Amphorae

Three Exciting New Wines From Lokaia – Tasting the 2022 Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Few new winemaking projects reach the characterful quality heights and consumer cult status of Lokaia after only three vintages of production. But this is a very special collaboration between Craig McNaught of Stony Brook and Clayton Reabow of Môreson.

Certainly not a run of the mill style of winery, Lokaia is credited with producing some of the most exciting and individual wines in the Franschhoek Valley in recent years with their hallmarks being vibrant, fresh, early picked fruit fermented on their skins in amphorae in order to express their individual terroirs.

Lokaia produce exciting, innovative, nervy wines that are certainly very much ‘new wave’ in many respects but which also keep one eye firmly on a classical Old-World aesthetic.

Lokaia Pound of Flesh Semillon 2022, WO Franschhoek, 10.5% Abv.

The small production boutique Pound of Flesh Semillon made from Stony Brook vineyards in the Bo-Hoek area of Franschhoek has been one of the truly great new release white revelations of the past two to three years in South Africa. This cultivar is in its terroir home in the Franschhoek Valley and simply excels there, showing intense aromatics of white peaches, lime peel, lemon grass, freshly cut Granny Smith apples with complexing hints of white blossom, dried herbs, wet hay, lanolin and intricate mineral notes of crushed gravel. The palate is equally enticing, showing incredible fruit concentration as well as a piercing glassy acidity, all concertinaed into a very taut, tight, linear but explosive package. With the amphorae winemaking and early picked freshness and purity, the Pound of Flesh Semillon represents a sublime expression of nervy, crystalline white wine with an enviable vibrancy and precision. If you missed the earlier vintages, do not miss this inspiring 2022 release. Drink now and over the next 5 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lokaia Sandman Chardonnay 2022, WO Franschhoek, 12.5% Abv.

Another high-flying category in South Africa along with Semillon, Chardonnay also happens to be a cultivar that performs exceptionally well in the Franschhoek Valley and the grapes for this impressive 2022 Sandman Chardonnay are sourced from the vineyards of white wine focused Môreson winery where Lokaia co-owner Clayton Reabow is head winemaker. The previous vintages of this wine have been likened to drinking premium Premier Cru Chablis Chardonnay and this fabulous 2022 follows a similar stylistic aesthetic boasting a nutty, white citrus fruit laden aromatics with intricate nuances of dried herbs, wet chalk, waxy lemon peel, salted pistachios, melted honey and subtle salty oyster shell and granitic mineral spice layers over leesy savoury notes. On the palate, the acidity is fresh and pronounced, becoming another key foundation block of the harmoniously taut, classically structured, liquid mineral finish. Yet again, this is an incredibly striking expression of Chardonnay that will certainly delight the purists. Drink on release and over the next 3 to 5+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Lokaia Call of the Void Cabernet Franc 2022, WO Franschhoek, 10% Abv.

Always electrically intense and bright, this is another benchmark expression of exceptional Cabernet Franc, with its pristine aromatics of purple flowers, violets, rock candy and sweet lily. In the modern world, this is an undoubtedly taut, tight expression of Cabernet Franc with the palate breadth and depth, expansive and profound, showing complex smoky cranberry and red cherry nuances. This incredibly mineral, ethereal expression is simple class, strutting its shoulders and plumping its chest while acknowledging the finer, fresher aspects of the wine. This is undoubtedly the finest expression of Lokaia Cabernet Franc to date and from first taste, and you know you are in for a profound taste adventure when you approach the 2022. Drink now and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Lokaia wines are imported into the UK by Museum Wines.

Catherine Marshall Releases Another Benchmark 2020 Fermented in Clay Chenin Blanc…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

I’ve been following the new releases of this wine for several years now and it has certainly proven beyond doubt to be one of the most accomplished Chenin Blancs on the South African fine wine scene.

Grapes for the 2020 were again selected from a single vineyard in Elgin grown on red Laterite soils also known as “koffieklip” or coffee stone as it resembles the same structure as ground coffee, and also from from grapes grown in the Bottelary Hills in Stellenbosch on old bush vines in lighter soils, which were harvested in early March. Once fermentation was completed in the clay amphorae, 800 litres of wine was decanted to oak casks for a further 9 months maturation.

The wine portion aged in the clay amphorae had no malolactic fermentation so that the fresher flinty characters would be maintained. After 9 months, the two components were blended together and lightly filtered before bottling.

Catherine Marshall Fermented in Clay Chenin Blanc 2020, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv.

