An Iconic Block Buster Ribera del Duero that’s Shooting Out the Lights – Revisiting the Garmon 2018 Tinto…

February 10, 2023February 10, 2023 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

It’s a phenomenon that has gripped the fine wine world for the past four or five years. With prices and availability of top producers’ wines from the classic regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany and Piedmont becoming impossibly hard to secure on release, loyal fine wine consumers are consigned to trawling the secondary market where they are expected to pay exorbitant prices from opportunistic brokers. But among all the fine wine market’s hubris, high demand and heat of the past five years, one classic region has slowly but steadily been on the ascendancy – no, not with prices, but rather with its wine quality.

The DOC of Ribera del Duero is indeed the current darling of fine wine lovers around the world and producers like Garmon, owned by the Garcia family, one of Spain’s most famous winemaking dynasties, seem to have all the right attributes to attract serious drinkers and collectors alike. With Garmon’s current production at around only 5,000 cases per year, this represents approximately a third of what Chateau Latour produces or about half of the production of iconic estates like Chateau Angelus or Bolgheri’s Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia. But of course, Ribera del Duero is no stranger to icon and cult producers with wineries like Vega Sicilia and Dominio de Pingus regarded as some of the greatest wineries in the world of fine wine. Indeed it was Mariano Garcia, the owner of Garmon, who produced some of the most iconic vintages at Vega Sicilia whilst head winemaker there from 1968 to 1998.

The Vintage

The 2018 vintage started quite cold with a generous winter rainfall providing replenishment to the water table after a dry 2017. The winter was cold and challenging, with late frosts that did not harm the vines due to a slow vegetative development as a result of prolonged low temperatures. Spring was rainy and cool, increasing the vigour of the vineyards and requiring a greater leaf thinning program to control the yields. At the end of June, the temperatures reached summer highs and allowed for almost perfect development of the berries. The good weather remained until the end of ripening, with the harvest starting on the 27th of September.

Garmon Continental ‘Garmon’ Tinto 2018, Ribera del Duero DOC, Spain, 14.5% Abv.

The 2018 Garmon is made from pure Tempranillo fruit sourced from several different villages all with a pronounced continental climate and old organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards. The various parcels are fermented individually, village by village with indigenous yeasts and matured in 225 litre French oak barrels for 20 months. The 2018 is a bit of a block buster and shows a wonderfully deep, intense, expansive expression of premium Ribera del Duero boasting complex layers of exotic spices, a sweet intoxicating purple flower perfume, violets, red cherries, strawberries and a seductive blueberry nuance. Below the opulent red and black pastille fruit layers purrs a powerful V8 engine, brimming with a black berry compote intensity, salty black liquorice and hints of dried fennel seeds and woodsmoke. This wine has all the power and purity you could possibly want with invigorating, mouth-watering acids and just the slightest exotic balsamic hint on the long finish. A really impressive creation as well as being incredible value for money.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Available from Museum Wines at £42.50 per bottle Inc. https://www.museumwines.co.uk/shop/garmon/2018/garmon-2018/

Vega Sicilia’s New Release Tasting 2019 in London with Antonio Menendez Puente…

November 27, 2019December 29, 2019 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

The Ribera del Duero is located in Spain’s northern plateau and is one of eleven Quality Wine regions within the autonomous community of Castile and Leon. It is of course also one of the most recognised and admired high quality fine wine producing regions to be found along the course of the Duero river. A largely flat, hot, dry rocky terrain that is centred around the town of Aranda de Duero, the region was upgraded from DOC to DOCa (denominacion de origen calificada) status in 2008 helped in large part by the global reputation and quality of the wines of Bodegas Vega Sicilia.

Undoubtedly considered the “first growth” of Spain and one of the most prestigious and respected wineries in Europe, this incredible producer located in the Ribera del Duero east of Valladolid, covers over 1000 hectares with around 230 under vine. Founded in 1864 by Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who arrived from Bordeaux with cuttings of local grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, and planted them together with Spain’s signature grape Tinto Fino, a local clone of Tempranillo.

The nearby Bodegas Alion estate is the final piece in the Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero puzzle, producing superb high quality wines that can normally be enjoyed in their youth or aged for at least a decade or more. Completing the portfolio selection is their Pintia from D.O. Toro and finally the new(ish) Macan Rioja wines made under the Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild Vega Sicilia joint venture.

