Chardonnay

Reviewing One of the Most Coveted New Producers in Burgundy – Tasting Through the Full Kei Shiogai 2023 Range of Wines…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Travelling to Burgundy to taste the previous vintage’s creations can be a somewhat tricky affair especially when producers across the region, in the Cotes de Nuits, Cotes de Beaune and the Maconnais all experienced such incredibly difficult vintage conditions in 2024. So, perhaps tasting through their more plentiful 2023 range serves as a timely distraction for a producer. I was very fortunate to be introduced to Japanese young gun Kei Shiogai several years ago and have gratefully been granted access to taste his wines every year from barrel and bottle since his maiden 2020 commercial releases. A relative newcomer to the Burgundy region, Kei is understandably quite protective about his winemaking philosophy, his pristine cellar and his overall privacy. Quite rightly, he prefers to let his wines do the talking.

In complete contrast to 2024, the 2023 harvest will be remembered for a plentiful, abundant harvest with generous yields, ample ripeness, and notable concentration usually commensurate with the quality of the wines’ individual terroir and level of appellation classification. While 2022 saw easy conditions for vignerons across the board, the weather circumstances in 2023 perhaps posed a few more questions, but ultimately yielding energetic, crystalline Chardonnays with a notable minerality and freshness alongside the fruit ripeness, and Pinot Noirs with delightfully sweet strawberry and red cherry-laced berry fruits that display plenty of clarity, a bright translucent purity together with linear fresh acids. Overall, the across-the-board vintage quality for red and white wines was incredibly consistent across villages with excellent balance, moderate alcohols, and elegant fruit purity.

While the 2023 vintage was neither cool and wet like 2021 or hot and dry like 2022, the season was marked by an initial warm, dry winter with a meagre amount of sunshine. The rains returned in March while the months of April and May were bright and sunny but relatively cool. Excellent flowering in May and June with perfect conditions, sealed the requirements for a potentially very generous crop. If June was warm, unseasonally cooler conditions in July and August prolonged the ripening somewhat before several heat spikes arrived in late August and early September to bring the fruit to full ripeness. Some are calling 2023 another solar vintage, or années solaires, but this description perhaps simplifies conditions unnecessarily. 

The Charmots 1er Cru has been in new oak barrels for 25 months when I tasted it again in December 2025. This wine will be bottled and released in 2026. Not to be missed. Could possibly be one of the most exciting red Burgundy releases of 2026?

The general wine merchant consensus is that 2023 is a very generous, fruit forward vintage with joyfully fresh whites that will even appeal to the classicists, and reds that range from lighter-bodied, fresh, and remarkably drinkable examples already through to more structured, riper, denser wines where producers clearly made a conscious effort to coax a little more structure and tension from their wines in light of the potential dangers of dilution from higher yields. 

Being one of the most sought after and collectable producers in Burgundy at the moment undoubtedly carries with it a few added headaches for Kei – from endless new requests for primary first release allocations in new and historical markets to highly inflated secondary market prices that always seem to benefit speculators rather than the producers themself. Nevertheless, fame at this level understandably always comes at a price, but so far, Kei is keeping his head down and focusing (or more like obsessing!) over the purity, precision and focus of his incredibly ethereal, elegant “new style” Burgundies that have captivated the global market.

Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin Village 2023

An enticingly perfumed aromatics bursting with violets and lilac, luscious red berry fruits, red plum, red cherry, pink musk and sweet strawberry confit. Silky, wonderfully fine boned and supple with incredible purity and precision with soft powdery tannins and a crystalline red berry purity, this is signature Kei Shiogai that finishes with a hint of sapidity and spice.  A very pretty wine indeed. Drink from 2025 to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin “Baraques” 2023

The Baraques cuvee shows a deeper, darker, bolder black plum colour in the glass with a broodier aromatics of black cherry, ripe strawberry, and black plum. Inviting notes of saline creme cassis and pink musk follow to the palate that shows a regal finesse and clarity as well as all Kei’s hallmark purity and pinpoint precision. Spectacular translucent fruit purity, weightless silky tannins and a long, intense brambly finish. Quite sublime. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Pommard Poisot 2023

A sleeping giant of a wine packed with dark broody purple and black berry fruits, black cherry, strawberry and saline creme de cassis. Taut and stony on the palate, this shows the power and tension of Pommard with a vein of graphite and limestone minerality, yielding tight grained polished marble tannins, pithy black berry fruits and a chalky dry extract grip on the finish.  A classic “iron fist in a velvet glove” expression. Youthful but already magnificent. Drink from 2026 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes 2023

An intricate floral aromatics with fabulous poise and precision, boasting violets and cherry blossom, creme de cassis, wild strawberry, graphite and piquant mineral spices. The clarity and purity are mesmerising, the light touch intensity and focus simply astounding. No shortage of piercing red and black berry 1er Cru power here, with notable concentration and creamy mouth coating tannins. True Gevrey class on display. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Echezeaux Grand Cru 2023

A broody beast of a wine offering an aromatic depth of Asian spices, graphite, violets, wild strawberry, earthy cured meats and savoury Christmas spices. Full, broad and fully loaded in the mouth, the concentration is rich, glycerol and intricately textural but supremely powerful, distinguished, yet beautifully precise. The Kei Shiogai signature style applied with classical winemaking. Surely a true unicorn wine of the future. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc “Les Famelottes” 2023, 13% Abv.

Located in the commune of Puligny Montrachet, the Les Famelottes shows a beautiful melange of wet limestone, yellow stone fruits, pear and green apple, roasted nuts with delicate dried herb nuances. So supple, soft, and fleshy in the mouth with a generous depth and subtle balance. Really very impressive and also truly delicious making this a good introduction to Kei’s precise winemaking style. Drink from 2025 to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2023

Cool, taut mineral aromatics reveal the true class and majesty of this great appellation. The aromatics are full of pithy lemon peel, pear, waxy green apples and a pronounced limestone mineral vein. The balance and textural precision are second to none, crystalline and beautifully focused, showing purity with immeasurable intensity and effortless elegance. Truly sublime. A great expression of this 1er Cru terroir. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet Village 2023

Taut and broody, this is 100% new oak expression shows no overt oak characters on the nose but merely the faintest complexing hints of dried herbs, lemon grass and lemon herbal tea before more classical notes of grilled nuts, salted pistachios, and dusty limestone minerality. Power packed and pithy, but also quite a taut, classical Puligny expression. Drink from 2025 to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeux 2023

