Summer of Greek Fine Wine: Part 4 – Tasting a Stunning Pair of 2022 Santorini Assyrtikos from Artemis Karamolegos Winery…

Although the Artemis Karamolegos winery was officially founded in the form we know it today in 2004, the Karamolegos family has a winemaking tradition that stretches back to 1952. Today it is one of the most dynamic wineries on this unique volcanic island as well as the most widely awarded winery on the island of Santorini, with their modern cellar producing a range of exceptional wines mainly from Assyrtiko, alongside other indigenous grape varieties from Santorini. They are the third largest winery on Santorini, working with a combination of their own vineyards and experienced growers across the island.

Artemis Karamolegos winery today own just over 3 hectares of vineyards, many over 100+ years old, from many of the best Santorini villages to grow Assyrtiko – Pyrgos, Megalorchori, Exo Gonia, Akrotiri and Fira. Long term leases on another 5 hectares allows them to manage and work with an amazing range of aspects, altitudes, and local varieties. Their talented winemaker crafts a small range of cuvées ranging from single vineyard wines though to multi-site blends using a combination of modern and ancient winemaking techniques.

The Pyritis Cuvee is one of Artemis Karamolegos’s top old vine Assyrtiko expressions.

Santorini’s unique terroir was forged by a huge volcanic eruption back in 1620 B.C. The volcanic soils create an environment that is uniquely hostile to Phylloxera, meaning that vines have remained on their original rootstocks. The dry, unforgiving terroir means roots of the vines often exceed 20 meters long as they penetrate deep into the subsoil in the search for water. The vines can only survive in this arid climate due to the capacity of the soil to retain what little moisture there is. This is one of the world’s oldest viticultural areas, with vine growing traced back over 34 centuries. 

Artemis Karamolegos Winery Assyrtiko Blend 2022, PDO Santorini, 14% Abv.

0.62g/l RS | 6.8g/l TA | 3.01pH

It is common on the island of Santorini to blend small amounts of other indigenous white varieties with the precious Assyrtiko grapes. This impressive 2022 vintage is a blend of 90% Assyrtiko fleshed out with a 10% portion of Athiri and Aidani, from vines of 80 years of age. This entry level white often punches well above its weight, and in the excellent 2022 vintage, Karamolegos have created a miniature masterpiece. Vinified in stainless steel tanks, each variety was vinified separately, with the final blend decided depending on each vintage’s aromatic profile. The wine was aged on its fine lees for a minimum of 12 months before bottling. 

The aromatics boast all the telltale stony basaltic mineral top notes together with notes of jasmine, white peach, green pear, yellow grapefruit and delicate dried herb nuances. The palate packs a punch of intensity, loaded with a tangy acidity, notes of white citrus, ripe tangerine, wet river pebbles and a cool, briney, maritime salinity on the finish. The concentration and intensity on the 2022 wines harks back to great vintages like 2017, when Santorini was still establishing itself on the international fine wine stage. This mostly Assyrtiko blend is beautifully vibrant, saline and pithy, with a mouthwatering acidity, and a delicately picante bitter lemon twist on the finish. A truly delightful wine and a wonderful introduction to broader range of fine wines from Artemis Karamolegos. Drink now and over the next 3 to 4+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Artemis Karamolegos Winery Cuvee 34 Assyrtiko 2022, PDO Santorini, 14% Abv.

0.86g/l RS | 7.18g/l TA | 2.92pH

The Cuvee 34 from Artemis Karamolegos is undoubtedly one of the best quality 100% Santorini Assyrtikos produced every vintage aside from a few super old vine boutique micro vinifications produced in small quantities. After the more difficult 2021 vintage conditions, the 2022 Cuvee 34 is yet another high-flying release made from over 100-year-old Assyrtiko old vines from five of the most distinguished villages on the island, including Pyrgos, Megalochori, Exo Gonia, Akrotiri, and Fira. A partial pre-fermentation maceration was carried out using only free run juice, after which 80% of the must was fermented in stainless steel tanks and 20% in old oak barrels, some concrete, and a portion of clay amphorae before being aged for a minimum of 12 months on its fine lees for added textural weight, mouthfeel and complexity.

The 2022 Cuvee 34, named as a homage to the re-inhabitation of Santorini 34 centuries ago after a devastating volcanic eruption, boasts rich, intense, expressive aromatics loaded with stone fruits, white citrus, lemon herbal tea, grated limes, and green apple with an alluring underlying thread of stony, basaltic minerality. The delicate maritime and oystershell notes continue from the nose to the palate, enlivened by a salty vivacious acidity, a dry herbal pithy spice, and a raspingly intense, white citrus-laden finish. Fabulous depth and breadth of fruit purity with a steely acid structure and a comfortingly harmonious, balanced persistence. Certainly, no doubting the quality and the pedigree of the old vine Assyrtiko fruit on display here. Simply delicious, this cuvee is ready to go now but will almost certainly age beneficially for between 8 and 10+ years. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The wines of Artemis Karamolegos are imported into the UK by specialist fine wine merchant Wood Winters and the 2022 vintages are now available to the trade. For enquiries and allocations, contact: Andrew Johnson at andrew@woodwinters.com

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