The Cape is blessed with a plethora of dynamic historical wineries. But unlike many wine regions around the world, there is a constant evolution of wines, wineries and winemaking that keep the South African wine scene exciting, cutting edge and vital. The Thamnus winery in the Overberg Region is just one such new up and coming wine farm. Founded in 2019, the winery’s first vintages were produced from the 2020 harvest using Chardonnay, many from the CY95, CY76, CY96 clones. Traditionally, winemaker P.J.Geyer makes two different styles from each clone which are then evaluated and potentially blended.
Thamnus cultivate 10 tons of fruit for themselves and currently bottle only circa five tons of this fruit. The estate’s total production is currently 90 tons of which they sell off 60 tons of fruit and keep a mere 30 tons, vinifying 10 tons, keeping 5 tons and selling off 5 tons in bulk wine. Approximately 75% of the vineyards are 10 years old and 25% were planted in 2015.
Thamnus Chardonnay 2021, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
Aged in new, second fill and 4th fill French oak barrels. The 2021 is surprisingly rich, creamy and leesy, super concentrated, almost unctuous with a big piercing lemon and lime depth, biscuit, grapefruit preserve, with a generous lick of vanilla pod and savoury oak spice. A very impressive expression from a great vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thamnus Chardonnay 2022, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
Aged in a mix of old and new French oak with fruit from a warmer year. The 2022 is more reserved and mineral, classical and restrained, showing hints of spicy lemon, white pepper, pithy lime peel and yellow grapefruit. Incredibly sleek and refined, mineral laden, pure and compact. Currently showing lovely youthful wound spring tension but also great cellaring potential. Ironically, I’d probably pick this wine as a 2021 if tasted blind.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The rugged Overberg Region.
Thamnus Chardonnay 2023, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
Aged in 1st, 2nd,3rd and 4th fill French oak barrels with the fruit coming from a wetter year in the Overberg. This 2023 vintage is embryonically youthful and vibrant with more opulent high tone fruit notes of fresh green honeydew melon, green apple, white pear, and a stony mineral limestone complexity. The palate reveals a sleek, harmonious elegance together with a glycerol fleshy elegance and a long, focused, spicy finish. This wine should evolve beautifully and possibly merit an even higher score in the future.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Winemaker P.J. Geyer.
Thamnus Pinot Noir 2021, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
The 2021 Pinot Noir displays a classic earthy, brambly, red and black berry fruited aromatics with hints of cranberry, crunchy wild strawberry before a smoky, burnt wood ember nuance. There is a classical sapidity evident on the entry with a chalky, stony, stalky spice complexity melting into a very sleek, polished tannin texture enlivened by crisp linear acids. A fine representation from a cooler, fresher, more linear vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Thamnus Pinot Noir 2022, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
The 2022 Pinot Noir is at first quite smoky and stony with hints of graphite, struck match and charcoal embers over sour red plum, black berry, curry leaf and bruised ripe strawberry fruits. There is a fullness and ripeness on the palate with a feel of density and extract from the sunshine while remaining stony, flinty and attractively smoky. While there are suggestions of exoticism on the palate, the wine remains unwaveringly elegant, light touch and beautifully focused. Should be at its best in 3 to 5 years time.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Thamnus Wines are currently seeking representation in the UK.
Capensis, meaning “from the Cape,” is a relatively new prestige winery in the Cape that has emerged as a quality leader in bringing South Africa back to the forefront of world-class Chardonnay production. South Africa’s Western Cape can be called both the oldest wine region of the New World and the newest wine region of the Old World and Capensis skilfully combines these two facets — the oldest and the newest — of Western Cape winemaking. It embodies the unparalleled quality that comes from old vines planted in some of the oldest soils in the world, and it represents the young energy of a new generation of winemakers focused on making world-class wines with the help of state-of-the-art techniques.
With the end of apartheid in 1994 and the opening of the world export market, South Africa’s remarkable wine-growing potential slowly became better known outside the country. To realize this potential, top viticulturists brought in by the owners, Jackson Family Wines from California, began researching and selecting the best grape varieties for each site’s soils and mesoclimate. In the search for the best Chardonnay sites, the focus of Capensis has been on the Stellenbosch, Overberg, and Robertson regions in the Western Cape. Philosophically, Capensis say they are not limited to these regions – “the only limitation is the quality of the individual vineyard site.”