Macan Clasico 2016, Rioja DOCa

The hallmark opulent exotic Macan nose is beautifully marked by sweet lavender, black berry fruits, creme de cassis and a plush brûléed veil of vanilla pod and buttered brown toast. The palate texture is fabulously pinpoint and polished with very fine grained stony tannins offset against a fairly classical, medium bodied weight of fruit. Plenty of succulence and appeal.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Macan 2015, Rioja DOCa

The Macan big brother shows a noticeably darker tone of berry fruits with lifted notes of black cherry, blue berry and raisined damson plums that combine synergistically with nuances of grey slate, graphite and molasses. Sleek and lush on the entry, the palate is held tightly in check by a fine, noble framing acidity that lends tension and a feel of linearity to the texture. Tannins are very fine, powdery and grippy but well balanced with the intense, saline black berry fruits. A really classy edition that needs nothing more than a few more years in the cellar before drinking.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bodegas Vega Sicilia Pintia 2015, DO Toro

A wine that grows in stature every successive vintage release. This great Spanish vintage offers up a deep, ripe, broody melange of molasses, raisined black plum, black currant reduction and smokey graphite spice. The palate is plump and glycerol with fruit opulence that is slightly clipped in its youth but which shows fine developmental promise with its crystalline acids and super sleek slatey mineral tannins. A lovely expression.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bodegas Alion 2016, DOCa Ribera del Duero

This Alion has a fabulously dark fruited exotic nose with plenty of alluring blue and purple berry fruits, Parma violets and pink rock candy. The wonderful aromatic purity and precision continues on to a super lithe, supple, elegantly textured palate braced with fresh cool acids and tart black berry and black cherry intensity. The oak is impressively integrated already and the palate fruit weighted in the favour of finesse and creamy elegance. A really regal expression of Alion and possibly one of my favourite vintages in several years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bodegas Vega Sicilia Valbuena No.5 2015, DOCa Ribera del Duero

Initially the aromatics on this Valbuena are tight, classical and ever so slightly broody with subtle notes of brown toast, vanilla pod, molasses and a caramelised plum note. The palate is bold and sleek, finely textured and notably elegant and fine boned. There is also plenty of ripe black fruit, cassis reduction, caramelised nuts and Christmas pudding exoticism. The sleek mid weight concentration and polished, sweet tannins point to possibly a slightly earlier drinking version but certainly no rush to open as usual.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva 2010, DOCa Ribera del Duero

Another finely layered, rich expressive Unico that is just starting to blossom after almost a decade. The nose is deep, dark fruited and earthy with sweet tannery leather, Christmas pudding, molasses and milk chocolate coated raisin nuances. Plummy, sweet fruited and wonderfully complex, this has the acid frame, glycerol concentration and baked black fruit intensity and power for the long haul. A very classy, well balanced sumptuous Unico.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bodegas Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial NV (2020), DOCa Ribera del Duero

Like the Unico, this Reserva Especial is entrancingly deep and savoury with earthy black fruits concertinaed between tannery leather, wet river stones and graphite minerality. The palate is dense, weighty and glycerol with layers of earthy black brambly fruits that coat the mouth. So fabulously full, expansive, plump and concentrated yet it never loses its freshness or textural frame or shape. Lovely intensity and complexity, this is quite simply another blockbuster with youthful purity, glycerol unctuousness and sublime harmony and balance.

(Wine Safari Score: 98/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vega Sicilia New Release Tasting 2017 with Antonio Menendez Puente and Technical Director Gonzalo Iturriaga de Juan…

December 21, 2017December 22, 2017 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ 1 Comment

There are a few release tastings held in London every year that I really look forward to. Top of the list is of course the new bottled vintage release tasting of Domaine de la Romanee Conti normally held in January or early February. No need for an explanation there. After DRC, there are a couple more that are thoroughly captivating, one being the Gaja new release Cru Barolo and Barbaresco tastings and the other has to be the annual tasting of the new vintages of Bodegas Vega Sicila.

