Bringing New Excitement to the White Burgundy Category ~ Tasting Domaine Heitz-Lochardet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroye…

This is a fantastic little 6 hectare domaine run by winemaker Armand Heitz. I first encountered his new releases at a Flint Wines importer tasting 3 years ago and was blown away by the maiden releases. 
Commencing with the 2013 vintage, Armand patiently waited for some of the family owned vineyards to come to the end of their contracted leases before taking over the growing and production again in the old winery in Chassagne Montrachet. 


Armand has clearly brought a new lease of life to these under-performing vineyards and is now producing some very exciting and accomplished white and red wines focusing on the appellations of Chassagne Montrachet, Meursault, Chevalier Montrachet and Pommard.


As can be seen with this beautiful Chassagne Montrachet, Armand is not interested in making big, rich, fat, oaky, over blown wines styles, rather preferring to focus on achieving tension, nerve, freshness with slightly reductive complexity. The 1er Cru Maltroye sees about 20% of new oak and displays a harmonious mix of wood spice and limey citrus fruit intensity. 


Heitz-Lochardet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroye 2013, 13 Abv.
This is another beauty from Chassagne Montrachet. Just the style I like – steely, taught, reserved, yet intense. Way too much white Burgundy out there is fat, fleshy and overblown at a very early stage when they should still be tightly wound like a coiled spring. There are tantalising aromatics of struck match, smokey lemons, gun flint, yellow grapefruit, and wet chalk. The palate is crystalline and bright, with upfront notes of salinity, tart lemons, yellow citrus, waxy green apples and intense, picante, pithy acids. This is a more linear, limey, mineral expression but still possesses ample mid palate weight and yellow citrus flesh. But it always remains taught, racy, linear and pithy, with the palate persistence growing incrementally as the wine opens up in the glass. Plenty of the 2013 Burgundy vintage typicity make this a classic example from one of my favourite newcomers in Burgundy. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)


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