Brookdale is an impressive winery owned by Englishman Tim Rudd that is planted with 20+ year old Chenin Blanc vines as well as several other special Chenin Blanc blocks that are now almost 35 years old situated at the foot of the lofty Du Toitskloof Pass in Paarl.
The property was bought by the Rudd family which kick started a widespread replanting programme where sustainable viticulture and farming for the future generations are at the centre of their ethos. Most of the previous vineyards acquired with the original estate were very neglected and so uprooted with only the old vine Chenin Blanc blocks retained. The site is regularly exposed to strong winds that often reduce yields but also offer much-needed cooling breezes in Paarl’s warm inland climate. This site offers altitude and granitic soils rich in clay and schist that are perfectly suited for Chenin Blanc.
Taking Brookdale forward from the 2019 vintage is Kiara Scott, a young 28 year old winemaker who studied at Elsenberg before being selected to join the Cape Winemakers Guild Protege Programme. Kiara has worked vintages in the Rhône Valley, Sancerre and the Russian River in Sonoma, California. The future at Brookdale is looking super exciting with Kiara at the day to day winemaking helm and Duncan Savage, who produced the first two vintages, acting as a consultant.
Brookdale Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Paarl, 13.5% Abv.
The third vintage of the Brookdale Chenin Blanc sees Kiara Scott firmly in the winemaking driving seat with the majority of the vineyards employed starting the near the magical 35 year old mark making them eligible for Old Vine certification. With the use of large 500 litre oak barrels, the oak imprint on the wine is sensitive but complimentary, allowing lovely complex aromatics of white flowers, wet straw, white toast, tangerine peel and stem ginger to mingle effortlessly with notes of leesy biscuits and savoury vanilla pod spice. While the palate has a beautiful textural feel with mouth coating concentration, you can feel the pineapple pastille and smoky yellow orchard fruit notes are underpinned by the classical, stony mineral notes of the 2019 vintage. Showing an opulence and an attractive overt appeal already, this wines is once again a superb counterfoil to the overpriced, heady whites of Burgundy. Yes, I know its Chenin Blanc, but that is of course the wonder of this versatile premium white grape that reaches extra levels of intricacy when harvested from old vines and aged in oak. A delicious white wine that will drink well on release but should age and improve in the cellar comfortably for another 5 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)