Fabulously cool, pure, and crystalline, this barrel sample reveals incredible wound spring tension, a stony limestone core, lemon rind, lemon grass, and toasted almonds. Precision personified on the palate, the concentration is weightless and harmonious, the finish long, glycerol and delicately savoury and nutty. Wow! Another stunner from Kei. Drink from 2025 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Chassagne Montrachet Village 2023

This Chassagne shows beautifully attractive aromatics of lemon cordial, wild herbs, pithy wet limestone, and yellow stone fruits. Plenty of “gras” or weight on the mid-palate but still deliciously fresh, creamy, and harmonious. This is another delicious addition to the repertoire of great Chassagne whites! Drink from 2025 to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Puligny Montrachet Les Petit Grands Champs 2023

This lieu dit Puligny shows an intense, lemon and lime saline intensity with tangy bright acids. Beautiful balance and harmonious mouthfeel. Also great length with just a kiss of white toast and freshly baked brioche on the long, persistent finish. Drink from 2025 to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023

This fabulous terroir really shines in Kei’s hands, showing liquid minerals, wet limestone, lemon grass, sweet baking herbs, and warm buttered white toast. Plush textured and densely layered with notable dry extract but also a seamlessly creamy texture and an incredibly harmonious, balanced equilibrium on the palate. A decidedly more terroir driven, linear, minerally infused expression of Corton-Charlemagne than some of the more unctuous, buttery examples produced. Undeniably a profound wine and simply drop dead gorgeous. Drink from 2025 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The wines of Kei Shiogai are imported into the UK exclusively by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli to request an allocation.

andrew@musigny.wine

The Capensis Winery Finally Releases Its First Stellenbosch Red – Tasting the Silene Cabernet Sauvignon 2023…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

I have been a big follower and fan of the Capensis Chardonnay wines since their maiden release in 2013. South African winemaker Graham Weerts, based in the USA for many years but now firmly back in Stellenbosch, is of course the driving force behind the label with undoubtedly a firm hand of support for many years from Jackson Family Wines US owner Barbara Banke. 

On one of my last trips to the Cape winelands in 2025, I finally managed to catch up with Graham at the Capensis winery in the hills above Stellenbosch where we toured the vineyards around the tasting room and then shared a lovely sunset braai and several bottles of delicious Capensis Chardonnay – always one of my favourites in South Africa. 

Myself, Michelin Star chef Roger Jones and Graham Weerts in the Capensis vineyards.
The incredible views of Stellenbosch from the Capensis vineyards.

Other than a delicious bottle of Graham Beck Yin 2016 Cap Classique (the sibling of the Yang 2016 special release pair), we also enjoyed an impressively youthful bottle of the Capensis Chardonnay 2013 (94/100 GSMW) that somehow seemed to have shed much of its previous new oak character to reveal a more detailed citrus fruit purity. This 2013 was tasted alongside a current release Capensis Chardonnay 2021 (96/100 GSMW) that was taut, vibrant and coiled like a wound spring as you would expect from this excellent cooler vintage. Then we were treated to a real surprise – the first Stellenbosch red produced at Capensis from Helderberg fruit – Graham’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2023.

Capensis Silene Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

This first red release from Capensis is a classy and classical Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon from the Helderberg that is varietally labelled but also draws on the salt and pepper complexity of a 9% Merlot and a 6% Cabernet Franc addition that was matured in French oak, 30% new, for 14 months before bottling. Picked before the rains, this 2023 displays perfumed aromatics of violets and rose petals, sweet cedar and smoky Christmas spices, lead pencils, red and black berry fruits, and subtle notes of graphite and oystershell. In the mouth there is a deliciously fresh acidity that supports lush, supple sweet tannins and a medium weighted, concentrated black berry fruited finish that slowly recedes to reveal a stony, classically dry mineral finish. An excellent debut effort. Drink from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ending 2025 with a Big Burgundy Bang – Two Epic Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot Tastings in London: Part 2 – China Tang at the Dorchester…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Always one of the absolute highlights of visiting Burgundy, tasting at the Domaine Bizot cellar is undoubtedly one of the most coveted appointments a wine professional can attend. Unfortunately, the slightly later December visit schedule this year did mean that I would miss seeing Jean-Yves Bizot in person at his cellar in Vosne-Romanee when tasting the 2024 wines from barrel as he would already be in Asia on tour. We were expertly guided through the sublime barrel tasting by Jean-Yves’s right-hand man, Victor Mignardot, who would also be in London the following week to help tutor two sensational private client collector tasting dinners featuring some of Jean-Yves’s finest wines. The first of these tastings was in the private room at Chez Bruce, one of London’s most famous Michelin stared restaurants. The second tasting dinner took place in one of my favourite restaurants in the whole of London, China Tang at the Dorchester Hotel on Park Lane.

Originally owned by Sir David Tang until his passing, this Chinese restaurant has come to exemplify top quality food and service over the years. Knowing Jean-Yves own personal penchant for Asian culture and cuisine, it was a fitting venue for the second Domaine Bizot private client tasting dinner. After preparing our palates with a couple of glasses of Champagne Petit & Bajan Promise Brut Grand Cru, a seductive blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir with a 4g/l RS dosage based around the 2019 vintage, we kicked the dinner off in proper style tasting the revelatory maiden release Le Charlemagne 2022 Grand Cru white. For any Domaine Bizot follower, this is certainly a wine that needs no introduction, representing the absolute pinnacle of white Burgundy quality. If I took the liberty to highlight one of my top reds of the year in Part 1, namely the Domaine Bizot Clos de la Bidaude 2023 red, then I would be remiss for not pointing the spotlight on this incredible white that was without doubt my favourite white wine of 2025, having tasted it from barrel and then from bottle three more times.

Domaine Jean Yves Bizot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022

The two specific single vineyards of En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne make up half of this famous appellation, while white grapes grown in seven other vineyards may also be sold as Corton-Charlemagne. As a result there can be a wide divergence in styles between earlier picked south-facing locations and cooler, later picked western slopes around Pernand-Vergelesses. Jean-Yves’s 0.14 hectares of vines are only located in the prestigious Le Charlemagne vineyard and in 2022 produced a meagre two new French oak barrels, or 600 bottles, of this golden Grand Cru nectar. A wonderfully sophisticated wine, it reveals a rich vinous tapestry tightly packed with savoury aromatics of leesy yellow citrus, fresh rain on limestone, wet straw, baking herbs and glacé lemon rind. The concentration on the palate is astonishing – glycerol, piercing, fresh and beautifully crystalline and saline with intense layers of lemon and lime cordial, green apple pastille over an electric laser-like acidity with just a subtle kiss of lemon butter and vanilla pod spice on the finish. An astounding wine of incredible power, focus and precision.