Capensis Head Winemaker, Graham Weerts
The Capensis Chardonnays are now made at their new South African winery fully owned by Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines in USA after South African partner Anthony Beck’s share was recently bought out and is produced from vineyards that were expertly sourced by renowned viticulturalist Rosa Kruger. The wine, since its maiden Capensis vintage in 2013, has always been produced by Graham Weerts, from vineyards located in Stellenbosch, the Overberg, and the Robertson region. Graham was of course based on the West Coast of the USA for many years, commuting back and forth during vintage time, but over our breakfast tasting at the end of 2024, he assured me that he is well and truly settled back in South Africa overseeing all the Capensis winemaking as well as the new Swartland Dalkeith Winery project, who’s new white release and maiden Syrah red release will be reviewed on the Fine Wine Safari in the coming weeks.
The Stellenbosch estate of Fijnbosch sits at 527 metres (1,729 feet) in elevation on clay soils on the high-elevation, steep terrain slopes of the Groot Drakenstein mountains in the Banghoek Valley with fynbos surrounding the vines, contributing to the Chardonnay’s exceptional natural acidity and complexity. The Kaaimansgat vineyards planted on Granitic soils in the Overberg, lie at an elevation of 757 metres (2,484 feet). Impressively remote and resting up in the mountains of the Overberg, the Kaaimansgat vineyards literally translate to “crocodile’s lair” and have long been used in world class examples of Chardonnay by producers such as Bouchard Finlayson and Leeu Passant.
Situated at 174 metres or 571 feet in elevation, rooted in blistered limestone soil, the 16 rows of vines in the E. Bruwer vineyard in Robertson produce grapes that contribute a rich texture to the Capensis Chardonnay, with abundant notes of peach and other yellow orchard fruits. The vines are trained in a method typically referred to as single cordon sprawl, which suits the site, which was primarily planted to Chardonnay Clone 95. Select additional vineyards located in the Helderberg and the Klein Karoo make up the total grape material available to Graham Weerts at harvest time.
Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.
Wonderfully floral stone fruits laced with lemon and lime peel, white blossom and grapefruit confit over dusty stony granite. The palate boast fresh citrus fruits, fresh pineapple chunks, grapefruit preserve and delicate biscuit leesy notes on the finish. Super elegant, mouth watering and deliciously fresh, pure and precise.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
Sourced predominantly from younger own vineyard Banghoek Valley grapes. Vinified with the same philosophy as Capensis, fermented in oak, a small portion of 25-28% new oak with maturation for closer to 11 months on full gross lees. The aromatics are pure and bright, laced with lemon and lime cordial, dried herbs, lemon grass and a pithy grapefruit hint. Beautiful breadth and depth on the palate with a bold intensity, fabulous green and yellow citrus fruit concentration finishing with a silky, delicate lacy persistence. Light touch but very classy.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Chardonnay 2017, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv.
Another very well made, focused, but incredibly intense expression of Chardonnay that is simply brimming with smoky minerality, lemon and lime confit, crushed granite, green citrus, honeycomb, and vanilla pod spice. Beautiful balance, massive intensity of fruit concentration, and a truly delicious symmetry of acid and bright citrus fruit. Very impressive from a great vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Chardonnay 2018, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv.
50%+ Fijnbosch farm fruit in the blend normally. Displays complex aromatics of savoury waxy lemons, pineapple, wet straw, grilled nuts, vanilla pod, lime cordial and a fine, stony vein of minerality. The palate shows a notable intensity of green and yellow citrus fruits, lovely translucent purity and a powerful but energetic length. Youthful, vibrant and very impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Chardonnay 2021, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv.
Blend of Fijnbosch, Barrydale (Klein Karoo), Robertson and Kaaimansgat fruit. Similar oaking regime with 32-33% new oak and multiple passage barrels. The aromatics show a fabulous lemon blossom and herby, savoury depth with green melon, lemon pastille and a beautifully integrated delicate oak spice that’s almost an afterthought. The texture is world class, polished, sleek, refined and incredibly crystalline and pure. A beautiful expression from a top-class producer.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Fijnbosch Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv.
