year.
Restless River Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
It’s incredibly difficult to engage completely unbiasedly in a first tasting of this new ‘young vine’ Restless River estate wine when I am such a huge fan and admirer of everything Craig Wessels has achieved on his picturesque estate in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. But looking strictly at the wine in the glass, it possesses a twinkling crystalline canary yellow gold hue with aromatics that are delicately expressive but sophisticatedly restrained all at once, with a bouquet of white blossoms, granitic mineral spice, lemons in brine, pithy white citrus, and subtle hints of dry hay. The palate is wonderfully taut, crisp, and vibrantly fresh but let’s its serious demeanour slip a little with overt, showy pockets of sweet lemon and lime pastille fruit concentration, sweet baking herbs, and delicate vanilla pod spices. The acids are deliciously tangy and the textural structure fresh, vibrant, and accessible suggesting that this 2023 is certainly ready to drink now ahead of its more serious sibling, the Ava Marie Chardonnay. I love what Craig has managed to create with this new, more accessible style without losing any of the steely essence and intensity that makes Restless River’s Chardonnays so special. Drink now to 2035.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Pinot Noir 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
The second new wine in the Restless River range alongside the estate Chardonnay is this exciting young vine Pinot Noir, created as a support wine to the denser and more structured Le Luc Pinot Noir. Once again, Craig has nailed the style offering an accessible, bright juicy Pinot Noir with perfumed aromatics of violets, strawberry compote, blood oranges and red cherry fruits that intermingle with hints of polished mahogany, pomegranates, and sweet Christmas spices. On the palate, the wine is sleek, supple, and silky smooth showing a beautifully balanced mid-weight fruit concentration of red currants, strawberries, and cherries together with bright tangy acids and fine grained, savoury mineral tannins, all assembled in a pleasingly sophisticated manner. This is a delightfully accessible Pinot Noir packed full of energy and mouthwatering freshness that’s ready to drink on release.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14.1% Abv.
Craig and Anne Wessels finally release their highly anticipated 2021 Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon, named as such after their two oldest blocks planted in 1998 in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The 2021 was aged in 225 litre French oak barriques for 24 months, 25% of which were new. The aromatics are deep, dark and slightly broody on opening, before offering up succulent cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon notes of violets and white blossoms, freshly cut sandalwood, sappy cedar spice, macerated red cherries and crème de cassis before delicate hints of black olive tapenade, graphite, bay leaf and black currant herbal tea. The palate is wonderfully sensual and silky, texturally fine boned yet vibrant with an underlying mouthwatering tangy acidity that’s masterfully integrated with silky powdery tannins. With more time in the glass, the tart red cherry notes become more accentuated, mingling with savoury herbal notes, cola, and blueberry rock candy nuances. This is a wonderfully accomplished expression of elegant Cabernet Sauvignon that wears its own unique cool climate Hemel-en-Aarde Valley character with pride. Allow this excellent 2021 vintage to integrate and flesh out further before drinking from 2026 to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Le Luc Pinot Noir 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.
Pinot Noir is a challenging grape to grow in South Africa, but it has undoubtedly found a home from home in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley of Walker Bay. The Le Luc Single Vineyard Pinot Noir from Craig Wessels seems to get better and better every year and with the 2022 vitnage, you see an accomplished wine made from vines planted in 2013. The wine was fermented using 10% whole bunches before being matured in 228 litre barrels for 12 months, 30% of which were new. The aromatics are loaded with toasty, bruleed notes of chargrilled meats, bramble berries, macerated ripe strawberries and earthy red currants before notes of rose petals, leafy black currant, porcini mushrooms and sweet Asian spices. The palate is spicy and sleek, tight knit, but silky and very polished with a medium bodied weight of earthy, brambly fruits and plums in liquor followed by a long, peppery red and black berry fruited finish that’s caressed by sweet soft tannins and bright tangy acids. Enjoy this classy expression on release and over its first 5 to 8 years in bottle.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 12.78% Abv.
