Summer of Greek Fine Wine: Part 5 – Tasting the Impressive Douloufakis Winery Femina Malvasia Di Candia Aromatica 2023…

The Douloufakis Winery is located in the village of Dafnes, a few kilometres south of the Cretan coastal city of Heraklion, in a rural village setting. The region has a long viticultural history and has been established as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for Cretan wines of the ancient grape variety Liatiko for many years. Family owned since the 1930s with third generation winemaker Nikos Douloufakis calling the shots in the vineyards and winery today, there is clearly a lot of passion invested into the accomplished range of wines.

Their privately owned vineyards are situated on hillside slopes at an altitude of 350 meters and the cultivation is mostly done by hand as well as by mechanical means. They cover 20 hectares and are located within the vineyard region of Dafnes. There are plantings of several grape varieties, including indigenous Vilana, Vidiano, Muscat White (of Spina), Malvasia, Mandilari, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Liatiko, Kotsifali, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah. Apart from the privately owned vineyards, grapes are also sourced from smaller farmers in the Dafnes area, with whom the Douloufakis Winery has a long partnership with. These vineyards cover 25 hectares and are under Nikos Douloufakis’ direct supervision ensuring consistency of quality fruit.

While the Douloufakis Winery was not on my original Cretan itinerary, several very strong recommendations from ex-Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate writer Mark Squires persuaded me to pop into their winery and taste a selection of wines, with the Femina a must-taste white expression. 

Douloufakis Winery Femina 2023, PGI Crete, 13.2% Abv. 

3.1g/l RS | 5.8g/l TA | 3.34pH

An enticing pale lemon bronze yellow, the aromatics are jam packed full of exotic fruits, ripe peaches, apricots, nectarines and lychees which intermingle with subtle notes of potpourri florality, pink musk, peach rock candy and delicate white chalk nuances. On the palate the wine is rich and textural, revealing a deliciously fleshy concentration of peaches, apricots and a medley of joyous fruit salad notes. The richness of fruit is accompanied by a vibrant acidity and layers of pithy phenolic spice that lingers long into the finish. An attractive dry, pithy, floral expression of Malvasia Di Candia Aromatica that will undoubtedly gain extra layers of complexity with further bottle ageing. Another top-class effort.

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

www.douloufakis.wine

PB E6 Dafnes Heraklion, Crete, Greece, PO 70003
+30 2810 792017; +30 2811 753113

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