The winery began building its formidable reputation after 1903 under the ownership of Antonio Herrero, winning a number of awards, and enjoying extensive international distribution. The estate changed hands several more times before its acquisition by the current owners, the Alvarez family, in 1982. The Vega Sicilia range now includes three cuvees namely the Unico flagship red followed by the Reserva Especial which is a blend of top vintages, both made up of Tinto Fino (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon and a small portion of Merlot, and then traditionally aged for 10 years before release. Nowadays the Unico wines are aged for only 5 to 6 years before bottling. Valbuena is made from younger vines and is only released after 5 years ageing.

Macan Clasico, Rioja 2014

Rich warming perfumed nose with lush opulent fruit notes of earthy black berries, black plums and parma violets, with a tantalising sprinkling of mocha and vanilla pod spice. Texturally very silky and suave with fine density and flesh yet finely focused and balanced, finishing with smokey, rich, bruleed blueberry length. Seriously impressive and utterly delicious.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Pintia Reserva, Toro 2014

Lovely bold dark broody nose laden with black plum, black cherry, smokey cedary graphite and crushed gravel mineral complexity. The palate is plump, full bodied and muscular, showing finely honed tannins, soft elegant integrated acids and a dark forest berry, brambly finish. A fine distinguished Pintia that gets more and more noble with each and every new vintage release.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bodegas Alion 2014, Ribera del Duero

Dark, taught broody aromatics that are shy at this early phase. Takes a little coaxing out the glass but all the classic Alion notes are there… black berry confit, black damson plums, tar, graphite and liquorice, saline cassis, bruleed coffee beans and caramelised oak nuances. The palate weight portrays great depth and power, plenty of muscle and intense salty caramelised black berry depth. Rich and creamy in texture, there is some tenderness to the under belly but it finishes with picante notes of cedary oak and spicy mulberry coulis. Another serious effort that will reward 10+ years of ageing.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Valbuena 5 2013, Ribera del Duero

The 2013s were generally lighter and fresher and this wine speaks confidently but softly with the aromatics showing real Rioja’ish earthy, savoury tinged red fruit notes. Quite foresty and brambly, there is plenty of bruleed raisined strawberry fruit, lactic milk chocolate and sweet saddle leather complexity. The palate is elegant and fine boned, built around a solid frame of crisp acidity and taught, linear earthy savoury fruit texture. This was always going to be a slightly earlier drinking vintage, which is not a bad thing with so many big vintages released from Vega Sicilia in the past decade. Impressively complex from the outset, this is ready to drink now and over the next 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Unico Reserva 2006, Ribera del Duero

With some back tracking to an older vintage release, this wine displays plenty of power, fragrance and depth, with a most seductive nose of sweet briary, savoury cured meats, strawberry confit, tannery leather, molasses tinged black fruits and a creamy lactic high toned lift. The palate texture is crisp, direct and slightly linear still, displaying fine fresh acids, plenty of sleek, taught savoury earthy black fruits, balsamic richness and a fairly powerful, imposing structure. At almost 12 years old, this release is still very youthful and more about minerality, savoury tannins and tension than sweet accessible fleshy fruit notes. A very serious Unico that you should be in no rush to drink.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Vega Sicilia Unico Reseva Especial NV (2018), Ribera del Duero

A blend of 05/06/07, this Reserva Especial possesses power, ripeness and freshness. Immediately vibrant and vital on the nose, the glass is brimming with notes of earthy cassis, bramble berries, black cherry, stewed strawberries, and hints of charcoal, wood smoke and graphite. So compact and dense. The palate is full, opulent, dense and fleshy, conveying weight without being heavy, freshness without being tart, and concentration and length without losing its purity. Wonderfully sleek and polished, this is one of the most exciting Reserva Especial blends for a number of years. Drink now or cellar for 25+ years. A real block buster.