(Wine Safari Score: 100/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Le Charlemagne 2022 was mind blowing the first time I tasted it from barrel and continues to impress with each subsequent tasting. The 2023 vintage was another exceptional wine from a slightly more generous vintage that yielded three barrels. Sadly, just as this astonishing benchmark white Burgundy is gaining its own global cult following, the volumes have cruelly been restricted to only a single barrel in both 2024 and 2025 due to low yields and obsessive fruit selection. 

The dinner tasting line up.

After a brief interlude, the red flights started to be poured by the China Tang sommelier team. As a special treat, Jean-Yves’s Le Clos des Fées ‘100 Phrases Pour Eventails’ Pinot Noir 2023, the fourth release from this IGP Cotes Catalanes project, was poured to illustrate the fluidity and flexibility of Jean-Yves’s winemaking brilliance. From a riper vintage than 2024, the 2023 was sumptuous and generous, fleshy but incredibly silky, pure and precise, finishing with a brambly, damson plum and black berry intensity with a subtle sapidity. (95/100 GSMW) This is a fascinating project in Southwest France and one that is well worth keeping a close eye on if the new 2024 I tasted at the cellar is anything to go by!

For anyone that drinks Jean-Yves’s wines regularly will know, the mantra of “less is more” sits comfortably when tasting both his Domaine Bizot Marsannay Clos du Roy 2023 and his Domaine Bizot Le Chapitre 2022. While the Clos de Roy vineyard was renowned for its quality potential, Jean-Yves has brought his winemaking magic to this appellation and, perhaps with a little help from global warming, has helped elevate this vineyard to a quality level making wines only ever previously seen in the Grand Cru vineyards of the Côte de Nuits.

Myself, Victor Mignardot and China Tang’s Head Sommelier and Wine Buyer Igor Sotric.

Le Chapitre is a regional appellation site, squeezed in between high buildings in the middle of Chenôve whilst Clos du Roy, despite being located in the commune of Chenôve, is a village appellation Marsannay and is the northern continuation of the vineyards around the village of Marsannay. Compared with the lieux-dits sites considered for Premier Cru status in Marsannay, Le Chapitre is just a small 5.5 hectares in size owned by around ten growers including illustrious names like Sylvain Pataille, Laurent Fournier, Domaine Gagey and Drouhin. Always one of my favourites in the Bizot range, the Clos du Roy 2023 is an incredible success for the vintage with a perfumed lift, a textural fluidity, and the most crystalline, finessed finish imaginable (96/100 GSMW). The Le Chapitre too is all about elegance and subtlety, effortless concentration with an earthy, brambly finish – the power of the 2022 vintage making itself felt on the palate (94+/100 GSMW).

For the next flight, we moved back down to Vosne Romanee and Morey St Denis where Domaine Bizot produces several village appellation cuvees. At the first Chez Bruce dinner, Jean-Yves’s Vosne Romanee 2020 proved one of the stars of the night. This time, we were treated to the delightful Domaine Bizot Vosne Romanee Village 2023 vintage, with its pristine and impactful aromatics, lashings of black cherry and raspberry fruits and its beguiling Asian five spice complexity. A benchmark wine within Jean Yves’s range (95+/100 GSMW). Accompanying the Vosne Romanee, we were treated to a repeat showing of the incredible Clos de la Bidaude 2023 Monopole red that continues to seduce collectors globally with its intensity, majestic concentration and fruit purity (98/100 GSMW).

For the grand finale, a surprise Domaine Bizot Echezeaux Grand Cru 2015 was slipped into the lineup to accompany the outstanding Echezeaux 2023. This was quite simply a Grand Cru pairing made in heaven. The 2015 showed incredible depth, power and concentration, fruit ripeness without being overbearing or disrespectful to the appellation’s terroir complexity. Incredibly youthful and harmonious, this wine was indeed a real highlight, showcasing the effortless purity, intensity and precision Jean-Yves has so masterfully perfected (97+/100 GSMW). The Echezeaux 2023 was all charm and elegance, packed with complex red and black berry fruits, whole bunch sapidity and phenolic dry extract, finishing with an alluring minerality on the finish. Another true Bizot star in the making (96+/100 GSMW).

This sensational lineup of iconic Domaine Bizot wines certainly reminded all the private client attendees why they love and covet the red and white Burgundy’s of Jean Yves so much. With last desserts accompanied by the obligatory Jean-Yves sweet wine favourite, the Vin de Constance 2017 from South Africa, the second Domaine Bizot tasting dinner was brought to a close with a few words of thanks from Victor Mignardot and Domaine Bizot’s exclusive UK importer, Andrew Pavli from Musigny Wines.

The Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Musigny Wines. Contact Andrew Pavli to request an allocation.

Andrew@musigny.wine

Creation Wines – Leading the Quality Charge with their Premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs Produced in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge Ward…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 2 Comments

It has become practically a tradition for Caroline Martin from Creation Wines to travel to London to present the new vintages of their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to the who’s who of the UK wine media circle with husband JC Martin normally on a Zoom video link from the cellar in Cape Town. However, this year we were in for a treat with both JC and Caroline in attendance to present the new releases along side a spectacular vertical of back vintages.

Originally hailing from Switzerland, JC Martin together with his South African wife Carolyn (nee Finlayson), bought their original 22 hectares of virgin land in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge and completed their impressive cellar in time for their 2007 harvest. Their Walker Bay estate now encompasses 50-plus hectares of vines planted with over 11 cultivars, but focusing primarily on premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

JC Martin and Caroline Martin in London.

I have spoken for many years about the quality glass ceilings in the South African wine industry. For a long time, Chardonnay tried but just couldn’t quite break through until possibly five years ago, when the industry saw some incredible new releases find a new lease of energy to raise the quality stakes and break the glass ceiling that had been in place for so long. Among these producers were Richard Kershaw, Leeu Passant, Paul Cluver, Uva Mira, Hamilton Russell, Newton Johnson and of course Creation Wines. While Pinot Noir still has a little more work to do to make examples comparable to the very best of Burgundy, I feel confidant, based on my tasting of Creation’s new releases that big fireworks are just around the corner and over the horizon. 