Only three barrels of this maiden vintage Fijnbosch were produced. The aromatics reveal a deliciously attractive tangy, sweet and sour white and yellow citrus fruits that are firmly under-pinned by a seriously taut minerality. But the concentration with beautiful precision on the palate is phenomenal, combining intensity of fruit with harmonious balance and textural elegance. Such class and pedigree on display here that leverages the finest qualities of higher altitude cool climate Chardonnay.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Fijnbosch Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, 14.5% Abv.
Total 130 x 12 cases made from a blend of all Chardonnay blocks on the Fijnbosch farm. Mostly sold cellar door, this wine showcases the property and its true terroir of Tukulu and Hutton soils with a sandstone overlay. The aromatics show beautiful lemon oil, sweet herbs, waxy Granny Smith apples and grapefruit confit notes with underlying savoury, leesy nuances. Plush, textural, and mouth-wateringly tangy, this wine shows punchy intensity, a piercing depth but also the most seductive, harmonious balance. Wow, what a wine!
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Capensis Wines are imported into the UK by Jackson Family Wines distributor, John E. Fells. The recommended retail prices are:
Capensis ‘Silene’ Chardonnay 2022, Stellenbosch (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £35pb
Capensis Chardonnay 2021, Western Cape (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £95pb
Capensis ‘Fijnbosch’ Chardonnay 2020, Stellenbosch (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £200pb
I was lucky enough to catch up with Peter-Allan Finlayson for a lovely tasting and lunch last year on his spontaneous blink-of-an-eye visit to the UK to touch base with the wine trade (and also take in the Springboks versus Scotland rugby game at Murrayfield). So it was an extra special treat to hear that Peter-Allan would be over again in January to preview a few new vintages due to be released onto the market in May/June 2022.
Peter-Allan’s Crystallum wines are in the enviable position of being quite tightly allocated to start with and generally selling out nationally four to five months into the 12 month calendar. But his wines have earnt their quality reputation vintage after vintage and are sold at very moderate prices considering the quality and market demand. Getting an early look-in at new vintages thus becomes a very valuable exercise every year.
Crystallum Agnes Chardonnay 2021, WO Western Cape, 13% Abv.
Peter-Allan Finlayson describes the 2021 Agnes as a wine with great delicacy, elegance and a lithe light touch crystalline purity. Indeed, this wine is incredibly sleek with fabulous zesty aromatics of lemon and lime biscuits, dusty grey slate and hints of honeydew melon. On the palate, the wine is beautifully elegant and pure boasting boiled lemon bon bons candy, white peach and a subtle salty, leesy, savoury complexity on the finish. Lovely precision, light-touch intensity and concentration of flavour on the long, linear, persistent finish. An understated wine that will appeal to sophisticated drinkers. Drink on release and over 5 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Crystallum Single Vineyard Ferrum Chardonnay 2021, WO Overberg, 13% Abv.
The grapes for the second release of Ferrum Chardonnay are sourced from a one hectare slice of 12 year old vines located within a seven hectare vineyard block on iron rich soils that lies just three kilometres beyond the Creation Winery (in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge) at Shaw’s Mountain in the Overberg. The other six hectares were planted by Peter-Allan more recently and currently go into the Agnes Chardonnay cuvee. The original part of the vineyard was based around Sauvignon Blanc vines that were field grafted over to Chardonnay. The aromatics show seductive lactic lemony tangerine notes of yellow citrus pastille, subtle salted toffee and delicate vanilla wood spice nuances over a flinty minerality. The palate is full, crystalline and finely balanced with a plush textural glycerol mouthfeel displaying hints of caramelised lemons, lime peel, lemon biscuits and salted vanilla ice cream on the finish. Another very impressive pinpoint, seamless expression of Chardonnay from Crystallum. Production is tiny so the challenge is always to track down a few precious bottles that you can drink on release or over 10+ years.
The Bouchard Finlayson Crocodile’s Lair Kaaimansgat Chardonnay was fermented in a classic Burgundian fashion and allowed to age in small oak barrels in contact with its fine lees. Although not owned by the estate, Bouchard Finlayson has been linked to the Kaaimansgat or Crocodile’s Lair vineyard for almost 24 years.
The Kaaimansgat vineyard is hidden away in the Elandskloof Valley, behind the village of Villiersdorp, some 80km inland from Hermanus. The Crocodile’s Lair site is located at 700 metres above sea level and its grapes ripen almost a month later than those in other Cape Chardonnay vineyards, benefiting enormously from the cool autumn temperatures. The vines are unirrigated, producing small berries with a correspondingly high skin to juice ratio, perfect for high quality Chardonnay expressions.
Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2018, WO Overberg, 13.5% Abv.
The 2018 Crocodiles Lair Chardonnay is a classic Chardonnay that delivers notes of freshly-cut green apples, lemon peel and pineapple pastille on the nutty, mineral nose together with hints of buttered white toast, vanilla pod oak spice and white blossom. The palate is medium-bodied, crystalline and pure with nuances of baked apples and tangy citrus on the long seductive finish. A cool climate Chardonnay expression that always overdelivers and offers incredible value for money. Drink now and over the next 5-6+ years.
The Litigo Pinot Noir is an impressive new release for Peter-Allan and Andrew Finlayson after their Bona Fide cuvee was not made into a single vineyard wine but blended away into the very impressive Peter Max 2019. I can’t remember if I knew this fact or not earlier in the year when Peter-Allan hosted a new release tasting dinner in London on the banks of the Thames, but it certainly explains in hindsight the extra depth, precision and concentration evident on the Peter Max 2019!
The new Litigo Cuvee from the Overberg.
The maiden vintage Litigo is made from seven year old vines sourced from Crystallum’s very own Shaw’s Mountain Vineyard just outside the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The Litigo, meaning ‘discussion’ in legal terms, is a wine made in partnership with lawyer Eben van Wyk. Some cuvees come and go, such as the Paradisum Syrah from the Swartland, but I think this is certainly a wine to watch as the vines slowly notch up a little more age.
The wine was fermented using only native yeasts in stainless steel tanks using a 20% whole bunch component with the rest de-stemmed but left intact as whole berries. The wine spent a total of four weeks on the skins after which it went into French and Hungarian oak barrels (30% new) for 11 months before bottling.
Crystallum Litigo Pinot Noir 2019, WO Overberg, 13.6% Abv.
pH 3.60, 13.67% Abv., 5.0 g/l TA, Total sulphites 46 mg/l, Residual sugar 1.7 g/l.
When initially opened, the aromatics were rather broody and foresty, dominated by bramble berry fruits, red currants and wild strawberries. But chilling the bottle down ever so slightly and affording it a little more time to breath and open its shoulders, the wine really does blossom into something quite beautiful. The aromatics are slightly wild and spicy with notes of red cherries, strawberries and earthy mulberry notes embellished with hints of dried baking herbs. There is subtle spice nuances, an attractive violet and rose petal perfume but no real evidence of the 20% whole bunch component or any overt wood spice notes from the 30% new oak, just harmonious integration. The palate is impressively silky and sleek with beautifully pure refined tannins, a light to medium bodied mouthfeel weight and delicate, integrated earthy red berry and pomegranate fruit notes enlivened by soft fresh acids and a seamless finish. One can’t say this wine has the most mineral of profiles but certainly elegance and finesse are the order of the day. A really gentle, generous wine that speaks softly and is very amiable. Drink now and over the next 5 to 8+ years. (Only 1,264 bottles were produced)
The Kaaimansgat or Crocodile’s Lair vineyard is hidden away in the Elands Kloof Valley behind the village of Villiersdorp, just 80km from Hermanus. A beautiful spot inside a blind valley nestling amongst majestic Cape mountains.
Bouchard Finlayson has been linked directly to this vineyard for close to twenty-four years. It is located 700m above sea level, ripens a month later than other Cape Chardonnays and benefits enormously from cool autumn temperatures. The vines are not irrigated and they usually produce smaller than normal berries with a high skin to juice ratio, adding an extra flavour component to the wine.
The 2014 vintage commenced on the 12th of February, much later than normal, after a long and possibly the wettest summer on record with 610mm of rainfall recorded from October to March. This atypical vintage initiated a keen sense of urgency from both vineyard and cellar staff. Peter Finlayson’s experience and attention to detail ensured a successful harvest and an excellent vintage for the estate’s white wine.
The optimally ripened grapes were whole bunch pressed to utilise the added complexity derived from the skins and stalks. The acid component of the fruit assisted in arriving at high malic acid levels that enhance the wood maturation according to Peter. The point of departure for this particular “Limited Edition” cuvee was the fact that 50% of the wine was matured in premium new French oak while the remaining 50% was aged in inert stainless steel. (Alcohol: 12.48%, Acid: 5.4g/l, Residual Sugar: 1.6g/l, pH: 3.44, with only 305 x 12 cases produced.)