While Craig Wessels has overseen a multitude of new plantings around his winery, the Chardonnay grapes for the Ava Marie are among the oldest in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley having been planted in 1999. The resulting wine was matured for 12 months in mostly 500 litre barrels of which 10% were new, together with portions aged in terracotta amphorae and stainless-steel barrels. Pale gold and star bright in the glass, this 2022 has a youthfully alluring aromatics showing citrus blossom, white flowers, lemon oil, and tangerine peel as well as lemon biscuits, oatmeal, and delicate savoury, leesy nuances. There is a hint of smoky struck flint reduction but perhaps far less than on some previous vintages at this same youthful stage. On the palate the precision is enhanced by a notable purity and crystallinity and a linear laser sharp texture, with layers of lemon citrus, yellow grapefruit pith, toffee apples and a vanilla pod dusting. The acidity is vibrant and intense but also beautifully integrated with the medium bodied fruit concentration. This is undoubtedly a very complete wine with a seamless textural demeanour, a majestic balance, and a long pithy wet granite minerality on the polished finish. Drink this beauty on release and over the next 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Restless River wines are imported into the UK market by Liberty Wines.
The world of fine wine is an ever-evolving scene, enriched by a wealth of passionate wine producers but equally by a profusion of passionate wine connoisseurs and collectors all championing different styles of wine. I for one however, cannot think of another category of wine that has in recent years come under more intense scrutiny than that of Grenache or Garnacha Tinta, producing many wines that now sit comfortably at the fine wine top table in the global marketplace. Now in its 9th year, the Judgement of Wimbledon was originally organised by a group of passionate collectors to celebrate the finest expressions of Grenache from various premium producers around the world.
The 2025 blind line up.
On the 1st of May 2025, the time had finally come for the next scintillating instalment of this annual blind tasting challenge. After much deliberation, including many smaller preliminary comparative blind tastings and cork pulling, 16 wines were chosen to make the starting grid for the 2025 judgement tasting. This year’s selection included: three wines from DOC Priorat, two wines from Gredos, two from Aragon, one from DO Montsant, one from DOC Rioja, one from Sardinia, three from Australia, and three from the Swartland in South Africa.
In last years Judgement report, I stated that almost all the big name, big money Grenache wine labels made in a more “sophisticated, terroir-driven style” seemed to be coming from the Spanish heartlands, with many producers making multiple micro-winery boutique labels from old vine plots of Garnacha that in many instances were often abandoned and nearly forgotten and lost for future generations. Grapes that used to be sold off to local co-operatives for below-cultivation cost prices, are now finally being rediscovered with a newly found appreciation for these cherished old vine plots. For the 2025 Judgement tasting, the line-up once again saw a very strong showing from Spain and South Africa, but with this year’s selection featuring a trio of impressively finessed Grenache reds from down under, including one from the Barossa Valley and two from McLaren Vale.
Australian wine has, over the past few years, seen many premium producers begin to reinvent their styles, moving away from the “sunshine in a bottle” mantra, instead embracing minerality, restraint, elegance and freshness, all features that allow for a vineyard’s individual and unique site and terroir characteristics to shine through. Indeed, after the 2024 Judgement tasting, there was a fair amount of parallel commentary surrounding the clear lack of Australian selections, something I feel has been comfortably addressed within the 2025 line-up.
Wine Advocate lead Spanish wine critic Luis Gutierrez.
After Neal Martin from Vinous.com joined the judging panel in 2024, this year, the judges were incredibly fortunate and honoured to be join by possibly one of the world’s emerging critical authorities on premium Grenache, and undoubtedly the one international wine critic that has done more single handedly to champion not only the incredible diversity of Garnacha styles from his home country of Spain, but arguably from all around the world. I speak of course of The Wine Advocate’s lead wine critic for Spain and Portugal, Luis Gutiérrez. The insights, background stories, and tasting expertise offered by Luis made the 2025 Judgement tasting one of the best yet.
Judgement of Wimbledon 2025 Blind Tasting Line Up:
(…featuring my personal blind scores and tasting notes.)
Wine 1 – 2022 Sands of Time, Thistledown, McLaren Vale, Australia
Dense and ripe, pretty, floral hints of rose petal, red liquorice, brambled berries, mint leaf, chocolate peppermint crisp and red plums. Initially quite deep, broody and restrained. The palate is plush, fleshy but very fine grained, showing depth of bramble berry fruits, vibrant tangy acids, and a gently savoury, strawberry laden accessible finish with a hint of alcohol warmth on the tail.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 2 – 2022 Sadie, Soldaat, Piekenierskloof, South Africa
Shows a fine exotic perfume, violets, incense, Turkish delight, plum compote and smoky Turkish bazaar nuances. There are earthy deep broody notes showing plummy meaty foresty hints. Accessible, sweet fruited and quite earthy and brambly, this is full of meaty red currant and strawberry compote, soft fleshy tannins, and a relaxed, lingering finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 3 – 2021 Yangarra Estate, High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale, Australia
A fine aromatic lift with plenty of perfume and fragrance but also a defined mineral undertones over picante black berry fruits. Plenty of minerality and dry stony tannins supported by fairly light sinewy red and black fruits. Plenty of density, concentration, and emerging power on display.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 4 – 2022 Frontonio, El Jardín de las Iguales, Aragon, Spain
The aromatics show an accessible, attractive perfume of musk, Parma violets, wild strawberry, red cherry rock candy and a hint of oystershell reduction. The entry is cool and fleshy, fulsome, tangy, and fresh but with plump creamy red berry and red plum notes beneath. Finish is tight, a little clipped but seems to have plenty more to offer given time.
