From the Fine Wine Safari Cellar – Part 12: Tasting the Crystallum Clay Shales 2014 Chardonnay from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley…

Crystallum is one of South Africa’s most compelling and impressive boutique wineries, founded by brothers Peter-Allan and Andrew Finlayson in the cool-climate Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near Hermanus. Since its establishment, the estate has built a reputation as a benchmark producer of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, wines that reflect a distinctly Burgundian sensibility while remaining unmistakably expressive of their local South African terroir.

Crystallum’s Chardonnays are particularly celebrated for their precision, tension, and mineral-driven character, achieved through meticulous vineyard selection, whole-bunch pressing, wild yeast fermentation, and thoughtful use of older oak that allows fruit and site to speak clearly rather than being overshadowed by winemaking. Among these, the Clay Shales Chardonnay stands out as a wine of remarkable focus and individuality. Named for the distinctive clay-shale soils from which it is sourced, this cuvée captures the interplay between soil, cool maritime climate, and careful cellar craft. It typically shows a taut, saline minerality layered beneath ripe citrus and orchard fruit, with a textural richness balanced by vibrant acidity. The result is a Chardonnay of both elegance and structure, capable of ageing gracefully while offering immediate pleasure – a fitting emblem of Peter-Allan’s broader philosophy of letting terroir lead the way.

Crystallum Clay Shales Chardonnay 2014, WO Overberg, 13.5% Abv.

The 2014 vintage was a cooler year in South Africa and this deliciously youthful 2014 from Peter-Allan Finlayson is an absolute stunner! The Clay Shales cuvee is of course Crystallum’s top white, and this classy expression simply shines, brimming with fresh, pithy, herby aromatics of white flowers, honey suckle, lemon cordial, dried baking herbs and a delicate limestone minerality over defined leesy biscuit nuances. In the mouth, the wine is cool, fresh and crisp, the flavours taut and tight, incredibly pure and vivid with a crystalline white citrus freshness, tangy orange peel-tinged acids, notes of brioche, lemon pith, yellow grapefruit and lemon cream biscuits on the dry pithy finish. But it is the youthful clarity and structure of the wine that is simply astounding at almost 13 years old! If this wine’s ageing is linear, on the basis of this incredible bottle (sealed under DIAM and wax), it will age easily another 10+ years beneficially. What an incredible treat… for a bottle purchased on release!

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Crystallum Wines are imported into the UK by Liberty Wines.