The viticultural scene of Bordeaux is an ever-evolving landscape with new boutique chateaux blossoming out of older historical sites, many within appellations that are slowly but surely rising in prominence as greater technology and knowhow is applied in new and unique ways to differing terroirs that are now being rediscovered, being capable of producing some exceptional classical Bordeaux reds and whites. One such boutique winery is Chateau de Malherbes, located in the Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux appellation that was historically incorporated into the Bordeaux Cotes group of appellations under the Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux regional umbrella.
Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux is now climbing in prestige and significance as quality focused pioneering boutique chateaux like Chateau de Malherbes slowly but surely focus on growing exceptional quality Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc on the varied soils of the plateau that rises up from the Garonne River, offering a variety of favourable terroirs situated on gravelly or calcareous terrain where clay predominates, making the vineyard sites perfectly suited to growing premium Merlot grapes.
More uniquely, Chateau de Malherbes is a leader in redefining the wider “Bordeaux wine experience” producing not only exciting premium wines but also offering visitors, customers, and merchants a unique winery experience involving not only approachable immersive wine tourism but also a more educational involvement, something Bordeaux chateaux have long been criticised for neglecting in the past.
With the Chateau de Malherbes winery project only coming to fruition as recently as 2014, co-owner Julia Lindholm Bereshchanskaya has focused on reshaping the winery’s brand image, wine tourism offering, gastronomy, and vision of excellence, while wine director Christophe Bedouet, who has been involved with the project since its inception in 2014, focuses on managing a skilled team of viticultural and oenological staff to produce a vibrant, quality focused range of chateau wines. Having worked in the USA for many years, Christophe brings a modern, forward-looking outlook to this boutique chateau where the winemaking team focuses on producing quality wines that showcase the finest elements of the estate’s terroir.
I first visited this impressive modern winery in September 2023 just as the harvest was starting to come in and was seriously impressed by not only the high-tech cellar and its beautiful surrounding vineyard scenery, but also by the quality of wines being produced from this less internationally lauded region. I recently took the opportunity to retaste several of the chateau’s current releases available to the market and was suitably impressed by what I tasted.
Chateau de Malherbes 2018, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 14% Abv.
The 2018 Malherbes is a seductive blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc that was aged in a selection of new and older French oak barrels for 12 months. In the glass, this youthful blend is deep, dark, and opaque retaining a garnet-purple hue. One sniff of the perfumed aromatics suggests this is indeed a serious effort, with an expressive bouquet of pressed violets, sweet oak spices, cinnamon stick, plum liquor, crème de cassis, black cherry compote and subtle hints of mulberry, crushed rocks and a delicate but alluring vanilla pod dusting. The palate is ripe yet beautifully poised, tight grained but reassuringly giving after some time in the glass, where more textured layers of earthy black currant, tilled earth, salty black liquorice and baked black berries resonate across a long, fresh tangy finish. Powerful in essence, but also impressively supple and textured offering well managed creamy tannins that combine with impressive oak integration. Tasted seven years from vintage, this wine is still approaching its peak and whilst offering a depth of drinking pleasure now, this wine will reward another 5 to 6+ years of further cellaring.
(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau de Malherbes 2016, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 14.5% Abv.
The reputation of this vintage precedes any wine release and this impressive 2016 is a blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, with the components aged in new and aged French oak barriques for 12 months. Sourced from the best fruit of this 12-hectare estate on gravel and clay limestone soils, the aromatics burst out the glass with a rich, ripe expressive array of black berry, black plums, and savoury black cherry notes before hints of chargrilled meats, tilled earth, graphite and charcoal embers add to the complexity. True to the characterful and established quality of the vintage, the concentration is notable with rich intense black berry compote nuances that combine with black liquorice, toasted oak, crème de cassis and a long, textured savoury length embellished by hints of sweet cherry tobacco and vanilla pod spice. A dense, compact wine with plenty of dry extract, creamy soft spicy tannins but also an energetic freshness and polished mouthfeel. A serious wine that really does open up with decanting to reveal a quite compelling personality. Drink now to 2034+.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Chateau de Malherbes Grand Vin 2015, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 14.5% Abv.
This impressive Grand Vin from the Chateau de Malherbes is a blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc that was aged for 18 months in specially selected new oak barrels from premium coopers Radoux and Seguin Moreau. On the nose, this opulent 2015 shows an impressively lifted and intricately perfumed aromatics brimming with violets and white blossom, black cherries, ripe blueberries and black currant nuances. The palate weight is sleek and sophisticated, supple, and elegant with a weightless concentration of black and blueberry fruits, earthy red currants, and tangy fresh mulberry notes. The classy oaking is beautifully integrated, melting into the concentrated berry fruits before hints of graphite, bitter cocoa, and pithy black berry compote shine on the finish. A beautifully classy wine that really shows the true pedigree of this boutique estate’s terroir. Drink now to 2038+.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Chateau de Malherbes wines are available to merchants direct from the Chateau. Please contact Christophe Bedouet for current vintage availability and ex-cellar pricing.
vignoble@chateaudemalherbes.fr