Another broody, earthy bramble berry character with hints of plums and mulberry before savoury meaty nuances with a dusty granitic undertone. The palate is incredibly soft, fleshy, and accessibly, loose knit and friendly, the tannins mineral and chalky, over spicy red berry fruits with juicy acids but perhaps finishing a little abruptly.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 6 – 2020 Torres, Mas de la Rosa, DOC Priorat, Spain
A richer, more intense aromatics showing cherry tobacco, tannery leather, stewed strawberries, and dried herb garrigue spice. This is a full, rich, plump expression with massive concentration, tart blue and black berry fruits, a creamy mineral undertone with a long, glycerol finish. Plenty of finesse and polished winemaking on display here.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 7 – 2022 Terroir al Limit, Les Manyes, DOC Priorat, Spain
The pretty aromatics are decidedly blacker fruited with black currant, dry tobacco leaf, salinity, hints of herbaceous leafy berry fruit notes with a mineral granitic undertone. The palate follows with savoury, smoky, toasty, meaty black bramble berry fruits, a loose knit structure, light polished tannins and an all-round accessible friendliness.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 8 – 2022 Mas Martinet, Els Escurcons, DOC Priorat, Spain
The aromatics are fresh and spicy, packed full of dried herbs, potpourri, cinnamon and clove spices with tangy red currant and candied strawberry fruits beneath. The mouthfeel is rich, plush, and superbly fleshy and plump, broad across the palate but always soft and juicy with dusty, chalky fine-grained tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 9 – 2022 Momento, Riebeekberg Grenache, WO Swartland, South Africa
This is a more ethereal, taut, linear style with pure perfumed aromatics of red cherry and strawberry with a dusting of granitic mineral spice. On the palate this wine shows class and pedigree, creamy, limestone chalky tannins, polished sleek red berry fruits and real harmonious balance. A lighter, more delicate, ethereal style that delivers in spades.
This is a decidedly riper, more opulent style with layers of stewed black berries, creamy oak, molasses, sun raisined plums and sweet herbs, graphite, and sappy wood spice. A warmer, baked fruit expression that points towards later picked fruit in a warmer climate. The execution is faultless, the tannins like velvet, perfectly marrying with a soft, integrated, seamless acidity. No edges, no corners, this is plush hedonistic opulence.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 11 – 2021 Rico Nuevo, La Quebrá, Gredos, Spain
Beautifully bright, aromatic, perfumed red currant and red cherry perfume with subtle potpourri, garrigue and marzipan hints, strawberry pastille, and hints of rock candy. This shows delicate frame and structure but also silky finesse, violets and potpourri, blood orange, talcum tannins and a long, steely, linear finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 12 – Dylan Grigg 2022 Vinya Vella, Old Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa Valley, Australia
A more classical style with sweet herbs, earthy black currant fruits, leafy sapidity, gravel and a peppery garrigue spice. The palate is silky and soft, light, fleshy and accessibly with delicately drying talcum tannins beneath, finishing with a lingering bramble berry, garrigue, meaty spice. Very classy expression.