Creation Chardonnay Vertical:

The Creation Chardonnay grapes are whole bunch pressed, inoculated with neutral Champagne yeasts to emphasise purity and encourage a quick and efficient fermentation process. The Glenn’s Chardonnay grapes come from the same vineyard as the Art of Chardonnay but use only wild yeasts for the fermentation process which also helps with a little more natural struck flint reduction character in the finished wine. The Art of Chardonnay cuvee is normally a combination of wild and inoculated yeast portions that are ultimately blended together before bottling.

Creation Reserve Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

Bronzed golden colour, the aromatics speaks with an exotic accent, full of plush ripe yellow fruits, passionfruit, pineapple, and hints of dried guava roll. The entry is crystalline and juicy and vibrant with an expressive natural acidity, tangy orange peel, passionfruit and naartjie fruit concentration. An impressive vintage with heart stopping fruit intensity, a delicate minerality and fabulous length. Drink now to 2034. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

Pale gold in the glass, the Glenn’s Chardonnay reveals flinty, slightly reductive aromatics with hints of limestone, lemon and lime peel, dried herbs, wet straw, tinned pineapple and savoury leesy biscuit nuances. Strikingly taut and linear on the palate, the acids are tangy and mouthwatering showing a finely balanced texture and concentration but certainly not lacking any generosity. A steely fresh finish leaves you ready for another sip. A really beautiful expression of premium cool climate Chardonnay.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

A beautifully precise expression with aromatics brimming with sweet passionfruit, pineapple, dried herbs, thyme, and tangerine peel. The focus and precision is impressive with a tangy bright acidity, a piercing mouthwatering yellow citrus fruit concentration with a delightful spicy, vanilla pod and granadilla finish. A wine with such presence and pedigree.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

The aromatics show a pronounced flinty reductive note over wet stone minerality, crushed limestone, white citrus pith and green pear. There is a real energy and vivacity magnified by a piercing salinity that raises the perception of the tart acidity and linearity. There is a fine mid palate concentration and polished phenolics, making for a taut, focused tightly wound wine.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Chardonnay 2018, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

Hints of reduction with subtle tertiary notes revealing fennel root, lanolin, curry leaf, vanilla pod and wet straw bales. There are layers of waxy citrus, pineapple, waxy green apples, and pear with savoury notes, a crystalline freshness, acid linearity, and a very fine tension that’s holding the palate together very nicely.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Pinot Noir Vertical:

A very natural expression with only the whole bunch portion manipulated during extraction. 100% Whole bunch used in 2021, 60% in 2022 and 50% in 2023. The higher the portion, the lower the floral aromatics on the wines tend to be according to JC.

Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

A young embryonic Pinot Noir packed full of cinnamon and clove aromatics over bramble berry, wild strawberry and smoky graphite spice. The palate shows pithy rasping tension, salinity and limestone minerality, phenolic spice, dried herbs, over red cranberry, red currant and red apple spice. A wine looking forward to 10+ years of age ability.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

The find expression showing delicious spicy bramble berry aromatics with wild strawberry, damson plum over savoury cured meat nuances. The whole bunch portion is evident, flaunting its spicy sapidity but well balanced by a red and black berry fruit length. Ready to go now… or drink over the next 5 to 8 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

With a 100% wholebunch used, the spicy sapidity is surprisingly well integrated already with red and black berry fruits, earthy red currant and spicy fig and quince nuances. The palate shows spice and tension, a mineral texture and fine grained mineral stony tannins delicately balanced by savoury red and black fruits and a real whole bunch complexity.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Flight 1:

Creation Ridge Chardonnay 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge

The Ridge used to be called the Reserve range. Fermented with DV10 Champagne yeasts, using 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel adding elegance and texture with no batonnage. The aromatics are beautifully floral and perfumed with white blossom, honeysuckle and lemon verbena. Texturally very fine and creamy but with zippy nervy underlying acids with bright lemon and lime peel notes and a very gentle fleshy finish with a distinct vein of stony minerality raising its head. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Chardonnay 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge

Oldest block that is over 22 years old now. Aiming for a very steady, consistent stylistic steer, the 2024 Art show slightly more restraint and classism, white blossom, crushed granite, sweet green baking herbs and lemon herbal tea nuances. The palate is gently smoky and mineral with subtle savoury leesy hints over green apple, lemon and yellow grapefruit concentration before a real kick of wet stone minerality on the dry, rasping fresh finish. Beautiful tension and restraint that will slowly unfurl over the coming years. Drink 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge

Sourced from the same block of grapes as the Art of Chardonnay, this wild ferment expression really shines in a cool, taut mineral driven vintage like 2024. The aromatics show a little more honied richness with honeysuckle, lemon blossom, oatmeal and lemon biscuit notes that combined with green herbs and a subtle bay leaf spice. The wine shows a beautiful texture, full and fleshy mouthfeel with crisp sour mouthwatering acids and a creamy, honied savoury finish. A wine with superb complexity. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

Pale gold in the glass, the Glenn’s Chardonnay reveals flinty, slightly reductive aromatics with hints of limestone, lemon and lime peel, dried herbs, wet straw, tinned pineapple and savoury leesy biscuit nuances. Strikingly taut and linear on the palate, the acids are tangy and mouthwatering showing a finely balanced texture and concentration but certainly not lacking any generosity. A steely fresh finish leaves you ready for another sip. A really beautiful expression of premium cool climate Chardonnay.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

Shows a very complex nose with earthy, savoury slightly wild aromatics with hints of root veg, dried herbs, fennel root, waxy lemon, grapefruit marmalade. The palate shows impressive depth and breadth, an incredibly creamy gently oaky salted caramel length that never overwhelms but simply lingers on the palate. Still an inner tension in the wine but drinking beautifully now. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

The aromatics show complex savoury leesy notes that melt away into white blossom, waxy lemon peel, sweet herbs green apples and subtle stony mineral nuances. The palate is sleek, dense and fleshy, the acids fresh but incredibly well integrated, balanced with the citrus fruit flesh and concentration. Powerful, harmonious but intense and tangy. Drink now to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Art of Chardonnay 2020, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13.5% Abv.