The first thing that strikes you about this fascinating wine is how totally and utterly European it appears on both the nose and palate. The aromatics are both exotic and hugely restrained and classical at the same time, crossing boundaries and pushing boundaries. The nose is seductively fresh, perfumed and complex with lemon grass, grated lime peel, waxy crab apples, incense, quince jelly and bruised yellow summer orchard fruits. But simultaneously there is a real presence of minerality, wet chalk, river pebbles, and petrichor nuances. On the palate, you get hints of smokey reduction, sweet / sour yellow plums, green melon, crunchy white peaches and lime cordial. Plenty of yin and yang but at no point is there ever any discord or dissonance. There is exoticism twinned with linearity, with subtle hints of creamy butterscotch oak emerging on the elegant finish, very much in the mould of a fresh, lightly wooded premium 1er Cru Chablis. Steely, textural, and ultra cool, this is a truly spectacular expression from one of South Africa’s most premium cool climate Chardonnay regions. Drink now to 2030+
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Footnote: Elandskloof fruit is certainly big news in winetrade circles at the moment after the recent maiden release of the Leeu Passant Elandskloof Chardonnay 2015 from the Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines. Indeed, one of Andrea Mullineux’s winemaking Eureka moments occured while drinking a bottle of Kaaimansgat 1997 Chardonnay from Bouchard Finlayson. I myself only drank my last bottle of the 1997 about 2 years ago and the memory is still very vivid, such was the incredible quality and youthfulness of that particular wine. Elandskloof fruit also notably makes it into the uber premium Capensis Chardonnay from the Jackson Family Winery joint venture with Anthony Beck.
The Capensis Chardonnay is made at a new South African winery owned by Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines in USA and South African Anthony Beck, and is produced from vineyards expertly sourced by renowned viticulturalist Rosa Kruger. The wine is produced by Graham Weerts, from vineyards located in Stellenbosch, the Overberg, and the Robertson region.
The maiden vintage 2013 was reviewed several times on this blog…
So I was intrigued to taste a pre-European release sample of the follow-up 2014. But then of course I realised I had already tasted the 2014 in November 2016 as part of the extensive Decanter Magazine’s blind Chardonnay tasting review. Reading my November review and noting the three judges scores, one can really see how this wine has evolved and improved with extra time in bottle over the past 5 months.
Vineyards Used in Capensis…
The Stellenbosch estate of Fijnbosch sits at 1,719 feet in elevation on clay soils with fynbos surrounding the vines, contributing to the Chardonnay’s exceptional natural acidity and complexity.
The Kaaimansgat vineyards in the Overberg, lie at an elevation of 2,484 feet. Impressively remote and resting up in the mountains of the Overberg, the Kaaimansgat vineyard literally translates to “crocodile’s lair” and has long been used in world class examples of Chardonnay from producers like Bouchard Finlayson and more latterly, Leeu Passant.
The final components are sourced from the E. Bruwer vineyard in Robertson, which lies at an elevation of 571 feet in a limestone rich terroir long renowned for producing top Chardonnay grapes.
Capensis Chardonnay 2014, W.O. Western Cape, 14.5 Abv.
This Chardonnay has an alluring lime green tinged lemon yellow glow. Still very youthful, there are initially intensely bold notes of vanilla bean, creme brûlée, and pannacotta cream. In 2014, 50% of the Cuvee was fermented in small French oak barrels (compared to 100% in 2013), with the balance fermented in stainless steel, and the wine is better for it. All the components were aged on their lees, being hand-stirred monthly for 10 months. Once in the glass, more complex aromas of lemon zest, yellow grapefruit and bergamot develop with subtle truffle oil and shiitaki mushroom notes. On the palate, there is certainly creamy breadth from the partial Malo (30 to 50%) which is beautifully balanced by crisp, pithy, crunchy green fruit acids. The fairground toffee apple nuances are still pronounced but should recede into the background as the wine ages, with the saline yellow citrus, lime cordial and dusty minerality becoming more pronounced. Stylistically a very bold, opulent wine that will appeal more to new world Chardonnay connoisseurs than perhaps Burgundy lovers. But I think that’s kind of the point? Nevertheless, in its youth, this wine is classy, seductive and very well made and should impress the fussiest of global Chardonnay drinkers.