Initially incredibly dusty and mineral on the nose, even slightly leafy, with crushed gravel, chalkboard duster, and a whole bunch red berry picante spice. The spicy, dried herb, garrigue expression blossoms further on the palate, packed full of leafy spice, sandalwood, baking herbs and tobacco leaf, wrapped in cool, chalky, powdery tannins.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 14 – 2021 Naude, Grenache, Swartland, South Africa
A deep and alluring expression with blue and black berry fruits, hints of creamy oak, saline cassis and fragrant rose petal perfume that points to a fine concentrated style. Another very sleek expression on the palate with dusty, chalky drying tannins and intense red berry fruits that are enticingly lean and sinewy, before the tangy acidity fans its tail on the finish.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 15 – 2022 Comando G, El Tamboril, Gredos, Spain
A more exotic, ripe, earthy, nutty, spicy style with bay leaf, clove, potpourri, and a medicinal herbal nuance. The palate follows with breadth and power, creamy supple dry tannins and a very open knit, chalky mineral finish. This is a beautifully subtle expression, that whispers but certainly carries a bit of a punch.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine 16 – 2021 Venus la Universal, Venus de La Figuera, Spain
An accessible overt style that shows sweet Christmas herbs, sappy spice, exotic black berry, bathroom soaps and pink musk candy. No doubting the pedigree when this wine hits the palate, boasting silky opulence, huge concentration, plush chalky expansive tannins, wrapping fruit concentration and exceptional length. This is certainly a winemaking masterclass on display.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Judgement of Wimbledon 2025 Group Blind Ranking Results:
With all judges required to offer their final rankings from their favourite to least favourite, numbered from 1 to 16, with the largest score tally going to the top ranked wines which were then all added together to get a final 1 to 16 group ranking by preference points. This format saw Rico Nuevo’s new stylish Gredos place top alongside Comando G’s El Tamboril, followed closely by Judgement newcomer Marelise Niemann’s Momento Single Vineyard Riebeekberg Grenache tied with strong annual performer, Mas Martinet’s Els Escurons from Priorat in Spain.
The Judges’ Totals by “Preference”
However, using just a straight score ranking by averaging all the judges 100-point scores, interestingly saw the Momento single vineyard Grenache topping the averages with an impressive 96.19/100 score. So a slightly different dynamic to that of the judges’ favourite to least favourite choices which of course could easily see 3, 4 or even 5 different wines sitting on the same score of 94 or 95 points etc. However, judges were then required to retaste the matching scored wines and still order them in a preference from 1 to 16.
The Judgement’s highest scored wines by averaging judges’ scores.Convenor of Judges, Riaan Potgieter (on the right) crunching the numbers after the blind tasting.
Judgement of Wimbledon Convenor of Judges, Riaan Potgieter’s Final Conclusions:
At the outset of planning this year’s event, I wasn’t sure how we were going to bring some excitement to the day. We were facing a warm 2022 in both Spain and South Africa, and many producers were telling me that the wines weren’t ready yet. This was exacerbated by a few of our favourites being released later than usual, and therefore not available for the event. In the end, we had nothing to worry about as the 2022s acquitted themselves very well and showed better than previous warm vintages did at a similar stage.
Clearly producers are getting more and more skilful at managing the heat, with most of the wines showing grace and elegance whilst bringing edgy herbal characteristics you don’t get in cooler vintages. A Spanish producer once told me that the warmer vintages are difficult to understand in their youth, but really start to shine after a few years in bottle. Whilst I can certainly attest to this, it seems the 2022s might be able to capture some of that magic much earlier in life.
The top 3 Grenache winners by Judges’ preference.
With a few of our usuals being unavailable, there was space to bring in a few first entrant wines and producers, some of whom I’ve been tracking for some time. Whilst we have tasted their wines for possible inclusion in the past, they have gone from strength to strength in recent vintages and their inclusion became an easy choice. This showed in the final results, with two first time entrants making it into the top 3 wines.
The Judgement of Wimbledon 2025 judges.
One star performer was the Rico Nuevo La Quebrá. I was introduced to this young producer on a trip to Spain in 2024, and loved the wine from the first taste. The Wimbledon judges didn’t know it was in the lineup, and most have never even tasted it, yet it was enchanting and ended up near the top for most. Luis Gutiérrez ranked it his favourite and exclaimed that he “loved it from the first sip to the last.”
Marelise Niemann from Momento pouring her wines in London in recently.
Another strong new entrant was the Momento Riebeekberg Grenache. Whilst we’ve been following Marelise Niemann’s wines for many years, the 2022 single site expressions have taken her Grenache to a whole new level. It ended up 3rd based on ranked preference, but achieved the highest average score across the group.
Generous venue host and fellow judge Barry Van Bergen deep in discussion with Luis Gutierrez.
Finally, a massive thank you to Luis Gutiérrez for joining us at this year’s event. His work has always been our spiritual guide through the exciting world of this, still relatively new, style of Grenache. It was an absolute pleasure to have him there to share the joy of these incredible wines. Signing off for 2025, and I am already looking forward to next year where, I’m sure, there will be even more new discoveries.
