Puligny Montrachet

Like one of my other favourite producers in Burgundy Francois Mikulski, Sylvain Bzikot is also the descendant of Polish immigrants and is a large broad-shouldered man who was known to enjoy playing the odd bit of rugby back in the day. Some say his wines resemble him, often being rich, full-bodied and expansive. But while I have heard of this producer and his highly respected wines, this was my first opportunity to make a humble acquaintance with his wines via his Bourgogne Aligote.

Sylvain is based in the heart of the Côte de Beaune village of Puligny-Montrachet making wines with real personality. His 13-hectare estate was originally created by his grandparents in the 1940s who had arrived as Polish immigrants to work in the vineyards around the neighbouring village of Meursault. After a few years working in the fields they were able to buy small parcels of land which they subsequently planted. Third generation vigneron Sylvain is traditional and respectful in his approach to winemaking and the effect really shows in the end product. The grapes for this modest Aligote were organically grown and the emphasis in bottle is all about minerality, purity and freshness, and ultimately, allowing the grapes to express their terroir.

Domaine Sylvain Bzikot Bourgogne Aligote 2020, 12% Abv.

This is another thrilling expression of Aligote that leans firmly in the direction of restraint and reserve. The aromatics are stony and mineral with notes of crushed limestone, white citrus and stone fruits intertwined with dried herbs, dried hay and a fresh fennel leaf complexity. The palate shows wonderful balance and poise, a medium textural weight enlivened by pithy rasping acids, lime peel zest, lemon bon bons and subtle yellow grapefruit nuances on the stony, phenolic, slightly grippy finish. So much energy and an abundance of mouth-watering tangy freshness with a classic wet river pebble stony finish. There are riper and sweeter fruited expressions than this Bzikot Aligote, but my money would be on throwing this into an opulent seafood and oyster dinner extravaganza for full effect! Drink now and over the next 2 to 3 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 89/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Henri Boillot is a fifth-generation vigneron, who began his wine education at his family’s winery before leaving to found his own négociant house where he honed his skills and developed his own personal style.

After returning home to take over the reins of the family estate Domaine Henri Boillot, he continued to develop his négociant business under the Henri Boillot label, where he overseas all vineyard work and harvesting himself.

His meticulous and uncompromising quality focused winemaking has earned him a place in the top echelons of producers in this premium French region. Today he is joined by his son, Guillaume, who makes the red wines while Henri makes all the whites.

As the dust settles on the 2016 En-primeur tastings, I decided to taste a bottle of Henri’s superb Puligny Montrachet 2014, from a vintage that has been likened by many to the quality of the forthcoming 2016 vintage.

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet 2014, Burgundy, 13 Abv.

A pale lemon gold colour, this 2014 white Burgundy displays an impressive dusty minerality, chalky limestone and wet river pebbles. This aromatics are youthful and tight and need plenty of coaxing out the glass before revealing notes of citrus blossom, crunchy green pears, Granny Smith apples and lime peel hints. The palate is tart, vibrant and intense showing gravelly liquid minerality, bergamot, pithy yellow grapefruit, pear fruit purée and a pronounced rasping, briney edge that finishes succinctly with salty liquorice stick nuances which combine with the wine’s precise thread of acidity. A Puligny Montrachet with stature above its Village status thanks to this superb 2014 vintage, and should improve for 3 to 5 years and drink well for 8 to 10+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)