The Old Vine Project A Decade On – Tasting a Selection of Heritage Certified New Release Wines: Part 1… 

In South Africa, the Old Vine Project (OVP) exists to protect the heritage of old vines and to ensure that old vineyards continue to thrive. Old vines are living history. Wines made from them embody decades of care, skill, and dedication. In South Africa, the OVP affords producers the opportunity to certify their old vine vineyards and wines. That it can do so is largely thanks to the South African Wine Industry Information Systems (SAWIS) database, and its records dating back to 1900. This database enables the OVP to verify planting dates and gives South Africa a unique global advantage – traceability and credibility. Members of the OVP may apply for the Certified Heritage Vineyards seal that clearly states the planting date for wine made from vineyards of 35 years or older.

The OVP journey began in 2002 when ex-lawyer and vineyard manager Rosa Kruger started documenting old vines. In 2016, the Old Vine Project was formalised as an Non Profit Company. Since then, awareness and momentum have grown steadily. Today, with more than 5,000 hectares of old vines and over 350 Certified Heritage Vineyards wine bottled each year, the OVP has become a leader in both preservation and innovation. The OVP is committed not only to preserving existing old vines, but also to advancing research on old vines, developing the skills of those who care for them, and fostering climate-resilient practices; ensuring that today’s young vines have the opportunity to mature into the heritage vineyards of the future.

ACHIEVEMENTS

Achievements to date include:

  • Old vineyard hectarage in South Africa has increased from 2,952 ha in 2016 to 5,159 ha in 2024 — a 75% increase in eight years.
  • OVP membership has grown from 8 members in 2017 to over 130 members in 2025, with more than 350 Certified Heritage Vineyard wines per vintage.
  • The Certified Heritage Vineyards seal provides consumers and trade with proof of authenticity, quality, and traceability, increasingly required in international markets.
  • Launch of the Certified Heritage Vineyards Grape Trading Platform, connecting old vine growers with winemakers.
  • Development of the Old Vine Pruning Course with FELCO Africa, training pruners in specialised vineyard care.
  • Establishment of the Old Vine Academy, an online learning platform for the wine industry, trade, and media.
  • Partnership with Vititec since 2008 to develop clean plant material from old vines, resulting in ‘Heritage Selections’.
  • Collaboration with InterLoire confirming that some South African Chenin Blanc selections are extinct in France, and are now safeguarded in clonal gardens in France.
  • Research breakthroughs with various local and international research projects.
  • Recognition in international works such as The World Atlas of Wine.
  • Dedicated old vine wine sections in leading retailers and restaurants locally and internationally.
  • Recognition at leading wine competitions and wine guides.
  • At its 22nd General Assembly, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) adopted Resolution OIV-VITI 703-2024, formally recognising the work of initiatives such as the Old Vine Conference, Old Vine Project, Old Vine Registry, and Censimento Vecchie Vigne. The resolution defines an old grapevine as a documented vine at least 35 years old (with grafts undisturbed for the same period), and an old vineyard as a legally defined block where at least 85% of vines meet this definition.

Donkiesbaai Steen 2025, WO Piekenierskloof, 13.37% Abv.

Donkiesbaai is a brand that was started by Jean Engelbrecht, owner of Stellenbosch estate Rust en Vrede, with the name based on a familiar family holiday spot up the Cape West Coast. Made from Chenin Blanc (or Steen in Afrikaans) fruit from the Piekenierskloof from old vines planted in 1986 and 1988, 70% of the wine was barrel fermented and matured in 500 litre French oak barrels and 30% naturally fermented in concrete eggs on its fine lees with monthly batonnage to enhance the richness and texture of the wine. 

On the nose, there is a complex melange of fragrant white lemon blossoms, Granitic stony minerality over white citrus fruits and crunchy pear with a delicate sprinkling of dried herbs and fynbos. Youthful and energetic, this wine really shows the power, clarity, and intensity of the superb 2025 vintage, with layers of crunchy pineapple, green apple, white peach, and lemon crumble nuances. There is so much energy with a juicy tangy acidity that makes this wine a true mouth-watering treat. Still very fruit forward and primary, I suspect with a little more time in bottle, this impressive Chenin Blanc will slowly reveal its true Weskus salinity and underlying maritime influence, offering evolving drinking pleasure from release and over the next 10 to 15+ years. A true testament to the quality potential and pedigree of Old Vine Chenin Blanc. 

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Roodekrantz Donkermaan Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 12.6% Abv.

Roodekrantz Wines focuses primarily on the production of single-vineyard, site-specific wines from certified old vineyards. Their vision is to understand and nurture the vineyards they work with, doing everything possible to preserve their longevity and keep them rooted in the soil. Simply put, their winemaking philosophy is to capture the essence of the vineyard in the bottle with minimal intervention. Working exclusively with old barrels, their Chenin Blancs often undergo spontaneous malolactic fermentation, adding further complexity and texture to the wines. The Donkermaan vineyard’s vines planted in 1984 are 42 years old and sit at an altitude of 250 meters above sea level. Located in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg area, the old bush vines are dry land farmed in soils of deep red clay, a mix of Sandstone and Granite with a high iron content formed through the weathering of the surrounding mountains.

The aromatics on this young Chenin Blanc show more lifted pear drop-style esters alongside exotic notes of honey drizzled peaches, lychees, guava and green apples. Lurking beneath the rock candy nuances are dusty, Granitic mineral hints, touches of wet straw and white peaches. The palate is intense and fresh yet moderately phenolic with the 2024 telltale effortless crystalline intensity that so many white wines possess. Super lithe and sleek textured, medium bodied and beautifully supple and fine, this is another very classy Chenin Blanc that thrives more on its ethereal qualities than mere brute force power. Earlier drinking than either the 2021s or 2023s, this delicious example is good to savour now and over the next 8 to 10 years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Kaapzicht Kliprug Chenin Blanc 2024, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

The Kliprug vineyard was planted in 1982 on a stony ridge of decomposed granite in the Bottelary Hills, where tough, dryland conditions shape the character of the wine. These old bush vines, farmed sustainably and without irrigation, produce small, flavour-packed berries that yield naturally low crops of exceptional concentration. The soils are shallow and rocky, forcing the roots deep in search of moisture, while cooling afternoon breezes from False Bay preserve the grapes’ freshness and balance.

The aromatics on this Old Vine Chenin Blanc show lovely intensity and focus and are truly evocative of the sun-baked Cape winelands – complex and layered with pithy yellow citrus, green apples, honey and white peach fruits over an earthy, wet Granite minerality that mingles with herby fynbos nuances. In the mouth, this youthful white is vibrant and zippy with a well-defined acidity, a crystalline apricot fruit purity and an elegant, effortless intensity. The wine’s light, airy, weightless characters on the palate are juxtaposed with its flavour intensity from the Old Vine fruit. This is a wonderful introduction to archetypal Stellenbosch Old Vine Chenin Blanc. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 92+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Danie Steytler Jnr. in the Kaapzicht vineyards.

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