I’ve been following the new releases of this wine for several years now and it has certainly proven beyond doubt to be one of the most accomplished Chenin Blancs on the South African fine wine scene.
Grapes for the 2020 were again selected from a single vineyard in Elgin grown on red Laterite soils also known as “koffieklip” or coffee stone as it resembles the same structure as ground coffee, and also from from grapes grown in the Bottelary Hills in Stellenbosch on old bush vines in lighter soils, which were harvested in early March. Once fermentation was completed in the clay amphorae, 800 litres of wine was decanted to oak casks for a further 9 months maturation.
The wine portion aged in the clay amphorae had no malolactic fermentation so that the fresher flinty characters would be maintained. After 9 months, the two components were blended together and lightly filtered before bottling.
Catherine Marshall Fermented in Clay Chenin Blanc 2020, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv.
TA 5.6g/l | pH: 3.4 | RS: 2.1g/l | Total Extract: 23.2g/l
After the phenomenal 2017 and eye-watering 2019 Fermented in Clay Chenin Blanc, expectations for follow up vintages become almost impossibly high. But this 2020 is another real head turner with aromatics brimming with crunchy white peaches, tangerine, orange peel, green pears and a beguiling melange of grilled herbs and stony granitic minerality. On the palate this youthful 2020 is cool, crisp, focused and texturally quite linear and taut with tangy acids, a steely concentration of peach pastille, yellow tropical fruit bon bons, clementines and yet more unfurling layers of wet river pebbles and stony liquid minerality. Cathy has now established a rock solid track record for this wine which must surely rank in the top 10 Chenin Blancs produced in South Africa.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wines available to the trade in the UK from Seckford Wine Agencies.
I first came across Catherine Marshall’s Fermented in Clay Amphorae Chenin Blanc a couple years back with the 2017 example that really impressed me and if I am not mistaken, was one of my favourite whites of the year. I love the expression of authenticity that wines take on when fermented in clay amphorae vessels and Cathy has done a fabulous job on this wine year after year.
The 2019 vintage in the Cape is another exceptional year and for all the wines I have already tasted, not one has not lived up to my high expectations. This specific Chenin Blanc was made from Elgin fruit grown on a combination of deep clay soils and old bush vines on Laterite soils. Once fermentation was completed in the clay amphorae, 500 litres was decanted to oak casks for further maturation.
The wine in the French coopered barrels was partially allowed to go through malolactic fermentation and further matured for 11 months. The clay amphorae portion had no malolactic fermentation so that the fresher flinty characters would be maintained. After 11 months, the two components were blended and lightly filtered before bottling.
Catherine Marshall Chenin Blanc Fermented in Clay 2019, WO Western Cape, 13% Abv.
(2.6 RS g/l, 3.32 pH, 5.8 g/l Acidity)
This beautiful Chenin Blanc really is a gorgeous wine. I loved the 2017 and 2018 but this 2019 seems to reach an even higher, more honed level of quality and purity. The aromatics combine intense notes of crushed gravel, dusty baked granite, dried straw and hints of fynbos and white lilies with nuances of dried pineapple slices, fresh yellow orchard fruits and a delicate pinch of fresh lemon peel. The palate is fabulously broad, glycerol and mouth coating with multi-layers of tart bright pineapple pastille, crunchy green pears, lemon cordial and a subtle hint of tart juicy tangerine fruit. Lovely stone fruit characters resonate on the palate with an incredible intensity, a piercing line of acidity and the most agreeable, integrated liquid minerality on the finish. Undoubtedly a great vintage handle expertly by Cathy with just that extra little je ne said pas added by the fermentation in the clay amphorae. I’m utterly smitten by this delicious, soulful wine. Drink from 2020 to 2030+.
Mas del Périé is run by Fabien Jouves and is located on the Haut Plateau south west of Cahors in Trespoux Rassiels. The soils in the vineyards where the grapes for the Amphore Cuvee is made is a complex mix of clay and Limestone with iron.
The vines are managed along organic and biodynamique principles and the fruit is handpicked and selected at the winery prior to fermentation in inert old oak Vats before transferring to amphorae for ageing and maceration for 6 to 9 months. The resulting wines are neither filtered nor fined. Fabien’s 5 years in Bordeaux also taught him a thing or two about how to manage the rustic Cahors tannins.
Fabien breaks most preconceptions about French Cahors wines, creating such rich, mineral, textured expressions that are both modern, accessible and ageworthy at the same time. Not everything exciting happening with Malbec is taking place in Argentina…. Cahors offers some exceptional expressions.
Tasting Note: Dense, overt style with lifted black berry fragrance, leafy ripe pithy plum skins and plenty of sappy black plum and blue berry crumble notes. Opulent, with a fleshy seamless texture, powdery tannins and a fresh, energetic intensity and pronounced black peppercorn complexity. Beautiful savoury nuances from the amphorae make this wine taste almost Northern Rhone in style. Such generosity, and drinkability, this Cuvee must be the best value for money style in Fabian’s whole range. (Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)