Cape Bordeaux Blend

Adam Mason Spinning His Vinous Magic Again at Franschhoek Boutique Winery Terre Paisible – Tasting a Pair of their Latest Releases… 

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The premium Terre Paisible winery project in the Franschhoek Valley gathers pace and with consulting winemaker Adam Mason with his hand firmly on the rudder, this is definitely a winery brand to watch. With grapes for their Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay sourced from their own premium vineyards in the valley, quality has been steadily heading upwards.

Their 2021 Chardonnay was an impressively Burgundian-styled cool climate expression garnering numerous global accolades. Likewise, Adam’s super suave 2021 red Cape Bordeaux blend made from bought in fruit from several premium sites from around Stellenbosch, bears testament to the incredible quality of the 2021 vintage. I had a snapshot tasting of the full unfinished range in South Africa in March with Adam but recently tasted the below completed pair of wines in London, including the follow up 2022 Chardonnay Vigne d’Or.

Terre Paisible Vigne d’Or Chardonnay 2022, WO Franschhoek, 13% Abv.

The Terre Paisible Vigne d’Or Chardonnay 2022 is a distinctive assemblage of grapes all from their own Franschhoek Valley vineyards, fermented and matured for 9 months in 500 litre neutral French oak barrels. The aromatics offer up expressive notes of white flowers, pickled cucumber, baked Golden Delicious apples, warm custard, and Key Lime pie together with subtle salted caramel and grapefruit confit nuances. On the palate the oaking is sympathetic and beautifully integrated allowing crystalline lemon and lime fruit notes to shine through. The wine has impressive concentration and a focused fruit intensity which is caressed by fresh tangy acids and a delicately pithy mineral finish. This is an exceptionally well-made wine that stylistically marries the best notions of white Burgundy with the opulence of a Californian-styled Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Drink it on release and over 3 to 5 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Terre Paisible Vigne d’Or Red Blend 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Consultant winemaker Adam Mason (of Klein Constantia fame) certainly got the opportunity to flex his winemaking expertise with this new release from one of the greatest Cape vintages in the past two decades, and this 2021 Terre Paisible Red Blend surely stands as one of the most exciting new red wines from the Cape in recent years. This noble expression draws on the finest fruit from the Stellenbosch region to deliver a fragrant expression with lifted aromatics of crème de cassis, pressed violets, potpourri, cherry tobacco, and sweet plums with hints of sappy cedar spice. Dense and generous but supple in the mouth, this wine shows an incredibly layered texture with a fresh seamless core of salted plums, blueberry, and black currant, all energised by a crisp, vibrant acidity and a sleek, powdery mineral tannin mouthfeel that’s polished and suitably tight knit. Simply wonderful to witness such inspired winemaking in an iconic vintage like 2021. Drink on release but preferably over the next 5 to 12+ years. A real triumph from Adam Mason.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

After Almost a Decade, I Finally Track Down and Taste The Mythical Van Biljon Cinq 2015 Release…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

The Van Biljon boutique winery owned by Anton and Julia Van Biljon lies on a small farm situated in the Polkadraai Hills ward of the Stellenbosch region, neighbouring other highly esteemed producers such as Reyneke Wines, Raats Family Wines and De Toren Private Cellar. The region is well known for its deep, fertile and well drained decomposed granite soils and the moderating cool sea breezes that blow in off False Bay, lying directly to the South of the winery. Meticulous viticultural practices yield pristine grapes with intense colour, concentrated fruit flavours and firm structured tannins. 

I have been tasting and reviewing the impressive Van Biljon wines, made by famed winemaker Chris Keet, since the 2013 vintage. But the 2015 Cinq Blend always remained a blank spot in my tasting knowledge as the entire vintage had been rumoured to have been sold to a Gulf State airline for their first class menu after the wine received the coveted 5 Star Platters Award as well as the overall Platters Red Blend of the Year 2020  award in the Cape Bordeaux Blend category.

Tasting with winemaker Chris Keet at the Van Biljon cellar.

But finally, after almost 10 years since vintage, a small parcel of the famed 2015 vintage has arrived in the UK and I was lucky enough to get a sneak peek of this wine.

Vineyards just above the Van Biljon winery.

The 2015 vintage saw a mild start to the season evolve into a hot and dry ripening period in February and March. Judicious irrigation was implemented to try reduce stress levels in the vines and extend the overall ripening period. The cool daily sea breezes from the False Bay ocean played a pivotal role in maintaining lower stress levels in the vines, allowing top quality fruit to be harvest.

Van Biljon Cinq 2015, WO Stellenbosch, 15% Abv.

