The revolution in premium wine quality that has occurred in Italy over the past three decades must surely count as one of the wider wine success stories on a continent that has generally witnessed decreasing consumption. From Piedmont to Tuscany to Puglia, no region was left untouched by the wave of new quality wine production. Tuscany certainly grabbed its fair share of the wine headlines with Chianti Classico, Bolgheri and Montalcino leading the charge. But another great homeland of Sangiovese somehow seemed to miss out on a similar amount of fame, namely Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – and no estate in the region is more famous for their winemaking achievements over the past 15+ years than the Avignonesi Estate.

Situated in the hills of Tuscany on the edge of Montepulciano near Cortona, Avignonesi became synonymous with quality wine making as far back as the 1970s, but it was only when the estate passed into the hands of the Belgian industrialist Virginie Saverys in 2008 that the developments we now see in the estate’s vineyards and in the Avignonesi wines themselves became clear. Much of this change has focused on the vineyards, with conversion to biodynamic agriculture and organic production being the spearhead that has allowed the wines to not only soar in quality, but in a way that is true to the vineyards and terroir from which the grapes are sourced.

Avignonesi is now considered a Sangiovese specialist, but they have also dedicated much effort to promote other native red and white indigenous varieties from the region, in many instances as a quality assurance in the face of global climate change. With the organic and biodynamic vineyard practices carried into the winery, owner Virginie has sought to not only allow the wines to benefit qualitatively but also the wider Avignonesi worker community. 

My last visit to the estate was way back in May 2018, when I spent several days walking the vineyards, visiting and tasting at the winery and soaking up the wider Tuscan culture of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Similarly, Virginie Saverys’ journey to winery ownership began when she visited Tuscany and fell in love with the place and its wines. In 2007, she purchased 20% of Avignonesi (established in 1974) and in 2009, the two brothers who owned the winery, sold it to her in its entirety. Virginie Saverys came to winery ownership first and foremost as a wine consumer, not as a winemaker, but she did spend two years in Bordeaux immersed in vineyards and winemaking to prepare herself for winery ownership. Her background is in law and Virginie brings her lawyerly attention to every detail at Avignonesi.

Under Virginie’s tenure, Avignonesi has eliminated the use of all herbicides and pesticides in the vineyards which were certified Organic in 2016 and Biodynamic in 2019. Of the 174 hectares under vine, 99 hectares are planted to Sangiovese and fermentations only use naturally occurring yeasts, with Avignonesi’s wines now also Vegan certified. There is a genuine and meaningful commitment to the land and local natural environment and accordingly to my knowledge, Avignonesi remains the largest fully biodynamic certified estate in Europe. 

I recently caught up with their brand ambassador in London and took the opportunity to refresh my Avignonesi tasting notes with a selection of their current releases, all available in the UK through Andrew Johnson at Woodwinters.

Avignonesi Da.Di Bianco 2023, IGT Toscana Bianco, 13.5% Abv. 

A honey bronze yellow colour, this 2023 blend is circa 50% Orpicchio, 19% Grechetto, 12% Vermentino, and a co-fermentation of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Rich and juicy on the nose, the aromatics are full of yellow orchard fruits, melted honey on toast, with complexing hints of lychee, potpourri, and lemon herbal tea nuances. The palate is medium to full bodied, beautifully vibrant and tangy with zesty acids, a concentrated lemon and herbal white peach depth, finishing with a pithy, mouthwatering Golden Delicious appley length. Drink now to 2028+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Da.Di Rosso Biologico 2022, IGT Toscana, 13% Abv. 

Another exciting expression from the Avignonesi estate that circumvents the use of stainless steel and oak barrels in favour of Tuscan clay amphorae, hence the name Da-Di was chosen, meaning “earth, soil” in Chinese. Vinified in 13 terracotta vessels made in Tuscany – 8 manufactured by Artenova in Impruneta, and 5 were manufactured by Laboratorio San Rocco in Torrita di Siena using clay from the famous Mount Amiata. An exotic blend of indigenous Tuscan varieties including 28,04% Canaiolo, 27,08% Sangiovese, 23,51% Mammolo, 15,67% Alicante, and 5,7% Ciliegiolo, the 2022 is initially slightly broody and closed on the nose as is common with Amphorae wines, but after a little air, the wine simply blossoms into an energetic expression showing bright perfumed aromatics of violets and star anise, red currants and crushed raspberries with an intricate basaltic minerality interwoven into the fabric of the wine. The texture is medium bodied but deliciously inviting, layered with chalky mineral tannins, red and black berry fruits, hints of dried baking spices and raspberry coulis, finishing with an energetically fresh, tangy bright acidity that makes the palate salivate and invites another sip. A pretty style of wine that trades on subtlety, elegance and freshness instead of overt power. Drink on release and over 3 to 5+ years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 91/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vintage Release 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv. 

Produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes sourced from bush vine vineyards planted between 1995 and 2017, the wine was aged for 18 months in mainly Slavonian oak casks as well as some French oak barriques and tonneaux. From a warm dry vintage, the nose reveals a seductive fragrance of ripe red cherries, sun raisined cranberries and ripe pomegranate with delicate hints of sweet sandal wood and vanilla pod spice. The palate is incredibly harmonious and inviting, with sweet fleshy Sangiovese red and black berry fruit notes coating the palate with yet more red cherry, plum compote, and subtle earthy red currant nuances. The wine shows beautifully supple tannins that are fine grained and gently mineral and drying, supported by incredibly well integrated tangy, vibrant acids. This is a wine that displays the most friendly and attractive personality of Sangiovese from Montepulciano with accessibility, precision, and elegance. Simply delicious. Drink on release and over 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vintage Release 2014, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv. 

As always, a 100% Sangiovese cuvee from Vino Nobile coming from a more challenging vintage, this archive release was introduced to market just as it was starting to reach its prime drinking window. A cool, subtle vintage handled with great care, the aromatics show a delicate tertiary complexity of soft black liquorice, sun raisined black berry, tilled earth, sweet Christmas spices and subtle herbal wood spice notions. Beautifully sleek and supple in the mouth, the palate reveals macerated black plums, salty liquorice, and earthy black currant wrapped in super fine-grained tannins with a sleek integrated acidity. Maturing beautifully so far, this wine might just be a sommelier’s dream ticket with its beautiful approachability. Drink now and over the next 5-8 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra 2020, DOCG Toscana, 13.5% Abv. 

Another terrific pure Sangiovese that shows a deliciously expressive aromatics of warm black berry compote, earthy red currants, mulberries, melted tar, and damson plum. Broody and dark fruited, on the palate the wine comes alive boasting a silky, spicy black fruited depth, sour plum, pithy black cherry and hoisin plum sauce nuances. Silky, soft and fleshy, there is a great approachability and generosity to the fruit but also a fine, noble mineral restraint. This is a top-drawer Vino Nobile with fruit harmony, a spicy complexity and great persistence on the finish. This is exactly what consumers want from this famous region!

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi Desiderio Merlot 2020, IGT Toscana, 14.5% Abv.

Pure Merlot’s premium reputation in Tuscany precedes it with multiple distinguished examples earning a lot of friends around the world. While some can be rather sweet and plummy, this pretty Avignonesi expression shows an attractive aromatics of black cherries, black currant, and inky blue berries with delicate notions of salted caramel and vanilla pod oak spice. The texture is taut and chiselled, with a defined linearity and steely acid frame adding to a fine boned mineral skeletal frame that support the ample stewed black berry, black plum and mulberry fruits. This is a serious, stern, contemplative, age worthy Merlot expression with a wonderfully stony minerality, pronounced graphite nuances, and a polished pithy blueberry finish. Drink from now until 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score:  93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Avignonesi & Capannelle 50&50 2019, IGT Toscana, 14% Abv. 

First created in 1988 as a joint venture between friends, this 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot blend speaks of the friendship and enjoyment that sharing great bottles of wine brings into peoples’ lives. The aromatics are enticingly deep and broody, tightly packed with layers of red and black berry fruits, sweet earthy black currant, hints of mulberry and an attractive freshly baked black cherry pie nuance. The palate shows a precise, linear, mouth-watering acidity that lends extra structural ballast to the polished marble tannins, that are draped in ripe savoury blue and black berry fruits with hints of stewed winter plums, sweet balsamic reduction, and dried baking spices. A confident wine that is effortlessly balanced yet harbours a deceptively powerful depth and breadth. Enjoy this punchy, concentrated expression now and over the next 5 to 10+ years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)