Palomino; Swartland

The Riebeek Cellar Wine Co was established in 1941 and is today owned by 30 shareholders, with some 900 hectares of vineyard under cultivation. Under the watchful eye of Sheree Nothnagel, who was previously at Wildehurst Cellar, who moved across at the end of 2019 to head up the Riebeek Valley Wine Co.’s boutique cellar with the Raar range of wines being the small production “jewel in the crown” at this Swartland winery.

Samples of their new vintages were received and tasted recently and I continue with part 2 featuring their eclectic Petite Syrah red and Palomino white.

Raar Petite Sirah 2024, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

This delicious red cultivar is perhaps more famous for producing examples from California than the Swartland, but Petite Sirah or Durif as it’s known as in Australia, originates in France and was cultivated as dry farmed bush vines, producing grapes that were fermented with wild yeasts using 30% whole bunches and extended post fermentation maceration before being aged in old French oak barrels for 8 months. A deeply coloured wine in the glass, the aromatics are exotic and lifted boasting detailed layers of sweet herbs, Christmas spices, black pepper, blood orange, black cherry and a dusty granitic minerality. In the mouth, the wine is generous and fleshy, incredibly supple with pliable tannins, a soft tangy well integrated acidity, and textural layers of savoury black currants, earthy mulberries and black raspberry fruits. Soft and harmonious on the palate but certainly does not lack intention and focus. A beautiful expression that avoids gratuitous fruit sweetness in favour of a spicy, mineral complexity. Another thoroughly smashable bottle of red. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Raar Palomino 2024, WO Swartland, 13.5% Abv.

Palomino has long been considered a bit of ‘hipster’ grape cultivar when made in a dry white wine style rather than a fortified flor sherry style. Like the Raar Palomino, it is clearly a cultivar that has a real affinity with the Swartland terroir, offering up smoky, dusty, mineral aromatics of crushed granite, rock salt, brine, and oyster shell over hints of white blossom, peach stone, lemon peel and lime pith. On the palate, there is an attractive salty, maritime character showing flavour intensity together with an impressive glycerol weight, hints of honey, bergamot, lemon grass, and Japanese green tea ice cream on the finish. A deliciously characterful wine that will be the perfect accompaniment to all seafood and sushi dishes. Drink now to 2030+.

(Wine Safari Score: 91+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Skerpioen white from Eben Sadie is a field blend of interplanted Chenin Blanc and Palomino vines. These unirrigated old bush vines were planted between the years 1958 to 1967 in extremely chalky soils in one of the coolest locations in the Swartland.

Of all Eben Sadie’s Old Vine Series wines, the Skerpioen white is perhaps the most intriguing, slightly austere in youth, this wine is mineral driven and restrained and often takes a few years to open its shoulders and show it’s hidden depths.

As Christian Eedes from South Africa’s Wine Magazine comments…. “a perplexing wine…” with a minerality and austerity that is often “mesmerising”. Sums this wine up poignantly.

Sadie Family Old Vines Series Skerpioen 2016, WO Swartland, 13.5 Abv.

It’s hard not to approach this wine without preconceptions! I was excited just uncorking the wine. But Skerpioen is always a complex and complicated wine to understand and whenever you open a bottle, you never quite know what mood it is going to be in, a little bit like drinking top red Burgundy. The second of the hot, drought vintages, the 2016 is showing a lot more expressive complexity than when I first tasted this wine on release. It still has a pithy nose of lime peel, lemon grass, apple, dried herbs, talc and dusty granite. A little extra time in bottle has allowed this wine to develop subtle notes of white peach, orange blossom, white pear and an alluring grilled herbs and pork fat complexity. Fleshy and textural with perhaps not quite the same depth, power and intensity of the 2015, this wine remains a very finely poised, beautifully balanced and thoroughly delicious release from Eben Sadie. Start drinking now, but no rush as this will evolve for another 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)