2.7g/l RS | 5.8g/l TA | 3.57pH

The 2015 Van Biljon Cinq is a classical Cape Bordeaux Blend consisting of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 17 Malbec, 12% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. This is an incredibly famed vintage in the Cape for good reason, forging some of the most notable wines in South Africa’s modern vinous history. The aromatics speak of a ripe, opulent harvest revealing notes of black currant compote, freshly tilled earth, sweet baking herbs, black cherry preserve, sweet black chai tea, cherry tobacco and fresh tannery leather. In the glass, the wine slowly unfurls, layer upon layer, playing a slow seduction game with creamy crème de cassis, savoury black plum, bruleed coffee beans, hints of milk chocolate and condensed milk nuances. The texture is wonderfully fine grained and harmonious, yet equally substantial, showing dry chalky mineral tannins, a super fresh vitally, and a corresponding density and concentration commensurate with this highly acclaimed vintage. Ten years on, many in the Cape still consider the 2015 vintage without equal, and this majestic Cape Bordeaux Blend from Van Biljon simply adds further credence to this vintage’s legendary status. Drink now or cellar for a further 8 to 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Van Biljon Wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Wood Winters wine merchants. Contact: andrew@woodwinters.com

South Africa’s Iconic Cape Bordeaux Blend Brand Meerlust Estate Releases Their 2018 Rubicon…

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In November 2019, winemaker Wim Truter joined Meerlust, taking over from Chris Williams to become only the third winemaker to take the reins at this historic estate. Chris had finally followed his own calling and decided to move on to the next chapter of his winemaking career to further grow his own Foundry Winery brand. So, while technically the 2018 vintage is still regarded as the fruits of Chris’s labours, Wim Truter has done a fine job overseeing not only the release of this new Rubicon blend but also the declassification of the 2019 Rubicon vintage into the Meerlust Red 2019 for the first time since 2011. Meerlust Red 2019 reviewed here… https://gregsherwoodmw.com/2021/10/17/the-resurrection-of-the-meerlust-red-blend-tasting-the-2019-vintage-release/

There are few premium brands in South Africa who produce the high quantity of quality wine that Meerlust Estate does, and so it was inevitable that the Covid-19 pandemic and resulting lock-down would have a disproportionately negative effect on sales of this world-famous brand that is listed by almost every leading hotel, restaurant and bar in South Africa as well as in a never-ending list of top restaurants and 5 Star hotels around the world. As a result, consumers have had a longer run of availability with the exceptional 2017 Rubicon that was rated 96+/100 on the Fine Wine Safari. But the time has finally come for the 2017 Rubicon to pass the baton over to the highly anticipated 2018 vintage. Meerlust Rubicon is undoubtedly one of South Africa’s greatest wine ambassadors. If you have not tasted it yet, you are indeed missing out on one of the great Bordeaux blends produced in the Cape.

The higher altitude and close proximity to the sea helped cool the vineyards during the hot and dry vintage of 2018.

Meerlust Estate Rubicon 2018, WO Stellenbosch, 14.3% Abv.

2.6 g/l RS | 5.54 g/l TA | 3.63 pH

The 2018 Rubicon is a classical blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, with every parcel of each variety fermented separately before undergoing malolactic fermentation in 300 litre barrels and large foudré. After 8 months in barrel, the components were blended and given another 10 months in barrel for harmonization before bottling. Wonderfully deep in colour, the nose is splendidly expressive showing quintessential Cabernet Sauvignon notes of pressed violets, black plum, sun raisin black currants, black salty liquorice, black chai tea, sweet cedar spice and layers of graphite and spearmint. While the aromatics are dominated by rich, dark berry fruits, the palate is classically proportioned with plenty of overt elegance and textural finesse – a great feat considering the heat and drought of the 2018 vintage. The extra bottle age before release has undoubtedly been a positive for this powerful, structured blend, helping to further round out the suave creamy tannins and harmonise the earthy black berry fruit layers, making the acids polished, glassy and fresh rather than taut and crunchy like many other 2018 reds. Unexpectedly approachable in its youth, I would have no hesitancy to cellar this super smart blend for another 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Wines available to the UK trade from Maisons Marques et Domaines Ltd and should retail for circa £30pb.

Van Biljon Wines – The Undiscovered Fine Wine Gem in the Heart of the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

This beautiful small boutique farm is situated in the famed Polkadraai Hills region of Stellenbosch, sitting alongside famous neighbours like Reyneke Wines, Raats Family Wines and De Toren. While most of these excellent wines rose to fame for originating in Stellenbosch, more recently, as collectors and connoisseurs have started to scratch a little deeper into the finer details of the individual wards and terroirs of the region, the Polkadraai has risen to new heights of fame globally. Known for its deep fertile soils and well drained decomposed granitic soils and moderating sea breezes off the False Bay lying to the South, the terroir has formed a perfect home to the classic Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

As if the wonderful terroir wasn’t enough, the wines are made by one of the great winemakers of the Cape, Chris Keet, creator of the legendary Cordoba Crescendo 1995 Cape Bordeaux Red that lights up the Cape fine wine auction houses with big R8000+ prices (£400) when bottles occasionally come on the market for sale. Chris is a master with Bordeaux varieties and meticulously crafts an impressive Cape Bordeaux Blend using traditional winemaking techniques combined with modern technology to produce wines with intensity, concentration, balance and structure.

Tasting the Van Biljon 2017 and 2018 and the Keet First Verse 2018 Bordeaux blend with Chris Keet at the winery in March 2022.

