One of my most interesting winery visits of 2018 was a trip in June to Campania producer Joaquin Wines located in Montefalcione, Avellino, Italy. Whilst there, I tasted through owner / winemaker Raffaele Pagano’s entire current release range of vinous wonders as well as some true back vintage unicorns.
However, one wine that slipped the net and wasn’t reviewed in my winery report was the incredible new release red I Viaggiatori 2016 made from pure Aglianico. In fact the wine was tasted over dinner at our amazing outing with Raffaele to Pepe i Grani, the number one rated pizza restaurant in the world. So it’s time to revisit this superb Aglianico red expression …
Joaquin Aziende Agricole I Viaggiatori Aglianico 2016, Campania IGT, 13.5 Abv.
The wine is dark and impenetrable with a slight black cherry rim. But this is not a wild, untamed Campania expression of Aglianico, to the contrary, it has the most pure, intriguingly perfumed aromatics of violets, black cherry, saline cassis, maritime oyster shell nuances, black currant and striking salty liquorice. Like the nose, the hallmarks of the palate are incredible purity, salinity and an expertly crafted structure with tart mouth watering electric acids, tart boiled black currant pastille fruits expertly balanced by seamless sweet tannins and a searing black berry concentration with a hint of cherry cola, smokey reduction and ashy complexity on the persistent finish. An incredible interpretation of old vine Aglianico from a top vintage with a harmony and finesse rarely seen with this variety. Drink now and over the next 10 to 15+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)