I remember back during the 2008 Lehman Bros. banking crash period, how wine merchants the country over reported seeing a massive and sudden consumer movement back to the French classics. Apparently this trend manifested itself at all levels, from supermarkets up to fine wine merchants.
As a buyer for a niche high-end merchant in London, I can confirm after a brief look over sales figures by region for these years, that this certainly was the case for us. In the mainstream, stats were undoubtedly influenced by the parallel factor of a strengthening Aussie and Kiwi dollar against the pound, which raised prices by 20%-30%+ over a very short period of time. As key volume component players in the UK market, a drop in sales was perhaps inevitable for these countries. But was there more to it than economics at work?
Pollsters reported that consumer behaviour flocked back to the security and safety of the classics that espouse a sense of quality, prestige, and a subconscious feel-good factor.
Well, my Sunday lunch today definitely stuck to the classics, with a sensational bottle of Comte Lafond Sancerre 2014 (94/100) kicking off proceedings, followed by an opulent, but very attractive Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 2011 Pomerol from Michel Roland to match the roast chicken. Both hit the spot perfectly.
I think perhaps South Africa has had more recent success in cracking the food and wine pairing category although Californian classics are very compatible too. It is perhaps the riper sunshine styles from Australia, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina that have fallen behind the fine dining food & wine matching curve? My figures are anecdotal, but with many South African producers making fresher styles of wine, with reds exhibiting crisper, crunchier acids and sappy, spicy minerality at lower alcohol levels, these wines will undoubtedly appeal to European sommeliers and consumers alike.
Tasting Note: The Le Bon Pasteur 2011 Pomerol, an 80% blend of Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, was rich and opulent with complex multiple layers of sweet black cherry, cassis, salty Victoria plum with a hint of liquorice on the finish. What makes this wine so appealing is its intense concentration and vibrant fresh acids that make it perfect with food. At 14 abv, it’s not a “cool” style Bordeaux, but it is certainly perfectly balanced with the most lush fruit balanced with sweet tannins and seamlessly integrated oak. Certainly the best estate wine in the Roland Collection in my opinion. (Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
When it comes to food and wine matching, new world wines with their varying degrees of sweet fruit, lower acids and sunshine ripeness, will always struggle to compete with the fresh acids, austere restrained fruit intensity and dry minerality of an old world classic, whether from Bordeaux, Burgundy or the Rhone.
But this is an important factor that I believe weighs heavily on new world producers and is one that drives them vehemently to achieve better freshness, structure and restraint. No bad thing!