I first became acquainted with the Van Biljon CINQ after tasting the 2013 vintage which I rated 93/100 back in October 2016. Subsequent vintages like the 2014 seemed to just get better and better, rating 94+/100 when tasted in October 2018. I sadly missed the epic 2015 vintage which sold out very quickly to an airline group I understand but was thrilled to taste the fabulous 2017 new release again when Julia Van Biljon was over in London recently. This is definitely a wine that flies under the fine wine radar but undoubtedly deserves to be far better know as it stands among the great Bordeaux Blends produced in the Western Cape winelands.

Van Biljon Wines CINQ 2017, WO Stellenbosch, 14.4% Abv.

2.3 g/l RS | 5.8 g/l TA | 3.5 pH

The 2017 CINQ is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, 6% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot and spent 18 months maturing in selected French oak barrels. This is a seductive and enticing Cape Bordeaux blend that utilises all five red Bordeaux varieties to great effect. On the nose there is initially a pronounced sweet cedar and sappy red fruited spiciness from the Cabernet Franc before notes of dried herbs, chai tea, black currant and dusty graphite come to the fore. The well-honed palate shows considerable elegance and harmony with a fine grained textural balance revealing layers of spicy red and black berry fruits, notes of cherry tobacco and a tart, tangy acidity on a long, weightlessly concentrated finish. Stony drying tannins lend a further air of seriousness, structure and age ability on the long sleek finish. An attractive offering that must rank among the finest releases from Chris Keet and the Van Biljon winery to date. Drink this from release or over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

For stock availability, please contact Woodwinters UK for trade allocations.

De Toren Continue to Make Some of South Africa’s Best Cape Bordeaux Blends – Tasting the De Toren Z 2018…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

As I penned the finishing touches to my tasting notes on the De Toren Z 2018, an email from the estate fortuitously popped into my inbox announcing that the highly rated De Toren Z 2017 vintage was about to run out! But fear not! The 2017 might have been the highest rated Z vintage to date, but the 2018 is a more than worthy follow up expression.

The 2018 vintage was much smaller than average. Extreme drought, which some considered the worst in a hundred years, made the growing season particularly difficult. A cold winter saw bouts of damaging frost which reduced yields early in the season. When the summer did come bringing the usual heat, it also brought the drought and water shortages. Although, one advantage of the dry weather was that it helped prevent the spread of vineyard diseases. However, despite the tough conditions and hugely reduced harvest, some very good wines like the De Toren Z were made.

De Toren Z 2018, WO Stellenbosch, 14.72% Abv.

2.5 g/l RS | 5.1 g/l TA | 3.55 pH

A blend of Merlot: 54%, Cabernet Franc: 17%, Cabernet Sauvignon: 12%, Malbec: 12% and Petit Verdot: 5%. Always an expressive and more opulent blend, this De Toren Z 2018 combines the rich, fleshy, exotic plummy characters of Merlot with the more structured, black fruited nuances of prime Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine displays lofty aromatics of raisined black cherries, wet tobacco, damson plums and dusty graphite with a sweet sandalwood kiss. The palate is rich and generous with a well honed balance, a full and broad mouthfeel and seductive notes of mocha-laced blueberry, graphite and vanilla pod spice. This characteristically dark horse will undoubtedly challenge the established thinking that Cabernet Sauvignon must lead. The Merlot driven De Toren Z blend is certainly one of the great revelations of the past decade of South African premium red winemaking delivering pure hedonistic palate pleasure with a right bank Bordeaux philosophy. Drink from release and over the next 8-10+ years. (RRP In UK circa £39pb.)

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Starting 2022 In Style – Reviewing the Sensational New Thelema Estate Rabelais 2019…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Thelema Rabelais red blend originally started out as the prestigious Thelema Cape Winemakers Guild blend before evolving into the Rabelais label with the 2007 vintage, being produced originally from only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. From 2009, Petit Verdot started to replace the Merlot portion and now the blend appears fairly settled at approximately a 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot mix. The Rabelais represents the very best Bordeaux components from the Thelema range where the wines clearly show concentration, polished ripe tannins and undeniable refinement.

As with so many Cape Bordeaux Blends of this quality, the Rabelais cuvee has now earned itself an impressive following, both at home and globally, making the wine increasingly sought after and necessitating tighter and tighter allocations at the estate. If you missed the impressive 2015 or the eye wateringly great 2017, it’s time to track down some of the delicious 2019.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Rabelais 2019, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

The 2019 Thelema Rabelais is another incredibly refined creation being a blend of 90% Simonsberg Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. Since the 2015 vintage, this flagship wine has shifted into a sixth gear and is now hitting some exceptionally high quality notes. Always classical and composed, the aromatics boast notes of perfumed violets, dried herbs, black cherry and seductive hints of crème de cassis with undertones of sweet cedar wood spice, brûléed coffee beans, brown toast and some dusty mineral strands of crushed slate and graphite. The palate is silky soft, predictably sleek and polished and displays impressive textural elegance with fine filigree tannins, fresh acids, subtle complex layers of black currant, cherry cola, capsicum and breakfast espresso. This is another head-turning, eye-opening wine that displays wonderful balance and harmony. Fabulously pure, precise and regal on so many levels. Simply outstanding. Drink from 2024 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)