Tasting the new releases of Restless River’s Estate wines, it is fascinating to witness the slow and calculated evolution of this beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde winery. The exploratory, experimental “pushing the boundaries” mood music has shifted subtly to a far more confident, serious, assured market positioning. Correspondingly, in the wider market place, both locally in South Africa and internationally, Restless River has entered a new phase of consolidating the quality and reputational branding Craig and Anne have worked so hard and conscientiously to establish since their maiden releases over a decade ago.

Part of this new phase of range consolidation has seen a change of distribution in the UK market as well as the launch of two “entry level” Restless River Estate cuvées to help introduce a new segment of wine consumers to the vinous wonders of the larger Restless River brand ethos.

In true Craig Wessels style, no corners have been cut with these two new wines, both of which continue the authentic style and quality you’d expect from a premium estate and should rank among the most exciting new releases for consumers from the Cape Winelands in recent years. Watch out for a third new “entry level” red wine, a younger vine Cabernet Sauvignon that will be hitting the market later in the year.

Restless River Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.

It’s incredibly difficult to engage completely unbiasedly in a first tasting of this new ‘young vine’ Restless River estate wine when I am such a huge fan and admirer of everything Craig Wessels has achieved on his picturesque estate in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. But looking strictly at the wine in the glass, it possesses a twinkling crystalline canary yellow gold hue with aromatics that are delicately expressive but sophisticatedly restrained all at once, with a bouquet of white blossoms, granitic mineral spice, lemons in brine, pithy white citrus, and subtle hints of dry hay. The palate is wonderfully taut, crisp, and vibrantly fresh but let’s its serious demeanour slip a little with overt, showy pockets of sweet lemon and lime pastille fruit concentration, sweet baking herbs, and delicate vanilla pod spices. The acids are deliciously tangy and the textural structure fresh, vibrant, and accessible suggesting that this 2023 is certainly ready to drink now ahead of its more serious sibling, the Ava Marie Chardonnay. I love what Craig has managed to create with this new, more accessible style without losing any of the steely essence and intensity that makes Restless River’s Chardonnays so special. Drink now to 2035.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Restless River Pinot Noir 2023, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.

The second new wine in the Restless River range alongside the estate Chardonnay is this exciting young vine Pinot Noir, created as a support wine to the denser and more structured Le Luc Pinot Noir. Once again, Craig has nailed the style offering an accessible, bright juicy Pinot Noir with perfumed aromatics of violets, strawberry compote, blood oranges and red cherry fruits that intermingle with hints of polished mahogany, pomegranates, and sweet Christmas spices. On the palate, the wine is sleek, supple, and silky smooth showing a beautifully balanced mid-weight fruit concentration of red currants, strawberries, and cherries together with bright tangy acids and fine grained, savoury mineral tannins, all assembled in a pleasingly sophisticated manner. This is a delightfully accessible Pinot Noir packed full of energy and mouthwatering freshness that’s ready to drink on release. 

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Restless River Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14.1% Abv.

Craig and Anne Wessels finally release their highly anticipated 2021 Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon, named as such after their two oldest blocks planted in 1998 in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The 2021 was aged in 225 litre French oak barriques for 24 months, 25% of which were new. The aromatics are deep, dark and slightly broody on opening, before offering up succulent cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon notes of violets and white blossoms, freshly cut sandalwood, sappy cedar spice, macerated red cherries and crème de cassis before delicate hints of black olive tapenade, graphite, bay leaf and black currant herbal tea. The palate is wonderfully sensual and silky, texturally fine boned yet vibrant with an underlying mouthwatering tangy acidity that’s masterfully integrated with silky powdery tannins. With more time in the glass, the tart red cherry notes become more accentuated, mingling with savoury herbal notes, cola, and blueberry rock candy nuances. This is a wonderfully accomplished expression of elegant Cabernet Sauvignon that wears its own unique cool climate Hemel-en-Aarde Valley character with pride. Allow this excellent 2021 vintage to integrate and flesh out further before drinking from 2026 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Restless River Le Luc Pinot Noir 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 13% Abv.

Pinot Noir is a challenging grape to grow in South Africa, but it has undoubtedly found a home from home in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley of Walker Bay. The Le Luc Single Vineyard Pinot Noir from Craig Wessels seems to get better and better every year and with the 2022 vitnage, you see an accomplished wine made from vines planted in 2013. The wine was fermented using 10% whole bunches before being matured in 228 litre barrels for 12 months, 30% of which were new. The aromatics are loaded with toasty, bruleed notes of chargrilled meats, bramble berries, macerated ripe strawberries and earthy red currants before notes of rose petals, leafy black currant, porcini mushrooms and sweet Asian spices. The palate is spicy and sleek, tight knit, but silky and very polished with a medium bodied weight of earthy, brambly fruits and plums in liquor followed by a long, peppery red and black berry fruited finish that’s caressed by sweet soft tannins and bright tangy acids. Enjoy this classy expression on release and over its first 5 to 8 years in bottle.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2022, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 12.78% Abv.

While Craig Wessels has overseen a multitude of new plantings around his winery, the Chardonnay grapes for the Ava Marie are among the oldest in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley having been planted in 1999. The resulting wine was matured for 12 months in mostly 500 litre barrels of which 10% were new, together with portions aged in terracotta amphorae and stainless-steel barrels. Pale gold and star bright in the glass, this 2022 has a youthfully alluring aromatics showing citrus blossom, white flowers, lemon oil, and tangerine peel as well as lemon biscuits, oatmeal, and delicate savoury, leesy nuances. There is a hint of smoky struck flint reduction but perhaps far less than on some previous vintages at this same youthful stage. On the palate the precision is enhanced by a notable purity and crystallinity and a linear laser sharp texture, with layers of lemon citrus, yellow grapefruit pith, toffee apples and a vanilla pod dusting. The acidity is vibrant and intense but also beautifully integrated with the medium bodied fruit concentration. This is undoubtedly a very complete wine with a seamless textural demeanour, a majestic balance, and a long pithy wet granite minerality on the polished finish. Drink this beauty on release and over the next 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Restless River wines are imported into the UK market by Liberty Wines.