A beautifully elegant wine that is showing incredibly well, as it should as the Platter White Wine of the Year. Gently smoky and savoury and complex with crushed gravel and smoky reductive flinty notes. The palate is raspingly mineral and stony, underpinned by pithy lemon and grapefruit nuances with a restrained, herby, dry finish. Super taut, compact and seriously youthful. Astonishing wine. Drink now to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Flight 2: Pinot Noirs 

Creation Art of Pinot Noir 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13% Abv.

From a Southeast facing block, 50-60% whole bunches are used on the Art with a gentle wetting of the cap once or twice a day. Malolactic in barrel, 30% new, released after approximately 2 years. The aromatics shows incredible intensity with piercing aromatics of black cherry, black berry and wild strawberry. The fruit berry purity follows to the palate but is tempered by a fresh, pure mineral palate with real precision and stony length. Superb fine grained texture, harmonious texture with a weightless concentration on the finish. Drink now to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Creation Emma’s Pinot Noir 2024, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 13% Abv.

A selection from a different block more West facing than the Art of Pinot Noir, that’s also more tannic so only 30% whole bunch is used. The aromatics are luxurious and deep, slightly less exotic and perfumed than the Art, which JC puts down to the lower whole bunch portion. The palate shows creamy chalky depth, black cherry, black raspberry, salty kelp notes and a deep, tense, broody power packed depth laced with incredibly stony minerality on the finish. Simply stunning and super serious expression. Drink 2026 to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Creation Wines are imported into the UK by Hallgarten Wines.

From the Fine Wine Safari Cellar – Part 4: Donovan Rall’s White Blend 2012 Revisited…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

I first met Donovan Rall at the Cape White Blend Conference in 2009 at Forest 44 in Stellenbosch where Ian Naude had assembled 80+ of South Africa’s greatest winemakers to listen to Eben Sadie, Peter Fischer and myself, talk about the farming, production, and marketing of world class white blends. During one of the intermissions, this giant Viking came up to me and introduced himself. Donovan had worked for several months in London with an ex-colleague of mine at the Harvey Nichols department store fine wine section in Knightsbridge, London. 

Offering me two bottles of his by then long sold-out maiden release Rall White Blend, he asked me to drink one and let him know what I thought, and also if I could please take the other bottle back to London for his old colleague to enjoy, which I of course obliged. The maiden vintage turned out to be the first of three consecutive 5 Star Platter Guide wines that he eventually went on to produce. Donovan’s white blend became a cult wine over a handful of vintages and is still today established as one of the best on the market, as was confirmed by this vintage 2012.

Donovan Rall pouring his wines in London.

Rall White Blend 2012, WO Coastal Origin, 14.5% Abv.

The second of three bottles I found in my cellar, this bottle represents an even fresher and more vibrant expression of this flagship white blend from Donovan Rall than previous bottles. A nine barrel blend of Chenin Blanc, Verdelho, Chardonnay and Viognier, the aromatics are focused, crisp, cool and incredibly vital with hints of buttered popcorn, lemon biscuits, and savoury leesy notes before a crushed Granite, sweet quince and yellow orchard fruit complexity emerges. Despite the 14.5% alcohol, the palate is fresh, pure and intense with a tangy layering of orange peel, passion fruit, honeycomb, guava roll and an enticing, piercing liquid minerality on the finish. An astonishing bottle with harmony and textural finesse, that goes a long way in explaining why top Cape White Blends are such a successful global phenomenon! 

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW) 

Kei Shiogai Stuns Burgundy Collectors with His Phenomenal New Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023 Release…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Burgundy is full of talented wine makers, but every now and then, a new name comes along almost out of the blue, with incredible flair – this is Kei Shiogai – a superstar in the making. Originally from Japan, Kei left Tokyo to travel to New Zealand as he was so interested in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. After a short spell there, he was strongly encouraged by locals to pursue his passion in the true home of these varieties – Burgundy – where studied viticulture and vinification in Beaune and Dijon.

Kei arrived in Burgundy and proceeded to work with several top producers including Philippe Pacalet, Domaine Rousseau and Domaine Roulot. Indeed, his earlier vintages in Beaune were produced while he was still working at Domaine Roulot. Even with his 2020 vintage, Kei started to turn heads and draw attention to his wines with their incredible elegance and purity of fruit produced from modest “village level” sites. But it is of course with fruit sourced from the more premium Grand Cru sites that Kei has really started to redefine his own stylistic talents. With limited stocks due to arrive in the UK shortly, it seemed the perfect moment to review his second Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru release. 

Kei Shiogai Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023, Burgundy

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Kei Shiogai is another exceptional expression with incredible attention to detail, showing aromas of limestone minerality, white flowers, pear fruits, lemon grass, sweet herbs, and buttered white toast nuances. On the palate the wine is taut yet elegantly textured and densely layered with a notable chalky dry extract but also seamlessly creamy, harmonious, and balanced. A decidedly more serious terroir driven, linear, minerally infused expression of Corton-Charlemagne than some of the more buttery mainstream examples on the market. Undeniably profound and a real high point in Kei’s 2023 white range. Drink from 2025 to 2035+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96-97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Kei Shiogai wine are available on allocation from his exclusive UK importer, Musigny Wines. Contact: Andrew@musigny.wine

The 2025 Cape Winemakers Guild Auction Wines Reviewed – Scores at the Doors…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

It’s that time of year again! Tasting the unique micro expressions from some of South Africa’s top producers is no easy task. It used to be a real expose of some really unique wine styles of the ever evolving South African wine industry, but now, it feels like producers are evolving, maturing, and certainly playing it a little safer. Is that a bad thing? No, not at all!

Speaking to tasters, collectors (at the tasting) and producers, the feeling was very much that ALL wines were impressive and worthy of praise. But, many did feel that the innovation had been slightly dialled down in the name of premiumisation and in order to offer the wider global fine wine market a unique selection of wines that can be offered to incredibly fussy international merchants and collectors in a congested fine wine market place – wines that can’t be compared and contrasted to anything already available on the market.

