Ridgeback’s original owner, Vernon Cole, the Zimbabwean tobacco executive, sold the winery in August 2022. Cathy Marshall was of course the first winemaker and in 2001, a maiden Shiraz was released. Since approximately 2006, the talented Toit Wessels has been in charge of winemaking at the property in Paarl.
Striving for ‘minimalistic wines’ following a terroir driven winemaking approach, the wines have grown in quality and stature over the past years. The estate’s property possesses plenty of Glenrosa soils with a prominent clay component as well as fractured decomposed granite.
I last visited the winery way back in 2002/3 so was very keen to update my outlook on this Paarl estate. Already quite renowned for their Viognier and Cabernet Franc, quality across the board looks to be very consistent indeed.
Ridgeback Wines Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Paarl, 13.5% Abv.
Only these dry land bush vine vineyards are not on the Ridgeback farm, with these old vine grapes (33+ years) sourced from a neighbouring farm. Night harvesting, light destemming and crushing, light pressing straight into barrel, with inoculation for fermentation with around 3 months bâtonnage before another 5 months ageing in French oak, circa 20% new. 10% unoaked tank portion back blended in just before bottling. The aromatics are rich and opulent with leesy notes of biscuits, honey, sweet yellow orchard fruits, buttered toast, quince and wet straw with a pinch of vanilla pod spice. On the palate there is a lovely vibrant intensity, a deliciously tangy acidity with plenty of sweet / sour intensity that melts into a mouth filling textural breadth and depth of yellow peach and candied orchard fruits. Impressively balanced with finer details of tart apple purée and a subtle sapidity. Good definition with a sleek glycerol mouthfeel, this will appeal to Chenin Blanc aficionados. Drinking well now but should develop over the next 3 to 6+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ridgeback Wines Viognier 2019, WO Paarl, 13.5% Abv.
Made from grapes grown on the Ridgeback farm from vines planted from 2004 onwards. Already receiving a lot of acclaim, this Viognier is perfectly suited to the warm, dry climate of Paarl and follows the same regime as the Chenin Blanc with 9 to 10 months in 18% new oak barrels with some 400 litre barrels and then a 12 to 13% unoaked portion blended back in before bottling to enhance the freshness. Not overtly perfumed and floral, this shows a delicate aromatic array of jasmine and peach blossom, buttered white toast, talc, peach stone fruits and waxy yellow apple peel. The palate is dense and compact with plenty of overt fruit richness supported by vibrantly tangy acids and a fine stony, liquid mineral vein on the finish. Lovely texture, a wonderful balance, ample fleshy weight but also real energy and freshness. Undoubtedly a real crowd pleaser with pedigree. Drink this now and over the next 3 to 5+. Superb.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
(The 2018 and 2019 vintages both received 5 stars and the 2021 was in the running for another 5 star award.)
Ridgeback Wines Merlot 2017, WO Paarl, 14% Abv.
All grapes were aged in 225 litre French oak barrels at circa 45% new with the remainder aged in second fill barrels. Picked very early in the morning, followed by light destemming, then followed by hand sorting leaving around a 50% whole berry component that goes into large stainless steel tanks for fermentation that is started naturally and then inoculated to take the ferment dry. Malo takes place in smaller stainless steel tanks before transferring to barrel for ageing. The aromatics are characteristically overt and opulent, rich and showy with notes of black plum, saline cassis, chocolate mocha, subtle hints of salty black berry reduction before melted black liquorice, oyster shell and vanilla pod spice. The palate has plenty of intensity, a creamy textural mouthfeel and vibrant black berry and black plum intensity before a long, effortlessly weightless lingering finish. The tannins are sleek and powdery and the acids juicy and lively, knitting the wine together nicely. It’s not easy to make outstanding pure Merlot wines outside of Bordeaux, but this is certainly an excellent example. Drink this now and over the next 10 to 12+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ridgeback Wines Cabernet Franc 2018, 14.5% Abv.
This is a bold, rich, lifted expression with plenty of black and blue berry fruits with notes of black plum, liquorice, black currant, green peppercorns, bell pepper and a subtle lead pencil cedar spice complexity. The palate is silky and soft but also fine boned, overtly generous with a fine textural balance and a majestically elegant tannin structure. There is salinity, a sapidity and a tart pithy black cherry spice all seamlessly assembled in a very attractive expression. Certainly bold and intensely fruited, this shows a riper, more opulent side of Cabernet Franc without any overt greenery. Deliciously smokey and mineral on the finish, this wine just shouts out for grilled or barbecued meats to accompany it. Drink now and comfortably over the next 6 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ridgeback Wines His Master’s Choice Reserve 5 2018, WO Paarl, 14.5% Abv.
A Rhone blend with 80% Shiraz, 10% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre aged in 70% new 225 litre French oak barrels for 18 months. The aromatics are classically wild and Northern Rhoney with overt notes of grilled herbs, cured meats, black olive tapenade, soya sauce and earthy red currant and savoury black berry notes. The palate shows impressive polish and precision, very fine grained tannins, a powdery, chalky minerality and more savoury, grilled herb and garrigue notes on the finish. Beautiful silky texture that points to the precision and fruit selection that went into making this wine. Drink this now or over the next 6 to 10+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Ridgeback Wines His Master’s Choice Reserve 10 2018, WO Paarl, 14% Abv.
A blend of 80% Cabernet Franc with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot aged for 19 months in 225 litre 80% French oak barrels. The large Cabernet Franc component is evident on the nose that boasts layers of sweet cedar spice, lead pencil, black currant, blueberry, salty black liquorice and a slightly reductive oysters shell note. There is impressive balance and elegance on the palate that clearly shows plenty of attention to detail, sleek layers of black berry fruits, hints of black chai tea, cherry tobacco and cola complexity. The tannins are regal, suave and powdery supported by beautifully integrated acids that lift the mid-palate and elevate this wine into the ranks of ambitious premium cuvées.
(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)