In many of the top wine producing regions of the world, it’s a recurring curse to be the vintage that follows a truly exceptional year like 2021, which in Sassicaia’s case produced a highly lauded 100 point wine. Interestingly, Tenuta San Guido draw several parallels between the 2022 vintage and the 2017 vintage, which also followed a 100 point release. Tasting both the 2022 and 2017 alongside each other illustrated once again what a very special site the Bolgheri-Sassicaia DOC is and why it is designated as its own monopole appellation.
The autumn of 2023 was mostly warm and dry, but in November, temperatures dropped with rainfall that replenished the ground water reserves. Winter began with mild temperatures and intense fog, while February recorded very cold temperatures with lows of around -3°C, accompanied by rain and snow at higher altitudes. Spring started with rising temperatures and moderate rainfall, but in April, cold weather and rain returned, which fortunately did not cause any damage. In May, the seasonal average temperature stabilised, with frequent rains that favoured flowering and fruit setting.
The summer was characterised by above-average temperatures but the good water availability allowed the plants to grow regularly. The intense heat led to thoughts of an early harvest but the rain at the end of August restored the situation and allowed the grapes to reach proper maturity: excellent grape quality, with great consistency; good aromatic extraction and impressive anthocyanins.
After a passage in second and third-use French oak barriques (previously used for Guidalberto), the Le Difese wine is transferred to stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 3-4°C to achieve the proper tartaric stability before bottling.
Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2023, IGT Toscana, 13.5% Abv.
5.75 TA | 3.48pH
I still remember tasting the maiden 2002 Le Difese release and the 2023 is every bit as exciting, 21 years later. A blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2023, the aromatics show a delicately perfumed red and black berry melange with attractive notes of pressed violets, red cherries, raspberries and crushed mulberries that melt into more subtle hints of black currant and salty black liquorice. There is a thrilling energy and brightness to the palate that resonates with vibrant tart red cherry, sour plum and tangy, salty black berry notes before finishing cool and fresh with a fine grained stony phenolic grip. Lovely concentration and an impressive acid structure make this another seductive ‘must-buy’ wine from the Sassicaia stable. Drink on release and over 10 to 12+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The soils for Sassicaia’s vines are located within the unique monopole appellation production area of “Bolgheri Sassicaia D.O.C.” They exhibit diverse and complex morphological characteristics, with the presence of calcareous zones rich in galestro, as well as stones and pebbles (from which the wine takes its name), and partially clayey soils. The production sites are located at an average altitude between 100 and 400 metres above sea level, with a West/South-Westerly exposure.
The 2022 vintage was hot but the favourable microclimate of Bolgheri allowed for a good balance between acidity and freshness. Autumn initially recorded below-average temperatures, with abundant rainfall and a drop in temperature at the end of November, which favoured the vegetative halt of the plants and the natural elimination of pests. Rain continued in winter, ensuring a good water reserve. Spring began with above-average temperatures, interrupted by a sudden and brief temperature drop that led to a reduction of buds in the early vineyards. This reduced the load on the plants and allowed for correct pigmentation and maturation of the grapes.
Summer was characterised by intense heat, but thanks to the microclimate of Bolgheri and the hilltop location of the vineyards, no signs of vine stress were observed. Significant rainfall in mid-August led to a temperature drop, favouring the proper maturation of the grapes. The grape harvest, carried out by hand, began in the first days of September with the grapes from the younger vineyards and continued with the Cabernet Sauvignon from the vineyards at lower altitudes, finishing with those from the hillside vineyards at over 300 metres above sea level (Vigna di Castiglioncello). The harvest operations were completed at the end of September.
After a careful selection of the grapes, soft pressing is followed by controlled alcoholic fermentation, that was completed by the end of October. The macerations were moderate, lasting from 13 to 18 days, with optimal extraction of polyphenols and aromas. After the spontaneous malolactic fermentation, completed by the end of November, the wine underwent a maturation period in French oak barriques of about 23 months. It was then transferred to stainless steel tanks for the final selection of the batches before blending.
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2022, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, 13.5% Abv.
6.15 TA | 3.43pH
The 2022 vintage returned to warmer conditions in Bolgheri making the unique microclimate of the Sassicaia vineyards all the more influential. This 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc blend exhibits a deep, seductive, alluring aromatics packed full of musk, violets, tilled earth, black cherry and saline creme de cassis notes with an incredibly precise purity. The palate is tightly wound and taut with an expressive vein of stony minerality supporting chalky drying tannins. Powerful yet finely poised, the structure is enlivened by a cool crisp acidity and piercing notes of black currant, salty blueberry and subtle hints of graphite and cherry tobacco on the finish. Real intensity and drive backed by an energetic freshness and a notable wound spring tension make this a perfect Sassicaia for the cellar… if you can resist its unquestionable allure and charm. A noteworthy successor to the 100 point 2021 vintage. Drink from 2029 to 2050+.
(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The Tenuta San Guido wines are imported into the UK by Armit Wines.