Some will reflect on these wines and feel that they are not sufficiently “different” from the regular cuvées offered on the commercial market, but one has to bare in mind that many of the buyers engaging in the CWG auction are not in a viable position to access workable / commercial quantities of wines from these top producers now that European allocations have become so tightly controlled and limited. The CWG breaks that mould and expands the market for South African fine wine, bringing some incredibly high quality wines to a wider, new generation of collectors and connoisseurs. That alone should surely be celebrated. I for one remain a MASSIVE fan of the CWG concept and auction process and encourage enthusiasts to buy with confidence whether bidding directly or buying through a merchant channel like Bordeaux Index.

Scores at the doors…

AA Badenhorst Family Wines ‘Out Of The Strong Comes Forth Freshness’ Carignan 2024 – 93+/100

The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co. Saldanha Pale Dry SEA, SALT, SAND AND WIND N.V. – 95/100

Ataraxia ‘Sympathy For The Pinot’ Pinot Noir 2024 – 94/100

Ataraxia Under The Gavel Chardonnay 2024 – 95/100

Bartho Eksteen Wine Estate Fluister Landgoed Pinot Noir 2023 – 93/100

Bartho Eksteen Wine Estate Vloekskoot Sauvignon Blanc – Op Hout 2024 – 92+/100

Beaumont Family Wines Arturo’s Pinotage 2023 – 94/100

Beeslaar Wines CWG Pinotage 2023 – 96/100

Boschkloof CWG Epilogue Syrah 2023 – 97+/100

Boschkloof CWG Conclusion 2023 – 97/100

Cederberg Black Slate Shiraz 2023 – 93+/100

David & Nadia Veiling Chenin blanc 2024 – 96+/100

De Grendel Wines Op Die Berg Pinot Noir 2023 – 93+/100

De Trafford Chenin Blanc S16 2024 – 96/100

Delaire Graff Estate Banghoek Cabernet Sauvignon – Cabernet Franc 2022 – 94+/100

Dewaldt Heyns Family Wines CWG Chenin Blanc Reserve 2024 – 95/100

Dewaldt Heyns Family Wines Saailand Shiraz 2022 – 94/100

Ernie Els Wines CWG 2022 – 94/100

Frans K. Smit Lamed 2021 – 94/100

Graham Beck CWG Extra Brut Chardonnay Pinot Noir Cap Classique 2018 – 94/100

Graham Beck CWG Extra Brut Chardonnay Pinot Noir Cap Classique 2019 – 95/100

Jordan Wine Estate CWG Chardonnay 2024 – 94/100

Kershaw Wines Ziggurat Chardonnay 2024 – 95+/100

Kershaw Wines Vertiginous Pinot Noir 2023 – 94/100

Le Riche CWG Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 – 97/100

Lismore Estate Vineyards Valkyrie Chardonnay 2024 – 95+/100

Lismore Estate Vineyards The Sheltering Sky Syrah 2023 – 97/100

Luddite Wines Square Dog Grenache 2024 – 94/100

Miles Mossop Wines Maximilian 2018 – 94+/100

Adi Badenhorst in London for the CWG trade tastings.

Miles Mossop Wines Maximilian 2019 – 95/100

Mullineux ‘The Gris’ Old Vine Sémillon 2024 – 98/100

Neil Ellis Wines Amper Bo Tempranillo 2021 – 92+/100

Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Sandford Chardonnay 2023 – 96/100

Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Windansea Pinot Noir 2023 – 95+/100

Paul Clüver Family Wines The Wagon Trail Chardonnay 2024 – 95+/100

Raats Family Wines Fountain Terroir Specific Chenin Blanc 2024 – 96/100

Raats Family Wines Stella Nova Cabernet Franc 2021 – 95/100

Rall Wines Noa Syrah 2023 – 98/100

Rock of Eye CWG Auction Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 – 94/100

Savage Wines Auction Syrah 2023 – 97/100

Silverthorn Wines ‘Mad As The Mist And Snow’ Brut Nature Cap Classique 2019 – 95/100

Solo Wines Auction Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 – 93/100

Storm Wines Bokkeveld Shale Pinot Noir 2023 – 96/100

Storm Wines Bokkeveld Shale Chardonnay 2023 – 96/100

Strydom Family Wines The Game Changer Cabernet Franc – Merlot 2021 – 94/100

Strydom Family Wines Paradigm 2022 – 95/100

Warwick Auction Cabernet Franc – Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 – 93+/100

Thorne & Daughters Sand Castles 2024 – 96+/100

Domaine Anne Parent Releases an Impressive Line-Up of En-primeur Burgundy 2023 Wines… 

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Domaine Parent has long been a leading producer of premium wines in Burgundy. With a history going back many generations, Etienne Parent was rumoured to have sold wine to Thomas Jefferson back in 1787. Moving to the modern era, Domaine Parent is recognised as one of the first growers to sell their production in bottle rather than in bulk. Now run by 12th generation custodian Anne Parent, the domaine continues to produce some of the most eye-catching wines in Burgundy and specifically in Pommard.

Anne Parent has also been a trailblazer in biodynamics and a real force for strict vineyard management. Hence, the domaine has managed to stay very much at the top of the tree in the jostling for position in the village hierarchy. Her supreme confidence has led to the wines having an assertiveness, yet a true Burgundian opulence that is hard to resist. The wines are silky and plush – you really can finish a bottle with ease. From the everyday Bourgogne Pinot Noir to the mesmerising Crus of Pommard, all are hand-crafted with care and attention to detail.

The Parent label is instantly recognisable throughout the upper quality echelons of Burgundy, and the family is rightly proud of their hard-earned global reputation. In a competitive fine wine world where so many domaines have taken their eye off the ball, Anne has kept her love of the vineyard, her family history and future very much close to her. Part of this long-term planning has seen Anne bring her niece Constance Fages-Parent into the running and marketing of the domaine’s wines as preparations are slowly put in place for the next chapter in the history of this famous Burgundy winery.

Constance and Anne Parent

I recently travelled to see Anne and Constance in Burgundy to taste a selection of the newly released 2023 wines. Speaking to Anne about the new releases, she confirmed… “2023 was a generous vintage with great quality at the domaine. Perhaps not quite the gravitas of the exceptional 2022 vintage, but the wines are marked with beautiful fruit purity and opulence with accessibility.”  

Tasting the 2023 wines with owner Anne Parent

The 2023 growing season brought both challenges and rewards: after a cool, rainy July, a late heatwave in August and early September ensured optimal ripeness. Harvest began in mid-September, with yields around 46–48 hl/ha and moderate alcohol levels (12.5–13.2%). Vinification was deliberately gentle, with reduced punching down and delicate extraction, restrained use of new oak, and a focus on preserving fruit purity above all.

