As the anticipation builds across global markets for the impending new release of the 2021 Vin de Constance, I was fortuitously seduced by a bottle of the current release 2020 in my cellar. Hot off the heels of scoring the iconic Mullineux Wines Olerasay 4º Straw Wine a hefty 99/100, I thought it wise to recalibrate my palate ahead of tasting the 2021 Vin de Constance. As clearly the top two sweet wine icons in South Africa, these two wines, on their own, have done more than any others to re-invigorate the sweet wine category globally, reminding fine wine collectors and connoisseurs that no cellar collection is complete without at least a few bottles of these liquid gold gems on the racks.

Whether your penchant is for Sauternes, Port or Madeira, or perhaps something more exotic and sweet from the Jurançon in France or Setubal in Portugal, these incredible wines, forged in style over centuries, have an important cultural standing in the broader fine wine industry. The obsession with anything sweet being banished from our diets negates the stark truth that these incredibly delicious wines are the perfect start or end to an evening of vinous indulgence, when enjoyed amongst company, with suitably paired food, and in moderation. 

But there are no names greater than the famed Vin de Constance. Revived by the Klein Constantia Estate in 1986, the latest 2020 vintage release also marks the 33rd released from the winery as the 2003 and 2010 vintages were not produced. The 2020 was another exceptional vintage with moderate weather patterns, low rainfall, and windy conditions contributing to a smaller, more concentrated harvest of berries. It was also the coolest since 2016 with 2,582 sunshine hours. 

Estate grown and sourced from a combination of both trellised and bush vines, with the oldest block being planted back in 1983, this 37 year old plot is joined by numerous others including the youngest at four years old, taken from cuttings of the original Muscat de Frontignan that was imported to the Cape in the 1650’s. Starting on the 6th of March, the Vin de Constance 2020 harvest was completed within 3 weeks resulting in a total of 19 separate passes through the vineyards.

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2020, WO Constantia, 13.5% Abv.

174g/l RS | 6.3g/l TA | 3.92pH

Made from 100% Muscat de Frontignan aged one and a half years in 50% new, 500 litre Hungarian and French oak barrels, followed by the same time in large-format wooden foudre, the barrels were then tasted and sorted with the best being chosen for the final blend. The 2020 continues very much in the same vein as Matt Day’s previous vintage creations, erring slightly more towards pale gold in colour, before the expressive, lifted fragrant aromatics assault the senses with wave after wave of complex perfume and yellow fruit nuances. More Sauternes like on the nose than many previous iterations, wafts of dried apricots, peach preserve, quince paste, and grape jelly rise out the glass, while all the while, one needs to remind oneself that this wine has no botrytis or noble rot on it whatsoever. With a short time in the glass to open its shoulders, the complexity of the wine is further reinforced with hints of melted honey on warm white toast, bitter orange peel marmalade, yellow raisins, candied ginger preserve, salted caramel, and toasted brioche on the long, indulgent, hedonistic palate. This 2020 is texturally seamless in the mouth with a honied peaches and cream elegance together with soft, tangy, incredibly well integrated acids helping to keep the richness and opulence in a perfectly refined balance. Drink now on release or comfortably over the next half century. 

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Wines of Klein Constantia are imported and distributed into the UK trade by Mentzendorff Wines. The Vin de Constance is also available directly from select negociants at the Place de Bordeaux. The approximate release price for the 2020 was circa £60 per bottle inc.