Final Judgement of Wimbledon 2025 Results Summary:
A big congratulations to all the producers who are championing elegant, terroir driven, premium Grenache globally. We salute you!
Until next year… that’s a wrap! 🍷
(Ps. If you are a Grenache producer who would like to see your wines considered for the Judgement of Wimbledon 2026 final tasting next year, please do get in touch via my website.)
The Spanish territory of Catalonia is comprised of four provinces, namely Barcelona, Girona, Lleida and Tarragona. Together, these provinces occupy over 30,000 square kilometres in the north-eastern corner of Spain (bordering France and Andorra) and are home to some seven and a half million people. Catalonia is one of a few regions in Spain, such as the Basque Country and Galicia, which has its own language apart from Castilian Spanish. Within Catalonia, you will find one of the most historic and elaborate histories of grape growing and winemaking that stretches back to Roman times and beyond.
While many international wine critics have visited the historical vineyards of Catalonia, especially its more famous wine regions of Priorat, Tarragona and Terra Alta, clustered west of the Catalan capital Barcelona, and Emporda and Alella further east, few of them tend to venture a mere 50km, just an hour and a half northwest up into the mountainous region near the city of Manresa, where you will find the small but increasingly influential Denominacion de Origen Protegida (DOP) of Pla de Bages.
The Exibis winery north east of Manresa.
One of the smallest DOPs in Spain, covering less than 500 hectares of vines (1,186 acres), it is also one of the newest denominacions having only acquired its official status in 1995. Consisting of only 16 wineries that produce just under 3,800 hectolitres of wine, you wouldn’t realise that this region used to be one of the most viticulturally significant areas of Spain in the pre-phylloxera 19th century when vineyards located in the valleys of the Llobregat and Cardener rivers and their weaving tributaries, numbered closer to 27,700 hectares in 1890. After being decimated by phylloxera which took hold in the Pla de Bages region in 1889, it would take almost a hundred years until the region properly resurrected its true winemaking heritage.
Today, 27 different municipalities are entitled to use the designation ‘DO Pla de Bages’ many of which encircle the city of Manresa. Splendid isolation is the word that comes to mind when you consider that this is one of Catalonia’s least densely populated regions. The climate in Pla de Bages is a mixture of Mediterranean and Continental influence with hot summers and cold winters as standard, with around 550 to 600mm of annual rainfall per year, something almost on par with Stellenbosch in South Africa.
Vineyards around the Exibis winery.
Vineyard locations, and the corresponding grape-growing conditions are defined by two distinct types of terroir – The central basin at an altitude of 200m, which has predominantly clay-based soils and is slightly warmer in the growing season, and then the Alt Bages (Upper Bages), which lies at over 500m above sea level and is generally the cooler part of the vineyards with a significant amount of lime in its soils that helps retain moisture during the hot summer months. Another key to high quality grape growing is the significant diurnal temperature variations that help both the red and white cultivars retain their all-important acidity levels while developing flavour complexity, with an annual average temperature of only 13C (maximum 35C and minimum -5C).
The dramatic mountains around DO Pla de Bages.
Having myself also only visited all the famous wine regions to the west of Catalonia, I recently decided to explore this intriguing region of DO Pla de Bages, arranging a visit to the Can Serra dels Exibis winery that I firmly believe is producing some of the most exciting wines in the DO at the moment. Quite fortuitously for me, the founder, co-owner and winemaker, Joan Soler, who is a qualified agronomist and oenologist, used to be the president of the Pla de Bages designation of origin. A man with many talents, superb English, and a never-ending energy, Joan somehow also enthusiastically manages to consult to a number of other local wineries and artisanal projects that produce a wide array of unique wines, more often than not, using indigenous local cultivars.
Sumoll vineyard near the Exibis winery with traditional training on a pole.
Exibis is located between Cardona, with its castle and the salt mountain (must be seen to be believed!); Montserrat, the mountain of spiritual and geological reference; and Sant Benet de Bages, which typifies the expansion of the vineyards through the monastic influence in the region. With the Pyrenees lurking ever presently on the horizon in the north and Barcelona just over one hour to the southeast, Exibis is perfectly situated within the DO.
Joan Soler showing me the latest Exibis vintages still in tank.
Located at 500 metres in altitude, the Exibis winery was started in 2009 and has thrived while Joan has attempted to resurrect the historical wine making practices of the past, which inevitably involved rediscovering lost or abandoned vineyards of indigenous varieties that were once cultivated so successfully by his ancestors, but which are now being improved with the use of modern organic and biodynamic agricultural principals.
Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard over 80+ years old that Joan uses for his Blunt Cuvee.
Speaking to Joan while wandering though his high-altitude vineyards, I loved how he expressed his winemaking philosophy so simply… “to make wines that represent our history as well as our future. But above all, they are the present.” With this sympathetic mindset, Exibis focuses on cultivating both local cultivars like indigenous white Picapoll, red Sumoll, Mandó and Garnacha Tinta, as well as accepted international cultivars like Cabernet Sauvignon, to make “wines that express their terroir as well as the variety, balanced and each with its own unique personality.”
One of the 14th century Tines fermentation tanks carved into a boulder that’s still being used today.
After visiting several of their replanted vineyards, we returned to the Can Serra dels Exibis winery, located on one of the oldest farmhouses in the municipality of Castelladral, thought to have been built in the High Middle Ages during the reconquest of central Catalonia in the 10th century. With the modest winemaking facilities housed in a simple but effect neighbouring modern warehouse, we proceeded to taste through a selection of young wines in tank before moving on to a full range tasting of current release bottled wines.
Joan pulling barrel samples from the barrel cellar.
“Sumoll is a bit like Nebbiolo, thin in the mouth but beautifully powerful and intense with a low pH, rustic but then emerges as a very friendly wine on the persistent finish.” ~ Joan Soler
“Our Mandó is fermented in amphorae and our Sumoll in open topped six-year-old 300 litre oak barrels, before being blended in tank. A wonderful marriage.”
Myself with Anthony Crameri, one of the winery’s export agents, alongside Exibis co-owner Joan Soler.
A Rough Guide to Recent DO Pla de Bages Vintages:
2018 – Rainy fresh vintage making wines with goodfinal ripeness.
2019 – Warm vintage but generally a good, regular year of high quality.
2020 – May / June / July moving to a drier harvest time. But a much cooler, wetter year than compared to nearby Bordeaux.
2021 – A cool, fresh, well-balanced year.
2022 – Hot and dry year making ripe, good quality wines.
2023 – A hot and even drier year than 2022 but still produced wines with good freshness thanks to good diurnal temperature fluctuations.
Exibis Valentina d’Exibis 2023, DO Pla de Bages, 13% Abv.
A blend of 80% Macabeo and 20% Picapoll with a 20% portion of the Macabeo barrel fermented, the rest stainless steel tank fermented before blending and bottling after a light bentonite fining. This shows a deep complex aromatics full of earthy root vegetables, children’s plasticine, dried fennel seeds, buttered white toast, and subtle kerosene and waxy nuances. On the palate the wine is delightfully bright and energetic, packed full of tangy acids, dried orange peel, wet straw, white peach and lemony citrus pastille that ties in nicely to the slight kerosene hints on the nose. Really a very characterful expression from its second vintage of production. Drink now and over the next 3 to 5+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Cellers Underground Pura Vida 2023, Costers del Segre, 13% Abv.
A blend of 40% Garnacha Blanca, 40% Macabeo and a 20% barrel fermented Chardonnay portion. Displays deliciously enticing aromatics of lemon and herbs, melted butter on grilled sweetcorn, sweet green herbs, pear puree, lemon pastille and subtle notes of almond skins and marzipan. The entry is fleshy and vibrant, the acids energetic and fresh – a wine that really speaks to you of its terroir. There’s impressive breadth and palate depth, pithy phenolics but also a long finish of picante green apple and crunchy pear fruits. Really quite an accomplished white blend. Drink now and enjoy its evolution over 5 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tasting the 2024 Les Tines from tank.
Exibis Les Tines 2023, DO Plages de Bages, 13.5% Abv.
All components are unoaked except for a 15% portion of the previous year’s 2022 cuvée that is blended back in after a further 12 months of ageing in used 300 litre French oak barrels. A blend of Mandó, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha Tinta and Sumoll, with 33% of the whole cuvee aged in sandstone hollowed ‘Tines’ tanks carved by locals in the 13th and 14th century. The blend reveals a deep rich expression of wet stone minerality, black berry fruits, sweet sappy oak, and a lactic blueberry complexity. On the palate, the acids are bright and pithy alongside saline, mineral black currant and pithy bramble berry fruits, kissed with a smoky, dusty mineral wet stone intensity. This is an energetic gourmet-friendly wine that is pithy and superbly bright, offering up an enjoyable energy in its youth. Drink now and over the next 5 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Tasting the current vintages from bottle with Joan Soler.