Burgundy 2023 En-primeur Notes:

Domaine Anne Parent Monthelie Blanc 2023

Made from an AOC that is primarily 90% red / 10% white, this 2023 was picked early to retain acidity and vinified with 35% new French oak. The wine shows complex aromatics with leesy biscuit notes, a supple fleshy breadth with savoury waxy lemons and a white toast and oatmeal complexity on the finish. Really delicious. Drink from 2026 to 2034.

(Wine Safari Score: 91-92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Corton Grand Cru 2023

100% new French oak used with no batonnage. Incredibly taut, mineral and stony with limestone and struck flint over zesty lemon and lime fruits, tart green apple and a beautifully supple, fleshy breadth with well-integrated acids and a pronounced fruit concentration on the finish. Understated power hiding under the minerality and terroir veil. Drink from 2026 to 2036.

(Wine Safari Score: 93-94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Bourgogne Cote d’Or 2023

All fruit was destemmed and aged in older oak. Very intense perfumed aromatics bursting with life, boasting sweet violets, rose petals and luscious layers of raspberry and black cherry. The palate shows a fine textural breadth and equilibrium, finely balancing forest berry fruits, strawberry compote and cool, creamy mineral tannins. A truly classy Bourgogne. Drink from 2026 to 2032.

(Wine Safari Score: 90-91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Bourgogne Selection Pomone 2023

100% destemmed fruit with slightly longer maceration on skins in larger 600 litre barrels. The resulting wine reveals deeper and darker aromatics laced with black cherry, damson plum and exotic cherry kirsch liquor notes. Beautifully dense and creamy texture with extra depth and opulence, plushness and mouth coating concentration. Lovely intricacy and complexity in an accessible style. Drink from 2026 to 2034+.

(Wine Safari Score: 91-92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Ladoix 2023

The aromatics show a beautiful melange of red and black berry fruits with intricate notes of dried herbs, potpourri and rose petals, gun-smoke and limestone minerality. Broad and beautifully dark fruited on the palate with a creamy black cherry compote concentration, plush fleshy tannins and a broad, comforting, reassuring power. Ladoix over performs once again. Drink from 2026 to 2036.

(Wine Safari Score: 91-92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Chaponnieres 2023

From Pinot Noir grown on brown and red clay soils that offers a more generous expression. Dark and alluring aromatics of black cherry, kirsch liquor and damson plum with an exotic sloe berry hint. The palate shows a beautiful creamy breadth and understated power with an impressive depth, powdery tannins and tangy freshness. Understated power combined with a little Pommard intrigue and intensity. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92-93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2023

40% whole bunch used with 50% new French oak from fruit grown on a lighter, finer grain of clay soils without much depth. Yields a fabulously fragrant expression bursting with life, packed full of perfumed violets, creme de cassis, black cherry and blueberry compote. The chalky candied pink musk nuances make this an incredible complex and compelling offering with seamless limestone tannins and a fantastic intense finish. A truly elegant Pommard classic. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93-94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Domaine Anne Parent Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes 2023

From Pinot Noir grown on deep limestone soils on the hill of Corton, just above Les Bressandes. The wine is rich and expressive, full of ripe brûléed fruits, black cherries and a bramble berry savoury depth. Sleek and supple in the mouth, there is a polished accessibility, light touch elegance, bright racy acids and a long, distinguished, concentrated finish. Very classy indeed. Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93-95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Domaine Anne Parent wines are imported into the UK by Musigny Wines. The 2023 En-primeur releases are currently being offered in September 2025 by Musigny Wines. Email andrew@musigny.wine to request a 2023 EP offer and discuss an allocation.

Luke O’Cuinneagain On a Mission to Make Vergelegen Great Again – Tasting a Selection of New and Current Releases from this Historical Cape Icon Estate…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Vergelegen Estate has to rank as one of the most beautiful and historical wine estates in the fairest Cape. Established in 1700, it once stood as an iconic 3,200-hectare property just a stone’s throw away from the icy False Bay and the beach side hamlet of Somerset West. It was Willem Adriaan, the son of the famous Simon van der Stel, who first settled at Vergelegen. Over the centuries, the property has seen various ownership before the estate was sold to the famous industrialist Barlow family in 1941. Roll forward to 1987 when the estate was sold to mining giant, Anglo-American Corporation, being incorporated under their Amfarms division.

Anglo American initially hired Martin Meinert as their winemaker and planted 100 hectares of vines on the property, opening their impressive winery in 1992. Martin Meinert left Vergelegen in 1997 and was replaced by the legendary André van Rensburg in 1998. Andre helped re-establish Vergelegen as one of the great wineries of the Cape, becoming famous for championing Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, singularly and in blends, as well as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cape Bordeaux blends.

On Andre’s retirement in 2021, Luke O’Cuinneagain was hired from Glenelly Estate to fill the fairly sizable shoes and reputation left behind by André. I have caught up with Luke in London several times in the past months, most recently at Tim Atkin MW’s Best of South Africa Tasting in May 2025. The below notes act as merely a snapshot of the ongoing progress currently being made at the estate.

Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

Bright and perfumed, full of white blossom, gooseberries, green apple and white citrus with a gentle savoury, leesy core. Plush, elegant, and seamlessly textural with creamy crystalline flavours of white peach, green apple and spicy mint leaf and dried herbs on the long finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Estate White 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

A delicious blend of 56% Semillon and 44% Sauvignon Blanc displays a delicately savoury earthy aromatics with hints of apple puree, fresh fennel root, smoky dried herbs, butter and lanolin. Wonderfully taut, pure, chiselled and precise on the palate with a liquid minerality, a tight fresh frame, beautiful clarity and a spicy white peach and pithy yellow citrus finish. Lovely focus and intensity. Very serious indeed.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Chardonnay Reserve 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