(Wine Safari Score: 98+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Valbuena Vertical 2007-2009

Valbuena 5 2007, Ribera del Duero

Beautifully complex aromatics with dried herbs, briary, black cherry, sweet sappy wood spice and graphite minerality. Palate fruit has subtle molasses tinges with notes of winter stewed fruits, raisined strawberries and creamy, earthy bramble berry concentration, polished ripe tannins, creamy fleshy elegance and a long gravelly mineral finish. You can drink this now but will improve with a further 5+ years ageing.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Valbuena 5 2008, Ribera del Duero

The 2008 exhibits a tantalising nose of a spicy exotic red fruits, cassis leaf, red cherry, sappy spice, polished mahogany and picante cedary wood smoke notes. The black berry fruits have an opulent, ripe, caramelised edge with plenty of flesh, concentration and a saline acidity on the finish. Lovely balance, superb drinkability already but plenty of life still to live.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Valbuena 5 2009, Ribera del Duero

Youthful and taught, the aromatics speak more of wood spice, pithy red cherry skins, strawberry confit and earthy stewed plums. The palate is lactic and forward with plenty of creamy depth and fleshy baby fat. Still coming together, this is perhaps not quite yet ready to pull out the cellar. A lot of tannin power and density and still playing it’s cards close to its chest. Snuffle this one away in the cellar depths for another 5 to 8 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Exciting New Release Tasting of Spain’s First Growth ~ Bodegas Vega Sicilia…

December 13, 2016 ~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

December is prime festive season. So what better time to taste the new vintage releases from Spain’s very own first growth and most prestigious winery, Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero. This icon estate covers around 1000 hectares, of which 250 are under vine. It was founded in 1864 by Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who arrived from Bordeaux with cuttings of local grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec) and planted them, together with Spain’s signature grape Tinto Fino, a clone of Tempranillo.

The winery started to acquire its formidable reputation after 1903 under the ownership of Antonio Herrero. The estate changed hands several times before the acquisition by its current owners, the Alvarez family, in 1982.

The Vega Sicilia range is made up of several cuvees including the Unico vintage, being the flagship, followed by the non-vintage Reserva Especial red, a blend of top vintages, made up of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo 80%), Cabernet Sauvignon and little splash of Merlot, with normally 10 years traditional ageing, though this has recently started to decrease to 5 or 6 years under new wine maker, Javier Ausas.

Valbuena is normally made from younger vines, and in years when Unico is not produced, grapes normally destined for Unico will go into Valbuena. It is only released after 5 years ageing making it a classic Tinto Riserva.

The nearby sister single-estate of Bodegas Alion also produces a fashionably high quality red wine for either drinking on release or for ageing up to 10+ years. Last but not least, is probably one of the top wines in Toro, if not THE top wine in the Toro DO, the Bodegas Pintia.

The New Releases: Bodegas Pintia 2012, Toro, is a bright, dense ruby red. Beautifully perfumed nose of raspberry confit, caramelised cherries, red plum and a hint of mocha spice and black current opulence. Entry is creamy, plush, and textural with powdery tannins, and pithy stoney gravel notes. Plenty of graphite, bramble berry fruits and an earthy caramel and oak spice lick. (93/100)

Bodegas Alion 2013 Ribera del Duero, shows a sweet perfumed lifted nose of cherry blossom, violets, and polished mahogany. Exotic and alluring with subtle savoury oak, vanilla spice and black berry molasses and balsamic nuances. Texturally very elegant and light on its feet. Fine, silky and sleek on the palate. Nicely framed by crunchy acids, finishing with such tight fruit precision. Very attractive effort that leans to a more feminine finesse Alion style. (94+/100)

Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5 2012 Ribera del Duero has a rich, dark, broody nose with attractive caramelised black plums, molasses, kirsch liquor, and Christmas pudding. The palate is seductively rich, luxurious and elegant with layers of cherry liquor, cassis, and berry confit. Seamless, ultra polished tannins lead to a long, fine, fleshy well proportioned finish. Really lovely. (96/100)

Vega Sicilia Unico 2005 Ribera del Duero is opulent, rich, dense and dark fruited. Plenty of depth and fine caramelised plums, black berry, savoury earthy black current, with molasses hints, oak spice and condensed milk nuances. Palate is cool, elegant, light footed, vibrant yet eminently fresh. Definitely softer, finer, style than you’d expect from a young Unico. Impressively earthy, elegant, super complex and sophisticated, even regal. One to age in your cellar. (97/100)

Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial NV is a multi-vintage blend of 2003, 2004 and 2006. This is a more familiar, traditional, masculine Unico style despite its extra mellowing aged vintages. Shows lovely definition, polished sleek elegant tannins, pronounced concentration, power and more mineral grip and savoury depth. Crushed gravel, caramelised cherries, molasses and stewed winter fruits lead to a long, complex finish. (96/100)