Exibis La Rasa 2020, DO Pla de Bages, 15% Abv.
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sumoll and 10% Mandó. The blend is made, and the wine is aged for 12 months in 300 litre French oak barrels with a 10% to 15% new oak portion. The aromatics are wonderfully bold and intense, brazenly sweet fruited, showing raisined black cherry, black plum and opulent notes of mint chocolate pralines. The texture and mouthfeel are vibrant and invigorating, the acids tangy, nervy but deliciously vivacious. This is a beautifully complete wine, full of broody dark fruits, a vital freshness and pithy fine grained grippy tannins. Modern-styled and pure in essence but retains a hint of Pla de Bages mountain wildness to it. Undoubtedly a very fine wine with years of ageing ahead of it. Drink now to 2036+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Vineyards around the Exibis winery.
Exibis La Rasa 2019, DO Pla de Bages, 15% Abv.
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sumoll and 10% Mandó. The blend is made, and the wine is aged for 12 months in 300 litre French oak barrels with a 10% to 15% new oak portion. From a more ‘normal’ vintage, you see that balance in the essence of the wine’s character. Cool, calm and collected. With an extra year of bottle age, the aromatics are similarly youthful to the 2020, tightly packed with stewed black plum, raisined black cherry, burnt brown sugar and hints of creme de cassis and blueberry fruit opulence. Cooler vintages seem more nervous, but this more temperate expression is relaxed, harmonious and superbly elegant, packed with a fruit density that’s very supple and fleshy. Beautifully intense, tangy and focused, this wine is pure class.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Exibus La Baula 2020, DO Pla de Bages, 13% Abv.
A blend of 66% Sumoll (a portion coming from almost 100-year-old vines) and 34% Mandó fermented in amphorae and the Sumoll fermented in open topped six-year-old 300L oak barrels, then blended in tank. This shares many similar traits with the La Rasa cuvée but shows an extra depth of perfumedaromatics, seamless black cherry confit, bramble berry and sweet grilled herbs. This wine is beautifully elegant and bright, revealing a very sophisticated demeanour. But it’s also a very complete wine, not only fresh and energetic but plush, fleshy and deliciously dense and black fruited, yet always fresh, vibrant and weightlessly concentrated. A more harmonious endeavour, this wine will surely be a big hit with collectors and quality minded connoisseurs. Drink now to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Blunt 2018, DO Pla de Bages, 14.5% Abv.
A cuvée Joan started while working in a commercial winery that produced 16 million bottles of wine, realising that there is a deeper meaning to fine wine – a philosophy inspired by a Japanese importer. A 90% Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon cuvée with a 10% Sumoll portion, the wine is dense, black and opaque in the glass. The aromatics are beautifully layered with notes of sweet blackberry, salty black liquorice, tar, and baked plums with a vanilla pod spice dusting. On the palate, you experience a really plush, full-bodied wine that’s also incredibly easy to drink, with expressive hints of sweet damson plum, mulberry and wild strawberry and displaying sleek, fine grained creamy tannins that frame a wonderfully ripe, pure, harmonious mouthfeel. So balanced and complete, this is one of the most exotically seductive and alluring faces of old vine Cabernet Sauvignon I’ve ever experienced! Drink now to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Joan Soler, co-owner and winemaker at Exibis.The 500m altitude highland vineyards around Can Serra dels Exibis.
The Exibis wines are available ex-cellar. For more information on current vintages and pricing contact Anthony Crameri:
The Stark Conde winery is located in the Jonkershoek Valley ward of the Stellenbosch region and up until 2023, the wines were produced by Cabernet Sauvignon magician, Rudger van Wyk, now head winemaker at Doolhof in Wellington (and who is also producing his own label “New Dawn” … that I will review soon.) I often state that a winery’s quality and ambition can be most easily judged and assessed based on the quality of their entry level offerings, and for the Stark Conde winery, their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon forms one of the most important wines in their range.
Owner Jose Conde and the Stark Conde Winery often describe themselves first and foremost as a premium Cabernet Sauvignon producer and of course why wouldn’t you when your vineyards are situated on some of the most attractive Cabernet-friendly Stellenbosch terroir in the Western Cape. So it is always interesting to taste their Estate Blend Cabernet Sauvignon new release as any winery is only as good as its most modestly priced wine. With the release of the phenomenal 2021 vintage, I was expecting some real fireworks from Stark Conde and thankfully, I was not disappointed.