TA 5.6g/l | pH: 3.4 | RS: 2.1g/l | Total Extract: 23.2g/l

After the phenomenal 2017 and eye-watering 2019 Fermented in Clay Chenin Blanc, expectations for follow up vintages become almost impossibly high. But this 2020 is another real head turner with aromatics brimming with crunchy white peaches, tangerine, orange peel, green pears and a beguiling melange of grilled herbs and stony granitic minerality. On the palate this youthful 2020 is cool, crisp, focused and texturally quite linear and taut with tangy acids, a steely concentration of peach pastille, yellow tropical fruit bon bons, clementines and yet more unfurling layers of wet river pebbles and stony liquid minerality. Cathy has now established a rock solid track record for this wine which must surely rank in the top 10 Chenin Blancs produced in South Africa.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wines available to the trade in the UK from Seckford Wine Agencies.

Fine Wine Safari New Release Review – Tasting the Catherine Marshall Fermented in Clay Chenin Blanc 2019…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

I first came across Catherine Marshall’s Fermented in Clay Amphorae Chenin Blanc a couple years back with the 2017 example that really impressed me and if I am not mistaken, was one of my favourite whites of the year. I love the expression of authenticity that wines take on when fermented in clay amphorae vessels and Cathy has done a fabulous job on this wine year after year.

The 2019 vintage in the Cape is another exceptional year and for all the wines I have already tasted, not one has not lived up to my high expectations. This specific Chenin Blanc was made from Elgin fruit grown on a combination of deep clay soils and old bush vines on Laterite soils. Once fermentation was completed in the clay amphorae, 500 litres was decanted to oak casks for further maturation.

The wine in the French coopered barrels was partially allowed to go through malolactic fermentation and further matured for 11 months. The clay amphorae portion had no malolactic fermentation so that the fresher flinty characters would be maintained. After 11 months, the two components were blended and lightly filtered before bottling.

Catherine Marshall Chenin Blanc Fermented in Clay 2019, WO Western Cape, 13% Abv.

(2.6 RS g/l, 3.32 pH, 5.8 g/l Acidity)

This beautiful Chenin Blanc really is a gorgeous wine. I loved the 2017 and 2018 but this 2019 seems to reach an even higher, more honed level of quality and purity. The aromatics combine intense notes of crushed gravel, dusty baked granite, dried straw and hints of fynbos and white lilies with nuances of dried pineapple slices, fresh yellow orchard fruits and a delicate pinch of fresh lemon peel. The palate is fabulously broad, glycerol and mouth coating with multi-layers of tart bright pineapple pastille, crunchy green pears, lemon cordial and a subtle hint of tart juicy tangerine fruit. Lovely stone fruit characters resonate on the palate with an incredible intensity, a piercing line of acidity and the most agreeable, integrated liquid minerality on the finish. Undoubtedly a great vintage handle expertly by Cathy with just that extra little je ne said pas added by the fermentation in the clay amphorae. I’m utterly smitten by this delicious, soulful wine. Drink from 2020 to 2030+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Fabien Jouves’ Mas del Périé Cahors Amphore Malbec 2015 ~ Benchmark Biodynamic Cahors Red…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Mas del Périé is run by Fabien Jouves and is located on the Haut Plateau south west of Cahors in Trespoux Rassiels. The soils in the vineyards where the grapes for the Amphore Cuvee is made is a complex mix of clay and Limestone with iron. 


The vines are managed along organic and biodynamique principles and the fruit is handpicked and selected at the winery prior to fermentation in inert old oak Vats before transferring to amphorae for ageing and maceration for 6 to 9 months. The resulting wines are neither filtered nor fined. Fabien’s 5 years in Bordeaux also taught him a thing or two about how to manage the rustic Cahors tannins.


Fabien breaks most preconceptions about  French Cahors wines, creating such rich, mineral, textured expressions that are both modern, accessible and ageworthy at the same time. Not everything exciting happening with Malbec is taking place in Argentina…. Cahors offers some exceptional expressions. 


Tasting Note: Dense, overt style with lifted black berry fragrance, leafy ripe pithy plum skins and plenty of sappy black plum and blue berry crumble notes. Opulent, with a fleshy seamless texture, powdery tannins and a fresh, energetic intensity and pronounced black peppercorn complexity. Beautiful savoury nuances from the amphorae make this wine taste almost Northern Rhone in style. Such generosity, and drinkability, this Cuvee must be the best value for money style in Fabian’s whole range. (Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)