Capensis, meaning “from the Cape,” is a relatively new prestige winery in the Cape that has emerged as a quality leader in bringing South Africa back to the forefront of world-class Chardonnay production. South Africa’s Western Cape can be called both the oldest wine region of the New World and the newest wine region of the Old World and Capensis skilfully combines these two facets — the oldest and the newest — of Western Cape winemaking. It embodies the unparalleled quality that comes from old vines planted in some of the oldest soils in the world, and it represents the young energy of a new generation of winemakers focused on making world-class wines with the help of state-of-the-art techniques.
With the end of apartheid in 1994 and the opening of the world export market, South Africa’s remarkable wine-growing potential slowly became better known outside the country. To realize this potential, top viticulturists brought in by the owners, Jackson Family Wines from California, began researching and selecting the best grape varieties for each site’s soils and mesoclimate. In the search for the best Chardonnay sites, the focus of Capensis has been on the Stellenbosch, Overberg, and Robertson regions in the Western Cape. Philosophically, Capensis say they are not limited to these regions – “the only limitation is the quality of the individual vineyard site.”
The Capensis Chardonnays are now made at their new South African winery fully owned by Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines in USA after South African partner Anthony Beck’s share was recently bought out and is produced from vineyards that were expertly sourced by renowned viticulturalist Rosa Kruger. The wine, since its maiden Capensis vintage in 2013, has always been produced by Graham Weerts, from vineyards located in Stellenbosch, the Overberg, and the Robertson region. Graham was of course based on the West Coast of the USA for many years, commuting back and forth during vintage time, but over our breakfast tasting at the end of 2024, he assured me that he is well and truly settled back in South Africa overseeing all the Capensis winemaking as well as the new Swartland Dalkeith Winery project, who’s new white release and maiden Syrah red release will be reviewed on the Fine Wine Safari in the coming weeks.
The Stellenbosch estate of Fijnbosch sits at 527 metres (1,729 feet) in elevation on clay soils on the high-elevation, steep terrain slopes of the Groot Drakenstein mountains in the Banghoek Valley with fynbos surrounding the vines, contributing to the Chardonnay’s exceptional natural acidity and complexity. The Kaaimansgat vineyards planted on Granitic soils in the Overberg, lie at an elevation of 757 metres (2,484 feet). Impressively remote and resting up in the mountains of the Overberg, the Kaaimansgat vineyards literally translate to “crocodile’s lair” and have long been used in world class examples of Chardonnay by producers such as Bouchard Finlayson and Leeu Passant.
Situated at 174 metres or 571 feet in elevation, rooted in blistered limestone soil, the 16 rows of vines in the E. Bruwer vineyard in Robertson produce grapes that contribute a rich texture to the Capensis Chardonnay, with abundant notes of peach and other yellow orchard fruits. The vines are trained in a method typically referred to as single cordon sprawl, which suits the site, which was primarily planted to Chardonnay Clone 95. Select additional vineyards located in the Helderberg and the Klein Karoo make up the total grape material available to Graham Weerts at harvest time.
Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.
Wonderfully floral stone fruits laced with lemon and lime peel, white blossom and grapefruit confit over dusty stony granite. The palate boast fresh citrus fruits, fresh pineapple chunks, grapefruit preserve and delicate biscuit leesy notes on the finish. Super elegant, mouth watering and deliciously fresh, pure and precise.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.
Sourced predominantly from younger own vineyard Banghoek Valley grapes. Vinified with the same philosophy as Capensis, fermented in oak, a small portion of 25-28% new oak with maturation for closer to 11 months on full gross lees. The aromatics are pure and bright, laced with lemon and lime cordial, dried herbs, lemon grass and a pithy grapefruit hint. Beautiful breadth and depth on the palate with a bold intensity, fabulous green and yellow citrus fruit concentration finishing with a silky, delicate lacy persistence. Light touch but very classy.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Chardonnay 2017, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv.
Another very well made, focused, but incredibly intense expression of Chardonnay that is simply brimming with smoky minerality, lemon and lime confit, crushed granite, green citrus, honeycomb, and vanilla pod spice. Beautiful balance, massive intensity of fruit concentration, and a truly delicious symmetry of acid and bright citrus fruit. Very impressive from a great vintage.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Chardonnay 2018, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv.
50%+ Fijnbosch farm fruit in the blend normally. Displays complex aromatics of savoury waxy lemons, pineapple, wet straw, grilled nuts, vanilla pod, lime cordial and a fine, stony vein of minerality. The palate shows a notable intensity of green and yellow citrus fruits, lovely translucent purity and a powerful but energetic length. Youthful, vibrant and very impressive.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Chardonnay 2021, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv.
Blend of Fijnbosch, Barrydale (Klein Karoo), Robertson and Kaaimansgat fruit. Similar oaking regime with 32-33% new oak and multiple passage barrels. The aromatics show a fabulous lemon blossom and herby, savoury depth with green melon, lemon pastille and a beautifully integrated delicate oak spice that’s almost an afterthought. The texture is world class, polished, sleek, refined and incredibly crystalline and pure. A beautiful expression from a top-class producer.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Fijnbosch Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv.
Only three barrels of this maiden vintage Fijnbosch were produced. The aromatics reveal a deliciously attractive tangy, sweet and sour white and yellow citrus fruits that are firmly under-pinned by a seriously taut minerality. But the concentration with beautiful precision on the palate is phenomenal, combining intensity of fruit with harmonious balance and textural elegance. Such class and pedigree on display here that leverages the finest qualities of higher altitude cool climate Chardonnay.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Capensis Fijnbosch Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, 14.5% Abv.
Total 130 x 12 cases made from a blend of all Chardonnay blocks on the Fijnbosch farm. Mostly sold cellar door, this wine showcases the property and its true terroir of Tukulu and Hutton soils with a sandstone overlay. The aromatics show beautiful lemon oil, sweet herbs, waxy Granny Smith apples and grapefruit confit notes with underlying savoury, leesy nuances. Plush, textural, and mouth-wateringly tangy, this wine shows punchy intensity, a piercing depth but also the most seductive, harmonious balance. Wow, what a wine!
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Capensis Wines are imported into the UK by Jackson Family Wines distributor, John E. Fells. The recommended retail prices are:
Capensis ‘Silene’ Chardonnay 2022, Stellenbosch (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £35pb
Capensis Chardonnay 2021, Western Cape (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £95pb
Capensis ‘Fijnbosch’ Chardonnay 2020, Stellenbosch (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £200pb