Partial malolactic fermentation employed using 19% new French oak for circa 10 months. 7% portion aged in stainless steel that is then back blended. Natural and inoculated yeasts used. Aromatic nose with hints of creme brûlée, custard cream, and caramelised citrus with hints of apple puree, dried herbs, grilled nuts and salted pistachios. Seamless and elegant, very fine and textural, this is showing great potential already.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Rich plummy aromatics are packed with black currant, chocolate praline, and a delicately sappy, leafy spice kissed by vanilla pod. The texture is wonderfully plush and creamy, deliciously approachable and generous boasting sweet fleshy tannins and a long, long plush finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Merlot Reserve 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Quite a classical restrained broody aromatics with subtle hints of red and black currant, dried herbs, and a wet stone minerality. The palate is plush and broad with supple creamy silky tannins revealing a fine accessible freshness and vibrant fruit intensity from a reduced time of 8 months in French oak barrel. Impressive for a single cultivar Merlot.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This warm dry vintage shows attractive aromatics of intense sweet black currant, sappy cedar, graphite and sweet cherry pipe tobacco. Fabulously attractive expression with an earthy savoury palate with some notes of molasses, damson plum, graphite and black currant compote on the finish.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Generally more classical and restrained with an altogether broodier mineral expression, showing black currants, stewed plum, and a saline oyster shell maritime precision. The palate follows with a deliciously vibrant acidity beautifully integrated into a soft textured black cherry fruited intensity. True to the vintage, a wine with plenty focus and class.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Estate Red 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot shows a fine complex melange of rich black and earthy red berry fruit flavours, freshly tilled earth, plum compote, and accessible saline cassis and stony graphite intensity. Texturally generous, creamy and soft textured, this is a powerful expression that finishes with a long, stony, restrained minerality. Very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen Estate Red 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Delightfully dense and dark fruited, there is a broody depth to the wine revealed through black fruited mineral aromatics, crushed granite, graphite, with an underlying teasing hint of sweet cedar and sappy sandalwood. Impressively cool, elegant and weightlessly concentrated, the balance is exceptional with a very fine integrated acidity but an incredibly understated complexity. Beautiful.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen V 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 13% Merlot, and 12% Cabernet Franc. Cool, dark, and broody with aromatics showing subtle hints of blueberry, black currant, wet earth and damson plum. Sleek and silky, the palate is very fine and pin point pure with satin-like chalky tannins and a powdery, salty cassis finish. A very classy and understated wine with true pedigree.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen V 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Cool sleek and restrained with a dusty granitic elegance over some delicate aromatics of blueberry, purple fruits, earthy cassis and a notable iodine intensity. The palate texture is taut and mineral, tightly strung with a spicy mineral intensity, cool stony graphite hints, and a subtle smoky finish. Beautiful balance, purity, and poise.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vergelegen V 2019, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

A fine, dark, sumptuous earthy black fruited wine with hints of brûléed coffee beans, earthy black currant, tannery leather, black cherry and cedar spice. The power, depth and muscle of the 2019 vintage are laid bare for all to experience. Another very serious offering from the estate.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Vergelegen Estate wines are imported into the UK and distributed by Seckford Agencies.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Reveal Two Exciting New Releases – Tasting their Sophisticated Reserve Merlot 2022 and Chardonnay 2023…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

In an age before the Young Guns and Swartland Rhone Rangers, the region of Stellenbosch was king apparent. Seen as the most premium of wine regions close to Cape Town, Stellenbosch was also the historical home of some of the earliest land grants and established wine estates once you moved beyond the limits of the Constantia Valley. While the fortunes of the Stellenbosch region and its top producers may have ebbed and flowed over the decades, the mid to late 1990’s definitely marked the last high-water mark for many of the region’s top producers. One name that was and still remains synonymous with top quality wine production is Thelema Mountain Vineyards, located next to Tokara Estate and just on the other side of the valley from Delaire-Graff.

The famed Thelema Merlot Reserve.

The past successes and established fame of Thelema might have been slightly overshadowed by the advent of the new wave of Young Gun producers, but looking at the estate today, the Thelema Estate is once again producing some of the best quality wines in Stellenbosch. With the global spotlight well and truly back on Stellenbosch internationally, now is the time for its producers to reassert the premium winemaking proposition the region is so blessed to possess.

The Thelema Chardonnay 2023 is one of the top Stellenbosch expressions on the market.

Many producers have put up their hand to lead the charge and Thelema is most definitely one of them. With several new red and white Thelema releases about to hit the market, I took a look at two of their true classics… their Chardonnay 2023 and their Merlot Reserve 2022. Reviews on the Rabelais 2022 and The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 to follow soon.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Chardonnay 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

Made from vines planted in 1989, 2000 and 2009 on decomposed granitic Hutton soils using clones CY3 and CY5, the wine was fermented and matured in 228 litre French oak barrels for 10 months, around 35% new oak with the balance all in multiple passage barrels. This crystalline 2023 Thelema Chardonnay simply shimmers in the glass with a canary yellow pale gold and just the faintest of green tinges on the rim. The aromatics are delightfully enticing, offering a deliciously complex bouquet of lemon blossom, lime peel, tangerine, pithy white citrus, green apple rock candy and delicately savoury biscuit notes that combine seamlessly with a stony granitic hint of reduction. On the palate, the incredibly pithy, mineral, bitter lemon and lime cordial character is seriously mouthwatering with an underlying wet stone minerality, a classically taut steely mouthfeel and a long, bracingly fresh drying finish. This is a seriously grown-up Burgundian-styled expression of Chardonnay showing pinpoint purity combined with a pronounced saline, mouth-watering persistence. I simply love it! Drink on release and over the next 5 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

5.1 g/l TA | 3.5pH

The Thelema Reserve Merlot is aged for 18 months in 55% new French oak barrels and always offers up that extra bit of complexity and depth that is so often lacking on Merlots in the Cape. The vines, planted in 1988 and 2000 are in the prime of their life and confidently offer up a perfumed aromatics of oregano and thyme herbs, potpourri, and mint leaf before richer, more opulent notes of freshly baked cherry crumble, caramelized red plums and earthy black currant emerge from the glass. Plenty of youthful energy abounds, with the sweet sappy cedar and delicately toasted vanilla pod oak spices leading your palate down a path of seduction, where fruit purity is paramount and the soft, silky, fine-grained mineral tannins are neatly hemmed in by bright, integrated, refined acids and tangy red cherry and macerated strawberry pastille fruits. This is a wine of balance and elegance with its own unique sense of supple, understated intensity and textural harmony. This is already an absolute joy to drink now but hold on to your hat as this ‘Reserve’ beauty will shift gears in 3 to 5 years’ time and offer up an altogether more succulent, complex expression. 

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Thelema wines are available to the trade in the UK from Enotria & Coe.