Stark Conde Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
Undoubtedly one of the best ‘value for money’ premium Cabernet Sauvignon’s produced in the Cape, the highly anticipated 2021 vintage has finally landed and what a beauty it truly is. Dense, dark, and opaque in the glass, this vibrant vintage boasts incredibly lifted, perfumed aromatics packed full of rose petals, violets, potpourri, baking herbs and dried bay leaves, before plush intense notes of saline crème de cassis, graphite, cherry pipe tobacco and iodine hints emerge. On the palate, there is an incredibly sensual, creamy soft textured mouthfeel full of juicy blueberries, black cherries and tart black currant with fine, supple, pliable tannins beautifully framed and enlivened by a juicy, electric mouthwatering acidity. The weightless concentration of black and blue fruits is mesmerising, revealing a fine boned, seductive minerality and a long, pure, fresh berry fruited finish. This wine is simply knock out beautiful, so moreish, so mouthwatering, and so incredibly drinkable now but will of course age effortlessly for 10+ years with its perfect balance of extract and freshness. Wow! What an unbelievable value offering.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Stark Conde wines are available in the UK from specialist merchant Museum Wines at £99 IB per 6 or £23.60pb inc. on their special release offer.
Thelema is one of the most famous estates in the Stellenbosch region and since 2015 has firmly returned to the top of their game. In many ways, the answers to rediscovering their newly energised glory have all been found by returning to the original terroir based principles which made this estate one of the most sought after brands back in the 1990s under the leadership of Gyles Webb.
Of course, while Thelema is proud of its acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot legacy, they are not resting on their laurels, but instead are also championing one of South Africa’s new darling grapes – Grenache. The 2022 vintage is an exciting interpretation made from Stellenbosch fruit that looks set to rival some of the finest local expressions from the Swartland and Piekenierskloof regions.
Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
An incredibly sleek, soft textured Merlot red that’s beautifully supple, delicate and generous with classical aromatics of red currants, liquorice stick, chocolate peppermint crisp, black berries, sweet cedar spice and stony graphite nuances. The palate texture is delicate yet precise, seductively light footed and sleek with silky red berry fruits, creamy powdery tannins, and a mouth filling breadth that’s weightless yet at the same time substantial. While this wine doesn’t possess the added structure of the Merlot Reserve cuvée, it’s still very suave, accessible and delightfully pure fruited. Drink from 2026 to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thelema Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
The 2021 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon represents another highly anticipated release from one of Stellenbosch’s preeminent producers. Four years from vintage, the 2021 is evolving beautifully, displaying aromatics that veer more towards the black fruit spectrum as well as a cool, sleek, disarming purity of black currant and damson plum fruits with floral layers of violets, sweet cedar spice and black berry herbal tea nuances. The palate shows a tightly wound weightless fruit concentration together with an edgy, tensile tannin structure intelligently framed by fresh, crisp acids that lend a real vitality and energy to the wine. A truly commendable vintage that offers a majestic sense of finely honed power and composure with a black tea and dried kelp infused finish. This is yet another cellar worthy classic. Drink on release to 2040+.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thelema Mountain Vineyards Grenache 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.
This Thelema expression of Grenache is fabulously sleek and charming, impressively polished and pinpoint with perfumed aromatics of violets, red bramble berries, raspberries, bay leaf herbs and minty milk chocolate. The texture is cool and polished, the palate weight light to medium bodied, showing impressive clarity and purity, spicy red berry fruits, hints of cherry cola, a deliciously tangy fresh acidity, and a spicy, silky tannin finish. A wonderfully vibrant Grenache full of panache. Drink now to 2032+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thelema Chardonnay 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.
Always daunting following a vintage like the blockbuster Thelema Chardonnay 2021, but with the 2022 release, we have another substantial white wine that was aged for 10 months in 228-litre barrels of which 35% was new French oak. The aromatics are complex and utterly enticing, balancing notes of wet granite, pithy lemon peel, yellow grapefruit, freshly baked pastries and dried herbs before subtle struck flint reductive hints. The palate is crystalline, bright and fresh with a creamy vanillary oak spice that melts away gently into yellow citrus, candied green apples and tart white pear. This is a wine that will please a lot of Chardonnay drinkers with its classy oaking, crisp vibrant acids and its long, concentrated fleshy finish. Classic Stellenbosch Chardonnay done well! Drink on release until 2032+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Thelema Wines are imported into the UK by Enotria Wines.
